Hulunbuir—A Prairie for the Soul to Soar (A Ten-Day Journey to Hulunbuir and Harbin)

Known as the kingdom of pasture, Hulunbuir is like a wordless poem, a three-dimensional painting, immersing you in an inexplicable excitement and reverie. I gave Hulunbuir seven days, and with its hospitable smile, vast embrace, and unique charm, it gifted me with muddy scenery and natural warmth that I will cherish for a lifetime.

Itinerary (September 3–12, 2015)

Day 1: Depart from Shanghai, fly to Harbin. (H01179 8:30–11:40)

Saint Sophia Cathedral and its square feature a musical fountain, attracting many visitors of all ages. By the fountain in the square, we unexpectedly saw a rainbow, which made us all beam with joy. Central Street is one block away from the cathedral; walking straight down to Songhua River Square offers a view of the sunset.

[Saint Sophia Cathedral]-1

[Saint Sophia Cathedral]-2

[Saint Sophia Cathedral]-3

[Saint Sophia Cathedral]-4

[Songhua River Sunset]

Day 2: Harbin

Drive one hour to the suburban Russian-style Volga Manor (ticket 80 RMB per person). Return to Central Street in the evening for dinner and view the night scene of Saint Sophia Cathedral.

[Volga Manor]-1

[Volga Manor]-2

[Volga Manor]-3

[Volga Manor]-4

[Volga Manor]-5

Day 3: Depart from Harbin, fly to Hailar. (DZ6253 14:45–16:10)

Day 4–Day 10: Hulunbuir Northern Route Itinerary Map:

Day 4: Hailar – Jinzhanghan – Drive across Hulunbuir Prairie – Visit Ergun Wetland Park – Overnight in Ergun Town.

Crossing deep into the prairie, we reached the "Jinzhanghan Scenic Area." Standing at the highest point outside the tent, we viewed the "First Winding River Under Heaven—Moergele River" and had close contact with the largest prairie. Surrounded by herds of cattle, horses, and sheep in the depths of the prairie, the tranquil grassland embraced everything with its vastness, making us comfortable and at ease—something only possible with a chartered car.

[Moergele River]

[Hulunbuir Prairie]-1

[Hulunbuir Prairie]-2

[Hulunbuir Prairie]-3

[Hulunbuir Prairie]-4

In the moment of eye contact with that steed, my heart was instantly captured. It felt as though we had traveled from different places just for this fleeting glance. In the following nights, whenever I closed my eyes, we met again!

[Ergun Wetland]-1

[Ergun Wetland]-2

[Ergun Wetland]-3

Day 5: Depart from Ergun – Pass through Birch Forest – Lunch in Enhe Town – Visit Hawuer River Scenic Area – Overnight in Shiwei Town.

Hawuer River Scenic Area ticket is 30 RMB per person. It is recommended to drive an extra 20 kilometers that evening and stay directly in Linjiang Town.

[Birch Forest]-1

[Birch Forest]-2

[Birch Forest]-3

[Hawuer River Scenic Area]-1

[Hawuer River Scenic Area]-2

Day 6: Shiwei – Pass through Linjiang – Lunch in Taiping Tun – Drive through the Greater Khingan Range Forest – Overnight in Bailu Island (not shown on the map).

The two scenic spots near Linjiang, Eagle Beak and Moon Paozi, are worth seeing, but unfortunately it rained that day and everything was misty. In the afternoon, the sun finally came out. We drove through the wetlands and forests of the Greater Khingan Range, arriving at the mysterious and beautiful Bailu Island in the evening. Along the way, both sides were adorned with brilliantly colored forests—green, golden, and red leaves interweaving, highlighting the intensity of autumn, with ever-changing clouds and sunset waiting at the end of the road. The scenery was all along the way; whenever we saw a beautiful view, we asked the driver to stop for sightseeing and photos. We traveled on dirt roads of protected forests through the Greater Khingan Range—no paved roads, no people, no cell signal—something only a local experienced driver could do.

Bailu Island ticket is 80 RMB per person. There is a four-star hotel on the island, priced at 380 RMB per night in early September, with excellent views. Hot water and electricity stop after 11 p.m.

[Moon Paozi]

[Greater Khingan Range Forest near Taiping Tun]

[Road near Bailu Island]-1

[Road near Bailu Island]-2

[Road near Bailu Island]-3

Day 7: Visit Bailu Island – Pass through Moerdaoga – Deerbuer – Genhe Wetland – Overnight again in Ergun Town.

The natural scenery along the way was extremely beautiful. The Genhe Wetland route is full of spots worth lingering and photographing. For a deep tour of the northern Hulunbuir route, more time could be spent at Bailu Island and along the Genhe Wetland. Moerdaoga National Forest Park (ticket 150 RMB, not entered).

[Panorama of Bailu Island]

The viewing platform can only capture part of Bailu Island. This panoramic photo was taken by a travel companion who climbed a dozens-meter-high lookout tower.

[Along Genhe Wetland]-1

[Along Genhe Wetland]-2

[Along Genhe Wetland]-3

[Along Genhe Wetland]-4

Day 8: Ergun – Pass through Heishantou – Along the China-Russia border – To Manzhouli

Along the China-Russia border, i.e., the banks of the Ergun River, the scenery near the "Huli Yetu" port is quite good. The weather on the prairie is a bit unpredictable—cloudless in the morning, then overcast at noon, with sunlight streaming through gaps in the clouds, making the prairie bright and dark in patches, creating a strange landscape.

Across the fence is Russia.

[View from the hill at "Huli Yetu" port]

At the "Huli Yetu" port hill, we unexpectedly met a team of BMW motorcycle enthusiasts—super cool!

Scenery at the "Huli Yetu" port hill.

Day 9: Manzhouli – Drive to Hulun Lake – Return in the afternoon to tour Manzhouli

At Hulun Lake, one side is prairie, the other is the lake, feeling very open. Lying on the grass, watching the clouds rise and drift, listening to the wind in your ears, I really didn't want to return to the city's noise.

[Hulun Lake]

In Manzhouli, places to visit include: the National Gate, Matryoshka Square, Wedding Hall, Mammoth Park, and Museum.

When passing Matryoshka Square, we said we were going to see the matryoshka dolls, and the little kid quietly asked, "Why do you want to 'set' me?" (a pun on 'tao' meaning set/cover)

[Matryoshka Square]

[Wedding Hall]-1

[Wedding Hall]-2

[Wedding Hall]-3

[Mammoth Park]

Day 10: Manzhouli – Stop at "Hunhe Nur" Scenic Area on the way – Drive to Hailar – Afternoon flight to Shanghai (FM9128 16:20–21:30)

[Hunhe Nur]-1

[Hunhe Nur]-2

Captured the moment of goats jumping off a cliff and sheep wandering at the foot of the mountain.

Travel tips: This trip covered the northern route of Hulunbuir, i.e., the Greater Khingan Range landscape, including three types of terrain: prairie, wetlands (transition zone), and primeval forest of the Greater Khingan Range. The best time to travel is from June to September. July and August are peak seasons, partly because the prairie is at its most beautiful and partly because many families travel with children during summer vacation. September marks the start of the off-season, with fewer people. Although the prairie grass is slightly yellow, the wetlands and forests are more colorful and layered during this time—I personally like it very much. October Golden Week is generally the last wave; after that, it becomes too cold.

Accommodation: Peak season: According to the driver, in July and August, hotels are fully booked, and prices are double the off-season rates.

Off-season: In September, no need to book online because online pre-booking prices are often higher than asking locally! There are many local homestays or hotels to choose from. Homestays are about 200 RMB per night with acceptable conditions; four-star hotels can be under 400 RMB. You can call the day before to book or book after seeing the rooms on-site, giving you more flexibility.

Food: Dining in Hulunbuir is really expensive—no matter the restaurant level, it's more expensive than in Shanghai! The locals rely on these few months to earn their annual expenses; once you understand that, you'll cooperate willingly. But the food is very enjoyable. The hand-grabbed lamb (mutton boiled in plain water, cut with a knife and dipped in sauce) is never tiring and has no gamey smell. There is a Mongolian restaurant chain called "Nuomin Tala Milk Tea," with an average cost of 100 RMB per person. The environment is good, the lamb chops and hand-grabbed lamb are delicious, and the specialty is their milk tea—rich and fragrant!

Harbin's cuisine is also outstanding, with serving bowls getting bigger and bigger!

Local car rental: Since there are no navigation systems, no signals, and even no people deep in the prairie or forests, if you want to experience pristine natural scenery, it's best to rent a car locally. You'll need a high-clearance van, SUV, or off-road vehicle. We rented a 7-seat commercial vehicle; depending on the season, the cost is about 700–1000 RMB per day, including driver's labor, fuel, and tolls. Additionally, you need to cover the driver's meals and accommodation. In the off-season, some hotels provide a free companion room; if not, you generally pay the driver a 50 RMB accommodation subsidy per night.

We must give a thumbs-up to our local driver, Master Duan, for this trip. He was honest, thoughtful towards customers, familiar with the roads, and took us deep into the prairie and forests for beautiful scenery. Every time we ate lamb, he proactively washed his hands and helped us cut it with a knife.

Clothing: There is a large temperature difference between day and night. In early September, night temperatures are around 5°C, and daytime temperatures range from the teens to 20°C. A windproof and rainproof jacket is necessary, with a collarless cashmere sweater inside. Bring a lightweight down jacket just in case. Also, it's recommended to bring several long-sleeved shirts that can be worn as outerwear or as layers, because you'll be putting on and taking off your jacket many times during the day.

Water: The local water in Hulunbuir is yellowish in color, so you need to prepare bottled drinking water throughout.

Skincare: The climate is dry and the sun is strong; sun protection and moisturizing are necessary. Sunglasses and a sun hat are essential.

Specialties: Wild blueberry dried fruit (love it), wild fungus, wild mushrooms, Russian-style kvass beer, chocolate, Harbin ice cream.

Cost: For a family of three over 10 days, the total cost was about 16,000 RMB. Breakdown: three flights 7,300 RMB, 9 nights accommodation about 3,000 RMB (including driver's 6 nights), 7-day car rental 2,500 RMB (total 5,000, the other half paid by friends), meals 2,000 RMB (Harbin average 30 RMB per person per meal, Hulunbuir average 60 RMB), scenic spot tickets 600 RMB (children under 1.2m free).

Postscript: The beauty and vastness of the prairie linger in my mind. I gradually understand why so many songs praise the prairie—because every wanderer has a beloved hometown that haunts their dreams, where there is a vast land, galloping steeds, a blue sky, and a soul that freely gallops between heaven and earth~