Into the Snowy Plateau: A 22-Day Trip to Tibet

📍 Chengdu · 👁 2708 reads · ❤️ 3 likes

Tibet had long been a place I yearned to visit, but concerns about adapting to the high altitude prevented me from going. It wasn't until last year that I finally decided to go in October, but the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic hindered the trip, causing me to miss the best time for traveling to Tibet. This year, with the adjustment of epidemic prevention and control policies across various regions, travel has become much smoother. After the first lunar month, as the weather gradually warmed, we set off for the snowy plateau under the blue sky and white clouds. Since we couldn't find a direct flight from Tianjin to Lhasa, we chose to transfer through Chengdu and spend a few days there.

Expenses (for 2 people) totaled 27,573.01 yuan, including:

- Transportation (including chartered car fee of 8,600.00 yuan): 16,043.00 yuan

- Accommodation: 4,116.13 yuan

- Tickets (including scenic area sightseeing cars, etc.): 1,638.00 yuan

- Shopping, meals, local transportation, and miscellaneous: 5,775.88 yuan

We took the 9:30 flight in the morning and arrived at Chengdu Shuangliu Airport at noon. Since we had already booked a flight to Lhasa for the next morning, we chose to stay at a hotel near the airport for convenience. After checking into the hotel, we decided to spend the afternoon visiting Wenshu Monastery in the city center. We took the metro from Shuangliu Square to Wenshu Monastery Station, and after exiting, it was a short walk to the monastery gate.

Wenshu Monastery is located in Qingyang District, Chengdu, covering an area of over 200,000 square meters. It was first built during the Daye period of the Sui Dynasty (605-617) and was originally named Xinsiang Temple. In the fifth year of Huichang (845), Emperor Wuzong of Tang suppressed Buddhism, and the temple was destroyed. In the 36th year of Kangxi (1697), funds were raised to rebuild the temple, and it was renamed Wenshu Monastery. Emperor Kangxi personally wrote the characters "空林" (Kong Lin) and bestowed a seal with the inscription "敕赐空林" (Imperially Bestowed Kong Lin). Kangxi's calligraphy is still preserved in the monastery. Wenshu Monastery is one of the key Buddhist temples in the Chinese language system designated by the State Council and is the foremost of the four great Chan monasteries along the upper and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. It is a Buddhist holy place integrating Chan forest relics, ancient gardens, pilgrimage, and religious study. The existing architecture of Wenshu Monastery is in typical western Sichuan plain ancient architectural style, all made of wood. Six main halls are arranged in sequence along the central axis facing the mountain gate, grand and majestic.

It was the start of the school season, and many students came to Wenshu Monastery to pay homage to Manjushri Bodhisattva, making the usually quiet monastery much livelier.

Visiting Wenshu Monastery is not only about experiencing the rich history and culture but also about food. There are many Chengdu delicacies around the monastery. After visiting, we had dinner on the commercial street in front of the gate and then returned to the hotel to rest.

At the break of dawn, we arrived at the airport. The plane took off at 6 a.m. sharp. Entering Tibet, as the sun rose, we could see endless snow-capped mountains bathed in the morning glow, appearing desolate and mysterious.

[Chengdu-Lhasa en route]

The plane landed at Lhasa Gonggar Airport a little after 9 a.m. Considering the high altitude of Lhasa, we chose to first visit the Nyingchi region, which has a relatively lower altitude, and return to Lhasa after our bodies had acclimatized. From Gonggar Airport, we took a bus to Lhasa Railway Station, then transferred to a bullet train to Nyingchi.

Along the way from Lhasa to Nyingchi, the beautiful scenery of the plateau unfolded before our eyes.

[Lhasa-Nyingchi en route]

There is a two-hour time difference between Tibet and inland China. It was nearly 6 p.m. when we arrived in Nyingchi, but the sun hadn't set yet. The hotel we booked was near the bus station in the city center. Nyingchi Railway Station is over 20 kilometers from the city center. After exiting the station, we took a minibus, which took over half an hour to reach Nyingchi city.

After two days of travel, we arrived on the plateau. Today, we planned to visit the Cuomu Jiri Scenic Area not far from the city. After booking tickets online, we took a taxi to the scenic area. At the entrance, we were told that due to icy roads on the mountain, the scenic area was closed that day, so we had to return the same way.

New to the plateau, we arranged a relaxed schedule to acclimatize. Since we couldn't visit Cuomu Jiri, we didn't plan any other attractions for the day and instead took a stroll along the Nyang River near the hotel.

The Nyang River originates on the western side of Mila Mountain, with a total length of 307.5 kilometers and a drop of 2,273 meters. Flowing from west to east, it is one of the five major tributaries of the Yarlung Zangbo River. The Nyang River has clear water, and the forest vegetation along its banks is well-preserved. It is the "mother river" of the Gongbo people.

The Nyang River is mainly fed by snowmelt from the mountains. The river should be quite beautiful in summer. Unfortunately, we came during the dry season, when large patches of gravel were exposed in the riverbed. Small streams of water flowed slowly among the gravel, dotted with a few puddles. Distant snow-capped mountains appeared and disappeared in the mist.

After playing by the Nyang River for a while, on the way back to the hotel, we discussed car rental with a company we had learned about the previous night and arranged a chartered car. Then we returned to the hotel to rest.

Today officially began our itinerary on the plateau. Our first destination was Basong Tso. At 9 a.m., our driver, Mr. Xiang, picked us up at the hotel.

As we drove out of Nyingchi city, about an hour later, it suddenly started snowing. We thought we would encounter bad weather, but Mr. Xiang said that weather on the plateau changes quickly and that the snow might stop soon. After another hour of driving along the mountain road, the snow indeed stopped when we reached the scenic area.

Basong Tso, also known as Cuogao Lake, means "green water" in Tibetan. It is located in a deep gorge in the upper reaches of the Ba River, over 50 kilometers from Gongbo'gyamda County in Nyingchi. The lake is at an altitude of over 3,700 meters and is a famous sacred lake and holy site of the Red Sect (Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism). The scenic area integrates snow-capped mountains, lakes, forests, waterfalls, pastures, cultural relics, and ancient temples, with varying scenery in different seasons and a variety of rare wild plants. It is truly a paradise on earth, known as "Little Switzerland."

Mr. Xiang dropped us off at the entrance and gave us some tips for activities on the plateau, telling us to take our time and not rush. He said he would wait for us at the gate.

We took the scenic area's sightseeing bus into the area and first arrived at the island in the lake.

The island in the lake is called Zhaxi Island, about 100 meters from the shore, connected by a boardwalk. Legend has it that the island is a "hollow island," meaning it is not connected to the lakebed but floats on the water. On the island is a Tang Dynasty structure, "Cuozong Gongba Temple," a famous Nyingma temple of the Red Sect, built at the end of the Tang Dynasty, over 1,500 years ago. Cuozong Temple is a two-story earth-wood structure. The main hall enshrines Padmasambhava, Thousand-Armed Guanyin, and the Golden Boy and Jade Girl.

The island in the lake is not large, and it takes about half an hour to walk around it along the path. From the island, visitors can take a boat tour of Basong Tso or walk along the lakeside boardwalk. Most tourists choose the boat tour or only walk a short section of the boardwalk before returning. We chose to walk along the boardwalk.

Basong Tso's water is crystal clear, reflecting the surrounding snow-capped mountains. At noon, the sun came out, shining on the snowy mountains, making the white snow glisten.

We walked slowly, enjoying the scenery, until we reached the end of the boardwalk and then turned back. Returning to the sightseeing bus stop, we continued by bus to the viewing platform. After climbing a flight of steps, we could overlook the beautiful scenery of Basong Tso and the island in the lake.

From the viewing platform, we took the sightseeing bus back to the main entrance.

It was still early after visiting Basong Tso, so we decided to visit Kading Valley on the way back. Along the return route, we passed by Xiuba Ancient Forts and decided to stop and take a look.

Xiuba Ancient Forts are located in Xiuba Village, Bahe Town, Gongbo'gyamda County. Also known as "Rong Forts," they are beacon towers, an ancient military castle built along the mountain. Originally built in the late Tang Dynasty, they have a history of over 1,600 years. They are the oldest, most historically significant, densest, and best-preserved ancient forts in Tibet. Now, with the passage of time, Xiuba Ancient Forts have been abandoned and are a relic.

The Xiuba Ancient Forts consist of five forts of varying heights, spaced about 30 to 50 meters apart. Each fort echoes and supports the others. Incredibly, the entire fort is built from slabs and wooden planks, hollow inside with no roof. Externally, they appear as 12-sided prisms, while inside they are regular octagons. Despite millennia of wind and rain, the forts remain towering and sturdy, showcasing the exquisite architectural skills of the Tibetan people over a thousand years ago.

After spending about half an hour visiting the forts, we continued to Kading Valley.

Kading Valley Scenic Area, also known as Kading Tianfo Waterfall Forest Scenic Area, is located on National Highway 318, 24 kilometers from Bayi Town, along the Nyang River. Inside the valley, ancient trees reach the sky, streams babble, and the environment is fresh and beautiful. The cliffs on both sides have奇特 shapes, including large Buddha and animal forms. The main attraction is the Tianfo Waterfall, which plunges nearly 200 meters, like a silver chain hanging on the cliff, magnificent. In the waterfall, a naturally formed Buddha appears kind and sometimes hidden, hence the name Tianfo Waterfall. When the water flow is small, it falls gracefully like a silver chain; when large, it is powerful and breathtaking. On the rock wall behind the waterfall, there are naturally formed Buddha images, said to be the protector gods of the Tibetan compatriots in Nyingchi. The images are clear, as if carved by hand. On either side of the Buddha are male and female protectors, each with solemn and lifelike expressions. The female protector on the right, Bandan Lhamo, is over 100 meters high, vaguely showing a veil, a silk belt, and a prayer bead, vivid and lifelike; on the left is Jigong Worshiping Buddha, equally realistic. Besides the Tianfo and the two protectors, there are other naturally formed abstract Buddhist landscapes on the cliffs, such as Tathagata, Guanyin, Lama chanting sutras, divine turtle calling to heaven, divine eagle offering treasures, and butter lamps. It is said that those with Buddhist affinity can more clearly see their forms.

As we entered the scenic area, we happened to meet a tour guide leading a group and explaining. We followed the guide, listening to his stories and observing the various奇特 forms on the cliff. As we walked along, when we reached the Tianfo Waterfall, it began to snow. In no time, the surroundings were shrouded in mist, and the images on the cliff became blurred.

When we returned to the entrance, we were covered with a layer of snow. Back in the car, the day's itinerary ended. We returned to Nyingchi city around 7 p.m.

Nyingchi is famous for its stone pots. Back in Nyingchi city, we tasted stone pot mushroom soup with yak meat. The portion was generous, the yak meat tender, and the mushroom soup delicious.

[Stone pot mushroom soup with yak meat]

Today, we were to cross the Sejila Mountains and go to Yigong Township to see rapeseed flowers and peach blossoms. In the morning, Mr. Xiang arrived on time to pick us up at the hotel. We left Nyingchi city and headed for Yigong Township.

The car drove along National Highway 318, passing Nyingchi Town and entering the Sejila Mountains. The Sejila Mountains belong to the Nyainqentanglha Range and form the boundary between eastern and central-western Nyingchi County. They are the watershed between the Nyang River and the Palong Zangbo River, crossed by the southern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. We heard that it had snowed heavily on the Sejila Mountains the previous night, and today the slopes were covered with thick snow.

At noon, we reached the viewing platform at the Sejila Mountain pass. The snow on the platform glittered in the sunlight. In the distance, Mount Namjagbarwa was shrouded in thick clouds. On a clear day, the Sejila Mountain pass at an altitude of 4,728 meters offers a wide view of the endless Lulang Forest Sea and the majestic Namjagbarwa peak.

Mount Namjagbarwa is located at the intersection of the Himalayas, the Nyainqentanglha Range, and the Hengduan Mountains. It is the highest mountain in Nyingchi, Tibet, and a holy site of the ancient Tibetan Bon religion, known as the "Father of All Mountains in Tibet." Its巨大的 triangular peak is perpetually snow-covered and shrouded in clouds, rarely revealing its true face, hence it is also called the "Shy Lady Peak."

Since we would pass by here again on the return trip, we didn't stay long, just took a few photos and left.

The car continued along the mountain road, with steep cliffs on one side and an endless forest sea on the other. In the distant mountain hollows, some scattered houses could be seen. Mr. Xiang told us this was the famous Lulang Forest Sea.

Lulang Forest Sea is located on the southern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway (National Highway 318). It is a forest in a sea of clouds and mist, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The valleys are covered with lush forests, and there are neat meadows like those trimmed by hand. Thousands of wildflowers bloom in a picturesque scene.

From the Sejila Mountains, winding down the highway, we arrived at Lulang Town.

Lulang Town is located in Bayi District, Nyingchi. It is a quiet town surrounded by forests and mountains. In the distance, clouds and mist wrap around the mountains; nearby, streams meander, and alpine meadows are covered with wildflowers. The scenery is beautiful and peaceful, earning it the reputation of "Snowy Switzerland" and "Jiangnan of Tibet."

Today, we still had to go to Yigong Township, so we didn't stop in Lulang Town. After passing Lulang Town, we continued along National Highway 318 and reached the Pailong Natural Barrier. This was once the most dangerous section of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, known for its narrowness, poor condition, and peril. Due to the loose and fragile mountain rock, rain, snow, or melting ice easily caused landslides and collapses, blocking traffic. Even in the dry season, the heavy trucks left deep ruts on the road, and falling rocks were everywhere, making it easy for cars to scrape the underside.

Now, a tunnel and a bridge have been built here, turning the natural barrier into a smooth passage.

After passing the Pailong Natural Barrier, we temporarily left National Highway 318 and entered the branch road to Yigong Township.

Yigong is a township under Bomi County, Nyingchi, Tibet. In Tibetan, "Yigong" means "beautiful." The Yigong River valley and the area around Yigong Lake have many narrow terraces, with altitudes ranging from 1,900 to 2,300 meters. The area has no severe cold in winter or extreme heat in summer, high humidity, and relatively weak sunlight. It is the only tea-producing region in Tibet, and the famous Yigong Tea Farm is located here.

Yigong Tea Farm is at an altitude of 2,240 meters, the highest tea farm in China. Entering Yigong Township, the first thing we saw was the first tea field in Yigong.

[First tea field in Yigong]

Continuing along Yigong Lake, there were many farmhouses, and patches of blooming rapeseed flowers and scattered peach blossoms were particularly beautiful against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains and the lake.

After circling Yigong Lake, we finally arrived at the seat of Yigong Tea Farm and visited the General's Building where General Zhang Guohua, former commander of the Tibet Military Region, once worked in Tibet.

Leaving Yigong Township, we returned to National Highway 318, crossed the Tongmai Grand Bridge, and passed the milestone at 4,000 kilometers of National Highway 318 to reach Bomi County.

[Milestone at 4,000 kilometers of National Highway 318]

Today, we were to drive along the Zhamo Highway to the mysterious Mêdog.

The Zhamo Highway starts at Zhamo Town in Bomi County and ends at Lotus Square in Mêdog County. It was built on the basis of improving the former simple road to Mêdog, with a total length of 117.278 kilometers. It crosses six rivers, including the Boduo Zangbo, Jinzhu Zangbo, and Ximo Rivers, passes through Gaglai Temple, and tunnels through the Gaglai Snow Mountain to reach Lotus Square in Mêdog County. Due to the complex geological conditions in the South Tibetan area where Mêdog is located, geological disasters such as mudslides frequently occur, making construction extremely difficult. Construction began in 1975 but was repeatedly damaged by natural disasters and started and stopped many times. It was not until October 31, 2013, that the highway was officially opened, ending Mêdog County's history as the only county in China without a road.

From Zhamo Town in Bomi County, we first had to cross the Gaglai Snow Mountain, which is one of the essential passes to reach Mêdog County.

Gaglai Snow Mountain is located on the border between Mêdog County and Bomi County in Nyingchi, Tibet. It is the western end of the Gangri Garbo Mountains (also the northwestern extreme of the Hengduan Mountains), with an average altitude of 4,800 meters and a pass altitude of about 4,200 meters. It is a convergence zone for the warm and moist air from the Indian Ocean to the south and the cold, high-altitude air from the Tibetan Plateau to the north, resulting in changeable weather. Therefore, Gaglai Snow Mountain is considered a sacred mountain by the locals. The summit is covered with snow and ice year-round, and there are several glaciers on the mountain, typical modern glacial landforms. The meltwater ultimately flows into tributaries of the Yarlung Zangbo River.

Thick snow piled up on both sides of the road. We drove through snow walls over half a meter high.

After passing the 52K checkpoint, we reached the Gaglai Tunnel.

Gaglai Tunnel is a key project of the Mêdog Highway, with a total length of 3,310 meters and an average altitude of 3,700 meters. Construction was under harsh meteorological conditions, crossing multiple geological fault zones with fragmented rock and large water inflow. The geological structure and hydrogeological conditions were extremely complex. From November to April each year, heavy snow blocks the mountains, causing great inconvenience to the lives of Mêdog people. The completion of the tunnel not only saves time crossing the mountain but also avoids the difficulty of driving in heavy snow. It is a miracle in highway construction history, marking the end of the long history of Mêdog people being isolated by the vast snow mountains.

When we reached the Gaglai Tunnel, it was covered with thick white snow. Since we would pass by here again on the return trip, we didn't stay long and continued to Mêdog County. From the Gaglai Tunnel at 3,700 meters to Mêdog Town at over 1,000 meters, there were many continuous descents. Along the way, we experienced all four seasons in one day, from snow-covered mountains to lush tropical rainforest.

The Mêdog tropical rainforest is the northernmost tropical rainforest on Earth. It is the region with the lowest altitude, mildest climate, most abundant rainfall, and best-preserved ecology on the Tibetan Plateau.

At noon, we arrived in Mêdog County. Mêdog in Tibet is known as "Beyul Pemako," meaning "Hidden Lotus," and is also the birthplace of the legendary Sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso. In 2013, Mêdog became the last county in China to be connected by road.

First, we went to Rinchenpung Monastery on the southern Namala Mountain in Mêdog Village, Mêdog Town. However, the monastery was under renovation and not open to the public. Then we went to a viewing platform called "Mirage," where we could overlook the winding Yarlung Zangbo River and the entire Mêdog County.

["Mirage" viewing platform]

Continuing from the viewing platform, we reached the famous Yarlung Zangbo River Goyu Goyu Great Bend.

The Yarlung Zangbo River Goyu Goyu Great Bend is located on a mountain 20 kilometers from Mêdog County, and it is the most representative scenic spot in Mêdog. The Yarlung Zangbo River makes a big bend here, locally called the Snake Bend. Because it looks like a lollipop from above, it is named Goyu Goyu Great Bend. This is the true great bend of the Yarlung Zangbo River. A lotus-shaped viewing platform is available for tourists to overlook and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon. With clouds and mist, the scenery appears and disappears, and its magnificence is breathtaking.

[Yarlung Zangbo River Goyu Goyu Great Bend]

Leaving the Goyu Goyu Great Bend, we also visited the Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum.

The Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum, also called the "Lotus Pavilion," is located on a mountaintop on the edge of Mêdog County. The museum displays the geographical overview of Mêdog, the farming, production, and lifestyle of the Monba and Lhoba peoples, ancient hunting culture, religion, customs, as well as textile, clothing, and traditional handicraft culture. It is a museum of historical and cultural heritage.

[Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum]

The Lotus Pavilion is a landmark building in Mêdog, with strong Monba and Lhoba ethnic characteristics. From the observation platform on the top floor, one can see the entire Mêdog County without any死角. It is the best viewing and photography spot in Mêdog.

[Lotus Pavilion observation platform]

After the museum, we entered Mêdog County. After checking into the hotel, we wandered around Mêdog County.

Today, we were to leave Mêdog and return to Bomi the same way. In the morning, the Zhamo Highway was shrouded in a layer of mist, and the air was humid.

Driving along the Zhamo Highway, we soon reached the Gaglai Tunnel. Passing through the tunnel, the golden-roofed and red-walled Gaglai Temple appeared against the white snow.

We lingered at the pass for a while and then left. After lunch in Bomi County, Mr. Xiang mentioned that the nearby Gangyun Spruce Forest was very beautiful, so we decided to visit Gangyun Spruce Forest in the afternoon.

Gangyun Spruce Forest is located 22 kilometers west of Bomi Zhamo Town, covering an area of over 2,800 hectares with a forest coverage rate of over 61%, especially dominated by spruce. The scenic area features high mountains, dense trees, ancient trees reaching the sky, lakes, mountains, rivers, and green trees, forming a charming picture.

Today, we were to visit Laigu Glacier. Exiting Bomi County, we drove along National Highway 318, first passing by Rawok Lake.

Rawok Lake is located in Rawok Township, Baxoi County, Qamdo Prefecture. It is a barrier lake formed by landslides or mudslides blocking the river. To the southwest of the lake is the Gangri Garbo Snow Mountain, to the south is the Azha Gongla Glacier, and to the northeast is the Boshula Range. The meltwater from the surrounding snow-capped mountains is the main source of water for Rawok Lake, and the lake water flows westward to form one of the upper sources of the Palong Zangbo River, an important tributary of the famous Yarlung Zangbo River in Tibet. Along the lake, there are dense primeval forests and many primitive Tibetan villages.

On the way, we passed a lake surface with reflections of snow-capped mountains. The green mirror-like water clearly reflected the snow-capped mountains, like a heavy oil painting. Many self-driving cars stopped by the roadside, and we also stopped to play here for a while.

Continuing along the shore of Rawok Lake, known as the "Heavenly Jade Pool," the shrubs on both banks, combined with white clouds and blue sky, reflected in the lake to form colorful paintings.

It was already noon when we arrived at Laigu Village, where Laigu Glacier is located. We had to take a sightseeing bus at the entrance of the scenic area, then walk over a small hill to reach the glacier lake.

Laigu Glacier is located within Rawok Town, Baxoi County, Qamdo Prefecture, Tibet, close to Rawok Lake. It is a general term for a group of glaciers and is the source of the Palong Zangbo River. The meltwater flows into Rawok Lake. Laigu Glacier is the largest and widest known glacier in Tibet. Multiple glaciers surround Laigu Village, forming several glacial lakes in front of the village. Due to different geological and soil compositions of each glacier, each glacial lake reflects different colors. Some glacial lakes even have large and small icebergs floating on them, giving a feeling of being in Antarctica. Between the end of the glacier and the glacial lake, broken glaciers expose dozens of meters of blue ice layers.

Here, glaciers, lakes, farmland, villages, and forests blend together. The snow shines all year round, the glaciers are pure and beautiful, with various shapes, making the scenery magical and charming. It is a model of harmony between humans and nature.

In the morning, we left Bomi and returned to Nyingchi city. Shortly after leaving Bomi County, we passed Guxiang Lake.

Guxiang Lake is located in Guxiang Village, 33 kilometers from Bomi County, Tibet, and 210 kilometers from Nyingchi. The lake is at an altitude of 2,600 meters, 5 kilometers long, up to 2 kilometers wide, and over 20 meters deep at its deepest point, with an area of 20,000 square meters. It is a freshwater barrier lake formed in 1953 when the "Xionglu Gini" glacier activity on the back mountain of Guxiang caused a huge mudslide that blocked the Palong Zangbo River. There is a small island in the lake with an area of over 1,000 square meters. Located on National Highway 318 with convenient transportation, it is a natural park.

Due to thick clouds in the sky, the light was not very good, and Guxiang Lake was not as beautiful as imagined. After taking a few photos on the viewing platform, we left. On the return trip, we passed through Lulang Town again and made a brief stop at a high-altitude meadow called Alpine Pasture.

When we passed the Sejila Mountain pass again, the sky was gloomy, and Mount Namjagbarwa was still hidden behind thick clouds.

Since we couldn't see Mount Namjagbarwa, we didn't stop. We returned to Nyingchi city at noon.

Ending our journey in Nyingchi, today we returned to Lhasa accompanied by beautiful scenery all the way.

[Lhasa-Nyingchi en route]

It was dinner time when we checked into the hotel. Next to our hotel was a shop called Cuomu Liangfen, a popular local snack shop where many locals come to eat. Tonight, we had dinner at Cuomu Liangfen.

After dinner, we went to nearby Barkhor Street.

Barkhor Street, also called Octagonal Street, is located in the old city of Lhasa. It is a famous kora circuit and commercial center in Lhasa, relatively well-preserved in the traditional appearance and living style of the ancient city. Originally, the street was only a kora circuit around the Jokhang Temple, called "Sacred Road" by Tibetans. It has gradually expanded to a large area of old-style streets around the Jokhang Temple.

The circuit around the central Shakyamuni Buddha hall inside the Jokhang Temple is called "Nangkhor," the circuit around the outer wall of the Jokhang Temple is called "Barkhor," and the streets radiating from the Jokhang Temple are called "Barkhor Street" or Octagonal Street. A larger circuit that includes the Potala Palace, Medicine King Hill, and Ramoche Temple around the Jokhang Temple is called "Lingkhor." These three rings from inside to outside are the routes for Tibetan pilgrims to perform kora.

On Barkhor Street, there are many shops selling special tourist products. Tourists come and go, and Tibetan pilgrims devoutly perform their kora rituals.

There are many temples in Lhasa, mainly Jokhang Temple, Ramoche Temple, Sera Monastery, and Drepung Monastery, as well as Gungtang Nunnery and Zhaxi Monastery. Jokhang Temple requires advance reservation. Our reservation was for this afternoon. In the morning, we first visited Gungtang Nunnery and Ramoche Temple, which are not far from Jokhang Temple.

First, we went to Gungtang Nunnery on Barkhor Street. The nuns of Gungtang Nunnery run a sweet tea house, a gathering place for local Tibetans. The nuns cook and serve food there. Most of the customers are locals from Lhasa, chatting while eating. We hadn't had breakfast yet, so we first went to the sweet tea house to eat.

Entering through the front door, the shop was small but clean, filled with elderly Tibetan men and women drinking tea and chatting. We ordered vegetarian Tibetan noodles, vegetarian baozi, and sweet tea. We sat in a corner on the second floor, eating and watching the bustling crowds outside the window.

[Vegetarian Tibetan noodles and sweet tea]

After breakfast, we visited the adjacent Gungtang Nunnery.

Gungtang Nunnery is located in Lhasa, Tibet. It is a Gelugpa monastery and the only nunnery in Lhasa. The most famous part is the meditation cave of Songtsen Gampo underground on the first floor of the main Buddha hall. Inside the cave is a statue of the Tubo king Songtsen Gampo. Three full-time nuns are here every day to chant prayers on time, place offerings, or replace lamp oil.

Gungtang Nunnery is not very large, and we soon finished visiting. After a 20-minute walk, we arrived at Ramoche Temple.

Ramoche Temple, called "Jadar Raomoche" in Tibetan, is located about 500 meters north of Barkhor Street in Lhasa. It was built in the mid-7th century in 641 (the Iron Ox year of the Tibetan calendar during the reign of Songtsen Gampo) and was founded by Princess Wencheng. The architectural style of Ramoche Temple combines Han and Tibetan features. It is not only one of the earliest temples in Tibet but also a symbol of the unity and friendship between the Han and Tibetan peoples, occupying a very important position in the history of Han-Tibetan relations. Ramoche Temple has been burned several times in history. Most of the existing buildings are later reconstructions, only the ground floor shrine is an early structure, with ten pillars vaguely reflecting the legacy of Tubo.

Today happened to be the 15th day of the first month of the Tibetan calendar, so many Tibetan pilgrims came to worship at Ramoche Temple. They lined up to pay homage in front of the Shakyamuni Buddha statue.

It was noon after visiting Ramoche Temple, and our reservation time for Jokhang Temple was approaching, so we walked back to Jokhang Temple Square.

Jokhang Temple, also known as "Zulakhang" or "Jokhang" (meaning Buddha Hall in Tibetan), is located in the center of Lhasa's old city. With a history of over 1,300 years, it blends architectural styles from Tibet, Tang China, Nepal, and India. It is the most magnificent surviving Tubo period building in Tibet and the earliest earth-wood structure, and it pioneered the Tibetan flat layout of temple layouts, becoming a thousand-year model of Tibetan religious architecture, holding supreme status in Tibetan Buddhism. The temple was originally called "Rasa," which later became the city's name and evolved into today's "Lhasa." After its completion, Jokhang Temple underwent many modifications and expansions through the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties to reach its current scale. Incense smoke curls in front of the temple all day long, and devout pilgrims leave deep imprints of full-body prostrations on the blue stone floor in front of the door. Ten thousand butter lamps burn brightly, leaving traces of time and pilgrims.

Jokhang Temple Square was noisy, with many Tibetan pilgrims performing full-body prostrations in front of the temple.

Jokhang Temple itself was even more crowded. Many Tibetan pilgrims brought butter and hada scarves for worship. Mixed in the crowded crowd, we couldn't appreciate the exquisite Buddha statues and murals properly and left after a quick tour. It was still early after coming out of Jokhang Temple, so we decided to visit Norbulingka. We took a bus to Norbulingka, and when we got off, we saw the Tibet Museum right across from the stop, so we decided to visit the Tibet Museum first.

The Tibet Museum is located at the southeastern corner of Norbulingka in Lhasa. It is the first modern museum in Tibet, with鲜明的 Tibetan traditional architectural art features, while also reflecting the practical functions and artistic charm of modern architecture. The museum's exhibition halls consist of four major sections: prehistoric culture, inseparable history, culture and arts, and folk culture. They display over a thousand various types of collection treasures, such as Buddha and Bodhisattva statues in various materials and shapes, handwritten Tibetan scriptures in gold, silver, and coral powder from various dynasties, gold seals issued by the central government to high lamas, the golden urn and jade sticks used in the golden urn lottery ceremony, colorful thangkas, various musical instruments and ritual objects, handicrafts with distinct ethnic characteristics, and unique pottery.

[Tibet Museum viewing platform]

It was nearly 5 p.m. after visiting the Tibet Museum, and we were a bit tired. We decided not to go to Norbulingka for now and took the bus back to the hotel to rest.

Today, we were to visit Yamdrok Lake, one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. Since there is no direct bus to Yamdrok Lake, we chose a one-day group tour.

Yamdrok Lake, abbreviated as Yamdrok, means "Turquoise Lake" in Tibetan. It is located in Nagarzê County, Shannan Prefecture, Tibet. Together with Namtso and Mapam Yumtso, it is one of the three holy lakes in Tibet and the largest inland lake on the northern slope of the Himalayas. Its beauty surpasses all others in southern Tibet. The lake's water is as smooth as a mirror, and the lakeside is rich in water and grass, making it a rich alpine pasture. Local Tibetans sing folk songs praising Yamdrok: "The celestial paradise, the earthly Yamdrok. The stars in the sky, the cattle and sheep by the lake."

In the morning, the travel agency's car picked us up at the hotel. Leaving Lhasa, the car drove along winding mountain roads. Along the way, we passed several viewing platforms where we could overlook Yamdrok Lake from different heights.

[Lhasa-Yamdrok Lake en route]

[Luri La viewing platform]

After a bumpy ride, we arrived at Ritoe Monastery at noon.

Ritoe Monastery means "Stone on the Mountain." It is built on a peninsula on the north shore of Yamdrok Lake, built against the mountain, and is the only building on the peninsula. The monastery has only one monk stationed there year-round, who spends his entire life alone guarding the temple. It is known as the loneliest monastery in the world. One lake, one temple, one monk, one lifetime. It has been like this for 700 years, with seasons changing, sunrises and sunsets. Cultivation means staying here until it becomes an inseparable way of life.

Standing on the island, surrounded by the lake on all sides, we could feel the 360-degree embrace of Yamdrok Lake. Blue sky, turquoise lake, brown mountains, and red temple formed a dreamlike picture, making us feel like we were in another world, carefree and at ease.

On the peninsula, we could get close to Yamdrok Lake. The water was clear and blue, white clouds reflected on the surface, and in the shallow water near the shore, aquatic plants swayed in the water.

We returned to Lhasa at 7 p.m. We got off at the White Pagoda parking lot near the Potala Palace. Next to it was a popular yak yogurt shop, where we tasted the rich, creamy yak yogurt.

Medicine King Hill near the White Pagoda parking lot is the best place to see a panoramic view of the Potala Palace. The photo of the Potala Palace on the back of the 50-yuan note was taken here. We originally planned to go to Medicine King Hill to see the panoramic view, but it was closed to visitors after 5 p.m. So we went to the Potala Palace Square across from the parking lot to wait for the night view of the Potala Palace.

[Potala Palace Square]

[Potala Palace night view]

The Potala Palace is a must-visit when in Tibet. We had made a reservation two days in advance.

The Potala Palace is located on the Red Hill in the northwest of Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. It is a palace-fortress complex. It was originally built by Songtsen Gampo, the king of Tubo, to welcome Princess Wencheng. After reconstruction in the 17th century, it became the winter palace of the successive Dalai Lamas and the political and religious center of Tibet. The Potala Palace is built on the mountain, integrating palaces, castles, and monasteries. The buildings are towering and majestic. The entire complex is in Tibetan style. The main buildings extend downward on the east and west sides, connecting with the high palace walls, divided into the White Palace and the Red Palace.

Entering the Potala Palace, we first visited the White Palace, then climbed stone steps to the Red Palace. The Red Palace is splendid, with a large number of exquisite cultural relics. Photography is not allowed inside the Red Palace.

Descending from the back mountain of the Potala Palace, at the foot is Zongjiao Lukang Park, a public park in Lhasa. Chokyi Lake is an artificial lake in Zongjiao Lukang Park, with ancient willow trees planted around, making the scenery charming.

[Zongjiao Lukang Park]

Leaving Zongjiao Lukang Park, we took a bus to Norbulingka in the western suburbs of Lhasa.

Norbulingka was first built in the 1740s (during the time of the 7th Dalai Lama) as a summer palace and administrative center for the successive Dalai Lamas. It is a typical Tibetan-style garden. After over 200 years of expansion, the entire garden covers 360,000 square meters, with the main buildings being Kelsang Palace, Golden Palace, and Daden Mingjiu Palace. It is the largest, most beautiful, and most historic garden among Tibetan artificial gardens. High platforms are built on high ground, ponds are dug in low areas, letting nature take its course, with emphasis on taking in the scenery. The garden layout of Norbulingka not only has the characteristics of the Tibetan Plateau but also absorbs traditional techniques of inland gardens, using buildings, rocks, water surfaces, and trees to create different moods. The garden is densely wooded, with Tibetan-style buildings like the Lake Heart Palace, Dragon King Pavilion, and Golden Forest hidden among the green trees, serene and charming. The fresh air and tranquil environment give a unique rustic and natural appeal typical of Tibetan gardens.

After visiting Norbulingka, we returned to Barkhor Street and enjoyed a delicious Tibetan-style yak meat hotpot at a Tibetan restaurant called Nansalong.

[Tibetan-style yak meat hotpot]

In the morning, we took a bullet train from Lhasa Station and arrived in Shigatse after 2.5 hours. From Shigatse Station, we took a bus to Tashilhunpo Monastery.

Tashilhunpo Monastery is located at the foot of Nyiseri Mountain in Shigatse, Tibet. Its name means "Auspicious Sumeru Monastery" in Tibetan, and its full name is "Tashilhunpo Beyge Dechen Choeden Lekhungen Nangbawa Ling," meaning "Auspicious Sumeru Gathering All Blessings and Victories in All Directions." It was built in the 12th year of Ming Zhengtong (1447) by Gendun Drup, a disciple of Tsongkhapa. Later, the 4th Panchen Lama, Losang Choekyi Gyaltsen, expanded it. Tashilhunpo Monastery is one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries in China. Together with the "three great monasteries" of Lhasa (Ganden, Sera, Drepung), they are known as the "four great monasteries" of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. Together with Ta'er Monastery in Qinghai and Labrang Monastery in Gansu, they are the "six great monasteries" of the Gelug school. Tashilhunpo Monastery covers an area of 150,000 square meters, surrounded by palace walls that wind along the mountain, with a perimeter of over 3,000 meters. The entire monastery is built on the hillside, with halls arranged one after another, balanced and harmonious.

There aren't many tourists in Shigatse. The shops on the street in front of Tashilhunpo Monastery mainly sell items related to the daily life of locals. After visiting the monastery, we wandered around Shigatse and took the 7 p.m. bullet train back to Lhasa.

We heard that Zhaxi Monastery is the wealth temple in Tibet, and the god of wealth there likes to drink alcohol and often gets drunk. So it is better to go early in the morning before the god gets drunk. We followed the local custom and visited Zhaxi Monastery after breakfast.

Zhaxi Monastery is located on Zhaxi Road in the northern suburbs of Lhasa. It is a branch of Sera Monastery, a Gelugpa monastery, and the only wealth temple in Tibet. The "god of wealth" at Zhaxi Monastery is called "Zhaxi Lhamo" in Tibetan. Although the temple is small, it has a strong incense, with many pilgrims coming to worship.

After visiting Zhaxi Monastery, we took a bus at the gate and arrived at Sera Monastery in half an hour.

Sera Monastery is located at the foot of Serawu Mountain, 3 kilometers north of Lhasa. Its full name is "Sera Thekchen Ling," one of the six main Gelugpa monasteries in Tibet, and together with Drepung and Ganden, it is one of the three great monasteries of Lhasa. It has been a place for eminent monks and reincarnate lamas to preach and debate since ancient times.

The buildings of Sera Monastery are dense but not crowded, mixed but not chaotic, adapted to the local conditions, with the main body prominent, reflecting the unique style of a large Gelugpa monastery. The early buildings were centered around Mehrikang and Ngaba Zangcang, and later expansions and renovations brought it to its current scale. The monastery houses tens of thousands of vajra statues, mostly locally made in Tibet, as well as bronze Buddha statues brought from inland China or India. The walls of the main hall and various colleges preserve a large number of original colorful murals. The most famous statue is the "Hayagriva" (Horse-headed Vajra) in the main hall.

There were not many tourists at Sera Monastery. After visiting the temple, we wanted to see the monks' sutra debating, but the debating ground was closed. So we took a bus back to Barkhor Street. We got off near Chongsaikang Market and took a stroll through the market.

Chongsaikang Comprehensive Market is located in Chengguan District, Lhasa, Tibet. It is a daily goods market in Tibet. The Tibetan word "Chongsaikang" means "market, bazaar." A building on the east side of the market was originally the aristocratic mansion called "Wangden Bianba." The aristocrats would occasionally stand at the windows on the second floor of that building to "inspect" the people and order in Chongsaikang Market.

Chongsaikang Comprehensive Market is not large, mainly selling daily necessities. Not far from the market is an ancient building that once served as the office of the Qing Dynasty's resident commissioner in Tibet. It is now the "Former Site Exhibition Hall of the Qing Dynasty Resident Commissioner's Office in Tibet."

The Tibetan-style traditional courtyard where the exhibition hall is located is called "Chongsaikang Zhakang," a three-story Tibetan-style building complex on the north street of Barkhor Street in the old city of Lhasa, with a history of over 300 years. The Qing government established the first resident commissioner's office here for the commissioner to work and live. Since the commissioner could enjoy a close view of the bustling Barkhor Street from the windows of the south building, it was called "Chongsaikang," meaning "house with a view of the market."

[Former Site Exhibition Hall of the Qing Dynasty Resident Commissioner's Office in Tibet]

After visiting the exhibition hall, we continued to wander around Barkhor Street.

At dinner time, we ate at a Tibetan restaurant called Gaji Xiang on Barkhor Street, trying stomach-wrapped meat and ginseng fruit fried rice. The yak meat wrapped in tripe and the slightly sweet ginseng fruit fried rice were both delicious. Later, we found online that Tibetan ginseng fruit is the root of a plant called Potentilla anserina.

[Ginseng fruit fried rice]

After dinner, we bought some souvenirs on Barkhor Street and returned to the hotel to rest.

Today was our last day in Tibet. We planned to visit the holy lake Namtso. The one-way trip from Lhasa to Namtso takes 4 hours. To save time, we booked a one-day tour with a travel agency in advance.

We set off at dawn. Shortly after leaving Lhasa, the car entered the Nyainqentanglha Mountains.

The Nyainqentanglha Mountains are one of the main mountain ranges on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. The main peak, Nyainqentanglha, is 7,162 meters high, a snow-covered majestic peak adjacent to Namtso, the second largest lake in Tibet. Besides the main peak, Nyainqentanglha has three other summits: Nyainqentanglha II at 7,117 meters, Nyainqentanglha III at 7,111 meters, and Nyainqentanglha IV at 7,046 meters.

[Nyainqentanglha Mountains]

The car traveled through the Nyainqentanglha Mountains for over three hours and reached the Naggen La Pass.

Naggen La Pass is located in Damxung County, Tibet, at an altitude of 5,190 meters. It is a necessary pass across the Nyainqentanglha Mountains to Namtso and a sacred place in the hearts of Tibetans. A stele marking the altitude stands at the pass, and the Mani stone mound is covered with prayer flags. Looking north from the pass, one can see the blue Namtso in the distance. Standing at this pass, which belongs to the so-called life-forbidden zone above 5,000 meters, looking around, one immediately feels a sense of grandeur, vastness, and expansiveness.

The wind was strong at the pass covered with prayer flags. Snow was visible everywhere, and the prayer flags fluttered in the wind.

After staying at Naggen La Pass for about 20 minutes, we continued to Namtso and arrived at the Namtso Visitor Center at noon.

Namtso is located in the central part of the Tibet Autonomous Region. It is the second largest lake in Tibet and the third largest saltwater lake in China. The lake surface is at an altitude of 4,718 meters. It is roughly rectangular, about 70 kilometers long from east to west, 30 kilometers wide from north to south, with an area of 1,920 square kilometers. It is the highest large lake in the world. The water is clear and transparent, and the lake surface is sky blue. "Namtso" is Tibetan; the Mongolian name is "Tengger Lake," both meaning "Heavenly Lake." Namtso is one of the "three holy lakes" of Tibet and the first sacred lake of the ancient Bon religion, a famous Buddhist holy site.

From the Namtso Visitor Center, we took a scenic area sightseeing bus for nearly an hour to reach Tashi Peninsula.

Tashi Peninsula, also called the Auspicious Love Island, is at the southeastern end of Namtso, extending northward into the lake. It is a peninsula of about 10 square kilometers composed of limestone, the largest peninsula on Namtso. In the middle is a small hill dozens of meters high. At the northernmost end, countless stone pillars and奇异 peaks stand clustered, with naturally connected stone bridges between the peaks. Due to long-term erosion by the lake water, there are many quiet caves on the island, filled with stalactites, forming a unique karst landform. The奇异 and colorful landscape of Tashi Peninsula is truly a wonder.

At the foot of the mountain by the lake, there are many Mani piles made of stones. It was March, and the ice and snow on the lake hadn't melted. Looking up, the deep and clear blue sky merged with the frozen lake surface. In the distance, the majestic snowy peaks were like jade buildings, appearing and disappearing.

A kora path around the peninsula allows a full circle on foot. Due to limited time, we could only walk to the lakeside to play. After playing by the lake for a while, we took the sightseeing bus back to the visitor center. Along the way, the bus drove on the peninsula road, allowing us to see the peninsula's terrain from the bus.

Ending our trip to Namtso, we returned to Lhasa at over 8 p.m.

Our journey in Tibet was over. Today, we left Lhasa and flew back to Chengdu.

[Lhasa-Chengdu en route]

After a day of travel, we arrived at our hotel near Tianfu Square in the evening. Every time we come to Chengdu, we must have skewer hotpot. This time was no exception. After a short rest at the hotel, we went to a skewer hotpot restaurant called Mabian Bianbian near the hotel.

[Chengdu skewer hotpot]

The home of the big landlord Liu Wencai is in Anren Ancient Town. Our first stop in Chengdu this time was Anren Ancient Town. In the morning, we took a bus from Chadianzi Bus Station to Anren Station. After getting off, we took a local tricycle for about ten minutes to reach the ancient town.

Anren Ancient Town was first built in the Tang Dynasty, named after the phrase "take the benevolent as benevolent." The existing old-style street buildings in the town were mostly built in the late Qing and early Republican periods, especially during the heyday of the Liu family in the Republic of China. The architecture combines Chinese and Western styles, with various courtyards that are solemn, elegant, and grand, creating a unique architectural style in Anren, known as "Western Sichuan Architectural Cultural Excellence."

Entering the ancient town, the first place to visit was the Liu Family Manor.

Liu Family Manor consists of five mansions built by the modern Sichuan big landlord Liu Wencai and his brothers (Liu Wenyuan, Liu Wenzhao, Liu Wencheng, Liu Wencai, Liu Wenhui) and an ancestral residence of the Liu family. The mansions are distributed in two large building complexes facing each other north and south, covering a total area of over 70,000 square meters, with a building area of 21,000 square meters and 545 rooms. It is the largest modern landlord manor complex in China. The entire manor complex was started in the late Qing Dynasty and underwent several large-scale constructions and expansions, reaching its current scale at the end of the Republic of China. The most representative is Liu Wencai's mansion, a closed courtyard with high walls and deep courtyards, typical Chinese-Western eclectic architecture, with gable walls, multiple gates, deep alleys, and winding paths, like a maze, fully reflecting the luxury and ostentation of a wealthy family in modern western Sichuan.

After visiting Liu Family Manor, we had lunch in the ancient town and then strolled around.

Seeing the sign pointing to Liu Wenhui's former residence, we followed the direction and arrived at a courtyard with a sign reading "Liu Wenhui's Mansion Yanqing Garden." Inside, we found that this courtyard was only one part of Liu Wenhui's former residence, not his actual residence. The real former residence of Liu Wenhui was in another courtyard next door and required a separate ticket. We didn't go in, just took a photo at the entrance.

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Into the Snowy Plateau: A 22-Day Trip to Tibet

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