Travelogue of Six Cities in Sichuan, Chongqing, and Shaanxi

This year's vacation trip was originally planned for Wenzhou and Xiamen, but by July, typhoons ravaged the eastern coast. Although southern Zhejiang and eastern Fujian were not severely affected, the weather forecast showed continuous rain, so for safety, we had to give up. Zeze kept clamoring to go to Yunnan, so we shifted our focus from the southeastern coast to the southwestern inland. Since the vacation time was limited, going to Kunming would require flying, which was very expensive. Travel agencies offered 6- or 8-day round-trip flights to Yunnan ranging from 2500 to 4000 yuan, but group tours have many restrictions and shopping hassles, which were not our desire. Upon closer questioning, we found out that Zeze insisted on Yunnan because her grandmother and aunts had flown there last year and described a wonderful scene afterward. Zeze didn't really understand what Yunnan was like, but she knew it was far away and required a plane ride. Right now, the only modes of transportation she hadn't tried were airplanes and spaceships. Since no one around had ridden a spaceship, that could be set aside for now, but many family members had flown and would occasionally show off, which was annoying. So this time, she had to go to Yunnan, mainly to fly! After learning this reason, we adjusted our itinerary and set our sights on Jiuzhaigou. Of course, the flight had to be arranged. I jumped between various discount airline websites, compared prices, considered travel factors, and finally settled on a general itinerary: train to Chengdu, bus to Jiuzhaigou, bullet train to Chongqing, train to Xi'an, flight to Jinan, and finally bus home. To maximize the use of the flight, we didn't choose the cheaper red-eye flight but settled on a 7:30-8:55 AM flight, with a 46% discount for adults. The three of us totaled 1670 yuan, plus the long-distance bus from Jinan home, which meant the flight alone cost over 1400 yuan more than the train.

Five days before departure, we got the hard sleeper tickets from Yanzhou to Chengdu. I also registered as a 12306 user, and buying tickets online felt really great—just a click of the mouse, and I easily bought two hard sleeper tickets for L218 from Chongqing to Xi'an. This train departs in the evening and arrives in the morning, saving accommodation costs and gaining sightseeing time. At the same time, I bought the flight ticket from Xi'an to Jinan on the Sichuan Airlines website. We hadn't even left yet, but money started flowing out. However, once these tickets were in hand, the overall plan for the trip was set, and I felt at ease.

**Leshan Giant Buddha

On Friday night at 11:30, we boarded the train. I climbed to the upper berth and lay down, while Zeze and her mother slept on the lower berth. Zeze, at five and a half, was slightly over the free height limit of 1.2 meters, enjoying the last height advantage for travel. But this made it hard for her mother, as the narrow hard sleeper bed was almost entirely taken up by Zeze, who kept stretching her arms and legs, and her mother had to squeeze on the edge to prevent her from rolling off.

To pass the entire Saturday on the train, we brought a lot of snacks. Zeze even carried her small backpack, stuffed with her favorite treats. We also brought three Berenstain Bears picture books, a stack of drawing paper, some watercolor pens, a set of cardboard assembly toys, and a new small portable speaker, which we loaded with audio children's stories before leaving. As it turned out, these items were very useful, especially the small speaker. Zeze listened intently to the stories and played "Cinderella" N times, to the point where she could tell it herself.

When the train entered Hubei province, it was already an hour late, but it made up time on the latter part of the journey, arriving in Chengdu at 8:40—five minutes early. The land of abundance in Sichuan! It seemed the train also felt my urgency to reach you!

Since it was still early and the weather was overcast and cool, we adjusted our plan for the day from a leisurely day in Chengdu to a trip to Leshan. So we split into two groups: one went to the accommodation to drop off luggage, and the other went to the Xinnanmen Bus Station to buy tickets to Leshan and tickets for the next day to Jiuzhaigou. Buses from Chengdu to Leshan run continuously, departing when full before 4 PM. Around 12:30, we arrived at Xiaoba Bus Station in Leshan City. From there, we could take Bus 13 directly to the Leshan Giant Buddha scenic area, but we were very hungry, so we took Bus 1 to the city center for lunch.

Near the stop, at an intersection, there was a memorial group sculpture. On closer inspection, it was the Memorial for the Victims of the August 19 Air Raid. Leshan is close to Chongqing, the wartime provisional capital, and although it is in the southwestern interior, it did not escape Japanese invasion. On August 19, 1939, Japanese aggressors dispatched 36 bombers to launch a brutal bombing on Leshan city, completely destroying one-third of the city, killing over 4000 people, and leaving tens of thousands homeless. After 63 long years, Leshan held a grand gathering to build a monument in their memory.

The streets of Leshan city are not very wide, but there was no sense of congestion or stuffiness; rather, it felt humid but not dry, cool and pleasant. Leshan is famous worldwide for the riverside giant Buddha, and it has been known since ancient times as "the finest scenery under heaven is in Shu, and the best of Shu is Jiazhou." It is a national historical and cultural city and one of the most culturally developed areas in Sichuan, considered an important sample of Bashu culture.

After a simple lunch, we took Bus 13 to the Leshan Giant Buddha scenic area. As soon as we entered the gate and climbed the steps, we were immersed in a lush, shady atmosphere. Dense trees enveloped the entire mountain and the people inside. Only by looking out through gaps in the trees could we see the wide river flowing vigorously. The ochre-colored cliff carvings were half-hidden by clusters of green grass, requiring careful identification to discern the words. And those words perfectly interpreted the visitors' immediate sensations; understanding each one brought a sudden realization and inner peace.

The mountain was not high, and we soon reached the flat top. There was a Lingyun Temple with prosperous incense. At the edge of the square in front of the temple, we suddenly came face to face with the huge Buddha head. The Buddha's eyelids were lowered, with a kind face and dignified appearance, serene and majestic. The giant Buddha indeed had to be "viewed from the head." To see the full figure, we queued for over an hour before descending the Nine-Bend Plank Path. This plank path was carved along the mountain at the same time as the Buddha, with the narrowest part only 0.6 meters wide, totaling 217 stone steps, winding down the cliff to the Buddha's feet at the riverside. Since it only allowed single-file passage, although queuing above was slow, once on the path, it was quick. There were ancient stone Buddha niches on the cliff wall, but most were badly weathered.

Looking at the Giant Buddha from the plank path, one couldn't help but be impressed by its majestic posture. The Buddha had broad shoulders and a wide chest, sitting against the mountain, arms naturally hanging down, large hands resting on knees, facing the turbulent confluence of three rivers with compassion and calm. Imagining back then, when the river was violent and often caused boats to capsize and people to drown, the monk Haitong, driven by the benevolent thought of Buddha saving sentient beings, resolved to carve a huge Maitreya Buddha statue on the cliff, hoping to rely on the Buddha's boundless power to turn violent waves into calm waters and benefit all beings. After ninety years of work by several generations, the Buddha was finally completed in the 19th year of Zhenyuan of Tang Dezong (AD 803).

According to historical records, the Buddha was originally painted in colorful gold. The red sandstone of Lingyun Mountain is soft and easy to carve but prone to weathering. To protect the statue, the ancients built a nine-story wooden pavilion to cover it, designed a scientific and hidden drainage system, and carried out repairs over the centuries, allowing the Buddha to stand here for 1,200 years. With a seated height of 71 meters, it is the world's largest stone Buddha statue. In December 1996, the Leshan Giant Buddha, together with Mount Emei, was inscribed on the World Natural and Cultural Heritage List. However, the world's tallest standing Buddha—the Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan, also carved over 1000 years ago—was not so lucky. Due to the arrogance and ignorance of the Taliban extremist organization, this world cultural heritage treasure was destroyed in 2001.

As the Nine-Bend Plank Path neared its end, the wide Buddha feet appeared before us, their size beyond my imagination. I remembered seeing a photo as a child with many people standing on one of the Buddha's toenails, which amazed me and sparked my original yearning for the Leshan Giant Buddha. Seeing it today was truly satisfying.

Standing on the platform by the river, looking up at the Maitreya's face, the Buddha's lowered eyes seemed to gaze upon us, all the ordinary people from all over, with the roar of the river in our ears. At that moment, I felt truly small. But the Buddha said, "In a grain of sand, a world; in a flower, a paradise. All beings are equal, and everyone can become a Buddha." The Buddha's wisdom and enlightenment were originally for self-fulfillment and saving others. Under the Buddha's light, no one is excluded. And the worries of life are not about external possessions but about the inner heart.

Passing the Buddha's feet, on the left side was the "Lingyun Plank Path" carved by modern people. It cut through cliffs and caves, hidden between steep cliffs, forming a circular route with the Nine-Bend Plank Path. We followed this path to Jizhi Gate, where there were two forks: one going up to the East Gate, and the other to the South Gate and Wuyou Temple. We chose the South Gate direction. This path had dense forests, few tourists, and a rustic charm, but it was a long way. We passed the Mahao Cliff Tomb from the Eastern Han Dynasty, which was included in the ticket, so we went in to look around. We were essentially the only visitors. The cliff tomb was a square cave carved by hand, slightly taller than a person. The deep part was off-limits, but lights were on inside, revealing some stone carvings and several beautiful stone reliefs on the walls.

Continuing forward, we passed a replica of a Qing Dynasty ancient town—Fisherman's Village—and saw a uniquely shaped arch bridge in the river to the right. On an island in the river, the vegetation was extremely dense, with faint outlines of eaves. That was Wuyou Temple. Since time was limited and we had to return to Chengdu in the evening, we didn't go there but went directly to the road, where there happened to be a Bus 13 stop.

Travel content includes not only sightseeing but also food and shopping. We asked a private taxi driver by the roadside and agreed on 20 yuan to take us to a famous Niuhua Tofu Pudding restaurant. There, we ordered Leshan specialties: beef sandwiches, tofu pudding, cold cake, and something called "fen." As for the taste, some were spicy, some were sweet, and we really couldn't handle them.

At 6:30, we boarded the bus back to Chengdu. Two hours later, we arrived at Xinnanmen Station. By then, the banks of the Jin River were lit up with lights, and a cool breeze blew, making it very pleasant. Thinking about the trip to Jiuzhaigou the next day, we didn't feel tired at all.

*Travel Tips Supplement:

Multiple bus stations in Chengdu and Leshan operate services between the two cities, but the stations correspond to each other. The bus from Xinnanmen goes to Xiaoba, which is the most convenient. Chengdu has continuous departures, while Leshan has a bus every 20 minutes. As soon as I got off the bus, I bought return tickets. The ticket seller said that if we returned early, we could exchange for an earlier ticket.

After viewing the Giant Buddha, if you take the "Lingyun Plank Path" up, unless you insist on seeing the Mahao Cliff Tomb or Wuyou Temple, it's better to go directly to the East Gate. There are some sights along the way that you didn't see on the way up. We didn't go that way because we mistakenly thought the East Gate was the main entrance to the scenic area, but actually the main entrance is the North Gate. From the East Gate, there is a Bus 13 stop, which saves a lot of distance and time compared to going to the South Gate and Wuyou Temple.

"Oriental Buddha Capital" is a man-made attraction. It is said to have some worth, but I generally don't go there, also considering time and cost.

If the itinerary is compact (Xinnanmen-Xiaoba-Main Entrance-Giant Buddha-East Gate-Xiaoba-Chengdu), half a day is enough to see the highlights of Leshan. You can come early, finish the tour, have lunch, return to Chengdu, take a nap on the bus, arrive at Xinnanmen Bus Station around 3-4 PM, then leisurely visit Kuanzhai Alley or Jinli, have dinner, and the day will be relaxed and comfortable.

**The Utmost Beauty of Jiuzhaigou (Before Entering the Valley)

Jiuzhaigou, I have longed for it for a long time.

There are two routes from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou: the western route via Dujiangyan and Wenchuan, 440 km, and the eastern route via Mianyang and Jiangyou, 530 km. The journey takes 9-12 hours. After the major earthquake, the western route was repaired and is now better and faster, so most people take this route to Jiuzhaigou. However, some travelers suggest taking a loop route round trip to enjoy different scenery along the way, which makes sense, but we had no choice since we were taking a long-distance bus, and the bus company decided the route.

We did not choose a tour group this time. Last year, we joined a group to Changbai Mountain, which was uncomfortable. We found out it wasn't as hard as imagined, but all the time was wasted in shopping outlets. Jiuzhaigou is a mature tourist destination with well-developed public transport. Xinnanmen Bus Station is the city's tourism distribution center. Every morning, around 7:20-7:50, buses depart for Jiuzhaigou every five minutes. We bought tickets for the 7:35 bus the day before.

By pure coincidence, on the day we set out, a road collapsed near Yingxiu in Wenchuan, so the bus had to take the eastern route. By the time we returned, the road was open, and we took the western route back. Indeed, the scenery on both sides was different. Also, because of the landslide, there were fewer tourists in Jiuzhaigou than usual during those two days, which was another advantage for us.

However, the eastern route took a full 12 hours. It started on the expressway, then turned onto ordinary roads. The further north we went, the more winding the roads became. Zeze got a bit carsick and was coaxed to sleep several times by her mother. At noon, the bus stopped in Pingwu for everyone to have lunch. The 15-yuan set meal was popular, with people queuing to buy it, as it was more substantial than bread and water. The bus stopped several times along the way, mainly for water and rest. Even the most experienced drivers need to be extra careful on this road.

The altitude at the entrance of Jiuzhaigou Valley is 2040 meters, 1500 meters higher than Chengdu, similar to climbing Mount Tai by car. So after entering Aba Prefecture, it gradually became cool. From Jiuzhaigou County to the valley entrance, it took about two more hours. In the early evening, we finally arrived at Jiutong Bus Station at the entrance. It is precisely because of the extremely inconvenient transportation in the past that Jiuzhaigou's pristine beauty was preserved. But now, with its growing fame and influx of tourists, this beauty is rapidly fading.

When we got off the bus, locals came up to offer accommodation, with standard rooms at only 150 yuan. I had booked a room at the Caogen Renjia Youth Hostel online for 280 yuan per night, which made me regret it a bit. But Zeze's mother comforted me, saying we didn't know what conditions those 150-yuan rooms had. With night falling, it was good to have a fixed place to stay. That made sense.

We hailed a taxi and agreed on 15 yuan to stop at the valley entrance to buy tickets and then take us to the hotel. The hostel was in Pengfeng Village, the nearest administrative village to Jiuzhaigou. It was located on both sides of a swift river, lined with hotels and shops, very lively, far from our usual impression of a village. Caogen Renjia was in a small alley. The room was nice, with carpet, but no toothbrushes or soap.

After dropping off our luggage, it was almost 9 PM. We ordered a few dishes at a small restaurant opposite our accommodation, drank two taels of homemade highland barley wine, spent nearly 200 yuan for five people, and the taste was mediocre. But it was our first proper meal and first drink since we set out.

After dinner, we took a short walk. There were still many people around. In the dim night, the distant mountains showed patches of black in various shades like clouds. It wasn't as cold as legend had it; a thin jacket over a T-shirt was enough.

We went to bed, agreeing to wake up at 5:30 the next morning.

*Travel Tips Supplement:

For buses from Xinnanmen to Jiuzhaigou, make sure to find the bus based on the specific time on the ticket. The time is used to distinguish different buses, but they don't strictly depart on time. Generally, before 8 AM, they leave when full. After we bought the tickets, we didn't carefully check the time and thought it was 7:30. That morning it was raining, and we hurriedly got on a bus marked 7:30, even seriously asking to swap seats to sit together. Later, we found our tickets clearly said 7:35. So we had to switch buses in a hurry and almost left a bag of fruit on the first bus.

The Jiuzhaigou Tourism Passenger Transport Center, i.e., Jiutong Bus Station, is a 10-15 minute walk along National Highway 301 to the valley entrance. Further ahead is Pengfeng Village, which is the gathering place for hotels and shops near the entrance. They often claim to be about 800 meters from the entrance, but walking takes 10-20 minutes. A taxi from here to the valley entrance (the main gate) generally costs no more than 10 yuan.

Jiuzhaigou entrance ticket is 220 yuan, and the internal transportation fee is 90 yuan. They seem to be sold together, and you can pay by card. The ticket is in the form of a postcard, but postage is not prepaid; you need to add stamps to send it. Half-price tickets use the old design with a face value of 170 yuan, stamped with "paid 110 yuan," postage paid, and can be mailed directly.

The ticket does not indicate a date, so if you find accommodation inside the valley on the first day, no one would know it's your second day even if they check tickets. Of course, we encountered no ticket checks throughout the day inside the valley.

Hotel prices in Jiuzhaigou vary greatly with seasons, visitor numbers, etc. Sometimes they change within a day. Booking online is like buying futures, and you need to pay a deposit.

Our group of five, including two people in their sixties and a five-and-a-half-year-old child, had no altitude sickness. Although we each drank two bottles of Rhodiola rosea the day before in Chengdu, I don't think it was due to that. I didn't see any oxygen stations in Jiuzhaigou.

**The Utmost Beauty of Jiuzhaigou

At 5:30, Zeze also got up. After a quick wash, we went to the same restaurant for breakfast. They had started cooking early, and the landlady was very warm. There were many taxis at the intersection. We took one directly to the valley entrance for 10 yuan. It was just getting light, and the main gate wasn't open yet.

At 6:30, the westernmost ticket gate started working. We entered and got on the first sightseeing bus. Within two minutes, it was full, and we set off. Our Jiuzhaigou trip officially began.

The first section had no special scenery. On the left side of the road, in the valley, the emerald river rushed. The bus went upstream and soon reached the first scenic spot—Heye Village (Lotus Leaf Village). This village is named because it looks like a large lotus leaf from above. This section is Shuzheng Valley. The sightseeing bus goes non-stop from the entrance to the Primeval Forest, but it provides commentary at each spot. I pressed against the window, greedily looking out. In the dawn, the entire Jiuzhaigou seemed still asleep. Was our engine sound disturbing her? Even this mere glance from the bus stirred my excitement—she was so beautiful.

The bus turned right at Nuorilang Center, and the mountain road became more winding. Zeze, having just eaten breakfast, felt carsick and said she wanted to vomit. The driver let us off at Arrow Bamboo Lake Station. Zeze vomited by the roadside. We were truly the first batch of visitors. From here until Five Flower Lake, we only saw groups of people.

In the early morning, Arrow Bamboo Lake was covered with a thin mist. The wide, blue-green water reflected the clouds and mountains. A few wild ducks swam by, creating ripples. On the other side of the lake, a plank path was faintly visible, but we didn't know how to get there. As we walked, we finally found the wooden plank path leading into the lake. This plank path was built over the rushing stream. Strolling along it, we felt merged into the natural emerald sea and layered waterfalls, accompanied by trees, flowers, water, and mountains. We really didn't want to break free.

Arrow Bamboo Lake Waterfall is 150 meters wide and only 7 meters high, with a gentle, soothing sound. It is one of the more elegant and quiet waterfalls in Jiuzhaigou. There is no clear water channel here, but a complex scene of trees standing in streams and water flowing among forests. Infected by the joy of thousands of streams flowing freely, even our steps became light.

Suddenly, a large area of crystal clear blue water appeared—we had reached Panda Lake. The peaks were reflected, and a few white-headed kingfishers flew and perched on broken logs floating on the water. Passing the lake, there was a flat rest area. Following the rumbling sound, we walked down the plank path. A fine mist of water hit us, and the Panda Lake Waterfall, with the greatest drop in Jiuzhaigou, appeared before us. The Panda Lake we had just passed was so calm, but the water rushed out from the lake mouth, suddenly plummeting, forming an extremely strong torrent, roaring and surging down to the valley bottom like thousands of horses neighing, with white waves and great momentum, like a grand concerto playing in a secluded forest.

From Panda Lake Waterfall to Five Flower Lake, there was another plank path along the mountain foot beside the stream. The forest became denser. Sometimes we saw large, tall trees lying on the slope with fresh breaks. There were many sunken logs in the water, and signs by the road warned "Beware of falling rocks, do not linger."

Five Flower Lake is the core scenic spot of Rize Valley. The water here, under the sky's reflection and the shapes of mountain and forest reflections, showed various colors: blue, green, white, like a fairy tale, exquisitely clear. Facing it, everything was so pure, so serene, so natural, as if the whole world had been washed clean. This was the most beautiful and dreamy water I had ever seen. Even though it lacked sunlight, its beauty was enough to make other water pay homage and surrender.

From here, we took a bus intending to go directly to Mirror Lake. The commentator said, "Why not go to Pearl Shoal? Pearl Shoal Waterfall is the most beautiful waterfall in Jiuzhaigou." In the materials I collected before the trip, Mirror Lake was over-described, while Pearl Shoal was mentioned less, so I thought it was just an ordinary spot to skip. So I was somewhat skeptical of her words, but we still got off at Pearl Shoal Station.

The stream spread over a large gentle slope shoal. The rock surface of the shoal was full of pits of various sizes, splashing countless droplets like pearls jumping and scattering. Bai Juyi's famous line "Large and small pearls falling onto a jade plate" could be the best description of this scene. Standing on the plank path in the middle of the shoal and looking forward, the torrent suddenly disappeared. Turning right off the plank path, a stretch of white waterfall appeared on the right, with mist and deafening sound. It turned out that the end of the slope shoal was a cliff. The surging shoal water fell straight into the valley, splitting rocks, forming several torrents, like thousands of troops shouting and advancing, displaying an irresistible explosive force and impact. Standing on the viewing platform directly in front of the waterfall, looking up, letting the spray and mist drench us, the scene blurred before our eyes, but our hearts were instantly filled with pride and sharpness. The water fell into Danzu Valley, continuing to rush wildly, rolling white waves tinged with green.

Following the plank path, we soon reached a fork. Turning right and crossing the bridge was Mirror Lake parking lot; going straight was Mirror Lake. We continued in the direction of Mirror Lake indicated by the sign. Along the way, we asked a cleaner if we had reached Mirror Lake. She said this was it. But there were reeds everywhere, and it didn't look like the mirror-like feeling we had imagined.

After walking for a while, we finally encountered another sign indicating that where we were was Mirror Lake. Really? The water surface was quite wide, and the reflection was not bad, but it didn't arouse much surprise in me. Perhaps the scenery along the way was so overwhelmingly beautiful that it piled up in my heart without time to digest, causing aesthetic fatigue. Looking back later, Mirror Lake was still very beautiful. Its beauty lies in its grandeur and calmness, in its ability to embrace the continuous mountains in its bosom while remaining so silent and peaceful. The turbulent upstream stream calmed down here, like leaning into a mother's arms, resting before moving on.

From the sign, we saw that the next stop, Nuorilang, was still far away. So we turned back to the Mirror Lake parking lot and took a sightseeing bus back to Nuorilang Center. At some point, it started drizzling. The sun rarely appeared, which was a great pity for viewing.

We took shelter from the rain at the Nuorilang Center waiting pavilion. It was already past noon. We heard that the restaurant here was very expensive, and online guides often advised bringing your own food. So we ate some snacks we had brought as lunch.

The rain continued. Zeze was a bit sleepy, so we took a sightseeing bus to Long Lake. Zeze could sleep on the bus to recharge.

The left branch of the Y-shaped route in Jiuzhaigou is Zechawa Valley, ending at the highest and largest lake in the scenic area—Long Lake. Along the way, we mainly passed Upper, Middle, and Lower Seasonal Lakes and Zechawa Village. Because the attractions were too concentrated, there were many tourists at Long Lake, which was quite different from our earlier experience.

The best viewing spot at Long Lake is the half-yin, half-yang pine tree, with one side bare and withered, the other lush and swaying, its trunk straight and reaching into the sky. The vast, dark blue lake was surrounded by green mountains, sparkling, appearing steady and solemn. White clouds lingered among the mountains, dreamlike and illusory. Thinking of the legendary water monsters here and the different Tibetan and Qiang cultures from the central plains, a sense of remoteness and mystery arose.

From Long Lake, we followed the crowd downhill, entering the plank path from the roadside. Ahead and below, a sapphire-like blue crystal faintly showed. The closer we got, the larger this crystal became. Finally, we saw clearly: in this deep valley, there was such a heavenly pool of clear water. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I would never have believed that such blue, such clear water existed in the world. It was so blue it made your heart drunk, so clear it made your spirit fly. The small, exquisite Five Color Pond—could it really be jade from heaven fallen to earth? Take more photos! Here, no skill or SLR camera was needed; as long as you pointed your lens at that water, you would surely capture the most beautiful picture in the world.

I think, although Zechawa Valley has few scenic spots, the Five Color Pond can fully represent Jiuzhaigou.

Exiting the Five Color Pond, we took the bus directly back to Nuorilang Center. Then we walked through the shopping hall, which was crowded and noisy. It felt unreasonable not to buy something. Since Zeze had carsickness in the morning, we hadn't gone to the Primeval Forest. It was now past 1:30, so we decided to go straight to the top of Rize Valley—the Primeval Forest.

Along the way, Zeze showed no obvious signs of carsickness. The bus passed Swan Lake and Sword Rock Hanging Spring. The hanging spring was thin and required careful observation on the large cliff. When we got off, we first went to the Sword Rock viewing platform. In the distance, Sword Rock looked like the tip of a sword, piercing the clouds.

Zeze found her joy here—there was a place to rent costumes for photos. We had seen such a place at Long Lake, but that one was crowded, and we had heard before that the prices here were cheaper. Indeed, perhaps also because of the drizzle, we rented a set of children's Tibetan robes for 10 yuan. Zeze was extremely happy, striking various poses to make full use of that 10 yuan.

The Primeval Forest scenic spot has a circular sightseeing plank path, and visitors are not allowed to go inside. This is actually just the edge of the primeval forest in Jiuzhaigou. Giant trees towered to the sky, dense and vast. Under the drizzling rain, the forest seemed even deeper and more magnificent. Happily, there were many small squirrels, keeping Zeze busy chasing after them.

We took the sightseeing bus from the Primeval Forest back to Nuorilang Center, then walked to Nuorilang Waterfall, officially starting the tour of Shuzheng Valley.

In Tibetan, "Nuorilang" means male god, extended to mean tall and majestic. Nuorilang Waterfall is nearly 300 meters wide, the widest waterfall in China. The viewing platform was crowded with people queuing for photos, which spoiled the scenery. This was due to herd mentality. Since the waterfall was very wide, we walked a little further, where there were fewer tourists and the viewing platform was slightly further from the waterfall, allowing us to better view and appreciate the waterfall's grandeur.

After viewing the waterfall, a fork appeared, one path leading to Mirror Lake. This was the connection point from Mirror Lake along the plank path.

Unlike most people who went up to the road to take the bus, we continued walking the plank path. This section had decent scenery. The stream was sandwiched at the bottom of the valley, with rushing water and leaping waves. We wanted to stop and look more, but the beautiful scenery ahead attracted us to hurry on. Since the plank path was narrow and without railings, if too many people walked together, it would be crowded and dangerous.

At a rest point, we saw that the plank path toward Rhinoceros Lake was closed, so we went up to the road and took a bus to Rhinoceros Lake.

I always thought rhinoceroses were animals from Africa and tropical Asia, and there had never been rhinos in Jiuzhaigou. But after searching online, I learned that Asian rhinos were originally from China and were once widely distributed, including in Sichuan. However, due to human influence and climate change, their range gradually moved south and shrank, until they became completely extinct in China in the 1950s.

The name "Rhinoceros Lake" is unusual among the valley's lakes, which are mostly named after shapes. It is the second largest lake in Jiuzhaigou and the signature spot of Shuzheng Valley. The lake surface was so vast and blue, with distant mountains and near grass clearly layered, broad in view. The green mountains and clouds were reflected. It was hard to tell which was the real mountain and which was the cloud shadow.

We crossed to the opposite bank via the wooden bridge at the southern end of the lake. There were no other tourists on this side. The plank path was shaded by dense forest on the hillside, cool and comfortable. On the left, in the wide water creek, flowers and trees grew thick. Suddenly a patch of deep blue mirror-like water appeared, then a low, surging cascade. Walking along, I felt a bit uneasy. I could see the road and cars on the opposite bank, but there was no way to cross.

Finally, a person came from the opposite direction, which eased my mind. Not far ahead, there was a wooden bridge. Seeing so many people again made me feel more at ease. Crossing the bridge, we arrived at a mill, said to be a filming location for the movie "A Young Boy's Adventure." I had seen that movie as a child, with gray tones. There weren't many movies then, so this one was famous and quite good. Nowadays, many tourist attractions associate themselves with movie filming locations to boost their reputation. Some even changed their names after movies, which is really unnecessary. Overdoing it actually lowers their value.

It was already past 5 PM, and everyone was very tired. So we gave up the idea of continuing along the plank path. We took the bus and got off at Spark Lake and Bonsai Shoal, viewing from the waterside platforms. Unexpectedly, Bonsai Shoal was beautiful. On the shallow shoal with flowing water, flowers, grass, and trees clustered in groups, like countless bonsai collections, posing gracefully.

We got on the bus, and all the beautiful scenery gradually receded. Turning back, towering green mountains stood, but the pure beauty of Jiuzhaigou was imprinted in my heart. Whenever I think of it, my soul will be washed, purified, and uplifted.

*Travel Tips Supplement:

The Jiuzhaigou scenic area is large, but one day is enough to visit it. In my view, you should enter the valley early, take the sightseeing bus directly to the Primeval Forest, then take the bus down to Arrow Bamboo Lake. The intermediate stops at Sword Rock Hanging Spring, Fangcao Lake, and Swan Lake are skipped. Remember to sit on the side facing the valley. After getting off at Arrow Bamboo Lake Station, walk back a bit to the plank path to the opposite shore, or walk down the highway to the plank path before Arrow Bamboo Lake Waterfall. This path passes Panda Lake and Five Flower Lake, then take a bus to Pearl Shoal. From Pearl Shoal Waterfall, walk along the plank path to Mirror Lake parking lot. Note: Mirror Lake is large, and its parking lot is at its easternmost end, not the Mirror Lake station on the sightseeing bus route. But there is a dedicated shuttle that brings passengers to Mirror Lake Station and Nuorilang Center. If you don't take the bus and continue on the plank path, you'll have to walk all the way to Nuorilang Waterfall to cross to the other side, which is very far. So it's recommended to take the bus to Mirror Lake Station. The station is opposite the center of Mirror Lake, with a small viewing platform that doesn't need much time. Then take the bus to Nuorilang Center.

At Nuorilang Center, take a short rest, have lunch, then take a bus to Zechawa Valley. The bus goes directly to Long Lake. Along the way, only Upper and Lower Seasonal Lakes are visible from the bus; no stops. Walk from Long Lake to Five Color Pond, then take the bus back to Nuorilang Center. Walk through the shopping hall to Nuorilang Waterfall, and then only Shuzheng Valley remains. If time allows, walk along the plank path to the next exit and take a bus to Rhinoceros Lake. Then visit the lakes of Shuzheng Valley in order. Each scenic spot has a sightseeing bus stop, and there are also plank paths between them.

All scenic spots in Jiuzhaigou can be reached by road or plank path, but some plank paths are either flooded or closed for safety reasons. The road and plank path are on opposite sides of the valley, offering different perspectives. The plank path is the main route for viewing.

The map of Jiuzhaigou scenic area is usually a large Y shape, for reference convenience, with south at the top and north at the bottom. On larger regional maps, the direction is opposite.

The lake water is blue and clear, you can see the bottom, but swimming is strictly prohibited.

It's not as cold as imagined inside the valley. A long-sleeved shirt is enough, at most a vest. You can bring a simple raincoat, but Jiuzhaigou usually has showers that come and go. Wearing a raincoat can be cumbersome; an umbrella is more convenient.

When returning from Long Lake, you can get off at Zechawa Village to see the Tibetan village. It's very close to Nuorilang Center.

**Majestic Dujiangyan

On the western route back from Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu, we pass through Songpan, Mao County, Wenchuan, and Dujiangyan. The total trip is about 9 hours. We planned to visit Dujiangyan directly when returning from Jiuzhaigou. To save time, we originally thought of leaving the valley at 4-5 PM, finding a way to go to Songpan first, which takes about two hours, staying there overnight, seeing this ancient town, then taking a bus to Dujiangyan the next day.

In the afternoon, there was no way to go from Jiuzhaigou to Songpan except by renting a car for 300 yuan. Accommodation in Songpan was easy, but the bus ticket from Songpan to Dujiangyan was difficult to obtain; we needed someone to buy it for us while we were in Jiuzhaigou. However, on the night we arrived at Jiuzhaigou, we found that the hotel could buy us a bus ticket from Jiuzhaigou to Dujiangyan, departing at 6:30 AM. So we decided to be on the safe side and skip Songpan, which allowed us to have a more relaxed time in Jiuzhaigou.

At 6:30 AM, after breakfast, the hotel staff took us to the intersection to board the bus. We left Jiuzhaigou in the cool morning air. The bus soon entered winding mountain roads. There was a place called Nine Turns, but I couldn't count how many turns—just repeated hairpin bends. Zeze felt a bit uncomfortable, and since she had woken up early, she soon fell asleep in her mother's arms.

The road followed the Min River. The mountains on both sides towered, and the river widened. On the opposite bank was the original national highway damaged by the earthquake, now designated as the "5.12 Wenchuan Earthquake Site." Seeing it still brought to mind the tragedy of that year. Passing through Beichuan, Wenchuan, and Yingxiu, we saw brand-new buildings and schools, with little trace of the disaster. But the unprecedented national unity and perseverance triggered by that earthquake will long remain our spiritual driving force.

In Beichuan, we passed several statues of Yu the Great, as this is his hometown. Our country is truly vast. In that era, Yu the Great's footsteps already reached rivers, lakes, and seas. He was born in the mountains of northern Sichuan and died in Guiji Mountains south of the Yangtze. Even today, the spatial distance of his actions is impressive.

Around 3 PM, we were dropped off at an intersection in Dujiangyan City. We then took a taxi directly to the main entrance of the scenic area—Lidui Park. Not far from the gate was a fountain, with several water jets shooting from the ground, forming a dome-shaped water curtain. In the middle were replicas of the iron pillars used in the weir; the originals are still underwater, functioning. The greatness of Dujiangyan lies in the fact that a water conservancy and irrigation project built during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods has been functioning for over 2,000 years, fully demonstrating Chinese wisdom. This is truly a miracle. As a historical relic, Dujiangyan has survived without being damaged by political or religious changes, mainly because of its practicality. Over thousands of years, facing various degrees of geological disasters, Dujiangyan has remained intact, thanks to the ancients' full use of natural terrain to guide the water with minimal artificial construction. This harmonious coexistence between man and nature is the highest realm of human understanding and transformation of nature.

Passing the fountain, we walked along the Yan Gong Path (Merit Path), flanked by bronze statues of those who contributed to the project over the centuries. Like all projects, Dujiangyan requires routine maintenance and repairs. The difference is that here this work has continued for over two thousand years without interruption. Along the path are two small channels. Following the Taoist philosophy of "Wuji generates Taiji, Taiji generates two forms, two forms generate four symbols, four symbols evolve into eight trigrams," 248 dragon heads spout water, creating a spectacular sight.

Lidui (Separated Mound), as the name implies, is part of the main mountain separated when Li Bing cut through Yulei Mountain to build the Baopingkou (Precious Bottle Gauge). On top of the mound stands Fulong Temple (Dragon Subduing Temple). In the front hall, there is a stone statue of Li Bing carved in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Behind the hall, on the right, a winding staircase leads down to Baopingkou. Leaning on the railing and looking down, the muddy yellow river water rushed rapidly through the narrow bottle-neck gorge, flowing towards the fertile Chengdu Plain. Baopingkou was the first phase of the Dujiangyan irrigation system, artificially chiseled by using fire to crack rocks. It is shaped like a bottle neck and is the throat of the inner river. The naturally formed Lidui also helps block and support the water, creating favorable conditions for the sand-discharge and flood-release functions of Feishayan (Flying Sand Weir).

Exiting Fulong Temple and heading west, crossing a suspension bridge, we arrived at Feishayan. This is the third phase of Dujiangyan. The scenery here is sparse, but it is the key hub where Li Bing further regulated the water volume after the Fish Mouth water diversion, using the centrifugal force of the water flow to collect sediment and even boulders carried by the river, ensuring the smooth flow of Baopingkou. This is also the best viewing platform for Lidui and Baopingkou. The river water is split in two by Lidui: one part flows left into Baopingkou, the other part stalls in front of the weir. During floods, the water will overflow the spillway back into the main stream of the Min River. Looking across, the mountain was lush and green, with Lidui topped by scattered rooftops, full of vitality and antique charm. Human creation and function had already merged with the mountains and water, becoming inseparable.

We took the scenic area sightseeing bus from Feishayan to Yuzui (Fish Mouth). This is the foremost part of Dujiangyan. Li Bing used a natural river island to build a fish-mouth-shaped diversion dike, thrusting into the river center, splitting the river in two. It achieved a 40-60 water division in dry and wet seasons, providing a stable irrigation source for the Chengdu Plain. Looking ahead at the Min River, it was no longer the narrow, cramped view we saw on the way back from Jiuzhaigou. It was vast and wide, with a clear line of white waves rolling at the Fish Mouth.

From the railing on the inner river, looking east, we saw Yulei Mountain covered in dense green forest. The connection between the two is the famous Anlan Suspension Bridge. This suspension bridge existed in ancient times but was destroyed in the late Ming Dynasty. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, it was rebuilt with funds raised by the He couple and was named Anlan Bridge. What we see today is not the original; it was rebuilt in the 1970s when the outer river sluice was built. The original bamboo cables were replaced with stronger steel cables, and the wooden piers were replaced with concrete piles. Because its position was moved 100 meters downstream from Yuzui, the bridge length was halved from 500 meters. Even so, the Anlan Suspension Bridge still spans the river like a belt, retaining its ancient charm and grandeur.

Stepping onto the bridge, the feeling was extraordinary—one word: wobbly! You had to hold tightly to the steel cables. The more you wanted it to stop swaying, the more nervous you became. Below was the surging river, and you couldn't help but look at it and think about it. So you had to steel yourself and walk ahead with determination. Zeze remembered this bridge well. Having crossed it, we still felt dizzy for a minute or so.

After crossing the bridge, we arrived at Erwang Temple (Temple of Two Kings). The entire building complex was built following the mountain's contours, forcing you to look up as you entered. It was originally a temple to commemorate Li Bing and his son. By the Song Dynasty, they were granted the title of kings, and after the Qing, it was renamed Erwang Temple. It was severely damaged in the Wenchuan earthquake but has been restored without a trace. The incense here is still strong. On the screen wall facing the temple gate is a large inscription by Comrade Deng Xiaoping: "Benefiting Ten Thousand Generations."

We did not go to Qinyan Tower; we just walked a section of the Songmao Ancient Road and turned back. Actually, you could cross Yulei Mountain from here and find another exit on the other side. But after nearly ten hours of walking in Jiuzhaigou yesterday, eight hours on the bus today, carrying our luggage, and needing to return to Chengdu in the evening, we gave up on going further.

Exiting Dujiangyan, we saw a bustling covered bridge not far away, with multiple eaves and soaring ridges, spectacular and magnificent. We couldn't resist walking over. Inside, the bridge was decorated with painted beams and carved rafters, full of ancient charm. Under the setting sun, the inner river water rolled eastward under the bridge. Baopingkou appeared faintly, and Yulei Pass stood tall. This is the "First Bridge at the Source of Tianfu" —the Southern Bridge.

We took Bus 4 outside the scenic area gate. After more than half an hour, we arrived at Dujiangyan Intercity Train Station and bought the 19:48 bullet train tickets for only 15 yuan. We had a simple meal at the station. At 8:30, we arrived at Chengdu Station on time and then bought tickets for the next day's bullet train to Chongqing (departing after 4 PM).

This was our second time in Chengdu within three days. Tomorrow, we would explore it properly.

*Travel Tips Supplement:

The Dujiangyan Scenic Area Visitor Center offers luggage storage, but it's not free. Each piece costs 5 yuan, and they close at 5:30 PM. Last year, I stored luggage at Jingpo Lake, Yuantouzhu, and Lingshan Giant Buddha—all free and with good service. Shame on Dujiangyan.

The scenic area postbox is attached to the wall on the west side of the main gate, the familiar old-fashioned iron square green box.

The sightseeing bus within Dujiangyan Scenic Area (Feishayan-Yuzui) costs 10 yuan one way, 15 yuan round trip. If you're not sure you'll return the same way, buy a one-way ticket; on your return, you can pay 5 yuan at Yuzui with the original ticket.

I had originally planned to visit Mount Qingcheng as well, but after Jiuzhaigou, climbing a mountain was beyond our physical strength.

The intercity bullet trains between Dujiangyan, Mount Qingcheng, and Chengdu are very convenient, comfortable, economical, and fast.

**Chongqing, the Mountain City

At first, we didn't necessarily intend to come to Chongqing. After Chengdu, we were going to Xi'an to catch a flight. But after checking online, we found that the train from Chengdu to Xi'an takes about 15 hours, departing in the evening and arriving the next afternoon. However, the train from Chongqing to Xi'an only takes 11 hours, with a temporary train departing in the evening and arriving early the next morning in Xi'an, giving us a full day in Xi'an. The bullet train between Chengdu and Chongqing is even more convenient, taking only 2 hours. So we decided to see Chongqing. Although we would only stay less than 24 hours, it's a big city—it's hard to live there, and it's also hard to see everything.

Chongqing is one of China's four direct-controlled municipalities. In fact, as early as the pre-Qin period, it was the capital of the Ba state. During the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, it was the administrative center of Sichuan province. In 1939, it became one of the six direct-controlled municipalities under the Nationalist government, and even served as the provisional capital during the War of Resistance. In 1997, Chongqing regained its municipality status, sitting in the southwest, forming a triangular force with the other municipalities.

Chongqing's night scenery is famous. We arrived in the evening, went to the hotel, dropped off our luggage, and took a bus directly to Nanshan Yikeshu (One Tree on South Mountain), the best place to view Chongqing's night scene. We went up from the viewing platform to the top terrace of the viewing pavilion. Looking down, in the dim night, the Yuzhong District looked like a huge crystal ark floating on the river, covered with pearls, like stars scattered on the shore, dazzling with flowing light. Unfortunately, perhaps due to power restrictions in Chongqing, not many lights were on, and they were extinguished early.

On South Mountain, we also enjoyed an outdoor dinner properly. The crescent moon lay in the clouds, appearing and disappearing. Low shrubs surrounded the dining tables. Under the dim yellow light, we tasted the homemade osmanthus wine. A cat lazily walked by. In the complete silence, words were superfluous; only thoughts could wander freely. This night in Chongqing was worth savoring.

The next day, we went directly to Ciqikou Ancient Town. Because we arrived early, many shops were just opening. Ciqikou began in the Song Dynasty and became a prosperous commercial port in the Ming Dynasty. In the early Qing Dynasty, because the area produced blue-and-white porcelain, it was named Ciqikou (Porcelain Port). Due to its prosperity, it was praised as "Little Chongqing." With its rich cultural heritage, it is said, "One stone road, a thousand years of Ciqikou."

The town's roads were all paved with stone slabs. Although the buildings on both sides had been renovated in modern times, through the old door panels and decaying eaves, the marks of historical vicissitudes could still be seen. Looking at these rows of old houses, it was pleasant to feel nostalgic for the past, but actually living here would not be comfortable.

Ciqikou has many famous local Chongqing foods, such as Chen Mahua (Chen's Fried Dough Twist). But when we approached, we found several shops claiming to be "Chen Mahua," making it hard to tell the real from the fake. Later, we heard that all were fake. Actually, with local specialties, it's hard to distinguish true from false. The name "Chen Mahua" itself is problematic. I wonder if it can be registered as a trademark. Since any Mahua made by someone surnamed Chen could reasonably be called that, it's essentially a generic product name. After checking online, I found a relatively authentic Chen Mahua — Chen Changyin, whose company is Chongqing Ciqikou Chen Mahua Food Co., Ltd. Indeed, on its official website, it states that its registered trademarks are "Chen Changyin" and "Guzhen Chen Ma," and its storefronts uniformly use "Guzhen Chen Mahua" as the sign. But puzzlingly, in the "Store Display" photos on its website, some signs are not its standard font combination, and some clearly belong to the "fake" Chen Mahua shops. A few of them were exactly the places I visited in Ciqikou. It seems that market-oriented brand awareness is still lacking here. I bought some randomly, and the taste was not bad.

After visiting Ciqikou, we continued walking to the famous Geleshan. I heard that a few days earlier, the area had been surrounded to search for a murderer, who was later shot, so the situation had eased. Geleshan indeed had very dense forests. This natural summer resort felt psychologically gloomy because of the notorious Baigongguan (White Mansion) and Zhazidong (Pit Cave) from over 60 years ago, as well as the nationally famous novel "Red Crag."

Baigongguan and Zhazidong are both built on the mountainside, not far from each other, and both are small in area. Here, the only difference was in political views between the interrogators and the interrogated. Prisons have no class nature. But different political views cannot be a shield for right and wrong. In the overall social development trend of that time, the Communist Party members imprisoned there indeed represented the progressive forces of society. Their reasonable demands for freedom and democracy were not tolerated by the authorities. In the choice between life and ideals, they resolutely chose to sacrifice for their ideals.

Whether a person's life ends at 30 or 80 is of great significance to the individual as a physical being. But once a person has broad thoughts, lofty pursuits, and resolute will, life becomes merely a carrier for existence, no longer the primary concern. Therefore, even if life ends, their great personality can still shine through the ages, admired and followed by future generations. This spirit transcends party lines and time; it is the inherent spiritual endowment of humanity that continuously creates civilization and progress. These were truly outstanding representatives of the human race.

I was reminded of Petőfi's famous poem: "Life is dear, love is dearer, but for the sake of freedom, both can be given up." In this place where martyrs gave up life and love for freedom, one can better appreciate the true meaning of the poem.

At noon, we went to Hongyadong for lunch. Hongyadong faces the big river, built against the cliff, majestic and antique. Most of the restaurants inside serve local specialties, very distinctive. I've forgotten exactly what we ate, but the feeling of eating heartily and comfortably at that little shop with its original wood square tables and long benches has stayed with me.

From Hongyadong, we walked to Chaotianmen. It was around 2-3 PM, scorching hot. The riverside square was unbearable, and since it was under renovation, we didn't stay long. We took a taxi to Jiefangbei.

Jiefangbei is the commercial hub of Chongqing, with towering high-rises—a typical urban forest. We bought Zeze a delicious and expensive foreign ice cream by the roadside. I think she will remember this place fondly.

We returned to the hotel to pick up our luggage, had an early dinner nearby, and took a taxi to Chongqing North Station around 6:30 PM to catch the 19:37 train. Then came the problem.

Our hotel was located at the southern exit of Caiyuanba Bridge. The day before, it took 20 minutes from the train station to the hotel, but today was different—traffic jam. Thanks to the taxi driver! He wove through streets and alleys, driving at full speed, and got us to the station ten minutes before departure. His last words reflected his professionalism: "You took my car, so no matter what, I couldn't let you miss your train."

Chongqing, at the very last moment before we left, still showed and conveyed your rigor and warmth.

*Travel Tips Supplement:

There are not many tourist attractions in downtown Chongqing, and most are free. Ciqikou and Geleshan are in the same area and can be visited in a day. There are sightseeing buses connecting Baigongguan, Zhazidong, and other Red Crag sites, costing 20 yuan per person.

Trains to Chongqing usually stop at North Station. It is said that the downtown Chongqing Station will be transformed into an intercity station in the future.

The temporary train L218 from Chongqing North to Xi'an is an old green train, quite dirty, without air conditioning or hot water.

**Famen Temple: Past and Present

I had been to Xi'an many years ago, visiting Huaqing Pool, the Terracotta Warriors, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, and the Shaanxi History Museum, and even climbed Mount Hua. Xi'an has been prosperous since ancient times, with a solid cultural heritage. Everywhere I went, I felt the thick historical depth, showcasing the most brilliant peak of our country and nation. Back then, I regretted not visiting Famen Temple. This time, we had only one day and one night in Xi'an, limited time. After getting off the train and having breakfast, we went directly to Famen Temple.

Famen Temple is a major attraction on the western route of Xi'an tourism. Actually, Famen Temple is located in Fufeng County, Baoji City, about 100 km from downtown Xi'an, about an hour's drive. Around 10 AM, we arrived at the gate of the Famen Temple Cultural Scenic Area.

Famen Temple gained worldwide fame in 1987 when the finger bone relic of Sakyamuni Buddha was discovered in its underground palace. People travel thousands of miles to see the true face of the Buddha's relic. However, the relic is not easily seen. According to the scenic area staff, it is only displayed on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, and on weekends; otherwise, it cannot be seen.

The Famen Temple Cultural Scenic Area consists of two main parts. From the main gate, passing through the Mountain Gate Square and the Buddha's Light Avenue, to the He Ten Sarira Stupa, is the first part—the modern Buddhist area. From one side of the Buddha's Light Avenue, you enter the second part—the restored ancient temple area. The entire scenic area is vast and magnificent, especially the He Ten Sarira Stupa, 148 meters high, with a unique shape. Inside, it is splendidly decorated, comparable to the Brahma Palace at Lingshan in Wuxi. Moreover, the stupa houses the only existing Buddha finger bone relic in the world, making all other temples bow in reverence.

Between the Mountain Gate and the He Ten Sarira Stupa Square is the 1230-meter-long Buddha's Light Avenue, a 108-meter-wide concrete road without any shade. Walking under the sun is difficult—perhaps a symbol of the hardships needed to reach the other shore. But modern people have found a solution: several sightseeing buses serve as vessels, alleviating the suffering and filling their pockets. However, these sightseeing buses are shaped like little trains, running back and forth in front of the solemn Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, which seems rather comical.

We were very lucky; it was Saturday, so we could reverently view the relic. Although we couldn't see it clearly no matter how hard we looked, it was still an intimate encounter with this sacred object, showing our affinity with the Buddha. There was a free sutra copying area, where you could pick a passage of scripture. Brushes and ink were provided; you could copy it without minding others and take it home or leave it there. That was interesting.

This modern Buddhist area clearly cost a lot of money. It is said to be the work of a famous architect who designed Taipei 101. But I felt it was too hard and restless. The main reason was the lack of undulating terrain, flowing water, and lush trees. From the mountain gate, you could see everything at a glance, lacking depth and layering. In this respect, it couldn't compare to Lingshan in Wuxi. If the weather had been clear with blue skies and cool breeze, it would have been fine. But on the day we went, although there was sun, it was hazy, which dampened the mood.

Except for a brick pagoda from the Ming Dynasty, the ground structures of the ancient Famen Temple have long disappeared in the river of time. If not for the decision in 1987 to rebuild the pagoda, Famen Temple might not have today's glory and prosperity. The restored ancient temple area is mainly a monastery rebuilt on the original site, with the highlight being the Famen Temple Museum.

The underground palace of Famen Temple was never looted, and 2,499 Tang Dynasty treasures were unearthed, truly breathtaking. While admiring these exquisite art treasures, we should especially remember those who fearlessly protected the national treasures, even sacrificing their lives. During the Republic of China period, Zhu Ziqiao organized the repair of the Famen Temple pagoda. They discovered the stone slab covering the underground palace. In the war-torn era, Zhu Ziqiao thought it over and decided to seal the entrance, making all the workers swear to keep it secret. In 1966, faced with the Red Guards' frenzied destruction of the temple and digging, the abbot of Famen Temple, Master Liangqing, sacrificed himself by self-immolation to save the underground palace from disaster. These were great people who truly practiced the great principles of Buddhism.

When we came out, it was 2 PM. Hungry, we ate at a vegetarian restaurant near the main gate. It was a buffet, enough to fill us, but the taste was average.

My overall impression of the Famen Temple scenic area was disappointing. Too many new things, and the motive for making money was too obvious. Buddhas are supposed to save sentient beings from suffering. Although investment needs returns, and sentient beings are now tourists, you shouldn't be sharpening your knives. The scenic area's construction also lacked the setting of forests and the nourishment of water, making it less spiritual and interesting. However, those thousand-year-old Tang Dynasty treasures, the legendary experience of the Famen Temple underground palace, and the unique Buddha finger bone relic are enough to inspire longing, lingering, and reflection.

Returning from Famen Temple, we went directly to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda Square to watch the 6 PM music fountain. This was arranged specifically for Zeze. The Buddhas and Bodhisattvas didn't attract her much, but the fountain was just her thing. Zeze's mother and I revisited the old places, with a special feeling seeing scenes long sealed in memory reappear.

**Return Journey and Afterword

From our accommodation in Xi'an to Xianyang Airport, it was about a 20-minute drive. In the morning mist, we arrived at the vast airport square. Our group had originally been five people, but for this flight, we split into two groups in Chongqing. Zeze's grandparents stayed another night in Chongqing and took the K16 train back the next day. That train had a good schedule: departing Chongqing North at 12:50 PM and arriving at Yanzhou at 1 PM the following day. Meanwhile, the three of us rushed to Xi'an overnight, stayed one night, and then took the early morning flight to Jinan, followed by a long-distance bus home. Both groups arrived home at about the same time.

This was Zeze's first flight. Although she woke up early, she was still excited, bouncing around the waiting hall and posing for photos. The plane took off on time. It circled on the runway, then roared and tilted upward, as if eager to escape the constraints and hardships of the ground, soaring freely in the vast sky.

Through the window, the silver wing trembled slightly in the air, its surface smooth but somewhat rough. Zeze sat by the window, turning her head to look outside. The sun came out. Below the plane were thick, foam-like white clouds, like thick cotton candy. If you stepped on them, it must be soft. Ancient painters and poets could only look up at the high white clouds, sketching their beautiful imaginations of this unreachable mysterious space. If they could see such a scene as we do today, what great poems and magnificent paintings they might create!

A simple breakfast was served on the plane: a box of porridge, two pastries, a small pack of pickles, and hot tea available on request. These normally bland foods, in this specific narrow cabin, accompanied by the endless sea of clouds outside, suddenly had some flavor or even charm. Just like being in a deep forest with a stream, a bridge, a beautiful lady playing the zither, and twilight all around. Even the coarsest tea would make you drink with intoxication.

Beautiful things are always short-lived. The plane began to descend, quickly passing through the clouds. The sky gradually turned from bright to gray. On the ground, crisscrossing streets, rivers, and villages appeared. From this angle overlooking the earth, our usual field of vision was so narrow—seeing only the trees, not the forest.

We arrived at Jinan Yaoqiang Airport. The plane slowed down and stopped steadily. There was a direct bus from the airport to Jining Long-Distance Bus North Station, costing 120 yuan per person, but it departed at 11 AM. It was only 8:30, so we took the airport shuttle bus to downtown Jinan bus station (20 yuan per person, 40 minutes; Zeze got a half-price ticket). There, we boarded a long-distance bus to Jining. Unexpectedly, the bus did not take the expressway but the entire 104 National Highway, taking over four hours to arrive.

The trip finally ended. Over ten days, we traveled among six cities and ten scenic areas. For the first time in my life, I set foot in the Sichuan and Chongqing region. The human culture and natural beauty were all captivating and unforgettable. From the hometown of Confucius and Mencius to the capital of Bashu, it was about 3,000 li away. Yet both places are still quite a distance from our country's borders. Facing these ancient and new cities, this beautiful and rich land, I felt immense pride. Our motherland's vast territory, magnificent mountains and rivers, and flourishing culture—how can we, who live and thrive here, not love it, protect it, and contribute our sincerity and strength for its pride and prosperity?