Finally Met You – Honeymoon Trip: Xi'an, Lijiang, Lugu Lake, Shangri-La, Chongqing, Chengdu

📍 Chengdu · 👁 7 reads · ❤️ 67 likes

I used to travel alone with a backpack and a DSLR, weaving through crowds.

I climbed the towering Mount Tai, wandered through the brightly lit Wuzhen, crossed the picturesque Huangshan, and strolled through the beautiful landscapes of Zhangjiajie. I also traversed the legendary Huashan's single path, explored the 3D city of Chongqing, visited the crowded Bund in Shanghai, and soaked in the history of Xi'an. I experienced Beijing's hustle, Chengdu's leisure, Harbin's cold, and Lijiang's charm. I hiked endless peaks in Lushan, admired the crystal-clear waters of Lugu Lake, encountered the cheeky monkeys at Mount Emei, and walked the endless paths of Fenghuang Ancient Town.

Traveling alone is free and unrestrained, but also lonely and silent.

Eventually, solo travel ended, and our honeymoon as a couple began.

I had visited most of these places before, so retracing the route helped avoid many unnecessary pitfalls. We planned the trip for mid-to-late October, avoiding the National Day peak season, which meant cheaper flights and accommodation. The itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Dalian – Xi'an (21:50 – 00:15), stayed at Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell Tower Luomashi) for Days 1-3.

Day 2: Xi'an sightseeing (Small Wild Goose Pagoda, Bell and Drum Towers, Muslim Quarter, Shaanxi History Museum, Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, Tang Paradise Night Market).

Day 3: Xi'an sightseeing (Shuyuan Men, Yongxing Fang, Xi'an City Wall).

Day 4: Xi'an – Lijiang (8:10 – 10:40), visited Dayan Old Town, stayed at Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn for Days 4-6.

Day 5: Lijiang – Dayan Old Town (Mu Family Mansion).

Day 6: Lijiang – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (booked a small group tour of 6 people via Ctrip).

Day 7: Lijiang – Lugu Lake (private car), visited Lige Peninsula, stayed at Lugu Lake Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Resort for Days 7-9.

Day 8: Lige Peninsula (cancelled due to illness; originally planned to climb Gemu Goddess Mountain).

Day 9: Lugu Lake loop tour (private car).

Day 10: Lugu Lake – Lijiang (shared car), stayed at Home Inn (Lijiang Ancient City Bus Station).

Day 11: Lijiang – Shangri-La (bus), Napa Hai Yila Grassland, Dukezong Old Town, stayed at Crystal Orange Hotel Shangri-La for Days 11-12.

Day 12: Shangri-La – Potatso National Park (full day).

Day 13: Shangri-La – Chengdu (Kuanzhai Alley), stayed at Mercure Hotel Chengdu Kuanzhai Alley for Days 13-14.

Day 14: Chengdu sightseeing (Wuhou Shrine, Jinli Ancient Street, Chunxi Road).

Day 15: Chengdu – Chongqing (high-speed train), Ciqikou Old Town, Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, Hongya Cave, stayed at Ji Hotel Chongqing Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street.

Day 16: Chongqing – Dalian (return home).

The main travel period lasted two weeks, which was a bit long; by the time we reached Chengdu and Chongqing, we were exhausted.

Main Expenses:

Flights: Dalian–Xi'an 395 RMB × 2

Xi'an–Lijiang 490 RMB × 2

Shangri-La–Chengdu 500 RMB × 2

Chongqing–Dalian 420 RMB × 2

Transfers: Private car to Xi'an airport: 111 RMB

Lijiang–Lugu Lake private car: 400 RMB (there are also buses for 80 RMB per person or shared cars for 100 RMB, but now it's strictly regulated; it's best to use official taxis or ride-hailing to avoid being stranded)

Lugu Lake loop private car: 400 RMB

Lugu Lake–Lijiang shared car: 100 RMB × 2

Lijiang–Shangri-La bus: 71 RMB × 2

Chengdu–Chongqing high-speed train: 146 RMB × 2 people

Accommodation:

Xi'an: Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell Tower Luomashi) 267 RMB × 3 nights

Lijiang: Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn 244 RMB × 3 nights

Lugu Lake: Lugu Lake Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Resort 1,271 RMB × 3 nights

Lijiang: Home Inn (Lijiang Ancient City Bus Station) 112 RMB × 1 night

Shangri-La: Crystal Orange Hotel Shangri-La 229 RMB × 2 nights

Chengdu: Mercure Hotel Chengdu Kuanzhai Alley 340 RMB × 2 nights

Chongqing: Ji Hotel Chongqing Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street 267 RMB × 1 night

Attractions: Xi'an Bell and Drum Towers combo ticket: 50 RMB × 2 people

Xi'an City Wall + bicycle rental: 100 RMB × 2 people

Lijiang Mu Family Mansion: 40 RMB × 2 people

Lijiang Jade Dragon Snow Mountain tour via Ctrip: 519 RMB × 2 people

Lugu Lake entrance: 70 RMB × 2

Napa Hai Grassland entrance: 30 RMB × 2 people

Potatso National Park entrance: 100 RMB × 2 people (I'm not sure about the exact price; paid in cash)

Chengdu Wuhou Shrine: 30 RMB × 2 people

Apart from meals and souvenirs, these were the main expenses.

Xi'an is one of the four great ancient capitals of China. This wasn't my first visit. My previous trip to Huashan was still vivid. Xi'an is a city where history and food come together. It's not far from Huashan, with direct high-speed trains. It's a good idea to visit Huashan while you have the courage, but this time we only visited Xi'an because my wife has a fear of heights, so Huashan was ruled out.

On the first day, we flew from Dalian to Xi'an at night (21:50–00:15). Night flights are affordable. The next morning we could start sightseeing. Xi'an Airport has airport buses to the city center that run until the last flight, so there's no worry about transportation. The airport is about an hour's drive from the city.

This was my third time in Xi'an. I recommend staying inside the city wall, near the Bell and Drum Towers or close to the wall. There are many hotels to choose from, convenient for getting around.

If visiting only Xi'an, three to four days is enough for most attractions. Day 1: attractions inside the city wall, including Bell and Drum Towers, Muslim Quarter, Xi'an City Wall, Shuyuan Men, Yongxing Fang. Day 2: Terracotta Warriors and Huaqing Pool (farther away), then come back for Giant Wild Goose Pagoda and Tang Paradise Night Market. Day 3: a full day for Huashan to experience the legendary sword fight.

We planned two full days in Xi'an. We arrived on the first evening and flew to Lijiang on the fourth morning. The two days were relaxed; we just wanted to stroll around the ancient city. We didn't go to Huashan or the Terracotta Warriors. Xi'an looks ancient by day, and the night lights enhance its Chinese flavor. We spent one night on the city wall and another at Tang Paradise Night Market.

A friend was coming to meet us in Xi'an and stay for two days. They were taking the airport bus to the Bell and Drum Towers around noon, so in the morning we visited the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.

That day's itinerary: morning at Small Wild Goose Pagoda, noon at Bell and Drum Towers and lunch in Muslim Quarter, afternoon at Shaanxi History Museum (reserve free tickets via WeChat; if you go directly, you can queue for free tickets depending on the crowd, so advance booking is advisable), evening at Giant Wild Goose Pagoda and Tang Paradise Night Market (which is near the pagoda square).

Small Wild Goose Pagoda is free; you need your ID to get a ticket. It's outside the city wall, so we took a bus or biked. Since Dalian has few cyclists, we chose to bike.

Although it was low season, it was Saturday, so there were many people. It took half an hour to exchange tickets and queue. There were also tour groups, including a foreign one. Late October in Xi'an is cool, but some foreigners wore shorts with down jackets – not the first time I've seen that combo.

Small Wild Goose Pagoda is inside Jianfu Temple, which is like a park and quite large. You can spend 1–2 hours there; there's also a museum. October and November, as well as March and April, have pleasant weather in Xi'an, not too hot, perfect for a visit.

The museum didn't have many exhibits, and we had plans for Shaanxi History Museum in the afternoon, so we just browsed briefly and headed back to meet friends at the Bell and Drum Towers.

The combo ticket for Bell and Drum Towers is 50 RMB each. Though there's not much to see inside, they are iconic landmarks in central Xi'an. We visited the Bell Tower first, then the Drum Tower, which is right above Muslim Quarter.

After that, it was paradise for food lovers. Muslim Quarter is Xi'an's most famous commercial street; there's no off-peak season – always crowded. They serve local specialties like cold noodles, Biangbiang noodles, roujiamo, and lamb paomo. Drink Bingfeng, a local soft drink.

We didn't try lamb paomo. I had it on my first visit and as a Northeasterner, I couldn't get used to it.

I'm not a serious foodie, so photos were taken from my wife's phone. The crowd in Muslim Quarter forced me to put my camera in my bag.

After eating, we biked to Shaanxi History Museum. It's a long ride, and as someone from Dalian (a city without bike lanes), biking on busy roads with motor vehicles was interesting.

Shaanxi History Museum is worth visiting. They say to understand a city, you must first visit its history museum. Xi'an has a long history, and the museum has rich exhibits. Make sure to enter from the south gate.

Since we couldn't go to the Mausoleum of Qin Shihuang, we saw terracotta warriors here. Without a guide, most people can't appreciate the historical value. It's advisable to hire a guide or eavesdrop on tour groups.

This is the legendary tiger tally used for mobilizing troops.

The upside-down teapot is a unique piece of ancient Chinese ceramics. Known as "Daoliu Hu," it defies traditional pouring methods by filling from the bottom and then turning it upright to pour. The museum has a video explaining its principle.

We were tired after the museum, especially from biking. Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is nearby, so we walked. The plaza's musical fountain is said to be the largest in China. I saw it once before; it's decent.

As night fell, the pagoda plaza reached its peak.

For dinner, we grabbed something at the food street in the north square. Xi'an is full of noodles.

Directly opposite the north square is Tang Paradise Night Market, which became popular online recently.

The statue of Xuanzang (Tang Sanzang, the prototype of Tripitaka in Journey to the West) stands in the north square.

Looking back from the night market, the pagoda is beautifully lit.

Tang Paradise Night Market is beautiful, very Chinese at night, crowded, and the street is long. It takes about an hour to walk through.

There was a performance that went viral online, but the "Unbreakable Lady" wasn't there this time.

After walking a distance, the pagoda looked farther away.

At the end of the night market, there's a small stage where a band was playing. We rested and listened to music.

We were exhausted by then; walking back was impossible. With the huge crowd, taking a taxi was hopeless. Getting back to the hotel became a problem. I suggest planning your return route in advance.

No taxis in sight; Didi had long queues. We checked Baidu Maps and decided to take a bus, but the bus stop was quite far, requiring more walking.

On the way to the bus stop, we passed the Xi'an Tang City Wall Ruins Park, which has a poetry recital hall (Yin Shi Tan). Its architecture seemed novel, and because no one was around, we sneaked in. It's a circular labyrinth-like building; when you speak inside, there's an echo, especially in the center. It turned out to be an interesting accidental discovery.

The walls of the hall are engraved with numerous poems. It's the exact center of the hall.

We managed to catch the last bus. That ended our first day. We stayed at Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell Tower Luomashi), a good location near the Bell Tower, just 2–3 minutes from the airport bus stop at Bell Tower Hotel. There's a snack street downstairs, lively but quiet after 11 pm. The hotel was newly opened, with modern facilities, a large TV, and smart toilet. Recommended.

Since we didn't plan to visit Huashan or the Terracotta Warriors, Day 2 was more relaxed. It drizzled in the morning, and Xi'an happened to be hosting a marathon, with many roads closed. So we just wandered.

In the morning we went to Shuyuan Men, at noon to Yongxing Fang for snacks, and in the afternoon to the Xi'an Incident Memorial Hall. Finally, we visited Xi'an City Wall.

Shuyuan Men is a street selling calligraphy supplies, full of culture. It was rainy and early, so it wasn't crowded. The Forest of Steles is inside. Without explanation, they're just stones.

After Muslim Quarter yesterday, today we went to Yongxing Fang. Muslim Quarter's snacks are unique because they have no pork. Yongxing Fang is more like a normal food street, though still with many Shaanxi specialties.

The bowl-smashing wine (Shuai Jiu) that went viral online was still popular.

Yongxing Fang is near the east gate of the city wall. At night, from the wall you can see the area's lights.

We wanted to stay on the city wall until evening. It was too early to go up, so we visited the Xi'an Incident Memorial Hall, which is not far from Yongxing Fang.

I've been to Xi'an three times, and each time I'm reluctant to leave the city wall. I love walking on it. We stayed from day to night.

The city wall is very long; walking takes half a day. Bicycles are available for rent (single or tandem). Even biking takes about an hour, and the stone-paved road is bumpy, making your butt sore. We rented bikes for one loop and then walked.

The city wall has four main gates: East (Changle), South (Yongning), West (Anding), and North (Anyuan). I like the south gate best; it's close to the Bell Tower and offers a view of it at night.

We rented two single bikes: one red, one white.

As night fell, the lights on the wall came on.

We passed by Xi'an Railway Station from the wall.

When we passed the east gate, we saw the lively area below, which we recognized as Yongxing Fang. It was bustling at night, so we decided to go down and visit again for dinner.

The buildings on the wall look great in photos at night.

Yongxing Fang at night was also noisy.

Our two days in Xi'an ended successfully. Qu Xiaopang (my wife) said she doesn't like Xi'an because she doesn't understand history.

Xi'an, as an ancient capital with Chinese characteristics, makes me linger. I've been three times. This time it was just a transit stop. Dalian has no direct flights to Lijiang, so connecting through Xi'an was affordable and allowed us two days of fun—a good choice.

Lijiang is a place close to the sky. Clouds seem to float overhead, within reach.

As a Northeasterner, Lijiang is quite far. This was my second visit. Even twice, I still miss this place, like Wuzhen which I've visited six times—a lingering feeling.

Most people fly directly to Kunming for Yunnan trips, as the provincial capital has more flights. Direct flights to Lijiang are fewer. Dalian has no direct flights to Lijiang either. Flying to Kunming and then to Lijiang feels too far, so we transferred in Xi'an. Normally, when flying to Kunming, you'd first go to Dali, but now Dali no longer has Erhai Lake. Without Erhai, Dali loses its soul. Overdevelopment caused severe pollution, leading to the closure of Erhai.

Lijiang's altitude is not high, but the temperature difference between day and night is large. At this time, people wear everything: down jackets, short sleeves, or down jackets with shorts (copying Europeans?).

Lijiang has many attractions, but my itinerary was relaxed. I didn't want to rush like a tour group. We flew from Xi'an to Lijiang in the morning. Since we booked the inn for three days, they offered airport pickup. Lijiang Airport is far from Dayan Old Town, so check if your hotel offers pickup. I booked Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn on Ctrip. Honestly, it was different from my expectations. I had stayed at a Lijiang inn before, and the comparison was stark. The previous inn left a great impression, so this one was disappointing. The main issue was that I booked a local tour to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain through the inn (intending to let them earn some commission), but they didn't secure the big cable car ticket to 4680m. Although I knew the ticket was tricky, I cancelled when they couldn't get it, but they charged a 20% cancellation fee—unacceptable. I lost confidence in their service. I cancelled and rebooked on Ctrip for the next day's tour that guaranteed the big cable car, with a Mercedes van, 5-6 people per group. That tour was satisfactory.

We arrived at Dayan Old Town around noon. We woke up early due to the early flight. After resting at the inn, we started exploring. Dayan Old Town is the largest ancient town I've ever visited. Even after two visits and three or four days of wandering, I still feel I haven't seen all of it.

The town centers around Sifang Street, with many alleys radiating outward. They say there are over 4,000 inns inside, plus shops and bars. It's huge. There are many types of inns; you'll find one you like, but those with decision fatigue might struggle. Even with 4,000 inns, peak season is still hard to book, and the streets are crowded. Better to visit in low season. Even now, there are still many people.

You'll see many people wearing shawls, sold everywhere. It seems an essential purchase in Lijiang. Almost every shop has a knitting machine, often with a girl working.

Dayan Old Town at night is beautiful, bustling with people. Shops dazzle. Although many items come from Yiwu, there are some local Lijiang specialties worth seeking.

In low season, Lijiang Ancient Town isn't too noisy. Turn a corner and you may find a path just for you. Wander aimlessly without maps—it's a joy.

Lijiang gets plenty of rain, so always carry an umbrella.

Yak and black goat ribs are local specialties. Near Tibetan areas, yak meat is abundant. It looked tempting. We thought it was 48 RMB per stick, but it was per jin (500g). My wife couldn't resist and bought a small box for over 100 RMB. Tasty but a bit tough.

The big waterwheel is a landmark. Near it is a square with crowds, and locals dancing.

Sifang Street is the center, a square from which paths lead in all directions.

From Sifang Street, you're close to the bar street.

The bar street is lively with various styles: cheerful, passionate, or mellow music mixed together. A good place to drink and be merry, but beware of bar touts.

The old town is huge. Even I, with a good sense of direction, sometimes get lost. Baidu Maps is helpful. For those with poor direction, finding the inn can be a challenge.

This is the courtyard of the inn. Every inn has a tea table.

When you stay at a Lijiang inn, sit down for tea with the staff, listen to their stories. Sometimes you meet other travelers and share experiences over tea—it's wonderful.

Most inns are wooden structures, looking quaint under night lights, but soundproofing is poor.

On the second day in Lijiang, we were supposed to go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but the big cable car wasn't available, so we postponed to the next day.

Lijiang has many places to visit, but we decided to do nothing and just stroll leisurely in the old town.

Dayan Old Town is the largest. Nearby is Shuhe Ancient Town, smaller and less crowded, more laid-back.

You can also watch the Lijiang Eternal Love show. I wanted to see it; I've seen similar shows in Hangzhou Songcheng—highly recommended.

Lijiang's main ethnic group is the Naxi. Naxi women work; they value plumpness, calling beautiful capable women "Pangjinmei." The driver on the way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain said Naxi men are lazy; he himself is exceptionally hardworking.

Mu Family Mansion was the residence of the local chieftain, like a local emperor. It thrived through dynasties, enjoying the saying "the sky is high and the emperor is far away."

The architecture is palatial. Ticket is 30 RMB, includes a guided tour. You wait for a group of about 10 people, then a guide leads you. The guide helps you understand the mansion's former glory. After the tour, you're free to explore. Without the guide, it's hard to appreciate.

Behind the mansion is Lion Hill, the highest point in the old town, offering panoramic views. The mansion itself also offers a view, and since the climb triggered my wife's fear of altitude sickness, we skipped Lion Hill.

Lion Hill is closed at night, so don't plan to shoot night views there.

For lunch, we ate at a restaurant whose name I forgot, near Mu Mansion at the end of Zhongyi Lane. It was a music restaurant with good food and reasonable prices; we ate there twice. There are online meal deals with generous portions; the yak hotpot set was good.

During the meal, an elderly Naxi woman came selling pomegranates from a bamboo basket. She was old and carrying heavy pomegranates. We bought two for about 13 RMB. Communication was difficult; a waitress helped translate. Lijiang has cheap fruits, especially pomegranates.

In Lijiang, the key is to enjoy the leisurely life. Don't rush through scenic spots. Spend a whole day strolling slowly—it's a treat.

The old town is large; you can wander different streets, pop into shops you like. Despite commercialization, it's relaxing. There will always be something that catches your eye.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is Lijiang's moneymaker. Many tourists come for it. In fact, there are many snow mountains in Tibetan areas, but Jade Dragon is more famous. The scenic area is huge. It's better to join a local tour. The key is whether you can get the big cable car ticket to 4680m. Booking by yourself is difficult; most tickets are reserved by tour groups. I booked a 5-6 person group on Ctrip for about 500 RMB each. It included Mercedes van pickup, lunch (small hotpot), entrance fee, cable car ticket, and gear (down jacket, oxygen tank). The guarantee was that if booked, you'd get the cable car ticket unless weather closed it.

Weather is crucial for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Snow should be fresh; the summit looks best a few days after snowfall. Clear weather is great. We went just after a snowfall, but the snow hadn't been cleared from the boardwalk, so we took the cable car to 4506m. From there, we could climb to 4680m. The base of the cable car is around 3700m, then up to 4506m, then climb to 4680m.

At 4506m, people with severe altitude sickness start feeling it. Oxygen is important. Use it early, before symptoms appear.

There was no fog initially, but a wind brought mist up from the mountain waist. Though temperatures are low at 4500m, strong sunlight made it feel warm; we took off our down jackets.

After getting off the cable car, we walked along the wooden boardwalk towards 4680m, but due to uncleared snow, the path was blocked halfway. It was disappointing not to reach the top. The snow was thick from yesterday's snowfall, with some mist. Last time I made it to 4680m but saw nothing due to clouds.

Unable to go higher, we stayed a while and took the cable car down. Then we visited Blue Moon Valley, which my wife loved.

The water in Blue Moon Valley changes from green to blue, like a watercolor painting.

We walked along the water from upstream down. It takes about an hour. There are electric carts at several stops, but I recommend walking to fully enjoy the scenery. The total distance isn't far.

The upstream of Blue Moon Valley is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, a beautiful view.

The upstream water is shallow and green; downstream deeper water turns turquoise.

Blue Moon Valley is stunning; any photo could be a screensaver.

It's a popular spot for wedding photos, like the seaside in Dalian or West Lake in Hangzhou.

The scenery is perfect for photography. We saw at least ten couples taking wedding photos.

The sky seemed close; clouds floated overhead, within reach.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is worth visiting. The main thing to consider is weather; bad weather closes the big cable car.

There is an outdoor performance called Impression Lijiang, but I've missed it both times; it requires time, and tours including it are rare.

Climbing to 4680m and visiting Blue Moon Valley was great. Perfect timing: we left the old town around 8am and returned around 4-5pm.

In the evening, we went back to the music restaurant we visited at noon the previous day. We liked it so much we went again. We ordered a four-person set, surprising the staff. Maybe we thought we were still hungry from the snow mountain trip. My wife thought we could eat it all.

We sat on the second floor, empty due to low season. We had the whole floor to ourselves, a great spot.

The four-person set came with a huge bowl of rice—unforgettable. We stared at each other and asked the server to replace it with a smaller one to avoid waste. Even four people couldn't finish that.

We also ordered a small bottle of fruit wine, which was good despite our low tolerance.

Drinking a little wine, very pleasant.

Our three days in Lijiang ended. Lijiang is a memorable place; my wife said she wants to come again.

I had visited Lugu Lake before, but it was rushed, so it stayed in my thoughts.

Lugu Lake is not far from Lijiang in distance, but the road is winding mountain roads, taking about 4 hours. The scenery along the way is beautiful. You can take a bus or hire a private car. The bus goes to Daluoshui Village; if staying at Lige Peninsula, you need another taxi.

Both times I've stayed at Lige Peninsula, Lugu Lake's iconic area with beautiful scenery. I recommend staying there. There are dozens of inns around Lige Peninsula, with 5-6 on the peninsula itself. They are hard to book, especially in peak season. Previously I stayed at Peninsula Sunshine on the peninsula, which is the best in terms of facilities, location, and service. Every room has a balcony with lake view. It's pricey.

This time I chose a newly opened hotel, Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Resort, mainly because of its 270-degree view room. I splurged for three nights.

Finally, I arrived at my longed-for Lugu Lake.

I hired a private car (ride-hailing) for 400 RMB. Shared car is 100 RMB per person. After hesitation, I chose private for the flexibility to stop and take photos. But the winding roads made my wife carsick. If you get carsick, it's better to take a bus, as it's more stable.

We stopped a few times along the way. This is the Jinsha River.

There are many rest stops and viewpoints. My wife bought motion sickness patches at a rest stop.

The entrance fee for Lugu Lake was changed to 70 RMB, as the star rating dropped to 4A.

Lugu Lake scenic area is huge. Many local residents live inside, with many villages, though mostly commercialized.

The indigenous people are the Mosuo, not a separate ethnic group but a branch of the Naxi, so they are called Mosuo people.

Mosuo are known as the "walking marriage" tribe. Most no longer practice it. The custom: a man meets a woman he likes at the walking marriage bridge, and if she agrees, he can visit her room at night after her family sleeps. There is no marriage; children are raised by the woman and her brothers, not the father. The father raises his nieces and nephews.

Lugu Lake lies on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. Two-thirds belongs to Sichuan. There are two ticket gates. We entered from the Yunnan side. The entrance viewpoint overlooks the entire lake. Due to weather (cloudy), there were no blue skies mirrored in the lake; the thick clouds made the water look gloomy.

View from the viewpoint: Daluoshui Village.

The path from Lige Village to Lige Peninsula.

Lugu Lake's pig trough boats look shabby but are photogenic. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't great for photos.

These boats are rowed manually, slow and leisurely. But don't stay too long on the water; you'll get tired. Pig trough boats are available at many spots. If you've watched "Dear Inn," you can take one to visit the actual inn; no need for others.

We checked into Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Resort. Good location, large floor-to-ceiling windows with a view. New hotel with modern amenities: smart toilet, electric curtains, projector. A simple but modern inn.

This is a staged photo.

Behind Lige Peninsula is a viewpoint where the classic photo of Lige Peninsula is taken. I have one from my previous visit in good weather.

After sitting in the car for 4 hours, we rested at the inn and went out for a walk in the evening. There is a small path below the viewpoint, not easy to find, leading to Lige Peninsula. Lugu Lake is large and not brightly lit at night, unlike Wuzhen or Fenghuang.

We returned to the inn, which had a small electric scooter for taking guests nearby.

A tiring day; I took a bath.

Due to my wife's illness, we cancelled Day 8's activities and rested all day. We originally planned to visit Gemu Goddess Mountain. But the area around Lige Peninsula is remote; the pharmacy was closed all day, and we couldn't buy stomach medicine. The inn's service needs improvement; they should keep some common medicines.

After a day of rest, my wife felt better. Finally, we could go out.

We planned to do the full loop of Lugu Lake. I wanted to bike, but after considering time, distance, and stamina, it was too ambitious. Also, bike rentals are limited now due to safety concerns (narrow roads, many cars). Electric bikes are banned. So we hired a private car.

Private car for the loop: 400 RMB per day; shared car: about 100 RMB per person.

The loop around Lugu Lake is about 70 km, so biking requires stamina.

The weather during our three days was not great, mostly cloudy with little sun. The lake looked dull.

We started from Lige Peninsula, going counterclockwise.

Lugu Lake has two Lover's Beaches: one in Yunnan, one in Sichuan. We reached the Yunnan one first. I think the Yunnan one is better, with a larger beach for closer contact with the clear water.

Soon we arrived at Daluoshui Village. Lige Peninsula is not far. I once walked from Lige to Daluoshui and took a bus back to Lijiang—half a day for ~10 km. Daluoshui has many inns along the lake, but the scenery is less impressive than Lige Peninsula.

We encountered a group of small black ducks; unknown species.

Around noon, we arrived at the place where you can take a boat to the "Dear Inn" (the show's inn). The boat fee was 180 RMB per person, I think.

The boat ride was long, rowed manually, slow. In the middle of the lake, you can taste the water; it's drinkable. I tried a bit; it tasted slightly sweet.

The boatman, a handsome local middle-aged man, spoke with a strong accent. The trip took over an hour, seemed tiring, but the boatmen looked fine.

In the middle of the lake, the water was deep but clear, though you couldn't see the bottom. Water plants drifted faintly.

High mountains and flowing water, blue sky and white clouds—a picturesque landscape.

Because of inconvenient transportation, Lugu Lake still retains natural beauty, like a paradise. However, with the construction of an airport and roads, more people are coming. It may eventually suffer the same fate as Erhai. So visit while the water is still clear.

As we approached the Dear Inn, I recalled scenes from the variety show "Dear Inn": the boss Wang Ke, host Liu Tao, the quarreling couple Kan Qingzi and Ji Lingchen (now broken up), and Chen Xiang who only knew how to make pancake rolls. Season 1 was nostalgic. During my first visit, the show was airing; I hadn't seen it then. After watching it later, I wanted to return.

I love the clear water of Lugu Lake.

The Dear Inn has now become a tourist attraction; it's difficult to book.

I remember Yi Yangqianxi silently painting there.

This is the boundary between Yunnan and Sichuan. Beyond this line is the Sichuan side of Lugu Lake. The architecture changes subtly.

Grass Sea (Caohai): This is why Lugu Lake's water is clear. The grass purifies the water.

The famous Walking Marriage Bridge (Zouhun Qiao). It's said you shouldn't turn back on the bridge, so the driver drove around to pick us up at the other end.

Paid bronze statues on the bridge for photos.

The sky was overcast, making the lake water look murky.

Goddess Bay is said to be the most beautiful spot, a must-visit. However, the road up was partially collapsed, so few cars could go down, and there weren't many visitors.

The sky was too overcast to enjoy its beauty.

The "Good Person" restaurant (Hao Ren Xiao Chi) was mentioned in the show where Wang Ke and Chen Xiang ate. It used to be 30 RMB for all-you-can-eat. Now prices have risen. We gave it a try.

Chicken stew with matsutake mushrooms (but matsutake is expensive; was it real?). It was filling.

The taste was okay. Maybe we were hungry. Even the tomato with sugar tasted good.

Seeing Lige Peninsula again meant the loop was almost over.

We started at 8:30 am and returned around 3 pm. The loop took about 6-7 hours. Despite the weather reducing the lake's beauty, it was still good.

A small boat on Lugu Lake.

This is a photo from my previous visit when the weather was sunny, with blue sky and white clouds reflected on the water, making one feel relaxed.

Our three-day trip to Lugu Lake ended. Many people haven't heard of Lugu Lake. The show "Dear Inn" increased its popularity. However, as visitors increase, the natural beauty may be gradually eroded, and commercialization will worsen. So it's a good idea to visit while it still has some natural charm. Unfortunately, my wife didn't have a good impression due to various reasons.

Shangri-La (Xianggelila) means "sun and moon in heart" in Tibetan. It's a longed-for paradise, said to be closest to heaven.

The name was officially changed in late 2001; previously it was called Zhongdian County.

Although Lugu Lake and Shangri-La are not far apart, there is no direct road; you have to return to Lijiang and then go to Shangri-La. They form a triangle. Both places have airports; a direct flight would be convenient.

There are many buses from Lijiang to Shangri-La, some direct, some stopping at Tiger Leaping Gorge. Tiger Leaping Gorge is between Lijiang and Shangri-La, closer to Lijiang. If time allows, it's worth a visit. We were a bit tired and decided to go straight to Shangri-La.

On Day 10, we rested in Lugu Lake until noon, then took a shared car back to Lijiang. We booked a hotel near Lijiang Bus Station for convenience. We went to the old town again that evening. The next morning, we took a bus to Shangri-La. Two days were mostly spent on buses.

The bus from Lijiang to Shangri-La took about 4 hours. We arrived around noon and checked into Orange Hotel, not far from the old town. Location was good. The old town in Shangri-La is small, so staying inside isn't necessary; it's very different from Lijiang.

Upon arriving in Shangri-La, you immediately feel you're in a Tibetan area. The architectural style is distinctly bold.

This was my first time in Shangri-La, also my first close encounter with Tibetan areas. It was spiritually cleansing.

Originally we planned to visit Songzanlin Monastery. A ride-hailing driver recommended otherwise, so we changed our first stop to Napa Hai Yila Grassland. My wife also didn't like temples.

At Yila Grassland, we paid 30 RMB each for entrance, and they offered horse riding. We felt a bit cheated but didn't ride, just walked inside. I think Napa Hai is large, surely not all areas are fenced for fees.

But when we walked in, the beautiful scenery made it worthwhile.

Due to the season, it wasn't warm, the grass wasn't very green, and a few cattle and horses wandered, adding some fertilizer. Still, it was picturesque.

In the distance, through the grassland, I think that's Shika Snow Mountain, another climbable peak near Shangri-La.

Sky, snow mountain, sea, grassland—a view impossible in cities. Standing quietly on the grassland, looking into the distance, was refreshing.

My wife's hair braids were done the night before in Lijiang; she insisted on getting them for Shangri-La.

"Let us be companions in this mortal world, live freely and carefreely. Gallop on horses, share the prosperity of life. Sing with wine, express inner joy. Live youth with passion." This photo reminded me of that song. I imagined the scene... Ziwei! Ziwei! A pair of big nostrils...

Though we didn't ride, many others wanted to experience galloping.

When researching Shangri-La, I hadn't considered Yila Grassland as a main attraction; I thought it was just a plain. I hadn't figured out the route either. So it was an accidental discovery. With clear weather, it was truly worth the visit.

We spent about 1-2 hours there. The driver waited at the entrance and took us back to the hotel. She also recommended a visit to a Tibetan family, which I had considered. We had booked it but later cancelled due to various reasons. Usually, tour groups include such visits. Maybe next time.

After a short rest, we walked to Dukezong Old Town. Its architecture was grand and roads wide, giving a "nouveau riche" feel, very different from Lijiang's Dayan Old Town.

The old town is small. Due to low season, there were few tourists. Like Lugu Lake, it's remote, so most visitors come on tours. It's also high altitude, uncomfortable for those with altitude sickness.

Speaking of altitude sickness, our hotel room was on the 6th floor, and the elevator was under repair. We climbed up, and my wife immediately used the leftover oxygen tank from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, lying in bed to inhale... a funny sight.

The facades of buildings in Dukezong Old Town felt heavy and luxurious.

A Tibetan mastiff lazily basked in the sun in the square, looking docile but no one dared to tease it.

It was a paid photo prop.

In high-altitude Shangri-La, you should reduce physical activity. Even a small slope may cause breathlessness.

The world's largest prayer wheel in Dukezong requires at least 10 people to turn. When we went, a tour group was there, otherwise it would be hard to spin in off-season.

My wife had been longing for Potatso National Park, where Xie Na and Zhang Jie held their wedding. Maybe she likes Zhang Jie's songs. Potatso is vast; you need shuttle buses to go to various spots, similar to Zhangjiajie.

Due to heavy tourism, the park has suffered damage. Some spots are now closed; only Shudu Lake is open.

Potatso is a distance from the city. There are minibuses from the city bus station, likely privately operated. The driver was a local Tibetan. He shared insights about Shangri-La and Potatso, deepening our understanding. He often said "Tashi Delek."

The altitude in the park is higher than the city, averaging over 3,000m, near 4,000m in some areas. You need to walk a lot. My wife, feeling anxious, bought two oxygen tanks. It was cold, so we rented two thick coats.

The weather was overcast, not as good as yesterday. On a sunny summer day, it would be wonderful.

This is why low season exists: vegetation is not lush. In summer with clear weather, it's a great place.

We wore rented down jackets, warm enough. They weren't as ugly as expected, though the women's red ones were a bit much.

A yak watched her jump. She jumps everywhere as a ritual. It's not that high; she just lifts her calves. I captured it well.

We walked along the lake for a long time, about 2-3 hours. Luckily, there were few people; otherwise, the path would be crowded.

Cows and sheep everywhere.

We walked through an original forest with free-range cattle.

In the distance, there were cattle and sheep on the grassland, too far too distinguish. I thought we could walk there along the lake, but the path ended before reaching it. Likely many spots were closed.

After a long walk, a shuttle bus brought us back to the entrance. If other spots were open, they'd have connections.

Because most spots were closed, half a day was enough. We returned to the city around 2-3 pm.

What I remember most from Shangri-La was having a spicy hotpot (Malatang) at Yang Guofu Malatang, the most expensive I've ever had. It was near the hotel; we spent over 70 RMB for not much. In Dalian, we'd spend 30-40. Vegetables and fruits are expensive in Shangri-La since they're transported in.

The temperature difference between day and night is huge. It was very cold at night, but we still wanted to see the old town's night views.

Every place has enthusiastic square dancers. In Dukezong's square, there was a group dance, very lively and with Tibetan characteristics.

Many people want a Tibetan knife. The old town sells them at high prices. Outside the old town, it's hard to find. Better to buy from the factory. But taking a knife away is difficult; you can't carry it on a plane, and express delivery requires local ID. Regulations are strict, so I gave up.

We stayed in Shangri-La for two days. The next afternoon we flew to Chengdu. Initially, we hadn't planned Chengdu and Chongqing, but we found flights from Shangri-La to Chengdu, so we thought it would be nice to spend a couple of days there and fly home from Chongqing, since there are no direct flights from Lijiang to Dalian.

My wife enjoyed Shangri-La and wanted to come again. Next time, we could visit nearby snow mountains or go deeper into Tibetan areas. Places like Yubeng Village, a true paradise unreachable by car, only on foot. But it requires good fitness.

Chengdu is a city you never want to leave. I wrote a travelogue last time when I came alone.

Chengdu is just a city, but it has a unique charm that makes you linger.

We flew from Shangri-La to Chengdu in about an hour, arrived in the evening. The most striking feeling was no longer being short of breath; maybe even a bit dizzy from the oxygen.

We stayed at Mercure Hotel Kuanzhai Alley, just a 5-minute walk from Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is near a metro station, convenient. We took the metro from the airport.

Last time I visited Kuanzhai Alley during the day; this time we experienced it at night.

Chengdu's symbol: pandas.

Panda dolls and paintings everywhere. Chengdu is a panda city, home to the world's largest panda breeding base.

Kuanzhai Alley is similar to many commercial snack streets in other cities.

Although called Kuanzhai Alley (Wide and Narrow Alley), there are actually three: Wide alley, Narrow alley, and well alley (Jing Xiangzi).

This wood is called golden nanmu; a set of golden nanmu furniture can cost tens of thousands.

Sichuan has many unique features, like face-changing in Sichuan opera.

In Chengdu, you must try Chuan Chuan Xiang (skewers). Last time alone, I didn't go. The skewer restaurant "Chuan Tian Xia" was right below our hotel. We ate there before visiting Kuanzhai Alley.

We searched for good food nearby on the metro and found this one.

In Sichuan, oil dip is essential for hotpot or skewers. Outsiders use it to reduce spiciness. The oil dip was placed on the table and charged at 5 RMB per bottle.

Since my wife can't handle too much spice, we ordered a yuan yang (half-spicy, half-mild) pot. I wanted to taste Sichuan's spiciness. Skewers are self-serve. There was a promotion, so we got 50 RMB off. Reasonable price, good taste.

We planned to visit Wuhou Shrine and Jinli snack street, but it rained heavily, so we had to cut short and return to the hotel. Our day was ruined by rain.

Wuhou Shrine is next to Jinli. I came during Chinese New Year last time and saw the lantern show.

Before Chongqing, we had hotpot in Chengdu.

After much online research, we chose Ba Shu Da Jiang on Chunxi Road. Again a yuan yang pot; only the small center was non-spicy. Looking at all the chilies was intimidating.

My wife said Sichuan hotpot has no soul because there's no sesame sauce, only oil dip.

When the red oil melted and boiled, it looked appetizing.

Duck blood: very red.

The restaurant was supposed to be popular, but it was empty when we went. However, the rows of stools for waiting suggested it's crowded during peak hours. We went at 2-3 pm.

We stayed two nights in Chengdu, but by then we were already tired from the long trip. Plus the weather wasn't good, so we didn't do much sightseeing. After eating, we strolled aimlessly until Tianfu Square when the rain stopped.

Chengdu to Chongqing is very close, like Beijing to Tianjin. Many high-speed trains.

Chongqing: a 5D fantasy city.

Chongqing is a magical city with distinct characteristics. Even just wandering around feels incredible.

Chongqing has become a trending city, with many people coming to check in. It's similar to Dalian in that there are almost no non-motor vehicle lanes. As a mountain city, biking is tough.

We took an early high-speed train from Chengdu to Chongqing. Then we took the famous monorail, which goes through mountains and buildings with 90-degree turns, like a roller coaster.

We stayed at Ji Hotel Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, the worst Ji Hotel I've ever stayed in due to outdated facilities. The location was excellent, right on Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, two minutes from the monument.

We got off the monorail at the same shopping mall as last time, and once again couldn't find the exit. In other cities, metro exit maps are flat; in Chongqing, they're 3D. It's a city where even Baidu Maps is hard to use.

After settling in, our first stop was Ciqikou Old Town.

Another characteristic Chongqing old town, built on a mountain, with many stairs.

In Chongqing, the most common things are hotpot and noodles; in the old town, the most common is pots of hotpot base. The aroma is amazing.

My first visit to Ciqikou was during Spring Festival; it was overwhelmingly crowded. Even now in low season, it's still busy. Tourists must come here.

Shops sell chili sauce, and there are free samples. Be careful if you can't handle spice. My wife learned the hard way.

The old town requires climbing steps.

Without stamina, it's hard to survive in Chongqing.

Ciqikou has many noodle shops and hotpot. We had a bowl of Chongqing noodles (xiaomian), ordering a non-spicy one, but it was still very spicy.

By the time we returned to the pedestrian street, it was dark. After a quick rest, we went to Hongya Cave, the most iconic Chongqing attraction.

Hongya Cave has 11 floors. It's said that if you take the elevator from the 1st floor to the 11th, you end up on the 1st floor again.

Hongya Cave's night view is top-notch. One side is the brilliant lights of the cave, the other is the Qiansimen Bridge over the Jialing River.

Hongya Cave is literally a cave. Looking out from inside, it's like Water Curtain Cave. At that time, the bridge lights weren't on yet.

After some time, the bridge lights came on. Last time I thought the river below was the Yangtze, but it's the Jialing, which joins the Yangtze further ahead.

This is the best photo spot for Hongya Cave. All promotional photos include this angle. There were many people. Previously, you could cross the road directly, but now it's blocked due to crowds. To get to the other side, you have to go under the bridge through the lower level of Hongya Cave. It's hard to find.

Hongya Cave is always busy, especially at night.

A girl was going all out to take a photo of her boyfriend.

Chongqing has a vibrant nightlife. We returned to Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street around 8-9 pm; it was still crowded with tourists.

It was our last day. We had an evening flight from Chongqing to Dalian. We slept in, then strolled around the dreamy city. Sometimes wandering aimlessly reveals unique cityscapes.

Kaixuan Road Elevator: we happened upon it. Baidu Maps directed us to take it down. It's an outdoor elevator, uncommon in other cities. It costs 1 or 2 RMB per person. There's also a staircase. We rode down and later walked up, seeing local people playing mahjong on the stairs—a classic Chongqing scene.

While wandering, we saw Baixiang Street. A couple seemed to be on a wedding trip, wearing a wedding dress with backpacks, taking photos everywhere. Though it looks tiring, traveling for a wedding seems romantic.

Our two-week honeymoon trip ended at Chongqing Airport. With a thick stack of double tickets and receipts, we felt a strong sense of happiness.

Two backpacks, one DSLR, a journey for two.

Travelogue Table of Contents:

1. Xi'an

2. Day 1

3. Day 2

4. Day 3

5. Lijiang

6. Day 4

7. Day 5

8. Day 6

9. Lugu Lake