Third Self-Drive Yunnan Trip from Guangzhou (Randomly Entering Tibet and Leaving Sichuan Version)

The three-week self-drive trips to Yunnan during the Spring Festival in 2018 and 2019 were wonderful memories. After that, due to the pandemic and work, I hadn’t driven to ‘wine and distant lands’ for three years. I focused on doing more homework, constantly improving the itinerary, and I was really looking forward to setting off many times.

My son is 17 now, not very keen on going out with us, but luckily his best friend from primary school, Cai Cai’s family (4 people), also planned a self-drive trip to Yunnan. After discussing, it turned out their planned departure date was the same as ours. They really liked our itinerary, and the two kids were even happier. Later, to keep up with our driving schedule (arriving in Dali the next day), they even set off a day early.

Preparations: Since we were already very familiar and were going in summer, the luggage was simpler, but we still brought an extra box of clothes (mainly because we wanted to look good, bringing clothes for different occasions, but in the end, we were too lazy to change. I strongly recommend bringing fewer clothes). The day before departure, we changed the engine oil, brought a gas stove, instant noodles, and two pounds each of baijiu and foreign liquor.

The luggage from Spring 2018 & 2019 vs. Summer 2023: you can see it’s getting less and less.

August 4th (Friday): Work was manageable. We set off at 1 p.m. and checked into the Baise Wyndham Resort Hotel (recommended) around 9 p.m. We had a late-night snack and then went back to sleep.

5th: Set off at 5:30 a.m. (Baise has strict speed checks, but luckily the car performed well, and we didn’t get fined for being 10% over). The two families met at a service area in Kunming at noon. We were very happy and quickly took a group photo. Arrived at the south gate of Dali Ancient City around 4 p.m. There were fewer people and convenient parking. We immediately went for a mixed mushroom chicken hotpot to fill our stomachs, opened some wine (there was a female driver, so we could have a drink with every meal). We strolled briefly through the ancient city and checked into the Dali Blue House Seaview Inn by Erhai Lake before dark (poor service, not recommended).

The couple had a romantic moment by Erhai Lake.

6th: Rain. The couple had noodles at the inn, then took umbrellas to walk along Erhai Lake. The newly built boardwalk added a lot of beauty. In Yunnan, it gets dark late, and with the well-arranged itinerary, the kids basically slept until they woke up naturally every day. So we set off at 11 a.m. towards Shangri-La Shanmei Inn at Tiger Leaping Gorge, and the journey truly began.

After getting off the highway, we crossed Songyuan Bridge and had lunch at Yao Mei Fresh Fish Restaurant on the side of Xijing Road (the fish was a bit expensive). At the Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge (Tencent Maps; Gaode didn’t show the bridge name), we were told the scenic area was closed due to heavy rain and high water levels, and we couldn’t cross the bridge (later I searched online; it had been closed since 10:30 a.m., no wonder there was no traffic jam). We continued driving, crossed the Qiaotou Middle Bridge (Tencent Maps), stopped, and called the innkeeper. She said we could enter. We passed through three security checkpoints, saying we were going to Shanmei or directly talked to the inn. They let us through, and we didn’t even need to buy scenic area tickets (we never entered the scenic area in two visits, but in 2019, we had to pay even when passing through normally).

In front of the inn, there was a 2.4 km stretch with a 350-meter elevation drop (different apps gave different results) and over a dozen steep S-curves on a cement road. Fortunately, the car handled well, gripping nicely without slipping, taking each curve smoothly, just like a theme park ride (the co-pilot kept an eye on oncoming cars). It was very exciting. The inn had its own parking lot for 6-7 cars.

‘Amusement ride’ in front of Shanmei Inn.

We settled in, and while the rain was light, we followed our plan to hike about 1 km along the high road route in reverse, reaching the ‘Ice Powder’ spot and turned back as a warm-up. After the rain, Jade Dragon and Haba Mountains were shrouded in mist, presenting a different beauty. Everyone’s enthusiasm began to rise and stayed high throughout the 10-plus-day trip.

Across from us were Yachajiao Manor, Tea Horse Inn, and Shanmei Inn in order.

Rain, mud, high water – be careful.

Dog food: buy one get one free.

The scent of durian drifted over.

We chose Shanmei for hiking, so we didn’t have high expectations for conditions. Dinner and breakfast were at the inn, with plenty of hot water. In the middle of the first night, a line issue caused a village-wide power outage, but it was fixed before dark the next day. It didn’t affect us much, luckily we had our own gas stove and enough power banks.

7th: Started the high road hike at 11 a.m. The weather cooperated – cloudy, around 20°C. Halfway, a herd of cows blocked the path, and two bulls even started fighting. This situation wasn’t in any guidebook, and we didn’t know what to do, just waited. Fortunately, the cow owner was experienced. When he saw we hadn’t appeared at the pass ahead after so long, he came over to resolve it.

This cup of tea, how can you handle it?

Guanyin Waterfall (not sure of the exact name; any hikers confirm?).

Around 1 p.m., we reached HALF WAY for lunch (not expensive, average taste), took photos on the ‘Cool You Balcony,’ and paid a visit to the ‘World’s First Toilet.’ We continued. Under the sun, the scenery along the way was beautiful and colorful. At Guanyin Waterfall (we showed the innkeeper a photo, and she said it’s called Guanyin Waterfall; the road before the waterfall is narrowest and most dangerous), due to high water, the small path was flooded, and the gravel slope before the waterfall was also very dangerous (maybe a small landslide). So we turned back. Back at the midway inn, we had beer and coffee on the balcony bar. The shop there provided phone numbers for rental drivers. We called two cars (150 each) to take us back to Shanmei. This hike was actually less than 10 km, mostly flat, not too difficult. You could just bring a bottle of water.

The inn’s dinner was very good and not expensive. Everyone got along sincerely and harmoniously. We were very grateful to the inn. This inn also had a balcony with a good view, but without the internet-famous sunshade.

Shanmei’s signature braised chicken – delicious!

8th: After breakfast, we set off to Teacher Zhang Inn for a hike along its canyon route (15 yuan per person. There are three routes down to the valley floor: the other two are the ‘Sky Ladder Route’ and ‘One-Line Sky Route’). At the bottom, we took photos on the large rocks in the river. The water was very turbulent due to the closed scenic area. What a perfect time! We made full use of the drone.

Large rocks at the bottom of Teacher Zhang’s route. Over a dozen days later, this rocky dirt path was washed away.

At the bottom, there was a small suspension bridge connecting to the ‘Sky Ladder Route.’ Crossing to the other side required an additional fee. We told them we only wanted to go to their suspension bridge and return the same way, so they only charged 5 yuan per person. To go to the large rock in the river from the bridge, they charged another 10 yuan (we did it once during the Spring Festival 2019, but the water wasn’t as high. Highly recommended. That year, my son didn’t dare, but this time was different). On the way back, we climbed the 168-step Brave Clouds Ladder (10 yuan per person; the owner of the Sky Ladder turned out to be the driver who took us back to Shanmei from the midway inn the day before). The ladder was very steep, and with fatigue in the later part, the youngsters were far ahead. Luckily, the couple encouraged each other and slowly climbed to the top. This canyon floor hike took about 5 hours in total (including a lot of photo time). The horizontal distance was small, but the elevation change was huge, nearly reaching my physical limit.

Suspension bridge marking the boundary of two routes.

Bottom suspension bridge on the ‘Sky Ladder Route’ (2019).

Bottom suspension bridge on the ‘Sky Ladder Route’ (2023).

Sky ladder on the ‘Sky Ladder Route’ (2019).

Sky ladder on ‘Teacher Zhang’s Route’.

Map of high road and canyon hiking trails (taken at Teacher Zhang Inn).

Around 5 p.m., we returned to Teacher Zhang Inn for ‘lunch.’ Then we headed to Haba Village, deliberately passing through the lower Tiger Leaping Gorge where we used to cross to Daju Township. Now a new ‘Jinsha River Bridge’ has been built. We drove to the opposite side, and the drone started filming along the road, as if we were on Highway 318 (and later, we really did go!). Then we deliberately drove back through the lower Tiger Leaping Tunnel to the inn. The East Ring Road had been completely renovated over the years, making for a smooth drive. We arrived at ‘Shangri-La Haba Half Mountain Inn’ (recommended) before dark, preparing for the fourth stop: camping in Haba.

Coming from Teacher Zhang Inn, don’t enter the tunnel, keep right, and drive 6 km to Jinsha River Bridge to cross to Daju Township.

Rainbow on the East Ring Road near Haba.

This inn was mainly managed by the landlady. Brother Luosang was in charge of the Fanchende La Wild Luxury Camp. The landlady communicated with me in advance, confirming the number of people and dinner time. As soon as we arrived at the inn, the food was ready – it was delicious, with good color, aroma, and taste. Seeing that I brought wine, she even offered me a taste of a local liquor her best friend liked. The inn’s courtyard was large. At night, we smelled the fragrant braised beef brisket (for the next morning’s breakfast), listened to music, drank tea, and watched the landlady seriously instructing guests who were climbing Haba Snow Mountain the next day.

9th: In the morning, we finally met the busy Brother Luosang. After learning about the camp conditions, we thought it was great and decided to move in at noon. It was 9.5 km from the inn to the camp, on a narrow winding mountain road, with the last section on gravel. We drove slowly, taking about 90 minutes to reach the camp. The camp was on a half-mountain, high-altitude meadow – stunningly beautiful. After checking in, a boy named Yiyi at the camp clicked with us and voluntarily took us to pick porcini mushrooms. With an ‘expert’ leading us, we found some as big as fists. For the first time, everyone acted like young girls. Brother said it was the Torch Festival, and the camp slaughtered a goat for a mutton hotpot – fantastic. In the evening, the camp arranged a bonfire and fireworks, getting everyone excited again. The two kids even showed off their electronic device skills. If we had arrived earlier, we would have had time to ride horses to the alpine pastures and lakes.

Our collected porcini mushrooms.

The kids’ creative photo – guess how it was taken?

A porcini mushroom as big as a fist.

10th: It rained from midnight until morning, then the clouds and fog dissipated. The whole camp looked like a fairyland – worth every penny. We even saw the summit of Haba Snow Mountain.

Set off at 10 a.m. on the East Ring Road. Seeing the clear weather, we made a detour to Baishui Terrace, then went to Pudacuo National Park. Near Shangri-La, we asked our son to search online, and he recommended ‘Snowy Tibetan Hotpot Restaurant’ next to the old town. We had hotpot – highly recommend the yak hotpot and Tibetan fragrant pork.

Pudacuo Shudu Lake.

After dinner, we checked into ‘Shangri-La Xiangbai Tibetan Art Inn.’ On the first self-drive trip in 2018, we stayed in the old town. This time, we deliberately chose the Songzanlin Monastery area. The inn offered discounted tickets at 62 yuan per person (with the ticket, you can enter Songzanlin Monastery) and can be used for multiple days. The inn was run by the owner couple – very honest. Their two daughters were helping out during their vacation. If you want to have dinner there, remember to make a reservation. The inn faces Songzanlin Monastery, the courtyard has parking, rooms are spacious and nicely decorated – recommended.

11th: We went to Snowy Tibetan again for lunch. The spicy and sour trotter hotpot was also very good. We visited Dukezong again. Five years ago, I bought a tea set I really liked at ‘Wuchen.’ Shortly after returning home, someone broke the teapot. This time, I came deliberately looking for them. Their shop had moved. Luckily, we stumbled into their new store, and my wife recognized the owner (though she and her husband had put on a lot of weight). She had become a mother, changed a lot, lacking the previous carefree attitude of ‘buy if you like, or not.’ I even called my son in. The two families met with much emotion, chatting for over an hour before picking items and paying. Besides replacing the teapot (of course, someone was paying for it), I also picked up another one that my sister liked, as a birthday gift for her.

Searching for ‘Wuchen’ (the owner’s two sisters now run two stores of ‘Wuchen’ in the old town).

My son’s transformation from 2018 to 2023.

Above is the new teapot, bottom right is the old one. They don’t match perfectly, but the process of finding the shop was the real fun.

‘Delivered’ to my sister via Cai Cai’s family – a 2000 km delivery, just in time for the birthday.

After fulfilling a five-year wish, we invited Cai Cai’s family to ‘Xiaocai Coffee’ for coffee.

12th: In the morning, the couple walked around Songzanlin Monastery. After lunch, we set off for ‘Deqin Fragment My Homeland Meili Snow Mountain Mansion.’ Rainy and winding roads. We encountered two car accidents – really need to drive slower. We passed the ‘Oumiga’ Big Bend of the Jinsha River and stopped for photos. It’s now free, but that might not be a good thing – the restroom was too disgusting to use.

Viewing the Jinsha River ‘Oumiga’ Big Bend in the rain.

We ordered the menu with the inn in advance. Shortly after arriving at dusk, dinner was served – okay. The mansion was tastefully decorated, with luxurious facilities, a bit pricey. There were small high-rise hotels under construction on both sides – hopefully, the room rates will be lower then. Rain and fog; we couldn’t see the Golden Mountain.

Due to temporary work, Cai Cai’s family had to shorten their trip by one day and would return to Lugu Lake the next day. So we said goodbye.

The two families waved goodbye at the mansion gate (I can’t bear to see your back turned away from me...).

13th: According to the original plan, the next day we were supposed to visit the Thousand-Year Salt Wells and then officially start the return trip, staying one night at Feilai Temple. At 10 a.m., our family set off first. Soon the weather turned beautiful. We played my son’s favorite songs in the car, driving on the road to Ninong Valley (we chose not to go to Feilai Temple; I wanted to see the zip line at Ninong Valley and the entrance to Yubeng). Suddenly, the feeling hit me. I thought for a moment: today is only Sunday; we still have a full week. Why not go to Highway 318? As soon as I mentioned it, my wife and son agreed. We stopped to check the navigation – all clear. So we happily made this spontaneous decision (we missed the sunrise golden mountain on August 14th). The feeling of being able to change plans so suddenly was incredibly enjoyable.

After driving for half an hour, we crossed Ninong Bridge and saw the abandoned Ninong suspension bridge and zip line. I had been watching this spot on the map for a long time. This time I deliberately came – it was spectacular. Not far ahead was the turnoff to Yubeng.

When using my phone at night, I always checked local videos on ‘Douyin’ for useful information. Last night, I saw that the G214 Gusui section had a mudslide, but it was said to be repaired that night. When we passed at noon today, there was single-lane traffic, and we were stuck for less than 30 minutes – pretty lucky. At 1:30, we entered the Mangkang area, entering Tibet! Further ahead was the Changdu Public Security checkpoint in Tibet; just swipe ID cards.

At 2 p.m., we arrived at the famous ‘Yanjing Authentic One Mouth Noodle Shop,’ 30 yuan per person, all you can eat. The record on the wall was 147 bowls. The waiters sang and danced, enthusiastically urging ‘add one, add one.’ For each added bowl, you take a stone from the basket on the table to count. The noodles were ordinary, but the experience was very enjoyable – recommended.

After that, we visited the Catholic church in Yanjing and the Thousand-Year Salt Wells, then set off for Mangkang. Arrived at 6 p.m. and chose a hotel on the main road: ‘Mangkang Baijing Hotel’ – we checked it first, 250 yuan per night, clean and tidy, with a large courtyard for parking downstairs. We ordered a few stir-fries at the shop across the street and returned to the hotel to sleep.

14th: Set off at 6:30 a.m. Passed an intersection I had seen on the map many times. Stopped to look and felt that one day I would turn left here (entering Tibet).

This time I turned right.

Visited Cuopugou Scenic Area – a wonderful surprise, highly recommended. It turns out you can drive in, but you need to reserve one day in advance through the scenic area’s mini-program. We didn’t know, so we booked tickets on Ctrip and took the shuttle from the visitor center. There were very few tourists. We rode 13 km to reach the inside; the road was being built, taking about half an hour. The weather was perfect. The Zhangde Grassland, set against the majestic Zhajin Jiabo Snow Mountain in the background, was colorful and spectacular. Instantly, I felt we had made the right choice. Plus, there was a Highway 318 signpost – very atmospheric. The shuttle only went to Cuopu Lake. From there, you could take an electric cart to the top at Cuopu Temple, then walk down to see the two smaller lakes and Cuopu Lake. It completely surpassed Pudacuo and could rival Jiuzhaigou.

We set off for Litang at 4 p.m. The scenery along the original road was stunning. We passed Twin Lakes on the way and checked into Litang Thousand-House Tibetan Village Hotel, right on the main road with parking in front. We had snail noodles for dinner delivered. Being the ‘City of the Sky,’ it was natural to have some altitude sickness – only I had a headache. The hotel had an oxygen machine; I slept with it on and was fine the next morning.

15th: Set off at 7 a.m. At the Tiantu 18 Bends, we were stuck for half an hour due to many cars parked on the roadside and some driving against traffic. Other sections were smooth. Passing Kangding Airport, we happened to see a plane landing. Zheduo Mountain was crowded and foggy – no stop. Arrived at Kangding Love Song Square around 3 p.m. No parking on the riverside road; we parked inside. Took a photo, ate hotpot, and headed to Dujiangyan. Checked into Bailun International Hotel (two nights, recommended) at 8 p.m. Had dinner at the mall downstairs.

16th: Finally, we could enjoy a nice breakfast. The hotel’s breakfast was okay; the couple lingered for two hours. Then we went to the hotel pool. Maybe coming down from the plateau made us stronger; we swam without feeling tired. At 1 p.m., we went out to find food, deliberately going to Dujiangyan Avenue Section 3, where we saw many restaurants last night. We chose ‘Fuyao’ – the hotpot was unbeatable, superb. Then we visited Yangtianwo Square and Dujiangyan Scenic Area.

17th: Today we accompanied my wife and son to see pandas (I stopped going to see pandas years ago, but now they’re popular again). The reservation made the night before only had the afternoon session, which was perfect – we could have another two-hour breakfast. Set off at 11 a.m. for Chengdu Giant Panda Breeding Research Base. We chose the west gate – fewer people and cars. The base was huge; an electric cart was a must. After two and a half hours, we headed to Chengdu and checked into the Shangri-La Hotel. Only after checking in did we realize that tomorrow our vehicle would be restricted by the odd-even license plate rule. So the three of us extended for another night.

18th: Went to Taikoo Li at noon. Didn’t drive – taxis are cheap. Had Xiaolongkan hotpot, then went shopping. Spent a lot at the ‘Fruit Shop,’ and my son was very happy. Returned to the hotel for afternoon tea at the top floor (as part of the Horizon Club benefits) – good quality and plenty of drinks and snacks; we treated it as dinner. Then we walked to Dongmen Pier for a night cruise on the Jin River. The service in Sichuan was excellent – definitely deserved praise.

19th: Formally set off on the road home. Left at 10 a.m., checked into Zunyi Guizhou Hotel at 5 p.m. The buffet was 128 yuan per person – very good.

20th: Left at 8 a.m. The couple drove in shifts. We returned to Guangzhou in 12.5 hours. Total distance: 5,200 km. Successful and perfect.