A Treasure Worth Exploring Deeply - A Peninsula Tour of the Balkan Peninsula
A Treasure Worth Exploring Deeply - Eastern European Balkan Peninsula
Travel Diary, September 2016
Prelude: Niche Travel Route, The Best Itinerary
D1 Beijing - Minsk - Budapest, Hungary: The journey begins with a story.
D2 Hungary: Budapest - Szeged: A complete case study of a socialist country's transition to capitalism; just look here.
D3 Serbia: Belgrade: The merits and demerits of a great leader are left for future generations to judge; fraternal strife, a shift from strong to weak.
D4 Serbia: Zlatibor: Traveling through the valleys, experiencing the past.
D5 Montenegro: Tara River Canyon - Podgorica: High mountains and deep valleys, a place that evokes memories for a generation.
D6 Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo: Visit the site of major historical events; this is where ethnic conflicts and religious clashes are most intense.
D7 Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mostar: Ancient and modern, war and peace.
D8 Croatia: Split: Here lies the final days of the instigator who split the Roman Empire into East and West.
D9 Croatia: Trogir, Plitvice: A city that has preserved various architectural forms from multiple foreign invasions to this day.
D10 Croatia: Plitvice Lakes: Such scenery should only exist in heaven, as if a jade pool has fallen to earth.
D11 Croatia: Zagreb, Kumrovec: Historical relics everywhere tell legendary stories of the past.
D12 Slovenia: Postojna Cave, Lake Bled: Natural wonders beyond words, awe-inspiring.
D13 Slovenia: Ljubljana: A place where you can fully appreciate what non-mainstream art is.
D14 Hungary: Hévíz, Lake Balaton: The most enjoyable day of the journey begins here.
D15 Hungary: Budapest - Beijing: Stroll on Castle Hill, search for ancient history, a perfect ending to the trip.
Prelude: Niche Travel Route, The Best Itinerary
The Balkan Peninsula is one of the three major peninsulas in Southern Europe (the other two are the Apennine Peninsula occupied by Italy and the Iberian Peninsula occupied by Portugal and Spain). The Balkan Peninsula includes six countries and regions that split from the former Yugoslavia, as well as Bulgaria, Albania, Romania, etc. The route we planned this time covers Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH), Croatia, and Slovenia from the former Yugoslavia, as well as Hungary in Central Europe, which can be called an in-depth tour of the former Yugoslavia.
Saying "the route we planned" is not an exaggeration. This team of 27 people are all connected. The leader, A Liang, has worked in travel agencies for many years, has extensive connections and experience. He discussed and revised the route multiple times to find a suitable one, avoiding the visa hassle of entering and exiting Macedonia multiple times, bypassing the sensitive Kosovo region, deleting Bulgaria and Albania, which had uncertain itineraries and timeframes, and enriching the attractions and content of other former Yugoslav countries, making the itinerary reasonable and comfortable. The travel agency finally gave the itinerary based on the discussion results, which can basically be understood as a "free tour under the leadership of the travel agency." The originally planned group of about a dozen people quickly increased to nearly 30 in a short time, showing no signs of stopping.
We have a deep impression of the former Yugoslavia from our childhood. In the early days of reform and opening up, films from the former Yugoslavia were among the few foreign films allowed to enter China first. Films like "Walter Defends Sarajevo" and "The Bridge," along with scenes and the theme song "Bella Ciao," are still familiar to us today. We have seen the strength of Yugoslavia under Tito's leadership and witnessed its disintegration. We saw the war and smoke between the ethnic groups in Bosnia and Herzegovina on news and television. On May 7, 1999, an American missile hit the Chinese Embassy in the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, killing three Chinese journalists. We have also mourned them at the Babaoshan Revolutionary Cemetery. Having the opportunity to visit the hometown of Tito and Walter, to personally touch the history of World War I and World War II, to touch the socialist history of the former Yugoslavia, and to see the situation after the country's split—the mountains, the waters, the people—so much known and unknown...
September 4: Beijing - Minsk - Budapest, Hungary
The journey begins with a story.
Gather at Terminal 3 at 10:00 AM. Take Air China flight CA721 departing at 13:05, stopping in Minsk, Belarus, to Budapest, Hungary.
After 8 hours of flight, we stopped at Minsk Airport for 90 minutes. Although the waiting area was small, it was rich in exotic atmosphere. Matryoshka dolls, porcelain plates, dolls in ethnic costumes, and various handicrafts were worth admiring. Dark chocolate with 90% cocoa content was only 1 euro, with simple packaging and affordable price; I decisively bought some. This map of Belarus should be the best advertisement placed in the right spot. I took a photo with the advertisement, as if stepping on Belarusian soil.
Arrived at Budapest Airport, the capital of Hungary, around 7:30 PM local time. It took an hour to go through customs and collect luggage. The inevitable happened: Mr. and Mrs. Sun, two of our group members, only found one of their two suitcases. After negotiating with the airport, we found the suitcase's whereabouts—it was still at Beijing's T3 Airport and never boarded the plane! During the pre-departure meeting, the guide repeatedly emphasized: if two people are traveling together, it's best to put some of each other's clothes and items in the other's suitcase to be safe in case one suitcase doesn't arrive—this has happened before. At the time, I didn't take it seriously, but now it happened. Mr. Sun went to file the report. When reporting back to his wife, he omitted that part, so they packed their own suitcases separately. The one that didn't arrive happened to be Mr. Sun's. Fortunately, we had accurate information about the suitcase, because we were leaving Budapest tomorrow, and the next stop had no large airport or Air China flights. The most likely scenario was that we could see the suitcase after arriving in Belgrade the day after tomorrow. For now, we'll have to make do. It seems the guide's reminders are all experience, paid for with lessons. Not taking them seriously is really not okay.
We met the local guide, Zheng Yu, a young man from Fujian who has lived in Hungary for over 20 years. The first thing he did on the bus was to continue the safety education using the incident: When traveling abroad, pay attention to personal safety and property safety. Currently, there are still refugees in Serbia, Montenegro, etc., and many thieves. There are various ways of theft and robbery to guard against. Check your belongings to avoid losing things. A group he led once had someone leave their dentures in the hotel (how funny!), and someone left their bag on the scenic area shuttle bus (how sad!). This paragraph also serves as a reminder for me, someone who tends to lose things, to try not to lose anything this time!
It was already evening when we left the airport and entered Budapest city. I had been here two years ago, and coming back felt very familiar. The Danube River divides the city into Buda and Pest. The City Hall, Fisherman's Bastion, Royal Palace, and Art Museum were brilliantly lit by scenic lights. Margaret Bridge, Elizabeth Bridge, Liberty Bridge, and Petőfi Bridge were trimmed with beautiful golden lights. The tour of both sides of Budapest is arranged for the last two days of the trip. Tonight, we stay at the Mercure Buda Hotel near the southern railway station in Pest.
(Although Hungary is an EU country, it does not use the euro; it still uses the local currency, the forint. The exchange rate at the hotel is 1 euro to 286.5 forints; outside, it's roughly 1 to 300 when using euros.)
September 5: Hungary: Budapest - Szeged
A complete case study of a socialist country's transition to capitalism; just look here.
This trip is dubbed the "Red Tour." In Yugoslavia, we will visit Tito. Hungary was also a little brother in the European socialist camp. The first activity is to visit the outdoor museum on the outskirts of Budapest—the Communist Statue Park. The museum is about half an hour's drive from the city center.
This is a piece of past history. In 1944, German troops occupied Hungary. In 1945, the Hungarian people were fully liberated with the help of the Soviet Red Army. In 1946, the monarchy was abolished, and the Republic of Hungary (Second Republic) was established. In 1949, the constitution declared Hungary a state of workers and working people, and the Hungarian People's Republic was proclaimed, making it a member of the socialist camp. But the good times didn't last long; the socialist system existed for only 40 years. In October 1989, the parliament passed a constitutional amendment, canceling the leading role of the Marxist-Leninist party in state institutions and changing the country's name back to the Republic of Hungary (Third Republic). These 40 years experienced the early period of initial authoritarian politics, expansion of class struggle, blind copying of Soviet experience leading to instability and civil unrest; the period of comprehensive political and economic system reform and socialist construction; the period of deepening political and economic reform to further revitalize the socialist economy; and of course, the late 1980s when the ruling party (Hungarian Socialist Workers' Party) made mistakes in reform, causing a decline in living standards, increased political instability, strengthened political opposition, and the party's loss of prestige, ultimately stepping down, leading to a fundamental change in the state system. The People's Republic no longer exists. History tells us that any country that widens the gap between rich and poor, causing people's living standards to drop and most people unable to live the good life they expect, will become unstable.
The park is in a remote area on the outskirts. It opened to the public on June 29, 1993. It displays socialist-themed statues that once stood in various places in Budapest during the socialist period. The park gate is actually a wall made of red bricks, with three arched openings in the middle. The left one is the entrance/exit. On the left and right sides of the red brick wall, large windows are cut out. On the right stand statues of Marx and Engels, and on the left stands a statue of Lenin.
After entering the gate, turn right into a narrow passage. A small shop is a must-pass, selling various souvenirs. An old-fashioned radio plays music from that period, sounding familiar.
Entering the park, the ground is covered with crushed stones. The area is not large, but because all statues are distributed along the outer edge, and the center is a circular flower bed with a red five-pointed star surrounded by green grass, it feels quite spacious.
There are multiple statues of Lenin, Soviet Red Army statues, and statues showing the Soviet big brother shaking hands with the Hungarian people as comrades and brothers, reflecting the special status of the Soviet Union in that special period. A relief of two girls releasing doves looks like propaganda posters we've seen. A statue of a worker running with full strength resembles our image of building socialism with speed and efficiency in those days. Many statues, possibly of famous people, have descriptions mostly in Hungarian. Although we couldn't understand, we paid respects to each one.
This park carries that period of Hungarian history, providing a place for future generations and those who want to understand that history to mourn and have physical contact with the past.
Return to the city center for lunch at a Chinese restaurant. Before this trip, the travel agency clearly told us that due to the low number of Chinese tourists in this region, there are not many Chinese restaurants. Out of a total of 28 full meals, only 9 are Chinese meals, so we pay extra attention to these 9 opportunities. At least the few meals in Budapest are Chinese.
Heroes' Square is a must-visit spot every time I come to Budapest. Last time, the sun was shining and it was uncomfortable. This time, it's better—it's raining. In the light rain, you can stroll comfortably, but taking photos is troublesome and not good-looking. Still, let's carefully browse the history. Hungarian history is not very long. From the 4th to 8th centuries, this area was mainly inhabited by nomadic peoples, gradually forming several small principalities. In the 9th century, an emperor of one principality wanted to use outside forces to defeat others, so he brought in the nomadic Magyars from the northeast. The Magyars had seven tribes, fierce and skilled in battle. They elected Árpád as their leader and crossed the Carpathian Mountains in 896 AD, conquering the weak principalities and settling on this land (a bit like inviting a wolf into the house). Nomads are always restless; they raided all over Europe, causing neighboring European countries to consider them a menace and plan to jointly attack them. To survive, Árpád's great-grandson Géza converted to Catholicism after inheriting the throne, gaining recognition from surrounding Catholic countries. Géza's son Stephen succeeded in 997, defeated other contenders for leadership, applied to Rome for the crown and received it, officially turning Hungary into a Christian country, integrating the Hungarian people into Europe—undoubtedly a very correct decision at the time. Stephen was crowned king in 1000 AD, transforming tribal structures into a state. He is known as Saint Stephen I of Hungary. Heroes' Square was built by the Hungarians in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of their settlement, also called Millennium Square. In the center of the square is a 36-meter-high memorial column. At the base are statues of seven mounted warriors—the seven tribal leaders of the Magyars, led by Árpád. Without them, there would be no Hungary today.
On top of the column is an angel, holding a scepter in the left hand and a crown in the right (symbolizing divine right).
On both sides at the back are symmetrical Roman colonnades with 14 statues of kings and notable figures from Hungary's 1000-year history. The first on the left is the founding king, Saint Stephen.
Heroes' Square is now the center for national political activities. Facing the square, on the right is the National Art Museum, a Greek-style building with Rococo decoration, resplendent. The pediment is decorated with gilded biblical scenes. On the left is the National Gallery, a simple Greek triangular pediment with columns, and relief statues on the pediment.
Under the square opposite is the first metro line on the European continent, built in 1894 during the Austro-Hungarian Empire (during the Guangxu period of China's Qing Dynasty), still in operation. Note: it's the first on the European continent! Even Austria didn't have one at that time. It was a contribution by Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to Hungary. Unfortunately, the meeting time came before we could see it, but we can take a look at group members' photos.
Continue the journey. Drive 180 km to the Hungarian border city of Szeged. Szeged is the fourth largest city in Hungary, with an area of 280 square kilometers and a population of 170,000 (immediately reminiscent of Beijing's Tiantongyuan, which has a permanent population of over 280,000—just a residential area in Changping District! Remember, in Europe, don't compare with China!). It has the second largest river in Hungary, the Tisza River. In the 16th century, Hungary was invaded by the Ottoman Empire, and the capital was moved here. Under the leadership of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the Ottomans were defeated and Hungary was liberated. In 1848, Hungary opposed Habsburg autocracy, fighting for independence, and Szeged was the spark that ignited the flame. Its status is somewhat like Yan'an during China's War of Resistance. It is also considered an economic and cultural center of Hungary, with many colleges. The Confucius Institute is also located here. Most of the buildings along the streets were built during the Austro-Hungarian period in the 18th-19th centuries. It was drizzling all day. Walking through the streets, the old buildings and gray sky gave a heavy feeling. Only the occasional young people cycling by brought vitality. We passed the City Art Museum,
The Museum (a private museum donated by a man named Móra Ferenc, with a small statue of him standing beside the steps),
Ahead is the Votive Church (Fogadalmi templom). The front is very imposing, with several barn-like structures and a tall, slender bell tower, well-proportioned.
Entering the church through a side door, the interior is exquisitely decorated. The dome of the arched structure is painted with colorful and gold biblical scenes. The colorful rose windows depict biblical figures, and the walls are covered with decorations, making the church appear magnificent. On both sides are several altars for Christ and the Virgin Mary.
Next to the altar table in the central area is a photo of Mother Teresa, with fresh flowers beside it. Probably just had a service. Mother Teresa was a world-renowned Catholic charity worker who served the poor in Calcutta, India, and won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1979. Checking online, on September 4, 2016, the Vatican held a canonization ceremony for her on the 19th anniversary of her death, declaring her a saint. Today is September 5; presumably, yesterday's activities here were synchronized with Rome.
Leaving the church, we are in a square surrounded by colonnades on three sides. The walls have many statues, some busts, some full-length, both ancient and modern. There are 70 in total, all local celebrities, including clergy, writers, politicians, composers, artists, etc. They are symbols of national spirit. This place is translated as "Pantheon."
Passing through the Pantheon, we come to a university campus. Various sculptures on campus are puzzling (e.g., a sculpture of multiple people holding up a giant moth—is this the biology college?).
After dinner, check into the hotel, NOVOTEL. The room is really great, much better than hotels in Western Europe (Western European hotel rooms often have no space to turn around, and the beds are as narrow as stretchers).
Outside the window is the Tisza River, the second largest river in Hungary.
September 6: Serbia: Belgrade
The merits and demerits of a great leader are left for future generations to judge; fraternal strife, a shift from strong to weak.
Early morning after breakfast, I grabbed my camera and headed to the river. Someone had gone out for a walk last night and found nice scenery by the river. The hotel is only one street away from the river. The river doesn't look wide, and the scenery on both banks is pleasant. In the distance, you can see the two spires of the Votive Church we visited yesterday. By the river, there is a bronze statue of a sturdy fisherwoman holding a fish, seemingly in a swimming pose. Not sure what it means—perhaps a river fairy blessing humanity? In 1879, this seemingly narrow river flooded, destroying most of the city. The current city was mostly rebuilt after that.
Szeged has large vegetable bases, including some operated by Chinese. There is a large logistics center here. Even Chinese restaurants in Vienna come here to pick up vegetables. There is also oil, and a good educational environment. The whole city gives a fresh and clean feeling.
Leave this fresh city and head towards the border between Hungary and Serbia.
We are only a few kilometers from the border. Exit Hungary, get off the bus, queue up with passports to get stamped. It took 20 minutes. Then get back on the bus and drive to the Serbian border.
The customs clearance method here is that border personnel come on the bus to collect passports, check and stamp them, and then clearance is done. Relatively simple.
While waiting, we saw a row of sheds outside the fence on the Hungarian side, with Red Cross vehicles. It is said these are refugees. They had crossed the Serbian border and wanted to enter Hungary to move on to Germany, but were stopped by a fence on the Hungarian side. Their situation is very tragic: homes destroyed, nowhere to go.
Serbia was the main country within the former Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia before its breakup, and it is the largest of the six countries after the split. Tracing back to 1918, the Serbs gained independence from the Ottoman Empire, establishing the Kingdom of Serbia, which then formed the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, renamed the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. In 1945, the Federal People's Republic of Yugoslavia was established, renamed the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (SFRY) in 1963. In 1991-92, Slovenia, Croatia, Macedonia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina became independent. Serbia and Montenegro formed the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (FRY), renamed Serbia and Montenegro in 2003, dropping the name "Yugoslavia," making Yugoslavia history. In 2006, Montenegro seceded from Serbia and Montenegro after a referendum. In 2008, Kosovo declared independence from Serbia, not universally recognized, becoming the Kosovo region.
The ethnic conflicts in Yugoslavia are very complex. There are 8 ethnic groups with populations over 500,000, with the largest Serbs making up one-third of the population. After World War I, although the 8 ethnic groups were unified into one kingdom, the kingdom adopted Great Serbianism, causing tense ethnic relations. During Tito's rule, ethnic equality policies were implemented in Yugoslavia, recognizing the existence of each ethnicity, and the country adopted a federal system (equivalent to ethnic regional autonomy). After Tito's death in 1980, Yugoslavia lost an authoritative leader, and many previously suppressed ethnic issues surfaced, eventually leading to the independence of various republics (another theory is that it was precisely Tito who deliberately suppressed the largest ethnic group, the Serbs, by carving out Montenegro, Macedonia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina from Serbia, and defining the Muslim Serbs as a distinct ethnicity (Bosniaks) separate from the Orthodox Serbs, weakening the main ethnic group and undermining national cohesion, leading to the loss of authority and eventual disintegration). The reasons for the breakup of Yugoslavia cannot be fully understood during this short trip, but factually, under Tito's leadership, Yugoslavia was once a strong country; now it is split into six small countries. What could be done with the strength of a large country can now only be done with the strength of a small country. The gap is significant, and its international status is far from what it used to be. It is understandable that some people still miss the Tito era.
Entering Serbia, the landscape is flat plains with large cornfields and vineyards on both sides of the road. Lunch was at a Chinese restaurant in Belgrade called Shangri-La. Just before the car stopped, Guide Zheng reminded us that on the right side of the car is the site of the Chinese Embassy in the former Yugoslavia, hit by NATO missiles in 1999. This was on our planned list of visits. On May 7, 1999 (May 8 Beijing time), NATO US bombers fired three precision-guided bombs at the Chinese Embassy in the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, killing three Chinese journalists: Shao Yunhuan, Xu Xinghu, and Zhu Ying. The cause of the incident sparked speculation among the Chinese people. The truth was informally revealed over a decade later: because the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia shot down an American stealth aircraft, the F-117, and handed its wreckage to China, which was temporarily stored in the embassy's basement for research on the most advanced stealth technology. Unexpectedly, although the self-destruct device on the wreckage did not work, its positioning alarm was still functioning, continuously sending signals that attracted the NATO bombers. Fortunately, the bombs did not completely destroy the wreckage. Some sources suggest that China's progress in stealth materials research was accelerated by more than a decade thanks to this, a price paid in blood. The area is now fenced off with metal sheets. Looking through the gaps, the ground is flat, with no trace of the former building. In the middle is a platform with a black marble stele.
On the street corner outside the fence, there is a metal plaque inscribed in local language and Chinese: "We express our gratitude to the People's Republic of China for their friendship and support in the most difficult time of the Republic of Serbia, and we mourn the martyrs who died here." Some withered flowers lie on the ground, left by people who came to pay respects.
Not far away, on the grass, there are several thick concrete pillars with the words "Shandong Expressway" in Chinese, looking very familiar. Soon, a highway built with Chinese aid will pass through here.
Time to visit Tito. Tito's full name is Josip Broz Tito. Born on May 25, 1892, he was a Croat, President of the former Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. During World War II, Tito organized partisan forces, leading the Communist Party and the people in the anti-fascist struggle and achieving victory. After the war, he broke away from Soviet control and built Yugoslavia under the principle of "Yugoslavia for the Yugoslavs," skillfully balancing between East and West. Tito was a strong-willed figure who unified this multi-ethnic, multi-religious country. On the other hand, he pursued personal enjoyment in life, building palaces in every republic, owning private islands, a zoo, and luxury cars. But he also brought hope to his people, earned international respect, and was beloved by the Yugoslav people. Tito died on May 4, 1980. His funeral was attended by 209 delegations from 128 countries. Despite the honor after his death, he did not have a large mausoleum; he was buried in the flower house of the presidential residence on Užička Street in Belgrade, now known as the House of Flowers. Tito's memorial complex is divided into a museum and a burial site. After walking through a grove of tall trees, up a gentle slope, past a fountain, there is a hexagonal platform with six granite stone pillars leaning inward, probably symbolizing the six republics of Yugoslavia.
Climbing the steps, you enter the museum, which loops a newsreel of Tito's life, with many precious historical footage: scenes of socialist construction, industrial and agricultural production, Tito with the people, Tito receiving medals and gifts from various countries, visiting foreign countries including the Great Wall of China, meeting leaders from East and West, etc. These scenes feel very familiar to those of us who lived through that era. Exiting the exhibition hall, continue along a gentle slope. On both sides of the green space are many statues, classical and modern, gifts given to Tito.
After Tito's death, Yugoslavia made a statue of him, replicated many times, placed at all his memorial sites. It depicts Tito in his early image: wearing a military uniform and leather boots, draped in a coat, in a thinking pose, as if pondering Yugoslavia's future. There is one here.
Turning along the path, a small fountain marks the main entrance to the burial site. Behind a purple-red curtain is a glass-roofed hall. Inside is a white marble sarcophagus, with his name and dates (1892-1980) engraved in gold. Next to it is the sarcophagus of his third wife, with whom he lived for 35 years.
This burial site was actually Tito's work and leisure space: the flower house in the middle, the office area on the right, and the living area on the left. On the right, there is his huge desk and bookshelves he used in his lifetime, along with his pens, paper, glasses, and cigars. On the other side, there are nearly a hundred torch gifts presented to him by various countries. His marshal's uniform is displayed in a glass cabinet. The entire burial site appears bright, solemn, simple, and low-key.
In Belgrade, there is a famous attraction: Kalemegdan Fortress, built of stone. The defensive fortifications date back to the Celtic era, later expanded by the Romans. The main part of the fortress was built in the 17th century. It is both an ancient military stronghold and the largest public park in the modern city. After passing through a green area and woods, you reach the outer part of the fortress. On the upper and lower platforms of the city walls and open spaces, various cannons and tanks of different calibers and eras are displayed, all weapons that participated in World War I or II.
Passing through the arched doorway under the spire, you enter the fortress area. The stone of the doorway exudes age. This is the top of the hill, where you can see the confluence of two rivers not far away: the Sava and Danube form a V-shaped fork, with the Sava on the left flowing into the Danube.
This was a strategic military stronghold easy to defend and hard to attack. The fortress was built here. Some parts are ruins of broken walls, while other buildings are well-preserved and still in use. On these stone-built fortifications, plaques are visible everywhere, some built in 1450, some in 1460, and others in 1750.
Two round medieval fortresses are very beautiful, connected to the outer walls by wooden bridges. The internal roads of the fortress are extensive. In the local language, "Kalemeg" means battle, and "dan" means fortress. This battle fortress once resisted the invasion of the Ottoman Empire and embodies the Serbian national spirit.
Tonight we stay at the Belgrade City Hotel near the central railway station. This is a railway station still in use. I'll check it out tomorrow morning.
September 7: Serbia - Zlatibor
Traveling through the valleys, experiencing the past.
In the morning, go to the central railway station opposite the hotel. The station's exterior is a neat Greco-Roman building. Entering the main door is the ticket hall. According to numbers, there are 18 ticket windows. No ticket check at the entrance; you can directly enter the open platform area. Several trains are waiting to depart. The trains look very old and shabby, covered in graffiti. I jumped onto a carriage doorway to take photos; no one minded, very casual. There weren't many people waiting at the station. Compared to our morning subway and buses, people here are too lucky.
Today we drive nearly 200 km to the mountain town of Zlatibor in Serbia, where we will take a mountain train for sightseeing. In the Belgrade urban area, socialist-era residential buildings are everywhere, very similar to those built in the 1970s and 1980s in China: reinforced concrete structures, now called socialist panel blocks.
Soon after leaving the city, hills appear on both sides of the road.
Gradually entering the mountainous area, we arrived at the forest train station in Zlatibor around 1 PM. There is a railway called the Sargan 8 Railway (figure-eight railway), because it forms a figure-eight when passing through the mountains. The railway was built in 1921, 15.5 km long, running through 10 bridges and 22 tunnels. It was the main transport artery connecting the mountainous area with Serbia. In 1974, it was converted into a tourist railway. Our scheduled boarding time is 2 PM. It's a bit early, but we can't have lunch first for fear of missing the train. Let's look around the station. This small station is built on a hillside, reached by climbing through a small tunnel. On the hillside beside the station are rows of characteristic wooden huts. This area was also the set for the 2004 film "Life Is a Miracle" and has been preserved; it's now called "Drvengrad" (Wooden Town).
Getting on the train: the narrow-gauge railway is less than 1 meter wide, with four carriages. The carriages are very old and different from each other: some have wooden hard seats, some have compartments. One carriage even has a coal-burning stove for heating. You can move freely inside the carriages, and even the doors can be opened while the train is moving.
The scenery outside is beautiful: although not dense forest, it's full of greenery. Occasional light rain makes everything look verdant. The train passes several small stations without stopping.
At the end of the track, the locomotive is attached to the last carriage, and the train starts back. On this return leg, at each small station, the train stops for a few minutes, allowing passengers to get off to enjoy the view and rest. Everyone seizes every opportunity to get close to the train, climbing onto the locomotive and striking various poses. Finally, they decide this pose is best and queue up for photos (^_^).
From the observation deck, you can see several tunnel mouths and tracks; this is the bend that forms the figure-eight.
Back at the station at 4 PM. Time for lunch!
This is the first Western meal of our trip, a Serbian specialty lunch. We look forward to it. First, soup is served. A large bread (actually a big leavened pancake) is placed on each table. Many hungry people grab the bread and start eating; the bread is very chewy. I finish the soup first (very salty, with something like short instant noodles at the bottom). The waiter clears the soup plates and brings the main course: a large plate of grilled meat with a little bit of vegetables. Cutting with a knife is hard; it's dry and hard to pull apart with hands. Taking a bite, it tastes of cumin, but I can't tell what meat it is. My tablemate Fangfang asks the waiter—funny enough, not in English, but pointing at the meat and making questioning sounds: "Cluck cluck? Oink?" Even funnier, the waiter quickly understands her question and replies with "Oink, oink." Oh, it's pork! The expression and sounds immediately cause laughter. This specialty meal shocked us. If all future meals are like this, how will we manage?
Tonight we stay at Hotel Palisad in the town of Zlatibor. The Zlatibor region is a leisure and sports center in Serbia, a training base for Serbian basketball and volleyball players, and a ski resort. The town is very beautiful, with a square, a lake, and a row of shops along the lake. Young people everywhere bring vitality to the town.
Evening buffet at the hotel. We had just finished the Serbian specialty meal at the small train station restaurant at around 4 PM; our poor stomachs haven't recovered, so we can only eat some desserts.
September 8: Montenegro: Tara River Canyon - Podgorica
High mountains and deep valleys, a place that evokes memories for a generation.
Today we head south, crossing the border between Serbia and Montenegro, visit the bridge in the Tara River Canyon, then drive over 100 km to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. Montenegro was the last country to become independent during the dissolution of the former Yugoslavia, declaring independence on June 3, 2006. Montenegro covers an area of 13,800 square kilometers, with a population of 650,000. "Montenegro" means black mountain. After entering Montenegro, the road is mostly winding mountain roads. We pass by Montenegro's large open-pit coal mine and the dense residential areas that have grown around the mine.
To better understand today's attraction, Guide Zheng specially played the former Yugoslav film "The Bridge" yesterday on the bus. The film was dubbed by Shanghai Film Studio in 1977 and was one of the first foreign films to enter China after the reform and opening up. Those of us from that era know almost every scene and line by heart. The theme song "Bella Ciao" is something everyone can sing, becoming a symbol of that time. The story is set in 1942 during World War II. German forces in Greece plan to retreat through Yugoslavia to Germany. Yugoslav partisans receive intelligence and send a small team led by "Tiger" to blow up the bridge before the Germans cross, otherwise over 5,000 people would die. Tiger finds the bridge's designer, sees through the enemy's tricks, cleverly deals with the Gestapo, and finally blows up the bridge at the designated time, trapping and annihilating the German forces on the other side. This is a true story that took place in Montenegro's Tara River Canyon. The bridge spans the canyon, built between 1937 and 1941, 365 meters long, 172 meters above the river, with five arches. It was blown up in 1942 and repaired in 1946. The Tara River Canyon Bridge arrives. Seeing the bridge, everyone unanimously praises it using a line from the film: "What a good bridge!"
The bridge is beautifully shaped, crossing over the cliffs on both sides. Below is the sapphire-blue Tara River. The steep cliffs and distant hillsides are covered with green vegetation. Some red and gray pointed-roof houses dot the platform. The bridge blends very naturally with the surrounding landscape.
At one end of the bridge is a black marble bust of a partisan in uniform. There is no English on the monument, but we believe it must be the prototype of the partisan codenamed Tiger, so we all take photos with it.
Walk on the bridge, which is the only road connecting the two sides. As we walk arm in arm, we sing the theme song: "Bella Ciao." Passing tourists and locals happily wave to us, some clapping to the beat; they must also resonate with it.
Lunch is at a restaurant at the bridgehead. Eating lunch beside the bridge, enjoying the scenery, imagining where the Gestapo once set up checkpoints, imagining the fallen partisan dropping from the bridge, imagining the engineer pressing the detonator, seeing the bridge as it is now, the peaceful scene on both sides, touching the bridge with our hands—it's very moving. This is history. Our Yugoslav complex is satisfied today.
On the way to Podgorica, everyone is still excited. Allen takes out his harmonica and plays for everyone. The whole bus starts singing, from movie songs to old songs to revolutionary songs, one after another. It's extraordinary joy. The scenery along the way is very beautiful: big mountains, sometimes huge exposed rocks, sometimes fragmented and layered. The riverbanks reveal the formation of the valley: water erosion creates huge cavities; when they collapse, the river widens.
At a construction site, Chinese characters make us feel warm: "Build roads and bridges, contribute to society; people-oriented, pursue excellence." A Chinese company is building roads here. Even in such a remote valley, we see a Chinese engineering company. The motherland is indeed strong.
Arrive in Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro, a flat area surrounded by mountains, covering 1,600 square kilometers, with a population of only 160,000. It seems some event is happening in the city; the road is restricted and the tour bus cannot pass, so we have to walk. People sitting at street corners look like Chinese traffic wardens and neighborhood watch volunteers. We are going to visit an old mosque and Turkish clock tower from the Ottoman period.
Guide Zheng didn't get off at the usual spot; he's a bit disoriented. He asks a passerby, who leads us into the alleys. A mosque appears. It doesn't look that old; it's too simple. It's a miracle it has survived for centuries.
Walking along the street, ahead is a patch of ancient-looking ruins extending to the river. At a bend, a relatively intact fortress remains. This was a defensive fortification during the Ottoman period. The Morača River flows below. An old bridge, with a short Roman column beside it, tells of its glorious history.
Return to the hotel. On the street stands a minaret from the Ottoman Turkish period, typical Islamic style. One can imagine the mosque must have been quite large then; now it looks a bit out of place with the surrounding buildings. This is the old town area, with buildings in the socialist panel block style.
Stay at the Ramada Hotel. There is a mall next to the hotel. In the evening, we go to check it out. It's very familiar—not just the building, but the stalls and goods are very familiar, much like Baigou (a wholesale market in China).
September 9: Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo
Visit the site of major historical events; this is where ethnic conflicts and religious clashes are most intense.
This morning, we have an important task: to pick up Mr. Sun's luggage at the airport. It's important because five days have passed since we discovered the luggage didn't board the plane. Originally, it was supposed to arrive at Belgrade Airport on the 7th. Mr. Sun and the national guide, Liu, sacrificed their sightseeing time to go there, but still didn't see the luggage. The next whereabouts of the luggage were uncertain. We've been calling about the luggage these days, and the domestic travel agency has also been helping to track it. Finally, today we got news. The suitcase hasn't been idle these two days; it flew to Austria via Austrian Airlines and then transferred to Podgorica Airport. I really admire Mr. Sun. A quarter of our trip has passed, and he still hasn't seen his luggage, yet his mood hasn't been affected at all; he remains very calm. He used to be a pilot and has seen a lot. His attitude of insisting on his claim while accepting reality is the necessary psychological quality for traveling, truly worth learning.
This is the airport office area, not allowing outsiders. Invited by Mr. and Mrs. Sun, I accompany them to the office area to collect the luggage.
The lost and found office has the lights on but is locked. We ask someone, and the answer is that the person is inside the airport, attending to a flight, and will come after finishing.
We start waiting at 8:50. Everyone passing by politely nods and smiles. We look forward to someone approaching this direction. No, not them. A kind person tells us they have called the person, who will be here in 5 minutes. Well, after waiting over 40 minutes, a young woman finally approaches. Guide Zheng greets her and says we're looking for the suitcase. She says she knows, knows. Opens the door, only allows Mr. Sun to go in to claim it. An orange-red large suitcase is rolled out.
Open and confirm it's correct. Let's go! All group members in the parking lot applaud to welcome the late suitcase back. Everyone is relieved.
Montenegro only proposed joining NATO in 2015. Although located in Europe, it is neither an EU member nor in the eurozone, yet it uses the euro. This is because Montenegro previously used the German mark as its national currency, and when the German mark was replaced by the euro, Montenegro automatically switched to the euro. This is a peculiar phenomenon in Europe. The capital of Montenegro, Podgorica, was named Titograd during the Yugoslav era, showing its close relationship with its former ally Serbia. Since separating from Serbia, Montenegro's national strength has declined significantly, with a drop in living standards and economic levels. This was also evident during our trip in Serbia in the previous days (the breakup of the former Yugoslavia had a huge impact on every former Yugoslav country). Leaving Podgorica, we enter the mountains. Most of the roads are rural roads. Our 50-plus-seat bus feels very narrow on these rural roads. Olive trees and grazing cattle and sheep line the roads. This area is relatively isolated, with a low standard of living.
Reach the Montenegrin border. According to Guide Zheng, the customs here probably haven't seen Chinese people before (we are indeed on a very niche travel route). Exiting is relatively convenient: collect everyone's passports, check them one by one on the computer, but very slow.
Clearance. About 200 meters ahead is the Bosnia and Herzegovina border.
The Bosnia and Herzegovina border, like the Montenegrin border, is just a row of houses on a rural road. Vehicles entering Bosnia and Herzegovina are strictly inspected. One incoming car had its hood and trunk open, and even then, all luggage had to be taken out and searched one by one. There are two tour buses ahead of us. We worry it will take forever if they check that way. When it's our turn, the guide collects everyone's passports and gets off with the driver. We wait a long time. Inside the room, an officer flips through the passports one by one, making us anxious. The bus is getting very hot. Guide Liu manages to open the middle roof vent. Without a support, he tries to prop it open with a bottle of mineral water, but accidentally drops it off the bus.
This attracts the attention of an officer, who walks straight toward the bus. The driver also notices the water bottle, picks it up, and leads the officer around to the other side of the bus, opening the luggage compartment door. We all think this is it; they're going to open the luggage. But the driver simply picks up a case of mineral water and gives it to the officer. The officer walks back with measured steps. After waiting an hour, we can finally leave. Looking at the three buses behind us, we are secretly glad we arrived earlier than them. Because of the time spent picking up luggage at the airport and waiting at the border, we missed lunch. The originally scheduled Chinese meal is moved to dinner. We just grab a quick bite at a gas station. Everyone selects bread, drinks, and coffee. But making over 20 cups of freshly ground coffee all at once causes the coffee machine to overheat and trip (probably never handled such a workload before).
Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) gained independence from Yugoslavia in 1992. It borders Serbia, Montenegro, and Croatia. This region is home to Bosniaks (Muslims, near Montenegro), Serbs (Orthodox Christians, near Serbia), and Croats (Catholics, near Croatia). It has long had complex ethnic conflicts and religious issues. The Serbs strongly opposed independence from Yugoslavia, leading to the Bosnian War. The Serbs, supported by the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, had regular forces and heavy weapons, with a decisive advantage, quickly controlling 70% of the territory. The Bosniaks and Croats formed an alliance and received multiple aids. The war lasted four years. In 1995, after various UN pressure measures failed, the Security Council authorized NATO to conduct air strikes to stop the war. External intervention, especially NATO air power, forced the Serbs to sign a peace agreement. Ultimately, Bosnia and Herzegovina continued to exist as a unified independent sovereign state, internally divided into two entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Bosniak-Croat Federation) and the Republika Srpska. The Bosnian War was the largest regional war in Europe since World War II, causing over 200,000 deaths and over 2 million refugees. Traces of the war can still be seen in the area today.
The capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo, lies in the Sarajevo Valley, in the Serb-dominated area (Orthodox).
Our generation's familiarity with Sarajevo naturally comes first from the film "Walter Defends Sarajevo." The most famous piece of history here is, of course, the Sarajevo incident of 1914, which triggered World War I. Later today, we will pay respects to the statue of the prototype of Walter, touch the Latin Bridge where the Sarajevo incident occurred, and visit the mosque, blacksmith street, and other locations from the film.
Driving into the city, there are buildings from different periods. Socialist panel blocks are also common here, and many such buildings still have bullet holes from the Bosnian War on their facades.
The trams here are the oldest means of transport in Sarajevo. In 1878, Sarajevo became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In 1885, the Austro-Hungarian Empire tested trams here before using them in Vienna. Trams remain one of the main public transport modes in the city.
The Miljacka River flows east-west through the city. At a street corner by the river stands a white statue of the hero who defended Sarajevo: Walter.
Walking along the river, there are several bridges: the old iron bridge (Skenderija) built in 1893,
the modern art bridge (Festival Bridge) in front of the Academy of Fine Arts,
the wooden bridge built in 1557, later rebuilt and renamed as an iron bridge (Čobanija).
Walking along the river, we pass the University of Sarajevo, the Academy of Fine Arts, the General Post Office, the Sarajevo Theater, etc.
Finally, we arrive at the site of the most important historical event—the Latin Bridge.
On April 28, 1914, on the north side of this bridge, Gavrilo Princip, a Serb, assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, and his wife. This event became the trigger for World War I. At the time, Princip was considered a national hero; the bridge was once named Princip's Bridge. After the breakup of Yugoslavia, Princip was seen as a Serb extremist, and the bridge was renamed back to Latin Bridge. It was originally a wooden bridge, washed away by floods, rebuilt in 1798, now a stone bridge. Opposite the stone bridge is the former Princip Museum, now renamed the National Museum. In its window, a slide show continuously plays old photos of the event and figures. Stopping to watch, it's very moving. 100 years have passed; the bridge still stands, but the world has changed. It is a witness to real history.
Facing the stone bridge is the most famous old town of Sarajevo, Baščaršija, an old commercial street built in the 16th century. In the center of the street is a unique fountain built in 1891, the Sebilj fountain, a landmark of Sarajevo (I didn't recognize it as a fountain and almost missed it).
Because Sarajevo was founded by the Ottoman Empire in 1450, early buildings here have Islamic characteristics. There is the beautiful Bey's Mosque (Begova Džamija) built in 1531,
a busy old market with a dazzling array of local handmade crafts. This is also the setting for several main scenes in "Walter Defends Sarajevo." In the film, the partisan contact, a clockmaker, goes to meet someone disguised as a Gestapo agent to protect Walter; the meeting point is this mosque. The clockmaker is shot dead in the courtyard in front of the mosque (I thought it was a square, but it's actually the small courtyard of this mosque). Walter runs to the top of the clock tower to fight the enemy, finally sliding down a rope from the tower, jumping onto the large green dome of the mosque, and escaping into a narrow street lined with shops on both sides. To cover Walter, people in each small shop sit and hammer metal plates and tools, making the Gestapo helpless. Here, we can see the tall clock tower, the mosque's large green dome like a pot lid, and the narrow, still busy blacksmith street—all very familiar. I buy a hand-engraved metal plate as a souvenir.
September 10: Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mostar
Ancient and modern, war and peace.
In the morning, look around the hotel. In the morning mist, you can see the dense residential buildings on the hillsides of Sarajevo's old town—scenes from "Walter Defends Sarajevo." This city has survived the flames of World War I, World War II, and the Bosnian War; despite its ordeal, it remains beautiful.
During the Ottoman Turkish expansion in the 15th century, locals were forced to convert to Islam, or be eliminated as inferior peoples. Many Serbs, Albanians, etc., changed their faith. This group had conflicts with the Serbs (who considered them traitors). During Tito's time, these Muslim Serbs were given a new name: Muslimani (Bosniaks). After the Bosnian War, the Bosniaks and Croats formed a federation (the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina), sharing power with the Serbs (Republika Srpska), still united under Bosnia and Herzegovina. The areas we are in now, Sarajevo and today's destination Mostar, are under Bosniak control.
Walking on the mountain roads, the scenery is very beautiful. Houses are built on the hillsides, life appears peaceful and serene.
Many villages along the road have large cemeteries, with vast numbers of thin white stone tombstones pointing to the sky. From time to time, we see bullet holes on walls and damaged houses, reminding people not to forget the over 200,000 people who lost their lives in that ethnic war, and not to forget the war.
Pass through Konjic, a beautiful town built on the Jablaničko Lake, from which water flows into the Neretva River.
The Neretva River is a river in northern Bosnia and Herzegovina, 230 km long, with only 22 km in Slovenia. The Battle of Neretva during World War II took place near Konjic on this river. It was a large-scale battle between the Yugoslav People's Army and the German-Italian occupiers and Yugoslav collaborators, and a famous anti-fascist battle. Chased by German, Italian, and collaborator forces, over 20,000 partisans including Tito were surrounded by over 80,000 enemy troops near the Neretva River. The Germans expected the partisans to break out via the Jablanički Bridge upstream, so they amassed troops on both sides of the river to annihilate them. Under Tito's leadership, the partisans were not intimidated. They tried every means to break out. The Jablanički Bridge was the only escape route, but with enemy troops ambushed on both sides, crossing was almost impossible. Tito used a tactic: he ordered the partisans to gather near the bridge, then ordered the bridge to be blown up, and sent a small force to feign attack in the north, creating the impression of a last stand. The enemy fell for it, moving their troops from the opposite bank to block elsewhere. After the enemy withdrew, the partisans built a suspension bridge at the blown-up bridge site under cover of night, and the main force and wounded crossed the Neretva River safely. By the time the enemy arrived, the partisans were gone. We are now on the banks of the Neretva River, at the site of the broken bridge from the World War II battlefield. We are on the north bank, an open area. Across the river is a large mountain gully. It's easy to imagine the partisans retreating into the mountains where they would thrive. The broken iron bridge in front of us is a witness to that history.
There is now a museum here displaying artifacts and the history of that battle. A large open platform has a monument on the ground.
On the north bank, a narrow-gauge railway and a locomotive tell that this was once a railway bridge.
The broken iron bridge: on the south bank, one end remains on the shore, the other end is submerged in the water, with part of the bridge body lying in the river. The bridge and rails are rusty.
There was a fierce battle involving tens of thousands of people here. If not for this trip, I would know nothing about this history. That's the charm of travel.
Continue along the Neretva River for about an hour, arriving at Mostar in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Mostar is the fifth largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. People began to settle here in the early 15th century. After 1878, it became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After WWI, it became a city in Yugoslavia. Population: 128,000. The old town once had 20 bridges; after WWI, WWII, and the Bosnian War, 12 remain. Today we are active in the old town. This is a mixed area of Bosniaks (Muslim) and Croats (Catholic). Mosques and churches are everywhere. Passing a Catholic church with a tall bell tower, named the Mostar Peace Bell Tower, 107 m high.
Walking ahead, we see a wall full of bullet holes, traces of the Bosnian War. This is the outer wall of a small restaurant, making it hard to connect the peaceful scene with the war.
Enter the pedestrian street of the small town. Today is Saturday, very lively. The guide warns us not to disband, eat first then sightseeing. Going through such a characteristic street while keeping the group together is a challenge!
The place we eat is really great! On one side of the Neretva River, with a view of the most famous bridge—Stari Most (Old Bridge). On the other side is a lively market and church. Sitting under a pergola, watching the blue-green river flowing below, drinking beer—very pleasant.
Lunch is Western: soup and bread (no one grabs a whole bread anymore), main course is a fish, fries, and tomatoes, black tea. This is the most satisfactory Western meal so far; the fried fish is very fresh.
We agreed to have dinner here as well. For now, we can't stay long; we need to see the sights and shop. Free time now. First, see the bridge. Stari Most was built in 1566, spanning cliffs on both sides with a 28-meter arch, 20 meters above the river, 4 meters wide, like a rainbow across the canyon. It was blown up on November 9, 1993 during the Bosnian War. After the 1996 peace agreement, it was decided to rebuild it. Completion in 2004. In 2005, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Walking on the bridge, the old stones are polished mirror-smooth. To prevent slipping, raised stone strips are added every 30-40 cm (very necessary).
The bridge is crowded. Several young people collect tips from passersby; they perform diving. Every time they collect 10 euros, one of them dives off the bridge—a 20-meter high dive! The sun is hot today.
After crossing the bridge, I quickly step into an air-conditioned shop to cool down. This shop sells silverware; engraved silver coffee sets are very beautiful. I buy one. Further on, I see copper engraved colored plates, very local. I buy another. It starts to rain heavily, with bubbles all over the ground. Everyone takes shelter in a small shop. While idle, the group starts a shopping spree, buying various items. The shopkeeper must be very grateful for this timely rain.
Later, the sun comes out, then rain again. Shopping is mostly done while sheltering from rain or sun. Can't miss taking photos. Find the best spot to photograph the bridge. Constantly see divers jumping off the bridge; looks like business is good today.
Wandering aimlessly along small paths, an old stone bridge appears, covered with moss in the stone joints. A plaque shows it was built in 1558. From the 16th to 17th centuries, it was a major north-south, east-west traffic artery with strategic significance. The bridge is a semi-circular arch imitating Roman style, span 8.43 m, height 4.21 m, made of hand-cut stones stacked with concrete. Damaged in the Bosnian War, the original bridge collapsed in a torrential rain on December 31, 1999. In 2002, with UNESCO help, the bridge and its surroundings were restored to their pre-1967 appearance.
The old town is full of history everywhere you look. Dinner at the same place. Enjoying the breeze, drinking beer, eating grilled meat salad, watching the flow of people on the river and bridge, feeling very satisfied. Thanks to A Liang and the travel agency for this balanced travel pace.
Before returning to the bus, we see the bullet-riddled wall again. It feels a huge contrast to real life. Peace is truly wonderful.
Stay at Hotel Mostar.
September 11: Croatia: Split
Here lies the final days of the instigator who split the Roman Empire into East and West.
Leave Mostar in the morning. Mountain roads everywhere, with exposed rocks—karst landscape. The hilltops are gentle, trees not too tall. Many vineyards, these are wine-producing regions. Grapes were introduced during the Ottoman period. Traditional winemaking methods; wine needs decanting after opening.
Approaching the Croatian border area, mostly inhabited by Catholic Croats. You can see statues of the Virgin Mary on mountain roads.
Near the Croatian border, the quality of houses is noticeably better, with less war damage. At the border, exiting Bosnia and Herzegovina customs took almost an hour, similar to two days ago. Entering Croatia customs took only 20 minutes, clearly showing the difference between the two countries. During the Yugoslav era, Croatia and Slovenia were two relatively prosperous regions. Croatia has a 1,777 km coastline, 1,185 islands (46 inhabited), area 59,650 sq km, population 4.28 million. In the 14th century, Croatia was part of the Republic of Venice. The most familiar Venetian merchant, Marco Polo, was from Croatia. Croatia joined the EU as the 28th member on July 1, 2013, but is not in the eurozone; its currency is the kuna, exchange rate 1 euro = 7.3 kuna, roughly equal to the Chinese yuan. After about an hour on the highway, exit and drive 15 km to the coastal city of Split, an important seaport. Legend says God forgot to give this land to the people when distributing, so He gave them His own garden, indicating its beauty. We will visit Diocletian's Palace.
Diocletian was proclaimed Roman Emperor in 284 AD. He changed the title from princeps to emperor, introduced Eastern autocratic court ceremonies, and was the first to call himself emperor (before that, they were principes). He proposed the Tetrarchy, dividing the Roman Empire into East and West, each ruled by a senior emperor (Augustus) and a junior emperor (Caesar). He appointed himself as the senior emperor of the East. Both senior emperors established new capitals (neither chose Rome). His Tetrarchy became the main political system in the later Roman Empire, and he was the instigator of the eventual split into Eastern and Western Roman Empires, but it also allowed the Eastern Roman Empire to last for several centuries. In 305 AD, after 20 years of rule, he voluntarily abdicated at age 55, the only Roman emperor to voluntarily give up power. After him, Constantine I defeated his rivals and became the sole ruler. Diocletian's Palace was where Diocletian lived after retirement. Construction began in 293 AD, completed in 305 AD. The palace was built to Roman military fortress standards, covering 38,000 sq m. It is roughly square, with one side facing the sea. The gate facing the sea is called the Sea Gate; the wall on that side is 18 m high. Exiting the Sea Gate, you could directly board a ship; now it's land. The other side is the Land Gate; the wall there is 22 m high.
We enter through the Land Gate. At the gate stands a tall bronze statue. Guide Zheng says it's Archbishop Gregory (looking it up later, the first Gregory I was Pope from 590-604, which doesn't match Diocletian; not sure why he stands here).
People passing by touch his toes, which are shiny from repeated contact. Someone asks why only the toes. I think the answer is correct: he is so tall; you can't reach any other part!
The main gate is not grand; just an arched opening in the wall with a lintel.
Winding through, we arrive at a small square. On left and right are Roman columns. Outside the left colonnade is the entrance to a large church (Cathedral of St. Domnius). On the right, adjoining the colonnade, is a later building, clearly from a different period, now a café.
Ahead is a Greek-style propylaeum with steps dividing the entrance into upper and lower parts. Entering the palace from below—feels like going into a basement?
A series of arched structures form a main passage. Walking along the passage, on both sides are large spaces with vaulted ceilings. Large square stones form pillars, with thin stone slabs used for arches. On the walls, thin stone slabs also form windows.
We see square stone blocks with a central hole on the ground. A sign says these were the drainage system in ancient times, probably the prototype of modern pipes.
This is architecture from the early 4th century AD, over 1,700 years old. After the 7th century, the palace was damaged, many parts replaced, and civilians once took refuge inside. I'm not clear on this history, and the guide didn't give much detail. We only know that the direction we entered is the emperor's audience hall. Further ahead is the emperor's bedroom and Diocletian's mausoleum. Looking around, the empty stone chambers all look similar. It's hard to imagine how people lived here. After leaving the palace, free time.
Split is a coastal city. Outside the palace is a seaside area for leisure, with restaurants, cafés, and souvenir kiosks one after another.
