Hebei Tourism: Exploring Xiangtangshan Grottoes (Photos)

There are numerous scenic spots and historical sites around Handan, Hebei. During the May Day Golden Week in 2007, a reporter joined a self-driving "Yanzhao Journey" convoy organized by Beijing Aiche to explore Xiangtangshan Grottoes, visit the Nüwa Palace of the Nüwa myth, pay homage to the former site of the 129th Division of the Eighth Route Army, enjoy a trip to Jingniang Lake, and seek the Lüxian Cave of the Yellow Millet Dream. The three-day Yanzhao Journey with Aiche was truly rewarding.

The convoy departs from Handan Station (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

I recall that on the morning of May 1, 2007, I joined the Handan Yanzhao Journey self-driving convoy. Over a dozen cars assembled at the Doushi Service Area on the Beijing-Shijiazhuang Expressway before setting off. Among the car enthusiasts in this convoy, ranging from seniors over sixty to infants under one year old, the age gap was substantial. However, since most traveled with their families, a harmonious, warm, and joyful bond of friendship and kinship filled the entire journey.

Statue of Hufu Qishe (wearing nomadic dress and shooting on horseback) (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After nearly five hours of driving, the convoy arrived in Handan smoothly around 1:00 PM. Entering the city, a statue of Hufu Qishe standing on the street left a deep impression. Handan is an ancient city with nearly 3,000 years of history. It was the capital of the State of Zhao during the Warring States period. After Qin unified China, Handan became the seat of Handan Commandery, one of the thirty-six commanderies. During the Han Dynasty, it was one of the five great metropolises, alongside Luoyang, Linzi, Chengdu, and Wancheng.

Xiangtangshan Mountain Gate (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

After lunch in Handan, the convoy set off for the first scenic spot of this Yanzhao Journey: exploring the Xiangtangshan Grottoes in southern Hebei.

Group photo in front of a stele (Photo: Cao Qun)

Xiangtangshan is located in the northern part of Fengfeng Mining District, also known as Gushan. The grottoes are named Xiangtangshan (Echoing Hall Mountain) because people's laughter, whispers, sleeve rustling, and footsteps produce resounding echoes in the caves halfway up the mountain. It is renowned for the largest grottoes of the Northern Qi dynasty and its beautiful landscapes.

Song Dynasty pagoda at Xiangtangshan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The convoy arrived at Xiangtangshan around 4:30 PM. Since it coincided with the May Day Golden Week temple fair, the place was exceptionally lively. After passing through the mountain gate into the scenic area, the first thing that caught the travelers' eyes was a Song Dynasty pagoda on one side. Adjacent to the pagoda was the site of the Changle Temple at Xiangtangshan.

Changle Temple site (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Changle Temple is located at the foot of the mountain below the Northern Xiangtang Grottoes. It was first built during the Northern Qi dynasty, facing south, covering an area of over 7,000 square meters. Except for the Putong Pagoda, all other buildings have been destroyed, but the foundations are well preserved. The mountain gate has a stone platform base with a floor area of 85 square meters. In front of the Hall of the Buddhas of Three Ages, there is a stone platform with an area of 130 square meters. Inside the hall, a central stone altar holds eight statues: the Buddhas of Three Ages, two Bodhisattva standing figures, and the "Three Great Beings" riding a lion, an elephant, and a lion-like beast (hong). According to a Jin Dynasty stele behind the hall, the statues were carved during the Jintian era (1149-1153 AD).

Path at Xiangtangshan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the platform in front of the hall stands a Song Dynasty octagonal stone pagoda, now 3.5 meters high. The Mahavira Hall is built on a 1.2-meter-high stone platform, five bays wide and four bays deep, with reduced and shifted columns. The stone columns are well preserved, and the floor area is 260 square meters. The Putong Pagoda is on the east side of the mountain gate, an octagonal nine-story brick pagoda about 30 meters high. On the fifth level is a stone tablet from the sixth year of the Song Huangyou era (1054 AD) recording the construction of the fifth level of the Changle Temple brick pagoda. The temple houses nearly 30 steles from the Northern Song to the Republic of China periods.

Group photo at Xiangtangshan (Photo: Cao Qun)

Among them, the stele from the fourth year of the Jin Zhenglong era (1159 AD) titled "Record of Rebuilding the Hall of the Buddhas of Three Ages at Changle Temple" records the initial construction, history, and rise and fall of Changle Temple and the Northern Xiangtang Grottoes, providing important historical materials for studying the Xiangtangshan Grottoes. In 1960 and 1979, the Hebei provincial and Handan municipal cultural relic departments twice excavated the Changle Temple site, unearthing nearly 200 pieces of Northern Qi brick statues and Tang Dynasty red sandstone statues, as well as numerous tiles, dripstones, and building materials from the Northern Dynasties to the Ming and Qing dynasties, providing researchers with abundant physical materials.

Stone window of Xiangtangshan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The travelers passed through the Changle Temple site and climbed the stone path up the mountain. From the foot of the mountain, looking up at the grottoes halfway up the lush Xiangtangshan, the scene was magnificent. According to relevant sources, there are 16 extant grottoes, over 450 niches with cliff-side statues, more than 5,000 statues of various sizes, and numerous inscriptions of scriptures and notes. It is the largest grotto discovered in Hebei Province and was among the first batch of national key cultural relic protection units announced by the State Council in 1961.

Lush mountain scenery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The main area the travelers visited was the Northern Xiangtangshan Scenic Area. The Northern Xiangtang Grottoes are located on the west slope of Tiangong Peak of Gushan in the town of Hedi, Fengfeng Mining District. There are nine grottoes, arranged from left to right: Daye Cave, Scripture Engraving Cave, Two Buddhas Cave, Shakyamuni Cave, Jiajing Cave, Nameless Cave, Great Buddha Cave, and two more Nameless Caves. The caves were first carved during the Eastern Wei and Northern Qi dynasties, serving as a famous royal temple of the Northern Qi period. The caves are cut into the mountainside, facing west, and arranged in a line from south to north. There are four Northern Qi caves, one Sui cave, one Tang cave, and two Ming caves.

Vivid statues in the grotto (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Among them, the Great Buddha Cave is the largest and most ornate. The cave is 13.3 meters deep, 13 meters wide, and 11.4 meters high. Located at the northern end of the grotto cluster, it is commonly called the "Northern Hall." The cave is over 12 meters both wide and deep, and 11.6 meters high, making it the largest cave of the late Northern Dynasties in China. Above the entrance are three open windows.

Buddha statue in the grotto (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Inside the cave, a central pillar stands. On the front, left, and right sides, large curtained niches are carved, each containing a Buddha flanked by two Bodhisattvas. The seated Buddha is 3.5 meters high, the largest statue in Xiangtangshan. Below, the altar is carved with incense burners, crouching lions, and ten deity kings. At the top of the pillar, 16 niches are arranged, each containing a standing Bodhisattva. On the south side of the pillar's top, a burial pit 2.8 meters deep is said to be the tomb of Gao Huan.

Meditating statue in the grotto (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On the four walls of the cave, 16 pagoda-shaped niches are carved, each containing a seated round sculpture. On both sides of the entrance, reliefs of the emperor and empress worshipping Buddha are carved. On the east side of the south wall, above the pagoda-shaped niche, over a hundred seated Thousand-Buddha statues from the Ming Dynasty were later added. The carvings in this cave are extremely exquisite. The pagoda-shaped niches on the walls are bordered by lotus-columns. The columns are covered with interlocking cloud patterns, topped with flaming pearls, and the bases are carved with kneeling monsters. The dome above the finial is decorated with an inverted lotus, a wheel of dharma, acanthus leaves, and a flaming pearl forming a three-branch stupa spire, extremely magnificent.

Laughing Buddha statue in the grotto (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The left bodhisattva in the southern large niche of the central pillar stands with one slightly raised foot, a naturally curved body, and clinging robes that give a strong sense of texture. The niches at the top of the pillar are bordered by octagonal lotus-topped columns with flaming pearl tops. Between the two niches, fan-shaped arrangements of transformed pearl patterns, resembling a peacock spreading its tail, show unique conception and exquisite form. The Tang Dynasty eminent monk Shi Daoxuan wrote in the "Continuation of the Biography of Eminent Monks" that the carvings here were "so astonishing that they shock ghosts and gods." The exquisite carving rivals that of the Binyang Cave at Longmen Grottoes in Henan, the fifth cave at Gongxian, and the major caves at Yungang Grottoes, making it a master of carving art.

Cliff-side inscriptions at Xiangtangshan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Although the Xiangtangshan Grottoes are not as massive as the four great grottoes of China, their carvings of grottoes, Buddhas, and floral patterns are beautiful and generous. The carving art inherits the past and innovates, marking an important transitional phase from Yungang Grottoes in Datong to Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang in the history of Chinese grotto art. It is also an important treasure trove for studying Chinese Buddhism, architecture, sculpture, painting, and calligraphy. Unfortunately, many Buddha heads in the grottoes are severely damaged, reportedly cut off and taken away by Japanese invaders during the war.

View from Xiangtangshan (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Climbing Xiangtangshan and admiring the ancient relics one by one is a spiritual enjoyment of Chinese ancient culture. Gazing at the beautiful natural scenery from the top is a feast for the eyes. In the distance, the rolling Taihang Mountains stretch. Below, green fields extend endlessly. Particularly, the Changle Temple site accompanied by the Song dynasty pagoda highlights the essence of ancient Chinese architectural culture.

Steep mountain path (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

However, the tourism environment here still needs improvement. On the short path leading to the summit, countless fortune-tellers and diviners line both sides, trying to attract business by hinting at good or bad luck. Additionally, the deafening firecracker noise and the garbage and filth from burning incense left a somewhat regrettable impression on visitors.

Overlooking the Changle Temple site (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Nevertheless, the Xiangtangshan Grottoes are the largest treasure trove of Buddhist grotto art from the Northern Qi dynasty. The ancient craftsmen, mastering traditional painting, sculpture, and architecture, absorbed and integrated techniques from Indian Gandhara Buddhist sculpture. After early development, they gradually matured, creating a grotto sculpture art with Chinese national style and era characteristics. Today, with its unique grotto culture, cliff carvings, calligraphy art, and modern garden art, this place attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year for archaeological research and sightseeing. (Text and photos: Feng Ganyong)