Three Months in Europe, Part 6: Budapest – Iron and Roses on the Danube

📍 Budapest · 👁 538 reads

Continued from: Three Months in Europe, Part 5: Tuscany's Sun and the Spirit of the Renaissance: Venice

Bidding farewell to the gentle waves of the Adriatic Sea, we boarded a bus heading to the heart of Central Europe. As the long-distance bus crossed the bridge connecting to the mainland, that dream floating on the water slowly closed its curtains behind us. The scenery outside the window gradually transformed from the shimmering lagoon to the vast plains. The eight-hour journey was like a long silent film, quietly carrying us from a romantic tale woven by canals to a dream of the Danube, imperial glory, and bronze epics – Budapest.

Budapest, the capital of Hungary, is known as the "Pearl of the Danube." It consists of the hilly Buda on the right (west) bank and the flat Pest on the left (east) bank, connected by eight bridges including the Chain Bridge, Elizabeth Bridge, and Liberty Bridge, forming this charming Central European metropolis. The magnificent Danube embankment, the Buda Castle Quarter, and Andrássy Avenue (including the M1 metro line) are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

In Venice, we stayed at the Best Western Hotel Tritone, opposite the Venezia Mestre railway station. 200m from the Mestre station is the long-distance bus station. We bought tickets on the Flix Bus official website app and took a Flix Bus to Budapest.

The bus stopped at a small town in Slovenia, which had a supermarket and restaurants. We got off to stretch our legs and have some coffee.

After an eight-hour journey, we arrived at the Budapest Kelenföld Bus station (Flix Bus 2nd platform). We walked about 300 meters to Kelenföld vasútállomás M metro station and took the M4 line to Budapest Keleti railway station.

The Intercity Hotel Budapest is 230 meters from Keleti station, convenient for taking the train to Vienna and for getting around.

Buda Castle sits on Castle Hill, covering two-thirds of the area. It was first built in 1247 by King Béla IV of Hungary to defend against the Mongol invasion. Later, Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund converted the original building into a Gothic palace. From 1541 to 1686, during the Ottoman occupation of Buda, the castle was used as a barracks and mosque. In the 17th century, the Habsburgs drove out the Turks and rebuilt the castle in Baroque style. The Castle District has become a sanctuary for religion, politics, science, culture, and art. It houses many historic buildings, such as Matthias Church, the Hungarian National Gallery, the Széchenyi National Library, the Budapest History Museum, the Fisherman's Bastion with its seven towers, and the Sándor Palace, the official residence of the Hungarian President.

The Széchenyi Chain Bridge is the first permanent stone bridge in Budapest and an undeniable symbol of the city. At each end of the bridge stand two pairs of huge stone lion sculptures, created by sculptor János Marsalkó, finely carved and majestic. Walking across the bridge, you can closely admire the lions and the exquisite steel chain structure.

The views of Buda Castle and the Parliament Building from the bridge are excellent. Crossing the Chain Bridge leads directly to Buda Castle.

To reach the Castle District, you can take the Budavári Sikló, a funicular railway that opened in 1870, the second urban funicular in Europe.

There are not many restaurants near the castle; we had to walk a bit to find one. If we had known, we would have had breakfast in Pest.

We did not take the funicular; we walked up the hill.

The Riding School was built in the early 1900s, a fusion of Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles.

The Lion Courtyard is named after the lion statue in the square.

The Budapest History Museum is arranged around the central Lion Courtyard on three levels. First floor: Medieval Buda; Second floor: Modern Budapest; Basement: Medieval palace ruins.

The true marvel of the Castle District lies underground: a labyrinthine cave system, about 15 meters beneath the entire city. Since the Middle Ages, this vast network of cellars has been interconnected and used for various purposes: ossuaries, dungeons, shelters, and even wine cellars. The natural caves also contain thermal springs, adding to the area's charm and mystery.

St. Stephen's Hall is located in the south wing of Buda Castle and is considered the pinnacle of Hungarian culture and applied arts.

St. Stephen's Hall was built at the turn of the century, its interior shining with Romanesque splendor, but Hungarian characteristics are also everywhere. The finest Hungarian craftsmen of the 19th century created this impressive hall. Unfortunately, St. Stephen's Hall was completely destroyed during World War II. In 2021, the historic building was reconstructed. In this luxurious hall, the walls are covered with Zsolnay fire-gilded granite murals depicting the kings and saints of the Árpád dynasty. In the center stands a 2-meter-wide, 4.5-meter-high Zsolnay fireplace adorned with a bust of St. Stephen. The room also retains its original design with intricate parquet floors, various masterpieces of applied art, and unique furniture and curtains.

The entrance is at the Matthias Fountain.

St. Stephen's Hall cannot be visited independently; there is a designated path, and each visitor has a reserved time slot to listen to explanations on a tablet and tour the museum.

Waiting in Hunyadi Court.

St. Stephen's Hall fireplace.

St. Stephen's Hall.

Leaving St. Stephen's Hall, we look down from the castle to the Danube and the Chain Bridge.

On the south side of the small square is an entrance to the old royal palace. Walking on the cobblestones of the Palace Square, you can see from afar the Turul bird sculpture, built in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Hungarian settlement in the Carpathian Basin.

This sculpture of an eagle with spread wings is associated with a Hungarian legend. Legend has it that in 896 AD, an eagle (turul) led the seven tribes of the Magyars under Grand Prince Árpád out of the Asian steppes to this land. Then, the sword dropped from the eagle's beak fell on Castle Hill, indicating that the Magyars should settle here, marking the beginning of the history of the Kingdom of Hungary.

Sándor Palace was built between 1803 and 1806 and is currently the official residence and office of the President of Hungary.

The west gate of Sándor Palace.

The Independence War Monument, also known as the "Statue of the Honvéd (Honour Warrior)," is located at Dísz Square in the Castle District. It commemorates the struggle of Hungarian soldiers (honvéds) for freedom during the Hungarian War of Independence of 1848-1849, especially the recapture of Buda Castle on May 21, 1849. Although the revolution was eventually suppressed with Russian support, the recapture of Buda Castle remains a symbol of Hungarian resistance.

The Fisherman's Bastion was built between 1895 and 1902. Designed in Neo-Romanesque style, it has seven distinct towers symbolizing important figures in Hungarian history. The seven conical roofs represent the seven chieftains who conquered the Carpathian Basin.

Unfortunately, the Fisherman's Bastion was severely damaged in World War II, but due to its importance, it was restored in a very short time. Since 1987, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage site together with the Buda Castle Quarter.

The Fisherman's Bastion and the bronze statue of King Stephen I.

Holy Trinity Square, adjacent to Matthias Church and the Fisherman's Bastion, is the historical and cultural center of the area, known for its monuments, Baroque architecture, and vibrant atmosphere.

In the center of the square stands the Holy Trinity Column, the first permanent monument in Buda Castle, erected in 1706 after the plague of 1691.

Matthias Church was originally built in 1015. The current Gothic structure was constructed in the second half of the 14th century and underwent major renovations in the late 19th century. It is the second largest medieval church in Buda. This church was the site of important coronations, such as those of Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) in 1867, and the last Habsburg monarch, Charles I, in 1916. It was also the venue for Matthias I's two weddings (first to Catherine of Poděbrady, and after her death, to Beatrice of Aragon).

The architectural style of Matthias Church is extremely unique, blending Neo-Gothic, Neo-Romanesque, and other styles, and wonderfully incorporating Hungarian national elements with Oriental Islamic inspiration.

The stained glass windows depict saints and biblical scenes with brilliant colors.

The frescoes and icons were created by famous painters like Károly Lotz, showcasing the essence of the Neo-Renaissance style.

We were fortunate to listen to sacred music within this magnificent building – a profoundly moving experience.

The wall of royal coats of arms displays the heraldry of successive Hungarian rulers, like a visual history of dynasties.

Matthias Church is known as the "Coronation Church." In 1867, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria-Hungary and Empress Elisabeth (the famous "Princess Sisi") were crowned here as King and Queen of Hungary. This coronation marked the establishment of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and holds great historical significance.

The diamond-patterned colored tile roof is the most striking feature of Matthias Church. The roof is covered with approximately 150,000 handmade colored glazed tiles arranged in exquisite geometric patterns. This pattern, influenced by Islamic art from the Ottoman period, is extremely rare in European churches and a unique hallmark of the church.

Walking on Castle Hill.

After visiting the entire castle, we walked down the hill.

The Alle Shopping Center at Batthyány Square.

St. Anne's Church at Batthyány Square.

We arrived at the Danube, with the majestic Parliament building on the opposite bank.

St. Anne's Church, located at Batthyány Square, was built in 1761. With its twin towers, it is considered one of the most beautiful Baroque buildings in the capital and a landmark of the Buda cityscape. Walking along the streets of Víziváros towards Castle Hill, the church's towers appear from time to time, offering delightful views from various angles.

A day at the castle was very tiring. Budapest's cuisine suits Asian tastes; we found a restaurant for a hearty meal.

Exterior of the Hungarian Parliament Building.

It wasn't time for the tour yet, so we first walked along the Danube. The Danube embankment between the Chain Bridge and Margaret Bridge is a World Heritage site with stunning views. This is the best place to photograph Buda Castle.

The Reformed Church at Szilágyi Dezső Square, built in Neo-Gothic style, was completed in 1896 and is one of the gems of the Buda embankment. It is easily recognizable from afar because it is built of red brick and has a roof covered with Zsolnay tiles.

One of Budapest's famous Holocaust memorials: the bronze shoes on the Danube bank, a poignant record of a tragic history.

Tourists listening to a guide.

At Kossuth Square, the Kossuth Monument commemorates former Hungarian President and Regent Lajos Kossuth, who played a key role in Hungary's struggle for independence in the 19th century.

Playing with the spray fountain at Kossuth Square with children.

The equestrian statue of Ferenc Rákóczi II in the square.

Ferenc Rákóczi II led the Kuruc uprising of 1703-1711, the last and largest war of independence against the Habsburgs in Hungarian history.

The Hungarian Parliament Building, the "House of the Nation," on the banks of the Danube is an iconic landmark of Budapest's World Heritage site, the seat of the legislature, and the guardian of the Holy Crown of Hungary.

The interior and exterior of the Hungarian Parliament are richly decorated. Its design was inspired by the British Parliament, primarily Neo-Gothic, but also incorporating Renaissance and Baroque elements. Today, it is the third largest parliament building in the world. Built to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Hungarian state, it was designed by architect Imre Steindl. The entire building is filled with exquisite mosaics, sculptures, frescoes, tapestries, and crystal chandeliers, every detail reflecting the highest craftsmanship of the time.

The building is monumental: maximum width 123 meters, extending 271 meters along the Danube, with a dome height of 96 meters. The Parliament blends various architectural styles: its floor plan is Baroque, the exterior incorporates Gothic elements, and the ceiling decorations feature Renaissance characteristics. On either side of the dome, the Upper and Lower House chambers are identical in design, symbolizing the equal rights of the two houses. The exterior walls are adorned with 90 stone statues representing great figures from Hungarian history.

The central domed hall is the most important and spectacular part of the building. It houses Hungary's most precious national treasures: the Holy Crown of St. Stephen, along with the coronation orb, scepter, and sword (no photography allowed). The dome, supported by 16 marble columns, is majestic and serves as the hub of the entire building.

This is a panoramic view of the Parliament taken from the Buda side across the river.

The entire tour follows a guide, allowing you to admire the grand ceremonial staircase, the breathtaking domed hall, and see the Holy Crown of Hungary up close.

During construction, no expense was spared; about 40 kg of 23-karat gold was used.

The main staircase features grand marble steps flanked by gilded Corinthian colonnades. The ceiling is decorated with magnificent frescoes, exuding royal splendor.

The Upper House Hall: Although the Upper House was abolished in the 1940s, this hall has been perfectly preserved. The interior is extremely luxurious, with ornate gilded wood carvings, red velvet, and huge frescoes depicting Hungarian historical events.

The Chamber of Deputies (where members now work in newly built offices) is also impressive, allowing a firsthand look at the working environment of the Hungarian legislature.

After visiting the Parliament, we crossed Liberty Square to St. Stephen's Basilica.

The Soviet War Memorial in Liberty Square.

St. Stephen's Basilica.

Stalls around Liberty Square.

The interactive fountain in Liberty Square, with the Monument to the Victims of the German Occupation in the background.

St. Stephen's Basilica is a Catholic basilica in Budapest, named after Hungary's first king, Stephen I (975–1038), whose mummified right hand is enshrined here. Along with the Hungarian Parliament, it is one of the two tallest buildings in Budapest, standing 96 meters high, 55 meters wide, and 87.4 meters long. It was completed in 1905 after a construction period of 54 years. The main delay was the collapse of the dome in 1868, which required the demolition of completed work and reconstruction from the foundations. Its architectural style is Neoclassical, with a Greek cross layout. The facade has two large bell towers. The south tower houses the largest bell in Hungary, weighing over 9 tons.

Above the main altar stands a white marble statue of King St. Stephen, holding an apostolic cross, symbolizing the consecration of Hungary to the Virgin Mary.

The church houses a large organ with a very powerful sound. Unfortunately, we did not get to hear its music.

The interior of the dome is decorated with magnificent frescoes depicting biblical scenes.

This is the church's greatest treasure. In a dedicated chapel called the "Holy Right Chapel," the mummified right hand of King St. Stephen is preserved. The relic is kept in an exquisitely crafted, jewel-encrusted, gilded reliquary. For Hungarians, this is the supreme symbol of nation and faith.

This famous ice cream shop is near the basilica.

Andrássy Avenue is a iconic boulevard in Budapest, dating back to 1872. It connects Deák Ferenc Square and the City Park, lined with beautiful Neo-Renaissance palaces and houses. This charming avenue is filled with luxury shops, fashion boutiques, restaurants, and cultural institutions.

St. Stephen's Basilica.

The Hungarian State Opera House was built between 1875 and 1884 in Neo-Renaissance style with Baroque elements. Although not the largest in size or capacity, the Budapest Opera House is considered one of the world's top opera houses in terms of beauty and acoustic quality.

Shijiu is an Asian-fusion restaurant, a bit pricey but with generous portions.

Budapest's metro system is the second oldest in Europe (the oldest is the London Underground). The original line is the current M1 (yellow line), which opened in 1896. It has now been restored to its original appearance and preserved as a piece of history.

The M1 line was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2002, making it the only metro line in the world designated as a World Heritage site.

We transferred from M1 to M2 to return to the hotel.

In the morning, we took the M2 line to Buda's Gellért Hill.

The Gellért Thermal Bath is located at the foot of Gellért Hill. Built between 1912 and 1918, its interior is designed in Art Nouveau style with exquisite mosaics, stained glass, and sculptures, resembling a palace.

The Liberty Bridge was built between 1894 and 1896, using the then most aesthetically pleasing chain-link bridge design. Emperor Franz Joseph I attended the opening ceremony and personally installed the last silver rivet. The bridge was originally named after the emperor. After World War II, it was renamed "Liberty Bridge," symbolizing liberation from war. The bridge is 333.6 meters long and 20.1 meters wide. The tops of the bridge piers are decorated with four bronze statues of the Turul bird from ancient Hungarian mythology.

The two ends of the bridge are Gellért Square and Fővám Square.

The Cave Church is a unique church built into a natural cave. It was built by the Pauline Order in 1926. It was closed during the communist era, and the sculpture in front was removed. It was only reopened in the 1990s, and the current sculpture in front was rebuilt later.

Looking back from the hillside, the unique dome of the Gellért Thermal Bath is very distinctive.

From the observation platform overlooking all of Budapest, you can enjoy the magnificent views of the Danube, Liberty Bridge, Chain Bridge, Buda Castle, and Pest. The phone photo didn't turn out well.

Elizabeth Bridge, with its pure white color and simple curves, stands out elegantly on the Danube. Its architectural style is modern suspension bridge. It is the most simply shaped of the three bridges. It was named after Empress Elizabeth (Sisi) of Austria-Hungary, beloved by the Hungarian people, in her memory. The original bridge was a chain bridge that was destroyed in World War II. When rebuilt after the war, a completely new modern suspension bridge design was chosen.

The sculpture of St. Gellért is located on the cliff of Gellért Hill facing the Danube. The sculpture commemorates St. Gellért, an important founder of Hungary. He came to Hungary in the 11th century to help King Stephen I promote Christianity and was ultimately martyred by being placed in a barrel and pushed into the Danube here by pagans. This sculpture not only honors the saint but also symbolizes Hungary's early conversion to Christianity.

Descending from Gellért Hill, we walked along Elizabeth Bridge towards Pest and saw the twin towers of the Inner City Parish Church in the distance.

The Sapientia Monastic Theological College is a theological college jointly established by the Benedictine Archabbey of Pannonhalma, the Province of St. John Capistrano of the Franciscan Order (renamed Province of the Virgin Mary of Hungary since 2006), and the Hungarian Province of the Piarist Order. It was legally established on January 1, 2000. (Green-domed building)

The Inner City Parish Church, a majestic church originally built in 1046, has a Gothic-Romanesque structure and a Baroque exterior.

The Klotild Palaces are two symmetrical buildings constructed between 1899 and 1902. Viewed from Kossuth Lajos Street, they form the iconic gateway to Elizabeth Bridge. The ornate facades and rich decorations of the two palaces reflect the Art Nouveau architectural style of the time. The central towers and domes of the buildings are particularly striking in the city panorama, serving as landmarks of Ferenciek Square. (Couldn't photograph the twin palaces.)

This beautiful building houses the Budapest Mystery Cinema.

At Ferenciek Square, this frame is used for spraying mist.

Ferenciek Square.

Budapest's trams are as long as two metro carriages.

The Slovak Evangelical Church was built in the 19th century and was a Slovak evangelical church at Rákóczi Street 57. The church is located in a courtyard; the front facade only has a gate, and the entrance requires passing through an apartment building.

The National Tobacco Shop (red building).

The Great Market Hall is a great place to experience local life. It is far more than just a market; it is an architectural gem with a hundred years of history and a window into the daily life and food culture of Hungarians. From the outside, it looks more like a grand train station than a market. Inside, the building features a tall steel frame and arched ceiling, with large glass windows on all sides and the roof, making the interior spacious and bright. The market was severely damaged during World War II and was reborn only after a major renovation in the 1990s.

First floor: a treasure trove of food and specialties; Second floor: handicrafts and food court; Basement: supermarket and stalls selling wine and practical items.

Exiting the Great Market Hall, we crossed Liberty Bridge to the Buda side of the Danube to see the night view.

Strolling along the Danube, we arrived at Elizabeth Bridge.

On the opposite bank, the Dormition Cathedral is a Russian Orthodox cathedral built between 1791 and 1800, part of the Danube World Heritage site. In the 18th century, many Greek merchants settled in Pest and built their own church.

A historic building now used commercially.

Part of the Buda Castle Garden, hosting concerts, exhibitions, and other events. Restaurants line the street.

The Buda Castle Garden Bazaar, a renovated 19th-century Neo-Renaissance building complex featuring exhibition halls, a theater, gardens, and restaurants.

Finally, we arrived at the Széchenyi Chain Bridge.

Sunset bathing the Parliament building.

St. Anne's Church under the night sky.

The golden Parliament building.

The Ferris wheel at Elizabeth Square.

Today we went to City Park, which is adjacent to the Museum of Ethnography and Heroes' Square, so they can be visited together.

The Hungarian Museum of Ethnography is one of the earliest specialized museums in Europe, founded in 1872. After 150 years of development, the museum opened its stunning new building in City Park in May 2022, open to the public. Through permanent and temporary exhibitions, the museum showcases cultures from five continents, highlighting Hungarian and global stories from new perspectives.

The building consists of two wings rising in opposite directions, symbolizing the harmonious coexistence of nature and the man-made world. 60% of the exhibition space is cleverly designed underground, providing an ideal protective environment for the exhibits. On top of the two wings, a park and roof garden covering a total area of 7,300 square meters were built, serving as both a meeting place and community space.

Street view from the highest point of the roof garden.

The centerpiece of Heroes' Square is the Millennium Monument, one of the city's landmarks. Construction began in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin. The main pillar bears statues of the seven Magyar tribal leaders who founded Hungary in the 9th century, led by Grand Prince Árpád. The flanking colonnades were added later and feature statues of other notable figures from Hungarian history. In 1929, a memorial to Hungarian heroes was added in front of the main pillar to commemorate Hungarians who died in World War I.

Around the square are two important buildings: the Museum of Fine Arts on the left and the Palace of Art on the right. The Serbian Embassy is also located here.

City Park is one of the first public parks in Europe, including the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, Vajdahunyad Castle, the Hungarian Agricultural Museum, Budapest Zoo, the House of Music Hungary, and more. It is a vast comprehensive paradise combining natural scenery, historical architecture, cultural venues, and leisure activities.

Vajdahunyad Castle is located on a small island in City Park, accessible only by four bridges. Vajdahunyad Castle (also often translated as Vajdahunyadvár) ingeniously blends several architectural styles, resembling an open-air chronicle of Hungarian architecture. Built in 1896 to celebrate the Hungarian Millennium, it incorporates elements from 21 famous buildings across Hungary, blending Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Romanesque, and other styles. The castle houses Europe's largest agricultural museum.

The lake in front of the castle is used for boating in summer and turns into an ice skating rink in winter.

Strolling in the shade or dining outdoors, enjoying a delicious lunch at one of the many restaurants – this is a great place for Hungarians to relax and have fun.

There are also many artisans in the park; this one is working with iron.

Making roses.

Over here are candies and snacks.

The small chapel of Vajdahunyad Castle is in 13th-century Romanesque style, primarily inspired by the Romanesque chapel of the Church of St. George and St. James at Ják.

These two performers were selling candy; their decorations were very appealing to children.

The Anonymous statue commemorates the chronicler of King Béla III of Hungary and Croatia in the 12th century, who wrote a chronicle called "Gesta Hungarorum" (Deeds of the Hungarians), one of the most important documents on early Hungarian history. Because he left no name, this statue is all the more symbolic – it represents all those anonymous scribes who recorded and passed down history for future generations.

The Hungarian Agricultural Museum. It is the only agricultural museum in the world located inside a castle. This stark contrast – the royal grandeur of the architecture combined with the rustic agricultural theme – makes it uniquely charming.

The tower of the Hungarian Agricultural Museum.

Side view of Vajdahunyad Castle.

The design of the House of Music Hungary is based on the innovative concept of Japanese architect Fujimoto Sou. Its modern futuristic style evokes nature and harmoniously blends with the environment of City Park. The huge glass curtain wall provides transparent views and a light, floating feel, while strengthening the connection with nature – the building almost merges with its surroundings. The extraordinary design of the floating roof depicts the flow of sound waves, symbolizing the invisible power of music. The main building was completed in late 2021 and officially opened to the public in early 2022.

The building features interesting interactive installations that have become excellent children's entertainment.

The concert hall was designed with careful consideration of acoustics, involving the renowned Nagata Acoustics company. The most striking feature inside is a ceiling inspired by the golden hall of the Liszt Academy of Music in Budapest, shaped like gilded leaves. It not only optimizes sound but also echoes the building's overall natural theme.

You can take the spiral staircase to the second floor for a visit.

The building houses a permanent exhibition on the history of Hungarian and European music, as well as areas for temporary exhibitions.

The second floor also has classrooms for music education, a library, and open studios.

The hemispherical "Acoustic Dome" in the basement offers an immersive 3D listening experience. It is equipped with over 31 speakers that create "holographic" sound walls from all directions, which is very impressive.

Leaving the House of Music, you can see the BalloonFly hot air balloon in the distance.

Walking a bit further, we arrived at the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. It is the largest comprehensive thermal bath in Europe; its magnificent Baroque building itself resembles a palace.

Vendors selling items in the park.

After exploring City Park, we took the M1 line to the famous New York Café.

The New York Café opened in 1894 on the ground floor of the New York Palace on Erzsébet körút in Budapest, and soon became the heart of the city's literary and artistic scene. Many famous figures left their mark here.

Stepping into the New York Café feels like entering the grand hall of a luxurious palace – no wonder it is called the "most beautiful café in the world." The gilded decorations, dazzling chandeliers, exquisite frescoes, and marble columns are breathtaking. (If you book a table, definitely choose the second floor; it's less crowded, quieter, and the atmosphere is even better.)

Looking down from the second floor.

The anteroom on the second floor is a good spot for photos.

From Keleti railway station, take the M2 line to Batthyány tér H, then transfer to the H5 suburban train (HEV), about 40 minutes.

The H5 suburban train (HEV) from Budapest is not included in the Budapest public transport day pass; you need to buy an additional ticket for the "H5 Békásmegyer - Szentendre" section at the station ticket machine or service center to avoid fines.

After getting off the train, walk along this path.

The Danube also flows through the town of Szentendre; the town center is right by the riverbank, with very pleasant scenery.

According to legend, a 17th-century census even recorded only one family living here. After the Ottomans were driven out of Hungary, people gradually began to move in. In the late 17th century wars, many Serbs immigrated here, and by the end of the 19th century Szentendre became a town. Today, Szentendre is a gathering place for artists, with many art galleries, museums, and numerous handicraft shops.

Wandering along the winding cobblestone streets of this town, you'll see 18th-century streetscapes full of ancient charm.

True to its reputation as an artist haven, even the alley decorations are special – this is Umbrella Street.

The streets are lined with various small shops, offering a glimpse into the culture, art, and daily life of Szentendre.

The town's residents enjoy a rich and colorful life; a triathlon was taking place here.

A beautiful town hall.

The houses built on the hill are arranged in a picturesque, unique manner.

Although the town is small, it has many churches. These Orthodox churches were built after the 17th century and are now major tourist attractions in Szentendre.

The narrow, winding streets and old, charming houses hide many small restaurants, art galleries, and handicraft exhibition halls, waiting to be discovered at your own pace.

Climbing the steps in the winding, narrow alleys, we searched for the beauty left behind in Szentendre.

We found a small hillside offering a panoramic view of the town. The houses of varying heights cluster around a Baroque steeple church, creating a simple and serene scene; every tile seems to tell a story of time long past.

The Parish Church of St. John the Baptist is a Baroque church originally built in the 13th century and rebuilt in Baroque style in the 18th century.

The Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of Belgrade, also known as the Dormition Cathedral, is one of the most important Serbian Orthodox churches in Szentendre. Built in the 18th century in Baroque-Rococo style, it is the religious and cultural center of the local Serbian community.

The Blagovestenska Serbian Orthodox Church is one of the most important religious and cultural monuments in Szentendre. This Baroque church was built in 1752 specifically for the Serbian Orthodox community, dedicated to the Annunciation.

The main square of Szentendre is the liveliest area in town. It is also the filming location for Jolin Tsai's MV "So Irresistible" (Bu Ke Si Yi); the opening scene of the MV is this square with a cross monument.

The Baroque cross monument standing in the center of the square was erected in 1763 to commemorate the town's lucky escape from the plague.

Each house and shop along the street has its own distinct color, creating the romantic and lively tone of Szentendre. This town is like a lighthearted sonata, playing its unique melody on the banks of the Danube.

The houses in Szentendre are colorful and varied in shape.

We entered a residential area; the houses here are simple, romantic, and cozy.

Is this in front of a house a decoration or an antique collection?

In this artistic alley, a couple sitting facing each other immersed the lane in a sweet atmosphere.

Every frozen moment is a romantic, peaceful picture, as infectious as the town's character.

Leaving the town, we took the H5 tram back to Batthyány Square. The Fashion Street is not far from here, so we could see more of Budapest's urban charm.

Passing Andrássy Avenue, we saw a striking historic building: the Anker Palace (or Anker House). It was completed in 1910 and originally housed the Hungarian headquarters of the Vienna Anker Life and Pension Insurance Company, hence its name.

Fashion Street is located in the center of Pest, connecting Deák Square (Deák tér) and Vörösmarty Square (Vörösmarty tér). It is about 150 meters long and surrounded by upscale boutiques.

The Kempinski Hotel.

The Bank of China also has a presence here.

C&A clothing store – two floors for women, one floor for men.

Coming out, we arrived again at Ferenciek Square.

A large supermarket next to the square.

An Asian food street: we had dinner here.

Six days in Budapest – an old dream of two cities on the Danube.

In Buda, climbing Castle Hill, with ancient cobblestones underfoot, the fairytale arcades of Fisherman's Bastion before you, and the colorful roof tiles of Matthias Church sparkling in the sun. Time seemed to stand still here. In Pest, the spires of Parliament pierce the sky, trams clang along Andrássy Avenue. Entering the New York Café, amidst the opulence, it felt like stepping back into the "Golden Age" a hundred years ago. And connecting it all is the quietly flowing Danube. When the lights of the Chain Bridge illuminate the night, the entire city becomes a flowing poem. I finally understood: by day, Budapest is majestic like an epic; by night, it is gentle like a love song.

Only upon leaving did I realize that Budapest's beauty lies not only in what the eyes can see but also in the lingering aftertaste that stays with you – making you forever homesick for the Danube.

Next: Three Months in Europe, Part 7: Budapest – Iron and Roses on the Danube

Table of Contents

1. Preface

2. Budapest

3. Buda Castle

4. Budapest History Museum

5. St. Stephen's Hall

6. Fisherman's Bastion

7. Holy Trinity Square and Matthias Church

8. Parliament Building

9. St. Stephen's Basilica

10. Andrássy Avenue