Harbin Travel Guide ❤ Harbin Travel Guide ❤ Harbin Snow Town Travel Guide

Itinerary

DAY1 Harbin Taiping International Airport ☞ Saint Sophia Cathedral ☞ Central Street ☞ Portman Western Restaurant

DAY2 Songhua River ☞ Sun Island Snow Expo ☞ Ice and Snow World

DAY3 Snow Valley

DAY4 Snow Valley Cross to Snow Town ☞ Yangcao Mountain ☞ Snow Town

DAY5 Old Daowai

DAY6 Qiulin Company ☞ Flood Control Memorial Tower ☞ Central Street

Saint Sophia Cathedral

Saint Sophia Cathedral is the largest Eastern Orthodox church in the Far East. It is currently the best-preserved typical Byzantine-style building in China. This nearly century-old structure is majestic, simple and elegant, full of enchanting colors. The ticket for the cathedral is 20 yuan per person, with a half-price student ticket. Whether to go inside is entirely up to personal preference. Many people come just to photograph its exterior, and few actually visit inside. During the day, many white pigeons fly around, creating a spectacular scene. It is recommended to go at dusk, so you can capture both the daytime church and the church with its lights on after dark. After sunset, Saint Sophia Cathedral appears mysterious and solemn against the snow. The unmelted snow on the roof contrasts with the red tiles, looking especially beautiful in winter. In Northeast China, winter days get dark early; the sun starts setting around 3:00 PM, and it is fully dark by 4:30 PM. So you can start viewing the night scene of Saint Sophia Cathedral at 4:30 PM. Standing outside the church, watching the passing crowds, though the weather is very cold, my heart is incredibly calm. At night, the white pigeons have already returned home, and the cathedral becomes quiet. The iron framework on the other side is also part of the church. Walking under the iron frame feels like traveling through time. With the lights and the passage of time, I can’t believe that the Northeast I always wanted to visit is actually right before my eyes. One regret of this trip is that I didn’t bring a tripod, mainly because I was afraid of the cold! Taking photos in such cold weather takes courage, let alone using a tripod.

Central Street

It’s about a 20-minute walk from Saint Sophia Cathedral to Central Street. I don’t know what courage I had back then—instead of taking the bus in the freezing cold, I chose to walk, shivering all the way. Central Street is the most prosperous and well-planned commercial pedestrian street in Harbin. It starts from the Flood Control Memorial Tower Square by the river in the north and ends at Xinyang Square in the south, stretching 1,400 meters. The road is still paved with smooth granite blocks. Do you still remember the taste of candied hawthorn sticks from childhood? You can see them in almost every alley in Harbin. My eyes were immediately drawn to the rows of fruit candied hawthorn sticks. The street signs on Central Street are also quite distinctive, with European-style wrought iron plaques that highlight the historical atmosphere. The mottled marks testify to the years that Central Street has gone through. Almost everyone who comes to Central Street will stop by the Modern Cold Drink Shop to try a Modern popsicle. What does it feel like to eat a popsicle at minus 20-something degrees Celsius? Only those who have tried it know. The Modern popsicle and candied hawthorn stick both cost 5 yuan each. The Modern popsicle is really delicious, with a rich milky flavor when you bite into it. The taste is very pure. Eating a popsicle in the snow and ice—though cold, it’s very satisfying, and while eating, I exhale cold air. Red sausage is also a Harbin specialty. Street food stalls sell grilled red sausage for 10 yuan each. However, locals say that the grilled red sausage sold on the street is not authentic, but it’s fine for a quick snack. Central Street at night looks especially beautiful with the lights. Colorful lights are hung on the branches, making the whole scene somewhat dreamy. Because of the cold weather, it gets dark early in Harbin; usually, by 8:00 PM, there are few people on the streets. But Central Street remains lively until after 10:00 PM, showing how charming it is.

Portman Western Restaurant

While shopping on Central Street, I asked a shop assistant which Russian-style Western restaurant was better and more authentic. She recommended Portman Restaurant. Actually, before coming, I had learned that Macy’s Restaurant was quite popular. When we arrived there, maybe because it’s so popular with tourists, you have to take a number and wait in line. When we got a number, they said to come back in an hour. Seeing that, I went to Portman Restaurant to compare which one was better. Macy’s Restaurant might have been open for a longer time; the decoration and tables looked old, and the indoor lighting was dim, making it feel uncomfortable rather than romantic. In contrast, Portman felt very vintage and the decoration was very romantic. Most importantly, while enjoying your meal, you can watch a foreign-style performance. Upon entering, you see some vintage decorations that I immediately liked. That was one reason I was drawn to it.

Borscht Sauce Fish Floss

Songhua River

Beautiful place

Songhua River water, my childhood ocean

Nurtured us as we grew, healed our wounds

Songhua River flows quietly

When will she happily sing again?

How could I forget your youthful look?

Songhua River remains as red as in those days

I don’t know where you are going

— Li Jian's "Songhua River"

Li Jian's song praises the Songhua River in summer, but what I saw before me was the frozen Songhua River in winter. For the first time, I walked on the icy river. At first, I was cautious, but later I found the ice on the Songhua River was very thick; I could jump and run freely. The Songhua River cableway starts from Tongjiang Square (218 Tongjiang Street) in Daoli District, spans across the Songhua River, and ends at the central area of Sun Island Scenic Area (18 Fengjing Street). Originally, I planned to take the cableway across to Sun Island, but when I saw the ticket price, I decided not to buy it and just crossed the Songhua River on foot. A short one-way trip costs 50 yuan, which is not as cost-effective as walking across the river. On the Songhua River, there are many dog sleds, and the fees are not cheap. Personally, I think it’s better not to participate—the dogs are so small but have to pull a grown person; it’s really pitiful. There are also horse-drawn sleds and motorcycle-towed skiing, which are also expensive—after all, it’s not easy to do business in such cold weather. Walking on the frozen river for the first time, I was extremely excited, running and jumping. Walking from here to the opposite Sun Island is actually very cold because the whole river is exposed to the wind with no buildings to block it, so the wind is especially strong. Especially when I reached the middle, I took out my phone, but soon the battery died due to the cold, and my hand was so stiff that it didn’t feel like my own—I was even afraid my ears would freeze off. Now thinking back, it’s really funny.

Sun Island Snow Expo

Harbin is a city that accompanies, coexists, and grows with snow. Snow adorns Harbin’s winter with a delicate coat, and Harbin gives the winter Sun Island sanctuary to snow. Together, we interpret the world of snow and dreams. I can understand why the Snow Expo ticket is so expensive, because all the works are hand-carved. Such a large snow sculpture must have taken the creators a lot of time and effort. Looking closely, the details are exquisitely carved, especially the eyes, which reflect the sculptor’s skill. To bring a snow sculpture to life, you first need to look at the character’s eyes. Lifelike works are the ones that win people’s hearts. At the beginning of January, many snow sculptures were still unfinished, and many artists were working on-site. Watching them create freely in the snow and ice, I look forward to the great works they will bring to everyone. Inside the Snow Expo, there is a large open area piled with snow, so I played in the snow. I randomly picked up snowballs and threw them, having a great time. Walking along the park road, you will see various ice sculptures on the frozen lake. In summer, this is a lake; in winter, it freezes over, and many people slide on the ice. But be careful—the ice is very slippery, and it’s easy to fall. Stay safe! The ice castle suddenly reminded me of the fairy-tale feeling from Frozen: the sky is blue, the ice is blue, as if in a dream. Actually, this castle is a themed castle that looks fun, but it requires a fee. This is probably the most spectacular snow sculpture in the Snow Expo—its grandeur overshadows other works. It was my first time seeing such a large snow sculpture, and I was truly awed. Actually, snow sculptures need maintenance. Workers spray water into the air, which instantly freezes on the existing ice sculpture, helping to maintain its shape. There are snow houses, and a few of them are accessible. Don’t think it’s cold inside; they are actually heated and serve as rest areas for tourists who feel too cold. One rest house offers postcards and hot milk tea for about 10 yuan a cup.

Ice and Snow World

Harbin is a city that accompanies, coexists, and grows with snow. Snow adorns Harbin’s winter with a delicate coat, and Harbin gives the winter Sun Island sanctuary to snow. Together, we interpret the world of snow and dreams. This year’s Ice and Snow World is themed "Ice Builds the Silk Road, Snow Shines on Longjiang" and is divided into four major zones: Ice Charm, Silk Road Adventure, Snow Shining Olympics, and Heilongjiang Impression. There are 74 ice and snow landscapes, using over 330,000 cubic meters of ice and snow. I think everyone who comes to Harbin will not miss the Ice and Snow World. Its fame has reached a global level. In Guangzhou, a city where it rarely snows, there have been ice sculpture exhibitions of varying sizes, but those were very small and confined to a small space. This time at the Ice and Snow World, my eyes were truly opened. The scale of the ice sculptures is huge, and they are in an outdoor, natural environment. As a southerner, I can’t express how excited I was. To welcome the Ice and Snow Festival, Harbin even arranges special holidays for its citizens. Primary and secondary school students start their holidays early to enjoy the festival, and many local adults bring their children to the Ice and Snow World.

Clothing Tips

The temperature at the Ice and Snow World is even colder than other areas of Harbin, especially at night, possibly dropping to around minus 30 degrees Celsius. So you need to wear an extra layer. Before going to the Ice and Snow World, I added another pair of pants, stuck several warm patches on my body, and put warm stickers on my feet. Thanks to thorough preparation, I didn’t feel very cold overall.

Play Tips

Harbin is a city that accompanies, coexists, and grows with snow. Snow adorns Harbin’s winter with a delicate coat, and Harbin gives the winter Sun Island sanctuary to snow. Together, we interpret the world of snow and dreams. This year’s Ice and Snow World is themed "Ice Builds the Silk Road, Snow Shines on Longjiang" and is divided into four major zones: Ice Charm, Silk Road Adventure, Snow Shining Olympics, and Heilongjiang Impression. There are 74 ice and snow landscapes, using over 330,000 cubic meters of ice and snow. I think everyone who comes to Harbin will not miss the Ice and Snow World. Its fame has reached a global level. In Guangzhou, a city where it rarely snows, there have been ice sculpture exhibitions of varying sizes, but those were very small and confined to a small space. This time at the Ice and Snow World, my eyes were truly opened. The scale of the ice sculptures is huge, and they are in an outdoor, natural environment. As a southerner, I can’t express how excited I was. To welcome the Ice and Snow Festival, Harbin even arranges special holidays for its citizens. Primary and secondary school students start their holidays early to enjoy the festival, and many local adults bring their children to the Ice and Snow World. The temperature at the Ice and Snow World is even colder than other areas of Harbin, especially at night, possibly dropping to around minus 30 degrees Celsius. So you need to wear an extra layer. Before going to the Ice and Snow World, I added another pair of pants, stuck several warm patches on my body, and put warm stickers on my feet. Thanks to thorough preparation, I didn’t feel very cold overall.

Food

Don’t worry about food inside—there is a dedicated dining and resting area with heating. If you feel cold, you can go in and rest. There are plenty of food options: KFC, Yoshinoya, Dongfang Dumpling King, and Pacific Coffee.

The symbol of this year’s Ice and Snow World is a colorful tower resembling a castle, a bit like an Islamic mosque. The illuminated Ice and Snow World is like a fairy tale. Colorful ice sculptures make the whole place vibrant. At that moment, snowflakes began to fall from the sky, as if I were the only person in the world. Watching the snowflakes land on my shoulders, I couldn’t bear to brush them off. Many of the structures at this year’s Ice and Snow World are castle-like, giving visitors a fairy-tale feeling. Besides foreign-style castles, there are also traditional Chinese pavilions, each intricately designed. At the far end of the Ice and Snow World, there is a staircase leading to a small hill for a panoramic view. When I climbed to the top, there was a loud bang overhead—fireworks! It happened that I was climbing up just then, and the fireworks were very close. This sudden fireworks display made me feel unexpectedly happy. In the sound of fireworks, I silently made a travel wish for this year. There are still many roads to walk and many places to visit.

China Snow Valley

Though I live in the south, I long for the various warmth of the northern Snow Valley: soft, pure snowdrifts, wild grass swaying in the wind, small houses with curling smoke, simple and warm-hearted people, and an authentic folk bonfire party. The Wuchang rice grown in Wuchang, and the warm Northeast kang (heated bed) that heats up all night. Early at 6:00 AM, we set off from Harbin. After a five-hour drive, we finally arrived at the quiet Snow Valley. The cottages in Snow Valley are more rustic, with a strong rural atmosphere. Some houses have been uninhabited for a long time, and the thick snow outside has never been disturbed. The sky is very blue with a few clouds, and the soft snow on the ground blends with the sky like a painting. If you are a southerner and want to see more snow, don’t miss Snow Valley. Don’t think it’s less important because it’s not as famous as Snow Town. I can say that this place is what I miss most from this trip. The snow here is deeper and thicker, and because there are fewer people, the accumulated snow is not cleared. You can lie down and roll in the snow, leaving your footprints in the drifts. If you want to have a snowball fight, there’s enough snow here to keep you happy. You chase the sunlight and dive headfirst into a snowdrift. At first, I thought there were no entertainment activities in Snow Valley, but the innkeeper later took us to a nearby small resort. There are several activities: skiing, ice sledding, and snow tubing. For 80 yuan, you can play as much as you want with no time limit. I was a little disappointed not going to Yabuli Ski Resort, but when I heard we could ski here, I couldn’t wait. Although the ski slope here is small, it’s very suitable for beginners, and there aren’t many people. Why do I say Snow Valley has a better rural atmosphere? Because there is a bonfire party here. Everyone who comes to Snow Valley is infected by the lively atmosphere. Locals say that before Snow Town became famous, it was as rustic as Snow Valley, with bonfire parties. But after development, with more people, the bonfire party disappeared. I’m afraid that one day Snow Valley will lose its simple rural charm. At night in Snow Valley, red lanterns are lit in every household, and some houses have colored lights, adding a touch of liveliness to the quiet valley. At 7:00 PM, the bonfire party in Snow Valley begins. People from different inns gather together, circling the fire and playing games. Finally, there were a few tug-of-war matches. People from different places came together and formed friendships through the bonfire party. The weather was very cold, but at that moment, my heart was warm.

Snow Valley Cross to Snow Town

Waking up in the morning in Snow Valley, we ate the breakfast prepared by the inn to prepare for the cross to Snow Town. Northeast people have simple breakfasts: porridge, steamed buns, and eggs are the start of their day—nutritious and filling.

Crossing Tips:

If you only stay in Snow Valley, you don’t need a ticket. But if you cross from Snow Valley to Snow Town, you need to pay. The crossing is divided into two sections, with Yangcao Mountain as the boundary.

Snow Valley ☞ Yangcao Mountain: Adult 40 yuan/person, Student 20 yuan/person

Yangcao Mountain ☞ Snow Town: Adult 100 yuan/person, Student 50 yuan/person

Equipment:

Trekking poles (optional) – It depends on personal preference. Some people feel poles help prevent slipping, but you can still climb the mountain without them. Although there is snow, there are footprints, so it’s not too slippery. Just be careful in some places.

Anti-skid chains – These are actually quite important. I didn’t know they existed at first, but later I found many crossers wearing anti-skid chains on their feet to reduce strain. You can buy them cheaply on Taobao. But I still crossed without them successfully.

Auxiliary Transport:

If you get tired along the way, you can use two types of transport.

Horse-drawn sled: At the start of the crossing, there are many horse-drawn sleds taking passengers. They can take you a short distance, reducing walking. Those who get tired easily can take them.

Luggage:

I believe every crosser has a question: what to do with large luggage? If you have to bring a suitcase across, you’ll be exhausted before you even walk halfway. When I read other travelogues, no one answered this, so let me explain in detail. Regarding luggage, when you check into the inn in Snow Valley, tell the innkeeper in advance. The innkeeper will have you leave your large luggage, attach a note with your phone number, and later a car will transport your luggage to Snow Town. After arriving in Snow Town, walk along Xueyun Street to the end, find the minibus heading to Wuchangshan Gate, and confirm before boarding to retrieve your luggage. You can ride the minibus for free with your ticket—keep your ticket safe. The free luggage storage service in Snow Valley and Snow Town is very well-organized, making it convenient for crossers.

The rising sun is not too dazzling, gradually illuminating the crossing path. The formal crossing begins. Don’t worry about being alone on the path. Many people choose this route, so you won’t be without company.

Icicles have frozen. Compared to snow, icicles are a bit yellower. A large chunk of snow piled on a branch, untouched and untrampled—time seems to stand still. The distant shouts turned out to be a horse-drawn sled. I wonder how many passengers this horse has to pull in a day. The owner whips, and the horse has to run obediently. The weather is very cold, but we kept walking. I noticed frost forming on my eyelashes. I had heard that if it’s too cold, snow can freeze on your eyelashes—it was true, amazing. The snowdrifts along the way are very soft. I grabbed a handful and threw it into the air, and the snowflakes fell like a scattering of flowers. I even put a little in my mouth to taste. It felt like eating a snow cone—at that moment, I thought if I added some sauce, it would be like Taiwanese shaved ice. I was having so much fun. I grabbed snow wherever I saw it, unable to stop. That’s how a southerner looks when seeing snow for the first time. Small ice crystals on the branches glistened in the sunlight. Along the way, we encountered many red lanterns, which added a festive atmosphere and helped guide the way so we wouldn’t get lost. After walking on flat ground for about an hour and a half, we began an uphill climb. Crossing Yangcao Mountain had just begun—don’t rush; the slope gets steeper later. Don’t worry about getting lost—there are footprints everywhere, and snowmobiles have mostly created paths for climbing.

My advice for crossing: don’t sit down to rest after every few steps, as it will make you lazy and increase the hiking time. You must reach Snow Town before dark, or it could be dangerous. You can slow down, but don’t stop easily. If you really can’t hold on, you can rest once or twice during the whole journey. The higher you climb, the more beautiful the scenery. Rime ice perfectly combines with branches and leaves. You don’t want to touch it easily, afraid to disturb this serene scene. I couldn’t help but blend into the picture with the rime behind me, hardly believing it was real. Now looking back at the photos, those fairy-tale scenes linger in my mind.

Snow Town

After passing the toll gate, we reached the border of Snow Town and could descend. There was an entertainment activity along the way: you can slide down on a snow sled (similar to a snowboard). When I asked the price, 60 yuan per person, I gave up immediately. Although I really wanted to try it, the price was too high, so it didn’t seem worth it. In the end, I walked all the way to Snow Town successfully. This crossing journey will be unforgettable for me. It took 6 hours in total, and I made it without trekking poles or anti-skid chains. Though it was exhausting, every step I took left a deep impression.

Accommodation: I recommend staying at an inn near Xueyun Street, which is livelier and more convenient for seeing the night view. Maybe many people are loyal fans of "Where Are We Going, Dad?" and want to stay in those houses, but actually I don’t recommend it. The houses from the show are in the north, which is quite remote, with poor conditions. Most people only go there to take photos, not to stay.

Food: Eating in Snow Town is convenient. Every inn has its own restaurant, and the prices are uniform as set by Snow Town. I think they are a bit expensive, especially the chicken stewed with mushrooms, which costs over 100 yuan. In the end, we chose to have a hot pot buffet for 78 yuan per person. Though expensive, at least we could eat our fill.

China Snow Town

Formerly known as Shuangfeng Forestry Center, China Snow Town has a long snow season with frequent snowfall. The saying goes, "Not three sunny days in a row." Summer is rainy, winter is snowy. The snow accumulation period lasts up to 7 months, from October to May of the next year. The average annual snow depth reaches 2 meters, making it the snowiest place in China, with good snow quality and high viscosity, earning the reputation of "China Snow Town." Compared to Snow Valley, Snow Town has a much stronger commercial atmosphere, with skiing gear and food sold everywhere. Xueyun Street is the center of Snow Town, the busiest part, with a neat row of wooden houses from end to end. This is the feature of Snow Town: thick snow piled on the roofs creates beautiful shapes. In contrast to Snow Valley, Snow Town’s biggest feature is the houses. Hence, there is a saying: "Snow Valley for snow, Snow Town for houses." The archway in Snow Town is larger, hung with festive red lanterns.

Dream Home is an estate that combines accommodation, dining, entertainment, Errenzhuan (a local folk performance), and snow activities. It occupies a prime location on Xueyun Street, with a large area. The yard includes various snow shapes. Originally left over from a film crew, the set is more refined than ordinary farmyards, with wells, small bridges, and other highlights where you can take good photos. Follow the wooden walkway to the observation deck halfway up the hill to get a panoramic view of the estate and Snow Town.

Across from Dream Home, there are some illuminated houses. Although free to visit, their shapes are no less impressive. The houses with lights on are quiet, serene, and beautiful. Xueyun Street at night is lively and festive. You might want to stop by the roadside stalls and try local specialties. Nature is the best refrigerator; all fruits are displayed outside. I bought some cold peaches to try. Biting into them, they were completely frozen solid—my teeth couldn’t chew them. I guess I can’t handle such frozen fruits. There are also specialties like local dried blueberries worth trying. Frozen cherries: put one in your mouth, and your teeth go numb. Under the lights, they look particularly crystal clear.

On the second day, I wandered around Snow Town in the morning and sent myself a meaningful postcard in the freezing snow. Since I didn’t visit the north side yesterday, I decided to go this morning. The north side has fewer visitors. The houses where "Where Are We Going, Dad?" was filmed are there—if interested, you can take a look. Additionally, Snow Town has its own ski resort. If you want to experience skiing, you can go there. There’s also ice sledding, but the prices are definitely higher.

Thick snow piled on the pine trees. On our last day in Snow Town, we got a light snowfall—dense, nonstop flakes. Snow, oh snow, you are so beautiful. When the snowflakes gently fell on my face and lips, they felt like a lover’s soft kiss. The houses in the north have no merchandise outside, giving a more rustic feel. Since this is not the central area, fewer people come. This shop was impressive—it was dug out of a large snow pile. I used to think all snow was soft, but I learned there’s both soft and hard snow. This shop was made from hard snow. There are also some snow mushrooms in the north, though not as well-shaped as those in Dream Home, but you can tell these snow scenes were carefully crafted by the innkeepers. Ahead, there is a big snow mushroom. The snow mushroom, combined with the light snowfall, created a pure, undisturbed scene. I covered my eyes with my hand, unwilling to let this snow scenery disappear. I was about to leave, and my reluctance grew stronger. I wanted to take the snow home, to pack everything that happened in the snow into my pocket—but it was just wishful thinking. Snow can never be taken away. I can only pray that one day I can come back and see that pure, flawless snow again. These days, I have been running wildly in the snow like a madman, reckless and uninhibited. I only remember that I came to the north and saw snow.

On the road leaving Snow Town, I saw beautiful rime. Without sunlight, the rime was especially prominent. It’s a pity this time I didn’t get to go to Rime Island, but I saw plenty of rime along the way. I can only leave that regret for next time. Looking closely at the rime, it looks like white fluff attached to the branches, with tiny pointed tips.

Old Daowai

We returned to Harbin around 7:00 PM, very hungry. We quickly found a place to eat. I had heard that the food in Old Daowai is famous, so I gave it a try. Looking from today’s Museum Square, the eastern Dazhi Street is lined with high-rise buildings, but no matter how dazzling or massive these modern buildings are, they can’t overshadow the elegant and dignified grace of the Qiulin Company. Surrounded by white walls and blue/green reflective glass, the deep dark green of the Qiulin Company is both pleasant and striking. Amid a cluster of cold modern architecture, the Qiulin Company stands out with its elegant decoration and exquisite dome design.

The buildings near Qiulin Company have strong Russian characteristics and are protected architectural complexes. Walking on the street, you feel a foreign atmosphere. Now, the ground floors of these buildings are used as shops, which both protects the buildings and enhances their utility.

Harbin Flood Control Memorial Tower

Located on the picturesque south bank of the Songhua River, on the riverbank in Daoli District, at the end of Central Street Square, the Harbin Flood Control Memorial Tower was built in 1958 to commemorate the victory of Harbin people over the catastrophic flood of 1957. It is a symbol of this heroic city. Actually, the Flood Control Memorial Tower is directly opposite Central Street, so if you visit Central Street, you can conveniently visit the tower as well.