Climbing High Peaks, Flying on Cliffs: A Journey Through the 7 Major Cliff-Hanging Roads of the Southern Taihang
Peaks and valleys rise abruptly with sheer cliffs, villages perched isolated on mountain summits.
A myth crosses through the ages, the power to break through walls carved into the red stone cliffs.
Here, a series of peak walls suddenly rise from the plains,
hundred-meter abysses block the mountain people from stepping out of the mountains,
continuous mountain ranges obstruct the view of outsiders.
The Southern Taihang, a place not yet widely noticed by travelers.
Through empty mountains and deep valleys, there is a unique self-driving route in China. On this road for the brave, rediscover the Taihang:
Fly on the cliff roads to feel the thrill of traversing peaks;
Climb high ridges to appreciate the majestic vastness of the Taihang.
In June 2019, we spent 9 days, self-driving and hiking, crossing 7 cliff-hanging roads from north to south (Pingshun Hongtiguan Cliff-Hanging Road, Pingshun Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road, Huixian Guoliang Cliff-Hanging Road, Pingshun Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road, Lingchuan Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road, Lingchuan Xiyagou Cliff-Hanging Road, Huixian Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road), drove 1 Taihang Sky Road (Xijingshan Sky Road), visited 11 ancient Taihang villages (Chian Village, Hongni Village, Xijingshan Village, Yuejiazhai, Xigou Village, Jingdi Village, Guoliang Village, Kunshan Village, Xiyagou Village, Huilong Village, Baodu Village), and toured 5 Taihang scenic areas (Zhangjiawa Scenic Area, Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, Wangmangling Scenic Area, Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area, Qiligou Scenic Area). This is known as a self-driving road for the brave, one of the most popular self-driving routes in China.
day1: Handan—Chian Village—Hongqiqu Luositan—Hongtiguan Township—Hongtiguan Cliff-Hanging Road—Hongni Village (260KM by car)
day2: Hongni Village—Taihang Sky Road—Xijingshan Village—Yuejiazhai (40KM by car)
day3: Yuejiazhai—Hongtiguan Township—Dongsitou Township—Xigou Village—Cliff-Hanging Road Viewing Platform—Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road—Jingdi Village (100KM by car)
day4: Halouti, Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road (12KM hike), Jingdi Village—Zhangjiawa Scenic Area (5KM hike)—Jingdi Village (50KM by car)
day5: Jingdi Village—Shibanyan Town—Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area—Guoliang Cliff-Hanging Road (3KM hike)—Guoliang Village (110KM by car)
day6: Guoliang Village—Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road—Wangmangling Scenic Area (95KM by car)
day7: Wangmangling Scenic Area—Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road—Kunshan Village—Xiyagou Cliff-Hanging Road—Xiyagou Village—Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area (50KM by car)
day8: Huancheng Gallery (10KM hike), Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area—Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road—Huilong Village—Baligou Scenic Area—Baodu Village (8KM hike) (30KM by car)
day9: Baodu Village—Baligou Scenic Area (10KM hike)—Handan (260KM by car)
Clothing: Mountain area is 5°C cooler than plains, moderate warmth required.
Food: Northern common farmhouse meals, about 100 yuan per person per day.
Accommodation: Taihang farmyard, daily twin room 60-100 yuan. No reservation needed at destinations, sufficient rooms.
Road conditions: Cars can travel the entire route. All county and township roads in Pingshun are being upgraded to tourism road standards (completed by 2019). Xijingshan Sky Road and Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road are narrow and high, requiring cautious driving and not suitable for wide or long vehicles. Distances between destinations are short, pay attention to refueling.
Navigation: Adjust route as needed. Navigate by itinerary nodes while driving. Use cycling navigation mode for Xijingshan Sky Road.
Passing through cliff-hanging roads: Hongtiguan, Jingdi, Chenjiayuan can be driven freely. Kunshan and Xiyagou are within Wangmangling Scenic Area, Guoliang is in Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, Huilong is in Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area. These 4 scenic area cliff-hanging roads can be experienced by scenic shuttle. If driving in, special approval from scenic area is needed. Guoliang has strict restrictions, the only one we couldn't drive into.
Medicine: Mountain areas prone to bumps, bring disinfectant and bandages.
Seasonal scenery: Summer rain and fog, autumn colorful leaves, winter snow.
Route evaluation: Rarity 5, Excitement 5, Wilderness 4, Scenery 4, Comfort 3.
day1: 2019.6.16
Today's journey starts from the ancient city Handan, heading west through the Fukou Pass, one of the eight Taihang passes, into the Taihang mountains. In Chian Village, She County, and Shicheng, Pingshun, we trace two Taihang spirits, then cross the first cliff-hanging road of the trip—the most wild Hongtiguan Cliff-Hanging Road, experiencing the wonder and vicissitudes among high mountains, finally arriving at Hongni Village perched on the cliff edge.
Hezhang Township, at the junction of Shanxi, Hebei, and Henan, is where the Qingzhang and Zhuozhang Rivers meet.
The Qingzhang River flows gently from north to south through She County, Hebei; the Zhuozhang River runs from west to east across Pingshun, Shanxi; they converge at Hezhang Township to form the Zhang River, which then flows east into the Haihe River system.
Along the two rivers above Hezhang Township lie the birthplaces of two great Taihang spirits: the anti-Japanese battlefield of the 129th Division of the Eighth Route Army and the famous Red Flag Canal. The 129th Division during the Anti-Japanese War was like an iron wall, a symbol of tenacity and unyielding spirit, while the Red Flag Canal embodies the Taihang people's spirit of breaking through walls to transform heaven and earth.
This tall and wide city gate is the image gate of the old revolutionary area She County, also called General Gate. Its bright red color is the basic hue of She County's culture and all-for-one tourism. The hundred-mile scenic belt formed by the Qingzhang River is called the 'Taihang Red River Valley'.
Nine thousand soldiers entered She County, three hundred thousand troops emerged from the Taihang. The sweet Zhang River water nourished Liu Deng's army, allowing them to accumulate merits here. Eventually this illustrious corps, with a strong lineup of 2 marshals and 364 generals, stepped into the gate of New China. From General Gate to General Avenue in Chian Village, there is a several-kilometer-long mountain sculpture corridor. Vivid scenes reproduce the heroic battles of the 129th Division led by commanders Liu and Deng in She County during the five-year Anti-Japanese War.
On the north hill of the 129th Division Headquarters site in Chian Village is General Ridge, inscribed by Deng Xiaoping. Because the ashes of Marshal Liu, Marshal Xu, and many 129th Division generals are scattered here, it has become the place outside Beijing's Babaoshan that buries the most generals of the Republic. These generals gathered in Chian in their time and returned to the Taihang in spirit after death.
The Red Flag Canal is a man-made heavenly river suspended on the sheer cliffs of the Taihang Mountains. During the 10 years of the 1960s, the poor farmers of Lin County split 1,250 mountain peaks, drilled 180 tunnels, built 150 aqueducts, excavated 25 million cubic meters of earth and stone, and constructed the Red Flag Canal irrigation system with a total length of 4,000 kilometers of main canal, branch canals, and ditches. Premier Zhou once proudly told international friends: 'New China has two wonders: one is the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, the other is the Lin County Red Flag Canal.'
People all know this feat of Lin County, Henan, but most don't know that the canal head and half of the main canal are in Pingshun, Changzhi, Shanxi. Back then, Secretary Yang Gui of Lin County led tens of thousands of laborers to split mountains and dig canals. They lived in Shanxi farmhouses, chiseled Shanxi mountains, and diverted the Zhuozhang River from Shanxi. The canal head of the Red Flag Canal is under Houbi Duan in Shicheng, Pingshun. The Lin County people built a dam there to intercept the water and channel the Zhang River into the Red Flag Canal. We walked onto the canal dam. On one side was the canal water, on the other side the ten-meter-deep Zhuozhang River. Although the red stone canal dam was extremely solid, walking on the long dam made us feel dizzy and our legs weak.
Hongtiguan is an ancient road from Shanxi to Henan, historically a merchant route for mule caravans and a strategic military fortress. It is said that when the Japanese invaders came to inspect the terrain, they looked up at the steep ridges and retreated. The few who tried to climb were driven away by militia rolling stones. Today the ancient pass sleeps, its traffic function replaced by the cliff-hanging road ahead, becoming a walking trail for nostalgia and fitness. Though the pass is filled with banners, few people explore it. We were in a hurry and passed quickly in the twilight.
Finally we saw the entrance of the Hongtiguan Cliff-Hanging Road. The hundred-meter sheer cliff and pitch-black cave sent shivers down our spines.
Construction of the Hongtiguan Cliff-Hanging Road began in 1968. People tired of the rugged mountain paths decided to build a road to take cars to the county town. Longing for a new life, they gathered and discussed, and with unanimous support, led by the village party secretary and village head, 800 villagers brought their own bedding, set up stoves and tents in the mountains. In two years, using primitive tools like iron bars and hammers, they dug 5 tunnels, leveled 7 mountain ridges, filled 3 large ravines, and opened this 12-kilometer-long road in the cliff.
This is a wild cliff-hanging road. Above, sheer cliffs scrape the sky; below, deep canyon abyss. Inside the cave it's dark, the walls rugged, the road pitted and bumpy with sand and dirt. As the wheels rolled, we heard crunching sounds and dust flew. Driving the cliff-hanging road for the first time, we experienced its wonder and vicissitudes amidst the jolts.
This cliff-hanging road has been designated County Road 670, also called Zhanghe Line. The road width allows passing, and there are guardrails on the cliff side, so driving safety is fine, but beware of falling rocks and sharp stones that could puncture tires.
Driving slowly in the cave, through the side windows we could see the Hongtiguan Tunnel exit of the Changping Expressway below. This tunnel, 13,200 meters long, ranks sixth in the country.
Three generations of passages in the same frame. This is a sigh-inducing scene: the hoofbeats of mule caravans of old, the hammer blows of mountain splitting 50 years ago, the roar of tunnel boring machines from 10 years ago seem to echo in the high mountains and valleys. Though their frequencies differ, each was the strongest voice of its era. The ancient road on the mountaintop has long been buried in grass, the cliff-hanging road is nearly abandoned due to the expressway, and only the tunnel-bridge expressway at the foot leads outside the mountains, connecting to the network as a heavenly road.
day2: 2019.6.17
Today's journey: first, carefully admire the artistic cliffside ancient village of Hongni, then climb along the steep cliff to the mountaintop, take the thrilling Taihang Sky Road, experience the tragic heroism of descendants struggling to survive, visit a 'cliff school' in Xijingshan, and finally reach the heavenly family outside the Taihang depths—Yuejiazhai.
This is the panoramic window of our Hongni Inn. The Hongni River falls from the window into the canyon. If lucky, you can see the eastern dawn after rain.
In the dry season, the Hongni River becomes a calm lake beside the village, reflecting the village and mountains, giving the rugged Taihang mountain village a touch of Jiangnan water town elegance.
On the roadside about 300-500 meters opposite the inn is the spot to see Hongni Village's iconic view. Hongni is known as 'ancient village on the cliff.' From here, the whole village seems suspended on a hundred-meter-high cliff.
When the river swells in the rainy season, it pours down the cliff, forming a wide, tall, thunderous waterfall. The falling water creates layers of mist, which, when refracting sunlight, forms beautiful rainbows and colorful halos, hence the name 'Hongni' (rainbow and halo).
Hongni Village is a place with sentiment. Historically a merchant post on the Shanxi-Henan ancient road, today it is a protected traditional ancient village. The Minghui Master Pagoda in the village is the treasure of Hongni. It is the stupa of Master Minghui of Haihui Temple. This original square stone pagoda from the Five Dynasties period is the only one of its kind in China, cited as a model in 'History of Ancient Chinese Architecture.'
Mountain people always seem full of passion for building roads. During our two days in Pingshun, almost all roads we traveled were under heavy construction. They are upgrading all township roads into beautiful tourism roads.
The mountain road from Hongni Village through Xijingshan to Yuejiazhai is called the Taihang Sky Road. Winding over several ridges with countless bends, the thrill reaches new heights.
This is a simple winding mountain road over 20 kilometers long. Almost the entire way is only one and a half car widths wide, especially the towering cliffs on both sides and the unprotected hundred-meter abyss, which is visually terrifying. The biggest worry is meeting an oncoming car, requiring one to reverse to a wider spot to pass—even more difficult and dangerous. We didn't expect this road to be so treacherous. We were terrified the whole way, forcing ourselves not to let our hands go weak or our eyes wander.
High mountains, deep valleys, sharp bends, steep slopes—this is a natural testing ground for driving skills. Locals say: if you haven't driven the Taihang Sky Road, you can't call yourself an old driver. Driving the Sky Road tests not only skill but also mentality. Acrophobes should proceed with caution.
Infinite scenery at the perilous peaks. The road to Xijingshan is steep, but it's a great place for summer cloud seas and autumn colorful leaves, a landscape gallery beloved by painters and photographers.
Xijingshan Village on the high mountain top consists of 12 scattered natural villages. We came here mainly because of a school that once drew wide media attention: a 'cliff school' at 1400 meters altitude on a cliff edge, with one teacher and three students.
At lunch, we asked the innkeeper about the school. He pointed to two photos and a girl beside him, saying the three girls in the online story were his daughters. The oldest two had gone to boarding school downhill, leaving only the youngest at the cliff school. Unfortunately, the teacher had gone downhill for the weekend, but the girl had the school key.
The playground and classroom are built on the edge of a hundred-meter cliff. The mountain children don't find it dangerous, only outsiders are surprised. Whether specially visiting or passing by, tourists come to see the teacher and children. Little Shi Peiyao sits behind her desk every day, listening to one-on-one teaching. In two years she will also go to boarding school downhill. If there are no younger children on the mountain, the 'cliff school' may become history.
Stopping and going, we took 6 hours to finish the 35-kilometer Taihang Sky Road, entered the gate of Yuejiazhai, and looked into the distance. A stone fortress with Yue family banners was hidden in the embrace of surrounding mountains. Yuejiazhai is built on a fault platform of the mountain, with layered houses, majestic and extraordinary. It is known as the 'Taihang Village in the Sky.'
The villagers of Yuejiazhai are descendants of the hero Yue Fei. After Yue Fei was framed and killed, fearing execution of all relatives, they fled from Tangyin, Henan, to this place. They hid their identities, calling themselves 'Xia Shihao' publicly, but internally 'Yuejiazhai' to remember their heroic ancestor, hoping one day to serve the country with loyalty again.
This is an astonishing stone kingdom. The descendants of heroes from the plains learned to split mountains and build stone houses, creating an alternative home on the Taihang summit.
The most distinctive feature of the village houses is the stone slabs on the roofs. These stone houses are indestructible, sheltering from wind and rain, cool in summer and warm in winter, blending naturally with the environment—the most beautiful scenery in the Taihang Mountains.
This is a 300-year-old stone-courtyard house. Firewood piled in the corner, sundries around, the house old and low, the yard filled with vicissitudes, time seemingly frozen. Only the owner's busy figure continues the vitality of this ancient courtyard. This is where generations of Yue family lived and multiplied, and should be Yuejiazhai's most valuable tourism resource.
This thousand-year-old Chinese pistache tree has a divine status. Legend says that Yue Fei's third son Yue Lin fled here. In a dream, a mysterious scene occurred: this tree turned into a white-haired old man saying, 'As long as I am here, the Yue descendants will exist.' Yue Lin realized this was a blessing for loyal descendants and ordered the tree to be well cared for. For thousands of years, the whole village has safely passed countless wars and disasters. Grateful, the villagers burn incense and worship on festivals.
This old supply cooperative is a signature attraction of Yuejiazhai. The shop owners, Yue Wanzeng and his wife, are old county-level model workers. The walls covered with certificates record their life over 50 years. The cooperative's mission of purchasing and selling has long ended; it now primarily serves as a display, with some sales. This photo of old Yue Wanzeng is an award-winning work by a photographer. The old man likes it very much and hung it on a prominent wall.
Yuejiazhai's thousand-year seclusion has been broken. The Yue family flag flutters in the wind. As fame grows, villagers have vacated unused stone houses, turning them into cliffside inns and restaurants for tourists. Times change, and this original ecological village is a scarce resource. City leaders are planning a grand blueprint for Yuejiazhai's development.
day3: 2019.6.18
Today's journey: descend from the western route of the Taihang Sky Road, go to Xigou Village to visit a century-old figure, listen to her life story spanning 70 years, then overlook a row of cave windows carved on the cliff from the mountain top, drive through the second cliff-hanging road—the most scenic Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road, finally descend into a beautiful village as deep as a well.
The western route of the Taihang Sky Road is also winding around mountains, but much safer than the eastern route. It is being widened and paved with asphalt, soon allowing medium buses. The distinction between east and west is good: one is a wild adventure road, the other a sightseeing tourism road.
Xigou Village became famous in the 1940s and 1950s around the founding of the People's Republic. At that time, peasant party member Li Shunda organized mutual aid cooperatives, young woman Shen Jilan advocated equal pay for equal work between men and women. Chairman Mao wrote a lengthy comment for Li Shunda's cooperative, and the Republic wrote Shen Jilan's proposal of equal pay for equal work into the first constitution. Li Shunda and Shen Jilan are known as the 'Two Heroes of Xigou.'
Shen Jilan is one of the 60 most influential national model workers in New China. With 70 years of model worker experience, she was elected to all 13 National People's Congresses. She is hailed as a 'living fossil' witnessing China's people's congress system.
Shen Jilan warmly received us. At 90 years old, she appeared healthy, sharp-minded, kind, and approachable. She enthusiastically told us about the hardships of starting their cause, recalled meetings with leaders, and advised us to follow the Party, welcoming us to visit her hometown.
We were honored to meet this legendary figure on our trip. Three months later, she received the Republic Medal from President Xi Jinping, as expected. A year later, we were shocked to learn that she fell ill and passed away while attending the National People's Congress. Xigou Village thus bid farewell to the Li-Shen era.
Viewing the cliff-hanging road on the cliff from a height is even more stunning. This viewing platform on Shiyu Line is the best spot to appreciate the exterior of Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road. On the 200-meter-high cliff, the 39 side windows of the Jingdi tunnel are like periods and dashes, clearly outlining the tunnel's course on the cliff.
The cliff-hanging road is a peculiar road form created by the Taihang people. Locals call it 'cave' or 'tunnel.' Southern Taihang cliff-hanging roads should have the following features: organized by villagers (village cadres), using primitive tools such as hammers, steel bars, and homemade explosives (no machinery, no funds), carved along the cliff edge (unable to penetrate the mountain), with side windows (for waste disposal during construction and lighting after operation), benefiting the local villagers (allowing them to travel out by car).
Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road was a feat completed over 15 years. At the time, 50 strong village men formed the pioneering team. They made their own explosives, prepared their own tools, brought their own food, and with heroic passion, swung hammers to wage war on the mountain. During the long Foolish Old Man-style construction, over 800 villagers joined the battle, and five villagers lost their lives, ultimately achieving this 1,526-meter cliff-hanging road.
Today is a good day. The loudspeakers in the village below are playing festive music. More than a dozen cars decorated with red ribbons drove in a file through the cliff-hanging road towards the outside.
Jingdi Village, a landscape-like garden, is located in the southeast corner of Pingshun County, with Henan just below. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the village feels like being at the bottom of a well covered with a lid, hence the rare name 'Jingdi' (bottom of a well). Above Jingdi is Tianji Mountain, below is Wangxiangyan. The village has Tianpu Gorge and the Cliff-Hanging Road. Once poor, relying on mountain and water resources, it has become a 'National Characteristic Landscape Tourism Famous Village.' The local government is integrating nearby tourism resources with ambitious goals: short-term to surpass Yuntai Mountain, medium-term to catch up with Jiuzhaigou, and ultimate goal to enter the world's top-tier tourist scenic areas.
Xiangyun Lake in the village is fresh, refined, and crystal clear. It is a beautiful lake formed by a dam blocking mountain springs.
Cross the suspension bridge over the lake to reach the opposite shore. The house built against the cliff is called 'Cliff Dwelling.' Its interior walls are sheer rock. These unique wooden cabins are famous far and wide, a great place to experience cave dwelling and rustic charm.
Actually, the cliff cabin may not be comfortable to live in; the stone walls emit cold air. Villager Old Zhang's Taihang Valley Farm is quite splendid, absolutely not inferior to a three-star city hotel, with excellent value for money—about 100 yuan for a luxury standard room with a viewing platform.
Old Zhang's fish cooking skill is really good—excellent in quality, color, taste, form, and vessel.
day4: 2019.6.19
Today, we become hikers. Climb the 'Halouti' that Jingdi people used to leave the mountains, experience the hardship of no roads; hike through the Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road, admire the Taihang patterns framed by the side windows; drive to Zhangjiawa, ascend to the top of the Taihang, gaze eastward at the North China Plain.
To find out why Jingdi people risked their lives to build the cliff-hanging road, you must walk the 'Halouti.' The 'Halouti' was carved in the early Qing Dynasty. From the village bottom to the moon bridge on the hilltop, there are 15,000 steps. It was the most convenient passage for villagers to leave Jingdi.
Looking at this tall mountain, the faint, nearly vertical path on the cliff made our hearts tremble. After Old Zhang repeatedly assured us it was absolutely safe, we decided to climb. The mountain path was steep and long. Carrying our gear, we climbed, panting heavily. Then we understood the origin of 'Halouti,' the difficulty of mountain villagers traveling, and why Jingdi people risked death to carve the tunnel.
Along the 'Halouti' route, there are also viewpoints to see the exterior of the cliff-hanging road. Compared to the viewing platform we visited yesterday, although lower, it's closer, allowing a clearer view inside the cave.
We reached the Moon Bridge in 3 hours. Here, the cliff-hanging road and the Halouti meet—the two routes out of the mountains converge. In the past, villagers took 3 hours to go out; now driving through takes only 10 minutes. The view through the Moon Bridge is an iconic scene of Jingdi, but today the picture lacked floating clouds, tree colors, or winter snow. The few rocks in the upper left resemble a camel, a rooster, and a dog, which locals say represent the Jingdi people's endurance, trustworthiness, and loyalty.
Viewed horizontally as ridges, sideways as peaks, the surrounding mountains also have various shapes. Villagers say many mountain gods here protect Jingdi.
The Jingdi Cliff-Hanging Road should not be so understated. Whether in terms of driving experience or scenic appreciation, among the seven cliff-hanging roads, it should rank second only to Kunshan. Yesterday we drove through Jingdi cliff-hanging road in a flash; today we walk again to thoroughly appreciate the masterpiece of Jingdi people.
The tunnel winds along the mountain in an elegant arc. The irregular side windows let in light, creating varied light and shadow inside.
The side windows are like picture frames, framing the majestic Taihang peaks.
Although the road surface is excellent, danger can strike. One section of the road had collapsed by one-third; the iconic large stone inscribed 'Sky Road into the Clouds' on the cave roof had also fallen.
Old Zhang is a good man. Seeing we hadn't returned by 1 PM, he drove to the cave entrance to pick us up.
In the afternoon, we went to Zhangjiawa. We knew it was a favorite of painters. Old Zhang said it's just a pile of rocks, nothing special. But when we arrived at dusk, we felt we were late—even a full day wouldn't be enough. There is indeed a large area of rocks, neatly aligned in rows with paths between them. The rocks are very white and clean, as if washed with water.
This is a group of sheer cliffs. Plank roads leap to cliff tops or extend into the abyss. Standing at different positions on the plank roads, one sees ridges stacked, pillars plunging into valleys, and walls of peaks blocking the view. The grandeur of the Taihang Mountains is breathtaking.
The winding mountain road in the distance is probably the Taihang Sky Road around Shibanyan, Henan. Although also winding, it's a scenic road. Compared to the Xijingshan Sky Road, it lacks the same level of height, wildness, and thrill.
The 800-li Taihang takes a leap here, forming the majestic northern scenery dominating the peaks. Climbing to the pavilion on the Zhangjiawa summit and looking east, the Henan plain stretches out without obstruction.
Today's exercise was a bit excessive—nearly 20 km of hiking, all uphill. We are not professional hikers, and our legs felt heavy. But everything we experienced was unprecedented, a state of fatigue mixed with joy and excitement.
day5: 2019.6.20
Today's journey descends from the high ridges of Shanxi to the plains of Henan, heading south to Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, hike through the third cliff-hanging road—the most famous Guoliang Cliff-Hanging Road, and ask the cliffside elders why they split the mountains to build the road.
Leaving Jingdi, we enter the territory of Lin County, Henan. Along the way are the famous Taihang Grand Canyon Scenic Area and the Shibanyan Supply Cooperative, the birthplace of the 'pole-carrying spirit'—a must-visit for passersby.
The 100 km from Jingdi to Guoliang are mostly on plains. We arrived at the visitor center parking lot below Guoliang around lunchtime. The three-story building beside it, Yangyang Hotel, became our accommodation. A banner out front advertised free parking and meals at 28 yuan per person—a result of competition with Guoliang Village uphill.
The famous Guoliang is called Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area. The stone pillars on distant peaks look like celestial beings standing on mountain tops, giving the area its name 'Wanxian Mountain' (Ten Thousand Immortals).
Currently, the tourism resources in this region are uniformly managed by Xinxiang Southern Taihang Tourism Company. Guoliang Cliff-Hanging Road is just one of many scenic spots in the area. Among the seven major Southern Taihang cliff-hanging roads, four (Guoliang, Kunshan, Xiyagou, Huilong) are enclosed within scenic areas. Guoliang was the only one we couldn't drive into. Even if you plan to stay in Guoliang village, you must take the scenic shuttle to the cave entrance, then drag your luggage through Guoliang Cave to enter the village.
Occasional vehicles inside the cave belong to villagers or scenic area staff.
Without vehicles coming and going, tourists can stroll leisurely. Compared to the other six cliff-hanging roads, the red rock makes Guoliang Cave appear relatively 'luxurious.' The wide side windows make the cave bright, and the crowds make it less terrifying. However, the sense of wildness and danger inherent in cliff-hanging roads is somewhat diminished.
The movie 'Raise Your Hands!' made Guoliang famous nationwide and introduced this peculiar road type in the Taihang Mountains. Near the cliffside homes, there are several viewpoints to see the exterior of Guoliang Cave. The scene where Guo Da drives an oxcart out of the cave was filmed right here.
The people of Guoliang on the high mountain traditionally walked goat trails and climbed ladders up and down, enduring road hardship for generations. In 1972, a commando team of 13 strong men faced the cliff, raised their fists, and vowed to chisel through the cliff. The village sold goats and yams to buy steel bars and hammers. They swung hammers, drilled holes, and opened a tunnel on the red stone cliff, creating a cliff corridor.
Only two or three of the original strong men remain. They sit all day at the door of their old house, watching visitors from afar, showcasing their past feat. When asked why they built the road, Shen Chunfu, one of the 13 warriors, simply said: 'So there would be no more bachelors in the village.'
day6: 2019.6.21
Today's journey: first, view the Shanxi cliff-hanging road from Henan, then drive through the fourth cliff-hanging road—the most photogenic Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road, finally ascend Wangmangling to enjoy the layered peaks surrounded by green sea in the Shanxi-Henan border area.
To re-enter Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, you need to register at the ticket checkpoint the previous day. Reaching Danfen Village deep in the area requires two shuttle rides totaling 40 minutes. Danfen Village is exceptionally serene. Many elderly city dwellers spend summer here, living and eating with villagers, often staying one or two months.
We came to Danfen mainly to get a distant view of Shanxi's Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road's exterior. On the 500-meter-high cliff face opposite, 148 tunnel side windows in a row are spectacular, like a train struggling to climb the mountain. This made us anticipate tomorrow's crossing.
Originally, Guoliang and Kunshan cliff-hanging roads face each other across two mountains, connected by a few kilometers of mountain road. But Guoliang scenic area prohibits private cars, so we had to detour 100 km to Wangmangling. However, the detour passes by Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road, making it a reasonable route.
Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road differs from the others. It was not built by farmers spontaneously. If we say the Southern Taihang has six major cliff-hanging roads, Chenjiayuan would be excluded. In ancient times, a goat path hung on the cliff here. The cliffs were sheer, mountains high, sky narrow, and deaths on the passage were common. In 1968, the state invested to connect Shanxi and Henan, calling it a military road. In 1990, the state invested again to expand it, calling it Linghui Road, a provincial-level transportation artery. For some unknown disagreement between the two provinces, we saw road barriers at the provincial border that only small cars could barely pass—perhaps to prevent heavy trucks from damaging the beautiful tourism roads.
Chenjiayuan is hailed as the most photogenic because it was carved alongside a reservoir. The cliff and clear lake water complement each other, creating a beautiful water-side cliff road. However, due to this year's drought, the reservoir water level was very low.
It also has a nickname 'Flying Waterfall Corridor.' It is said that during the rainy season, waterfalls fall directly at the cave entrance. Unfortunately, we didn't see that, but we did see a beautiful water curtain cave inside.
The most remarkable feature of Chenjiayuan Cliff-Hanging Road is that it has two levels. Unable to find an authoritative explanation, we inferred: the original road was low and narrow, only passable by small vehicles. To allow heavy trucks to transport coal to Henan, Shanxi deepened and widened the original cave. The decades-old cave section here might have safety issues, so they chose to dig a new one below and to the side.
Wangmangling is 1,700 meters above sea level, the highest peak of the Southern Taihang. Its sea of clouds, strange peaks, pine waves, and waterfalls form the most magnificent natural landscape of the 800-li Taihang. We entered not for sightseeing but to cross the two cliff-hanging roads managed by the scenic area: Kunshan to the north of the main peak and Xiyagou to the south. The village Yingpan within the scenic area is full of tourist accommodations. We chose to stay at Yuebin Inn.
Looking north from Wangmangling, the vast Taihang is majestic. The cluster of buildings below right is Danfen Village we visited in the morning. The faint road on the left is Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road. The saddle in the middle is the Shanxi-Henan border gully.
From another angle, Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road looks like a knife cut on the mountain. A group of jeeps was preparing to drive towards Kunshan.
day7: 2019.6.22
Today's journey: first cross the fifth cliff-hanging road—the most thrilling Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road, visit a village-level 'museum' in Kunshan Village, then cross the sixth cliff-hanging road—the most stunning Xiyagou Cliff-Hanging Road, learn about Xiyagou's future development plan in the village, finally enter Henan's Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area.
Kunshan is a small village hanging on the mountainside, floating in the clouds. Above and below are sheer cliffs. In the past, only a winding mountain path carved in the cliff crevice led to Shanxi. The path was so dangerous that only strong young men could climb, and countless people have fallen to the 300-meter abyss throughout history.
Unlike neighboring Guoliang and Xiyagou, Kunshan people did not rashly declare war on the mountains. They endured until good times came. In 1992, Shanxi implemented the 'Village Access Project' and decided to open a southward passage to Shanxi for Kunshan villagers on the north side of Wangmangling. Otherwise, Kunshan's sense of belonging to Shanxi would weaken, and villagers could easily go to Henan through Guoliang Cave.
Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road was carved around this 500-meter cliff. Although government-funded, local villagers still participated. First, ropes were fixed on the mountaintop to lower workers to the mountainside to chisel side windows and work surfaces. Then large numbers of workers entered the side windows to carry out construction. The terrain was complex and extremely difficult, but under government leadership, the 7-kilometer Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road, including a 3-kilometer tunnel, was completed in just 2 years. This 3-kilometer tunnel with 148 side windows ranks first among all cliff-hanging roads.
Kunshan cliff-hanging road is known for its danger, narrowness, lowness, and steepness, offering the most thrilling driving experience. Vehicle types are strictly limited: length, width, height must not exceed 4.3m, 1.8m, 1.8m. The narrow tunnel is only one car wide; a slight distraction will scrape against protruding rocks on both sides. The slope inside is steep; when encountering an oncoming car, the uphill vehicle must reverse to the outside. Low sections are like a mouse hole; over-height vehicles will get stuck. This road indeed requires strict vehicle control; otherwise, it would become a 7-kilometer-long parking lot, and even mobilizing all county traffic police wouldn't help.
The scenery of Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road is also exceptionally wonderful. From outside, it's like a grand landscape scroll; from inside, it's a beautiful gallery of 148 picture frames.
The completion of Kunshan Cliff-Hanging Road connected the four cliff-hanging roads (Huilong, Xiyagou, Kunshan, Guoliang) and three major scenic areas (Tianjie Mountain, Wangmangling, Wanxian Mountain) along the Shanxi-Henan border, forming a thrilling tourism route.
Kunshan's condition is clearly not as developed as Jingdi and Guoliang, which have thrived on tourism. The main reasons are lack of resources and extreme remoteness. Although the village has built some guesthouses for tourists, most houses remain old and low.
This small private museum is quite interesting, displaying tools and utensils used by villagers over the past hundred years, including many tools used in carving the cliff-hanging road—a window for outsiders to understand Kunshan's past.
'East has the barrier of Madongling, west the obstacle of Huashan, north the perilous peak of Wangmangling, south the confrontation of Qingfengwei. The land trapped between four mountains is called Xiyagou. Due to dangerous terrain and no roads, occasionally brave men risk their lives to pass through the cliffs'—this is how Xiyagou is described in the 'Lingchuan County Annals.'
This is a wild cliff-hanging road. In stark contrast to Guoliang Cave's red rock and sunny day with crowds and laughter, it has the flavor we expect of a cliff-hanging road. The silent mountains, rugged tunnel, 36 grim side windows casting dim light, jagged rocks retaining chisel marks from the excavation, looking up at thousand-foot cliffs, looking down at hundred-meter abysses—both thrilling and shocking.
The biggest feature of Xiyagou Cliff-Hanging Road is its winding, spiral ascent. From the side windows, you can see it has three layers on one cliff face, forming a zigzag pattern all the way to the top of Wangmangling.
Leaving the mountains was the dream of Xiyagou people for generations. Their road-building efforts began as early as 1962. It is said that that year, the Lingchuan county party secretary rode a horse to the cliff edge, threw a kraft paper bag to the valley bottom. When the village party secretary opened it, there was 3,000 yuan and the large characters 'Build a Road.' From then on, Xiyagou people declared war on the mountains.
Over ten years, they successively built 'goat paths,' 'donkey paths,' and 'wolf paths.' Later they tried to drill a 'car tunnel' through Wangmangling, but failed due to insufficient resources. Twenty years later, Xiyagou people fought the mountains again. With the entire village united, at the cost of 2 dead, 5 seriously injured, 1 permanently disabled, and all village assets, they finally carved a 7.5-kilometer cliff-hanging road on the cliff. When cars drove into the valley, all villagers, old and young, cried loudly. Xiyagou people's 30-year road-building feat moved the Party Central Committee. The People's Daily praised them as 'Contemporary Foolish Old Men.'
Xiyagou Cliff-Hanging Road is the pioneer of Taihang cliff-hanging roads, the only village-level road included in 'China Road Spectrum.' Along with the Tiananmen, Bird's Nest and other famous buildings, it was listed among the 60 Landmarks of New China. A village road achieving such status may be due to the tragic color and tenacious wall-breaking spirit contained in this road. The photo of then village party secretary Zhao Quanniu hanging in midair is shocking. In those days, village cadres were like that: whoever became the leader was a member of the death squad.
The once isolated Xiyagou has long become a well-known leisure resort. This planning map at the brigade headquarters indicates that Xiyagou will have an even more brilliant future.
Wangmangling and Tianjie Mountain, in Shanxi and Henan respectively, share a scenic area gate. Our accommodation, Yongle Farmhouse, lies on the edge of Huilong Grand Canyon. The owner said his place is a good spot for watching clouds.
day8: 2019.6.22 (Note: original says day8: 2019.6.22, same date as day7? Possibly typo, keep original)
Today's journey starts from Qingfeng Pass, walks 8 km around the mountainside of Laoyeding, enjoy 360-degree Taihang scenery, drive through the seventh cliff-hanging road—the most splendid Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road, then leave the car at Baligou and hike to Baodu Village, the only Taihang village in Shanxi without road access.
Laoyeding on Tianjie Mountain, 1,570 meters above sea level, is said to be the 'Number One Iron Summit under Heaven.' It's an isolated peak. Around the mountainside is an 8 km circular hiking path, a panoramic gallery for viewing the glorious Taihang: southward overlooks the meandering Yellow River, northward sees thousands of competing peaks, eastward observes layered mountains, westward gazes at drifting clouds, upward looks at the clear sky and sun, downward views steep peaks and long rivers.
Such an attractive description prompted us to hike here again. But the weather was uncooperative. Overnight drizzle didn't bring a sea of clouds, but filled the valley with thick fog, greatly reducing our viewing.
Guizhen Terrace is said to be where Laozi was humiliated, fell off the cliff, and died. Later called 'Sheshen Cliff' (Self-sacrifice Cliff). It is also where Laozi became immortal, hence 'Guizhen Terrace' (Return to Truth Terrace).
The steel-framed 'Dare Platform' extends over 10 meters into the canyon. Standing on it, you feel suspended in mid-air—whether it's floating like an immortal or trembling with fear, only you know.
Cliffside plank road: wooden handrails on the hundred-meter cliff, crookedly attached to the wall, giving a crude, extremely unsafe feeling.
The glass plank road, though transparent, felt much safer than the wooden one.
South Korean elderly tourists seemed very courteous. They deeply love the wild beauty of Taihang mountains, rivers, and cliff-hanging roads. Along the route, on the four cliff-hanging roads managed by three scenic areas, we often saw them.
Houbei Village is named because it is located behind Laoyeding. It is one of more than a dozen natural villages in Huilong. Although the mountaintop villagers enjoy stunning views daily, to go down to the village committee, they had to risk the 'Laoye Ladder,' which had killed 18 villagers. The famous Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road was built for mountain people like those in Houbei Village.
Zhang Rongsuo, who had amassed great wealth, became village party secretary and decided to use his own money to build a road for the mountain villagers. Leading 400 strong men from the village, they lived in caves among the mountains for three years, finally carving a 1-kilometer S-shaped tunnel and 8 kilometers of winding road on the cliff. The Huilong spirit became famous nationwide, and Secretary Zhang Rongsuo gained national acclaim.
The 2002 Touching China Awards said of Zhang Rongsuo:
You already possess wealth, but your heart is with the fellow villagers still in poverty. You have already left the mountains, but you want all villagers to also leave the isolated cliffs. You fulfilled a dream that generations could not achieve. With the persistence and courage of the Foolish Old Man, you split the mountains and chiseled a road on the cliffs for your fellow villagers, leading to the outside world, and opened a door of hope in people's hearts. You ended a history of poverty and created a new life.
Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road is not only a passage to Laoyeding but also a stirring red landscape. At both ends of the tunnel exit stand statues of heroes. Inside the cave hang huge photos of them splitting mountains. Teams with flags come to receive education.
The Huilong Cliff-Hanging Road tunnel is less than a kilometer long, paved with cement, sealed with stone bars, extremely 'luxurious.' Its feature is an S-shaped spiral inside the cave, connecting to an 8-kilometer shiny black downhill road outside.
We slowly drove through the tunnel from Qingfeng Pass at the top, then sped downhill on the winding mountain road. Below was the North China Plain.
Thus, we completed the crossing of seven cliff-hanging roads, from the continuous high ridges of Shanxi to the flat plains of Henan. Looking back at the mountains, we couldn't help but marvel at their grandeur and the greatness of the Taihang Foolish Old Men. Still unsatisfied, we decided to be hikers again, to re-climb the Taihang, to visit the only village in Shanxi without road access—Baodu Village in Lingchuan, Shanxi.
Baodu Village is just a small village of 9 households, yet it dominates a single hilltop and a whole canyon. This canyon is called Mawuzhai Grand Canyon. At the top is Mawuzhai in Shanxi; at the bottom is Baligou in Henan. Baodu Village hangs on a platform halfway up the mountain.
Baodu Village is not just without road access in the conventional sense; there is simply no road at all. To enter Baodu Village, you must leave your car at Mawuzhai or Baligou and go on foot, climbing over 8 kilometers in mountain streams and canyons. Among the many routes, the relatively safe and easy path is to buy a ticket into Baligou Scenic Area, take two sections of scenic shuttle, then a 168-meter vertical elevator to halfway up the mountain, then leave the scenic area control zone and hike 8 kilometers on the cliffside path. Although this route is dismissed by experienced hikers, we knew we were unfamiliar with the terrain and lacked stamina, so safety was paramount.
The cliffside path winding around the mountains is covered with shrubs. In the silent mountains, we could only hear our own breathing and footsteps. We searched along the path following trail markers left by hikers. Suddenly, we saw a dog-sized creature crouching in the distance. Fearing it might be a wolf, we forgot to zoom in with the camera. After staring for a while, the creature dashed into the woods. When we asked Lao Ji about it that evening, he said it was either a monkey or a wild boar. Monkeys and wild boars often appear in these mountains. The monkeys are a disgruntled group that lost a leadership contest and separated from the troop. Occasionally they join wild boars to raid crops outside the village and scare tourists.
The mountains where Baodu Village is located are actually connected to the scenic areas of Wangmangling, Tianjie Mountain, and Baligou. Rows of peaks, cliffs reaching the sky, dangerous rocks in the valley, lush trees on the cliff edges—since few people come here, it exudes a rough, primitive atmosphere.
'Immortal Greeting Guests,' the iconic landscape of Baligou Scenic Area, appeared very lifelike from here. Nature's craftsmanship is truly marvelous, sculpting a peak wall into a dignified ambassador in full dress, holding a green branch, with graceful demeanor.
At last we saw a few tourists—professional travelers with a deep love for the mountains. They stood calmly by the cliff.
Laolongkou at the village entrance is the most important scenic spot along the way. When clouds, water, and light cooperate, you can take spectacular photos. Below is a hundred-meter cliff. During the rainy season, flowing water gathers here, roars out of the red cliff, and pours into Henan. This is a place to view waterfalls. From the opposite cliff, you can see the magnificent sight of a waterfall hanging like a stream from the sky.
The boundary marker of Baodu Village: Shanxi's gate opens to Henan. The name 'Baodu' is very unique, meaning if you want to raise a pig or sheep here, you have to carry a little calf up the mountain to breed.
The era of carrying supplies up and down on backs is over. The village installed a winch on the cliff, using an 800-meter steel cable to lift goods purchased by Henan people below. This was a wise innovation, and we sighed at the difficulty of mountain life.
After arduous trekking, we finally reached the village at sunset. Combined with the walking at Laoyeding, we had hiked nearly 20 kilometers today, reaching our physical limit. The sunset glow felt like the dawn of victory.
This was Old Ji's home. Old Ji is a capable man. More than a decade ago, he moved his whole family to the Henan plain to buy land and house. In recent years, Baodu Village suddenly became popular, the poor village turning into a sky station for hardcore outdoor hikers. Old Ji assessed the situation and resolutely returned to the mountains, tidied up his few stone houses, and became an innkeeper.
Old Ji reserved for us the village's only 'standard room.' The walls and ceiling were pasted with white paper, and the wooden window frame let in faint light through paper. It might have been perfect with a 'Presidential Suite' sign added.
day9: 2019.6.23
Today's journey: experience the passion of outdoor teams in Baodu Village, follow a group of children to find the exit path of Baodu people among wild rocks, end the Southern Taihang crossing amidst the spectacular scenery of Baligou, and return to Handan with gains.
At dawn, the mountains were lush green. Baodu Village hidden among green trees was truly a paradise deep in the Taihang.
Roosters crowed, fat pigs rubbed against pens, and the leading goat led its group on a high hill.
Other families in the village also run inns, basically with large rooms and communal beds. Some travelers didn't stay in inns but pitched tents in open spaces or on rooftops, and some even cooked their own food—they had strong survival skills.
The roads, food, and accommodation here won't appeal to camera-loving elderly tourists. This place belongs only to those seeking hardship. It is said that the county mayor once wanted to build a road to Baodu Village, but the villagers refused. They worried that if the road were built, the scarf-waving aunties might not come anyway, but the hikers would definitely stop coming. It's good to keep Baodu as a sky station. Old Ji and others don't earn any less.
Baodu Village's popularity can be seen from the colorful banners everywhere. It's like a base camp for warriors. Outdoor armies of all kinds flutter banners, ready to go. Names like 'Wild Wolf,' 'Big Dipper,' 'Tribe' are imposing. Standing among them, one can't help but feel a surge of heroism.
After breakfast, the crossing army split into two groups and set off again: some upwards to Mawuzhai, others downwards to Baligou.
Since we took the elevator uphill, we felt we hadn't truly climbed. So we decisively followed a '3861' team, picking our way down through the canyon rubble.
This team consisted of three mothers and five children. The mothers said this was targeted training for the kids—taking unusual roads, seeing different scenery, encountering diverse things, cultivating their courage and ability to face challenges and overcome difficulties.
The children seemed a bit timid, but they knew to be cautious in danger and what measures to take in different environments. They were doing something meaningful.
Another group of young people came up the canyon, about 20-30 people, full of vitality and passion, challenging the mountains under a climbing coach.
Finally we reached the bottom. Baligou is a national 5A scenic area that gathers the essence of Taihang mountains and water, with the grandeur of Mount Tai, the peril of Huashan, the serenity of Jiuzhaigou and Qingcheng, and the beauty of Huangshan and Emei. Today, Baligou had scudding clouds, blue streams, and cascading water. But we had no energy left to immerse ourselves in this beauty. We headed straight for the exit, dragging our tired bodies, carrying full harvests, returning to Handan.
The majestic Taihang, sky roads into the clouds, viewers' souls shaken, travelers' hearts alarmed. This is a self-driving route stringed with 7 cliff-hanging roads, a magnificent landscape co-created by nature and the Taihang people. A year later, I have compiled this record of our unforgettable crossing journey.
