Traveling in Shu: From the Tasty Chengdu to the Charming Western Sichuan
Prologue: From the nine heavens emerges Chengdu, with thousands of households entering the picture. In the eyes of the great Tang poet Li Bai, Chengdu is naturally formed, beautiful and prosperous. The Land of Abundance thrives endlessly, and Chengdu is renowned for its reputation as the Land of Abundance and the City of Leisure. When it comes to Chengdu, the first impression in mind is food. Sichuan cuisine is famous worldwide for its spiciness, but it goes beyond just spicy flavors. In Chengdu, time passes slowly. Elegance and fashion are the distinctive cultural traits of Chengdu, while optimism and inclusiveness are its cultural tolerance. The leisurely lifestyle—brewing a cup of tea and holding a good book—has permeated the lives of Chengdu residents throughout history, also nurturing Chengdu's rich artistic atmosphere. Chengdu is a captivating city of leisure and art.
[Itinerary Preview]
DAY 1: Chengdu – Kuanzhai Alley – Dongjiao Memory
DAY 2: Chengdu – Giant Panda Breeding Research Base
DAY 3: Chengdu – Aba County Town
DAY 4: Aba County Town – Lianbao Yeze – Aba County Town
DAY 5: Aba County Town – Gemo Monastery – Manzetang Wetland – Shenzuo Village – Tongyang Ding – Aba County Town
DAY 6: Aba County Town – Chengdu
(1) If it is your first time in Chengdu, it is best to start with mild spiciness and gradually adapt; otherwise, an upset stomach will mar the experience. Bringing some stomach medicine is essential. It is recommended to order a bowl of refreshing tofu pudding or a bottle of Weiyi (a local soy milk drink) with Sichuan cuisine or hotpot, as they are especially effective in alleviating the impact of spiciness. (2) Almost every famous restaurant in Chengdu has large crowds queuing every day. It is advisable to manage your sightseeing time well and not waste travel time on waiting in line. Eat early to enjoy early. (3) Chengdu has many small attractions, and buses are a common means of transportation. Prepare plenty of small change in advance or get a local bus card. (4) Download a map app; it is very useful for finding attractions, food, hotels, and stops. You will use it frequently when visiting unfamiliar cities. (5) There are special sightseeing buses that shuttle between major attractions in the city. For example, a taxi from the Panda Base to the city center costs over 30 yuan, while taking a direct bus to other attractions in the city costs only 2 yuan.
1. To cope with altitude sickness, take anti-altitude sickness medication like Rhodiola rosea a week in advance. 2. The weather in Tibetan areas is changeable. Be sure to keep warm to prevent colds or fevers from worsening at high altitudes. 3. While taking beautiful photos, pay attention to safety, especially on the mountains. 4. Photography is prohibited inside the main hall of Gemo Monastery, but you can take pictures freely outside, including aerial shots. 5. On the way to Manzetang Wetland, the latter part of the road is rough and takes a long time to traverse. Bring food and a tent in advance.
Chengdu is a city that loves and knows how to eat. Whether in fashionable streets or ancient alleys, specialty restaurants and humble eateries offering Sichuan cuisine, hotpot, chuanchuan (skewers), barbecue, and various cooking styles and flavors are everywhere. If you come to Chengdu without preparation, you may feel lost. One person with one mouth—a true foodie must be meticulous: where to eat, what to eat, and how to eat are an art.
Chengdu's Niuhua Bapo Malatang is located on the first floor of Dongfang Times Mall, No. 43 Tianxianqiao South Road, near Dongmen Bridge Station on Metro Line 2. This is an authentic old Chengdu flavor—you can smell the malatang fragrance from the street. On weekends, gathering with friends to enjoy skewers and beer is probably the most stress-relieving and relaxing pastime for people after a busy week.
Inside, the decor is classical Chinese style, with walls painted with various old Chengdu scenes. Under warm lighting, wooden tables and stools create a nostalgic atmosphere.
The display shelves are filled with countless skewers of meat, vegetables, tofu products, and eggs. Help yourself to whatever you like, and pay by counting the skewers at the end. The hotpot base comes in various flavors, priced separately.
Oil dips and dry dips—those who love spicy can handle them. When the pot base is brought to the table, the room fills with a rich, spicy aroma. Eagerly, we put the ingredients into the pot. The skewers, wrapped in translucent oil, look delicious, and we can't help but salivate.
Environment: ★★★★☆
Service: ★★★★☆
Taste: ★★★★☆
Recommendation: ★★★★★
Average cost per person: 70 yuan
Hotpot is everywhere in the streets and alleys of Chengdu. Many people fall in love with Chengdu's flavor because of hotpot. A good hotpot restaurant always attracts numerous diners. Zhou Xiaoyu Lengguo Yu (cold pot fish) is one such place, located at No. 136-139 Qunxing Road, Chengdu (opposite Qunxing Garden). It is said that many people come specifically for Zhou Xiaoyu's招牌.
It is raining in Chengdu today, but there are still many diners. The dining environment is nice, and the staff are warm. Cold pot fish and bullfrog are the restaurant's specialties.
Vegetables and fruits are free and unlimited, provided that each person orders at least one jin (0.5 kg) of the main pot. If the per capita amount is less than one jin, vegetables and fruits are charged separately. In fact, everyone can easily eat one jin, so the price is quite affordable, making it suitable for a gathering of three to five friends.
Environment: ★★★★☆
Service: ★★★★☆
Taste: ★★★★☆
Recommendation: ★★★★★
Average cost per person: 60 yuan
Chengdu is the birthplace of ancient Shu civilization, one of China's ten ancient capitals, and a city with profound cultural heritage. Scattered throughout Chengdu are numerous historical sites and cultural landscapes, both old and new, from the Kuanzhai Alley dating back to the Qing Dynasty to the modern Dongjiao Memory. Oh, and of course, our national treasure, the giant panda. These cultural roots, handed down through the ages, are the soul of a city. To truly understand a city and fall in love with it, you must first learn about its history and culture.
Kuanzhai Alley is located near Changshun Street in Qingyang District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province. It consists of three parallel alleys: Kuan Alley, Zhai Alley, and Jing Alley, all composed of gray brick and black tile courtyards that resemble traditional Siheyuan. This is one of the better-preserved Qing Dynasty streets in Chengdu and, together with Daci Temple and Wenshu Monastery, is one of the three major historical and cultural preservation areas of Chengdu.
In the 57th year of the Kangxi reign, after suppressing the Dzungar rebellion, over a thousand soldiers were selected to garrison Chengdu. On the basis of the former Shaocheng (Lesser City), they built Mancheng (Manchu City). During the Qing Dynasty, only the Eight Banners of Manchus and Mongols lived in Mancheng. After the fall of the Qing, Mancheng was no longer a restricted area, and commoners could freely enter. Some outside merchants took the opportunity to open pawnshops near Mancheng, buying up the properties of the banner families. This created a unique pattern where descendants of the banner families, high officials, and common people all lived together in Mancheng. At that time, Kuan Alley was called Xingren Hutong, Zhai Alley was called Taiping Hutong, and Jing Alley was called Ruyi Hutong.
After the Xinhai Revolution, the Qing governor Zhao Erfeng surrendered his authority, and the walls of Shaocheng were demolished. Some high officials and nobles came here to build mansions and residences. Yu Youren, Tian Songyao, Li Jiayu, Yang Sen, Liu Wenhui, and others settled here one after another. Chiang Kai-shek also visited, which helped preserve these ancient buildings. In the early years of the Republic of China, the city administrators issued a decree changing 'hutong' to 'alley'. Kuan Alley is a leisure living area, a recreation of old Chengdu life. Kuan Alley houses the Old Chengdu Life Experience Museum, where local customs and folk traditions of old Chengdu are displayed.
In Chengdu, there is a profession called caier (ear cleaning), which is ear picking. You can see them in many famous streets and alleys, and Kuanzhai Alley is no exception. There is a saying among the people: the three greatest pleasures are ear cleaning, foot massage, and bathing. Ear cleaning uses various tools to stimulate inside and outside the ear canal, providing enjoyment and relaxation after a mix of tickling and tension. Besides cleaning the ear canal, it also helps relieve stress and provide pleasure.
Zhai Alley predominantly features architecture from the late Qing and early Republic periods, including some Western-style buildings left by churches. Zhai Alley is a slow-living area, showcasing old Chengdu's courtyard culture. These courtyards are mostly occupied by stylish bars and restaurants. Tourists and art lovers gather in the alley, spending a leisurely afternoon feeling time stand still.
Jing Alley is less crowded, adjacent to the south of Zhai Alley. The shops here are not as thriving as those in Kuan and Zhai Alleys. The biggest highlight is the exterior wall on the south side, which features a 500-meter-long brick culture wall and a 500-meter-long folk photo wall.
Giant Panda Breeding Research Base
The Chengdu Giant Panda Breeding Research Base is located at Futou Mountain in the northern suburbs of Chengdu, about 10 kilometers from the city center. A wide Panda Avenue connects it to the city, and it takes about 40 minutes by car. It has become one of the main bases for ex-situ conservation of rare and endangered wild animals such as giant pandas. It houses giant pandas, red pandas, black-necked cranes, white storks, swans, geese, mandarin ducks, and peacocks year-round. Of course, coming to Chengdu is mainly to see our national treasure, the giant panda.
To see the giant pandas at the base, go early. Around noon, they are fed, and after lunch they doze off. By afternoon, they are almost listless. Morning is the best time to visit. The base is large and divided into many areas, with many winding paths that can be confusing. However, many tour groups, both domestic and international, visit the panda base. Following them is a good idea, and you can also listen to the guide's explanations for free.
I arrived at the panda base around 10 a.m., and some red pandas were already dozing, lying motionless on the ground.
Red pandas are generally shy. When watched by so many people, they hide in tree holes but occasionally poke their heads out to satisfy curiosity—totally adorable.
In contrast, giant pandas are used to big crowds. 'I eat my bamboo, you take your photos—front, side, whatever you like.' They act like a celebrity.
But honestly, giant pandas' forelimbs are really dexterous. The way they grab bamboo shoots is especially skillful—eat one, grab another. With their round bodies, they are also true foodies. Don't let their cute, dazed appearance fool you; they never gulp down food. They pick up a bamboo shoot, peel off the outer layers with their teeth, and only eat the tender inside. A discerning foodie, aren't they?
Giant pandas belong to the order Carnivora, family Ursidae, subfamily Ailuropodinae, and are the only species in the genus Ailuropoda. Yes, Carnivora. In fact, 90% of people don't know that giant pandas originally ate meat. Through evolution, 99% of their diet is now bamboo, but their teeth and digestive tract remain unchanged, so they are still classified as Carnivora.
Young giant pandas, like children, love to play and chase each other. They have round faces, big dark circles under their eyes, chubby bodies, a characteristic pigeon-toed walk, and claws as sharp as scalpels.
Giant pandas have lived on Earth for at least 8 million years and are known as 'living fossils' and 'China's national treasure.' When traveling to Chengdu, you must come here to see these most adorable animals up close.
Dongjiao Memory
Located at No. 4 Jianshe South Branch Road, outside the Second Ring Road East, Chenghua District, Chengdu, Dongjiao Memory was formerly the Chengdu East Music Park. It brings together music, art, drama, photography, and many other cultural forms, making it a diverse cultural park.
'Repair the old as old, use the old for new' is the main feature of Dongjiao Memory's architecture. It combines the industrial aesthetics of the planned economy era with the functions of modern commercial buildings, incorporating Soviet-era office buildings from the 1950s, early 21st-century office buildings, multi-story factories, and industrial-style smokestacks and pipes, creating an artistic atmosphere that is both nostalgic and fashionable.
The area retains the original eucalyptus and sycamore trees of the former Chengdu Hongguang Electron Tube Factory, and uses old machine tools, semi-finished glass bulb products, discarded tanks, and pipes to create artistic installations, fostering an atmosphere of nostalgia and fashion. Visitors can fully experience the charm of industrial heritage, witness the changes of urban development, and recall memories of past times.
Aba County, at the junction of Gansu, Qinghai, and Sichuan provinces, has a unique geographical location that nurtures distinctive ethnic culture and beautiful scenery. According to the 'Nianbo Yeze Shenshan Zhi' (Chronicle of the Sacred Mountain Nianbo Yeze), the sacred mountain 'Lianbao Yeze' in the south of the sacred land Ando in the east is one of the ten sacred mountains of Tibet. When the sacred mountain rises to the eleventh position, it enters heaven. The sacred 'Lianbao Yeze' is fortunate to have risen to the eighth position under the mercy and protection of the Buddha, ranking first among the sacred mountains in the Ando region. This trip's destination is Lianbao Yeze in Aba County, Western Sichuan. It takes ten hours to reach Aba County town from Chengdu. Though the journey is arduous, the call of Western Sichuan's beauty fills me with anticipation.
Lianbao Yeze / Stone Mountain
The 'Lianbao Yeze' sacred mountain is located southwest of Aba County town, about 60 minutes by car. According to the 'Lianbao Yeze Shenshan Zhi', the Lianbao Yeze area was an ancient battlefield where King Gesar fought, and many stories of King Gesar are still told today. Lianbao Yeze is a world of fantastic and unpredictable peaks and rocks, a masterpiece of nature that sparks infinite imagination.
'Lake' is the local term in Tibet and Qinghai for inland lakes. In the Lianbao Yeze scenic area, lakes are scattered everywhere. The first scenic lake is called Dangzan Ge Cuo, meaning 'clear to the bottom lake.' When the light is just right, the surrounding peaks are clearly reflected in the lake, blending mountain and water into a beautiful whole.
In front of Dangzan Ge Cuo is Qudeng Cuo, also called White Pagoda Lake. The white pagoda by the lake stands majestic, mirrored in the water, creating a poetic lakescape that is perfect for photography and lingers in memory.
Lianbao Yeze means 'dignified jade peak' in Tibetan. The mountains are majestic and steep, with all kinds of strange rocks. For example, this huge rock lies like a tiger on a grassy slope. How did it get there? This rock is called 'Flying Rock.' Legend says it was kicked down from the rock mountain by King Gesar, which is quite interesting.
There is also a combination of tree and rock—trees growing out of rocks and thriving, which is truly a marvel.
Further ahead, there are more vivid natural rock formations: General Rock, Pig Enlightenment, Camel Peak, Eagle Striking the Sky, A Kiss for a Thousand Years, etc. Each is lifelike, changing with every step, all masterpieces of nature's craftsmanship.
The furthest and most stunning is 'Zhaga'er Cuo.' 'Zhaga'er' means white rock, and 'white' symbolizes purity and auspiciousness in Tibetan culture. 'Cuo' means lake. 'Zhaga'er Cuo' is the Lake of Purity. It covers about 3 square kilometers and is a typical glacial erosion lake formed by ice-eroded basins collecting water. In summer, Zhaga'er Cuo is crystal clear, with mountain reflections in the lake, blending hardness and softness in a dreamlike scene. In winter, the lake freezes, like a giant mirror reflecting the sun, moon, and mountains, poetic and picturesque.
Zhaga'er Cuo is a sacred lake in the hearts of Tibetans. Legend says that when Guanyin Bodhisattva was enlightening sentient beings, she dropped a drop of sacred water. This drop absorbed the essence of heaven and earth and the spirit of the snowy mountains, gradually gathering into a lake that cleanses the soul. It continuously sends pure dew to the downstream mountains, villages, and living beings, nourishing all things and purifying ordinary souls.
It is said that if a person with a sincere heart circles the sacred lake once, their heart will be purified and they will gain happiness and blessings—it is very efficacious. Those with special affinity may, in clear weather or amidst mist, see the figures of deities and their own souls on the mountains or in the water.
Pure Land Buddhist Heaven / Gemo Monastery
Early the next morning, we set off for Gemo Monastery. Gemo Monastery is one of the three major Gelug monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism and a branch of the Labrang Monastery, one of the six great Gelug monasteries. It is also known as Huiyuan Monastery.
Entering the monastery, the distinctive Gelug-style Tibetan architecture is solemn and majestic. The courtyard has five halls, with the tallest in the center. Entering the main hall, photography is not allowed inside. There are designated tour routes, and loud noise is prohibited. Inside, there are many incense stands and candle holders, with thangkas and ritual objects hanging on the walls—a peace and tranquility beyond words.
Although photography is not allowed inside the hall, it is allowed outside. The buildings, with their prominent vermilion color, are particularly photogenic against the light.
Wetland Grassland / Manzetang
Leaving Gemo Monastery, we head to Manzetang Wetland. Along the way, the scenery is endlessly beautiful Tibetan landscape: lush green fields, herds of cattle and sheep, and a clear blue sky, as if walking in a painting. The driver plays cheerful music while driving. The latter part of the road is not very smooth, but even so, my happy mood is undampened. The car gallops like a runaway horse towards the endless depths of the grassland.
Manzetang Wetland includes the grasslands of Maierma, Jialuo Township, and Jiake Ranch, with an average altitude of about 3,400 meters. The scenic area has vast, boundless grasslands with lush green grass and flower carpets, making it a fine pasture in the northwestern Sichuan Tibetan area. It is also a high-altitude wetland that is a source of the Yellow River system. Winding rivers meander across the wetland grassland like a flying ribbon, reflecting the blue sky and white clouds. As far as the eye can see, the beauty is overwhelming.
Spread a mat, set up a tent, and enjoy lunch in such a beautiful setting—a unique experience. Good food, beautiful scenery, free air, and joyful mood—this is the most surprising and comfortable travel experience.
The sky is vast and the grass is boundless; when the wind blows, the grass bends to reveal cattle and sheep. The beautiful Manzetang wetland grassland, with the blue sky and white clouds as a blanket and the earth as a bed, countless yaks and wild animals freely inhabit this magnificent landscape. It is also a place where Tibetans live and call home, a paradise.
Shangri-La / Shenzuo Village
From Manzetang Wetland to the next destination, Shenzuo Village, it takes two hours. We left at 3 p.m. and took a nice nap on the bus. Shenzuo Village is an original ecological natural scenic area, combining forestry, animal husbandry, and agriculture. It is peaceful and tranquil, particularly suitable for living, and is a pristine 'Shangri-La.' When I first heard the name Shenzuo Village, it sounded very ethereal, as if it were a later name. But in fact, it has been called Shenzuo since ancient times, just as the village has preserved its simple and kind nature from ancient times to today. The village has only 73 households, backed by high mountain pastures, and facing a continuous primeval forest across the river.
At a high point in the village, there is a viewing platform reputed to be one of the most beautiful in Sichuan. You can overlook the entire village and its surroundings. Climbing the plank path built by the village is tiring due to the altitude, but the view does not disappoint. The mountain where the viewing platform is located is the Goddess Mountain. There is a beautiful legend about this sacred mountain. Shenzuo is famous for the goddess Gaba Niamu and the Shenzuo maidens. The beauty of the Shenzuo maidens is legendary in the Ando Tibetan area. Shenzuo was brought by a beautiful mountain goddess. Opposite the Goddess Mountain is the God Mountain, with the two sacred mountains facing each other across the river, jointly guarding Shenzuo Village.
Shenzuo Village is a sea of flowers. Whether in the village or on the hillsides, various alpine flowers bloom in competition, creating a natural garden that makes visitors linger.
Beautiful Scenery / Tongyang Ding
We arrived at Tongyang Ding at 5 p.m. This is a high hillside, and the name likely originates from its proximity to the sun—a mountaintop close to the sun. From the parking lot to the viewing platform, there is a wooden plank path. At the end of the path, there is a restaurant on one side and two connected viewing platforms on the other. The platforms offer an expansive view, with chairs for resting. Surrounding is an endless green field, with smoke rising from the homes of local herders.
Behind the restaurant lies an even greater surprise. At the end of the plank path, there is breathtaking scenery: under the blue sky and white clouds, overlooking the solemn Langyi Temple lying on a green hill. Clouds cast shadows over the colorful rooftops, now bright, now dark, shimmering with golden light.
The restaurant at Tongyang Ding offers a variety of cuisines: Western, Chinese, Tibetan, etc. In Aba, of course, you must taste local Tibetan dishes: yak meat, milk tea, Tibetan hotpot, spicy chicken, homemade yogurt, beef shaomai... Authentic Tibetan flavors and traditional Tibetan eating methods—this is the most memorable taste of a trip to Western Sichuan.
A full six days round trip left me satisfied. Great Sichuan has such charm. The ancient capital Chengdu, with its different scenery and different life, until we meet again~
