Family Reunion Trip to Spain During the 2023 Christmas Season - Córdoba and Granada, My Favorites of This Journey

December 21

After checking out, we called an Uber to Madrid's Atocha station. Online, it's described as the wonderful Atocha railway station because its interior is like a tropical plant paradise. Since I was constantly communicating with Shanghai about work, I didn't have a chance to appreciate the station. The train took less than 2 hours to reach Córdoba. Because we had seen various news about poor order and many pickpockets in Spain, we kept checking on our luggage on the rack.

We booked the apartment for 2 nights at Apartamentos Turísticos Duque de Hornachuelos, an 8-minute walk from the famous La Mezquita Mosque. From the station, it was a 10-minute walk to the old town. We first went to the reception to get the keys. The young man, speaking fluent English, explained how to check out and marked the main attractions on the map. Then we walked about 10 minutes to the center of Córdoba's old town, but Google Maps gave us wrong directions, so we couldn't open the door. Looking up, we realized we had the wrong house number. I wonder if any camera captured our gestures and expressions.

The sunlight was brilliant, making the clear sky sparkle like a gem. The cobblestone slopes, steps, high walls, balconies, and street lamps gave a sense of winding paths leading to hidden spots, making you feel suspended between reality and the Middle Ages. Specialty shops lined up one after another, and we couldn't resist buying some souvenirs. The Royal Palace looked simple, so we didn't buy tickets to go inside, but we were captivated by the palm trees around it, which are typical of the tropics. Is it usually very hot here? The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos in Córdoba is close to the Guadalquivir River, not far from the Roman Bridge, and just across the street from the famous Great Mosque.

Ahead was the Roman Bridge, an ancient bridge standing quietly over the Guadalquivir River, exuding tranquility and historical depth. A street performer played an accordion on a loop: "Bella ciao, bella ciao!" It seemed he didn't know any other songs. Standing at the southern end of the bridge, the mosque on the opposite bank and the ancient bridge complemented each other beautifully.

Our family has always loved Spanish ham, but it's too expensive in China. Since we were visiting the origin, we had to indulge. Seeing a shop on an old street with a black pig model as a sign outside, we were drawn in. Iberian ham (Jamón Ibérico) was displayed prominently, fixed on a stand with the pig's hoof pointing upward, the hoof facing up. The boss tightened the screw, sharpened the knife, and sliced the ham, which was firm and the knife sharp. The meat had a marbled texture. Personally, black label is more impressive for gifts, but for everyday eating, the difference between red and black labels isn't huge, so it's highly recommended. We bought 300 grams of 50% Iberian ham for just 15 euros—a delicious feast.

The 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom apartment had a fully equipped kitchen; guests only needed to buy food. Since Christmas was approaching, we were worried that restaurants and supermarkets might close during the holidays, so we rented apartments instead of hotels around that time. One key criterion was a well-equipped kitchen. Each time we bought a large cart of groceries and cooked for ourselves over the next few days.

Our daughter, who is studying in the UK, had been forced to learn cooking over the past few months and could skillfully fry steaks with good control of the heat. After 3 months, she finally got to taste her father's cooking again.

December 22

Today's main target was the Great Mosque of Córdoba (Mezquita de Córdoba), which is not only one of the most famous tourist attractions in Córdoba but also one of the largest Islamic sacred buildings in Spain. Although it looks like a mosque, it is actually a Christian church. As soon as we entered, we were drawn by the sound of singing. A group of six or seven teenagers were singing, accompanied only by simple guitar and harmonies. Their voices were beautiful, and their expressions were sincere and engaged, standing out against the ancient architecture.

This largest mosque in Spain is, for Spanish Muslims, a pilgrimage site second only to Mecca and Jerusalem. Geographically, the mosque consists of the Patio de los Naranjos (Orange Tree Courtyard) at the front and the main building at the back, forming a rectangular structure. Inside, there are 850 horseshoe arches. Besides their functional role, these arches also have a strong decorative effect. The horseshoe arches unfold layer upon layer, creating a sense of spacious depth. The bright red and white stripes on the arches are full of Arabic flair, creating a dreamy atmosphere. Because it was later converted into a church, it combines Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural styles, making a tour of the building feel like a journey through time.

Walking east along Cardental Herrero Street (where the Puerta del Perdón is located) from the north side of the Great Mosque, you soon reach a famous alley: Calleja de las Flores. The people of Córdoba love to grow flowers. In this narrow, winding alley, flowers hang on walls, sit on windowsills, and even the path is filled with floral fragrance. Girls should not miss this alley—any casual pose makes for a beautiful photo. The white walls on both sides are always decorated with seasonal flowers, and the artistic little shops give this tiny alley a spring-like atmosphere all year round. Travelers who love flowers and beauty should definitely not miss Calleja de las Flores.

Just around the corner from the flower alley, we found a highly rated small restaurant to taste local cuisine. The most famous dish in Córdoba is salmorejo (cold vegetable soup); meat lovers cannot miss the traditional Córdoba chicken and ham roll (Flamenquín)! And of course, braised oxtail (Rabo de toro), which is said to be slow-cooked for two to three hours.

Plaza del Potro is one of the representative landscapes of Córdoba. At the top of the fountain is a small horse statue, which is the city's emblem. This Renaissance fountain dates back to 1577, and the square is named after the horse on top. The square was once a bustling market where vendors gathered; now, there are many gift shops selling local specialties. We saw many people sitting in the sun enjoying food—an enviable way of life.

Before returning to the apartment, we went to the ham shop again to buy another variety of ham. Good food and beautiful scenery—both are essential.

December 23

In the morning, we packed up and quickly tidied the room, hoping that the hosts would see that after the Chinese guests checked out, the apartment was clean and tidy. We also took the garbage out with us when we left. Following the instructions, we dropped the keys into the mailbox on the first floor and set off for the next leg: taking the train from Córdoba to Granada.

Córdoba, Seville, and Granada are often called the golden triangle of southern Spanish tourism. Each has a heavy history, similar yet unique to one another. Because Granada was occupied by Arabs for a long time, it is probably the least Spanish city, with a strong Islamic flavor. Its complex history would take several lessons for a history teacher to explain. Roughly, it was ruled by Greeks, Visigoths, Jews, Moors, etc., experiencing war and chaos but also creating glory and splendor.

It's worth mentioning that English proficiency in Spain is average, especially among ordinary citizens. Please download Google Translate or the built-in translator on Apple phones—better safe than sorry. The landlord we met in Granada could only communicate via translator app, sentence by sentence. The apartment was great, but communication was tough.

Since we had a reservation to visit the Alhambra on the 24th, and the cathedral was closed on the 25th, we went to the Granada Cathedral first after dropping off our luggage. The cathedral is in the old town, tightly surrounded by other buildings. The entrance is unremarkable, but the interior is stunning. The entire interior is built of white marble, giving a very bright overall tone. Adult tickets cost 5 euros each, student tickets 3.5 euros, with an audio guide included in Chinese.

After leaving the cathedral, we immediately plunged into the narrow streets of the Albayzín district, climbing up ancient cobblestones. Soon we lost our sense of direction, barely managing with the map. The Albayzín is an old Muslim residential area in Granada, essentially a Moorish-era Muslim community. It has the same World Heritage status as the Alhambra. It features winding, narrow streets with a medieval atmosphere, as well as notorious safety warnings. Facing the magnificent Alhambra, it has accompanied history for a thousand years.

The alleys of Albayzín twist and turn, lined with shops of strong Arabic style selling various Arab foods and crafts. The alleys curve out of sight, and around a corner there might be a malicious person lurking. Indeed, the advice we had received was to avoid carrying bags while traveling in Spain, and instead use a simple bag for odds and ends—safe and inconspicuous.

At dusk, there were many tourists on the viewpoint, and street performers were singing, as is common across Europe. Sitting on the hilltop viewpoint, we looked across at the Alhambra. The mysterious palace, set against the deep blue sky, looked like a painting, with the snowy mountains in the background adding depth. Plaza San Nicolás, on the highest point of Albayzín, is the best place to view the Alhambra, its grandeur palpable. However, the climb up the steep, narrow, cobblestone streets was a bit painful.

December 24

If the Albayzín represents the Muslim life submerged in history, the Alhambra symbolizes the brilliance of the Arab kingdom. In Granada, one can either dive deep into history by walking through it, or gaze at this ancient civilization from the viewpoint on the opposite side. We had booked tickets for the Alhambra at 10 a.m., requiring us to arrive an hour early at the Nasrid Palaces.

Having checked transportation options beforehand, none were very convenient, so we decided to leave before dawn and walk to the Alhambra. There were few people on the streets; it was very quiet. Walking along the winding mountain path, we felt the cold ancient city. The silent streets echoed only my footsteps. To visit the Nasrid Palaces, you must enter within half an hour of the time indicated on your ticket. Due to space limitations, only 300 people are allowed every half hour. If you miss the time, you lose the right to enter.

The Alhambra is vast, consisting of five building groups: the Palace of Charles V, the Nasrid Palaces, the Upper Alhambra, the Alcazaba fortress, and the Generalife gardens. The Nasrid Palaces are the most exquisite part. Sunlight casts onto the buildings, bringing out the original colors of the walls. Light filters through the intricate carved decorations, full of historical patina. The Court of the Lions is dazzlingly beautiful. We strolled through the huge Alhambra, admiring the stalactite-decorated domes, delicate sculptures, and beautiful tiles, experiencing a world full of artistic symbols and visual delight in these structures and decorations.

Wood, stone, and plaster—these natural materials, under the precise design and processing of the "geometry masters"—the Moors—were transformed into infinite variations of simple shapes. The fading ornate carvings on the walls and ceilings, and the touchable Quranic inscriptions in Arabic on the walls—at that moment, we touched the passage of time.

Domes, attics, carvings, palm trees, and reflections in pools—these intricate carvings are so exquisite that calling them "divine workmanship" is no exaggeration. Rows of slender columns support the majestic dome; fine carvings cover every corner. The intricacy and colorfulness are dizzying and awe-inspiring. The strong contrast between reality and illusion, the peak of craftsmanship, have left all the artistic essence of the Moors here, making this place a testament to the zenith of the Moorish kingdom, a pride of Spain, and a treasure of human civilization. Now, only this palace remains to tell later generations of its past glory, passing history to the world.

Slightly out of place next to it is the Palace of Charles V—square on the outside, circular on the inside. The columns around the courtyard cast orderly shadows in the light, giving it a bold, rough aura like a bullfighter, forming a sharp contrast with the Islamic palace.

A bit farther away, the summer palace, the Generalife gardens, has neatly trimmed yew and shrubs forming arches. Low fountains murmur, flowers surround the pools. The empty Garden of Paradise and the Moorish bath are intoxicating. The canal sparkles with "musical notes" under the sunlight.

Travel tips: The Alhambra, one of the hardest tickets in the world to get, should be booked one to two months in advance on the official website, or a few weeks in advance via domestic travel platforms. This ensures you get your desired date and time slot. However, domestic travel platforms are more expensive than the official website. After comparison, we booked our tickets on the official website, so we could enter directly without exchanging tickets.

Today was a test of stamina! We toured continuously, not wanting to miss any beautiful part. After several hours, we were exhausted when we left the Alhambra. But we had an important task: to finish grocery shopping before the supermarkets and other stores closed early on the 24th.

This Christmas Eve, we spent in the wonderful city of Granada!