Savor Qilu Culture at Mount Tai’s Supreme, Sing the Heroic Songs of Yan and Zhao in Praise of Grand Landscapes (Part 2: Handan Guangfu Ancient City) — National Day Eight

Savor Qilu Culture at Mount Tai’s Supreme, Sing the Heroic Songs of Yan and Zhao in Praise of Grand Landscapes (Part 2: Handan Guangfu Ancient City)

— An Eight-Day Self-Driving Tour of Shandong, Hebei, and Jiangsu Provinces During National Day

D03 (03/10): From Feicheng to Handan Guangfu Ancient City, it took 3 hours, covering 244 kilometers. We visited Hongji Bridge, Ganlu Temple, the inner city of Guangfu Ancient City, the Wu Family Compound, and Yang Luchan’s Former Residence. Then we drove about 377 kilometers, taking 5 hours, arriving late at night at Jinlong Villa in Baishishan World Geopark.

As the capital of Zhao State, one of the Seven Warring States, Handan has been familiar to us since childhood through numerous historical anecdotes. Stories like ‘Lord Xinling Steals the Tally to Rescue Zhao,’ ‘Sun Bin and Pang Juan,’ and ‘Master Lü’s Spring and Autumn Annals’ repeatedly bring this ancient city, rich in history and culture, to the world’s attention.

My first knowledge of Handan came from the idiom ‘Learn to Walk in Handan’ in our textbooks. Surprisingly, the city name ‘Handan’ has been in use for over three thousand years without a single character change, a rare exception in Chinese toponymy.

Perhaps the locals cherish the name Handan deeply, or perhaps it holds special meaning for them. In any case, the spirit of standing firm and being straightforward itself reflects the chivalrous spirit of the land of Yan and Zhao.

As a famous historical and cultural city in China, Handan is known as the ancient capital of Yan and Zhao, the city of idioms and allusions, and the city of Tai Chi. From the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, it served eight generations of princes and enjoyed 158 years of prosperity. King Wuling of Zhao, the pioneer of the military reform ‘Wearing Hu-style Clothing and Shooting on Horseback,’ worked diligently to strengthen the state and enrich the army, making Zhao one of the seven powerful states and a rival to strong Qin.

From the Warring States to the Eastern Han, Handan flourished for 500 years. It was known as ‘the richest city within the seas, a famous metropolis of the world’ and has long been a city known for its beautiful women. Zhao culture originated in the Spring and Autumn period, flourished in the Warring States, continued through the Han dynasties, and flows to this day with profound depth, together with Yan culture forming the general picture of ancient northern Chinese culture—Yan-Zhao culture.

On the morning of October 3, we slept until we naturally woke up at 7:30 AM. We had a hearty Shandong-style breakfast at a local shop in Feicheng County, including soy milk, purple rice porridge, eggs, stuffed pancakes, sugar rolls, buns, fried dough sticks, and rolled pancakes. At 8:30 AM, we set off by car towards Guangfu Ancient City in Handan City, Hebei Province.

The sun was abundant, the weather clear, and the highway smooth. As we drove, we chatted about various curious stories from all over. Along the way, we bought 12 Feicheng fairy peaches, the white kind. The Little Dragon Prince said, ‘The peach seller said these are the fairy peaches that Sun Wukong ate when he caused havoc in Heaven.’

On the halfway, we encountered a car on a two-lane road. Despite the narrow distance of only about two car lengths, the other car forced a lane change into our lane where we were driving at the 110 km/h speed limit. I said, ‘Don’t mess around, go to hell!’ and blocked him out, leaving him flustered on the highway, which made the Little Dragon Prince laugh heartily.

Guangfu City is located in Yongnianwa, on the banks of the Fuyang River, 45 li northeast of Handan City in southeastern Hebei Province. Historically, it was the seat of Guangping Prefecture, hence called Guangfu or Yongnian Guangfu. It has a history of over 2,600 years. At the end of the Sui Dynasty, King Dou Jiande of Xia and King Liu Heita of Han once established their capitals here. Later, it served as the seat of commanderies, prefectures, and counties in successive dynasties.

Following the route of visiting the outer city first, then the inner city, our first stop was Hongji Bridge, built in the Sui Dynasty and known as the sister bridge of Zhaozhou Bridge. We touched the good luck of the ancient bridge, hoping for bright fortune and smooth paths.

Hongji Bridge is a Sui Dynasty stone arch bridge connecting Hebei and Shandong provinces. It runs east-west, spanning the Fuyang River flowing north-south. The name ‘Hongji Bridge’ comes from the meaning ‘its merit is vast, its benefit is great.’

It is said that during the Sui Dynasty, a brother and sister first proposed building the bridge, and people from all around responded enthusiastically, donating money and labor to complete it, hence the name ‘Hongji.’ After checking tickets, we first went to see the bronze statues of that Sui Dynasty brother and sister who initiated the bridge proposal. The Little Dragon Prince improvised a ‘Dragon Flying and Phoenix Dancing’ Tai Chi dance to add to the fun.

Hongji Bridge is an open-shoulder stone arch bridge, light in structure yet strong and durable. The outer arches of Hongji Bridge are carved with exquisite reliefs. Between the large and small arches are carved dragon heads, reliefs of dragons looking at the water. On both sides of the large arches are carved two dragons playing with a pearl, flying phoenixes, flying dragons, and flying horses. The small arches at the ends are carved with entwined flower branches.

The most amazing feature is that on both sides of the top of the south main arch there are carved water-absorbing beasts. Under the beasts, on the bridge deck stones, there are corresponding small holes about 4–5 cm in diameter, curving upward to the top of the water-absorbing beast’s head. Whenever there is a major flood, when the floodwater approaches the lower edge of the small hole, the hole emits a low sound like an old cow mooing, which locals call ‘ground buffalo.’ The principle uses aerodynamics and acoustics.

An ancient stone bridge like a rainbow lies on the water, its reflection rippling. The Little Dragon Prince went straight to the bridgehead, stood by the railing, looked at me, and said, ‘Take a photo of me.’ Ha, so young and already has his own ideas, knowing how to choose his scenery. I hope when you grow up, you will also be as independent as today, freely choosing the scenery you love, and life as well.

We strolled on the bridge, stopping to admire. The bluestone pavement of the bridge, with marks of wear from countless carts and horses, has become potholed and uneven after centuries of wind and rain. The green stone pillars on the bridge are carved with patterns of dragons, tigers, insects, birds, flowers, and branches, looking weathered and magnificent, evoking thoughts.

Crossing the stone bridge to the right, there are several bronze statues of boat trackers on the riverbank, bent over, heads down, stepping forward, laboriously pulling official boats for water transport.

Our second stop was Ganlu Temple, located outside the east gate of Guangfu City. Ganlu Temple is an ancient temple over 1,500 years old, built during the Northern Wei Dynasty. It is the place where the first female form of Guanyin in China, Yangzhi Guanyin, became a nun, making it the first dojo of female Guanyin.

The original form of Yangzhi Guanyin was Princess Nanyang, the eldest daughter of Emperor Yang of Sui, third among his children, also called the Third Princess. Princess Nanyang studied medicine, divination, and Buddhism from childhood with her mother, grandmother, and scholars, known for her filial piety and virtue. In the last year of the Sui Dynasty (AD 618), the imperial guard general Yuwen Huaji assassinated Emperor Yang of Sui in Jiangdu, along with almost all his relatives. Princess Nanyang was spared because her husband was Yuwen Shuji (Yuwen Huaji’s brother). Later, when Yuwen Huaji was destroyed by King Dou Jiande of Xia, Princess Nanyang was freed from being a hostage.

Princess Nanyang’s only son, Master Yuwen Chan, who had studied Buddhism deeply with his mother for over ten years, voluntarily accepted punishment for his uncle’s crimes and died. Having experienced a series of major family events, the princess realized the impermanence of life. Feeling that her worldly ties were exhausted and moved by the harm her father’s heavy burdens caused the people, she sought permission from Dou Jiande and became a nun at Baicao Temple in Guangfu (now Ganlu Temple), taking the religious name Miaoshan from her grandmother’s title. She then practiced medicine to help the world, spread Buddhism, and ultimately achieved enlightenment. Thus, Ganlu Temple became the earliest dojo of Yangzhi Guanyin.

Later, when Miaoshan went to the Zhongnan Mountains in the west, she received the true medical teachings of Sun Simiao, the King of Medicine. Subsequently, she traveled throughout the country to heal the sick and save lives. After Emperor Taizong of Tang ascended the throne, Prime Minister Yan Liben, moved by the good deeds of Princess Miaoshan, painted the first widely circulated image of Yangzhi Guanyin based on her, now treasured at Putuo Mountain and Wuhan Guiyuan Temple. Monk Daoji, based on the good deeds of Princess Miaoshan, told the story of Princess Miaoshan’s personal experience using the story of King Miaozhuangyan, which became the most popular and widely spread myth across the country. Before his journey to the West, Monk Xuanzang visited Guanyin at Ganlu Temple.

The mountain gate of Ganlu Temple is uniquely shaped. The first hall is the Heavenly King Hall, enshrining the smiling Maitreya Buddha. On the left is a two-story drum tower, with Guanyin enshrined on the first floor. On the right is a bell tower, with Ksitigarbha enshrined on the first floor. Further inside, there is a stone tablet inscribed with ‘Ancestral Court of Guanyin,’ and nearby a Guanyin Holy Relics Hall, unfortunately closed that day.

Ganlu Temple is grand in scale, with several layers of halls arranged on a horizontal plane. The most special feature is that the entire temple is surrounded by a circular river, creating two layers of enclosure: the outer layer is a brick wall, and the inner layer is a moat of water.

Thus, the release pond is a circular moat, a true blessing for released creatures to return to nature.

The temple is lined with willows along both banks of the moat. As a gentle breeze blows, the willows sway gracefully, charmingly green. The Little Dragon Prince acted as our guide, leading us around to visit this ancestral court of Guanyin.

Leaving Ganlu Temple, we drove about 2 kilometers along the direction of the east gate, and soon a grand ancient city wall with colorful flags on a tower came into view.

We parked the car and walked towards the east gate of Guangfu Ancient City. Guangfu Ancient City, located 15 kilometers northeast of Handan City, Hebei Province, has a history of over 2,600 years. It is a national key cultural relic protection unit and a national 5A scenic area. During the Warring States period, it was the fief of Mao Sui (the protagonist of the idiom ‘Mao Sui Recommends Himself’) of the State of Zhao. At the end of the Sui Dynasty, peasant rebel leader Dou Jiande established his capital here, founding the ‘Xia Kingdom.’ During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it became the seat of Guangping Prefecture in Zhili Province.

One wonder: The ancient city wall of Guangfu is well-preserved and magnificent in scale. The existing wall was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty, 12 meters high, 8 meters wide, covering an area of 1.5 square kilometers within the city. As a military defense facility of a traditional Chinese ancient city, its barbican, corner towers, horse ramps, gate tunnels, heavy portcullis, and gate towers are either preserved or have ruins. It perfectly embodies the construction techniques and layout of ancient Chinese city walls, holding significant value for architectural history and aesthetics, and occupying an important historical position among surviving ancient Chinese city walls.

Second wonder: The city moat is 140 meters wide, very rare. Surrounding the ancient city is a smoothly connected moat. Outside the moat lies Yongnianwa, an area of 46,000 mu (about 3,067 hectares). The terrain is higher in the north and lower in the south, allowing water to flow naturally. The depression has water year-round and has been a famous natural aquaculture farm since ancient times.

Third wonder: This is the birthplace of Yang-style and Wu-style Tai Chi, the hometown of Chinese Tai Chi. The former residences of Yang Luchan (founder of Yang-style Tai Chi) and Wu Yuxiang (founder of Wu-style Tai Chi) are well-preserved. Every year, Tai Chi enthusiasts from around the world gather here to compete, exchange ideas, and discuss techniques. Yang-style and Wu-style Tai Chi have been listed as national intangible cultural heritage.

Guangfu Ancient City is a famous historical and cultural city integrating ancient city, water city, Tai Chi city, and the Buddhist ancestral court of Yangzhi Guanyin. There are many scenic spots within and outside the city—over 30 historical sites. The streets and alleys inside the city are well-developed. Notable sites include the former residences of Tai Chi masters Yang Luchan and Wu Yuxiang, Qinghui Academy, City God Temple, Wenchang Pavilion, Guangping Prefecture Office, Mao Sui’s Tomb, Black Dragon Pool, Hongji Bridge, and Ganlu Temple.

We walked across a curved stone bridge with carved patterns, passed a section of the ancient city wall inscribed with ‘Guangfu City’ in the middle, and entered Yanghe Gate, the gate of the barbican outside the east gate of Guangfu Ancient City (the main gate faces south). The barbican is semicircular, with pointed ends and a rounded middle, like a dumpling. The city wall, though old, is well-preserved. Passing through the gate tunnel felt like traveling back centuries.

We climbed to the top of the east gate wall and walked around the barbican. The Little Dragon Prince spotted a Taoist Yin-Yang platform and spontaneously performed a Tai Chi routine on the tower. After the dance, we continued towards the south gate.

The deep autumn sun was strong, shining on the tower, making it feel a bit hot. We walked about a quarter of the city wall and descended from the south gate. Along the inner street, we went to see the ‘Along the River During the Qingming Festival’ scene in the streets of Guangfu Ancient City.

For some reason, several scenic spots were closed. Finally, we visited the Wu Family Compound. This compound, the large family mansion of the three Wu brothers, could be considered a luxurious residence in Guangfu Ancient City. It occupies vast grounds with deep courtyards, decorated in an antique style full of cultural atmosphere.

Inside the stage, someone was performing Hebei Bangzi opera. We didn’t know the title and couldn’t understand a word. So we simply toured the compound. Several courtyards and side courts looked imposing. On a green brick screen wall, several porcelain vases were embedded, symbolizing ‘peace and safety’ (ping ping an an).

The Little Dragon Prince pulled me to accompany him backstage—his curiosity wanted to see what the backstage of a stage looked like. When I walked in, the Little Dragon Prince had turned around and run away. Isn’t that a trick on his dad?

We walked towards the east gate, returned to the parking lot, and drove to Yang Luchan’s Former Residence south of the south gate. This is the former residence of the great inventor of Yang-style Tai Chi, Master Yang Luchan.

Unable to find a parking spot, I stayed in the car parked curbside while my wife took our child and grandmother to visit. After about ten minutes, my wife came back to relieve me. The residence is not large, simply furnished, introducing the master’s life. In the photos, the master appeared gentle and affable, yet with the fortitude and heroism of Master Yang.

During the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, the ancient city of Guangfu in Yongnian County gave birth to two generation Tai Chi masters, Yang Luchan and Wu Yuxiang, making it the birthplace of two major schools of Chinese Tai Chi—Yang-style and Wu-style Tai Chi. As a treasured art of traditional Chinese culture, Tai Chi spread from here across the country and the world, becoming a popular fitness activity for millions. Today, Tai Chi culture has become a Chinese national treasure. Yongnian has been named ‘Hometown of Chinese Tai Chi’ and has hosted over a dozen Chinese and international Tai Chi exchange conferences, attracting enthusiasts from nearly 30 countries and regions. Tens of thousands of Tai Chi practitioners from Hong Kong, the UK, the USA, Japan, and other countries come to compete, observe, and exchange skills.

‘Mao Sui Recommends Himself’ made Mao Sui’s fame and also made Lord Pingyuan’s reputation as a discoverer of talent. After his death, Mao Sui was buried in Yongnian District. His tomb is large and is one of the ‘Eight Scenes of Pinggan.’ In 2008, the Chinese Mao Clan Research Association identified Mao Sui as the progenitor of the Mao surname, with Mao Heng and Mao Chang as his descendants, confirming that Ji Ze in Handan is Mao Sui’s hometown, and that the Mao family of Shaoshan are direct descendants of Mao Sui of Ji Ze.

After seeing Yang Luchan’s Former Residence, it was 5:00 PM. Our tour of Guangfu Ancient City concluded. We started the car and drove along the outer road around the city wall near the west gate, heading towards Baishishan World Geopark in Laiyuan County, Baoding City. At the Xingtai service area, we enjoyed a five-star buffet at 38 yuan per person—truly great value! We give several big five-star ratings to this highway service area!

After about five hours of driving, covering 377 kilometers, we arrived safely at Baishishan Jinlong Villa at 10:00 PM, where the temperature was minus two degrees Celsius.

Opening the car door, we immediately felt the chilly mountain air filled with a shivering cold. We couldn’t help but shiver several times. Is this the deep autumn of the north?