Golden October, National Day Holiday -- Seeking the Hometown of Wu Zetian, the Three Kingdoms Stronghold of Zhaohua Ancient City, and the Tender City of Rongcheng!
Since the beginning of this year, we experienced the lockdown during the pandemic. For over half a year, everyone stayed at home. In the golden October, National Day holiday, we ushered in the peak travel season. Everyone can relax and go out to see the world!
My starting point is Guangyuan, which is also my hometown. Guangyuan is actually an ancient city with a long history of over 4,000 years. It belongs to Sichuan Province, and was called Lizhou in ancient times. It has long been known as the "Hometown of the Empress," "Important Town in Northern Shu," "Gateway to Northern Sichuan," and "Golden Triangle of Bashu." The rulers of the Yuan Dynasty, to demonstrate their "virtue and power spreading far and wide, and vast territory," changed Lizhou to Guangyuan, a name that has been used until now. So, when mentioning Lizhou, many friends may not know where it is. Guangyuan has a profound and ancient history, with many famous attractions such as Bailong Lake, Jianmen Shu Road, Tangjiahe, Micang Mountain, Jianmen Pass, and Huangze Temple.
DAY1 - Depart from Guangyuan City Center
[Trip Plan] Huangze Temple
NO.1 Huangze Temple
Nearby Transportation: Huangze Temple Scenic Area β Guangyuan Railway Station (1.5KM)
Huangze Temple Scenic Area β Guangyuan South Station (2.9KM)
Phone: 0839-3607013; 0839-3607017
Ticket: 38 RMB
Opening Hours: 08:00--18:00
When you arrive in Guangyuan, one thing you must know is that Wu Zetian, the only female emperor in Chinese history, was from Guangyuan!
Huangze Temple is the only temple dedicated to Wu Zetian. It is located on the banks of the Jialing River in the west of Guangyuan City. It is a key national cultural relic protection unit. Huangze Temple was originally built in the 22nd year of the Guangzheng era of the Later Shu (AD 959). The original Huangze Temple, facing the river, had the "Zetian Gate," "Heavenly Queen's Dressing Tower," "Music Tower" (theater), as well as buildings such as the "Maitreya Buddha Hall" and "Iron Guanyin Hall."
Huangze Temple is located at the foot of Wulong Mountain on the west bank of the Jialing River in Guangyuan. According to the "Huangze Temple Affairs Stele" written by Chen Hong'en of the Ming Dynasty, "Huangze Temple is said to have been founded by Empress Wu." Zhang Banshen of the Qing Dynasty wrote in "Yunzhan Jicheng," "When Empress Wu held power, she built Huangze Temple here."
Huangze Temple was first built during the Kaiyuan era of the Tang Dynasty (AD 959), with a history of over a thousand years. Its original name was "Wunu Temple," also known as "Chuanzhu Temple." After Wu Zetian became emperor, to commemorate her place of rising, she bestowed the name "Huangze," meaning "imperial grace vast, extending to the hometown." Some also say that legend has it that after Wu Zetian died, she became a deity, and the people built a temple named "Huangze" for her, hoping that her spirit in heaven would bless the hometown. Therefore, the temple has always housed her true portrait from her later years. So when you come to Huangze Temple, you must see Wu Zetian's true portrait and learn about her glorious history.
The existing Huangze Temple was restored in the Qing Dynasty. It is built along the mountain, with staggered levels, simple and elegant, with green trees and red buildings, red railings and painted beams, truly extraordinary.
Scenic spots within the temple include the Great Buddha Tower (with the Zetian Hall downstairs), the Wu Family Ancestral Hall, the LΓΌzu Pavilion, the Five Buddhas Pavilion, the Sericulture Pavilion, the Viewing Pavilion, the Song Dynasty Tomb Stone Carving Wall, the Stele Corridor, the Empress Culture Exhibition Hall, and the Empress Villa. Additionally, the temple preserves cliff carvings from the Northern Wei to the Ming and Qing dynasties.
In the Two Sages Hall, bronze statues of Emperor Gaozong of Tang, Li Zhi, and Wu Zetian are enshrined in the center. This depicts a very rare phenomenon in Chinese history: the emperor and empress ruling together and holding court.
The statue of Wu Zetian is slightly taller than that of Emperor Gaozong, exactly capturing the meaning of Wu Zetian's power surpassing that of Emperor Gaozong, showing her formidable nature.
On the left and right sides of the hall are statues of nine famous ministers from the reigns of Gaozong and Wu Zhou, including on the left: Li Ji (Xu Maogong, a general and prime minister across three reigns), Li Zhaode (prime minister), Wei Yuanzhong (twice prime minister), Li Yifu (prime minister) (four people in the picture); on the right: Shangguan Wan'er (in charge of imperial edicts), Di Renjie (prime minister, master of solving cases), Lou Shide (prime minister, famous general), Zhang Jianzhi (prime minister), and Lai Junchen (cruel official) (five people).
After exiting the Two Sages Hall, visit the "Wu Family Ancestral Hall." This hall is a Han Chinese clan temple building, serving as a place for Wu Zetian to worship her ancestors and sages, recording the glory and tradition of the Wu family, and is the family's sacred hall.
Inside the Wu Family Ancestral Hall, there is a statue of Wu Zetian's entire family. Wu Zetian's father, Wu Shiyue (pronounced "yue"), was one of the founding heroes of the Tang Dynasty. He was sidelined and sent to Lizhou (now Guangyuan City) as the governor. After Wu's original wife died, Tang Gaozu Li Yuan acted as matchmaker, marrying him to a second wife, Yang (later granted the title Lady Rongguo). After marriage, Yang gave birth to three daughters, with Wu Zetian being the second daughter.
Outside the Wu Family Ancestral Hall stands a stele with the inscription "Guangyuan Huangze Temple" personally written by Guo Moruo.
At the highest point of Huangze Temple is the "Great Buddha Tower"
The ground floor of the Great Buddha Tower is the Empress's True Portrait Hall β the Zetian Hall. This hall was first built in the Tang Dynasty and historically known as "Empress Wu's True Portrait Hall" or "Saint Empress Zetian Hall." Unlike ordinary folk temples, this official temple built by imperial decree of the empress does not have a "Mahavira Hall." Therefore, the Zetian Hall is the main hall of Huangze Temple.
In the center of the Zetian Hall, the only "stone-carved true portrait of Empress Wu" in China is preserved. This is a gilded stone seated statue of Empress Wu in her old age. Wu Zetian wears a jeweled crown with a seated Buddha, a necklace, a chest ornament of jewels, exposing her chest and arms, with her hands in front of her abdomen in a meditation mudra, dressed like a Buddhist Madonna.
The hall displays a "Guangzheng Stele," which is an important basis for verifying that Wu Zetian was born in Guangyuan. Also displayed is the Wu family genealogy. Wu Zetian was born in Guangyuan in AD 624 and died in Luoyang's Shangyang Palace in AD 705, living to age 81. She ruled for 49 years, was emperor for 21 years, empress for 28 years, and empress dowager for 6 years. At age 67, she officially changed the Tang to Zhou and ascended the throne, becoming the only female emperor in Chinese history.
It is noteworthy that because the temple has always housed Wu Zetian's true portrait, a grand temple fair was held every year on her birthday (the 23rd day of the first lunar month). However, this activity was once interrupted, and it was only restored in 1988 as a folk festival, but the date was changed to September 1st each year and renamed "Daughters' Festival." Many friends from outside may not know what the Daughters' Festival is!
The cliff carvings at Huangze Temple are all chiseled into the cliffs facing the river. The main stone carving niches include the Central Pillar Cave, the Great Buddha Cave, the Five Buddhas Pavilion Stone Niche, and the Zetian Hall Stone Niche. In the Yinghui Tower, there is a No. 38 niche covered with glass, which is a statue from the late Northern Wei Dynasty. Each of the three walls has a niche, and inside each niche is carved one Buddha and two Bodhisattvas, representing the highest artistic level.
The Great Buddha Cave is a representative work of early Tang Dynasty Buddhist sculpture art. The Buddha statues in this cave are different from those elsewhere; they all wear earrings. Therefore, many people say that the Buddha here is a substitute statue for Wu Zetian, implying that after Wu Zetian died, she became a Buddha.
In the center of the Great Buddha statue is Amitabha, the lord of the Western Pure Land in Buddhism. On the left and right are the two disciples Kasyapa and Ananda, and on the outside are Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva and Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. Amitabha, Mahasthamaprapta, and Avalokitesvara are also known as the "Three Saints of the West." On the left and right are also disciples and warriors, each carved vividly, lifelike, and very lively.
Standing on the Great Buddha Tower built into the mountain, you can see the city of Guangyuan on the other side of the Jialing River. You can also glimpse a corner of the Phoenix Tower~
We return to the Great Buddha Tower and continue forward to the "Stele Corridor," where there are steles from various periods. In the middle of the stele corridor is a "Guangyuan Fu Ji Stele" over 700 years old, which provides later generations with valuable historical materials to understand the history of Guangyuan.
Passing the stele corridor, we reach the "Empress Culture Exhibition Hall." This is the only large-scale thematic exhibition hall for Wu Zetian in China, mainly to understand her glorious life. The exhibition hall covers an area of over 2,300 square meters and is divided into two parts. The first part uses four units β "Rising in Lizhou," "Toward the Throne," "Great Achievements and Victories," and "Wordless Monument" β to truly reflect Wu Zetian's extraordinary life from birth to rule. The second part is the history of the world's top ten queens.
In an era of male dominance, Wu Zetian became emperor as a woman, a unique figure for millennia. Wu Zetian entered the palace at 14, participated in politics at 32, became emperor at 67, and passed away at 81. During her reign, she inherited and developed the Zhenguan reign of Emperor Taizong of Tang, inspiring Emperor Xuanzong of Tang to create the KaiyuanηδΈ. She can be described as "one of a kind, unrivaled for a thousand years."
Regarding the evaluation of Wu Zetian, the world has always debated, with both praise and criticism. In the study of ancient Chinese history, no other figure has caused historians to have such contradictory evaluations. Wu Zetian is destined to be a figure whose "coffin lid cannot be closed" for a final verdict.
After visiting the Empress Culture Exhibition Hall, we conclude our tour of the Huangze Temple scenic area.
[About Food] Empress Wu's Steamed Cold Noodles
Address: Found everywhere in Guangyuan
Price: 6-12 yuan
As soon as we came out, we were starving. Entering the city, the aroma of rice cold noodles from street-side alleys filled the air.
Empress Wu's Steamed Cold Noodles is a traditional Sichuan specialty snack with five flavors: sour, sweet, numbing, spicy, and fragrant. It's full of Sichuan flavor. The cold noodles make people's faces red and mouths numb, but it's delicious. Empress Wu's Steamed Cold Noodles are still widely eaten in Wu Zetian's hometown β Guangyuan, Sichuan, but outside, it's almost impossible to eat authentic Empress Wu's Steamed Cold Noodles.
Super delicious, and very cheap. It is said that only the water from Guangyuan can make them, and the portion is generous. // Satisfaction
After eating and drinking our fill, we continue on.
DAY1 - Guangyuan Huangze Temple Scenic Area β Zhaohua Ancient City
[Trip Plan] Zhaohua Ancient City
NO.2 Zhaohua Ancient City
Nearby Transportation: Zhaohua Ancient City β Guangyuan Railway Station (about 35 minutes by car, 26KM)
Zhaohua Ancient City β Guangyuan Panlong Airport (about 31 minutes by car, about 15KM)
Phone: 0839-8310919
Ticket: 58 (No ticket for entering the main gate, but a combo ticket for attractions inside the city is sold. Price: 58 yuan/person, online price 40 yuan, half ticket 29 yuan.)
Opening Hours: 08:30-17:30
Zhaohua Ancient City is a national 4A-level tourist attraction. It is located at the confluence of the Bailong River, Jialing River, and Qing River. The Jialing River water here forms a whirlpool, creating a natural Tai Chi pattern, earning the reputation of "the world's first landscape Tai Chi." The ancient city is surrounded by mountains on four sides and water on three sides, with beautiful scenery and outstanding people. There are many ancient sites and relics, and the folk customs are simple and elegant. It is an ideal place for tourists to sightsee, relax on vacation, and for scholars to conduct archaeological research.
Zhaohua Ancient City is not large, but it takes a whole day to explore it carefully. Within the city, there are four main streets (Taishou Street, Tufei Street, Xiangfu Street, and Xianya Street) and five alleys.
In 316 BC, the Qin state conquered the Ju state and established Jiameng County here, making it one of the earliest counties to implement the county system in Chinese history. Therefore, Zhaohua is truly the "First County of Bashu."
Zhaohua, anciently called Jiameng, has a history of over 2,100 years and is known as "the important Three Kingdoms town on the Shu Road." It is currently the only well-preserved ancient city from the Three Kingdoms period in China.
Continuing forward, you can see a simple and elegant memorial archway β "Jiameng Archway." This Jiameng Archway is 8.6 meters high and 6.8 meters wide, with a majestic presence. The couplets and patterns on it vividly showcase Zhaohua's long history, profound culture, unique transportation and military status, and magical Tai Chi landscape. The pillar couplet on the east side reads: "Three Kingdoms stronghold on the Shu Road, the world's first Tai Chi." Above are carved patterns of "Shu Han flourished in Jiameng," "Jubai Ancient Ferry," and "Landscape Tai Chi."
From the time Liu Bei entered Jiameng during the Three Kingdoms period to the fall of Shu Han, over 52 years, many Three Kingdoms heroes such as Liu Bei, Zhuge Liang, Zhang Fei, and Ma Chao strategized and fought in Zhaohua, leaving behind many Shu Han relics.
The couplet on the west side of the archway reads: "First County of Bashu, Second Capital of Shu Kingdom." Around 400 BC, the ancient Shu Kingdom established the "Ju Kingdom" north of Cangxi County to the south of Hanzhong, with its capital on the soil dam at the confluence of the Jialing and Bailong Rivers outside Zhaohua City (then called Tufei City). Hence, Zhaohua was called the "Second Capital of Shu Kingdom." At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, due to a major flood in Tufei City, the capital was moved to today's Zhaohua Ancient City. The archway also has carvings of "Fei Yi established his office to govern," "Zhaohua West Gate Tower," and "Tianxiong Pass Ancient Post Road."
In ancient times, to travel from Chengdu to Chang'an (Xi'an), one had to enter through the west gate and exit through the east gate; from Chang'an (Xi'an) to Chengdu, one entered through the east gate and exited through the west gate. Therefore, Jiameng Pass was a crucial point on the Qin-Shu ancient road. Over 2,000 years ago, Jiameng Pass became a famous ancient battlefield, with stories of Zhang Fei fighting Ma Chao under lanterns, Yan Yan repelling Cao's army, and Jiang Wei besieged at Niutou Mountain.
In 1936, the Sichuan-Shaanxi Highway was completed, and in 1953, the Baoji-Chengdu Railway opened. Zhaohua's important transportation status ceased. The once prosperous ancient city gradually declined, becoming a tourist destination. Visitors can climb the city towers with a combo ticket.
The Zhanfeng City Gate tower was restored according to the original Ming Dynasty style, 9.8 meters high. The gate opening is 4.2 meters high, 3.25 meters wide, and 11.2 meters deep. Visitors can use the combo ticket to go up the city tower.
Entering South Gate Alley, you find "Gu's Grand Courtyard." This courtyard is one of the representative ancient residential buildings in South Gate Alley.
The courtyard is exquisitely carved, with features combining low eaves and thick walls typical of northern residences, as well as "dry boat patio" characteristics.
The courtyard is a typical Qing Dynasty wooden frame courtyard, with multiple inner courtyards, mostly two-story buildings, with carved beams and painted rafters, exquisitely crafted.
Historically, Zhaohua was a hub of water and land transportation. Coupled with its beautiful natural environment, it attracted many officials, merchants, literati, peddlers, boatmen, actors, and singing girls from all directions. "A thousand people salute during the day, ten thousand lanterns shine at night" β commerce was developed, culture was prosperous, and life was leisurely, making people linger and indulge. Hence, the folk saying: "When you reach Zhaohua, you forget your parents." Today, although the former prosperity is gone, the ancient city's long and profound history still attracts people to explore and savor.
In the evening, take a walk along the streets to see the night view of the ancient city. In the night, the ancient city is only peaceful. This concludes the introduction to Zhaohua Ancient City. Of course, many spots may have been missed, as we didn't enter them, so we can't introduce them.
DAY2 - Guangyuan Zhaohua Ancient City Scenic Area β Chengdu City Center (via 108 National Highway > G5 Beijing-Kunming Expressway > S57 North Exit Expressway > Fuqing Cross Line Bridge > Hongxing Road Section 3 > Hongwasi Street) 4 hours by car, 280KM
[Trip Plan] Chengdu City Center Hongwasi Street
NO.3 Hongwasi Old Mandarin Duck Building
Chengdu has always been a city that touches people's hearts.
When traveling, whenever I walk on the streets at night, my thoughts fly everywhere, but I always miss Chengdu.
It seems that no matter how many places I go, it's not as good as returning to Chengdu, sitting on an old wooden bench, eating a bowl of steaming noodles. For a moment, time freezes on the streets of Chengdu, frozen on the rising steam.
Whether you have been to Chengdu or not, whether you grew up in Chengdu or just passed through, it's hard to deny that this land of Chengdu has its unique temperament.
Through all the hardships, there is always a way home. My way home is destined to be Chengdu.
Exploring ancient Shu, the marks of time engraved in Chengdu
Among the most lively and ancient places in Chengdu, the Hongwasi Mandarin Duck Building counts as one.
The original appearance of old Chengdu | Mandarin Duck Building
This is an old residential area, looking quite shabby, but also beautiful and real.
In the 1970s, to solve the housing problem for young faculty and staff, Sichuan University built this building, allocating it to those who were already married with children, or planning to marry and have children. Thus it was called the "Mandarin Duck Building."
Today, the Mandarin Duck Building has become a rental house for migrant workers. Outside the walls are streets full of life; inside the walls are old-time alleys that feel like time travel. Two completely different worlds contain the look of old Chengdu.
Red bricks and green tiles, broken buildings retain the time of old Chengdu life.
[About Accommodation] Jinjiang Inn (Chengdu Consulate District Sichuan University Hotel)
DAY2 - Hongwasi Street Area β Jinjiang Inn Sichuan University Branch (2 traffic lights, 1.5KM)
This hotel is located on the west side of Sichuan University, with an excellent location. It is a well-known chain hotel brand under the Jinjiang Group. There is no need to worry about hygiene and safety. Mainly, if you drive, you understand β free parking is available here. Coming from Hongwasi, although there are many hotels along the way, very few have parking lots. And the rooms are not bad, cheap, clean, and hygienic. It is the first choice for friends driving.
The rooms are spacious and bright. If you go out with friends, a standard room is enough. The front desk service is not bad, after all, it's a chain brand.
Address: No. 36 Kehua North Road
Nearby Transportation: Jinjiang Inn (Chengdu Consulate District Sichuan University Hotel) β Chengdu Railway North Station (30 minutes by car, 10KM)
Jinjiang Inn (Chengdu Consulate District Sichuan University Hotel) β Chengdu High-Speed Rail Station (East Station) - about 30 minutes by car, 14KM
Metro Line: Line 3, Moziqiao Station
Bus stop: Mocun Station (Routes 298/49/55, 62, 6, 92, G92, Night 9, Airport Express Night Line 2)
Phone: 028-85216536-0
DAY2 - Jinjiang Inn (Chengdu Consulate District Sichuan University Hotel) β Jinli (about 19 minutes by car, 6.3 km, 11 traffic lights)
[Trip Plan] Jinli
NO.3 Jinli
Dreaming back to Chengdu, the seductive night of Jinli | Jinli
"Mottled sunlight wanders here, every step carries attachment and return, moving towards the ancient, deep alley.
The wooden door is very quiet, the lattice windows are very quiet, the time on the tile houses and carved eaves is very quiet. Water flows around here, lamplight rises and falls here, moonlight shuttles here.
Pack the quiet life into a bag, stand alone in front of Jinli's gate, look around at the sky above and the green grass beside, the long alley comes with ancient shouts, the covered bowl tea wafts a thick classical charm, the colorful cloth curtains sway in the wind.
The path is winding, the bluestone bricks go all the way forward, the vermilion lacquered wooden doors are ajar, revealing Sichuan opera masks, a clear and refreshing aria lengthens the distant time of Jinli.
Jinli is regarded as a must-visit place in Chengdu; there must be a reason. Although it is quite popular, you still have to go to Jinli when you come to Chengdu. No Jinli, no Chengdu. Although the things there are now modern reconstructions, Jinli has been a famous commercial center since the Qin-Han and Three Kingdoms periods, and is considered one of the oldest pedestrian streets in China.
Today's Jinli has stalls for traditional craftsmen, paper-cutting, sugar painting, etc. Shadow puppetry is especially fascinating.
In 2005, Jinli was selected as one of the "Top Ten Commercial Pedestrian Streets in China" and is known as the Chengdu version of "Along the River During the Qingming Festival."
Here, you can enjoy the craftsmanship of clay figurine making and sugar painting, or browse shops with Three Kingdoms characteristics. There are also various Sichuan snacks, tea houses, cafes, bars, and inns where you can sit anytime.
But personally, I think you can skip Jinli during the day, but Jinli at night is really beautiful.
For friends from other places visiting Chengdu, I always recommend Jinli for the night view. The red lanterns along the streets are especially beautiful. On both sides are green brick walls and antique carved wooden buildings, simple and elegant.
Jinli is more lively at night. There are some small bars inside, where a pot of wine can make life drunk.
In addition, Jinli is also a food street. Ice jelly, bobo chicken, three cannons, trotters, fermented rice wine, guokui, rabbit head, etc., are irresistible.
Address: No. 231 Fuyi Jinli, Wuhou Temple Street, Wuhou District, Chengdu
Nearby Transportation: Jinli β Chengdu Railway North Station (23 minutes by car, 12KM)
Jinli β Chengdu High-Speed Rail Station (East Station) - about 30 minutes by car, 17KM
Metro Line: Line 5, Gaoshengqiao Station / Line 5, Provincial Orthopedic Hospital Station
Tips: Jinli is adjacent to Wuhou Temple. There are countless attractions in Chengdu city center. Must-see list: β Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, β‘ Kuanzhai Alley, β’ People's Park, β£ Huanhuaxi Park, β€β₯β¦β§... etc. I won't list them all here. During the day, you can visit farther attractions, and at night, experience Chengdu's slow life: mahjong, tea houses, strolling by the Funan River is also a good experience.
That's all for now, thanks for watching!
