2014 Backpacking to Mohe: Let's Find the North! Go Go! A Guide to Seeking the Northernmost Point in Mohe

The roaring train slowly departed from Zhengzhou Railway Station, carrying me into the embrace of the northern land (though I had no idea how cold it would be). This was also the longest trip I had planned up to that point, taking a full three months. Because I really didn't know how much budget I would need to cross half of China, nor how cold minus forty degrees Celsius would feel, and what equipment I would need to ensure I could come back "alive." So, from the moment I had this idea, I started working part-time to save money and cut living expenses. To do this, I turned down all gatherings with friends and invitations to go shopping (indeed, without money, you can't even move an inch). I still remember my friends' reactions when I first told them about this idea. Some said, "Are you crazy? Going that far?" Others said, "You're rich, but I'm not" (Looking back now, am I really rich? No. That money was scraped together by saving on food and expenses for my dream. Have you ever experienced the feeling when you reject all your friends' invitations to go out shopping or eating, and then see how they look at you? It really makes you feel bitter). And some said, "It's so cold, are you sick? Do you want to go there and become an ice sculpture?" But it turned out I was going to see ice sculptures, and up to that point, the Central Plains hadn't even seen snow yet. Later, while working part-time, I read travelogues written by others on Qyer, looked for guides, and found travel buddies. Eventually, I finally found the group. Haha, people gradually joined us until our final group of eight people to find the north was formed. After finding companions, the next thing to do was to arrange chartered car and accommodation. This was handled by our talented girl, FFF-嗯da. She contacted Master Xiao Liu from Mohe (you can find him on Qyer — Mohe Xiao Liu, phone: 13845765753). The price was fair, and he was a very nice person, chatting and laughing with us the whole way, keeping a cheerful mood. As the time approached, the next issue to consider was equipment. How thickly did I need to dress to avoid turning into an "ice pop"? It turned out that a set of thin thermal underwear, a set of warm underwear, a pair of cargo pants or ski pants, a cotton vest, a down jacket (preferably with bright colors so that photos look good in the snow), and finally a pair of hiking boots (preferably high-top so you can stomp freely in the snow) were sufficient. If any male friends are still worried about the cold, they could bring a few hand warmers (I brought them but didn't use them because I didn't feel that cold). Since I was afraid of not being able to buy train tickets, I bought all my train tickets 20 days in advance. Especially the ticket to Mohe. At first, I planned to take the 2667 from Harbin, but in the end I chose to board at the train's departure station — Shenyang, while my buddies all boarded in Harbin. As the departure date approached, I gradually received more and more blessings and care from friends. I'd like to thank them all here. Now let's start the main text:\nFirst, attach a map of Mohe tours. Normally, the tour follows a counterclockwise order, but this is for a three-day trip in Mohe. However, you can discuss the itinerary and route with the driver, and Brother Xiao Liu from Mohe will arrange everything according to your requests and schedule, especially a warm-hearted guy like Master Xiao Liu.\nAs the train slowed down, the announcer's voice sounded. I knew that after more than fifty hours, I had arrived at my destination — Mohe.\nAfter getting off the train, Master Xiao Liu was already waiting for us inside the station. We immediately got into the car, but... but after getting in, I have to say, Master Xiao Liu, your music videos are a bit... well, you know (I wonder if Master Xiao Liu will blame me when he sees this). Although we are all adults, there were still many girls, right? Next time you pick up a group, you should be a bit more subtle, haha. Then Master Xiao Liu took us to the place we were staying. As soon as I got out of the car to grab my luggage, I suddenly felt a bit uncomfortable. Later I realized it was too cold. When I inhaled through my nose, I felt my nose hairs freeze. But the good thing was that our accommodation was very warm — it had underfloor heating! It was my first time experiencing underfloor heating. After showering, I foolishly asked the innkeeper where the radiator was, wanting to wash some clothes and dry them.\nD1: Early in the morning, we got up, washed up, and ate breakfast. We had agreed to meet Master Xiao Liu at 9 o'clock, but we couldn't be too late because the first day's itinerary was a bit long, and it started getting dark around 3 PM.\nHey, weren't there eight of us? Where is the other one? Haha, @FFF-嗯da, what do you think happened to that other person? Haha. The consequence of sneaking out is that when your mom checks in, you have to make up stories to fool her.\nLet's take a group photo except for the bad kid who fooled his parents. This photo actually takes up the least memory because among all his photos, his face is the biggest, haha.\nJump up, the world is even better!\nNext, we arrived at the first scenic spot where there was no student discount (except for this one, all other scenic spots offered student tickets): the Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns.\nThe panorama didn't turn out well, but it's passable. Ticket price: 20 yuan.\nGods return to their positions. Hehe.\nCome on, let's hug, buddies.\nThis was the first scenic spot we visited in Mohe. Inexperienced, I came out bare-faced. Instantly after climbing the stairs, I felt, oh no, my nose is about to freeze again. I didn't wear a mask, haha.\nLet's have a photo with warm sunlight.\nNext, we drove to the birch forest where many people take photos.\nThere you are, haha. During this trip, I discovered that I can really jump high, haha. There will be photos later to prove it. A comparison will show (compare these two photos: which jacket do you think looks better in the photos?).\nI wasn't finished talking, and you pressed the shutter before I could strike a pose. But it's okay, haha.\nNext is the Er Mu River Bridge.\nSuddenly I realized I don't have a photo of the bridge, so here's a photo of us playing.\nThis is the youngest guy who didn't show his face earlier, bullying our photographer. Seeing this photo made me indignant and I wanted to shout: Let go, let me do it!\nKicked into the air.\nThen we headed straight to Wusuli Shoal (ticket: 50 yuan). Since we left late in the morning, we arrived past 1 PM.\nArrived at the Northern National Pillar Stone. I jumped the highest again, so I didn't dare to jump with full force later.\nSalute to our great motherland.\nStanding at the border, facing the direction of home.\nProud capital. Note the person behind my head. He was a fellow traveler staying at the same inn with us at night. To save on ticket fees, the three of them walked 50 kilometers round trip to this place. I really admired them.\nI found the north! Here, my phone froze and shut down automatically (awkward).\nActually, we had already finished our photos. Everyone felt cold, and five of us went back. The youngest and I felt that since we were at the border, we had to go to the very edge to make it meaningful. That's why we have the photo of me holding the flag. Then I wanted to take a photo for my Minion, so I went back from the river surface to this landmark. Then we met three people behind the stone who were taking off their clothes and asking us to take a photo for them, which gave us the idea to strip down too.\nYou're at the border but still won't look at me, hmph.\nI took you to the real border, and you were stunned, my buddy. Afraid I would throw you over? Don't worry, I'm too nice to do that, hehe. Border Russian terms: Crossing the border leads to arrest (half a year detention), escaping leads to shooting, resistance means death.\nNext, we had a big meal. We were starving. Forgive me for not taking photos when my phone was frozen and I was afraid the camera would get fogged from moisture. After a hearty meal, we drove to the last scenic spot of the day: Dragon River First Bend (we had to climb more than 900 steps, so don't dress too thickly; just enough not to be cold, or you'll regret it).\nLooking down at the steps. By the way, there was snow. The downhill steps were extremely slippery. Better walk slowly and have someone support you, or you might slide all the way down.\nThe joy of reaching the top showed on my face.\nThen we went to Beihong Village to rest, eat dinner, and sleep. This ended a tiring day.\nD2: Got up early to watch the sunrise. Since I came out too early, I ended up freezing outside for an hour, almost dried out by the cold wind.\nPast 7 AM, it was still not bright.\nEvery household was already emitting smoke from chimneys.\nWalked all the way to the field at the east end of the village.\nKeyu and a large group of travelers came out early with me to photograph the sunrise.\nFrozen stiff. The morning wind was really biting; only at that moment did I feel the piercing cold.\nSuddenly felt a glow of brilliance.\nThis is the northernmost primary school in China.\nYouth turned white overnight, but it's a pity it wasn't you accompanying me.\nNext, we went back to eat, packed up, and set off for Arctic Village.\nTake a photo before leaving Beihong Village.\nLeaving behind, the journey was filled with vast snow scenery.\nOn the road to Arctic Village, there were birch forests and snow-covered pines, very beautiful.\nLet's do a nosebleed-worthy promotion for Master Xiao Liu.\nI love my snow-white skin.\nJumping up. I have to say, Master Xiao Liu's photography skills are really good; almost every shot is good, no bad photos.\nCourtesy demands reciprocity. Let me promote Master Xiao Liu. He had a "conscience" too. After I got in the car, he was driving. I asked him to slow down so I could drink some hot water, and he actually stopped the car for me. Worth promoting.\nTo take a photo of me climbing a tree, Master Xiao Liu tricked us, saying he would drive away if we got out. And he really did! We couldn't catch up, so we just entertained ourselves in the snow.\nThe hole I left after getting up.\nThe snow was so thick that once I lay down, I couldn't get up.\nArrived at Arctic Village (ticket: 60 yuan, no strict ID check; you can just use any student card and let the ticket seller match the face). After dropping off our stuff, we all went out to stroll around. Group photo.\nCome on, a plate of snow for five yuan.\nThis is the northernmost school in Arctic Village. Compare with Beihong Village Primary School.\nIce sculptures on the square.\nBy the way, not far to the right of my photo, there was a house made of snow on the riverbank. It had two slides leading down to the Heilongjiang River. Super fun. I used a wooden board from a door as a sled. At the bottom, the board fell apart from the speed. You can imagine how fast it was, incredibly thrilling. In the evening, we went back to clean up, wash, and eat. But honestly, the accommodation in Arctic Village was a bit cold. Even three of us in one room were freezing.\nD3: The next day, I slept in naturally, then ate and packed. First stop: Arctic Outpost.\nThere were soldiers up there.\nThe little Russian house across the river was emitting smoke. I wonder if some Russian uncle was inside drinking vodka.\nFlying wooden suspension bridge.\nCrown of the Golden Rooster — the northernmost tip of China.\nBoundary marker No. 138.\nHorse-drawn sleigh (I felt the horse was exhausted).\nAfter visiting several attractions in Arctic Village, we started heading back to the county seat. The snow-seeking trip gradually came to an end. After reaching the county seat, Master Liu treated us to lunch: dumplings. Just two words: delicious (if you ask him to take you on a tour, you can also ask him to treat you to a meal there). After lunch, we visited the Fire Memorial Museum.\nThe atmosphere inside was too solemn, so I only took a photo of the hall. But I still hope that all tourists visiting Mohe can go inside. The two most impressive scenes were: a newlywed couple who were burned to death in their room before they could enjoy their wedding night; and a pregnant woman who, to escape the fire, hid in her home's water tank. But the fire was too big, and the water in the tank boiled, cooking the woman and her unborn baby alive...\nFinally, after visiting the museum, we went to the train station to wait for the train, and the Mohe trip came to an end... (