October 2020 Trip to Mount Emei and Around Chengdu
Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei Mount Emei - Leidongping Eastern Buddha Land Eastern Buddha Land Eastern Buddha Land Eastern Buddha Land Kuanzhai Alley Kuanzhai Alley Kuanzhai Alley Dujiangyan Scenic Area Dujiangyan Scenic Area Dujiangyan Scenic Area Dujiangyan Scenic Area Dujiangyan Scenic Area Sanxingdui Museum Sanxingdui Museum Sanxingdui Museum Sanxingdui Museum Sichuan Jianchuan Museum Cluster Sichuan Jianchuan Museum Cluster Sichuan Jianchuan Museum Cluster Dayi Liu's Manor Museum Dayi Liu's Manor Museum Dayi Liu's Manor Museum Anren Ancient Town
Following our trip to Chengdu in May this year, we went to Chengdu again in the golden autumn of October. Our main goals this time were to visit Mount Emei, see Dujiangyan, Sanxingdui, and Anren Ancient Town, and once again enjoy the comfortable and leisurely life of Chengdu.
Day 1: Guangzhou -- Chengdu -- Mount Emei
In the morning, we took a China Southern Airlines flight to Chengdu. After arrival, we transferred directly from Chengdu Shuangliu Airport to a high-speed train to Mount Emei. Our hotel was booked next to the Mount Emei Tourist Coach Center. We dropped off our luggage and walked to Baoguo Temple and Fuhu Temple. Accommodation: City Comfort Inn (Mount Emei Branch)
Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport
On October 21, we flew to Chengdu, Sichuan via China Southern Airlines.
Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport
After arriving at Chengdu Shuangliu Airport at noon, we transferred directly within the airport to the bullet train from Chengdu to Mount Emei, which was very convenient.
Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport
After about half an hour on the bullet train, we arrived at Mount Emei.
After exiting the station, the car (free) from our booked hotel picked us up at the station and took us to the hotel. The hotel had an excellent location, just 100 meters from the Mount Emei Tourist Coach Center, and the room facilities were also quite nice.
Mount Emei Mount Emei
After dropping off our luggage, we went out. This is the Mount Emei Tourist Coach Center. It sells scenic area tickets and tourist bus tickets. Starting at 6:00 AM every day, tourist buses depart continuously for the scenic area. When full, a bus departs; when there are fewer tourists, buses depart on the hour and half-hour. The latest departure to the scenic area is 5:00 PM.
Mount Emei Mount Emei
Mount Emei is located in the southwestern part of Sichuan Province. It is one of the four famous Buddhist mountains in China, with steep terrain and beautiful scenery, known as the 'Most Beautiful under Heaven.' The highest peak, Wanfo Summit, is 3099 meters above sea level. According to the Emei County Annals, 'The clouds gather like black tresses, the distant makeup like dark hair, truly like a moth's eyebrows, slender and long, beautiful and charming, hence the name Mount Emei.' Mount Emei is the bodhimanda of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva. Religious culture, especially Buddhist culture, constitutes the main part of Mount Emei's historical culture. It is one of China's tourist, vacation, and summer resort destinations.
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Mount Emei is a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site. The ancient architectural complex of Mount Emei is a key national cultural relic protection unit. The Mount Emei Scenic Area, with Mount Emei as its core, is a national key scenic spot and a national AAAAA-level tourist attraction.
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Emei martial arts originated at Mount Emei, hence the name. The various schools of martial arts circulating in the Bashu (most of southwestern) region, due to similar geographical environments and interconnected humanities and nature, have formed very similar and interconnected styles and characteristics, collectively referred to as Emei school martial arts, forming a major regional martial arts system centered on Mount Emei - the Emei School.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
Baoguo Temple is located at the foot of Mount Emei, at an altitude of 551 meters. It is the first temple on Mount Emei and the seat of the Mount Emei Buddhist Association. Baoguo Temple is the center of Buddhist activities on Mount Emei. Among the many temples on Mount Emei, Baoguo Temple is the gateway to the mountain and the starting point for visiting Mount Emei.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
Baoguo Temple is surrounded by towering nanmu trees and red walls, with magnificent halls, golden splendor, curling incense smoke, and frequent sounds of bells. Baoguo Temple faces east, greeting the rising sun in the morning and seeing off the setting sun in the evening. In front is Fenghuang Fort, behind is Fenghuang Ping, to the left is Fenghuang Lake, and to the right is Laifeng Pavilion, just like a beautiful, auspicious golden phoenix about to fly toward the sun. At the front gate, a pair of stone lions carved in the Ming Dynasty, vivid and majestic, stand like left and right guards protecting this famous mountain treasure temple. On the mountain gate, the large plaque 'Baoguo Temple' was inscribed by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty and written by Yufan.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
Among the many temples on Mount Emei, Baoguo Temple is the largest in scale and also has the greatest fame and influence.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
In the main hall of Baoguo Temple hangs a plaque reading 'Baoxiang Zhuangyan' (Solemn Sacred Appearance). The couplet on the pillars at the mountain gate reads, 'The phoenix spreads its wings toward the golden palace, the sound of bells frequently falls on the jade steps.' This is a vivid description of the surroundings of this 'golden phoenix' at Baoguo Temple. The horizontal plaques 'Puzhao Chanlin' (Universal Illumination Zen Forest) and 'Pufang Guangming' (Universal Radiance) both convey the same meaning: Buddhism calls Mount Emei 'Great Bright Mountain,' with miraculous Buddha light appearing during the day and ten thousand holy lamps coming in the night, illuminating the entire Mount Emei.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
In the Maitreya Hall is a statue of Maitreya. 'Maitreya' means compassion. He is a bodhisattva, not yet a Buddha. In Buddhism, a bodhisattva ranks just below a Buddha. Maitreya is called the 'Future Buddha.' 'Open your mouth and laugh, laugh at the past and present, laugh everything off; with a big belly, tolerate heaven and earth, tolerate everything.' This is a vivid description of Maitreya Bodhisattva, inspiring people to be open-minded and tolerant in dealing with others.
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
In the Mahavira Hall, a golden painted statue of Shakyamuni Buddha seated on a lotus is enshrined. On the left niche is a painted golden statue of Manjusri Bodhisattva. Manjusri, fully known as 'Manjusri,' means wonderful virtue and auspiciousness. He is the foremost of all bodhisattvas and the embodiment of wisdom. Together with Samantabhadra Bodhisattva, they serve as the left and right attendant bodhisattvas of Shakyamuni Buddha. On the right niche is a golden seated statue of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva on a lotus. On the left and right sides of the hall are enshrined the Eighteen Arhats. Arhats are the enlightened disciples of the Buddha; the Eighteen Arhats are the accompanying disciples of Shakyamuni Buddha. In the rear niche is a statue of Amitabha Buddha, also known as 'Amitayus Buddha' or 'Infinite Life Buddha,' the lord of the Western Pure Land.
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In the Seven Buddhas Hall, seven Buddhas are enshrined. The middle one is Shakyamuni Buddha, and the other six are past Buddhas. From right to left: Namo Krakucchanda Buddha, Namo Kanakamuni Buddha, Namo Kashyapa Buddha, Namo Vipashyin Buddha, Namo Shikhin Buddha, and Namo Vishvabhu Buddha. The crafting technique for these seven Buddha statues is called 'tuo sha su zao' (a method of creating hollow, lightweight statues using clay and gauze).
Mount Emei - Baoguo Temple
In the Samantabhadra Hall, a golden statue of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva is enshrined. Samantabhadra Bodhisattva, in Sanskrit 'Samantabhadra,' means universal virtue and goodness. Samantabhadra is also called 'King of Great Practice and Vows' for his extensive cultivation of the 'Ten Great Vows.' 'Vows' are ideals, and 'Practice' is implementation. Mount Emei is the bodhimanda of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva, so he is enshrined in the last hall. On the hall door is written: 'The golden splendor of the pavilion, that is the dwelling of the Bodhisattva; the brilliance of the udumbara flower illuminates the loving heart of the monk.' It means that the hall decorated with golden yellow is the dwelling of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva; the brilliant light of the udumbara flower illuminates the love for Buddha in the hearts of Chan practitioners.
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The mountain gate of Fuhu Temple. Fuhu Temple is also called Fuhu Chan Temple, Shenlong Tang, or Huxi Jing She, and is adjacent to Baoguo Temple. Fuhu Temple was a small temple in the Jin Dynasty, rebuilt by Master Yun'an in the Tang Dynasty, with a Shenlong Hall and Yaoshi Hall beside it. In the Song Dynasty, it was called Shenlong Hall. It was destroyed in the Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in the eighth year of Shunzhi of the Qing Dynasty, renamed Huxi Jing She. Later, due to tiger troubles nearby, the temple monks built a Stupa of Victory to suppress them, and it was renamed Fuhu Temple (Temple of Subduing Tigers).
Fuhu Temple Fuhu Temple
The entire temple of Fuhu is hidden in dense forests, hence the name 'Hidden Tiger in Dense Forest.' After entering the mountain gate of Fuhu Temple, one passes through three bridges with wind-rain corridor style: Huyu Bridge, Huxi Bridge, and Huxiao Bridge, with flowing water, lush forests, and a very elegant and beautiful environment.
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The ancient temple of Fuhu has overlapping halls, skillfully forming a huge courtyard-style open-air space surrounded by green mountains and clear waters. The air circulates repeatedly in all seasons, forming a tornado-like wind that sweeps away debris, making it difficult even for birds and insects to find a foothold on the roofs, let alone tree leaves. Emperor Kangxi, upon hearing of this miraculous phenomenon, bestowed the title 'Ligou Yuan' (Garden Free from Filth) upon the millennia-old temple, an expression of reverence for this sacred Buddhist site of Mount Emei.
The three characters on the 'Ligou Yuan' plaque at Fuhu Temple were personally inscribed by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty when he visited. From Ligou Yuan, the rooftops around the courtyard are free of withered branches and leaves throughout the year, and the entire temple is spotless and dust-free, regarded as a miracle by the world, hence the name Ligou Yuan.
Fuhu Temple Fuhu Temple
Fuhu Temple is the largest nunnery on Mount Emei. These nuns are reciting sutras and performing their daily practices in the main hall.
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The Huayan Stupa at Fuhu Temple. This stupa was cast in the thirteenth year of Wanli of the Ming Dynasty. The Huayan Stupa is the temple treasure of Fuhu Temple and is considered the finest copper stupa in China. Such an exquisite and huge copper stupa was cast nearly 800 years ago, in a single casting without any seams. The stupa is octagonal, 5.8 meters tall, with thirteen tiers of pavilion-style copper. The base is a Sumeru throne, supporting a slender, domed stupa body 96 cm high. On the front is a gate with the inscription 'Namo Amitabha Huayan Stupa' in raised yang characters. On either side are couplets: 'May the imperial domain be consolidated, may the imperial path be prosperous, may the wind and rain be timely, may the country be peaceful and the people safe; may the Buddha's sun increase its radiance, may all beings in the dharma realm be reborn in the pure land.' Beside the couplets are cast gate-guarding deities. The other seven sides each have six rows of deities. Above, there are thirteen levels of octagonal double-eaved pavilions, each tier with Buddha statues, totaling over 4,700. Between the Buddha statues, the Huayan Sutra is cast. The finial is gourd-shaped. This stupa is exquisitely cast and has high artistic value.
Fuhu Temple Fuhu Temple Mount Emei
The area where our hotel was located is the Baoguo Temple Coach Center area. This large memorial archway bears the inscription 'Tianxia Mingshan' (Famous Mountain Under Heaven) by Guo Moruo on the front, and 'Fojiao Shengdi' (Buddhist Sacred Land) by Zhao Puchu on the reverse.
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In the evening, we randomly found a restaurant nearby and tasted the famous Sichuan dish 'Qiaojiao Niurou' (beef offal).
Day 2: Mount Emei
Today's itinerary was to go up the mountain. After breakfast, we walked to the Mount Emei Tourist Coach Center, took a sightseeing bus to Leidongping, and then took a cable car to the Golden Summit for sightseeing. We originally wanted to visit more spots, but in the afternoon, fog began to rise on Mount Emei. Calculating the time, just visiting the Golden Summit area took about 7 hours round trip, so we decided to go down directly and rest early. Accommodation: City Comfort Inn (Mount Emei Branch)
After breakfast, we walked to the Mount Emei Tourist Coach Center about 100 meters away, bought round-trip tickets for the sightseeing bus (90 yuan per person) and round-trip cable car tickets from Leidongping to the Golden Summit (120 yuan per person). Seniors over 60 were exempted from the mountain entrance fee with their ID cards. The tourist buses were said to depart every half hour, but in reality, they departed as soon as a bus was full, sometimes one after another.
Mount Emei - Leidongping
The bus traveled along the winding mountain road inside the Mount Emei scenic area for about two hours to reach Leidongping Station. Leidongping has an altitude of 2430 meters and is the only passage to the Golden Summit. There are many tourist hotels and inns at Leidongping, which is also the starting point for three different tourist bus routes.
Mount Emei - Leidongping
After getting off at Leidongping, we needed to walk about 1.5 kilometers along the mountain path to reach the Jieyin Temple cable car station. In late autumn, the climate on Mount Emei was pleasant, the air fresh, and the scenery very charming.
Mount Emei - Leidongping
Sedan chair bearers resting and soliciting customers by the roadside. Mount Emei sedan chairs are a means of transport for visitors. They not only reduce the fatigue of climbing but also add a beautiful sight to the immortal mountain. As the number of visitors to Mount Emei increases year by year, the sedan chair team emerged to meet demand. Now there is a sedan chair team of 1,000 people. They work in two shifts on odd and even days, wearing uniforms, managing by sections, with clear pricing, licensed operation, and civilized service. The sedan chairs have also been improved, changing from curved bamboo rafts to four-legged chair-type, which is both aesthetically pleasing and comfortable to sit or lie in.
Mount Emei - Leidongping Mount Emei - Leidongping
From Leidongping to the cable car station, we passed through the country's largest alpine rhododendron reserve, which is also a habitat for the famous Mount Emei monkeys. However, we didn't even see a single monkey hair that day.
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Arriving at Jieyin Temple, we reached the cable car station for the Golden Summit.
Mount Emei - Leidongping Golden Summit of Mount Emei
The day we arrived was not a holiday, but due to good weather, there were still quite many visitors. We waited in line at the cable car station for over 20 minutes before boarding.
We were really lucky. A few days before we came to Mount Emei, it had snowed heavily twice, leaving thick snow on the mountain. The day we climbed, the weather cleared up and the snow began to melt.
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Snowmen made from accumulated snow in the scenic area.
The mountain gate of the Golden Summit of Mount Emei.
The six-tusked white elephant is the mount of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva.
The Golden Summit of Mount Emei is the most concentrated area of temples and scenic spots on Mount Emei, gathering many famous sites and representing the essence of Mount Emei. It was listed as a national key Buddhist temple in 1983. Ascending the Golden Summit is the greatest wish of all visitors and pilgrims to Mount Emei to pay homage to Samantabhadra. Here, people can not only burn incense and worship Buddha, lingering in the divine world, but also appreciate the miraculous natural wonders: sunrise, sea of clouds, Buddha's halo, and sacred lamps.
Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei
In the past, the Golden Summit had a total of 548 halls and monastic quarters, capable of accommodating a thousand people for meals, making it the largest architectural complex on the whole mountain. However, it suffered severe damage during the ten years of turmoil. More seriously, a fire in April 1972 completely destroyed the Golden Summit and Huazang Temple. In 1986, the Sichuan Provincial Government allocated special funds for reconstruction. After four years of intense work, it was completed in 1989. The newly built Huazang Temple on the Golden Summit covers an area of over 1,690 square meters. The entire building consists of high, middle, and low levels connected together, including the Golden Hall (Samantabhadra Hall), Mahavira Hall, Maitreya Hall, Ancestral Hall, Abbot's Room, Zen Hall, and monastic quarters. The layout is reasonable, with red walls and yellow tiles, white marble railings, and marble floors, basically maintaining the original structure. The newly built Huazang Temple is majestic, magnificent, and stands proudly at the summit of Mount Emei at an altitude of 3,077 meters, adding more beauty to Mount Emei.
On the Golden Summit Square stands a splendid 48-meter-high (including the Dharma platform Sumeru throne) four-sided, ten-faced bronze statue of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva, worshipped by devout pilgrims, with strong incense and curling smoke.
We were truly fortunate. According to locals, the Golden Summit of Mount Emei has only about four or five sunny days per month on average, with the rest being overcast. We encountered a clear sunny day, with sunshine everywhere and a magnificent sea of clouds appearing midway up the mountain.
Samantabhadra Bodhisattva is one of the four great bodhisattvas in Chinese Buddhism, symbolizing principle and practice, corresponding to Manjusri Bodhisattva who symbolizes wisdom and rightness. They serve as the left and right attendants of Shakyamuni Buddha. In addition, Vairocana Tathagata, Manjusri Bodhisattva, and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva are revered as the 'Three Holy Ones of the Avatamsaka Sutra.' Samantabhadra Bodhisattva's mount is the six-tusked white elephant.
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Viewing the spectacular and beautiful sea of clouds at the Golden Summit.
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Huazang Temple at the Golden Summit is built along the mountain's contours, with three tiers of halls distributed from low to high on the central axis. The first hall is Maitreya Hall. The hall door displays a golden plaque inscribed by Zhao Puchu: 'Huazang Temple.'
The Mahavira Hall has a black-background gold-character plaque in the center, with plaques such as 'Yuanwang Shengdi,' 'Lingshan Yihui,' 'Yinse Shijie,' 'Fanyu Chongguang' on the sides. The hall enshrines a bronze golden-body Trikaya Buddha, seated three meters high. There are also bronze qing (chime), bronze bells, and other ritual instruments, as well as bronze statues and bronze Samantabhadra statues among Buddhist relics.
Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei
The Golden Summit is the highest hall on Mount Emei. It is also the Samantabhadra Hall, known as the Golden Hall. The hall door has plaques such as 'Golden Summit,' 'Xingyuan Wujin,' 'Puxian Yuanhai,' and 'Huazang Zhuangyan.'
Golden Summit of Mount Emei Golden Summit of Mount Emei
Inside the Samantabhadra Hall at the Golden Summit, a bronze statue of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva riding an elephant is enshrined. Samantabhadra Bodhisattva sits upright on a lotus platform, holding a ruyi scepter. The lotus platform rests on the elephant's back, and the white elephant steps on four lotus flowers. The entire statue is cast in bronze, with a total height of 4.5 meters.
The Golden Summit is not very large. Taking a leisurely tour including photo-taking takes about two hours.
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The national basic climate station on the summit of the Golden Summit.
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After touring the Golden Summit, we walked to the cable car station and took the cable car down to Leidongping. At Leidongping, besides the sightseeing buses returning the same way, there were also buses returning via Wannian Temple or Qingyin Pavilion. We felt that after seeing the Golden Summit, we had seen enough and were quite tired, so we decided to return to the hotel to rest.
Mount Emei - Leidongping Mount Emei
Spicy kidney flowers, blood curd, tofu pudding, and pork intestines—we enjoyed a hearty Sichuan meal.
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Day 3: Mount Emei -- Leshan -- Chengdu
Yesterday, we found that there was a bus No. 601 next to the hotel, with a fare of 5 yuan, which could go directly to the entrance of the Leshan Giant Buddha scenic area. We thought we might as well visit Leshan. In the morning, we took bus 601 directly to the entrance of the Eastern Buddha Land scenic spot in Leshan City, planning to first visit Eastern Buddha Land and then the Giant Buddha. Unexpectedly, after visiting Eastern Buddha Land and arriving at the Giant Buddha entrance, we were denied entry because we came from Guangzhou. Helpless, we decided to go directly to Chengdu. Accommodation: Minyoun Shangya Hotel
After breakfast, we took bus 601 right next to the hotel. The fare was 5 yuan, and after about an hour and a half, we arrived directly at the entrance of the Eastern Buddha Land scenic spot in Leshan City. We stored our luggage at the scenic area and began to visit.
Eastern Buddha Land is a national 4A-level tourist attraction. Together with the Leshan Giant Buddha, it is located on the Lingyun Nine Peaks in Leshan City, within the UNESCO 'dual heritage' site. It covers nearly a thousand mu of forest land, just a few hundred meters from the Leshan Giant Buddha, and is an extension of the Buddhist culture of the Leshan Giant Buddha tourist area. Eastern Buddha Land occupies four of the Lingyun Nine Peaks. The Lingyun Nine Peaks, during the Tang Dynasty, 'each peak had a temple' according to the 'Daxiangge Ji,' but were destroyed in the Yuan and Ming dynasties. Eastern Buddha Land sought the ruins of the ancients and aimed to restore the Tang Dynasty style. Construction began in 1989 and was completed in 1994. During the Tang Dynasty, each of the Lingyun Nine Peaks had a temple, but the temples on four peaks were destroyed during the war against the Yuan. Today, Eastern Buddha Land follows the historical sites to restore the old appearance, preserving the original mountain forest style of the Tang Dynasty, with buildings following the terrain, staggered heights, hidden thousand Buddhas in the forest, and hundred grottoes in caves.
The giant reclining Buddha statue, 170 meters long. The reclining Buddha takes the Dazu Rock Carvings as its prototype, using the natural mountain terrain. The southern end carves the head, the northern end carves the feet, and the middle retains the natural mountain vegetation, like a green quilt covering the peacefully serene nirvana of Shakyamuni Buddha. The Buddha's head is 24 meters long, 32.7 meters wide, the mouth is 4.5 meters wide, with 115 hair curls, each 1 meter in diameter, and the instep is 10.2 meters wide. Above the head, there are two dragons playing with a pearl. This Buddha's wisdom eyes are about to close, with a serene expression, lying on its side, evoking contemplation.
The head and chest of the giant reclining Buddha.
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Exquisite cliff carvings, a technique of directly carving Buddhas on the original cliff. With Buddhist scripture stories as the core and elements from different eras and cultures as components, they achieve the inheritance and innovation of ancient Buddhist sculpture art.
The underground palace of Buddhist art. Inside the cave, smoke curls, creating a magnificent atmosphere as if entering a fairyland. The underground palace is an important scenic spot in Eastern Buddha Land.
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The Ten Thousand Buddhas Cave is the core scenic spot of Eastern Buddha Land. The cave is excavated along the mountain, grand in scale. The Buddha statues inside are created on the original stone of the whole mountain using traditional techniques, vivid and lifelike. The Ten Thousand Buddhas Cave fills the gap of the Leshan Giant Buddha's lack of grottoes, containing bodhisattvas, arhats, and Buddha statues from all over the world. It can be called the fifth largest grotto group in China.
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The Demon-Subduing Pool, also known as Buddha Subduing Demons, depicts the story before Shakyamuni Buddha attained enlightenment. Mara the Evil One sent three demonesses to seduce him. The Buddha, with a mind free from desires, did not even glance sideways.
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After visiting Eastern Buddha Land, we cheerfully walked to the entrance of the Leshan Giant Buddha, a few hundred meters away, intending to revisit the Giant Buddha. Unexpectedly, at the Giant Buddha entrance, we were blocked from entering because we were tourists from Guangzhou. The reason given was that there was an epidemic in Guangzhou, and their superiors had issued a notice prohibiting entry for Guangzhou tourists, even with a green health code. We had been on Mount Emei just yesterday and had asked Dujiangyan, Sanxingdui, and other scenic spots; none had received any notice prohibiting Guangzhou tourists. It seemed that only the Leshan Giant Buddha had this local policy discriminating against Guangzhou people! It was very frustrating and chilled us to the bone!
Eastern Buddha Land Leshan
After being treated unfairly at the Leshan Giant Buddha, we lost interest in Leshan and decided to go directly to Chengdu. Unexpectedly, at the Leshan High-Speed Rail Station, all the dozens of bullet train tickets from 2:00 PM to 7:00 PM were sold out. Helpless, we went to the bus station not far from the high-speed rail station, bought bus tickets, and took a bus to Chengdu.
From Huayang Coach Center, we took the subway to our hotel. This five-star hotel had a great location and convenient transportation. We booked it in June, when the hotel industry had significantly reduced prices to attract customers due to the epidemic, so it was very cheap.
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Dinner: Mama's Pig Trotters, Spicy Kidney Flowers.
Day 4: Chengdu -- Dujiangyan -- Chengdu
After breakfast at the hotel, we took the subway to Kuanzhai Alley. At 10:40, we took the Chengdu scenic spot direct bus to visit Dujiangyan, then returned to Chengdu by bus at 16:30. Accommodation: Minyoun Shangya Hotel
The five-star hotel's buffet breakfast was quite abundant.
Chengdu Kuanzhai Alley
Chengdu's Kuanzhai Alley. We had been here once in May this year. Kuanzhai Alley consists of Kuan Alley, Zhai Alley, and Jing Alley arranged in parallel, all with black brick and tile pseudo-ancient courtyard houses. It is also a relatively well-preserved Qing Dynasty ancient street in Chengdu, and together with Daci Temple and Wenshu Monastery, it is one of the three famous historical and cultural preservation blocks in Chengdu. Kuanzhai Alley has successively won honors such as 2009 China Characteristic Commercial Pedestrian Street, Sichuan Historical and Cultural Street, 2011 Chengdu New Ten Scenic Spots, and one of Sichuan's Ten Most Beautiful Streets.
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After renovation, the overall spatial appearance of Kuanzhai Alley is relatively intact, continuing the layout of Kuanzhai Alley's Qing Dynasty Western Sichuan residential style. The streets, in form, belong to northern hutong alleyways, with the main feature being a fish-spine-shaped road pattern. This pattern facilitates self-management by the residents, establishing a quiet and leisurely lifestyle tone.
Kuanzhai Alley Kuanzhai Alley
Kuanzhai Alley is the best embodiment of the leisurely city life of Chengdu. From the Manchu city period when bannermen carried birdcages and tended flowers and plants, to the Republic of China period when dignitaries toasted and feasted, and now when literati and tourists sip tea and sit on bamboo chairs to savor life, Kuanzhai Alley has become a typical portrayal of the comfortable and leisurely life in Chengdu.
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A boiled pig's nose stuck with green onions, made to look like an elephant.
Kuanzhai Alley Kuanzhai Alley
Chengdu's Kuanzhai Alley is also a tourist distribution center. Every morning, there are tourist buses departing to various attractions around Chengdu. As long as you sign up online, you just need to arrive at the designated time ten minutes early on the day. It's very convenient. Today we took the bus from here to Dujiangyan.
Taking this Chengdu scenic spot direct bus, the round trip to Dujiangyan costs 58 yuan per person, which is quite convenient.
Dujiangyan is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, a World Natural Heritage site, a national key cultural relic protection unit, a national-level scenic spot, and a national 5A-level tourist attraction.
Dujiangyan Scenic Area Dujiangyan Scenic Area
Dujiangyan is located on the Min River in the western part of the Chengdu Plain. Construction began at the end of King Zhao of Qin's reign (approximately 256–251 BC). It is a large-scale water conservancy project organized and built by Li Bing, the governor of Shu commandery, and his son, based on the earlier excavation work of Bieling. It consists of the Fish Mouth Water-Dividing Dam, the Flying Sand Weir, and the Bottle-Neck Channel. For over two thousand years, it has played a role in flood control and irrigation, turning the Chengdu Plain into a 'Land of Abundance' where droughts and floods are controlled, and the fertile fields stretch for thousands of li. The irrigated area now covers more than 30 counties and cities, nearly ten million mu. It is the oldest and only surviving large-scale water conservancy project in the world featuring diversion without a dam, embodying the diligence, courage, and wisdom of ancient Chinese laborers.
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The Bottle-Neck Channel. Since gunpowder had not been invented during the time when Li Bing and his son built Dujiangyan, Li Bing used fire to heat the rocks and then water to crack them. They finally carved a mountain pass 20 meters wide, 40 meters high, and 80 meters long through Mount Yulei. Because its shape resembles a bottle neck, it was named Bottle-Neck Channel. The rock pile separated from Mount Yulei was called Lidu (Separated Mound).
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The Fish Mouth Water-Dividing Dam. To allow the Min River water to flow east smoothly while maintaining a certain flow and to fully utilize the flood diversion and irrigation functions of the Bottle-Neck Channel, the builder Li Bing, after completing the Bottle-Neck Channel, decided to build a water-dividing dam in the middle of the Min River, splitting the river into two branches: one flowing down the main river, and the other forced into the Bottle-Neck Channel. Because the front end of the water-dividing dam resembles a fish's head, it is called the Fish Mouth. The completion of the Fish Mouth divides the upstream rushing river into two: the western side is called the Outer River, flowing down the Min River; the eastern side is called the Inner River, flowing into the Bottle-Neck Channel. Since the Inner River is narrow and deep, and the Outer River is wide and shallow, during the dry season when the water level is low, 60% of the water flows into the lower Inner River, ensuring production and domestic water for the Chengdu Plain. When floods come, with a higher water level, most of the water is discharged through the wider Outer River. This automatic distribution of water between the inner and outer rivers is the so-called 'four-six water division.'
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The Anlan Chain Bridge, also known as the Anlan Bridge or the Couple's Bridge, is located above the Fish Mouth of Dujiangyan, spanning both the inner and outer rivers. It is known as one of the five great ancient bridges in China and is the most characteristic landscape of Dujiangyan. It was built before the Song Dynasty and was destroyed by war at the end of the Ming Dynasty (17th century). Its ancient name was Zhupu Bridge. In the first year of the Chunhua era of the Song Dynasty, it was renamed Pingshi Bridge. In the Jiaqing era of the Qing Dynasty, a new bridge was built and renamed Anlan Bridge. The original suspension bridge used wooden raft stone piers, with thick bamboo cables crossing the river, wooden planks as the bridge deck, and bamboo cables as railings. Now the bridge has steel cable concrete piles.
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Jinli was one of the oldest and most commercial streets in the history of Western Shu, famous nationwide as early as the Qin and Han dynasties and the Three Kingdoms period. Today's Jinli, relying on Chengdu's Wuhou Temple, takes the spirit of the Qin, Han, and Three Kingdoms as its soul, Ming and Qing styles as its appearance, and Western Sichuan folk customs as its content, expanding the extension of Three Kingdoms culture. On this street, the essence of Chengdu life is condensed: tea houses, inns, restaurants, bars, stages, local snacks, handicrafts, and local products, fully showcasing the unique charm of Three Kingdoms culture and Sichuan folk customs. Relying on Wuhou Temple, 'Worship Wuhou, soak in Jinli' has become one of the most attractive slogans for Chengdu tourism.
In the night of Jinli, colorful lights were on, people were bustling, and it was very lively.
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Hotpot is a representative symbol of Chengdu's dining culture and is a favorite of Chengdu people. At night, the streets are filled with the rich aroma of Sichuan hotpot. We visited five or six hotpot restaurants in a row, all full, requiring waiting in line. Finally, we found a hotpot restaurant called 'Shuai Ye' that did not require waiting in line, and we had hotpot.
Day 5: Chengdu -- Sanxingdui -- Chengdu
Today, we again went to Kuanzhai Alley. At 10:40, we took the Chengdu scenic spot direct bus to visit the Guanghan Sanxingdui Museum, then returned to Chengdu by bus at 15:30. Accommodation: Jinjiang Hotel
After staying two nights at 'Minyoun Shangya,' we checked out after breakfast and moved to the Jinjiang Hotel, just across the river.
We checked into the VIP building of the Jinjiang Hotel. This is one of the best five-star hotels in Chengdu. The hotel was excellent, allowing us to check into our room at 9:00 AM. We also booked this hotel in advance in June, at a very favorable price. The package included two nights, two buffet breakfasts, and one buffet dinner.
Chengdu Kuanzhai Alley
After storing our luggage, we took the subway again to Kuanzhai Alley and took the bus from there to visit the Guanghan Sanxingdui Museum.
This tourist bus goes to the Sanxingdui Museum entrance. The round-trip ticket is 66 yuan per person. It departs from Kuanzhai Alley at 10:40 AM. After arriving at the Sanxingdui Museum, visitors are free to explore. The bus returns at 3:30 PM.
Sanxingdui Museum
It took about an hour's drive from Chengdu to reach the Sanxingdui Museum. The Sanxingdui Museum is located at the northeastern corner of the Sanxingdui site, a national key cultural relic protection unit. It is situated on the banks of the Yazi River in the western part of Guanghan, a famous historical and cultural city, 40 kilometers south of Chengdu and 26 kilometers north of Deyang. It is a modern thematic site museum in China. The museum was founded in August 1992 and opened in October 1997. The Sanxingdui Museum covers an area of about 530 mu.
Sanxingdui Museum
With its four major features—artifacts, architecture, exhibition, and garden—the Sanxingdui Museum has become a world-renowned cultural relic tourist destination. It is one of the five major tourist attractions in Sichuan, a first batch national 4A-level tourist attraction, and a national first-class museum. The main building of the Sanxingdui Museum seeks to combine the charm of the landform, historical relics, and artifact sculptural art, integrating primitive meaning with modern flavor. The outdoor environment is ingeniously arranged, with green lawns, lake views, and island reflections, fully embodying the museum's characteristic of combining with a garden.
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The ancient Sanxingdui site dates back 5,000 to 3,000 years. It is the largest, longest-lasting, and most culturally rich ancient city, ancient state, and ancient Shu cultural site ever discovered in the southwestern region. The best-preserved eastern, western, and southern city walls and the inner wall of Yueliangwan remain. The Sanxingdui site is known as one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the 20th century, showing that the Yangtze River basin, like the Yellow River basin, is a mother of Chinese civilization, known as the source of the Yangtze civilization. The artifacts unearthed there are precious human cultural heritage and are among the groups of artifacts in China with the highest historical, scientific, cultural, and artistic value and the most ornamental value.
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The 2.62-meter-tall bronze standing figure, weighing over 180 kilograms, wears a tall beast-face crown and three layers of clothing. The outermost garment resembles a 'tailcoat.' The arms are raised horizontally, with hands in the gesture of holding an offering for sacrifice.
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The large size, vivid shapes, and complex structures are important features of Sanxingdui bronzes. The bronze sacred tree is 384 centimeters tall, with nine branches. On the branches, birds perch; beneath the branches, fruits hang. A dragon descends from beside the tree, very vivid and mysterious, concretely reflecting the ancient mythical story of the Fusang tree.
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The large bronze beast mask is 138 centimeters wide and weighs over 80 kilograms. The shape is extremely exaggerated, with a square face that looks neither human nor beast, large ear-shaped horns protruding, and long eyeballs bulging outward. The countenance is fierce and grotesque, making it a masterpiece of bronze art.
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Among the many bronze human face masks, there are three famous 'thousand-mile eyes and wind-following ears' designs. They are not only huge in size but also have eyes that obviously protrude from the sockets, ears extremely exaggerated like beast ears, and large mouths that extend to the ears, evoking an indescribable astonishment and wonder. Their three-layered lips with upturned corners in a smile give a sense of mystery and intimacy.
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The Sanxingdui bronzes are characterized by a large number of figures, birds, beasts, insects, snakes, and plants. Bronze human head statues, face statues, and masks represent the ancestral spirits being worshipped. Bronze standing figures and kneeling figures represent the prayer leaders and hosts of the sacrifice. The protruding bronze beast masks and flat bronze beast faces may represent natural deities worshipped by the Shu people. The bronze sacred tree, with plant shapes, reflects the religious consciousness of plant worship among the Shu people. The religious concept centered on ancestor worship and worship of natural deities like animals and plants was the main spiritual world of the early Shu people.
