Stories Told by Architecture – A 9-Day Self-Drive Tour of Spain
Why does Spain attract people from all over the world? Is it the dazzling historical monuments, or the breathtaking scenery and architecture? Is it the charming Madrid or the rural villages immortalized by Cervantes in his book? Is it the Mediterranean sun or the thrilling bullfights? Why do people say, 'The whole world loves Europe, but Europeans love Spain'?
As one of the countries with the most World Heritage sites, Spain is a land of vibrant culture and talent. From the Roman aqueduct in Segovia to the Alhambra in Granada, from the Alhambra to the Sagrada Familia, Spain interprets what 'perfection' means with one architectural marvel after another. From Picasso to Dalí, genius inspiration freely flows under the Spanish sun. Mountains, countryside, sunshine, beaches, the glorious history, and the world-shining artistic treasures are like pearls, emitting a soft yet brilliant radiance.
Spain, a country historically invaded by the Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, and others, has seen various cultures separate, interlace, replace, separate again, and blend over time. The clever fusion and borrowing of different styles have made its culture eclectic and its architecture uniquely charming. You can see Gothic cathedrals, medieval classical town halls, Romanesque monasteries, and modern Art Nouveau abstract museums on the streets... These buildings vividly reflect Spain's colorful culture.
Here, all mainstream concepts lose their meaning. The development of Spanish culture and architecture grows in a wandering way, with events connected so freely, disorderly, randomly, and full of coincidences, just as brilliant as Cervantes' 'Don Quixote.' You don't even know where it starts with 'once upon a time,' nor what its next 'but that's another story' refers to. In fact, you don't need to know at all. For those about to set foot on the Iberian Peninsula, it is enough to simply enjoy the insights and pleasures brought by the unexpected.
'No country is better than Spain for spinning stories.' Come on, let's step into the story together...
Day 1 Madrid Due to road closures, after lunch we checked into Hotel Quatro Puerta del Sol. After settling in, we passed through Plaza Mayor and watched the sunset at the entrance of the Royal Palace of Madrid.
Day 2 Segovia Checked into Hotel Real Segovia. After breakfast, we visited the Royal Palace of Madrid. After lunch, we passed through Las Rozas Shopping Village to Segovia and checked into a nearly century-old hotel.
Day 3 Salamanca Checked into Hotel Casino del Tormes. After breakfast, we admired the ancient city of Segovia. After lunch, we hurried to Salamanca.
Day 8 Seville Checked into La Suite de Rubens. At noon, we returned to Spain from Portugal. After admiring the Seville Cathedral, we visited Plaza de España in the evening.
Day 9 Granada Checked into Carmen Terrazas de la Alhambra. After lunch, we visited the Alhambra.
Day 10 Torrevieja Checked into Hostal HB Torrevieja, the trendy area of Torrevieja, Spain.
Day 11 Valencia Checked into Mon Suites Catedral. Visited Valencia Cathedral.
Day 12 Barcelona Checked into Hostal Marenostrum. Visited Sagrada Familia.
Day 13 Barcelona.
Arriving in Madrid at noon, like other European cities, the roads twisted and turned, making a short distance seem endless. Today was even stranger; the navigation's required road was closed. After circling a few times, we stumbled upon a parking lot and stopped to eat. We randomly entered a restaurant that seemed full of locals. We ordered paella for three, but in the end, we couldn't finish it.
The Plaza Mayor area mainly sells traditional items like various fabrics, ropes, hats, and religious goods. The square was built by Philip III in 1619 and is a uniquely styled rectangular square, 128 meters wide and 94 meters long, surrounded by four-story buildings. In the center stands an equestrian statue of Philip III. Over the long years after its completion, it suffered three fires and was rebuilt, finally taking its current form in 1953.
The Almudena Cathedral is directly opposite the Royal Palace of Madrid and has a striking appearance. It is actually a royal church. Construction began in 1879 and was completed in 1993 after more than a century, making it young compared to the Seville Cathedral and the Great Mosque of Córdoba mentioned earlier. In 2004, the globally sensational wedding of Spanish Crown Prince Felipe and news anchor Letizia took place here, giving birth to Spain's first commoner queen.
The Royal Palace of Madrid is the third largest palace in Europe after Versailles and the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna. It was built in 1738 and took 26 years to complete. It is one of the best-preserved and most exquisite palaces in the world. The exterior is square, similar to the Louvre in Paris; the interior decoration is Italian-style, magnificent. The palace houses countless gold and silver items, paintings, porcelain, tapestries, and other royal belongings. The palace has been converted into a museum; tickets should be bought online in advance. Standing in a long line in the cold wind is truly torture.
The origin of the Royal Palace of Madrid dates back to the 9th century, when it was first a fortress built by the Moorish king of Toledo on the left bank of the Manzanares River to defend against invasions. Later, it was occupied by the Kingdom of Castile. In the 16th century, it became the Alcázar. On Christmas Eve 1734, the Alcázar was destroyed by a fire, and Philip V decided to build a new palace on the site. The main structure of the rebuilt palace was made entirely of stone and brick, without any wood, so no fire could ever destroy it again. Most areas inside the palace do not allow photography; we could only take photos on the staircase at the entrance.
Las Rozas Shopping Village is located at the edge of the mountains, only a 30-minute drive from Madrid. It gathers over 100 Spanish and international brand boutiques. Once we started shopping, we lost track of time; suddenly we realized it was dark and reluctantly left. As a result, we encountered heavy snow while crossing the mountains.
The name Segovia comes from Celtic-Iberian, meaning 'city of victory.' The old city sits on a narrow rocky outcrop, with numerous historic sites, including the cathedral, the Roman aqueduct, the Alcázar of Segovia, and many Romanesque churches such as San Esteban, San Martín, and San Millán. The surrounding walls were built in the 8th century on Roman foundations and have been heavily restored in recent decades.
Early in the morning, we braved the snow and strolled through this ancient city that displays a complex historical reality. The layout, streets, and houses reflect different cultural backgrounds—Moorish, Christian, and Jewish. Just walking around, we step into history. I thought how pleasant it would be to stay here for a few more days.
Segovia Cathedral stood proudly in the heavy snow. We almost rushed inside and were immediately stunned by its grandeur. If Romanesque architecture uses its solid, sturdy, immovable form to show the authority of the church, with a sense of tradition and revival, then Gothic uses the barbaric boldness, lightness, and upward force to embody the sacred spirit of the church. Its vertical lines, sudden spatial transitions, colorful light through stained glass, and various delicate carvings create an 'otherworldly' atmosphere, giving a sense of mystery. Some say Romanesque architecture is an earthly palace, while Gothic is a divine palace in heaven.
The Roman aqueduct was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan (53–117 AD) and remains intact today. The aqueduct is made of yellowish-brown granite dry-laid (without mortar) and is extremely sturdy. It is 813 meters long, has two levels, 148 arches, and rises 30.25 meters above ground, imposing.
The schedule was a bit tight; we had to leave at noon, and there was no time to visit the castle, which was a pity. However, we did have a very authentic Chinese meal in the city, which was some comfort.
Most of the buildings in Salamanca were built in the 19th century by the Marquis of Salamanca and have now become one of the most luxurious neighborhoods in Europe, a symbol of elegance and charm. It is said that most buildings in Salamanca have red graffiti, a tradition dating back to the 15th century: after obtaining a degree, students would celebrate by participating in bullfights and then write the word 'victory' on the wall with the bull's blood, along with the date. But we didn't see many of those red marks.
When we came out of the cathedral, it was dusk, and a biting wind was blowing through the alleys. It is said that the stone used in Salamanca's buildings sparkles under the night lights, so Salamanca is also called the Golden City. But the weather was not suitable for a walk in the old city, so we chose a restaurant with a thick wooden door that kept the cold out.
Returning to Spain from Portugal, the first city we passed was Seville. We arrived around two o'clock, but unfortunately the host was late, wasting some time. After settling in, we hurried to the city center. Passing by the beautiful and understated Salvador Church, with many people sitting in the sun drinking coffee, but no queue at the door, we quickly decided to go in first before visiting the cathedral.
The beautiful, understated exterior masked the church's true nature; the extremely ornate golden Baroque interior decoration stunned us as soon as we entered. This church felt more intimate and charming. Luckily, we bought a combined ticket for Salvador and the cathedral, so we didn't have to queue in the long line in front of the cathedral. We were quite pleased.
Seville, like many European cities, has a cathedral marking its center. The majestic cathedral always has a spacious hall, a splendid chapel, and a high bell tower to enhance its grandeur. The Seville Cathedral is undoubtedly spectacular in these aspects, but what truly fascinates people is the bell tower called La Giralda.
Seville Cathedral is the third largest cathedral in the world after St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican and Milan Cathedral in Italy. Built between 1402 and 1506, over more than a century of construction, it was influenced by various architectural styles such as Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque, but the entire building belongs to the height of Spanish Gothic art, while also incorporating Arabic architectural elements. The organic combination of the two forms the architectural masterpiece we see today.
Plaza de España in Seville was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It is a typical example of the Spanish Renaissance Revival architectural style and a microcosm of Moorish Revival architecture. It is a huge 270-degree semicircular square, with the main tower in the center and secondary towers at the two ends, the opening facing the María Luisa Park. Designed by architect Aníbal, the building is decorated with various tiles representing the original 58 provinces of Spain, depicting the diverse charms of Spanish cities. Roman-style arcades, arches, columns, as well as fountains, rivers, small bridges, tiled railings, and a blend of Arabic and Spanish architectural styles make Seville's Plaza de España unique and beautiful!
Returning from Plaza de España to the hotel required crossing half of Seville's old city. After some hesitation, we decided to walk back, as we could once again admire this exquisitely detailed ancient city, and because chances to unexpectedly stand before a thousand-year-old monument are rare.
Granada is a city suitable for strolling and contemplation. The artistic brilliance displayed by its monuments and the shimmering beauty of fountains, ponds, and parks are a delight to the eyes. The narrow streets contrast sharply with the splendid gardens. With its religious atmosphere and the joyful caves of the Sacromonte district, Granada always offers new impressions.
Today's Granada is Spain's precious cultural heritage and artistic wealth. The Alhambra complex, the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, the bullring, and other relics attract tourists from all over the world every year. According to statistics, Granada receives the highest number of visitors among all Spanish cities.
The Alhambra Palace was the palace of the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada, built by the Moors in Spain. Its name comes from Arabic, meaning 'red fortress.' Located on a highland at the northern end of the city, it is the essence of Arabic architectural art. After the Moors were expelled from Spain in 1492, the Alhambra fell into disrepair. In 1828, with funding from Ferdinand VII, architect José Contreras, along with his son and grandson, carried out long-term restoration and reconstruction, restoring it to its original appearance. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Alhambra is vastly different from other Spanish palaces. There are no eye-catching large portraits, no gold and silver cups, no jewels or jade, and no luxurious furniture... The empty halls highlight only the intricately carved walls: from every arch's door frame, window frame, and niche to the ceiling, spiral Arabic inscriptions and geometric patterns cover almost the entire interior. Most tourists cannot read the Arabic script, adding a touch of mystery. The dazzling carvings are not stone or brick, but plaster stucco carvings.
Leaving the Alhambra at dusk, we hurried to the hotel. The hotel was on a hillside, accessed by narrow and steep mountain roads. We admired the driver's skill, but also felt the charm of this old city built along the mountain, ancient and elegant, like a beauty in her twilight years, retaining her former charm. Following the owner's recommendation, we went down to the city center for dinner. Walking on the dark stone slabs, weaving through narrow alleys felt like entering a maze. It was a well-known local restaurant, crowded and noisy.
Today's destination was the trendy attraction: the pink Torrevieja. We passed through Murcia to find a lunch restaurant. A delicious Chinese restaurant was near the Murcia Cathedral. Unfortunately, the cathedral was not open at that time, so we could only linger outside: it is said that the cathedral's 23 chapels and a 92-meter tower encompass almost all architectural styles. The main cathedral of the Diocese of Cartagena was built between 1394 and 1465 in Gothic style. The bell tower was completed only in 1792, showing a mix of styles: the bottom two floors are Renaissance (1521-1546), the third floor is Baroque, the dome is influenced by Rococo and Neoclassicism, and the façade (1736-1754) is Spanish Baroque.
It is said that the Torrevieja salt lake in Spain is a pink pearl in the green fields, with ripples spreading romance. Perhaps because it was a cold winter day, we could not experience the so-called freshness, elegance, and pink visual seasoning. However, the reeds on the shore shimmered with unique colors under the setting sun.
Torrevieja is a small coastal town with scenery as beautiful as a painting: azure sea, soft sand, soaring birds, playing fish and shrimp, people always playing on the soft beach. It is a paradise of nature and a heaven for leisure travel. The ancient and traditional church has always existed here, witnessing the upheavals and changes, as well as many joys and sorrows. Together with the museum on the street and the natural park, it forms the most beautiful city. The Chinese food was delicious, and although we walked quite a distance, it was worth it.
Valencia was originally a small village founded by the ancient Greeks. After being conquered by the Romans in 138 BC, it was renamed 'Valencia' and has been used ever since. The Romans brought language and culture, the Visigoths left an incomplete history after a brief stay, and the Arabs later turned Valencia into a beautiful garden with scientific wealth. That's why the Spanish say, 'Valencia was built by the Romans but developed by the Arabs.'
Valencia Cathedral was built on the site of a mosque from the 3rd century. Construction began in 1262 and ended in 1426, with later expansions and renovations adding other styles to its mainly Gothic style. The three entrances are respectively Neo-Romanesque (main entrance), Baroque (south side portal), and Visigothic (north side Apostles' Door). The Holy Grail Chapel houses what is said to be the cup used by Jesus at the Last Supper.
The Serrano Towers were built in the 14th century as part of Valencia's city walls. Today, the walls are mostly destroyed, leaving only two gates, of which this is one.
La Rambla is the first wide avenue built in Barcelona. Known for the various street performers and live statues along the way, it is also famously called 'Street of Wanderers.' Our hotel was on this street. Coming from Valencia to Barcelona felt like entering a different world, colorful and dazzling.
Although not yet completed, the Sagrada Familia has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In November 2010, Pope Benedict XVI designated the church a basilica. Construction began in 1882, and Gaudí took over in 1883, incorporating his own architectural style along with Gothic and Art Nouveau elements. Gaudí devoted his later years to the church's construction until his death at age 73 (1926), by which time less than a quarter was finished. It is expected to be completed in 2026, the centenary of Gaudí's death. Hopefully, I can come back then.
The exterior of the Sagrada Familia is awe-inspiring, but the interior, with its dreamlike design and play of light, is truly breathtaking. The church mimics a forest of towering trees; stepping inside feels like entering an ancient woodland. Sunlight streams in through the magnificent ceiling, creating a mysterious and ethereal atmosphere. Gaudí's genius shines brilliantly within. The Sagrada Familia is a revolution in church architecture, interpreting the divine world with a completely different understanding.
La Roca Village is located on the road to the Costa Brava. Although only a 40-minute drive from Barcelona, finding the right exit was not easy. We circled around for half an hour before finally getting off the highway. We arrived at this peaceful and beautiful place in Catalonia.
A few short days were not enough to truly discover Spain's wonders, so I consider this trip a reconnaissance. I hope to set foot on this passionate land again in the near future.