A Feast of Gluttony, Chengdu's World of Delights
Fingertips: The only things I love in life are beautiful views and good food.
Some say that when we think of Chengdu, we don't think of the city name but of one food after another. Because Chengdu is a city filled with food. In every alley and every street of this city, you can encounter a lot of delicious food and many interesting snacks at any time.
And the enthusiasm of Chengdu people for eating has also caused the high development of Chengdu's catering industry. Almost every foreign tourist who arrives in Chengdu is full of interest in Chengdu's hot pot, Sichuan cuisine, snacks, and malatang. If you go to Chengdu and don't eat the food, you always feel like you've entered a treasure mountain and come back empty-handed.
A city has its own history and culture, and also has its own characteristic neighborhoods. To understand the history and culture of a city, you should walk into its characteristic neighborhoods, understand the cultural origins and celebrity stories it carries, touch its historical warmth up close, and feel the bustling commercial atmosphere and the flavor of pleasure that have continued through the changes of the times.
With rare leisure time and family accompanying us, we decided to have some fun around Jinli, walking and enjoying, savoring slowly. If Kuanzhai Alley is classical and artistic, like a crescent moon in a mirror of time, then Jinli is bustling and worldly, like a few fireworks blooming outside the mirror of time.
Walking into Jinli, the tempting aroma of delicious food hits you. Shops are open, mainly selling food and drinks. Fresh fruits and delicacies, carefully arranged, appear and disappear in the light mist. Looking at their beautiful shapes, discerning their fresh colors, and smelling their fragrant scents, one's mouth waters uncontrollably.
Next to the shops, there are costumed Sichuan opera young performers greeting guests. They mimic the movements of opera, suddenly shrinking their necks and sticking out their heads, turning a white face into a red face, startling you. Before you can be surprised or annoyed, they pull you and make a funny face to make you burst into laughter. With this tease and joy, your mood instantly improves.
When we first arrived, the sky was clear. Strolling through Jinli with fewer tourists, it had a hazy, classical charm. The streets of Jinli are not wide, but ancient buildings on both sides face each other. Strings of red lanterns hang high and low, either under the upturned eaves or on tree branches, twinkling in the hazy rain, with unique charm.
Walking in the ancient street feels like strolling through a poetic意境 with harmonious rhythm. Carved and latticed windows, ancient walls covered with creeping vines, winding corridors leading to secluded spots—like the backdrop of a poem, with a contrast between vicissitudes and vitality in shades of elegance.
Jinli is an ancient street suitable for nostalgia, and also a place that appeals to both refined and popular tastes. Here, you can find memories of Chengdu from the Three Kingdoms period, and also enjoy a leisurely life in the fast-paced city.
After walking around Jinli, we got hungry. It seems the temptation of food is quite strong. I decided to take my family to the Gua Chuan Chuan (Melon Skewers) restaurant on Jinfangyuan East Road. I heard it was good. When we arrived, we found that the environment of this Gua Chuan Chuan was really nice.
The overall decoration is blue bricks and green tiles, with red-dominated walls full of festive atmosphere. The space is spacious with clear functional partitions. The Chinese retro style adds unique charm to this restaurant, truly antique.
Although we thought it was still early, once inside we realized it was a different world. There were so many people! The entire hall was full, with voices everywhere, but it didn't affect the enthusiasm of the eaters lining up outside. Indeed, good food is king—this is the nature of Chengdu foodies.
Broth base: Authentic Chengdu style soup base, cold pot skewers with perfect spiciness, freshly boiled every day with super rich broth, red oil covering a secret high-soup base. Full of dry ingredients simmered from morning until noon opening. Fragrant but not numbing, spicy but not irritating. This flavor cannot be imitated; only recipes passed down from the older generation can be called old Chengdu flavor.
70+ types of skewers to choose from: Six large freezers make your head spin. Five-star cold chain ensures fresh ingredients selected daily, carefully marinated and skewered. Meat and vegetables—pay by weight for the skewers. Take whatever you want, and start the crazy skewer-eating mode!
Handmade special double dipping sauce: How fragrant is the dry dip? The combination of crushed peanuts and chili powder easily wins. A light roll gives a peanut fragrance. The laborious handmade process makes it unique. The oil dip, with sesame oil, minced garlic, and chopped green onions, is also a great helper to relieve spiciness and add fragrance.
Beef skewers are versatile: Give me a piece of beef, and I can wrap a world. Five-spice, mala, coriander, pickled pepper, scallion—the beef is marinated in secret sauce for two to three hours. Plump pickled peppers with tender beef, a hint of green in the red beef stands out. The heavy taste explodes on the tongue. With the thick beef cubes wrapped around pickled peppers ready to burst, your mouth says no but your body is honest, sending skewer after skewer to your mouth.
Small sausages: Small sausages are a Chengdu specialty. Round and plump, with a good balance of fat and lean, cut into bite-sized pieces. A slightly sweet taste very Cantonese-style. The dual sweetness and spiciness is addictive, relieving spiciness while doubling satisfaction! You won't regret coming to this restaurant. It's so delicious you can't stop.
Two | 壹·Bar "Boss", Find Your Own Intoxication
Hearing the name "Wuhou," anyone who has read the Three Kingdoms must be familiar with it. Yes, it's the alias of the great Zhuge Liang, "Zhuge Wuhou." If your favorite faction in "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" is Shu, then the famous Chengdu attraction—Wuhou Shrine—is a must-visit. It will satisfy all your desires.
Afternoon came, and my family and I planned to visit Wuhou Shrine, to experience the legendary stories of the Three Kingdoms and fulfill our dream of the Three Kingdoms.
Legend has it that Wuhou Shrine was built in 223 AD. Initially built as a mausoleum for Liu Bei, later generations combined Liu Bei's mausoleum with Zhuge Liang's temple, forming the current joint temple of monarch and minister—the only one of its kind in China.
The heroes of the ever-changing Shu kingdom turned to dust here, and their great achievements were buried and rested here. All the historical stories are deposited and brewed here, giving rise to the weighty Wuhou Shrine, a place to honor the heroes of Shu Han.
From Sanyi Temple to Wuhou Shrine, from the Peach Garden Oath to Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage, we arrived at the main hall of Zhuge Liang's temple. A horizontal plaque in the center reads "Ming Chui Yu Zhou" (Fame Spreads Across the Universe), which is the highest praise for Master Zhuge. The upper couplet reads: "If you can win hearts, opposition will naturally disappear; from ancient times, those who know warfare are not warlike." The lower couplet: "If you don't assess the situation, both leniency and severity are wrong; later governors of Shu must think deeply."
These two lines highly summarize Zhuge Liang's loyalty and ambition to serve Shu with all his might until his death. He used his entire life to repay the kindness of the three visits and the meeting of minds. Wuhou Shrine is not large—located in the bustling city, it doesn't cover much area; you can walk through it in about an hour. Yet Wuhou Shrine is also huge, because it carries not just a scenic spot but the history of a dynasty, a tribute and remembrance of that era.
We walked and stopped, turning into quiet spots, admiring bonsai, observing flowers and plants, smelling faint fragrances. Looking at ancient trees with intertwined roots, admiring exquisite arched bridges and water reflections, sighing at the ruined Han palace pillars. With respect for the memory of Shu, we slowly walked out.
In Chengdu, a city known for its leisurely lifestyle, there are many bars of all sizes. But a bar like Bieyuan Li, surrounded by greenery, lit by neon lights, and filled with various alcohols and snacks, is unique in Chengdu. To give customers a better experience, they specially invited a lighting design company to design the lighting effects.
We couldn't waste the evening; we wanted to have fun. I planned to take my family to Bieyuan Li to enjoy the cozy night.
Upon entering, with the lights on, the entire bar became a colorful neon world. Under the interplay of light and shadow, colorful lights were like stars in the sky, shining brilliantly in the bar. The atmosphere of entertainment and relaxation was instantly elevated.
The drinks in the bar are as rich as their lighting. Foreign liquor, Chinese-style cocktails, cocktails, and pure imported beer—all available! Basically, whatever you want to drink, you can find it here!
Night Dress Mask's Kiss: Rose wine with a charming appearance that makes girls adore it, with a refreshing rose fragrance. With low alcohol content, it's perfect for small gatherings of girlfriends or leisure time. The rose flavor is not strong at first, but the taste of the wine becomes clearer as you drink, intoxicating.
Ancient Qiang Wheat Straw Zha Wine: A blue-and-white porcelain bottle with a strong Jianghu vibe! Wheat straw as a straw, sipping wine amidst laughter—quite a unique experience.
Barbecue Platter: Fine wine and skewers are an inseparable couple. Eating barbecue without wine seems to betray the party! Small sausages, shrimp, corn kernels, dried tofu, green beans, and many other dishes—spicy, numbing, fresh, and fragrant—satisfying different people's cravings.
Lemongrass Grilled Fish: Besides barbecue, this grilled fish is a must-order. Although the fish is not big, the aroma already hooks you. With lemongrass added, the fish's fragrance is fresher! After frying, the fish is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, smooth and delicious—perfect. Sitting and enjoying such a music bar is the best way to experience leisure and comfort.
| 贰·Tip of the Tongue: Sichuan Cuisine, Unforgettable Yuan Gong
What people call Chengdu's leisure life is not the office buildings in the High-tech Zone, not the crowded Kuanzhai Alley, or the street-photographed Chunxi Road. Come to People's Park—this is the place Chengdu people most look forward to in life.
People's Park, with a 100-year history, serves as both a material and spiritual carrier, storing real old Chengdu life. On weekends, People's Park becomes the most lively.
There are two old tea houses in the park: Yongju and Heming. Heming is the most famous. Built in the 1920s, it is nearly a hundred years old, almost as old as People's Park. Hence it is called Centennial Heming. You must learn to "strike first," because Heming is always full. Once someone leaves, grab a seat quickly. After sitting, a waitress dressed in blue-and-white porcelain style will come to clean the table and let you order tea.
The playground is the loudest place. The sound of children playing and laughing is endless. Small trains, carousels, roller coasters—every child and big child can find their source of joy.
But the most popular activity in People's Park is still boating. Faded small boats bear the childhood memories of Chengdu people since the last century. The most people come when the weather is good; boating requires queuing. Young parents bring their children to row boats, enjoying family happiness. Of course, there are also couples dating. In short, no matter who is on the boat, they are as happy as children.
After visiting the park, I planned to take my family to Yuan Gong on Chunxi Road. I had heard from friends that this restaurant is an authentic Zigong-style Sichuan cuisine restaurant, quite popular and bustling. So I came specifically to taste it.
By the time we arrived, many people were already dining! The decoration of this restaurant is quite down-to-earth, with a nostalgic charm that is very attractive. The atmosphere highlights old Chengdu characteristics. Private rooms, the main hall, and booth seats all have design flair, decorated with flowers and clusters, exuding a unique charm.
Many of the customers here are tourists visiting Chengdu. The dishes they ordered are very characteristic of Chengdu: mao xue wang, sliced chicken, and the signature rabbit—these are the reasons I must visit. It's been a long time since I've tasted such fresh, fragrant, spicy, and numbing dishes. Big thumbs up!
Yuan Gong Sliced Chicken: Chicken slices are tender and delicate, with excellent taste. Added with chopped green onions and scallion whites, refreshing and delicious. Drizzled with secret red oil seasoning, the spiciness is just right.
Longmen Hanging Meat: The preparation is like whole fried crispy meat. The young lady cuts it while saying auspicious words—a nice ritual. The meat is very tender, smooth to eat, and even better when dipped in chili powder.
Yuan Gong Signature Rabbit: Tender and smooth rabbit meat paired with refreshing and juicy clams, the texture is instantly elevated. Fragrant and spicy, super satisfying to eat.
Yuan Gong Braised Duck: Duck meat is delicate and delicious, with a rich braised flavor. Especially the skin part is smooth and tasty, with excellent texture.
Huoshui Silver Carp: The silver carp is quite large. The back of the fish is cut into several slices to absorb flavor more easily. The fish meat is snow-white and tender. Celery and green chili segments are particularly delicious—my absolute favorite. Such delicacies should not be missed. Action speaks louder than desire.
| 贰·Natural Humanity, Delicate Sentiments: The Exotic Charm of Jiaoliao
Jiaoliao—a place whose name makes you want to learn more. This phrase comes from Zhuangzi's "Free and Easy Wandering": "The jiaoliao bird nests in the deep forest, using only one branch; the mole drinks from the river, only filling its belly." In this world of insatiable desires, we shouldn't be too greedy. We should try to "be not urged by the world's praise, nor discouraged by its blame; define the boundary between inner and outer, distinguish the realm of honor and disgrace." Perhaps such a state is too difficult. Hence Jiaoliao exists, letting us slow down and stop chasing, giving us a space.
Jiaoliao Hotel is a strong branch among the myriad trees of the deep forest, pursuing carefree freedom, unwilling to drag its tail in the mud. It draws nourishment from old Chengdu culture, seeking a "slow life" in the busy city, returning to a natural state of living.
Pushing open the door, a corridor comes into view. At the end of the corridor hangs a plaque reading "Riding on Things to Roam the Heart" (Cheng Wu Yi You Xin). This comes from Zhuangzi's "The World of Men." Understanding its meaning, one cannot help but admire the great wisdom of the old master Zhuangzi.
After entering the hotel, we visited all four floors one by one. The design and decoration of this hotel are truly nice, giving a comfortable and cozy feeling. During the tour, we found that each room has its own unique name, such as Yanqian, Youwei, Shihui, etc. We planned to stay in Yanqian (Shallow Words) because when we first saw this name, my friend and I liked it very much. It seemed to contain deep meaning, leaving us endless imagination.
The security of this hotel is also very good. The rooms require a card swipe or the butler to open. After confirming the stay, the butler gave us a room card shaped like a jiaoliao bird, cute and charming! Looking closely, there is a butler service window outside the door. Opening it, we found it was connected inside and out. When we called, the butler would put things we needed inside, and we could just take them. This design is very thoughtful—convenient and without disturbing guests.
Although outwardly Jiaoliao is simple and elegant, the items used in the rooms are consistent with five-star hotels. For example, mattresses, linens, sanitary ware, and automatic toilets—the hardware facilities are excellent. Various decorations are complete and neatly arranged. Everything feels so cozy and comfortable. The branded equipment subtly reflects the hotel's high-end quality—we couldn't take our hands off! My friend kept saying that this place is even more cozy than home.
After entering, we found that on the headboard of each room there is a affectionate jiaoliao bird gazing deeply, as if thinking or listening. In each room, the posture and expression of the jiaoliao are different. My friend and I treated it as our listener, trying to talk to it. Those troubles hard to tell others can all be poured out to this little creature that can only be understood but not explained. After saying all the unhappiness, I felt much better.
On the TV wall, a large hand-embroidered Shu brocade peony blooms, and there are koi leaping on Shu brocade. When reaching out to touch, we couldn't help but admire the skilled craftsmanship and long-standing culture of our ancestors. Overall, the rooms are full of traditional Sichuan cultural elements. While staying, you can also feel the cultural influence. My friends and I often travel and have stayed in some good hotels, but a hotel as thoughtful and attentive as this is rare. We definitely chose the right place this time.
The room also provides four types of top-grade tea from Mengdingshan. Drinking too many carbonated drinks can be burdening. When we settled down, we brewed a cup of tea and slowly savored nature's gift—immediately feeling refreshed and clear-headed.
My friend and I also found that the most thoughtful part of this hotel is not only the room configuration and decoration but also the excellent butler service. They can customize travel routes, itinerary plans for guests, and solve any problems encountered in the hotel. Even our breakfast every morning can be customized—according to our taste and time, delivered to the room. Lunch at noon is at Zifei, the first restaurant themed on Zhuangzi's culture in Kuanzhai Alley. It integrates culture, Sichuan cuisine, drinking games, and performances, taking you into pavilions, ancient music, and opera dynasties. In the morning, opening the wooden window and breathing the first breeze and sunlight of Kuanzhai Alley is so refreshing. After washing up, we enjoyed the hotel's customized breakfast, feeling deeply touched.
After eating, we stood in the small garden, breathing fresh air, admiring the clear night sky, brewing a cup of hot tea, and exploring the stories of the years in this ancient alley up close.
Looking carefully, we spotted a spider weaving its web on the opposite roof, and a falling leaf landing on the table... Look, everything is striving to grow!
In the busy and noisy city, there is always a leisurely, cozy place where you can relax your body and mind.