2023 Christmas Season Spain Family Reunion Trip - No Art, No Barcelona

December 28

Barcelona's metro and buses share a unified ticketing system - TMB, with tickets available at self-service machines in metro stations. Our first purchase was a mistake: we bought a T-Casual 10-trip ticket for €11.85, which is for single-person use, and then an 8-trip family card for €10.50. During our days in Barcelona, we relied heavily on bus and metro, using up tickets quickly, so we later bought another family card. This card can be shared by multiple people and is much cheaper than single tickets—a single bus ride costs €2.40. When using the metro or bus, inserting the card prints a usage record, and the card is automatically invalidated once all trips are used. Metro tickets are zoned; you can buy a single-zone ticket or one covering multiple zones. However, if you only plan to visit Park Güell, Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, and La Boqueria Market, a single zone is sufficient.

Barcelona is Gaudí's city. Ticket prices are high, and passes are available: GoCity All-Inclusive Pass (2-day €119, 3-day €149) or GoCity Explorer Pass (2 attractions €62, 3 attractions €84, 4 attractions €104). We bought all tickets individually on each attraction's official website, confirming entry times in advance.

The Sagrada Família is the most worthwhile attraction in Barcelona; it is strongly recommended to buy tickets in advance. Ticket + audio guide: adults €26, students €24. The ticket includes an app guide. I visited the Sagrada Família ten years ago; this time I listened carefully to the introductions of the three façades: the Nativity Façade, the Passion Façade, and the Glory Façade. The church's exterior is unique. Gaudí did something very disruptive: he brought what is usually inside the church to the outside. All the altarpieces, images, etc., are typically inside a cathedral; Gaudí moved them to the exterior walls and created a Bible carved in stone.

Online sources say it's better to visit the Sagrada Família in the afternoon because the light through the stained glass is more beautiful. In my opinion, the morning light is already quite beautiful. The windows facing the sunrise use cool tones—blue and green—corresponding to the colder early hours of the day. Then, as the sun progresses, the windows that catch the light turn red and orange, gradually warming. This provides a very symbolic passage of time, changing as the day goes on. The Sagrada Família plays a loop showcasing this beauty at different times; I recommend stopping to appreciate it.

Finally, visit the Sagrada Família Museum located under the southern transept. It first displays photos and brief introductions of the church from different periods. Inside, there is a model workshop where, through a glass wall, you can see workers making church models. Gaudí's era had no computers, yet the church he designed is extraordinarily complex. We marvel at his precise control over structural support and forces; in fact, he had his own research and testing methods. One model shows how Gaudí used the structural function of parabolas to elegantly support the church's vaults. The museum also displays the candlesticks and furniture Gaudí designed for the church's liturgy, as well as some small design elements.

As we walked out of the church toward the metro, we looked back at the unfinished façade. Even the gargoyles for drainage are vividly carved—frogs, lizards, and long snakes clinging to the walls. Instead of being frightening, they transport us to an ancient, natural, and innocent world.

Taking the metro, we conveniently arrived at La Boqueria Market, the largest and most diverse market in Europe. I heard its history dates back several hundred years. At that time, the market was very rudimentary—vendors would set up a few tables in a small open-air space. The main goods sold were fish and meat, not as varied and complete as today. If you are a foodie, you will not be disappointed here. Fresh seafood, cheese, ham, drinks, and cold beverages... Under the warm yellow lights, everything firmly captures the eyes and stomachs of gourmands. This market is much larger than the San Miguel Market we visited in Madrid. The arrangement and lighting of the food make the already dazzling array of goods glisten; just looking at them is enough to make your mouth water, with even more beauty and temptation. We spotted a seafood stall in the market, and the staff led us to a restaurant on the edge of the market. We rested there and enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch.

Barcelona is Gaudí's city. Gaudí is known as "God's architect." Seventeen of his works are listed as national monuments in Spain, and seven are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. His works' greatest feature is drawing inspiration from nature; he believed that curves are the most beautiful. There is hardly a straight line in his works; every line is full of vitality. The grand, fantastical architectural curves, both colorful and intriguing, make one want to be immersed.

First, we went to Casa Milà. The entire building has no edges or corners. The large wavy exterior and the strangely shaped chimneys and ventilation ducts on the rooftop create a sense of flowing time and space.

Finally, we arrived at Casa Batlló. This fairytale-style Gaudí building is as dreamy as the sea. Many people come here, so be sure to buy tickets in advance. Even with a reservation, you have to wait in line outside; we waited about half an hour to enter.

Both houses are very interesting in design, full of imagination inside and out, with dreamy curved lines and colors. We touched the handrails and sat on the beautifully designed ergonomic chairs. We could only lament like paupers: How comfortable the lives of the rich are! Not only comfortable dwellings but also artistic.

The souvenir shops at Casa Batlló and Casa Milà are worth visiting. All souvenirs borrow elements from Gaudí's designs—colorful tiles, the sea, stained glass, etc.—and various small items are exquisitely crafted.

Following the bustling Passeig de Gràcia, we arrived at the Spanish large department store chain El Corte Inglés in Plaça de Catalunya, hoping to buy some souvenirs. It was packed with people. During our days strolling on the commercial streets of Spain, we were surprised to discover that Spain really has so many people!!!!

We had dinner at a Japanese restaurant near the hotel in the evening; it was nothing special.

December 29

Early this morning, we encountered an embarrassing situation. We originally planned to visit Park Güell, which I had visited ten years ago. The vibrant scene at dusk—including the architecture and people—left a deep impression on me, and it was worth a return visit. Unexpectedly, when we arrived at the park, tickets had already sold out. Who would have thought that such a large park could run out of tickets? We thought only venues with limited space would have capacity control. It was a pity; we turned around and headed to our second stop. Remember to buy tickets in advance.

In Barcelona, there is a street that cuts through the city center, mixing a dizzying array of elements: historic architecture, flower and bird markets, street performances... The southern end of La Rambla leads to Plaça del Portal de la Pau, and in front of the square lies the blue Mediterranean Sea. In the center of the square stands the magnificent Columbus Monument. Built of dark red marble, the monument is 60 meters high, inscribed with the words "Glory to Columbus" and "Tribute to Columbus." In the middle of the monument, five flying goddesses are carved. At the base are eight giant black lions and a seated statue of Queen Isabella of Spain. On top, Columbus holds a copy of Marco Polo's travels, pointing one finger toward the vast, misty sea, his gaze piercing the fog over the Mediterranean, looking eastward. In 1492, Columbus set sail. A year later, Columbus returned triumphantly with news of discovering the Spice Islands, and the King of Spain personally welcomed the returning hero here. We carefully examined the carvings at the base depicting several historical moments, marveling at the chapters of Columbus's life.

The weather forecast said it would be cloudy, but at that moment, sunlight broke through the clouds and spilled onto the sea, making the masts of numerous yachts glisten. We sat on a bench by the sea, watching the cold ripples rise gently, white birds drift down. I, who had started a video conference at 7 a.m. that day, slowly relaxed. After we were satisfied feeding the birds by the sea, we walked along La Rambla into the ancient Gothic Quarter. Street performers and vendors brought the whole street to life. Families, locals, and tourists alike were enjoying the winter sun and the leisurely holiday atmosphere; even the fastest-working brains slowed down at this moment.

The best way to experience a city is on foot—what more and more people nowadays call city walking. The Gothic Quarter is an important part of Barcelona's old town and the city center. It was once a Roman village, so the atmosphere of its glorious past is everywhere. Naturally, it's a place tourists cannot miss.

Following the winding alleys of the Gothic Quarter, we arrived at the famous Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the Government of Catalonia and Barcelona City Hall are located. A few steps further brought us to the Barcelona Cathedral, the heart of the old town, sprawling in all directions, full of vibrant life. We enjoyed strolling, pausing to look, temporarily forgetting the attractions we intended to visit, lingering outside various small shops. Continuing north, we reached the Kiss of Freedom wall, a "kissing wall" made of thousands of red and pink ceramic photos collected from citizens through the internet. From a distance, it looks like a pair of people kissing.

The old town was rich with holiday atmosphere; around every corner there might be a surprise—performances, juggling, specialty shops packed with people—something that made us, who are used to online shopping, quite envious.

Tonight was the last dinner in Spain. Over the past many days, we had always dined indoors. Everyone unanimously agreed to eat outside like foreigners, to experience the power of the nearby heater. Surrounded by warm coziness, the delicious pizza and pasta did not disappoint us. The three of us cherished this final moment together.

December 30, 2023

It was time to say goodbye. Our daughter's flight to the UK was from Terminal 2, departing slightly later. My husband and I were to fly from Terminal 1 to Frankfurt and then transfer to Shanghai. After checking out, we took a taxi together to the airport. Our daughter saw us through security first. We hugged each other tightly; the next time we will meet might be half a year later. Life is a journey; the most important thing is not to miss any wonderful moments!

Tax refund at Barcelona Airport is very convenient. After entering Terminal 1, on the far left, you can see the tax refund point in the corner. The Spanish customs now use machines to scan the barcode on the shopping tax refund form. Then go to Global Blue, hand the tax refund form to the staff, and tell them you want cash in euros—simple! Shopping in Spain is very cost-effective because luxury brands have the same pricing across Europe; the difference lies in each country's tax refund threshold and rate. Spain has the lowest tax refund threshold in Europe and the highest refund rate. Although we didn't buy any luxury brands, the tax refund was enough for us to buy two bottles of wine at the airport on the way back.

The return flight had Wi-Fi; the speed wasn't fast, but it was fine for sending WeChat messages.

Before the trip to Spain, I had been curious about how these different religious elements coexist harmoniously. During the trip, we couldn't help but marvel: it was precisely the complex history that allowed us to witness such a magical scene today. Even without flipping through history books (which some might find boring), when we step into Spain, we still feel that it is quite different from other European countries. But this difference is not abrupt; it feels more like a fusion: the overlapping, covering, and assimilation of different cultural imprints, ultimately forming a new unique mark.

Tips for Independent Travel:

1. Schengen Visa

Previously, it was very difficult to get a Spain visa appointment; I heard it was controlled by scalpers. Our daughter learned from Xiaohongshu that Spain's visa system was being updated, so she kept an eye on it. Suddenly one day she said the system was ready, and appointment dates were almost freely available. So we immediately applied from China. The system had just been upgraded and still had some bugs. I even emailed the information center, and they quickly replied that it was fine as long as a booking QR code was shown.

Our daughter applied from the UK, which was more convenient; she got a visa valid for six months with multiple entries. My husband booked a day later than I did, so the regular 875 RMB normal channel visa dates were no longer available for me. He had to pay extra for the 1180 RMB premier channel date. We submitted our applications on the same day, but he was processed in a small hall while I was in the main hall. The visa's validity started on the very day we arrived in Spain—not a day more. A one-and-a-half-month multiple-entry validity was also quite funny.

2. 15-Day Overseas Data Package

There are several ways to get overseas data: one is to rent a portable Wi-Fi device, which our family used when going to Japan. The second is to buy a local SIM card and switch cards upon arrival. We chose the third option: China Mobile's daily 30 RMB unlimited data package. For our 15-day trip, it was still quite expensive per person. When I went to the UK in September, I used this method; it was very convenient—just turn on your phone and use data upon arrival. This time, China Mobile had a buy-one-get-one-free promotion. Both of us are China Mobile customers, so it was effectively half price. I recommend checking and comparing before purchasing.

3. Safety. I believe many people have seen online that pickpockets are rampant in Spain, with theft methods being unpredictable and varied. In Spain and even Europe, thieves know that Asian tourists, especially Chinese tourists, are lucrative! During our half-month trip, we witnessed several incidents of theft. I suggest carrying a bag with a zipper, making it look as cheap and low-key as possible. We also bought a small body wallet to hold documents, cash, and cards, keeping only small change in an outer pocket.

4. Traveling by Train and Coach. Traveling by train in Spain is an excellent way to explore the country, allowing you to relax and enjoy the scenery along the way. Spain has an extensive railway network, the largest in Europe and the second largest in the world. Spanish trains are modern and clean. Ticket prices are quite high, but if you plan ahead and buy tickets early, you can get discounted fares. I compared the Spanish versions of Omio and Trainline; both show prices and schedules for trains and buses, and have convenient apps for checking. The trains and coaches we took during this trip were all punctual, with good conditions and comfortable seats. If you plan to drive, there are two aspects to consider: first, parking in the old town is inconvenient, and roads are narrow with many restrictions; second, there are reports of parked vehicles being broken into, resulting in significant losses.