A Family Reunion Christmas Trip to Spain – Ancient Segovia

After work on December 15, my husband and I flew from Shanghai to Madrid, while our daughter flew from Bristol, UK to Madrid. After three months apart, the three of us finally had a reunion. Why Spain? A country that led the world during the Age of Exploration must be full of treasures. A land ruled by different peoples must have created a more diverse culture. Cities home to masters like Gaudí, Picasso, and Goya surely offer breathtaking scenery. Plus, winter in Spain is relatively warm in Europe.

Spain, untouched by the fires of World War II, has preserved a wealth of medieval monuments. Many cities have old quarters with narrow streets, and urban development revolves around these ancient buildings and tourism. The history of these cities is as dry and dramatic as the winter there. Although Spain is not large in area or population, it has become one of the world's top tourist destinations. How to choose representative and distinctive travel destinations? Typical itineraries include several classic cities in both Spain and Portugal, but we spent 15 days on an in-depth Spain trip. I highly recommend Córdoba and Granada.

On December 15, our daughter flew directly from Bristol to Madrid and stayed one night in the city center. We flew from Shanghai with a transfer in Beijing and entered Spain from Madrid on the morning of December 16.

December 16: We met at Moncloa metro station in Madrid, took a bus to Segovia, stayed overnight in Segovia, and booked a famous restaurant in advance for suckling pig.

December 17: In the afternoon, we took a bus from Segovia back to Madrid, visited Retiro Park, and had our first paella in an old street.

December 18: From Plaza Elíptica station in Madrid, we took a bus for a day trip to Toledo. After returning to Madrid, we visited the Prado Museum and had seafood and lamb dinner at a restaurant in an old street.

December 19: Outlet shopping, returned to Madrid, had Hunan cuisine (Xiang Yu) for dinner.

December 20: Royal Palace of Madrid, market, temple, and Italian restaurant in the evening.

December 21: Train to Córdoba, Roman bridge. Bought groceries and cooked ourselves, watched sliced Spanish ham.

December 22: Great Mosque, Calleja de las Flores (Flower Street), Plaza del Potro. Bought groceries and cooked ourselves.

December 23: Train to Granada. Difficult communication with the landlord. In the afternoon, visited Granada Cathedral (with Chinese audio guide), Albaicín neighborhood, and Mirador San Nicolás. Bought groceries at Carrefour and cooked ourselves.

December 24: Walked to the Alhambra, shopped at Carrefour, bought Spanish ham at an old shop, celebrated Christmas.

December 25: Took a coach from Granada to Seville, then a taxi to the apartment. Visited Metropol Parasol and Museo del Baile Flamenco (Flamenco Dance Museum). Cooked dinner with ingredients we brought.

December 26: Royal Alcázar of Seville, Seville Cathedral, in the evening went to Plaza de España, had pizza in a basement.

December 27: Old town of Seville and department stores. Spent time in a café. Flew to Barcelona on a budget airline. Had Thai food for dinner.

December 28: Sagrada Familia, Casa Milà, Casa Batlló. Had Japanese food for dinner.

December 29: Tried to visit Park Güell but failed, seaside, Christopher Columbus monument, Gothic Quarter, shopping, first time eating outdoors.

December 30: Taxi to airport, tax refund.

December 16

I carefully chose this Air China flight because it arrives in Spain early in the morning; most other flights arrive in the afternoon or evening, wasting a day. After landing at Madrid-Barajas Airport early in the morning, customs was quick because of the early hour. From T1, we took metro Line 8 to Nuevos Ministerios, then transferred to Line 6 to Moncloa. While waiting for the metro, I nervously watched for pickpockets. My husband said pickpockets don't get up that early – if they could wake up early, they wouldn't be thieves. At Moncloa, we followed the signs to buy bus tickets directly to Segovia.

Bus company: Avanza autobus. Tickets can be bought on the spot, €4.60 per person. Buses run about every half hour (direct). While waiting for our daughter, we had breakfast at a nearby shop; the hot chocolate was so thick it could be diluted with two more cups of water. Stepping out of Moncloa for some air, we saw a sky full of morning glow – no filter needed, nature's palette is unparalleled. The air was crisp and cold.

After about an hour and a half, we arrived at Segovia's coach station. There were pay toilets inside. Although the distance from the station to the hotel was short, dragging our luggage up and down the cobblestone streets on a continuous uphill was quite challenging.

From my research, I learned there's another way to get to Segovia by train: take Renfe train from T4 (B1) to Madrid-Chamartín, then transfer to a train to Segovia. Segovia's train station is 1.5 km from the city center; from there, take bus line 11 (which ends at the Aqueduct, frequency matching train times, about 20 minutes, €2, cash only). Most attractions in Segovia are walkable. Alternatively, taxi – €8 per car (ordinary 4-seater, regardless of number of passengers). Comparatively, the bus is more economical and convenient.

As one of Spain's oldest cities, Segovia has witnessed much of Iberian history. From the Romans who founded it, to three centuries of Celtic rule, to Arab rule before King Alfonso VI of Castile regained control. For the next 500 years, several Castilian kings made it their capital. Most of the old town's buildings date from that period. Later, during the Renaissance, the Moors introduced textile and clothing industries, bringing renewed prosperity.

The heart of Segovia is the magnificent Plaza Mayor, surrounded by the city's most important buildings. Our hotel, Infanta Isabel by Recordis Hotels, was on this square, opposite Segovia Cathedral at the highest point of the old town. The hotel was surrounded by charming shops with windows full of goods. We were attracted by ham sandwiches packed with generous fillings – crispy bread stuffed with Spanish ham, delicious, €5.50 each.

The Alcázar of Segovia sits at the western end of the city on a rocky outcrop, surrounded by cliffs on three sides, connected only by a drawbridge. The blue sky and sunshine were always captivating. We walked, ate, and relaxed, switching to holiday mode.

Alcázar tickets: €7, no student discount for foreigners. From the 12th century, Catholic monarchs gradually turned it into a fortress-palace; by the 16th century it became the current form: ornate towers to distinguish it from other castles, Mudéjar-style interiors. The fairy-tale castle looks great in photos.

One of the largest ancient Roman ruins in Spain is in Segovia. The great aqueduct, built in Roman times, gives a glimpse of a city spanning millennia with a legacy of civilization. Even as a remnant, this massive aqueduct is the most majestic and best-preserved Roman ruin on the Iberian Peninsula. At the top is the water channel. The aqueduct is 728 meters long, supported by 166 arches, built with nearly 20,000 stones, without any cement or other binder.

As the sun set, this thousand-year-old city, which rose and fell with changing times and rulers, known as Spain's most spectacular World Heritage city, quietly watched the twilight and the castle's stone.

Night fell; the mountain mist was heavy. The Segovia Cathedral on the square was outlined by lights, looking ethereal. Roast suckling pig is a must-try dish in Segovia. We had booked José María restaurant in advance on its official website. Named after the owner himself, it's not like Candido's, which caters mainly to tourists; mostly locals dine here. They also serve suckling pig – crispy skin and tender meat, unforgettable. No plate-smashing performance for tourists. The restaurant has an English menu. Suckling pig in Spanish is 'cochinillo' or 'milk-fed suckling pig'. The long-awaited reunion dinner felt wonderful!

December 17

Our room had a small balcony overlooking the old street. Though narrow, it offered a different angle and height to appreciate the scenery. The sky was clear outside the window, lifting our spirits.

In the morning, we strolled through the old town. Following the winding cobblestone streets, we stopped at Plaza San Martín, built in the 12th century. The buildings in the old town seemed to travel through time, quietly waiting for a new day.

I recommend staying one night in Segovia. I've seen many day trips from Madrid online. Today we returned to Madrid. On the way to the bus station, we noticed many police officers, apparently for a major event. When we were at a loss, an elderly gentleman who spoke fluent English actively came over to show us a detour to the Segovia bus station. He was one of only two Spaniards we met with standard English. At the coach station, there were Avanza ticket machines accepting only credit cards (which require a 4-digit PIN). We bought tickets at the manned counter. If you can estimate your time, it's better to buy round-trip tickets in advance so you don't have to wait at the station after purchasing.

We stayed at Hostal Palacio Luna in Madrid for four nights. After getting out of the bus station, we took the metro to Gran Vía station, just a 5-minute walk to the hostel. The hostel is in an apartment building; though the elevator is extremely small, it did help with our heavy suitcases. The hostel is run by a Chinese brother and sister. The triple room layout was good, but once we opened three big suitcases, we couldn't walk around. The hostel is in the city center with a supermarket and restaurants downstairs, very convenient.

Travel tip for Madrid: The most cost-effective ticket is the T10 (10-trip) card. It's valid for both metro and buses, costs €12.20. One card can be used by multiple people – two people can share one. You can also use T10 from the airport to the city center, but you need to pay an extra €3. Also, the T10 is only valid in Zone A, which covers almost all interesting areas.

Madrid's metro system is extensive and goes directly to attractions, very convenient. But the city center is relatively small; distances between main attractions are short and walkable. So when traveling in Madrid, it's more efficient to use Google Maps for walking directions rather than trying to find a metro station. Plus you can enjoy the city's architecture along the way – a mini City Walk, killing two birds with one stone.

Retiro Park, built in the 17th century, was once a royal garden but is now free and open to the public. The park is green with trees and rippling water. The main road features various performers interacting harmoniously. It's a great place to relax and get close to nature. In front of the monument to King Alfonso XII is a large lake with ducks and reflections. The famous Crystal Palace is located in Retiro Park.

Since it's winter, it gets dark early. Our daughter found a nice Spanish restaurant in the old town nearby. Many restaurants and cafés are hidden in the labyrinth of small streets. In Spain, restaurants open at 2 PM for lunch and 8 PM for dinner; we never quite adapted to the meal times during our stay. When we finally went in and sat down, we watched the staff prepare unhurriedly. When we tried to order, the first thing the waiter said was 'No, no, no, no English~' Accompanied by awkward but polite laughter, we ordered using photo translation, and luckily everything was delicious! Ordering without the language was a bit painful, and the only server with decent English became our savior.

Christmas was a week away; everywhere was decorated with Christmas elements. We suddenly saw a long queue in front of a shop and curiously went over to find people buying lottery tickets. This peculiar scene could be seen everywhere during our half-month in Spain: on weekends and holidays, all shops closed, but the lottery shop had a line.