Summer 2019 Travelogue: Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary (Part 2)
(Continued from Part 1)
Day 11: Morning sunny with some clouds. Today we visited Schönbrunn Palace, located in the southwestern part of Vienna. It is a Baroque-style building that once served as the imperial palace for the Holy Roman Empire, Austrian Empire, Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the Habsburg dynasty.
According to legend, in 1612, Holy Roman Emperor Matthias hunted here and drank from a spring, finding it refreshing and sweet, so he named it "Schönbrunn" (Beautiful Spring), and the area became known by that name. In 1743, Empress Maria Theresa ordered the construction of a palace here, resulting in this magnificent palace and Baroque garden. Covering an area of 26,000 square meters, it is second only to the Palace of Versailles in France.
The palace has 1,400 rooms. Entering through the central hall,
44 rooms are in Rococo style, delicate and elegant, while most other rooms are Baroque.
There are also rooms in Eastern classical styles, such as Chinese rooms inlaid with rosewood, ebony, and ivory, and Japanese rooms decorated with gold and lacquer.
The interior decorations are also coordinated in Eastern style, with ceramics embedded in the walls and ceilings.
Among the dazzling array of ceramics are Chinese celadon, large Ming Dynasty Wanli polychrome porcelain plates, and enamel vases.
The scale and luxury of Schönbrunn's design originally rivaled or even surpassed Versailles, but due to financial constraints, the original plans could not be fully realized.
Forty-five rooms of Schönbrunn are open to the public. Tickets are available for either a tour of 45 rooms or 22 rooms.
We chose the 45-room tour,
queued at the entrance to pick up audio guides in various languages, and began the tour listening to explanations. Schönbrunn displayed the grandeur of the Habsburg dynasty.
On the walls of the palace corridors hung portraits of successive Habsburg emperors and the 16 children of Empress Maria Theresa.
Among them was a portrait of the young Marie Antoinette, the French queen who later went to the guillotine with King Louis XVI.
Many stories of Schönbrunn are associated with Empress Elisabeth (Sisi). The current exhibits show many rooms as they were when Sisi lived there.
It is indeed a place worth visiting. I had visited before, and even on this second visit, I found it still fascinating.
Behind Schönbrunn is the large Royal Garden, which can be toured by horse-drawn carriage. We boarded a beautifully decorated carriage, and a coachman in traditional attire drove us around the garden.
This is a typical French-style garden, with large flower beds flanked by neatly trimmed green hedges, inside which are 44 statues of figures from Greek mythology.
At the end of the garden is the "Neptune Fountain," and to the east is the modest "Beautiful Spring" that gave the palace its name.
Directly opposite the spring is an artificial Roman ruin and an obelisk.
As is well known, obelisks are ancient Egyptian artifacts. Interestingly, this obelisk is supported by a tortoise.
Perhaps there is some Chinese artistic influence here.
The highest point of Schönbrunn is the Gloriette, built in 1775 and originally used as a dining hall and breakfast room for Emperor Joseph I.
Today, the Gloriette houses a café with a panoramic view of Vienna.
To the west of the Neptune Fountain are the zoo and the tropical plant greenhouse.
The Imperial Carriage Museum was once a winter riding school.
Today, it displays over sixty imperial carriages used by the Habsburg Empire since 1690.
The most precious is a four-ton, eight-horse carriage used exclusively for weddings and coronations.
After the visit, it was noon. We called a taxi to the Naschmarkt for lunch.
This is Vienna's most famous market, with over a hundred stalls and small shops offering a wide variety of choices.
There are cuisines from Vienna, India, Vietnam, Italy, and more.
There are also cafés for coffee and pastries.
We chose an Italian restaurant.
After lunch, we walked a few hundred meters to St. Charles's Church (Karlskirche) on the south side of Karlsplatz. The church was completed in 1737, 80 meters long, 60 meters wide, and 72 meters high.
During the plague of 1713, Emperor Charles VI vowed that if Vienna were spared, he would build a church dedicated to St. Charles Borromeo, the former Archbishop of Milan and protector against the plague.
The next year, a competition was held for the church design, won by the father-son team of Erlach. A magnificent yet elegant Baroque masterpiece was born: the grand dome and portico are modeled after ancient Greek and Roman architecture.
The interior is filled with exquisite carvings and altarpieces by famous artists of the time. The two large columns are modeled after Trajan's Column in Rome, with spiral reliefs depicting the life of St. Charles Borromeo; the left column represents strong faith, and the right column represents courage.
On the east side of Karlsplatz is the Wien Museum (Karlsplatz), which presents the history of Vienna from ancient times to the present. It houses materials representing Vienna's various artistic styles and music, including manuscripts of many classical music masters.
Crossing the Ringstraße on the north side of Karlsplatz leads to the "Golden Hall" (Musikverein). The Ringstraße is a famous boulevard in Vienna, lined with trees and various architectural styles.
In 1857, Emperor Franz Joseph ordered the demolition of the medieval city walls to expand the city and build the Ringstraße. The buildings along the boulevard were mostly constructed between 1861 and 1888, reflecting the brilliant achievements of urban architecture in the late 19th century.
For example, the City Hall is Neo-Gothic, while the State Opera House embodies Renaissance architectural features.
The "Golden Hall" is not an independent building but part of the Musikverein building, which contains several concert halls, including the Brahms Hall and Mozart Hall, as well as offices. The Golden Hall is the centerpiece of Vienna's musical life and the permanent venue of the Vienna Philharmonic. The Vienna New Year's Concert is traditionally held here, and its golden decorations and unparalleled acoustics are broadcast worldwide each year.
Construction of the Musikverein began in 1867 and was completed in 1869, in the Italian Renaissance style. The exterior is yellow and red, with many statues of music goddesses on the roof, giving it an elegant appearance. During the day, the building looks ordinary, but at night, illuminated, it shines brilliantly.
We bought tickets at the box office for the symphony concert starting at 8 pm in the Golden Hall. The hall is 48.80 meters long, 19.10 meters wide, and 17.75 meters high. When it was built, "acoustics" was not yet a science, but the architect's unique insights into resonance and sound transmission, including a hollow space under the wooden floor, careful calculation of box divisions and the arrangement of caryatids, and the use of materials that prevent static interference, ensure that listeners everywhere enjoy the same sound quality.
From the Golden Hall, we walked west along the Ringstraße to the State Opera House on the northwest side of Karlsplatz. It is one of the world's most famous opera houses, known as the "World Opera Center," and a major symbol of Vienna. The Vienna State Opera was originally the Royal Court Theater, construction started in 1861 and took eight years to complete, covering an area of 9,000 square meters. It is a tall, square Romanesque building modeled after Italian Renaissance theaters, built entirely of light yellow marble from Italy.
The front has five arched gates, with five arched windows above, each topped with a bronze statue of an opera goddess representing heroism, drama, imagination, art, and love. On the roof stand bronze statues of the god of drama riding a winged horse.
Inside the gate, the walls are painted with scenes from Mozart's last opera, "The Magic Flute." In the lounges and corridors, many oil paintings depict the most brilliant scenes from the greatest operas of the most accomplished musicians, with golden busts of the musicians above each painting.
To the east of the opera house is Kärntner Straße, Vienna's most famous upscale pedestrian shopping street. Traditional and modern buildings blend harmoniously along the street.
Walking north along the pedestrian street, we arrived at St. Stephen's Cathedral. The church was first built in 1147 as a Romanesque church, underwent a major renovation ordered by Rudolf IV in the 14th century, was destroyed by fire in World War II, and rebuilt several times to become the Gothic cathedral we see today.
Funerals of Austrian emperors have been held in this magnificent church. Since the late 15th century, St. Stephen's Cathedral has been the seat of the Catholic diocese and Austria's most important church. It consists of one main building and three towers, with soaring conical spires and a colorful tiled roof of green and yellow, shining in sunlight. The roof features a coat of arms and the double-headed eagle of the Habsburg dynasty, which is very impressive. The interior has undergone several renovations, blending various European architectural styles. Sunlight streams through brightly colored stained-glass windows.
In the center is a grand Gothic pulpit, and above it, on the organ support, is a statue of an evangelist holding a compass and ruler.
Other notable features include a "Mourning Christ" statue and a Baroque altar depicting the coronation of Mary, finely carved.
In the catacombs beneath St. Stephen's Cathedral rest the remains of about 2,000 plague victims and the entrails of 72 Habsburg royals. The coffins of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III and Rudolf IV are also here; Frederick III's large stone sarcophagus, weighing 8 tons, is a masterpiece of late Gothic sculpture from the early 16th century.
On the square outside the church, a group of children were dancing under the guidance of their teacher, attracting onlookers.
From the small street south of the church, we walked east to the Stadtpark.
Vienna's Stadtpark covers about 65,000 square meters, spanning both sides of the Vienna River, connected by bridges.
A gilded statue of the famous musician Johann Strauss stands in the center of the park.
From Easter in April to the end of October, there are free Johann Strauss concerts here every day, with professional dancers demonstrating standard waltz steps.
We rested on a park bench for a long time before having dinner at a restaurant called "Schwarzenberg" on a street not far from the Golden Hall.
We timed our entry to the concert hall and arrived on time. The hall was resplendent in gold.
Tourists from all over the world gathered.
This type of concert is mostly for tourists; the quality is not particularly high. Compared to the Sejong concert at the Smetana Hall in Prague, there is a huge gap in scale, lineup, and performance level.
If the Prague concert was a feast, the Golden Hall concert was like a McDonald's fast-food meal. But most tourists only care about the experience of having attended a concert in the Golden Hall. Seeing the performers in traditional attire, they took photos and were satisfied.
The two-hour concert ended, and the audience applauded politely. We left the building. At night, the building was brilliantly lit, magnificent and dazzling. After taking photos, we took a taxi back to the hotel to rest.
Day 12: Today was sunny. After breakfast, we took a taxi to Heroes' Square (Heldenplatz). Heroes' Square is the outer square of the Hofburg Palace, built during the reign of Emperor Franz Joseph I as part of the unfinished "Imperial Square."
To the northeast is the old Hofburg, to the southeast the New Hofburg, and to the southwest the inner Ringstraße separates it from the Museumsquartier. Around the square are also the National Library, the President's Office, the Chancellor's Office, Vienna City Hall, the Parliament Building, the Natural History Museum, and the Art History Museum.
Heroes' Square features statues of two Austrian heroes: Prince Eugene of Savoy in front of the New Burg, looking very handsome on his horse, and on the opposite side, Archduke Charles, the most brilliant Austrian general after Eugene.
The statue captures the moment during the Battle of Aspern-Essling when the Archduke personally raised the army flag and led Austrian troops to stop the French charge. The square is named after these two Austrian heroes. The museum area is one of the world's ten largest cultural districts, covering 60,000 square meters, originally the imperial stables. Now it is filled with various cultural facilities, restaurants, cafés, and shops, with Baroque and modern architecture blending to form a hyper-modern style.
Our main purpose today was to visit the Sisi Museum. The Sisi Museum is located in the old Hofburg Palace. The Hofburg was once the winter residence of the Habsburg emperors of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (summer residence was Schönbrunn).
Today, the Hofburg is the official residence of the Austrian president. From 1275 to 1913, it underwent many renovations and reconstructions, eventually becoming a huge palace with 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,500 rooms. The palace is built on uneven terrain, divided into an upper and a lower section.
The upper section is used for offices, receptions, and grand events; the lower section served as living quarters. The architectural styles, including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Classicist, blend harmoniously.
The Hofburg can be roughly divided into the New Palace, Old Palace, Chancellery Wing, Amalia Wing, Heroes' Square, National Library, and Riding School.
The Sisi Museum tour consists of three parts: the Imperial Silver Collection, the Sisi Museum, and the Imperial Apartments.
The museum displays many items used by the Habsburg dynasty and Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), filled with a fairy-tale atmosphere.
We picked up Chinese audio guides at the entrance to the Sisi Museum. First, we visited the Imperial Silver Collection,
showcasing the imperial silverware of the Habsburg dynasty, with a wide variety of exquisite pieces!
After touring, we entered the Sisi Museum, which has six rooms as exhibition halls.
First, we saw the former residence of Franz Joseph and Sisi, with furniture restored to its original layout.
Entering a large door, we saw Sisi's iconic beautiful silhouette. Then a long, dark corridor led to the "Death" exhibition, depicting the shock across Europe when news of Sisi's assassination on September 10, 1898, broke. Here displayed a mask made from Sisi's face after death.
The "Sisi Legend" exhibition showcases various statues of Sisi, from life-size to miniature.
Sisi was once considered the most beautiful queen in Europe. She played a significant unofficial role in the negotiations for the Austro-Hungarian Compromise, and after her death, she was mourned by countless people.
Exhibitions on "Girlhood," "Court Life," and "Resistance" reveal Sisi's real life.
We saw her obsessive pursuit of beauty and thinness, her extreme passion for exercise, her fascination with classical poetry, and her rebellion against court etiquette.
Displayed here are Sisi's beauty instruments, health recipes, morning robes, gloves, parasols, folding fans, riding costumes, pre-wedding dress, and replicas of jewelry, among which the seven-star diamond headdress, ruby earrings, necklace, and dress are particularly striking.
Sisi loved to travel. In the "Resistance" hall, there is a replica of her luxurious carriage and her travel equipment.
In the final "Assassination" hall, we saw the newspaper from the day of Sisi's murder, government and royal documents, the assassin's weapon, and a plaster head model of the assassin.
After the visit, the gift shop at the exit sold Sisi-related items such as commemorative stamps, postcards, statues, books, and clothing.
Exiting through the northeastern Michael's Gate, we rested on a bench in Michaelerplatz, watching horse-drawn carriages carrying tourists. Some horses seemed tired and were drinking water to cool off.
Nearby is St. Michael's Church, small but tall.
Though compact, its interior is beautifully decorated.
We walked along the street facing Michaelerplatz and found a restaurant for lunch.
Then we went to the famous pedestrian shopping street, Graben, where statues and the largest Baroque plague column in Europe stand in the center.
The plague was one of the most severe pandemics in human history. It first arrived in Sicily in 1347 and quickly spread across Europe. Victims developed black spots, suffered painful deaths, and there was no cure, hence the name "Black Death." The plague struck Europe multiple times; the 1679 outbreak nearly killed two-thirds of Vienna's population.
To commemorate the victims of the plague, Emperor Leopold I ordered the construction of this plague column. The reliefs and inscriptions on the column constantly remind people not to forget the punishment God brought to the city.
Not far away, St. Peter's Church is one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in Vienna, a classic Baroque building facing southwest. Construction began in 1701 and took many years, completed in 1733. The exterior is dynamic, with a tall circular dome and two striking green-domed towers on the sides.
Stepping inside, the interior is extremely ornate and luxurious, almost dazzling, especially the dome frescoes that highlight the magnificent Baroque style.
We sat on a bench in the middle and noticed a program on each empty seat. Soon, an organ concert was about to begin. We were very lucky to listen to the deep, melodious sound of the organ.
We left after the concert ended. From the church, we walked northeast along the southeastern streets, and in less than ten minutes, we reached a small square.
In the center of the square is a statue fountain. On the northeast side, between two buildings connected by a bridge, is the famous large musical clock, the Anker Clock. It was designed by Art Nouveau painter Franz Matsch, created between 1911 and 1914, and installed on August 22, 1914.
The bridge spans 10 meters, is 7.5 meters high, and the clock itself is 4 meters in diameter. Every hour, a famous figure from Vienna's history appears along with matching music. These figures come from different periods, including Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, Charlemagne, Rudolf I, Prince Eugene, Franz I, Joseph Haydn, etc. At noon, all figures appear together.
In the center of the small square is a beautiful Baroque statue and fountain called the Joseph's Wedding Fountain. It was commissioned by Emperor Leopold I to commemorate his son Joseph's safe return from war and subsequent marriage to Marie.
The statue was originally made of wood, later made of stone and bronze, completed in 1732.
Continuing northeast from the street under the Anker Clock, we soon reached the Danube River.
There are many hotels, restaurants, cafés, and docks here. The elegant melody of Johann Strauss's waltz "The Blue Danube" has made this river famous worldwide. The Danube is the second-longest river in Europe, after the Volga.
It originates in southwestern Germany, flows from west to east through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, and other nine countries, finally emptying into the Black Sea at Sulina in eastern Romania. It is the river that flows through the most countries in the world, with a total length of 2,850 km. The upper course runs from the source to Vienna, the middle from Vienna to the Iron Gates, and the lower from the Iron Gates to the sea.
The Danube is an important waterway, with over 100 ports along its banks, serving as a major transport artery for the countries it flows through. It has played a crucial role in migration and political change in Central and Southeastern Europe. The castles and fortresses along its banks formed borders between states, while the waterway itself served as a commercial artery.
After a day of sightseeing, we felt tired. We took a taxi back to the hotel, rested for a while, then walked westward to Columbusplatz, a few hundred meters away. There is a Columbus shopping center there, and around the square are many restaurants, bars, and cafés.
We had dinner at a restaurant on the square, then bought some fruit and snacks at the supermarket in the basement of the shopping center before returning to the hotel to rest.
Day 13: Bratislava Day Trip
We purchased a day trip to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, on the Ctrip app. The weather was clear in the morning. The driver picked us up from the hotel on time. We transferred to a coach near the State Opera House. The distance from Vienna to Bratislava is about 70 km, and it took an hour to reach the parking lot under the SNP Bridge (New Bridge) in Bratislava's old town. The guide led us on the tour.
Bratislava, as the capital of Slovakia, has been an independent country only since the split of Czechoslovakia in 1993, making it one of the youngest capitals in Europe. However, as a former capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it is also an ancient city.
First, the guide took us to the Danube River to enjoy the river view and the New Bridge, which has a UFO observation deck. The bridge spans the Danube. Unlike the various old buildings in the city, the UFO observation deck is a ultra-modern structure with a futuristic feel, shaped like a UFO. The observation deck is 95 meters high; you can take a high-speed elevator from the base to the top, where you can watch the sunset and the charming night views of the city. At the top, there is also a souvenir shop and UFO restaurant.
The guide showed us the location of the port and handed us boat tickets. Today, we would return not by bus but by high-speed catamaran on the Danube back to Vienna.
We walked through the streets by the river to the Slovak National Theatre. The original classical theater was built in 1776, renovated between 1884 and 1886 by Viennese architects into the current Neoclassical style. It is the venue for the Slovak National Opera and Ballet.
The theatre consists of two parts: old and new. After visiting the new theatre,
we came to Hviezdoslavovo námestie (Hviezdoslav Square), a large square stretching west to the New Bridge. The square has many sculptures and fountains, surrounded by hotels, restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops.
At the eastern end of the square is the old National Theatre, with a "Ganymedes" fountain in front of it.
Then we walked along the stone streets of the old town to the Main Square, surrounded by embassies of various countries.
In the center of the square is the Roland Fountain, also called Maximilian Fountain, built during the reign of Maximilian II. It is one of Bratislava's landmarks. The Baroque fountain is not only ornamental but also served as a firefighting water source.
Designed by a master sculptor, it depicts a knight in heavy armor. Although the fountain has been restored many times, it remains popular and is considered an important landmark.
We entered the Old Town Hall, a complex of old buildings gradually built from the 14th century. It is the oldest town hall in Slovakia and one of the oldest surviving stone buildings in Bratislava. It has been renovated many times over the centuries but retains its original appearance.
In the middle is a high clock tower, which still tolls loudly on the hour, echoing over the old town. The Old Town Hall now serves as the Bratislava City Museum,
having gradually moved away from government use, it now exhibits the history and development of Bratislava, with artifacts from the Neolithic period to the 1930s.
We then came to the Primate's Palace (Primaciálny palác), a light pink building and one of Slovakia's most historically valuable monuments, built between 1778 and 1781. It was the residence of the Hungarian primate. The palace is adorned with 17th-century tapestries and has a Hall of Mirrors modeled after Versailles. In 1805, Napoleon and the Holy Roman Emperor signed the Treaty of Pressburg here, which sealed the end of the Holy Roman Empire.
The Church of the Annunciation (Františkánsky kostol) is a church with over 500 years of history, with a beautifully carved portal. Originally built in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the 17th century in early Baroque style.
The church is simple in style, not overly decorated, with white walls and ceiling, only the altar is more ornate.
Michael's Gate (Michalská brána) is a building in Bratislava and the only preserved medieval fortification in the city. It is one of the oldest buildings, built around 1300.
The current Baroque structure dates from 1758.
On the ground in front of the gate, there is a bronze circular marker showing the directions and distances to various world capitals.
St. Martin's Cathedral is located on the western edge of the old town, with Bratislava Castle on the hill across the street. It is the largest and best church in Bratislava, and one of the oldest.
Built in the 14th century, it is a classic Gothic church, with a high spire about 16 meters tall. The church has three equal naves, providing ample space and light for worshippers. The interior structure and decoration are worth seeing, with vaulted ceilings creating a solemn atmosphere and many exquisite sculptures.
St. Martin's Cathedral is famous for the coronations of 11 monarchs (10 kings and Queen Maria Theresa) and 8 queens. You can still imagine the grandeur from the church decorations.
We said goodbye to the guide at a statue on the street below St. Martin's Church and began free time. We climbed the hill from the east to reach the castle.
Bratislava Castle was originally a Roman castle, part of the Roman fortifications. By the 10th century, during the Hungarian Kingdom, a stone castle was built here as a military fortress.
In 1635, to defend against the Ottoman Empire, corner towers were added.
It once became a symbol of the city until a fire in 1811 reduced it to ruins; it was rebuilt after World War II.
Today, the oldest parts date from the 13th century, and the new parts were built by Maria Theresa for her beloved daughter Christina, a red-and-white, square building.
Due to the castle's elevated position, we climbed the outer fortifications to overlook the Danube and the entire city, enjoying beautiful scenery.
Inside the castle are the Historical Museum and the Museum of Music. We bought tickets at the entrance to enter.
The museum introduces the history of the castle's construction, destruction, and reconstruction.
It also preserves many artifacts from the ruins.
You can also climb the four corner towers.
We spent about two hours visiting before walking down from the northwest gate.
Passing through Michael's Gate, we returned to Michalská Street in the old town, a gathering place for locals and tourists.
The buildings on both sides are colorful, all very bright.
These buildings house many unique shops and restaurants, sometimes with street band performances.
We chose a restaurant and sat at a street-side table to enjoy local food and experience Bratislava's culture.
During the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the old town was once the seraglio of Empress Elisabeth's family. It is said that a corner ice cream and cake shop was frequently visited by Empress Elisabeth.
We also went to that shop and sat down for ice cream and Sacher torte.
The shop has portraits of Empress Elisabeth and her husband Franz Joseph.
At an intersection, there is a very interesting bronze statue of a man emerging from a manhole, lying on the ground, built in 1997, one of the old town's landmarks. His name is "Čumil" meaning "watcher" or "peeper." There are two interpretations: one is that he is a typical Communist-era worker who doesn't care about his job; the other is that he is peeping up women's skirts. Another legend says that if you want a wish to come true, you touch his head and tell him your secret, and it will come true, and he will keep the secret forever. Very amusing!
After that, we wandered around the city, admiring statues, and returned to Hviezdoslav Square. We sat on a bench, relaxing while watching the fountain.
There were many tourists in the square, but it wasn't noisy.
When it was time to board the boat, we reluctantly left the square and went to the riverside port to catch the high-speed catamaran back.
The boat was fast, splashing water, and the scenery along the Danube was beautiful. In about an hour, we arrived at the Vienna port.
After disembarking, we walked to the Schwedenplatz metro station across the street and took the U1 line to the main train station.
We experienced the Vienna metro. Generally, the stations are deep, the escalators are fast, and the carriages are relatively new. However, the metro station at the main train station is quite far from the exit; you need to walk a few hundred meters to get out, but it is convenient for connecting to trains. Vienna has five metro lines in operation, with one more under construction. Tickets are valid for all metro, bus, and tram services. Besides single tickets (€2.2), there are 24/48/72-hour tickets (€7.6/€13.30/€16.50) and an 8-day ticket (€38.40), starting from the first validation. For our group of four, it was simpler to just call a taxi.
We bought tickets at the counter for ÖBB's train from Vienna to Budapest, Hungary, confirming the date, train number, and seats. Different seat types cost different amounts.
We had dinner at a restaurant near Columbusplatz and then returned to the hotel to rest, ending a tiring but happy day.
Day 14: We woke up a bit later than usual. Sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we took a taxi to visit the Hundertwasserhaus (Kunst Haus Wien). Built in 1985, designed by Austrian artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. He spent over a year planning, funding, and constructing the building with his friends. He not only drew the design but also supervised the construction on site.
The Hundertwasserhaus looks like a child's watercolor painting. The facade is covered in large patches of bright colors: red, blue, yellow, purple, orange, overwhelming to the eye. The floor is paved with colorful square tiles, and the walls are painted in various colors. Some parts seem forgotten to be painted, leaving bare brick or plaster.
Between each color block, there are dark lines, but as if a child couldn't control the brush, all the lines are wavy, not a single straight one. The windows within the color blocks are at different heights, different sizes, and different shapes, as if randomly inserted.
Perhaps feeling a lack of green, Hundertwasser fully considered the needs of a small public community, striving to return to nature. On all platforms and terraces, trees and shrubs were planted. The whole building has about 250 trees, and the soil alone weighs 900 tons. Trees sprout from the roof, terraces, and windows.
The biggest features of the Hundertwasserhaus are: bright colors, rejection of straight lines, and return to nature. There is not a single right angle in the entire building. Hundertwasser completely abandoned the concept of "right angle" in traditional European architecture.
It is a "building where nature and humans coexist." Hundertwasser let his artistic imagination run wild, designing the building based on the principle of "tolerance of irregularity." There is hardly a flat piece of land in the building, and no room is a regular square. The colorful facade, trees reaching out from windows, wavy walls—all these represent a break from traditional concepts of architecture.
Some people admire this bold art, while others dismiss it as exaggerated. As early as when he drew the sketches and designs, the unconventional and alternative designer Hundertwasser had already incorporated all the elements the finished building should have: the lively atmosphere created by colors, the imagination and tension embodied by circles, spirals, and curves. Like the architect himself, Hundertwasser's architectural symbols are full of passion, persuasion, and the joy of life.
This row of odd apartments is nicknamed "bowling pin houses" by Viennese. They are divided by irregular lines yet oddly arranged in neat rows. Each floor is painted a different color, with windows of varying sizes. Strangest of all, the top floor has an Arabic-style dome, and the interior is also uneven.
Since people live inside, we could not go upstairs to visit but only wander in the shops below. Most residents are artists. Across the street is the Hundertwasser Art Center (Kunst Haus Wien), built in imitation of the interior of the apartment.
Inside are souvenir shops, cafés, and restaurants. We experienced the uneven, winding floors.
After having ice cream at an ice cream shop, we walked north along the street for about 400 meters to the Kunst Haus Wien.
Also designed by Hundertwasser, it is the only art center in the world with a permanent exhibition of his works. As one of Vienna's most popular peculiar buildings, the Kunst Haus Wien has almost no flat ground inside. The colorful facade, wavy walls, exaggerated lines, and ever-absent "right angles" make you feel the rhythm of life.
The art center mainly displays Hundertwasser's related designs. After viewing the introduction, you can gain a deeper understanding of the Hundertwasserhaus. In his works, only curves, brilliant colors, and abstraction appear, with environmental and ecological concepts incorporated. No two windows in his buildings are the same, and no wall is entirely one color. On the second floor, a screening room provides detailed information about Hundertwasser's design philosophy and the design, construction, and building details of the Hundertwasserhaus.
Hundertwasser hated right angles, calling them lifeless and unfriendly. He said that the straight lines of modern high-rises disgust him because they lack vitality and natural beauty, as there are no right angles in nature. Therefore, he opposed the use of right angles, at least on moral grounds.
The Hundertwasserhaus realized the ideal he proposed in his 1958 manifesto "Against Architectural Rationalism": "Architect, mason, and resident should be a trinity." In that brilliant manifesto, Hundertwasser said: "People should not live in cold, standardized buildings like chicken coops. This alienated architecture separates humans from nature and from each other. The main cause of contemporary architectural alienation is the division and separation of the roles of designer, builder, and resident.
As a result, all three lose organic connection with the building: most designers only consider their own ideas and so-called building rules; masons are only allowed to follow blueprints; residents can only live in completed buildings and cannot freely choose or change them."
Hundertwasser also said: "Straight lines are lifeless. A straight line is not a creative or imaginative line; it is a line that can be endlessly replicated and imitated—a line without personality.
Today, we live in a jungle of straight lines. In this world ruled by straight lines, everything seems tidy at first glance, but is actually chaotic."
When the Hundertwasserhaus was completed, Hundertwasser said excitedly: "This is a journey, a painter's journey of pouring dreams into a residence. Here, people enjoy full 'window rights' and a sense of freedom in life. There are no straight lines, no regularity, no rigid symmetry, no artificial harmony. Only uneven floors, tree trunks sprouting from roofs and walls, and non-artificial vegetation."
Besides introducing Hundertwasser's works, the art center also houses a large collection of classical artworks, including crafts, paintings, sculptures, etc., showcasing a variety of art forms, well worth seeing.
The collection is all-encompassing; anything related to art is collected here, including fine works from all fields. We spent about three hours carefully touring.
We went out to the museum's backyard and rested for a long time. In the evening, we took a taxi directly to Columbus Restaurant near Columbusplatz for dinner.
After dinner, we bought some fruit, snacks, and drinks at the supermarket in the Columbus shopping center and returned to the hotel to rest.
Day 15: Vienna to Budapest
Sunny morning. After breakfast, we checked out and dragged our suitcases to the train station opposite the hotel. We checked the platform information on the big screen, found the correct train, and boarded.
The journey from Vienna to Budapest took less than three hours. The sky became cloudier during the trip. We arrived at Budapest Keleti Railway Station around noon.
Budapest is the capital of Hungary, the country's main political, commercial, transport, economic center, and largest city. Budapest is also a famous ancient European city, located in the north-central part of the country, on both sides of the middle Danube. Originally two separate cities facing each other, after centuries of expansion, Buda and Óbuda on the left bank of the Danube and Pest on the right bank merged in 1873.
Keleti Station is a Baroque building, old but still maintaining its original layout, bearing traces of history with a rich artistic atmosphere. Above the main entrance are four exquisite statues, and on the walls beside the gate are two stone sculptures of human figures, lifelike.
The left statue is of Stephenson—the British inventor who built the world's first steam locomotive.
The right wall has a statue of James Watt—Fellow of the Royal Society, inventor of the steam engine.
On the roof is a beautiful group sculpture. On the south square of the station stands a monument. There are two ATMs on the platform; we withdrew some Hungarian forints (HUF) for cash reserve. 1 RMB is approximately 40 HUF.
Exiting the station and crossing the south square, the Baroque building opposite is the Budapest City Center Hotel, where we would stay for the next few days.
After leaving our luggage at the hotel's luggage storage, we had lunch at a restaurant called 'Huszar' in an alley across the street. The beer and food tasted similar to Vienna's. It's said that 'goulash' is a local specialty.
After lunch, we checked into the hotel and rested. In the evening, we walked about ten minutes along the street south of Keleti Station
and reached the 'Arena Plaza' shopping center, similar to Wanda Plaza in China, with many brand shops, restaurants, cafés, and supermarkets.
We wandered around, then had dinner at a local restaurant, bought some snacks and fruit at the supermarket, and walked back to the hotel.
Compared to Prague and Vienna, the buildings around the train station are older and dirtier.
On the way back, we even saw someone urinating in a small street, which instantly felt like being in India, haha.
But the grand station building opposite was illuminated magnificently, creating a stark contrast along the street.
The south square between the station building and the hotel has an underground metro station. This is the oldest electrified railway system in continental Europe and the second electrified metro line in the world after the London Underground. Budapest has four metro lines: yellow M1, red M2, blue M3, and green M4. The iconic yellow line (M1) was built in 1896 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002.
Metro ticket prices: single ticket 350 HUF, 10-trip ticket 3000 HUF, 24-hour ticket 1650 HUF, etc. There are also various tickets based on bus type, distance, days, and duration, which are quite complicated. We just called a taxi, which was simpler.
Back at the hotel, we looked from the window at the train station, its night scenery colorful and splendid!
Day 16: Morning sunny with some clouds. The hotel breakfast was more abundant than in Prague and Vienna, and the dining area was much larger. After breakfast, we took a taxi to Castle Hill (Várhegy) in Budapest.
Castle Hill is Budapest's oldest district, like a huge museum showcasing the city's development and Hungary's past. It is strategically located on a 167-meter hill by the Danube. Building a castle here was clearly for defense.
This narrow old city is 1,500 meters long and at most 500 meters wide. Surrounded by high walls on the slopes, only three gates allow entry. It was easy to defend and hard to attack. Castle Hill was first built in the 13th century. The Magyars, from the Ural Mountains, after centuries of nomadic migration, finally settled in Hungary in 896 AD.
The original royal palace was built on the high hill of Visegrád north of Budapest. After the Mongol invasion, King Béla IV decided in 1247 to build a castle on Castle Hill, which took decades to take shape—this was the earliest Budapest.
The 14th-15th centuries were the golden age of Castle Hill. This hill town, then called "Buda," became the political, economic, and cultural center of the country. In 1541, the Turks invaded Hungary, and Buda fell under Ottoman rule for 145 years. During this period, Castle Hill fell into disrepair and suffered fires, earthquakes, and wars. After Hungary regained independence, Castle Hill was renovated in the 18th-19th centuries, and the ruined palace was rebuilt in Baroque style.
By then, Buda had greatly expanded, and areas on the right bank of the Danube below the hill were also built up. In 1873, Buda merged with Pest on the east bank to form unified Budapest, and Castle Hill became just a part of the capital. The hill has four parallel main streets, with several cross streets and alleys connecting them. At regular intervals, there are larger or smaller squares, which were once marketplaces for residents. This layout reflects the characteristics of medieval European towns.
First, we visited the white Fisherman's Bastion (Halászbástya), built to commemorate the fishermen who defended the Danube in the past. It is a 100-meter-long white stone fortress built on the foundations of the medieval city walls. Construction began in 1895 and took six years.
This double-story grey-white structure is centered on a neo-Romanesque white tower, representing the ancestral tribes of Hungary together with several round towers. Towers are connected by arcades like a maze, resembling a castle from Disneyland from a distance.
We climbed the steps inside the wall. The top was quite spacious, with waist-high parapets on both sides. At intervals, there were round turrets like beacon towers, with pointed tops like white conical hats.
From the Fisherman's Bastion, we looked down on the Danube flowing quietly below, the Parliament Building on the opposite bank, various riverside buildings, the lush Margaret Island, and the distant hills, opening the heart and mind.
Behind the Fisherman's Bastion is a square with an equestrian statue of King Stephen I of Hungary, erected in 1906. The relief on the base depicts scenes from the king's life.
Behind the statue is Matthias Church (Mátyás-templom), over 700 years old. This Gothic building is exquisitely beautiful, a true work of art.
The church walls and corners are varied in shape, appearing harmonious and elegant. The vault is especially magnificent, made of colored glass mosaics forming beautiful patterns, shining in the sunlight.
On both sides of the church rise several tall spires, the tallest being cylindrical. The lower part is surrounded by five rows of tall pointed arch windows; above, it resembles a carved ivory tower; then it suddenly tapers, like a sword pointing to the sky.
The church was built between 1255 and 1269 and was continuously improved over the following century. In 1470, during the prosperous reign of King Matthias Corvinus, he ordered his royal coat of arms to be hung on the south gate of the church, giving it the name Matthias Church.
Over the centuries, this church has hosted various grand ceremonies, including royal coronations, weddings, and celebrations of military victories.
During the Turkish occupation, it was converted into a mosque, and after Buda was recaptured, it was restored as a Catholic church.
Its current appearance was fixed after a renovation between 1874 and 1896.
My son enthusiastically climbed the church tower to enjoy the surrounding views.
Behind the church is Szentháromság tér (Trinity Square), in the center of which is a Holy Trinity Column, built in the 18th century to commemorate the end of the plague.
From Trinity Square, we walked south on a downhill street, and soon saw a statue commemorating the War of Independence. Continuing along the cobblestone path, we reached an open square.
On the right side of the road was a large area of cleared building ruins fenced off. On the left behind a lawn was a modest grey-white low building with a red roof—this is the Sándor Palace, the official residence of the President of Hungary.
There were two sentry boxes at the west and south gates, with young guards standing at attention. Many tourists were taking photos.
On the balcony railing above the main gate hung two small flags: the Hungarian flag and the EU flag. Soon, the changing of the guard ceremony began, and onlookers gathered around the square in front of the palace to watch and take pictures.
The southern end of Castle Hill is entirely occupied by the massive Buda Castle (Budavári Palota). Looking at the unrepaired, bullet-riddled, dilapidated old gate, one can imagine the hardships this famous European palace has endured. The first palace was built here in the 13th century, but it was just a simple fortress inside walls. It was not until the 15th-16th centuries that it gradually became a Gothic palace with three courtyards. Later, wars and Turkish occupation severely damaged it. In 1715, the southernmost part of the palace near the Danube was first restored. Between 1749 and 1770, with the help of renowned Austrian architects, other parts of the palace were renovated.
After this huge project, the palace had a new look, but the architectural style had changed from medieval Gothic to Baroque, and the layout had changed significantly. From the establishment of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 19th century to 1905, it was further improved, becoming one of the most splendid palaces in Europe. Over the centuries, many Hungarian royals enjoyed luxurious lives here, including the famous Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), the last Hungarian king, and Regent Miklós Horthy. Unfortunately, World War II artillery almost reduced it to ruins again.
Reconstruction began in 1945. After decades of restoration, the palace reopened. Except for the massive scale of the palace not yet fully repaired, other parts of Castle Hill have basically regained their appearance from over 100 years ago, attracting tourists with their strong antique and national style.
The main building has been turned into the Hungarian National Gallery, displaying a large number of paintings and sculptures by famous Hungarian painters across three floors. The side buildings house the "Hungarian Workers' Movement Museum" and the "Budapest History Museum."
The largest library in the country, the National Széchényi Library, is also located here.
We bought tickets to enter the main building and toured for a long time. In the hall on the second floor, a tuner was tuning a piano. There would be a concert here in the afternoon, but we couldn't wait and left to continue touring.
The palace courtyard is also very grand. In the square in front of the palace facing the Danube stands a bronze equestrian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the military leader who recaptured Buda from the Turks in 1686.
The statue is lifelike, showing him with a spear and horse, majestic.
In the palace courtyard, there is a group fountain sculpture—the Matthias Fountain, which attracts many tourists. It depicts King Matthias hunting with his trusted men. Just from the many statues in the palace courtyard, it is easy to see that after the Middle Ages, Hungary was greatly influenced by the Renaissance, and its art reached a high level.
We went to the side buildings behind to see the architecture and city walls. The rear courtyard is also quite large, with a tall and imposing central gate, its reliefs simple and exquisite.
To the left of the palace, there was once a large royal garden, but now only an empty space covered with gravel remains. Between the royal garden and the palace gate, there are still large ruins of buildings.
After the visit, we bought tickets at the cable car station east of the Sándor Palace and took the cable car down. A one-way ticket was 1200 HUF, round trip 1800 HUF. The ride was very short, just a few minutes to Clark Ádám tér at the foot of Castle Hill, directly opposite the Chain Bridge.
We had lunch at a restaurant called 'Meat Boutique' on a riverside street. Literally 'Meat Boutique,' so we just ordered meat.
After lunch, we walked to the Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd), construction of which began in 1839 and was completed in 1849, with a total length of 380 meters. When completed, it was one of the largest span bridges in the world. The bridge is supported by chains, with pedestrian walkways on both sides of the road and vehicles in the middle.
Standing on both banks are two majestic stone triumphal arches, with beautifully carved decorations and layered edges, complemented by solid bases, quite imposing. Huge steel cables lead from the arches to suspend the bridge deck, outlining a strong curved profile.
On the Pest side, the bridge is guarded by two stone lions, with a stern and majestic appearance, guarding the bridge day and night like protectors. They have now become a symbol of the Chain Bridge.
Crossing the Chain Bridge, we enjoyed the enchanting scenery on both sides of Buda and Pest: the serene Danube, the magnificent and ornate Hungarian Parliament Building, the dreamy Fisherman's Bastion—it felt like stepping into a frozen historical painting.
On the Pest side of the Chain Bridge is Széchenyi István Square, surrounded by many palatial historical buildings. Crossing the square and walking east for about fifteen minutes, we arrived at St. Stephen's Basilica (Szent István-bazilika), the tallest building in Budapest.
Construction of the church began in 1850, was completed in 1905, and was rebuilt in 1949. It is the largest church in Budapest. The spire is 96 meters high. Inside, it is magnificent, and the hall can accommodate over 8,500 people.
The church houses the mummified right hand of King Stephen I. My son climbed 364 steps to the top of the church tower for a panoramic view of Budapest.
Exhausted, we sat at a café by the square in front of the basilica, drinking beverages and resting.
After my son finished, we walked from the small street south of the basilica in a northeast direction to the famous Andrássy út (formerly Republic Avenue), the most beautiful street in Budapest, a landmark boulevard dating back to 1872. On both sides are beautiful neo-Renaissance palaces and houses. In 1894, the first metro line in continental Europe was built from Vörösmarty tér underground along Andrássy út to the City Park.
Continuing northeast along the avenue for 3-4 hundred meters, the Hungarian State Opera House, an Italian Renaissance building, sits by the street. On the sides of the opera house's front are statues of the great native composer Franz Liszt and Robert Franz. The Budapest State Opera House is a typical example of a modern "historical monument" that was repeatedly destroyed in wars and rebuilt. In 1833, when this magnificent building was completed, 2,600 candles reflected in 160 mirrors, illuminating the entire hall in splendor. That same year, the famous Austrian composer Johann Strauss, author of "The Blue Danube," held a concert here. In 1849, the Austrian invaders ordered the building to be razed to the ground. On January 15, 1865, Hungary built a second opera house on the ruins, but it lost its classical appearance, becoming one of the most beautiful Romantic buildings in Hungarian history. However, it was destroyed again in World War II. After Hungary's liberation, a third opera house was built on the same site.
Now, this palace of art has been restored to its Romantic appearance. We had wanted to attend a concert here, but due to ongoing renovations both inside and outside the opera house, there were no performances recently.
We continued along Andrássy út for another 500 meters to a small square surrounded by many restaurants.
We found a restaurant called 'Fire Meat' and had grilled beef ribs, which were delicious, and the beer was good too.
After dinner, we called a taxi from the square and returned to the hotel to rest.
Day 17: Still sunny with some clouds. After breakfast, we took a taxi to the Hungarian National Museum.
The museum was founded in 1837 and officially completed in 1847. It is one of Hungary's most representative buildings and a beautiful example of Classical architecture. Its portico is lined with eight giant Corinthian columns supporting a pediment with elaborate sculptures, modeled after the west pediment of the Temple of Zeus. Giant chandeliers hang from the hall, and there are wide staircases, all impressive.
The museum is surrounded by gardens with statues of famous Hungarian scientists and writers. A statue of the 19th-century Hungarian poet János Arany sits in front of the museum.
The exhibits are divided into archaeology, medieval, numismatics, old paintings, and modern sections.
The collections are numerous and valuable, including king's crowns, swords, scepters, and exquisite carvings and embroidery.
Ancient nobles adorned with gold and jewels, and farmers eating and drinking at dinner scenes, show that Hungary was once one of Europe's richest countries.
The museum also displays Hungary's development since the Paleolithic period, including a Roman house with perfectly preserved mosaic floors, and a piano later given to Liszt that once belonged to Beethoven.
Among all the exhibits, the most representative and precious is Hungary's national treasure—the "Holy Crown of Stephen."
We finished our visit around noon. Exiting the museum, we walked south through Calvin Square.
Then we walked a short distance southwest to the Great Market Hall (Nagyvásárcsarnok) in Budapest, located near the Pest end of the Liberty Bridge. It is a magnificent neo-Gothic building, antique, over a hundred years old.
The Great Market Hall was built in 1897 and renovated in 1994. Inside, tradition and modernity blend. From the ground floor to the second floor, you can either take the antique wooden stairs or a modern elevator.
The stalls sell not only vegetables and food but also Hungarian folk handicrafts.
Many small stalls and bars are also a feature here. Many people drink large mugs of draft beer or small glasses of Hungary's famous "Tokaji" wine at the counters, along with traditional smoked meat, very leisurely, but too many tourists make it hard to find a seat.
We wandered around for a long time before leaving. Exiting the north gate of the market, we were in Fövám tér, a small square. To the south, the Liberty Bridge connects to Buda.
A street on the east side of the small square is not wide but very famous: Váci utca. It is Budapest's oldest commercial pedestrian street and one of the main pedestrian streets in the city center.
This street is lined with cafés, restaurants, and shops, most buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, elegant and luxurious, a great place for leisure shopping and experiencing local culture.
We had lunch at a restaurant called 'Rustico' on this street. Even in summer, sitting at a street-side table was very cool, and we enjoyed watching diverse tourists leisurely strolling.
The restaurant's interior decoration was distinctive, with many kitchen utensils, tools, and farm implements on the walls.
After lunch, we continued strolling on Váci utca. On the roadside was a small white church, St. Michael's.
We went inside to look around. It was empty, but a notice on the door announced an evening concert.
There was an art gallery by the roadside, and my son picked two small oil paintings as souvenirs.
Walking along Váci utca to Ferenciek tere square, we saw the Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd), built in memory of Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi), who was assassinated in 1898.
The main span is 290 meters long, total length 380 meters, located at the narrowest point of the Danube in Budapest. It is a steel cable suspension bridge, destroyed by the Germans in World War II. The current bridge was rebuilt in 1964. Because it is pure white and elegant, the Elizabeth Bridge is also known as the most graceful bridge over the Danube.
The other end of the Elizabeth Bridge connects to Gellért Hill, also called Liberty Hill, named after the Liberty Statue at the top. It is the highest point in central Budapest. From the Buda end of the Elizabeth Bridge, you can see steps winding up the hill.
We were too tired to climb the hill to see the sunset. We called a taxi from Ferenciek tere and returned to the hotel to rest.
We had dinner at a restaurant called 'Csalok Csárda' in an alley across from the hotel. It was run by a family of three: a warm, kind lady was the waitress and cashier, the uncle and son were the chef and helper. The food was good, and the beer was also nice!
Day 19: Three Towns on the Danube
We purchased a day trip to three small towns near Budapest on the Danube through the Ctrip app.
After breakfast, the driver arrived at the hotel on time. We transferred to a coach at a parking lot near the Chain Bridge.
We headed northwest to visit the three towns.
Scenery of countryside, forests, and rivers intertwined like a painting.
After about an hour, we arrived at the northern border town of Esztergom. The bus then crossed an iron bridge over the Danube into Slovak territory,
from where we viewed the Esztergom Basilica built on the opposite Castle Hill. From the perspective of Hungarian state and church, Esztergom played an important role from the beginning.
Grand Prince Géza built a residence on Castle Hill here in 971. After 1010, an archbishopric center began to be built here, with a cathedral and bishop's residence. From the end of the 11th century, it even became the seat of Hungary's first king, and rulers' palaces were built. However, in 1198, later kings gave all the palaces to the archbishop. Until the Turks captured the city in 1543, Esztergom was the center of the Hungarian Church.
In 1761, Empress Maria Theresa returned the castle to the archbishop. In the first half of the 19th century, the new Catholic center—the Basilica—was built.
After about half an hour, we reboarded the bus, crossed the large iron bridge, and returned to the parking lot near the Basilica.
The guide led us up from the crypt under the castle via an elevator to begin our tour of the Basilica.
Huge columns and a tall central dome appeared before us. Esztergom Basilica is the largest and highest-ranking church in the country.
The large painting above the main altar is a copy of a famous work by Titian, painted by Michelangelo Grigoletti.
The fresco of the Father above the central dome was painted by Ludwig Morlo. After the Turkish invasion, the chapel was converted into a mosque, statues were smashed, and reliefs were damaged. But the magnificent church itself survived the Turkish attacks and became the only church on Castle Hill.
János Bak restored over 1,600 pieces of sculpture fragments in the church. The central dome was newly built during the restoration. The statue of the king was made by Pietro de Vido in 1875.
Although the church has had many additions and expansions, the chapel inside remains the most prestigious work of Hungarian Renaissance architecture.
After exiting the main hall, we continued to tour around the church.
Near the basilica, we saw the ruins of a castle from the time of Prince Árpád. The grand prince's palace, built from the end of the 10th century and reinforced a century later, was demolished in 1180, and a large castle tower and bishop's residence wings were built here.
The carvings show the close relationship between Hungary and Germany and Italy at that time, but from 1190, French influence is also evident. The vault of the castle chapel and its proper interior decoration indicate French early Gothic influence. The sturdy side walls of the chapel are built like ear-shaped rooms, and the portraits of the evangelists inside were painted later in the mid-14th century.
Behind the church, overlooking the Danube and Slovakia opposite, with blue sky and white clouds, the scenery was boundless.
After that, we boarded the bus and drove along the Danube riverside road to Visegrád. About half an hour later, we arrived in Visegrád, a historic town.
