Elegance Seeking to Escape Nature—Chengdu and Chongqing
8 days, per person cost: 3000 yuan. Travel time: early June. Departure: Hohhot, Inner Mongolia
My strongest feeling about Chengdu is its leisureliness. Therefore, the best way to travel in Chengdu is to wander freely. Chengdu's metro is well-developed and can easily meet your needs to go wherever you want. When you're tired, find a park, order a bowl of tea, and enjoy the shade of green trees—it's truly comfortable. Parks are everywhere in Chengdu, almost every street and every intersection has a park of varying sizes, and each park has a tea house with affordable prices. Compared to Chengdu, Chongqing feels more lively, hotter, and more crowded. Chengdu has an imperial air, while Chongqing has a more down-to-earth, folk feel. Travel isn't about visiting all the famous attractions, but about finding your own way and having fun. (Note: Due to my phone being stolen, I managed to retrieve some travel photos, but they are blurry—please understand.)
I. Recommended Itinerary for This Trip:
1. Attractions:
Sichuan:
(1) Du Fu Thatched Cottage and Huanhuaxi Park: Experience the poet-sage's poetic feelings for family and country.
(2) Red walls (Du Fu Thatched Cottage, Wuhou Shrine, Wenshu Monastery)—wearing all black, all white, or small floral prints looks great and makes for stunning photos.
(3) Dujiangyan: Appreciate the wisdom of the ancients.
(4) Leshan Giant Buddha: Sacred and awe-inspiring.
Chongqing:
Top recommendation: "Huashengyuan Golden Cake Kingdom"—suitable for girls and children. Rent a princess dress and take beautiful photos; it fulfills a girl's princess dreams. Hongya Cave's night scenery is beautiful—a must-see. Zhongshuge, the Sichuan Fine Arts Institute graffiti wall, Liziba—it depends on personal preference. Chongqing's attractions are like this: you see beautiful photos from others, you go to see them, and your own photos turn out nice too, but the direct visual experience is ordinary.
2. Cuisine:
Chengdu:
(1) Papa's Steak Hotpot (Dad's Stir-fry Steak Old Hotpot) (variety of fresh ingredients, amazing desserts)
(2) Dongzikou Zhang Erliang Cold Noodles (the sweet water noodles are delicious)
(3) Palace Pastry Shop (rich variety of pastries, delicious and cheap)
Leshan:
(1) Fangfang Qiaojiao Beef (the soup is really good)
(2) Chuanmei Ice Jelly (the best ice jelly of the whole trip)
(3) Wang Duck - Sweet Skin Duck (authentic; locals basically all buy from his shop)
(4) Li Laosan Fried Skewers (oily but not greasy, paired with egg fried rice—hard to stop eating; beef, corn kernels, and cartilage are favorites)
Chongqing:
(1) Dayang Department Store (the reason for recommending this mall is that many popular night market snacks are sold here, and usually long queues are involved; since it's a common transfer point for attractions, don't rush away—if you're hungry, definitely come here for snacks. Recommend "Yogurt Cow"'s "Fruit Duo" series; all kinds of wontons at Wu Chaosong are delicious; the large sweet potato skin and tofu skin here can be stuffed with various fillings)
(2) Zhen Ji Black and White Meat Tofu Hotpot (the pot is clear broth, with various dipping sauces; sauces are spicy—you can dip or not; friendly for those who can't eat spicy; flavor is light; I quite like it)
(3) Hu Ji Pig Trotter Soup (delicious)
(4) Shancheng Old Hall (Sichuan cuisine; not sure if authentic, but I think it's very tasty). Actually, authenticity doesn't matter, and there's no need to insist on finding those super authentic, remote little eateries recommended by locals, because as an outsider you might not be used to the taste, and Chongqing's roads make it possible to wander for one or two hours without finding the place. There's no need to regret not eating the most authentic version—if you like the place, you can come again next time.
3. Accommodation Recommendations:
Chengdu: Near Thatched Cottage (Jinjiang Inn Caotang Branch is the best Jinjiang Inn I've ever stayed in; highly recommend both environment and location)
Leshan: Near Jiaxiang Road (food street)
Chongqing: Near Jiefangbei (convenient for travel and dining)
4. For sightseeing, it's recommended to buy tickets on Ctrip one day in advance. Then you can enter the scenic area directly with your ID card the next day, avoiding the trouble of queuing to buy tickets. Scenic spots in Sichuan and Chongqing have tickets available on Ctrip.
5. In Chengdu, the main modes of transportation are the metro and shared bikes. In Chongqing, rely on walking; if you really can't find your way, call a Didi, but don't take taxis.
II. Itinerary
Day 1 (June 6)
Morning: Fly to Chengdu, arriving at 10:00 am. Then take the metro to the hotel, check into Jinjiang Inn (Chengdu Du Fu Thatched Cottage Branch). Highly recommend this hotel. Although it's a bit far from Du Fu Thatched Cottage, it's very close to the metro line, making travel convenient. Nearby there are fruit shops and Chengdu's chain supermarket Hongqi Convenience Store, so shopping is easy. The hotel is in a quiet alley within a large courtyard, very quiet, good environment, and clean.
Lunch: Eat at "Papa's Steak Hotpot (Caotang Branch)" (a local classmate took us to an authentic Sichuan hotpot). Personally, I think this was the best hotpot of the whole trip. The dishes are comprehensive, especially the desserts—amazing. And the best part: no queuing!
(Papa's Steak dessert: Ice Tangyuan, extremely delicious)
After lunch, walk to "Du Fu Thatched Cottage" (ticket 50 yuan). The thatched cottage is a scenic spot with both natural and cultural beauty, especially the red wall—it's stunning. Unlike other red walls, the one at the thatched cottage is relatively low, echoing the dense bamboo groves behind, creating a refreshing and joyful feeling. The red wall is inside "Flower Path", a bit off the main path. If you can't find it, ask the staff—don't miss it!
(Scenery inside the thatched cottage)
(Du Fu's Thousand Poem Stele)
(Ancient book restoration)
(Photo at the thatched cottage red wall)
Exit the thatched cottage and head to Huanhuaxi Park. Huanhuaxi Park is right next to Du Fu Thatched Cottage, with many attractions. Top recommendation: "Poetry Avenue"—a must for Chinese literature students.
(Covered bowl tea at Huanhuaxi Park)
Evening: Go to "Kuanzhai Alley" for dinner. Personally, I think Kuanzhai Alley is not worth visiting. The snacks sold there are the same as everywhere else in China, with high prices and poor taste—especially the ice jelly, which was simply inedible. So if your schedule is tight, you can skip it. Jinli is also an old street in Chengdu, and it's much better than Kuanzhai Alley in terms of items, food, and scenery.
(Photo at Kuanzhai Alley)
Day 2 (June 7)
Morning: Breakfast at a nearby noodle shop. Chengdu's wontons, chicken-gizzard noodles, and spread noodles are all delicious; any small shop does them well.
Then take the high-speed train to Dujiangyan (buy tickets to "Li Dui Park Station", which is very close to the scenic area; you can walk, take a bus, or use a shared bike to get there. Don't take unlicensed taxis—it's very close.) Qingcheng Mountain and Dujiangyan are together. If you like hiking, I suggest spending a day. My husband and I don't like hiking, so we went directly to Dujiangyan. It is recommended to hire a guide at Dujiangyan; otherwise, you might wander around not knowing where the "fish mouth" and "fish tail" are. There are sightseeing cars inside; if the weather is not hot, I suggest walking. The scenic area is not large, with an excellent environment and dense bamboo groves—great for photos.
(Dujiangyan scenic area)
Afternoon: Take the high-speed train back to Chengdu and have dinner at "Taolin" restaurant. This restaurant is very popular online. Personally, I found it average. Overall, the dishes are heavy on oil and spice; those who prefer lighter flavors may find it too much.
(Taolin: Stir-fried frog with young ginger)
Evening: Stroll around Taikoo Li. Taikoo Li mainly sells luxury goods and some gourmet food. Chengdu is a base for internet influencers, and Taikoo Li can be said to be the main battleground. I'm not particularly interested in that, so I didn't find Taikoo Li very interesting.
Day 3 (June 8)
Early morning: Take a Didi to "Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding". Tickets were purchased from Ctrip in advance; enter directly with ID card, no need to pick up tickets. The scenic area opens at 7:30 am, but you must go early! Must go early! Must go early! Also note the weather: if it rains or the temperature is too high, the panda cubs won't be let out, so it's also a matter of luck. Go there and queue to enter; if you go late, the panda cubs will be taken inside, or even if not, there will be a crowd in front of you and you'll hardly see anything. Also, by 10 am, the pandas are all sleeping, motionless. There are many spots inside; the Moon Nursery is the most interesting—they put some panda cubs there. The cubs are usually let out around 8 am, so if you arrive early, wait around the Moon Nursery. If lucky, you can see panda cubs fighting, climbing trees, eating bamboo—very interesting. There are also red pandas, some free-range and some in enclosures; you can interact with them.
(Moon Nursery)
After visiting the panda base (around 10:30 am), return to the city. Since we thought "Papa's Steak" on the first day was so good, we went again to "Houtang Old Hotpot". Their hotpot base options are diverse; the pickled vegetable and tofu base is good and friendly to non-spicy eaters, but the dishes and desserts are significantly fewer than "Papa's Steak".
(Houtang Old Hotpot)
Afternoon: Go to Wuhou Shrine. Personally, I'm not interested in the Three Kingdoms, and I had already been there before, so I didn't go inside. Outside Wuhou Shrine, there is a very long red wall—haha, I came here to take photos.
After taking photos, wait until dusk when the lights come on, then go to Jinli to experience Chengdu's nightlife.
Day 4 (June 9)
This day it drizzled in Chengdu—cool but not cold. Morning: Go to Wenshu Monastery. Near Wenshu Monastery, there is a commercial street with a typical southern street feel: clean paths and shady green trees.
(Wenshu Monastery commercial street)
The most popular snack on the commercial street is "Dongzikou Zhang Erliang Cold Noodles". Their "sweet water noodles" are delicious, but it varies by person—the noodles are slightly sweet; those who don't like sweets may find them ordinary. Also, Chengdu's famous "Palace Pastry Shop" (Wenshu Monastery branch is the flagship store) has many types of pastries and they are cheap. You can bring some for relatives and friends; there is a courier point nearby to send them directly. My favorites are butterfly cookies and egg yolk crispy rice.
The red wall at Wenshu Monastery is also a must-visit spot. The red wall at Wenshu is similar to the one at Wuhou Shrine, but Wenshu's red wall is more worthwhile to visit because it has "blessings". If you are not interested in the Three Kingdoms, you can come directly here and skip Wuhou Shrine.
(Wenshu Monastery red wall)
Afternoon: Visit the "Chengdu Shu Brocade and Embroidery Museum" (relatively close to where we stayed; stumbled upon it while wandering, but thought it was worth it). Inside, they sell some Shu embroidery and Shu brocade; if you like, you can buy them—prices vary. There are also docents who explain the process of making Shu embroidery and brocade.
(Chengdu Shu Brocade and Embroidery Museum)
Afternoon: Take the high-speed train to Leshan. Leshan has an abundance of delicious food. First meal: Qiaojiao beef. Went to "Fangfang Qiaojiao Beef" (Jiaxiang Road branch; Jiaxiang Road is a street with various snacks—Chuanmei Ice Jelly, Bòbò Chicken are all there; you can find them along the street. It's recommended to choose accommodation here.) This restaurant is popular online, but reviews are mixed. I thought it was good; the soup is light but not bland, the meat quality is good, but the blood curd is average—not as good as the freshly cooked one in hotpot. Bobo chicken is also very popular, but I can't eat spicy food, so I didn't try it. "Chuanmei Ice Jelly" was the best ice jelly I had on this trip, especially the "three-ingredient ice jelly"—it looks light but tastes excellent.
(Qiaojiao beef)
Day 5 (June 10)
Morning: Take a Didi to Leshan Scenic Area. First, buy a boat ticket to view the giant Buddha from afar, then enter the scenic area to tour (the general route is north entrance to east exit, because Buddhism advocates not going back on the same path. However, to exit from the east gate, you need to buy a ticket for another attraction inside—"Oriental Buddha Capital", which has the world's largest reclining Buddha and Guanyin Cave, but you need a guide; otherwise, you'll walk around and feel it's boring.) Leshan Scenic Area takes about half a day to visit. Inside, there are temples, as well as "Dongpo Tower" and "Su Garden" related to Su Shi.
(Dongpo Tower, with Su Shi's poems)
After exiting from the east gate, take a Didi back to the hotel. The Didi driver was very enthusiastic; he took us to buy Leshan's most authentic "Sweet Skin Duck"—"Wang Duck - Sweet Skin Duck". It has a slight sweetness and is really delicious. Following the driver's recommendation, we went to "Li Laosan Fried Skewers", which locals favor. It's very popular; during peak season, the queue stretches the whole street. (Corn kernels, beef skewers, and cartilage are the best)
(Li Laosan Fried Skewers)
(Wang Duck - Sweet Skin Duck)
Afternoon: Take the high-speed train to Chongqing. Arrived in Chongqing rather late, stayed near Jiefangbei. This area is a commercial street, convenient for eating and drinking, and close to the metro.
Day 6 (June 11)
Morning: Take the light rail to the famous Zhongshuge (Harry Potter Bookstore). Many people there, all taking photos.
Noon: Go to nearby "Zhen Ji Black and White Meat Tofu Hotpot". Ordered the "cured pork rib pot". The pot comes in small and large sizes; groups of five or more need a large pot. You can also add more tofu, vegetables, and staples (these are self-service, 6 yuan per person additional). The pot is light; those who cannot handle spicy food can try it—it tastes good. Using tofu soup with some tofu and rice makes an excellent combination.
(Black and White Meat Tofu)
Afternoon: Visit Liziba to see Chongqing's most famous light rail.
Then go to Dayang Department Store to eat sweet potato skin and tofu skin, wontons, and "A Yogurt Cow" (reviews vary; I still think it's good, but you need to order the right thing. The "Signature Purple Rice" series is honestly average; the best are the "Fruit Duo" series, especially the "Passionfruit Pineapple Yogurt Duo"—it's so good you want a second cup after finishing one). The sweet potato skin and tofu skin are also delicious, large, and can be stuffed with various things like pork tenderloin and bacon. "Wu Chaosong" has many types of wontons, all tasty.
(A Yogurt Cow)
Evening: Go to Hongya Cave. Hongya Cave is a free scenic area; you can enter by scanning a QR code. Any charging projects are scams. Walking inside, you get a feeling of "you are viewing the scenery from the bridge, and someone below is viewing you", because the night view of Hongya Cave is best seen from the opposite street outside. Inside, there are various snacks (don't buy them—they're terrible), restaurants, and some trinkets.
Day 7 (June 12)
Morning: Breakfast near the hotel. Then take the metro to the Sichuan Fine Arts Institute graffiti wall. The most distinctive ones are "This is Chongqing" (in Chinese) and "I love Chongqing".
Noon: Go to "Hu Ji Pig Trotter Soup" for lunch. It's very popular; better not to come during peak hours—come a bit earlier, otherwise the queue will be long. One serving of pig trotter soup contains a whole trotter and soft-cooked peas. The trotter soup is really fresh and delicious, but their rice is poor—order less rice and drink more soup.
Afternoon: I went to what I think is Chongqing's most worthwhile attraction: "Huashengyuan Golden Cake Kingdom". There are castles of various sizes. Whether for taking photos or for the experience, you should rent a princess dress to feel like you're really walking in the castle as a princess. I think this is every girl's dream. Enter the scenic area and walk along the path; about 100 meters in, there is a costume rental shop—the first one in the area. Remember to rent from this shop: their costumes are clean and varied. It's 50 yuan per outfit, unlimited time, and includes matching headwear, but not makeup or photography. So do your own makeup. Further inside, there are shops that rent costumes plus take photos, but it's a bit of a rip-off—the photos aren't good, and once they take them, whether you want them or not, you have to pay. So if your companion's photography skills are okay, it's better to take photos for each other.
(Huashengyuan Golden Cake Kingdom)
Evening: Go to "Nine Village Grilled Brain" near Jiefangbei for barbecue. Try "Ba Ba Shao" (corn kernels, beef, small chicken gizzards are good; chicken skin is a bit dry). "Grilled brain" is their signature—heavy oil and spicy; those who like strong flavors will enjoy it. Others depend on personal preference. This is a chain restaurant, quite popular. Personally, I found the taste decent but not amazing, and the price is not low. This branch of Jiefangbei is in a night market area, so I don't recommend ordering too much; leave some room to try other things. But I didn't buy anything else, because as mentioned earlier, Dayang Department Store has almost all the famous items here, and it's not worth queuing so long again.
Day 8 (June 13)
Because the previous day was tiring, I slept in today. Then went to "Shancheng Old Hall" (Jiefangbei Hongya Cave branch) to eat Sichuan cuisine. Mapo tofu, kung pao chicken, yellow flower crispy pork soup, and ant-climbing-tree are all good. Top recommendation: mapo tofu, since we're in Chongqing. The environment is clean and elegant; the prices are relatively high for Chongqing, because Chongqing itself has relatively low prices. After lunch, wandered around the nearby malls. There are malls everywhere near Jiefangbei. Nearby there is a Cute Pet Zoo (can't remember the exact name, but it has "Cute Pet" in it); it's a place to pet rabbits—all kinds of rabbits, big and small; you can feed them and interact with them.
(Cute Pet Zoo)
Afternoon: Take the plane back to Hohhot. Trip ends~
Throughout this trip, I prefer Chengdu. After going to Chengdu, you can truly understand the meaning of "Don't enter Sichuan when young, don't leave Shu when old." I really didn't want to leave. From the climate, to the environment, to the cultural atmosphere, to the pace of life, Chengdu is a city that gathers countless advantages.