A Family Reunion Trip to Spain During the 2023 Christmas Season – Classical Toledo and Conventional Madrid

December 18

Today is a day trip to Toledo. As the former capital of Spain, the historical importance of Toledo is self-evident. There are two transportation options from Madrid to Toledo.

One is to take an AVE train from Madrid's ATOCHA station directly to Toledo train station. The earliest train departs at 6:50 am and the latest at 9:50 pm, with departures almost every hour. The journey takes 33 minutes and a one-way ticket costs €13.9. The second option is to take the Alsa bus from the bus waiting hall on the second floor of Madrid's Plaza Elíptica metro station. The earliest bus departs at 6:00 am and the latest at 11:00 pm. The journey takes 1–1.5 hours. For three people, the one-way fare was €25.48 and the return fare €18. There are 3 bus departures per hour. Tickets can be purchased directly from the vending machine at the waiting area, which is much cheaper than the train. Both options are simple and fast. If you don't want to sit for too long, the AVE train is recommended; if you are not in a hurry, the bus allows you to enjoy the scenery along the way.

Exiting the coach station, we could see Toledo's old town high up a few hundred meters ahead. When we went up, we walked through the main gate, Puerta de Bisagra, built in the mid-16th century, climbing to the top. From here we could experience this medieval city away from the tourists. The slope was steep, the temperature low, but our underwear was still somewhat damp from sweat. We treated it as morning exercise. Another, easier option is to take the kilometer-long escalator from the tourist center. On our way back, we came down via the escalator, which was much more convenient.

The Cathedral of Toledo, one of the world's largest Catholic cathedrals, is a masterpiece of Gothic art and the best historical witness. It was the first cathedral of the Spanish Catholic Church's archdiocese and is the second largest cathedral in Spain. The rooftop skylight was the most eye-catching part of the entire church—words cannot describe the awe it inspired in us! Following the guidance of gods and angels, looking up at the magnificent dome, it felt like a staircase ascending to heaven.

The historic Franciscan monastery, the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, is a historic Catholic Franciscan monastery in Toledo. The double cloisters of the monastery are very exquisite: the first floor is in the late Gothic style, while the second floor is balanced with Mudejar decoration (a blend of Arabic and Romanesque styles). The Islamic carvings on the cloisters are extraordinarily beautiful and well worth appreciating carefully. The exquisite stone carvings inside the church and the quiet courtyard also give the monastery a unique serene atmosphere.

The monastery is quite far from the main square, so allow enough time to visit. From there we ventured deeper into the old town where there were fewer tourists. Modern buildings are rare in Toledo's old town, which still retains its 16th-century appearance. The cobblestone streets are polished bright, as if worn by time. Strolling through the ancient streets of this delicate small city is an enjoyment in itself. Looking at the buildings that seem frozen in time, try to slow your pace and let your life slow down as well.

The only fast food during this trip was at McDonald's in Toledo. I marveled at how big the burgers were here! Remember there is a restroom here.

Tips for independent travel: Public restrooms in Spain are scarce, making toilet access a concern during trips. Restrooms at long-distance bus stations usually charge a fee. It is recommended to use restrooms after visiting paid attractions or after dining at restaurants.

After returning from Toledo to Madrid, we headed straight to the Prado Museum. The museum is open Monday to Saturday until 8 pm, and Sunday until 7 pm. The Prado Museum is one of the world's top ten art galleries, housing masterpieces by Velázquez, Goya, Titian, Rubens, Raphael and other great painters. It is the most authoritative and comprehensive gallery of Spanish paintings. For those interested in art treasures, you should reserve at least a full day for the Prado. No matter which wing you are in, you will find it hard to leave: being surrounded by so many art treasures is a great visual feast and spiritual shock! We spent about three and a half hours inside. My husband, exhausted from the day's walking in Toledo, ended up lounging in the museum for a long time. Tickets were €15 per person; our daughter got in free with her UK student ID.

December 19

We originally planned to visit the Royal Palace today. But the night before, we found that tickets were already sold out online. So we booked tickets for the 20th and decided to go shopping at Las Rozas Village near Madrid today.

This outlet is only a 30-minute drive from downtown Madrid. Take metro line 3 to the terminal station Moncloa, then transfer to bus 625 to Las Rozas. Buy tickets after boarding, €2.6 per person. Besides route 625, you can also take routes 628 and 629. Buses 625, 628 and 629 all stop at the bus stop opposite Las Rozas Village. I had earlier compared the Barcelona outlet village; it takes two to three hours one way from Barcelona city center, so I decided to do my shopping in Madrid.

Spain is not as expensive as other European countries; it is almost the cheapest country in Europe. Moreover, it has the highest tax refund rate in Europe. Low prices + high tax refund = great deals for shopping.

We first returned to the hotel to drop off our bags, then found a Hunan restaurant called Xiang Yu near the hotel. We were delighted to see that we could order by scanning a QR code—surely it's a Chinese-run restaurant. However, after ordering we waited a long time for our food. Finally a waiter came over and asked what we had ordered, and we realized that the code we scanned was for takeout orders. They then repackaged the takeout food and served it to us. Indeed, you need to ask if you don't know, and not assume you know.

December 20

The good weather that had lasted for several days was gone. Although the sun was still shining, the temperature was low and the wind strong. Today our destination was a few sights in Madrid city.

Madrid has numerous plazas, the most famous being Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor. Since it was the Christmas season, both day and night the streets were packed with people, and Christmas decorations stretched endlessly. My husband said he hadn't seen so many people shopping in a long time. The most bustling was Puerta del Sol, located at the zero kilometer starting point of Spanish highways. The famous statue of the bear and the strawberry tree on the square is the city emblem of Madrid and one of its symbols. On the way to the Royal Palace, we passed by Plaza de España. The square features the Monument to Cervantes and statues of Don Quixote. Don Quixote rides his skinny horse, with his servant Sancho Panza on a donkey following closely behind.

The Royal Palace of Madrid is the third largest palace in Europe, after Versailles and the Hofburg in Vienna. As we approached the main entrance, we saw many people waiting. After just a few minutes, the changing of the guard ceremony began at noon. Soldiers holding rifles, wearing tall boots, riding horses… exotic display filled with pride. The horses participating in the ceremony stepped in unison as if they could hear the rhythm of the military band; almost every hoofbeat landed on the beat of the drums.

The palace is square-shaped, with a square called the Plaza de la Armería in front of the main entrance, imposing in scale. Inside, the palace houses countless treasures: gold and silverware, musical instruments, tapestries, paintings, sculptures, and royal artifacts. The Porcelain Room, the Hall of Kings, the Dining Room, etc., were all built according to the preferences of successive kings, each with a strong personal touch. Although different in style, they are all magnificent and extremely luxurious. It is a pity that the most essential parts of the palace cannot be captured in photos. The stone lions of the Royal Palace of Madrid look adorably silly.

The Royal Palace of Madrid is the most popular attraction in Madrid. To avoid not getting tickets on the day, it is recommended to book in advance on the official website, saving time queuing on site.

After the palace, we walked to Mercado de San Miguel. This is Madrid's famous food market, about 1 km from Plaza de España, a ten-minute walk. It is a large iron-and-glass structure covering 1,200 square meters. The market was renovated and opened in 2009. There are many stalls and counters where you can buy and eat on the spot. When we bought some food and leaned against the glass wall at the counter to eat, a sudden gust of wind blew over the umbrella of a restaurant across the way, and leaves swirled in the air for a long time without falling. Three stout young men struggled to lift the umbrella and tried to move it away.

The Temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple. The stones were transported piece by piece from Egypt to Madrid and carefully reconstructed, maintaining its original east–west orientation. It is one of the few Egyptian artifacts that can be seen outside Egypt. No ticket is required. The temple's observation deck offers a view of the city and is a great place to watch the sunset in Madrid. It is not far from the palace, but the wind was so strong that day that we were already dizzy. Although sunset was less than an hour away according to the forecast, we couldn't help but give up.