Flowing with the Current and Against It, Waves of the Danube: A Viking River Cruise Through Famous Cities and Towns (Part 1)
"There are two kinds of journeys: one is merely to reach the destination, so life is reduced to just two points—birth and death; the other is to focus on the scenery and experiences along the way, and such a life will be rich."
— Milan Kundera
Europe's beauty takes many forms, and there are many ways to explore this land. This time, I divided the trip into two parts: the first part was still our beloved self-driving tour, and the second part would step onto European soil again with Viking River Cruises, following the winding Danube deep into the hinterland to pick up the beauty left in those stunning towns and deep valleys.
This "cruise" was different from the usual ones. Compared to the sea cruises I had taken in Spain and Italy, this was a river cruise. There were great differences in scale, facilities, and activities. When most people hear "cruise," they immediately think of huge ocean liners with thousands of people on board. But this cruise ship was small and exquisite, only three decks high, traveling through Eastern and Western European countries such as Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, the Czech Republic, and Germany, along this most poetic and serene river to witness the stories of Europe.
I. Our trip was divided into three parts: fly from Beijing to Prague, pick up a rental car at the airport, drive south for five days to reach Budapest, Hungary (return the car at a different location); board the Viking River Cruise and start an 11-day Danube journey, ending in Passau, Germany, then take the cruise company's bus to Prague to conclude the entire cruise; roam freely in Prague for two days, then fly back to Beijing. The specific itinerary is as follows:
DAY 1: Beijing → Prague, Czech Republic (airport) → Kutná Hora → Litomyšl → Olomouc
DAY 2: Olomouc → Kroměříž → České Budějovice (CB Town)
DAY 3: České Budějovice (CB Town) → Hluboká (White Castle) → Enter Austria → Hallstatt
DAY 4: Hallstatt, Austria → Melk Abbey → Stay overnight in Slovakia (Belá)
DAY 5: Belá, Slovakia → Štúrovo → Enter Hungary at Esztergom → Budapest (return car and board Viking River Cruise)
II. Cruise route map:
DAY 1: Budapest (Hungary) – Guest check-in day.
DAY 2: Budapest (Hungary) – Full day city tour.
DAY 3: Bratislava (Slovakia) – Full day city tour.
DAY 4: Vienna (Austria) – Full day city tour, evening concert at the opera house.
DAY 5: Cruise through the Wachau Valley, visit Göttweig Abbey, wine tasting.
DAY 6: Český Krumlov (CK Town, Czech Republic) – Evening stop at Linz (Germany) dock, free time ashore.
DAY 7: Passau (Germany) – Full day city tour.
DAY 8: Passau, Germany → Prague, Czech Republic
III. Roam freely in Prague for two days, then fly back to Beijing.
Czech Republic, this former socialist country, with Prague as a holy land for literary youth and Bohemian style beloved by fashionistas. A brief glimpse years ago was unforgettable, and stepping onto this long-cherished land again still stirred some excitement.
We arrived at Prague International Airport at 6 AM, and the car rental company opened at 8. We had a coffee at the airport to wake up and plan the day's itinerary, full of joy.
At 8, when the rental office opened, we were the first to pick up the car smoothly—a brand-new latest model of Škoda, a classic Czech national brand. The odometer showed only 1,500 kilometers, spotless inside and out!
Apart from the capital Prague, the highlights of the Czech Republic are hidden in medieval towns, some close and some far apart. To connect them better, self-driving is the best way. Let's go and start exploring the beauty along the way!
The weather wasn't great; a light drizzle didn't stop. We headed out of the city south about 72 kilometers to Kutná Hora, a beautiful small town listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. I had visited it five years ago during a European self-driving trip, but I couldn't bear to rush past it. I got out to stroll around, revisiting old memories.
Kutná Hora is located in central Bohemia. It was founded in the early 13th century after the discovery of silver mines in Kutná Mountain. The town grew with the silver mining industry and became famous across Europe. Many architectural masterpieces symbolizing the city's prosperity and splendor were built, and it once flourished as a royal city.
The wealth from silver mining made the emerging town of Kutná Hora suddenly rich. The silver mined here was mainly used to mint coins for European countries, and the town gradually developed into the second-largest city of the Kingdom of Bohemia, where the king once resided.
Kutná Hora, the former silver city, was one of the richest cities in Europe. Here you can admire architecture from different periods and styles. Among the enduring buildings, the glory of churches always stands out. The Cathedral of St. Barbara, listed as a World Heritage site, is undoubtedly the most sacred place in the city.
I had been here a few years ago, but it was too late, and the church was already closed, so I didn't go inside. This time, I had to make up for that regret.
Walking up the straight uphill street in front of the church (Barborská Street), you can see the unique spire of St. Barbara's Cathedral from afar.
On the left side of the street is a low wall with stone statues of saints, and on the right is the Jesuit College.
Entering the church and looking up, the vaulted ceiling is decorated with floral patterns and various family crests, like a kaleidoscope from childhood—exquisite and mysterious, not overly magnificent but elegant and dignified.
The church contains an altar and eight radiating chapels, along with a choir. Uniquely, this is a church themed around silver mining, preserving precious original medieval frescoes depicting silver mining, coin minting, and silverware crafting, recording the glorious years of this small town.
A few dazzling rays of sunlight slanted through the windows. Finally, the sky cleared. God seemed to feel my devout heart, wanting to engrave the beauty of this moment deep into my soul. Grateful!
The magnificent large stained glass windows are a highlight of this church. They are not made of glass mosaic in the usual way but painted directly with oil paint on glass, making the colors more vivid, the lines more delicate and soft, and the content richer and more lively.
The three tall, vertically elongated spire roofs, the huge net-like ribbed beams, and the elaborately decorated rose windows, with 27 decorative spires on both sides atop flying buttresses, bring out its extraordinary grandeur, deep beauty, eeriness, and fantasy—a very unique and beautiful cathedral.
St. Barbara's Cathedral took five hundred years to complete. Looking at every detail, you feel the infinite courage and persistence shown by generations of builders. Five hundred years of construction and perseverance convey the power of faith. In terms of architectural aesthetics, some say St. Barbara's Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, like a nocturne by Chopin.
Another special feature of this church is that it was not funded by the church but built with funds raised by miners themselves. The frescoes and stained glass windows depict stories from the Bible related to miners' deeds, dedicated to the patron saint of miners—St. Barbara. It is a church with a miner theme.
Legend has it that Barbara was once an ordinary nurse in the church. She took meticulous care of miners, who were deeply grateful. After her death, the church canonized her as a saint, and she became the patron saint of miners. The church does not enshrine the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus; the topmost statue is St. Barbara. Historically, churches depicted saints, nobles, and biblical figures—the church was an inaccessible upper-class institution. Laborers and ordinary people had no place in it, let alone being depicted in church frescoes. So this is a church of the common people.
St. Barbara is the patron saint of silver mines, and the church is a gift to her. Therefore, miners were able to be elevated to a respectable place. The reason this magnificent building is classic yet not luxurious lies in the difference between the nobility and the common people.
Next to the church, there is a great viewing platform offering a panoramic view of the entire town. Before it became the "Silver City," there were only a few households here, mainly growing grapes for wine. The undisturbed, peaceful scenery gently but powerfully strikes your visual nerves. What meets the eye is a richly layered, colorful medieval painting.
No matter how the outside world changes, this place remains the same. On the viewing platform, a couple in wedding attire was taking photos. Standing in front of the gods in their pure white wedding dresses, this moment must be unforgettable for them. In my heart, I silently wished that their love would always stay the same.
Speaking of this town's former glory, it rose with silver and declined with silver. In the late 13th century, its development was at its peak, but it didn't last long. As the silver mines gradually depleted, the town began to wane. However, during its more than two hundred years of prosperity, people had built a medieval bustling city with silver. When prosperity faded, the splendid buildings still bear witness to those sigh-worthy pasts.
After the silver mines dried up, Kutná Hora lost its prosperity, but the historical relics of the old town were well preserved for later generations to explore its former glory.
It was time to eat. We found a small Italian restaurant in the central square with many customers.
The pasta was quite well made.
After eating and drinking our fill, we continued on to the next World Heritage destination: Litomyšl Castle, known for its Renaissance architecture. The road was mostly two-lane country roads.
Litomyšl Castle is located in the town of Litomyšl, a small town in central Czech Republic.
The town is small and delicate, not breathtakingly beautiful, but famous for one castle and one person. The author of the timeless symphonic poem "Vltava" — Bedřich Smetana, the "soul of Czech music" — was born here.
This great musician completed this immortal masterpiece in world music history while deaf. It incorporates the emotions and will of the Czech nation and has become a symbol of the Czech nation. The beautiful melody of "Vltava" has deeply touched people's hearts. Litomyšl holds the "Smetana Music Festival" every year to commemorate this great musician.
The town's landmark is Litomyšl Castle, a Renaissance aristocratic residence. The cultural significance of Litomyšl transcends borders, and it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1999. Once a noble palace, it is now state property.
The Czech Republic issued stamps for Litomyšl Castle twice, in 1958 and 2002.
This UNESCO-listed castle was built in the late 10th century and is a typical Italian Renaissance style, with large arcades, Baroque decorations, and classical murals. It is grand, magnificent, and exquisite, known as "a pearl of architecture."
We arrived a bit late, so we couldn't enter the castle interior, only strolling in the courtyard.
This arcaded noble residence and its ancillary buildings have been preserved intact. This Renaissance arcade style (loggia) originated in Italy and flourished in central Europe in the 16th century. In short, Litomyšl Castle fully demonstrates the architectural style that emerged during the European Renaissance in a special way.
Combining classical and modern art, modern sculptures are placed in the garden.
The sgraffito decoration on the castle walls, the "envelope" bricks painted with colorful patterns, the entire castle covers a very large area, much like a park with ancient trees and lush grass, but I prefer the French garden of the castle. The castle is an outstanding example of Renaissance architecture in Bohemia, worth spending some time visiting.
The whole town has a strong religious atmosphere.
The elongated main square is actually a long street in the old town center, surrounded by typical Renaissance colorful arcaded houses. The square was built along the ancient trade route along the river at the foot of the castle, stretching nearly 500 meters, with small, exquisite shops and cafes.
At the end of the square stands a statue of the composer Smetana.
A good day starts with breakfast, but today's weather was discouraging. When I opened the curtains, it was gray and drizzly. Last night we stayed at a small hotel between Litomyšl and Olomouc, cozy and warm, with a good breakfast.
After quickly finishing a large plate, we headed to Olomouc, a city in eastern Czech Republic on the Morava River, known as the "Baroque Rose."
Entering Olomouc, the first impression was "low-key." There is no hustle, bustle, or crowding like in other cities. Although it has the second-largest cultural heritage in the Czech Republic after Prague, there are not many foreign tourists.
We parked the car and headed to the central square. After a short walk, we discovered a large square courtyard that seemed to be a government institution. In one corner of the courtyard stood a very old church with exquisitely carved wooden doors. According to the sign, it was also a protected historical monument.
In the center of the courtyard were many fresh fruits and vegetables, with prices clearly marked. No one was watching the stall; it was all on an honor system. People took what they needed and put money into an empty basket next to it, completing the transaction.
We followed the map to find the city's most important landmark: the 35-meter-high "Holy Trinity Column," described by UNESCO as "one of the most outstanding examples of the peak of Central European Baroque art."
From afar, we saw a slender column in a small square. Excitedly, we approached and took photos from all angles.
After calming down and reading the sign, we realized this was the Marian Column (Mariánský sloup) of Olomouc. It was not the Holy Trinity Column, and this square was not the main square but a small square (Dolní náměstí). European cities are like that—squares within squares, confusing!
This was also a Baroque column, topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary and surrounded at the base by eight saints.
Olomouc also boasts several Baroque fountains with themes from Greek and Roman mythology. In 2002, a modern fountain with a peculiar turtle joined the group, making the city's mythology more vivid.
Suddenly, a huge dark cloud loomed overhead, threatening a heavy downpour. We quickly ducked into a cake shop on the square.
The desserts were exquisitely cute, making it hard to take a bite. After much deliberation, I ordered a more conventional raspberry cake. It wasn't too sweet, melted in the mouth, and was absolutely delicious! Thank goodness for the rain; otherwise, I wouldn't have taken the time to sit down and quietly watch the rainy scene outside, sipping a fragrant coffee and savoring a delightful dessert. Everything was perfectly arranged!
Now, a little digression. Let's talk about Czech prices (excluding bustling Prague, of course). A preview: dinner was in another city not far away—Kroměříž. At the city's top-ranked restaurant, we ordered the famous local garlic soup, roasted pork neck, and a steak, totaling 26 euros. As for the taste, even I, a devoted fan of Chinese cuisine, had to give two thumbs up. As for this cake shop we ducked into, two coffees and a cake cost 6 euros—a very fair price. After that large piece of cake, I had no face to think about lunch. I love this country! It's a breath of fresh air in the eurozone! Friends, come and spend in the Czech Republic! I guarantee you won't hesitate to spend money!
The rain stopped. Passing through the small street of the square, we arrived at the heart of the old town—Republic Square (náměstí Republiky), in the center of which stands a building combining Gothic and Renaissance styles: Olomouc Town Hall (Olomoucká Radnice).
From afar, we saw a huge turtle lying on the ground, with two little kids studying it from all angles to see if it was alive. Haha!
On the north wall of the town hall, next to the clock tower, is a world-famous astronomical clock. It was first mentioned in documents in the 15th century and is one of the few astronomical clocks in the world that embodies the heliocentric theory. Every hour, when the clock chimes, the astronomical clock seems to come alive: twelve lifelike little figures emerge one by one to strike the bell. It was heavily damaged in World War II and has been restored many times.
What we see now was restored during the socialist era in the Czech Republic, reflecting socialist ideology. The mosaic on the clock face is also in the socialist realist style popular at that time. Originally, the figures that appeared at the hour were the twelve saints from the Bible. Now, they are replaced by laborers representing the proletariat and working class, who come out to dance and perform—very cute.
The upper dial of the astronomical clock represents the celestial sphere and shows the constellations, the sun, Earth, planets, and the twelve zodiac signs. The calendar at the bottom of the clock indicates the unique Czech "name days." In the Czech Republic, besides national holidays, each day of the year corresponds to a person's name. People celebrate their "name day" on the date matching their name. Name days are as important as birthdays and are a good opportunity to exchange gifts. The red lines on the calendar indicate important days of the communist regime, such as the birthdays of Stalin and Klement Gottwald, the leader of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia.
Towering over the square is the pride of the people of Olomouc: the Holy Trinity Column, the largest Baroque sculptural group in the Czech Republic. Built between 1716 and 1754, it is 35 meters high and holds significant historical and artistic value.
It was erected by the people in the 18th century to commemorate the end of the Black Death and has since become a symbol of the city. The ornate exterior and natural beauty of the Holy Trinity Column are worthy of its World Heritage status.
The design of the Holy Trinity Column is three-tiered. At the top are the gilded figures of the Holy Trinity. On the middle, ten-meter-high stone pillar hangs a group sculpture of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The golden Virgin Mary is held aloft by two winged angels, bridging the divine and the earthly. The decoration is elaborate; each tier is surrounded by six standing stone statues of saints. Below the base is a seven-step pedestal.
You can climb up from the base to the first level, where through an archway there is a small chapel. In 1754, when the column was completed, a grand Catholic thanksgiving ceremony was held in the square. Maria Theresa, the only queen of the Habsburg dynasty and de facto ruler of the European continent at that time, along with her husband, Francis I, Holy Roman Emperor, personally attended and entered the small chapel beneath the column for the first consecration.
Traveling through large and small European cities, such scenes are not unfamiliar: people commemorate people and things, from inconspicuous markers to monuments for various figures and events. Of course, this is all viewed with a settled perspective, but everything has its own trajectory of occurrence and development.
Exquisite buildings came into view one after another. The area is full of cafes, ice cream shops, and restaurants, with many streets leading in all directions. Following the map through a small street, we entered the old town.
The old town of Olomouc is scattered with centuries-old ancient buildings, including Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo styles—a comprehensive collection of European architectural styles, as if walking through a huge architectural museum.
With reverence for these ancient buildings, we strolled along the not-too-busy streets, appreciating the beauty of European architecture. Without deliberately searching, history met the eye everywhere.
The Czech Republic is not just Prague; it also has Olomouc, a city with not only history but also a future. The ancient Olomouc is also known as a "university town," with the highest density of university students in Central Europe—about 25,000 students (the city's permanent population is only about 100,000). Palacký University, founded in the 16th century, is the second-oldest university in the Czech Republic and is known as the "Czech Oxford." University buildings are embedded in every corner of the city, integrated with residential buildings. So university students are everywhere, making this ancient city vibrant.
Leisurely living is the main theme of all European countries. Long, narrow streets form a faded medieval painting, with old houses on both sides bearing the traces of time, and colorful trams moving through the painting.
Online information about Olomouc is extremely limited. Many Chinese visitors to the Czech Republic seem not to have set foot here. Under the Wikipedia entry for Olomouc, there is this sentence: "Despite Olomouc's charm, fortunately, it has not been discovered and swarmed (or even overrun) by tourists like Prague, Český Krumlov, and Karlovy Vary."
Olomouc also has a very strong religious atmosphere. It became a diocese in 1063 and was elevated to an archdiocese in 1777. It was once one of the two Catholic archdioceses in the Czech Republic. St. Wenceslas Cathedral is a Neo-Gothic cathedral built in 1107, the city's most outstanding religious building. Its bell tower is 100.65 meters high, the fourth-tallest building in the Czech Republic.
The cathedral has three towers. It is named after Wenceslaus I, Duke of Bohemia. The exterior is elaborately carved. Empress Elisabeth's husband, Franz Joseph I, was crowned Emperor of Austria here and reigned for 68 years. The cathedral became famous far and wide, and many people come to worship here.
Blessed Teresa of Calcutta, a Nobel Peace Prize laureate, also visited here.
Next to the cathedral is the Archdiocesan Museum of Olomouc, which collects religious artworks from the 12th to 18th centuries and is part of the Olomouc Museum of Art. It was once the palace where the archbishop of Moravia lived. Half of it is now a museum, while the other half is still used for office work.
Little kids were listening to the teacher telling stories about the past.
Peaceful and unique—that's the impression Olomouc left on me. Without much adornment or hustle, it is more about an elegant and calm detachment from worldly affairs. Although it is not the most popular tourist city in the Czech Republic, it is a city that should not be forgotten.
Continuing on, we sped across the vast plains of Bohemia. The feeling of self-driving was so wonderful, my thoughts drifting with the wind. Suddenly I remembered the movie and the song "Bohemian Rhapsody." Bohemian style seems complex and disorderly but is actually natural; unconventional, subverting tradition, romantic, folk, diverse—encountering thrilling excitement in confusion, releasing the soul through sensory impact. It is not about being alternative or unique; this is the freedom and romance nurtured by the black soil of Bohemia.
Passing by a tranquil small village with a beautiful church.
The village gradually faded away, leaving only the red spire of the church. A gentle breeze blew, swaying the yellow flowers by the roadside, a flowing gold, vast and mighty like waves sweeping across the land—a green sea of golden waves rolling forward, surging and falling. The intoxicating fragrance and intense colors blended into a wonderful attraction, making me rush toward it crazily...
It was now around three or four in the afternoon. The cake from the morning had long been digested, and I urgently needed to replenish energy. Checking the map, I found we had just passed a city called Kroměříž. But my stomach was protesting, so we turned the car around and sped toward the small town.
The central square of Kroměříž is not large, easily measured in a few steps. The top-ranked restaurant in the city, mentioned earlier, was right on the square. The total bill was 26 euros—awesome!
After dinner, I checked my phone and got a feel for the area. I discovered that Kroměříž has a beautiful castle and garden that are also a World Heritage site, right next to the square.
Passing through this gate, we entered the castle. This Baroque castle garden was the summer palace of the archbishop of Olomouc. In the less sunny autumn dusk, it looked a bit bleak but still elegant, with a lazy and luxurious feel. Even a fallen aristocrat is still an aristocrat.
We hurriedly bid farewell to this little-known town and headed south. That night, we stayed in České Budějovice, the capital of the South Bohemian Region, also known as "CB Town" among Chinese. The golden sunlight broke through the thick clouds, shining through the swaying trees by the roadside, casting dappled shadows on the undulating road. Hello sunshine, long time no see!
Speaking of the Czech Republic, it is always closely associated with Bohemia. And why does Bohemian style always lead the fashion world? Where exactly is this so-called Bohemia?
The word "Bohemia" comes from Germanic languages, an ancient Central European place name. Geographically, it broadly refers to the entire region that was formerly Czechoslovakia. Historically, the Czech Republic was a multi-ethnic country and also a gathering place for the Roma (Gypsies). Today, Bohemia borders Germany to the west, Poland to the north, the historic region of Moravia to the east, and Austria to the south. It covers two-thirds of the Czech Republic's land area, with about 6 million of the country's 10.3 million residents living in Bohemia.
The uninhibited Roma people, free, rebellious, and untamed, formed a life philosophy of pursuing freedom and harmonious coexistence during their wandering journeys—a lifestyle that defies tradition.
Bohemian style is synonymous with romance, freedom, and passion. If you can pull off Bohemian style, you must be a free-spirited person at heart.
By the time we arrived in České Budějovice, it was completely dark. Our hotel for the night (the picture above is where we slept) was at the entrance of the old town. After dropping off our luggage, we began a night exploration.
Entering the small town, we saw an ancient church that looked even more mysterious and solemn under the dim yellow lights.
České Budějovice, located in the center of the South Bohemian Basin, is not well known to many, but mentioning Budweiser beer is almost a household name. "Budweis" is the German transliteration of "Budějovice." The name is a bit of a mouthful, so Chinese people prefer to call it "Budweiser Town" or "CB Town."
The Czech Republic is a major beer producer and seller in the world. Among the many beers, the most famous are Budweiser and Pilsner. The former became famous because it was exclusively supplied to the royal family 500 years ago; the latter is one of the oldest breweries in the world. This is the authentic birthplace of Budweiser beer, and it is also a beautiful, quiet, and innocent little town.
České Budějovice, the capital of South Bohemia, is also an ancient World Heritage city with a history of several hundred years. The small town boasts two "mosts":
1. A huge rectangular square, a 133-meter square on each side, called Přemysl Otakar II Square, named after the Czech king. It is the largest square in the country. "Largest" is relative to a small country like the Czech Republic; compared to China, any prefecture-level city square can match it.
2. In the center of the square is a huge Baroque fountain over 20 meters high, the tallest fountain in the Czech Republic, named Samson's Fountain, inspired by the biblical story of Samson killing a lion with his bare hands, with high artistic value.
The buildings around the square are diverse in style, gorgeous and exquisite, with colorful facades, blending Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic elements. Bohemian style is not only reflected in today's fashion design but also in the countless architectural wonders within the Czech Republic's borders.
On the west side of the square is the town hall, with four statues on the gable representing justice, courage, wisdom, and diligence. The imposing tower soars into the sky.
To the northeast of the square is the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. Next to it is a famous clock tower built in the 16th century, 72 meters high, entirely dark gray, called the "Black Tower," a landmark of the small town. A golden clock face hangs on the outer wall. Climbing 225 steps to the top offers a panoramic view of the whole city. Besides telling time, the Black Tower also served as a watchtower for fires in the city.
A city's character is often revealed in its corners and details. We ventured into the alleys to find the little details that decorate the city.
By the way, walking through these winding alleys late at night, I didn't feel any lack of safety. Strangers passing by always smiled at us.
Let's take a standard photo of our hotel.
The small town is located at the confluence of the Vltava and Malše rivers. The Czech mother river, the Vltava, winds around the old town, adding to its beauty.
Now, let's talk about the century-old unresolved feud over Budweiser beer. Even someone like me, who never drinks alcohol, knows that Budweiser is an American brand, but I didn't know that the real birthplace is here.
As mentioned earlier, medieval Czech was a multi-ethnic melting pot. Besides the majority Slavic peoples, there was also a deep-rooted Germanic population. So this city has a Germanic name, "Budweis." It became famous for producing beer with a unique taste and creamy foam, and the locals proudly called their home-brewed beer "Budweiser," the city's most proud name.
The founder of American Budweiser often came here for business in the late 19th century and became obsessed with the beer. He took the Bohemian recipe back to the United States, started production there, and copied the name "Budweiser," turning it into the world's number one beer brand. This led to the century-long trademark dispute over Budweiser. Today, American Budweiser cannot be sold in Europe; only Czech Budweiser is sold in Europe. American Budweiser once tried to buy the real Czech Budweiser, almost as if to make amends, but the Czech government refused.
For Czechs, Czech Budweiser goes far beyond the meaning of beer itself. For them, it is part of Czech history and culture, representing national pride. The Czechs now add four words to their Budweiser: "The Original Budweiser."
Like all medieval city planning, this small town has the town hall, main church, and clock tower built around the square, which is still a focus for the citizens. Today, the center of the square is usually used as a parking lot, but during markets or events, it becomes a gathering place.
The ground floors of the surrounding buildings have arched corridors similar to the "qilou" in Fujian and Guangdong, with many shops, cafes, and ubiquitous taverns. If you are tired of touristy, commercial cities, come to České Budějovice to experience the most authentic Bohemian culture and sit down to savor the century-old glory of this city.
The South Bohemian region of the Czech Republic has many medieval castles. Today's important itinerary, and the most anticipated castle in the south on this trip, was the most beautiful castle in the Czech Republic—Hluboká Castle, also known as "White Castle" or "White Stag Castle."
Nine kilometers north of České Budějovice lies a lakeside town called Hluboká, nestled among mountains and water. The castle sits on a small hill. We parked in the town's public lot and walked.
Next to the parking lot was a beautifully colored and elegantly shaped church.
Following the relatively gentle winding path up the hill, the view opened up. At a turn, a Bohemian painting unfolded before our eyes: the Vltava River flowed quietly at the foot of the mountain. Gradually, dense trees replaced roadside houses, pedestrians became fewer, and we walked on thick fallen leaves. Rounding the next bend, the white castle appeared dreamily in front of us.
This is an elegant manor-style castle, looking delicate and light. It was originally built in the 13th century as a private residence of the Bohemian king. In the 16th century, the German noble family Schwarzenberg took over the castle and, over the following centuries, used their vast wealth to renovate, decorate, and adorn it. The castle was originally Gothic and was later remodeled into Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical styles. In the 19th century, the lady of the castle returned from England and remodeled it into the current Neo-Gothic style, imitating Windsor Castle in England. After World War II, the castle was nationalized and remains so today, becoming a prominent geographic symbol in the heart of the Czech Republic.
Approaching the main gate, the first thing we saw was this intricately patterned copper crest, the coat of arms of the Schwarzenberg family, the second owners of the castle. Next to it was a peculiar doorknob, carved with a fierce eagle pecking at a person's eye. It is said to represent the Schwarzenberg family accompanying the king to battle and defeating the Turks—the person being pecked is the captured Turk. Cruel, fierce, yet showcasing the castle owner's valor.
This is a defensive castle. The highest watchtower is a hexagonal prism; the front watchtower is a square with battlements for soldiers to observe and shoot. The castle walls are all made of thick stone blocks, connecting turrets of different sizes and heights, the highest being the eight-story bell tower. The castle has 141 rooms, of which only about thirty are open to the public; photography is not allowed inside the rooms.
Passing through the heavy copper gate, I was truly amazed. Upright, perfect stag heads were embedded high in the walls, like proud knights looking down on future subjects. It is said that the Schwarzenberg family often hunted, and the stag heads from their prey were used to decorate the castle. Each stag head is paired with a different coat of arms, representing different branches of the Schwarzenberg family. Below the crest are engraved the names of each brave warrior in the family—this is also why the castle is called "White Stag Castle."
The interior of the castle is extremely luxurious and sumptuous, with a rich collection. The rooms feature Chinese porcelain, 16th-century tiles, Western masterpieces, Persian carpets, and various precious ornaments and items. The largest room in the castle is the library, displaying and collecting over 12,000 ancient books in five languages, many with sheepskin covers, extremely precious.
At every corner, there were fierce little beasts baring their teeth, covered in mottled moss, as if about to leap out from the dormant years. I wondered if this was also meant to ward off evil spirits.
The castle is pure white and beautiful. Over 700 years, it has experienced many wars and vicissitudes, with no romantic imagination of princes and princesses. Instead, among the mighty stag antlers, one sees battlefields, slaughter, triumphant revelry, and also the elegy of a dead end.
Stepping to the notes of medieval music, we entered a Bohemian painting. Bidding farewell to the most beautiful castle, we rushed to the next destination. This arrangement was a bit hasty and went against our original intention of freedom and spontaneity, but after learning more, I couldn't help myself. This small country has one town and one castle, each castle embodying a touching past. I admit I was greedy—I didn't want to miss any wonderful sight. The Czech towns did not disappoint. Even on the rainy road, the scenery outside the window was still intoxicating.
Farewell to the most beautiful castle in the Czech Republic. Finally, the sky showed a smiling face, with blue sky and white clouds. The most brilliant colors were right before our eyes. We pressed the accelerator and crossed the border into Austria's Salzkammergut region.
The Salzkammergut region is full of overlapping mountains and dotted lakes. We passed by Traunsee Lake. Having not seen clear sky and water for several days, even though I knew the more beautiful sights were ahead, I couldn't resist stopping to take a few photos.
It was a rare good day. Even the little kid was so excited he did somersaults—very agile, haha!
This area was once a royal territory. Since the Middle Ages, it has been a favorite vacation and hunting ground for princes and nobles. The movies "Sissi" and "The Sound of Music" were both filmed here.
The lake water is clear and deep blue, all from the melting snow of the Alps. The water quality is excellent and drinkable directly. The English poet Coleridge said, "Water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to drink." Here, at least, the water is drinkable.
The water of Attersee shows different colors from near to far. Near the shore, it transitions from clear transparency to emerald green. Sitting by the lake, with the breeze blowing, everything melts away. The overwhelming beauty of the lake and mountains silently surrounds you.
Someone once said that a small town of a thousand people can amaze the world, like a postcard from heaven, a textbook for European town scenery. It is the classic representative of Austrian tourism. Today's ultimate goal: one lake, one town, one paradise—Hallstatt.
Hallstatt Lake, deep in the mountains, is the most spiritual of the lakes in the Salzkammergut region. Surrounded by mountains over 3,000 meters high, the peaks form a natural barrier for the lake, giving it an otherworldly ethereal quality. The lakeside town of Hallstatt stands between these towering green mountains and the jewel-like lake. It has no grand momentum but is full of ethereal tenderness.
Fairy-tale wooden houses can be seen everywhere. Even hidden in this tranquil corner of the world, its stunning beauty cannot be concealed. If there really is a fairy tale world and a paradise on earth, this must be it.
Hallstatt is one of the oldest towns in Austria, with a history of thousands of years. Along the lake and extending up the hillside, rows of compact hotels and houses are built closely together. The quaint alleys are crowded with tourists.
The Protestant Church on the small square is the most famous building in Hallstatt. No matter where you are in the town, you can see its iconic spire.
As early as 2500 BC, this place had a highly developed human civilization, even identified as the cradle of the European Iron Age. At the same time, it is a "salt mine treasure land." The mining of salt led to the settlement of Hallstatt. There is the world's oldest salt mine, where the ancient Celts mined mountain salt, the white gold of life. The development of the salt mining industry not only promoted the local economy but also added profound cultural value. To this day, the salt mine is still in use. Tourists can put on work clothes in the rest area and follow a guide into the cold depths of the salt mine on a rail cart.
The town, nestled between mountains and water, is like a flowing ribbon wandering between the lush green forests and the clear emerald Hallstatt Lake. Various small wooden houses perfectly adorn the lakeside and hillside. Small boats slowly glide across the lake, and cheerful swans play.
What is most commendable is that the huge economic benefits brought by tourism have not made the town too restless. It still retains a natural and simple commercial atmosphere. There are no vendors or guides soliciting tourists, and no haggling noise. Everything is still clean and peaceful.
The town has only about a thousand people. People like to plant lush vines and blooming flowers on their windowsills and balconies, decorating the cascading greenery like waterfalls. Every corner is worth seeing. Walking slowly along the winding and narrow paths, you feel the peaceful atmosphere and the ubiquitous vitality of the town.
Cheers and singing came to my ears from not far away. A few young people and an older person were having a friendly competition, with a group of people, whether acquaintances or strangers, cheering and joking. The scene was very joyful.
Another small group nearby was drinking, singing, and chatting. Happiness is really that simple!
Captured a handsome guy, a true bohemian style, with untamed shoulder-length blond hair and a gentle, slightly shy smile—irresistible, haha! I'm such a fangirl!
Whether it's passersby engaged in lively conversation or the back of an old man in the alley, everything feels intimate and familiar, giving a warm feeling.
Walking aimlessly through the streets, simple happiness is the life of the people here. I think it's also the dream of many people today.
A writer once said, "This world may seem noisy, full of all kinds of people, like a muddy flow, but in essence, it is still your own world. If you are clear, the world is clean; if you are simple, the world is hard to be complicated. If you don't compromise, the world won't be ambiguous."
Strolling through the town, waves of flowers came one after another. Wooden doors and lattice windows, hidden by blooming flowers. Every window is decorated with colorful flowers, and every house has at least one window facing the emerald lake, quietly maintaining a centuries-old elegance. Here, you encounter all kinds of beauty.
The town is really small. It takes only ten minutes to walk from one end to the other. But precisely because it is small, every angle is different and unique. To explore Hallstatt, you can also rent a small boat and row on the lake, wandering among the green mountains and clear waters, enjoying a panoramic view of the ancient buildings along the shore.
There are many places to rent boats in the town, offering options such as electric boats, pedal boats, and rowboats, with prices varying by boat type.
Actually, spending a night in the town would be perfect, to see it in the early morning and at night. But the space is very limited, and parking is a big problem. So we found a nearby ski resort hotel, nestled in a valley—a perfect pastoral idyll and another pleasant surprise.
During ski season, this hotel is hard to book. Now is the least touristy period, and the room rate was quite attractive.
In this rapidly changing world, the tendrils of worldly troubles seem not to have reached here. Everything remains as it was. In the illusion of time reversal and the nonexistence of the outside world, it's easy to grasp a bit of pure tranquility. Everyone can listen to their own heart and be grateful for the beauty of life.
The hotel's breakfast room: open the door and step directly into the most pristine pastoral scenery.
The hotel is built entirely of wood, with multi-bed rooms, perfect for families traveling together.
Opening the window in the morning, the weather was gloomy again. The moist air, fragrant with grass, drifted in. The mist over the village was slowly dissipating. Lush green spread endlessly before my eyes. In the distance, gentle hills, abundant meadows, and rolling mountains—all peaceful and quiet, everything pure and silent.
After breakfast, we drove back to Hallstatt. Today's plan was to visit the oldest salt mine here.
Hallstatt is not only incredibly scenic but also a famous salt-producing area in Austria. As early as 900 BC, people began mining salt. It was the discovery of salt that gave birth to Hallstatt, earning it the nickname "salt mine treasure land." Salt was a very precious resource at that time, bringing prosperity and wealth to the town.
At the entrance square of the town, a statue of a salt miner carrying a large wooden salt bucket was erected to commemorate these early residents who brought a golden age to the town and the legends of salt.
You can also take a cable car to overlook the entire town.
The breakfast stalls on the street were open, with steaming fragrant smells wafting over.
We went to the tourist information center to inquire about visiting the salt mine. The staff apologetically said that heavy rain was expected today, so the tours were canceled. They suggested visiting the ossuary (bone church) in the town.
Standing by the lake, leaning on the railing, the town in the early morning had an even more ethereal and serene hermit-like quality. Houses shrouded in mist, swans elegantly swimming in the dark green lake, occasionally a small boat rowing by, creating countless ripples on the surface—it was like standing at the end of a dream, so hazy and unreal.
Winding up the lakeside path, the melodious church bells echoed through the valley. Small wooden houses hidden among flowers and grass led you into a painting.
The ossuary was halfway up the hill, not far from the small central square. The entrance was small and not easy to find. The area was small but included a Catholic church, a cemetery next to the church, and the ossuary behind the cemetery.
The interior of the ossuary was only about 20 square meters. On the wooden shelves facing the main entrance were rows of skulls painted with different patterns. Below the shelves were neatly stacked limb bones.
Over a thousand years of history gave rise to a unique custom in the town. Unknown when it started, after a person had been buried for 10 years, relatives would exhume the bones to make room for the "newcomer." Why this custom? Because this blessed land was too precious and limited.
After cleaning, only the legs and skull were kept. After being sun-bleached for several weeks, a professional bone painter would carefully paint the deceased's name, date of death, oak leaves and laurel branches (symbolizing glory and victory), ivy (symbolizing life), roses (symbolizing love), snakes (symbolizing death), and crosses (symbolizing God's salvation) on the skulls.
These had become finely crafted artworks displayed in the ossuary for posterity to pay homage. Besides solemnity, there was also a special warmth. It is said this custom has over 1,600 years of history.
The cemetery was a platform extending from the hillside beside the church, only about 30 square meters. Green trees and flowers accompanied the tombstones. According to Chinese beliefs, resting in such a feng shui treasure would bless future generations.
The graves, bones, and skulls did not give me any eerie or fearful feeling, but rather a quiet beauty like autumn leaves. Standing there, I felt as if I were undergoing a thorough spiritual cleansing. The value of life seemed to be extended through these "skull artworks." The Eastern and Western attitudes toward death clearly showed different ideologies: reverence vs. respect. One continues in another world to grant blessings to descendants; the other is remembered and missed in the same world by posterity...
"We were once what you are now; you will become what we are now." A meaningful slogan at the church entrance encapsulated the cycle of life and death.
This place is almost isolated from the world. There is no airport, train station, or large dock, only a tiny bus station. Although located in central Austria, getting here is not convenient. Perhaps this inconvenience has allowed the town to maintain its thousand-year-old appearance.
"Only a few days in the mountains, but a thousand years have passed in the world." This saying best describes the town.
On the road, continuing through Austria's most classic pastoral idyll, the rain grew heavier. Tomorrow was the boarding day, so we headed toward Budapest, Hungary. Tonight, we planned to stay in Slovakia.
We had already entered the most beautiful section of the Danube Valley, in the state of Lower Austria: the town of Melk. In the movie "Sissi," Sissi traveled down the Danube from her homeland Bavaria to Vienna to marry Franz Joseph. The last place she passed before arriving was Melk. This town of fewer than 5,000 people houses what is known as "the most beautiful abbey in the world," and the library within it is considered one of "the most beautiful libraries in the world." For nearly a thousand years, it has been Austria's spiritual and cultural center.
In 976, Leopold I of the House of Babenberg was the count of this Melk territory. He built a magnificent "Melk Castle" on a rock high above the Danube as his residence. In 1089, Leopold II donated the castle to the local Benedictine monastery and converted it into Melk Abbey (Stift Melk) for monks to practice and preach. For centuries, it was the highest theological school in Austria.
Note: The Benedictine Order is a monastic order founded by Saint Benedict in the early 6th century and is one of the oldest Catholic religious orders.
From the parking lot, we walked along the path outside the abbey. We first passed an English-style garden that was meticulously groomed like a fine brush painting, with a pink Baroque garden pavilion that now serves as a restaurant for visitors. You can enjoy a quiet meal or an exquisite afternoon tea there. The restaurant was filled with whimsically beautiful hand-painted murals, giving it a feeling of the Garden of Eden.
The exterior walls of the entire complex used a distinctive yellow hue. It is said that the abbey received support from the Habsburg dynasty and became an imperial residence. This striking yellow was the favorite color of Queen Maria Theresa, known as "Theresa Yellow," the same color as the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna.
Passing through the gate and forecourt, we entered the Prelate's Courtyard, a "courtyard" surrounded by magnificent Baroque buildings. In the center was an old fountain. From the courtyard, you could see the dark green Baroque dome of the abbey church.
I am not a believer, but I made a detour here because of an old movie that won several film festival awards, "The Name of the Rose," starring the ever-handsome Sean Connery. The film was based on the novel of the same name by the famous Italian semiotician Umberto Eco. The novel was inspired by a manuscript left by a German priest at Melk Abbey in the 14th century. In 2018, it was adapted into a TV series by French director Jean-Jacques Annaud (who also directed "The Lover" starring Tony Leung). I had followed all of them. How could I miss the place that inspired this great novel and film?
So now, let's step into Melk Abbey, which completely overturns the usual dark and dull impression of an abbey. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside, and the staff kept a close watch on those of us with cameras hanging around our necks. But I managed to quickly take a few shots with my phone while they were giving an impassioned explanation (so I could provide these very rare indoor photos). My heart was pounding with nervousness—never again!
Passing through the Prelate's Courtyard, we entered this pink-toned corridor, from which we ascended the Emperor's Stairs. The color scheme was elegant and warm.
Then we entered what I consider the most worthy place of worship: the library, the only one of its kind listed as a World Heritage site. It is the supreme existence in the library world. It houses nearly 100,000 priceless medieval manuscripts—yes, all of them are priceless—covering religion, philosophy, psychology, medicine, and other cutting-edge medieval sciences. Its reputation and academic value are immeasurable. Calling it the pinnacle of human textual halls is no exaggeration.
According to a staff member, in the mid-18th century, the abbey urgently needed a large sum of money for repairs. Selling just three of the manuscripts inside could have raised the funds, but no one dared to commit such sacrilege. Finally, with the full support of the royal family, Queen Maria Theresa of the Habsburg dynasty funded the renovation of the abbey, preserving it to this day.
The library has 12 book rooms, nearly 100,000 manuscripts, the most precious of which are scriptures handwritten by monks a thousand years ago. Stepping into the main hall of the library, all I could do was marvel. Piles of neatly arranged ancient books made you truly understand the boundlessness of knowledge.
The abbey has historically been a fortress of learning. Only those dedicated to theological research and religious work could study here. The abbey continues as a world-class theological school with over 900 students. Even today, you can often see black-robed monks.
Following the library's tour route, we passed through a door and came to the large terrace on the second floor of the abbey. From here, you could admire the majestic abbey church tower, the beautiful Wachau Valley, and the town of Melk.
The terrace offered an excellent view of the entire town of Melk and the Melk River, a tributary of the Danube. On the left, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin is a landmark of Melk. It is said that the exterior shots of the church in "The Sound of Music" were filmed here.
If I hadn't known beforehand, within my limited understanding, I would never have imagined that such a vast palace-like complex could be an abbey. In the rain and mist, Melk Abbey looked even more solemn and sacred.
From the terrace, you could photograph the front of the abbey. The central building is the abbey church, flanked by the Marble Hall and the library.
From the library to the abbey church, you pass through a spiral staircase. The most magnificent part arrived: this nautilus-shaped staircase, like a time tunnel, was also a photo spot in the abbey. The spiral stairs wound layer upon layer, extending infinitely, luxuriously fantastic enough to make you dizzy and gasp.
The spiral staircase seemed bottomless, extremely layered, elongating the originally not-so-deep space. If you looked up from the bottom, the people coming down the stairs seemed to be stepping out of a painting.
Extremely profound, making you truly feel the infinity of heaven and earth and the sensation of eternity. If there were stairs to heaven, this must be what they look like!
Before I could recover from the shock of the spiral staircase, I entered the church and was stunned again. The exquisitely ornate and luxurious dome, the intricate and splendid frescoes, the golden statues of saints adorned every corner. Such a chaotic mix of colors was arranged in an orderly manner, like a carefully composed symphony, noble and sacred. I was completely overwhelmed by this Baroque feast brought to its extreme.
Numerous religious oil paintings by masters, each a priceless treasure. The entire ceiling was covered with large murals, each an artistic masterpiece.
Eight-sided ceiling, introducing the heavenly arch gods, echoing the golden altar. Elaborate but not redundant, complex but not chaotic.
The huge wooden Etsch clock made in 1810 at Melk Abbey records the vicissitudes the abbey has experienced.
Melk Abbey also serves as a museum, with 11 exhibition halls related to religion, preserving many historical artifacts of the Catholic Benedictine Order from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as many precious treasures and artworks collected by subsequent abbots. The dazzling array of rare treasures exceeded my imagination.
Melk Abbey is the pinnacle of the fusion of Baroque art and religion. Rome wasn't built in a day. How the historical remains gradually achieved today's glory—different time fragments strung together form a complex history. Such a massive, cross-century, successively completed work embodies the wisdom of countless world-class masters. This immortal Baroque gem has left a vast carrier of medieval civilization for today.
The admission fee of 11 euros is far more valuable than several hundred yuan tickets for so-called 5A-level tourist attractions in China!
Leaving Melk Abbey, we sped away and soon left Austria, entering Slovakia. We stayed that night at the Castle Hotel Bella in Slovakia, near the Hungarian border.
In our usual European travels, we always have a special feature: visiting European heritage hotels. I highly recommend this as an unmissable experience.
Note: Heritage Hotels of Europe is an alliance of hotel associations from different European countries, comprising hotels converted from historic cultural heritage buildings such as castles, noble estates, and monasteries.
It was already dark when we arrived. After several phone calls and a few wrong turns, we finally found the hotel entrance. Calling it an "entrance" was generous, especially in the pitch-black night.
A castle—a word that sounds mysterious and full of fairy-tale charm. It could be an eerie castle overgrown with vines, a holy palace of the Snow Queen, or a magical place perched on a cliff, solemn and profound.
Coming to these castles built by genuine royalty and nobility, let's dream a fleeting princess dream in such rooms. Sweet dreams!
The village where this castle hotel was located was only 12 kilometers from the Hungarian border. We had most of the day to wander before heading to Budapest to board the ship in the evening. The picture below is the entrance we couldn't find last night—even the GPS was confused. It was so narrow, just the width of one car.
Staying in the hotel felt like being in a museum. After a good night's sleep, I didn't want to linger in bed. I got up early because there was so much unknown waiting to be explored. After a hearty breakfast in the elegantly decorated dining room, I started wandering around.
There was even a smoking area outside the restaurant—considerate.
The hotel restaurant serves traditional Austrian and Hungarian cuisine, with many ingredients from the castle's own garden. There are also other restaurants of various sizes, from the Vinotheca wine-tasting venue and private banquet halls to the Orangery event hall for large celebrations and weddings, meeting all guests' needs.
I began exploring this rural castle hotel. There were so many rooms, one after another.
This was a lounge for guests to rest and chat. On a table in the corner was a guestbook where visitors from all over the world could write freely. I also pretended to be profound and wrote a few words.
This castle is built in the French Baroque style. In 1780, a local noble built a small chapel, the prototype of the castle. In 1834, Mr. Antal Baldacci from Corsica, France, bought the property and began extensive expansion. The current scale was achieved by 1874. To this day, the castle still serves as the local church for the town, often hosting weddings and religious events.
The castle owner was an antique collector with many valuable oil paintings, sculptures, furniture made of precious wood, and Asian artworks from afar. He placed his lifelong collections in different rooms of this hotel, full of historical and cultural atmosphere, for guests to appreciate up close. The picture above shows a genuine giant elephant tusk, taller than me.
This is a smaller, more private lounge, where you can gather with a few close friends to chat, read, or have afternoon tea.
This is a reading room with many classic books.
Let's continue with the castle's story. In the many years following the French owner, the castle changed hands several times, always carefully maintained by its successive owners.
In 1945, the castle was taken over by the socialist Czechoslovak government and used as a chemical factory, becoming state property. In 1990, it became part of the National Trust.
It wasn't until 2000 that it was purchased by a descendant of the Slovak nobility. It was restored with maximum fidelity and personalization, converted into this hotel, which opened in 2008, turning it into a place where history can be directly touched.
Roaming through rooms of different styles felt like a time-traveling journey through a museum's magical night—wonderfully intoxicating.
This is the logo of Heritage Hotels of Europe.
The courtyard, shaded by ancient trees, was like an aristocratic young lady, graceful and serene.
This historic castle hotel is set in the picturesque landscape of southern Slovakia. The hotel's backyard connects to endless rural fields. You can go fishing in the lake, horseback riding, play tennis, take a walk, or just daydream—enjoy a leisurely time in the most comfortable way.
Looking into the distance at gentle hills, abundant meadows, and rolling mountains—nothing is illusory; all are visible and within reach. The pastoral poetry is so tranquil and beautiful, the touchable meaning of serenity. The air is fresh, almost sweet. Only the quiet wind blowing in your ears, allowing you to enjoy this beauty alone.
There were also cute little rabbits raised here, probably for the children.
Old walls, ancient trees, flowers everywhere, grass fragrance and quiet chirps—such unparalleled tranquility seems to be related to romance. Strolling here with your beloved, let the shutter capture the marks of love among the green grass and flowers.
Sauntering to the garden, fountains, arches—the composition of humanity and nature is flawless. Without worldly troubles, one might want to abandon all distractions and elope here with the love of your life.
In the hotel, the corridors had beautiful light and shadow. Carefully restored frescoes and antique furniture were everywhere, vintage but refined, with French classical touches everywhere.
Many castles and palaces in Europe slowly decay over time. To give them new life, many countries or individuals convert well-preserved cultural heritage buildings in advantageous locations into hotels, using the income to maintain and repair the ancient structures. This is a sign of respect and inheritance for culture. Their protection of historical relics is a natural part of their genes.
The fairy-tale world may be far away, but castles are very close to us—mysterious and romantic, luxurious and elegant. They hold fast to what they should and change what they should. If you are tired of the uniformity of modern hotels, these places can pull our thoughts back to the distant past. So why not experience these beautiful hidden paradises and leave yourself an unforgettable journey memory?
We headed straight to the border, passing through the Danube border town of Štúrovo.
The winding path led to Castle Hill. The church tower created a strong historical atmosphere, making one sigh at the years of hardship before the current tranquil Danube.
Strolling along the riverbank on the border, the Mária Valéria Bridge across the Danube connects Hungary and Slovakia. One river separates two towns, one bridge connects two countries.
The Mária Valéria Bridge spans the Danube, about 500 meters long. It was first built in 1895 and was destroyed by German troops during World War II. Since then, the two banks relied on ferries. Due to historically strained relations between Hungary and Slovakia, the bridge was never repaired. It was rebuilt in 2001 with financial support from the European Union.
Crossing the bridge, we entered the Hungarian border town of Esztergom. This small town holds a very special meaning for Hungarians. It is the birthplace of the Hungarian nation. King Stephen I was born here and crowned here. It was the capital in the early days of the kingdom (until Béla IV moved the capital to Budapest). The royal palace and castle of Esztergom were destroyed in wars, leaving only a basilica.
The basilica stands majestically on the bank of the Danube, facing the Slovak town of Štúrovo across the river. After the main body of this church was completed, a grand consecration ceremony was held. The great composer Franz Liszt composed the "Grand Mass" especially for this occasion as a gift and personally conducted the music during the consecration mass. It is the largest and highest-ranking church in Hungary, the second-largest cathedral in Europe, and the fourth-largest in the world. We went straight to this cathedral without going elsewhere.
The church is 118 meters long and 40 meters wide. From the crypt to the central dome, it is 100 meters high. The golden cross on top is 7 meters high. It stands proudly on Castle Hill, backed by the Danube, with 22-meter-high columns. People look so small before its massive and magnificent form.
Unfortunately, the church was not open today for unknown reasons, so we had no chance to go inside. The largest altar decoration in the world—the Assumption of the Virgin Mary painting, the largest single oil painting in the world—and the largest main altar are inside this church.
Behind the church, there is a viewing platform close to the Danube. Standing on the broken granite low wall and looking into the distance, the Danube flows quietly at our feet.
This is the most beautiful bend of the Danube. The river makes a 90-degree turn southward toward Budapest. On the opposite bank is the Slovak town of Štúrovo.
Next, we headed straight to Budapest. Today was the cruise check-in day. We had lunch with a friend working at the embassy at noon, returned the car at the airport in the afternoon, and boarded the Viking River Cruise in the evening, starting another wonderful journey.
After boarding the ship and dropping off our luggage, we rushed straight to the banks of the Blue Danube, wildly taking photos until we were exhausted!
Meeting this breathtaking city again felt like a dream.
Under the night sky, the bridges over the Danube were all lit up, brilliant and colorful. The royal palace on the hill and Fisherman's Bastion, dressed in golden light, stood proudly!
Some say Budapest is one of the top three European cities worth revisiting. I really came back, because... of the night!
At night, it's also the most popular place for young people, both tourists and locals.
