A Chengdu Travelogue Written by an Old Chengdu Native

Hello, Chengdu

Perhaps this is the only city in China that uses 'comfortable' and 'fun' as its calling cards.

The pace of life here is not fast.

Life here is carefree and unrestrained.

Life here is leisurely and interesting.

A pot of spicy red broth, a cup of clear tea—these create the earthly烟火 atmosphere of Chengdu.

'Without teahouses, how would Chengdu people live?'

This was a saying I often heard from my grandparents and parents when I was a child.

Chengdu people's lives can be described as half in hot pot and half in teahouses.

Hot pot lets you experience the warmth and liveliness of Chengdu people;

teahouses let you experience their leisure and ease.

In People's Park, order a cup of the old Chengdu favorite—Sanhua tea—lie back in a bamboo chair, slowly chat with friends, and half a day passes by.

In Chengdu, it seems everyone is an optimist.

I still remember the 2008 earthquake; optimistic Chengdu people gathered in Tianfu Square, shouting 'Sichuan, rise up!'—a sound that pierced the sky.

In Chengdu, even the national treasure pandas, like Chengdu people, are attached to this land of joy and freedom.

And here is the place with the most pandas in the world.

Escaping the concrete and steel of the city, the green mountains and clear waters of Dujiangyan and Qingcheng Mountain let Chengdu people breathe the freshest air to their hearts' content.

The atmosphere of Chengdu seems dominated by spicy and savory flavors; food lovers indulge their passion in the world of chili and Sichuan pepper.

From hot pot to Sichuan cuisine, Chengdu people are almost harsh when it comes to food and taste.

But Chengdu people are hardly critical of their environment;

they are adept at discovering food in every 'nook and cranny'; an ordinary small noodle shop can attract countless luxury cars.

And the heavier the flavor of oil-braised skewers, the more they captivate everyone.

In Chengdu, innovative people combine shrimp paste with the small chili peppers they love, creating a unique snack.

In Chengdu, if you haven't had a hearty Chengdu-style barbecue, can you say you've been to Chengdu?

Strictly speaking, I am a third-generation Chengdu native.

My grandfather came from Danzishi, Chongqing; my maternal grandfather from Nanjing, Jiangsu;

answering the nation's call, they came to Chengdu and to the Chengdu Measuring and Cutting Tools Factory.

Here, they married, had children, and put down roots in Chengdu.

I was born in the late 1980s and have witnessed the tremendous changes in Chengdu over the past 30 years.

The People's Park of my childhood is now a concentration of the comfortable life of old Chengdu people.

The wildly popular little train in the park is long gone.

But the fragrance of tea at the century-old Heming Teahouse still wafts through the air.

As a Chengdu native, when writing this travelogue, I may include some Chengdu dialect/Sichuan dialect.

Here is a simple primer:

[Comfortable/Anyi] When Sichuan people like something, their favorite expression is 'comfortable' or 'this is so comfortable.'

[How/Langge] Pronounced 'lang ge,' it indicates doubt, meaning 'what's going on?'

[Longmenzhen] Means chatting.

[Xuān boiling water] Boiling water.

[Huō you] Means to deceive someone.

[Electric horse/Diàn mǎ'er] Refers to an electric scooter.

In this travelogue, I won't write about the very traditional attractions. Information about places like Wuhou Shrine, Jinli, Du Fu's Thatched Cottage, Qingyang Palace, and Huanhua Stream is readily available online.

As a Chengdu native, we don't frequent these places.

I will write from a local's perspective, sharing lesser-known but worthwhile spots and local food, along with my feelings.

When I was born, Chengdu did not have the current districts; there were only East City District and West City District.

At that time, the Second Ring Road hadn't been built, and the eastern part of Chengdu was still farmland and wasteland, commonly called the 'Eastern Suburb' by Chengdu people.

In the 1950s, workers from all over the country gathered in the Eastern Suburb, laying the first cornerstone of Chengdu's industry on empty land.

Among them, the Chengdu Measuring and Cutting Tools Factory was a representative.

In my childhood, I often saw my maternal grandfather take out his old notebooks, densely filled with hand-drawn blueprints, covered in Chinese and Russian—a缩影 of that era.

Back then, the Soviet Union helped build the Harbin Cutting Tools Factory, and the Chengdu Cutting Tools Factory was a direct copy of it.

In my childhood memory, this building was called the 'Measuring Tools Building.'

It could almost be considered the representative landmark of Chengdu at the time.

A Russian-style building with a tall spired tower, painted a pale yellow;

it could be called the most beautiful scenery in Chengdu.

Summers in Chengdu are humid and sweltering, but the basement under the building was the coolest place to escape the heat for us.

As a child, I would eagerly await nightfall, ride on the back of a bicycle, choose a factory gate where an acquaintance was on duty, slip into the basement, and feel a rush of coolness.

In the era without air conditioning, this was the best way to cool off.

Now, the Cutting Tools Factory has relocated, and the people who once lived in the factory area have dispersed.

When I was young, I often complained to my mother that living here meant having to greet a bunch of uncles, aunties, grandpas, and grandmas just to go downstairs to buy soy sauce—it was so tiring.

As kids, we dared not cause trouble; everyone around was a familiar face—a seamless 'human surveillance camera.'

Now, having started my own family and having a child, I feel even more nostalgic for the beauty and freedom of childhood life.

Back then, we could freely run from our residential block to the next; sneak a sausage from the fridge, run to our 'secret base' to light a fire and roast it; and when discovered by adults, quickly 'flee with the evidence.'

The Cutting Tools Factory has long since moved, but the history left by our grandparents and parents with their youth and sweat has merged into Chengdu city.

As the 'third-generation factory kids,' we have completely fallen in love with Chengdu; Chengdu has become our hometown.

Chengdu has never lacked parks, but no park can replace People's Park.

It preserves the down-to-earth side of Chengdu: different groups of square-dancing aunties dance gracefully here; calligraphy-loving uncles wield brushes with bold strokes.

The Monument to the Martyrs of the Railway Protection Movement in the park records a milestone in Chinese history.

In 1911, the Railway Protection Movement broke out in Sichuan, and this 31.85-meter-high monument commemorates the movement's martyrs.

The base of the monument is engraved with reliefs of locomotives and signal lights.

From the former Shaocheng Park to the Railway Protection Monument to today's People's Park;

No matter one's age, everyone can find their own leisure here.

A teahouse with strong Sichuan characteristics is hidden in a corner of People's Park.

Sunlight filters through the carved windows, falling onto the slightly 'patinaed' bamboo chairs.

The lotus flowers in the distance haven't fully bloomed yet, but the green leaves bring a touch of coolness.

When the lotus flowers bloom, photography enthusiasts will come to take pictures.

And the boating in People's Park is also a fond childhood memory for many old Chengdu people.

Strictly speaking, for Chengdu people, there are three essential things to do.

Among these, drinking tea and playing mahjong are done in teahouses.

It's hard to imagine how Chengdu people would live without teahouses.

I once saw data that said there are over 10,000 teahouses in Chengdu alone; among these 10,000, Heming is like a 'white moonlight.'

In People's Park, this century-old teahouse is basically packed every day.

If you want to experience the most authentic way of drinking tea, you must come to Heming early in the morning.

At 7:45 AM, the aunties who have finished their morning tea have already left hand in hand;

their next stop is the market, getting busy with the family's three meals.

The founder of Heming Teahouse came from Dayi County near Chengdu.

After a century of development, the tiger-head stoves and buildings here have become witnesses to Chengdu's history.

These bamboo chairs are what Chengdu people like. They lack comfortable ergonomics; sitting in them for a long time, you might even feel your 'butt hurting.'

But this is also a sign for Chengdu people to judge whether a teahouse is 'authentic' or not.

Sichuan is a major bamboo-producing province; just like giant pandas love bamboo, Sichuan people also love using bamboo.

Perhaps this is related to bamboo's toughness, like the indomitable nature of Sichuan people.

Chengdu people are very particular about tea drinking; the tea doesn't have to be top-grade—'Sanhua'er' will do.

But the tea set must be covered bowl tea (gaiwan).

The lid represents heaven, the saucer represents earth, and the cup represents humanity. When you pour the tea and cover it, it embodies the harmony of 'heaven, earth, and man.'

A cup of gaiwan tea reveals the philosophy of Chengdu people.

A cup of Sanhua tea is truly the favorite of Chengdu people. They love jasmine tea, simply called 'flower tea.'

Jasmine tea is graded into three levels. The third level is the lowest, so Chengdu people directly call it 'Sanhua tea.'

Chengdu people don't fuss over the temperature or strength of the tea; they care about 'feelings.'

Using the lid to gently skim the tea leaves and jasmine blossoms aside also brushes away life's worries.

A cheap cup of Sanhua tea can relax a Chengdu person.

And chatting with a few good friends—'Longmenzhen'—is what truly matters in the eyes of Chengdu people.

A cup of tea, a dish of peanuts—this is the scene of an old man leaving after his morning tea.

And here, old newspapers are still sold.

The old man reads the Chengdu Business News; in this age of smartphones, this is still how old Chengdu people like to get news.

In these old Chengdu people, you can see their calm and ease.

A joke, even a bit of teasing, turns into smiles on everyone's faces.

Chengdu teahouses are often buzzing with chatter as everyone engages in 'flavorful' Longmenzhen.

Light Sanhua tea paired with 'flavorful' conversations—this is the essence of old Chengdu teahouses.

Beijing has hutongs, Shanghai has longtang, and Chengdu has alleys (standard Chengdu pronunciation: hàng ēr).

The new Chengdu has trendy IFS, the new internet-famous spiral bridge; but the essence of Chengdu doesn't change with time, like the city center's Tianfu Square, or the last Qing dynasty imprint—Kuanzhai Alley.

During the day, Kuanzhai Alley belongs to tourists from outside.

But when night falls and lights come on, Kuanzhai Alley sees locals.

Square-dancing aunties at the alley entrance claim the 'prime spot';

singers in the small bars inside strum guitars, playing folk songs.

According to records, Kuan Alley was originally called Xingren Hutong, Zhai Alley was called Taiping Hutong, and Jing Alley was called Ruyi Hutong (Mingde Hutong).

In 1948, during a city survey, legend has it that the workers, after measuring, casually marked the wider alley as 'Kuan Alley,' the narrower one as 'Zhai Alley,' and the one with a well as 'Jing Alley.'

Kuanzhai Alley is filled with small vendors selling various handicrafts.

They are not exquisite, but as souvenirs, they are not a bad choice.

If you ask how to say 'Nezha' in Sichuan dialect,

I can guarantee you'll hear many versions.

Kuanzhai Alley also preserves teahouses with old Chengdu flavor, with authentic bamboo chairs and tables.

The difference from People's Park's Heming Teahouse is probably that you can't hear the sounds of Chengdu people 'chatting' here.

Kuanzhai Alley has many local Sichuan food brands, but you might hear many Chengdu people say: 'Hey, who goes to Kuanzhai Alley to eat? That's for fooling tourists.'

Here, gaiwan tea, traditional Sichuan opera performances, characteristic Chengdu snacks, face-changing, etc., are all gathered in one place; the young ladies at the door advertise to tourists in very standard Mandarin.

Wide and narrow, narrow and wide;

Kuanzhai Alley is still beloved by both tourists and Chengdu locals.

Like the words on this wall:

'I love you, Chengdu.'

The name 'Mengzhuiwan' (Fierce Chase Bay) is said to come from the Funan River making a big bend here; others say it's because the water level drops sharply, creating surging waves that chase each other, hence the name.

But in the eyes of Chengdu people, the most familiar name here is 'Swimming Pool.'

Even though the landmark is now the 339 TV Tower, when you take the bus, the stop is still called 'Swimming Pool.'

Mengzhuiwan was once a lively industrial area; but after 2000, it gradually declined, despite being close to Chunxi Road and Taikoo Li; on one side is the new, vibrant Chengdu; looking at Mengzhuiwan's appearance is sobering.

But Chengdu people have not given up this deeply loved land. Through the efforts of Chenghua District, it has been reborn with vibrant colors and the historical sedimentation of old industry.

'Three thousand years of mortal烟火, Chengdu up and down Mengzhuiwan!'

Walking along the Funan River, the words and buildings here tell us.

The Eastern Suburb enterprises that once contributed to Chengdu's development have not been forgotten; Chengdu interprets that era in a new posture.

Wooden seats of varying heights remind me of watching outdoor movies as a child.

The common street barber shop from my childhood has been preserved.

My son posed in front of the mirror.

These words record the most glorious history of these enterprises.

Mengzhuiwan gives us a complete and clear chain of memories.

And here there are also small shops that suit modern tastes.

Order a drink and sit by the Funan River; only the drink and location have changed—the essence of Chengdu still retains its love for 'teahouses.'

Once, while visiting Penang, Malaysia, I fell in love with its street murals. I always hoped such murals would appear on Chengdu's streets.

And the 'tree paintings' in Mengzhuiwan made me keep pressing the shutter.

These 'tree paintings' not only add childlike fun and color to Chengdu's streets; the imaginative artists also beautified the original tree scars, burls, and wounds.

These 'tree paintings' are full of strong Sichuan characteristics. When I saw the words 'hot pot base,' I burst out laughing.

The Sun and Immortal Bird pattern excavated from Jinsha also appears in the 'tree paintings.'

Sichuan elements are everywhere here.

My son said that Erjingtiao (a type of chili) is really spicy.

Look closely at these paintings, and you can see a slightly 'dark' side.

A delivery guy sending 'spicy rabbit head' to a rabbit...

Movie characters gather here.

A cheetah painted ingeniously using the tree's shape.

The long-nosed Pinocchio is a secondary creation by the painters using the protruding shape of the tree trunk!

Using the tree's natural form to paint, shading is very evident; these paintings have a 3D stereoscopic feel.

Walking down this small street, we were repeatedly attracted by the paintings on the trees, repeatedly amazed by the artists' imagination.

And this mural is hidden in a small alley; the 'sugar-oiled fruit' painted on it happens to be my favorite Chengdu snack.

Three Kingdoms characters are playing mahjong.

Red Hare horse has become an 'electric horse' in Chengdu dialect.

A little cute creature looks like it's waiting for you, touching.

And a chipmunk is pushing open the window to see who's outside its home.

A cute panda.

The inspiration for this picture, I guess, comes from Sanxingdui.

This place is about a 5-minute walk from the current most prosperous commercial circle in Chengdu.

The food in Taikoo Li is a bit pricey; if you want to eat authentic food, it's better to walk a few more steps to nearby East Street for hot pot, or to Xiangxiang Alley for snacks. Chengdu people always find the 'most comfortable' street.

The rise of new Chengdu, the departure of old Chengdu.

These things are destined to become only our memories.

The new Chenghua Park has replaced the amusement park, but a part of the 'roller coaster' that once made us scream is preserved.

The once terrifying spinning track has become a great place for photography.

The former concrete ground is now surrounded by wetlands;

The reflections in the water give the track a sense of extension.

The somewhat dilapidated track surrounded by wetlands contrasts sharply with the nearby 339 TV Tower.

The collision of new and old gives Chengdu its own cultural atmosphere and heritage.

One hand holds the future and modernization, the other holds our history and memories.

In the 1980s and 1990s, the scene described in Li Bai's poem 'Washing brocade in clear river flowing ten thousand li' had disappeared, replaced by industrial wastewater and domestic waste from urbanization... The whole city smelled of decay and sourness; the Funan River was called 'Rotten River' by Chengdu people.

This park gave a new breath to the then newly treated 'Rotten River.'

The concept of artificial wetlands for water treatment was very advanced for Chengdu people at the time.

Today's Living Water Park, surrounded by wetlands and layers of pools filtering water, makes the plants here full of vitality.

The good ecology here has also attracted many small fish and shrimp.

The good environment also makes everyone choose this place for leisure and entertainment.

Not far from the internet-famous Jianshe Road is Eastern Suburb Memory.

The original factory buildings have retained their original appearance.

In this environment full of art and music, abandoned valves, after modification, can also emit an artistic atmosphere.

And the words 'Save Water' above the washbasins in various factories from those years are completely preserved.

The Dongfanghong Train retains the appearance of those years.

The preservation of the green train also provides a place for my parents' generation's youth.

Eastern Suburb not only has memory but also integrates music.

The murals here are always related to music.

Occasionally come here to listen to a small concert; Chengdu people's lives are just like this, unhurried and just right.

Music and abandoned machine tools, in Eastern Suburb Memory, preserve every Chengdu person's youth.

It's no exaggeration to say that this is the most popular park in Chengdu.

Regardless of age, it instantly takes you back to kindergarten.

Follow the signs and you'll see the pandas.

Pandas are really lazy; here, we saw many pandas lying around eating bamboo like this.

Or various ways of lying down.

Smaller pandas can even get 'stuck' in trees like this.

These pandas live a fairy-tale life; so envious~

Let me sniff, is it fresh?

Panda cubs like sleeping in trees.

Finding various comfortable positions to sleep.

Yes, sleeping on their stomachs like this.

A few-month-old panda sleeps in a bamboo basket, no matter how much visitors call, it sleeps soundly.

The peacocks in the park make slightly harsh sounds, but they don't disturb the pandas' lazy lifestyle.

Aren't these pandas very much like Chengdu people?

Another star at the Panda Base is the red panda.

Compared to the laziness of giant pandas, red pandas are much more active.

After taking this photo, I looked up and saw a red panda hanging in the tree.

I instantly felt my face hurt.

Where do Chengdu people spend their weekends?

North Lake Ecological Park is definitely one.

Regarding the origin of North Lake, officially it comes from a depression formed after Qin Prime Minister Zhang Yi built Chengdu city in 311 BC.

This is also part of the cultural and tourism Chenghua area, close to the Panda Base. In North Lake Park, panda elements are everywhere.

The slow jogging trails built in the park make jogging a pleasant thing for keepers.

North Lake has beautiful scenery and clear blue water.

This has become a paradise for animals.

Beside the lakeside wetlands, Chengdu people lay out picnic mats, enjoying a green weekend leisure time.

In 270 BC, King Zhaoxiang of Qin (his mother was Queen Dowager Xuan, the Mi Yue in the TV series 'The Legend of Mi Yue') appointed Li Bing as the governor of Shu Commandery. Li Bing's primary task as governor was to control floods. This not only benefited the people of Shu but also related to Qin's unification.

This is my aerial panorama of the Dujiangyan irrigation system.

Compared with the majestic and powerful dams in modern people's impressions, Dujiangyan will not give you a visual impact.

The turbulent Min River, after passing through the 'Fish Mouth,' is diverted. The Min River is split into two: the Inner River (for irrigating the Chengdu Plain) and the Outer River (merging into the Min River and then into the Yangtze River).

During the dry season, the Inner River holds 60% of the water, the Outer River 40%. During the flood season, it's the opposite: Inner 40%, Outer 60%.

This achieves water regulation without human intervention. Converting blockage into diversion achieves a harmonious handshake between humans and nature.

The name 'Flying Sand Weir' comes from its function: when the Min River water hits Mount Yulei, the water makes a curved motion, generating centrifugal force, causing the bottom flow containing sand to flow toward the Flying Sand Weir. The greater the flood, the stronger the sand exclusion effect of the Flying Sand Weir. The upper layer of Min River water, with low sand content and good quality, enters the Chengdu Plain through the Bottleneck Mouth. The sand removal problem that still plagues hydraulic engineering today was resolved by the ancients more than 2,000 years ago through natural forces.

'Bottleneck Mouth'—an artificial intake cut into Mount Yulei. Whenever the flood season comes, Bottleneck Mouth can limit excessive inflow, diverting excess water to the nearby Flying Sand Weir.

The Dujiangyan irrigation system built by Li Bing and his son brought benefits for thousands of years; thus they were deified and enshrined in temples.

Among the pavilions and towers of varying heights, there are countless plaques and carvings, such as 'Flowing Grace for a Thousand Years,' 'Supreme Goodness is Like Water,' 'Benefiting the People,' 'Vast Virtue and Deep Merit,' and 'Unparalleled on Land and Sea.'

The inscription 'Erwang Temple' was written by General Feng Yuxiang.

There is also an inscription by Deng Xiaoping here: 'Benefiting Ten Thousand Generations.' If you look closely, you'll find the character is missing a dot; various interpretations abound.

And on the walls here, from the Qin Dynasty to the present, over two thousand years, generations of water managers have engraved their summarized experiences on the walls.

Lidui (Separation Mound) and Bottleneck Mouth.

In the Qin Dynasty more than 2,000 years ago, Li Bing chose to respect nature.

He did not treat Dujiangyan as a man-controlled river; instead, he followed the Taoist principle of 'following nature' and Eastern philosophical thought.

Making Dujiangyan natural and timeless, lasting and new.

Dujiangyan uses the water of the Min River to quietly sculpt this land.

Nurturing the well-known 'Shu brocade,' 'Jinguan City' (Brocade Official City), and the busy dock where 'a thousand miles of Eastern Wu ships moor at the gate.'

Without Dujiangyan, none of this would have been possible; without Dujiangyan, the reputation of 'Land of Abundance' would be nonsense.

This is the heart of Shu—Dujiangyan.

During the reign of Emperor Shun of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Zhang Daoling, the founder of Taoism, practiced medicine and preached here. Seeing the quiet environment, he decided to build a thatched cottage and spread Taoism on Qingcheng Mountain. It is said that he 'ascended to immortality' at the age of 123, so Qingcheng Mountain has always been regarded as one of the birthplaces of Taoism.

Taking the cable car, the first stop is Ciyun Pavilion. Ciyun Pavilion has a double-eave gable and hip roof with a front porch.

It does not have the grandeur of traditional religious temples but exudes a Chinese-style simplicity and elegance.

Here, wisps of blue smoke rise from the devout worship of visitors.

The three characters 'Shangqing Gong' were inscribed by Chiang Kai-shek. The outermost couplet, 'Supreme virtue does nothing, practices teaching without words; great perfection seems flawed, heaven attains clarity through oneness,' is from the hand of Feng Yuxiang, originating from the Tao Te Ching.

Tao and Virtue—these two words almost run through the history of Chinese civilization.

Laojun Pavilion, the highest peak of Qingcheng Mountain. The entire building has 8 sides and 8 levels, symbolizing the eight trigrams in Taoism.

From Laojun Pavilion, looking around, you are surrounded by mountains; the scenery is excellent.

Qingcheng scenery is uniquely beautiful.

At the entrance of the ancient town stands an old stone archway inscribed with the words 'Tai'an Ancient Town.'

The ancient town is not large, mostly featuring farmhouse inns.

What's worth visiting here is the ancient Tai'an Temple.

Tai'an Temple was first built in the Tang Dynasty, flanked by several very thick ancient ginkgo, zhennan, and red bean trees.

The temple is resplendent, with faint bell sounds and the rustle of pine trees.

Strolling in front of the temple brings peace of mind.

Perhaps this tranquil environment is one of the reasons why Chengdu people love this place.

Chengdu streets at night, with lights on.

The bustling IFS.

The illuminated 339 TV Tower.

Chengdu people's nightlife is also inseparable from the earthly atmosphere.

You may have walked down many streets named 'Jianshe Road,' but the most unforgettable is definitely the one in Chenghua District.

The entire street is full of large and small food shops, offering almost every kind of snack.

Low unit price, moderate portions—you hardly worry about your stomach getting too full.

Here, there is no high or low season, no distinction between day and night.

It is the Jianshe Road food street spawned by factory culture and students from the University of Electronic Science and Technology; it can be considered Chengdu people's late-night canteen.

A five-minute walk from Taikoo Li takes you to East Street; this street is full of hot pot restaurants, with branches of most famous hot pot places in Chengdu.

If we're talking about hot pot with Chengdu characteristics, I've only found this old hot pot place so far.

Upon entering, the first thing you see is fresh vegetables; I thought they were plastic models, but when I picked one up, it turned out to be real vegetables.

A call of 'Honored guest arrives, this way please'—I haven't heard that kind of greeting for a long time. This long-lost ritual feels intimate.

Sichuan traditional culture and the craftsmanship of old artisans are gradually being forgotten. But here, these memories are displayed and preserved.

While enjoying hot pot, you can admire these intangible cultural heritage works as if visiting a museum; as a Chengdu native, I feel very proud.

The interior's combination of red and blue has that certain 'vibe.'

House-made duck intestines, large slices of fresh tripe—they make your mouth water.

Pork aorta and layered tripe are, of course, must-order items.

I checked: 'Diaolong' ≈ beef tenderloin, tender but chewy; here, it's sliced after you order.

The whole process of cutting and plating is visible.

Snowflake beef is also delicious; one bite and it's full of beef flavor.

Their luncheon meat can outdo Maling brand; it has so much meat it's 'overwhelming.'

As a crabstick lover, the crispness of Gongcai (a kind of vegetable) combined with shreds of crab meat is simply perfect.

Cook blood tofu later; the longer it simmers, the more flavorful it gets.

Handmade shrimp paste is good in both spicy and clear broths.

Longxu bamboo shoots from Mount Emei have a crunchy texture and a bamboo fragrance that makes you unable to stop eating.

I recommend braised chicken feet in the hot pot; they melt in your mouth.

Pea and bacon rice incorporates Sichuan people's favorite bacon, perfectly blending the oil of the bacon with the fragrance of peas, making you want two bowls after one.

Generally, hot pot restaurants serve brown sugar glutinous rice cakes as snacks; but in Chengdu, few do it well.

The brown sugar glutinous rice cakes here are really 'delicious'—soft, sticky, yet chewy. Paired with soybean powder and sesame powder, they are not overly sweet and have a complex aroma.

Their hot pot base is different from traditional ones, a '70-30 pot': 70% spicy broth, 30% pickled cabbage crispy pork and tofu flower pot.

Freshly ground black tofu every day, paired with leaner crispy pork and Sichuan pickled cabbage, makes this broth richer the more you cook it.

The spicy broth is made with over 30 spices; it's not too spicy, and best of all, it doesn't become bitter even after cooking for a long time.

How to drive a Sichuan person crazy?

While having hot pot, ask them, 'Is this ready? Can I eat this now?'

They'd be on the verge of a breakdown.

Here's some hot pot advice for you:

Fresh tripe: 'seven up, eight down' (dip seven times, take it out), about 20 seconds.

Layered tripe: cooks a bit longer, about 2 minutes.

[Food Guide]

Houtang Old Hotpot · Old Chengdu Hot Pot Market

Address: No. 166, East Street, Xia Dong Street

At the corner of Zhangjia Alley, this Sichuan restaurant helped me rediscover the taste of authentic Sichuan cuisine.

'Stir-fried pork belly with garlic sprouts'

Sauté a bit of Pixian broad bean paste, add a few fermented black beans, a little soy sauce—no need for many seasonings. Just stir-fry the pork belly until it curls slightly, then quickly stir-fry the garlic sprouts. This might be the most representative Sichuan dish—stir-fried pork belly with garlic sprouts.

This is a Sichuan dish that tests the chef's skill. The ingredients are simple, but the process and control of heat are challenging.

And this 'Boiling Fish' clearly shows whether the restaurant owner knows about seasonings; for the 'most picky' Chengdu people, they can immediately tell if the Sichuan peppercorns and chilies are authentic.

The fish is numbingly spicy, tender and smooth—a perfect companion for rice.

'Boiled Sliced Pork in Chili Sauce'

Recently, Li Yifeng made 'Boiled Sliced Pork in Chili Sauce' trending.

Perhaps this is a sentiment of old Chengdu people—a dish we only had during festivals as children. The meat slices are not fried in oil but boiled in water, hence the name. Lettuce leaves form the base, and the freshness of lettuce contrasts strongly with the meat's fragrance.

Faced with such food, the only thing to do is shout, 'Waiter, another bowl of rice!'

'Mapo Tofu'

This is one Sichuan dish I can never make well, but it's also the one I order most frequently.

Red oil, bean paste, and tofu perfectly cooperate in this Mapo Tofu. A well-balanced starch slurry coats the tofu tightly, and the final sprinkle of Hanyuan Sichuan pepper powder elevates the complex flavor. Just scoop a spoonful and mix it with rice; this is Sichuan people's favorite way to eat rice.

A cold chicken dish can test whether a Sichuan restaurant is authentic. This dish is also a must-have at Chengdu people's New Year's Eve dinner.

The red oil must be fragrant, the chicken not dry. Don't forget to pack the leftovers.

Chengdu people's highest praise for good food is: 'Pack this dish; I'll take it home to eat with noodles.'

Rabbits are so cute, so of course they should be braised, dry-fried, or grilled!

According to an article I read, Sichuan alone eats 300 million rabbits a year. This shows Sichuan people's love for rabbits.

The 'Chan Si Tu' (silk-wrapped rabbit) at Han Kunwei is so delicious I want to pack it home; the rabbit is not dry, retaining some moisture; the most special thing is that the skin has a cured spicy flavor, while inside it's fragrant with Sichuan pepper. Simply irresistible.

As a Sichuan restaurant suitable for entertaining friends, its characteristic snacks are not to be missed. Old Chengdu Dan Dan noodles, soft brown sugar glutinous rice cakes (non-fried), and red oil dumplings—each is worth ordering.

This dish and the silk-wrapped rabbit are both signature dishes. Salty and fragrant, with a mild spicy taste spreading on the tongue.

The duck meat is chewy and feels good when torn by hand.

This is a 'Gui Fei Duck' that you'll want to pack half of it home after eating; in summer, have a bite of duck with a sip of beer.

This life is very 'Chengdu.'

[Food Guide]

Address: No. 153, Section 2, Jiefang Road

This is a barbecue place I've been frequenting for over a decade. The three characters 'Jing De Kao' (Exquisite Grilling) represent not only a test of taste for Chengdu people but also a test of time.

Chengdu, as a food city, has a very fast restaurant iteration rate; often, places become popular and then disappear. The number of restaurants that can withstand the 'winds and waves' in Chengdu is limited.

But this barbecue place has truly achieved 'Exquisite Grilling.'

This should be the signature dish that helped Wang Daye (Uncle Wang) stand out in Chengdu's barbecue scene. Chicken necks are crispy, fragrant, and tender, leaving a lasting aftertaste.

Uncle Wang's grilled pork belly is different from others: cut into small pieces, skewered alternately with fat and lean—two lean pieces sandwiched between three fat pieces. The challenge for the griller is to use the fat's oil to bring out the flavor of the lean meat. When eating, the fat is not greasy, and the lean is not dry; it sizzles and you just keep eating skewer after skewer.

This is the grilled spare ribs I always order at Uncle Wang's. The light smoky flavor of cured spare ribs blends with the barbecue aroma, creating an addictive combination. One bite, and the flavor of the cured ribs and the barbecue seasoning both merge and separate.

In my view, the beauty of Chengdu barbecue is that it preserves the original flavor of the ingredients.

Uncle Wang's grilled chicken wings are quite special. Grilling whole two-section wings is a 'torture' for the griller: the tip is very thin, the middle part is thick—how to grill them thoroughly without burning them is extremely difficult.

The finished chicken wings have a golden, crispy skin. When you gently tear the skin with your teeth, it cracks lightly, sticking to your lips. Licking your lips, the barbecue flavor slowly spreads in your mouth.

Yes, Chengdu people not only love meat skewers but also corn skewers.

Grilled potatoes and sweet potato noodles are also outstanding; recommended for vegetarians.

This dish is available in almost every barbecue shop in Chengdu, but few do it well: stuffed tofu.

Making stuffed tofu is a laborious task, starting with the heavy work of making the tofu. The prepared tofu is carefully cut into pieces, grilled over charcoal until about 70% done, then topped with various seasonings, houttuynia cordata (fish mint), minced meat, small chili peppers, etc. Then it's placed on an iron plate and grilled again over charcoal—only then is the stuffed tofu complete.

Pick up a piece of stuffed tofu with chopsticks, blow hard to cool it down, then put it in your mouth. The delicate texture and spicy flavor are incredibly satisfying.

Uncle Wang's barbecue not only has traditional meats but also small yellow fish now.

The clams, at 9.9 yuan per serving, offer great value.

This dish is more like a dessert after barbecue: stretchy cheese that melts in your mouth, erasing the spiciness of the barbecue.

[Food Guide]

This restaurant claims to be 'Chengdu's spiciest' skewer shop.

But don't be scared off; it's not that exaggerated. For Chengdu people, it's just a bit spicier than ordinary skewer shops, but definitely not to the point of losing the flavor.

Small portions, but definitely fiery. This spiciness comes from a combination of spices.

As an old Chengdu native, I've never seen a boss so generous with seasonings.

When the small dishes arrive, they're topped with plenty of chili, crushed peanuts, etc.; be sure to 'push aside' the seasonings with chopsticks before eating.

Pick up a piece of luncheon meat with various mixed spices, and the spicy flavor hits your brain directly.

Their rabbit kidneys and 'Koukou Cui' (crispy tripe) are also very tasty.

This dish of 'zhe'ergen' (houttuynia cordata) can be considered their 'ace' dish. Strictly speaking, I don't like eating zhe'ergen, especially the leaves. But here, they use the roots, which are fried, reducing the strong smell and making it 'tame.' A light fragrance is awakened; paired with the seasonings, it's very enjoyable.

In the shop, you can see many Chengdu people ordering this dish, eating one root at a time and drinking a sip of beer—very comfortable.

As an old Chengdu native, when judging a skewer shop's quality, I first look at the vegetable area, especially leafy greens. If they're not fresh, it's immediately obvious.

Iron-skewered beef is a must-order; the beef slices are large and tender. Remember to separate them before putting them into the pot.

[Food Guide]

Address: No. 127, Yixin Bridge Street

In Chengdu, one way to tell if a noodle shop is doing well is to see how many taxi drivers eat there.

Taxi drivers, who traverse the streets, are probably the most knowledgeable noodle eaters in Chengdu.

This magical noodle shop is not only favored by taxi drivers but also attracts many people driving luxury cars.

This shop is a typical Chengdu husband-and-wife shop. The wife controls the taste, and the husband takes orders and collects payment.

The husband's job is more like an old Chengdu 'waiter'; even though there is a price list on the wall, customers prefer to ask for his opinion.

This personalized service includes details like 'do you want your noodles soft or firm,' 'more greens, less noodles,' 'an extra serving of topping,' etc.

The husband adds the 'soul green lettuce leaves' to each bowl.

Then, according to each customer's order, he adds the stir-fried toppings.

This shop is famous for its 'luxury noodles' (meaning a mix of many toppings).

Besides traditional noodles, the shop also offers home-style red-oil cold chicken and well-seasoned crucian carp with a balanced sweet-sour flavor.

I heard that the couple previously ran a private kitchen at the famous 'Lang Yu' in Chengdu, and later, for some reason, they started this home-style noodle shop.

No matter how many words I use to describe the deliciousness of the noodles, it probably can't compare to the direct image of customers slurping up big mouthfuls.

[Food Guide]

Address: No. 127, Dongjiaochang Street, Apt. 22

To survive on the highly competitive Jianshe Road, with its numerous shops and food outlets, you definitely need some unique skill.

Their shrimp paste is made by removing the shells from shrimp and then beating them thousands of times to make the meat sticky. The addition of whole shrimp gives the paste a crunchy texture and rich shrimp flavor.

Then topped with the boss's secret sauce.

I personally recommend the 'Spicy Garlic Small Chili Shrimp Paste'; the combination of garlic and small chili is great. If you can't handle spicy, remember to choose a suitable spiciness level. Whether you bite into the shrimp paste or cut it in half, you can see the shrimp. No floury taste; full of shrimp meat—so satisfying! They have many flavors, like Tom Yum and Chongqing old hot pot, which I also like.

When the Q-bomb shrimp paste becomes crispy on the outside and tender inside, eating them one by one becomes addictive.

King crab sticks are a snack I'd pack to take home. Their crab sticks paired with shredded pork floss, seaweed, and crispy cucumber—perfect combination.

[Food Guide]

Xiao Aqin Freshly Made Shrimp Paste Cheese Durian Cake

Address: No. 15-12-2, Middle Jianshe Road

Currently, Chengdu has only one airport: Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport. It's quite close to the city; taking the airport expressway to Tianfu Square (city center) takes about 45 minutes without traffic.

The airport has high-speed rail and Metro Line 10 direct service.

Airport Bus Line ①

Terminal: Minshan Hotel, Section 2, Renmin South Road

Fare: 10 yuan

Operating hours: 6:30-5:30 the next day

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 02, 1st Floor, T1; Station 2, Exit 1, T2

Airport Bus Night Line ①

Terminal: Minshan Hotel, Section 2, Renmin South Road

Fare: 10 yuan

Operating hours: 20:00-5:30 the next day

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 02, 1st Floor, T1; Station 2, Exit 1, T2

Airport Bus Line ②

Terminal: North Railway Station Bus Stop

Fare: 10-17 yuan

Operating hours: 6:30-20:30

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 02, 1st Floor, T1; Station 2, Exit 1, T2

Airport Bus Night Line ②

Terminal: Guixi Bus Stop

Fare: 10-13 yuan

Operating hours: 20:30-5:30 the next day

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 02, 1st Floor, T1; Station 2, Exit 1, T2

Airport Bus Line ③

Terminal: East Railway Station

Fare: 12 yuan

Operating hours: 6:30-1:00 the next day

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 01, 1st Floor, T1; Station 4, Exit 1, T2

Airport Bus Night Line ③

Terminal: Wuhouci Street Stop

Fare: 10-15 yuan

Operating hours: 21:00-3:00 the next day

Pick-up points: Outside Gate 02, 1st Floor, T1; Station 2, Exit 1, T2

Currently, Chengdu has 4 railway stations:

Chengdu Station (North Railway Station)

Chengdu East Station (mainly high-speed rail)

Currently, Chengdu Metro has the following lines:

Line 1, Line 2, Line 3, Line 4, Line 5, Line 7, Line 10, Rong Line 2

For details, please check the official Chengdu Metro website.

Travelogue Contents:

1. Hello, Chengdu

2. About the Author

3. About This Travelogue

4. Honglou Cutting Tools Factory—Where Grandparents Built Chengdu

5. People's Park—A Microcosm of Chengdu's Leisurely Life

6. Without Teahouses, How Would Chengdu People Live?

7. Kuanzhai Alley—A Reserved Piece of Old Chengdu Memories

8. Mengzhuiwan—New Internet-Famous Spot Next to Taikoo Li

9. Chengdu's 'Penang' Murals

10. Chenghua Park—Childhood Joys of Chengdu's Post-70s and Post-80s

11. Living Water Park—Chengdu's 'Green Lung'

12. Eastern Suburb Has Memories—Old Chengdu Times

13. Panda Base—Chengdu's Most Prized Zoo

14. North Lake Wetland Park—A Great Picnic Spot for Chengdu People

15. Dujiangyan—The Heart of Shu

16. Qingcheng Mountain—The Birthplace of Chinese Taoism

17. Tai'an Ancient Town—Chengdu's Back Garden

18. The Nightlife of Chengdu

19. Jianshe Road—A Place of Mortal烟火 in Chengdu

20. Eat in Sichuan, Taste in Chengdu

21. When Intangible Heritage Meets Hot Pot—Chengdu Hot Pot Near Taikoo Li

22. Authentic Traditional Sichuan Cuisine Here

23. Wang Daye's Barbecue—You'll Always Be Wang Daye

24. Skewers That Make Your Heart Race—Lula Skewers

25. Taxi Drivers' Private Treasure—Huang Ji Home-Style Noodles

26. Must-Eat Snack on Jianshe Road—Shrimp Paste

27. Transportation in Chengdu

28. Photography Equipment

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