Winter Has Arrived | Encountering the Northern Ice City in January

When hosting the fourth season of the Chinese Poetry Conference, Dong Qing said that we have walked through one spring, summer, autumn, and winter after another together. We watch "peach blossoms blush against the red," listen to "the fragrance of rice heralds a bountiful year," sigh at "frost leaves redder than February flowers," and look forward to "wind and rain send spring away, flying snow welcomes spring." Poetry has four seasons, and seasons have four seasons. I kept wondering what the Ice City, which I had been yearning for, would be like in winter. So I had to go see with my own eyes how white and pure the snow-covered earth is in January. Maybe it's because I grew up in the south; in over twenty years, I've only seen snow a handful of times. Once when I was 10 in my hometown Jiangxi, and another time when I was in college in my second hometown, Shanghai. Both cities rarely see heavy snow. A rare heavy snowfall can make southern kids happy for a long time. So I was especially looking forward to this trip. I always feel that watching snow in winter is a kind of enjoyment. And also, with my little boy, going to the north to watch the winter snow fall slowly, the moonlight breeze, and the shadows of light on the snow in the dark night. Finally, at the end of this December, we could go to Northeast China to see the snow and encounter the Ice City I've dreamed of for over a decade at the beginning of January. Harbin, here we come!

Flight tickets: We decided to go to Harbin in early December, booked the tickets in mid-December, departure on December 28, noon, return on January 2 afternoon, 2200 per person round trip. Booking earlier is cheaper; in early December, round trips were just over 1000. You can also travel off-peak.

Accommodation: Since it was New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, it was the peak season for Northeast travel. Hotels must be booked in advance; looking for them on the spot is especially uneconomical. Especially the hot spring hotel we booked in Snow Town. In downtown Harbin, it's generally best to choose hotels near Central Street, as the attractions are nearby, making things much more convenient.

Itinerary: There are many online itineraries for the Northeast, including Harbin → Snow Town → Changbai Mountain → Rime Island, and Jilin → Changbai Mountain → Snow Town → Wanke Skiing. Since it was our first trip, we didn't want it to be too packed. We also didn't want to rush from spot to spot just for photo ops. So we settled on the route: Harbin → Yabuli Skiing → Snow Town → Harbin, a total of 6 days and 5 nights.

Time arrangement: Winter days in Harbin are very short. It starts getting dark around 4 p.m., so you must pay attention to scheduling. Moreover, the temperature at night is even colder than you imagine. Especially on the first day when you just arrive, it's inconvenient when it's dark, especially for taking taxis — that was my pain point, and I'll talk about it later.

What to wear: Many people, before going, see temperatures of -20 or -30°C and wonder how much they need to wear and how cold it actually is. The fact is, the first day is really cold. By the second day, once you're fully equipped, you adapt. The south is damp cold, the north is dry cold. If you bundle up properly, it's okay outside. But I absolutely love the indoors in the north — heating everywhere, walking around in bare feet and a t-shirt is awesome. So how to dress professionally for winter outdoors?

Clothes: Upper body — thermal underwear (preferably moisture-wicking and quick-drying), thick sweater, plus a down jacket with high down fill. Depending on the weather, you can also add a thin lightweight down or fleece jacket in between.

Pants: Thick thermal leggings or wool pants or cotton pants, plus fleece outer pants or ski pants.

Socks: No need for very thick ones. Bring several pairs of wool socks; change them if they get wet.

Shoes: I prepared two pairs. One pair of UGGs — worn for one day, they get wet easily and aren't slip-resistant. The other pair was a pair of anti-slip, waterproof snow boots bought in Harbin. My boyfriend wore hiking boots the whole time; I should have gotten him snow boots too, haha.

Other items: Gloves — two types: regular wool gloves and ski gloves. Scarves and hats are essential. Masks are essential. For those who wear glasses, buy anti-fog ones. Various warmers: foot warmers, hand warmers, body warmers — bring plenty, very necessary. Besides people, phones also need continuous heating.

Chinese Baroque Street | A Century-Old Historic Street

Chinese Baroque Street is a historic old street in Harbin. You can see early 20th-century Baroque-style buildings everywhere. It's also part of the old Daowai district. Harbin is divided into Daoli and Daowai. Daoli is the new district, and old Daowai is the old district.

After renovation, the Baroque Street connects multiple courtyards. The street-facing side has shops, while inside are courtyards, mostly for living and dining. According to locals, although it looks like the old street, the walls are completely renovated, and many are under renovation and empty.

In winter, the streets and buildings of the Ice City are covered in snow, exuding a Russian exotic atmosphere. Walking through, there's a nostalgic feel like the old lanes in Shanghai. Fortunately, on the second day, the whole of Harbin was blanketed in heavy snow. The Russian-style buildings, walls covered with mottled traces, some brackets and wires casually hanging — maybe because we went early, around 9 a.m., many shops weren't open, and many were under renovation. We saw a few scattered tourists and shop employees shoveling snow.

Near the New Year, the street was hung with red lanterns. White snow piled on the lanterns added an atmosphere of "timely snow gives a promise of a fruitful year."

This Zhang Bao Bun Shop is located on Chinese Baroque Street. It's a local delicacy you can't miss in Harbin. We went early thinking it would be breakfast, but it didn't open until 9:30. We waited at the door, hungry and cold.

Since we were here, we took a tourist photo with the famous Zhang Bao Bun, haha. Mao Ge said this photo is the most real me.

Many people come to this shop; even a Korean food documentary recommended it. Finally, when it opened, the place was almost full. Two floors. It's better for four people to order; two people can waste food — unless you have a big appetite. About 60 yuan per person. The waiter finally gave us the menu. Our appetites are small. Their tofu buns and spare rib meat buns are must-orders. Buns sold in minimum 6 pieces — that's tough. If you can't finish, share with strangers. We also ordered the must-try Northeast dish, Guobaorou (sweet and sour pork), which was very crispy. Sesame sauce cold skin noodles were soft and sticky, the sesame sauce especially fragrant. Old soup dried tofu had generous portions. After we ordered, we looked up and saw the room full of customers, even queuing upstairs.

Walking on the Frozen Songhua River | Frolicking

There's a song that even if you've never heard it fully, you can still sing one line — My home is in the Northeast, on the Songhua River...

The big bridge in the distance is the Songhua River Railway Bridge, now a popular photo spot on the Songhua River. Strolling along the Songhua River, looking at the big road paved by heavy snow, is very characteristic.

After yesterday's heavy snow, the Songhua River in Harbin covered in white snow looks like a natural ice and snow "grand stage." A vast expanse of white. Adults and children play dog sledding, sledding, and flying kites on the ice.

Snow was still falling in front of us. I couldn't help but want to capture this snowy scene.

I underestimated the power of the Ice City's temperature. Although they say it's least cold when it's snowing, on the river the wind made it hard to keep my eyes open.

Even my eyelashes had little snowflakes. A southern kid falling into the north's big snow vat, so happy.

The big boy who forgot his hat and scarf was shivering on the ice.

The frozen Songhua River was as beautiful as a fairy tale. Friendly reminder: There are risks on the ice. Don't go where there are warning signs. In case it's not fully frozen...

The Songhua River Railway Bridge I mentioned — coming up the iron stairs, many pedestrians make the snow turn to ice. Shoes must be slip-resistant. On the first day, I wore UGGs and fell hard on the stairs! Shoes must be slip-resistant!

Electronic devices easily shut down outdoors. Two phones died already, even with warmers pasted on them. A standard tourist photo.

Central Street at -20°C | Eating Ice Cream

In Harbin, you must eat the ice cream on Central Street — Madi'er! I ate two in one go. The original flavor is the best. Eating ice cream in -20°C in Harbin in winter is really something!

First, we walked along the bustling street. Harbin Central Street is the largest and longest pedestrian street in Asia, and the busiest commercial street in Harbin. It's as lively as the pedestrian street at People's Square in Shanghai. Central Street has many Russian buildings and Russian shops.

There are many people during the day, but actually, Central Street is more beautiful at night than during the day.

Even the street signs along the road were covered with snow — such a rare sight!

There are also many ice sculptures on both sides. This polar bear stood out, with a red scarf, giving a festive atmosphere. It was several times taller than me. I couldn't help but take a photo with it.

Famous Harbin sugar-coated hawthorns, besides frozen ones, come in many flavors: frozen spicy sticks, frozen peppers, frozen chicken feet. I didn't see them at this stall.

Saint Sophia Cathedral

Since it was still early, we went to Saint Sophia Cathedral, very close to Central Street, less than a 10-minute walk. It was still snowing. As one of Harbin's landmarks, we had to see it. The daytime and nighttime views each have their charm. The large dome is typical Russian roof architecture. The interior was under renovation, so we could only view it from outside. Many girls were taking photos on the side of the cathedral — a good photo spot.

Madi'er ice cream is a must-buy on Central Street! If you see a queue, that's the one. You must eat an ice cream in sub-zero temperatures! But everyone should gauge their ability.

As night fell, Central Street seemed to change into a golden coat, too brilliant and dreamy.

To be honest, many pedestrian streets in China are somewhat disappointing, but Central Street is one of the few I recommend visiting. It has its own regional characteristics. Also, there are many Russian-style restaurants along the street.

As the originator of Russian cuisine in China, you can't miss this century-old restaurant — Huamei Western Restaurant. It's easy to find, at No. 112 Central Street. The staff are friendly and will introduce their classic dishes. Average per person: about 100 yuan. What we ordered: 1. Grooved bread with jam! Big Lieba (Russian bread). There's also a long queue outside their shop for bread. 2. Pot beef! Not melt-in-your-mouth, but sweet and sour, easy to chew. 3. Red cabbage soup, similar to borscht, with a little cabbage and minced meat. Quite appetizing. 4. Soft fried pork loin — the dish we least expected, ordered ourselves without recommendation, but actually very tasty. Fried with egg coating, very tender. 5. Russian salad, similar to mashed potatoes but with coarse potato chunks. Not refined but okay.

Exploring the Ice and Snow World | Dreamy Ice City

"If you come to Harbin and don't go to the Ice and Snow World, you've come in vain," a local brother told me.

Harbin Ice and Snow World is a must! Tickets: 300 yuan at the gate (price seems lower this year). WeChat: 280 yuan, bought on the official website, entry 4 hours later. This year's Ice and Snow World runs from December 22 to the end of February. Opens at 11 a.m., lights come on after 4 p.m. During the day, the ice lanterns aren't lit; you only see ice sculptures. It's convenient to get there by taxi, but it's hard to get one when leaving. I suggest calling a Didi in advance, or take a bus back.

Ice and Snow World — the main tower is the tallest, largest, and most ice-consuming ice landscape this year, 40 meters high, equivalent to a 15-story building. It also has a beautiful name — "Crown of Ice and Snow," like twin towers. The construction difficulty is unimaginable.

These castle-like ice sculptures were hand-carved with knives and shovels under freezing temperatures — unique in the world!

They embody the lifelong skills of hundreds of ice sculptors, masterpieces of craftsmanship. Under the brilliant lights at night, the ice sculpture art is spectacular!

The nonlinear arcs rely entirely on ice sculptors hand-polishing at heights of tens of meters. From afar, it looks like a crown. Now I think the ticket price is not really expensive. And due to the seasonal nature, Ice and Snow World only appears for a few months each year. Before spring comes, it's dismantled. Before coming, I had been considering whether to visit this attraction; it would be a pity to miss it.

"Viewed horizontally, it's a range; from the side, a peak. Far and near, high and low, each is different." How is such a huge Ice and Snow World built? 10,000 people, 15 days, 600,000 square meters! In half a month, Ice and Snow World rises from the ground! So stunning!

Tickets include all attractions. We only stayed for less than 2 hours because we weren't well-prepared for the cold. It was extremely cold at night. Several attractions had long queues, like the Extreme Slide and the Circular Snow Tube, estimated at over 2 hours. We gave up. In the future, you can arrange to go earlier.

Where do all these ice blocks come from? All the ice here is natural ice from the upper reaches of the Songhua River. When it's the Greater Snow solar term and the ice layer meets the thickness, it's harvested.

Huh? I feel this year's designs are very castle- and crown-like, full of girlish heart...

About cold protection: Harbin Ice Show Theater has several shows a day. If you're tired or cold, you can go early and wait. Each show has limited capacity; if you're late, you can't enter. We were late. The last show was at 9 p.m., but we couldn't hold out, so we watched on the big screen outside. There's also the Ice and Snow Art Palace, an Ice and Snow Post Office, and several restaurants. If all else fails, you can also go to the restroom to warm up.

Look at the real temperature. Actually, a few hours in Ice and Snow World is super cold. Surrounded by ice sculptures, imagine putting yourself in a freezer at -20°C with a fan blowing. Two hours made us flee...

Freezing cold — everyone must wear masks, hats, warmers, and bring hot water. Dress warmly is key!

Also, carry a power bank. A phone can freeze and shut down in minutes. Two phones died here.

Yabuli Skiing | First Experience

From Yabuli onwards, it's a simple tourist mode. We joined a 3-day local tour. We had to take various transport and unlock various activities. For better participation, actually we were lazy and didn't want to plan. Although it was a tour, it wasn't the "sleep on the bus, take photos at stops" elderly tour. Low cost, great scenery, and a good experience. The day before we went skiing, heavy snow in Harbin delayed many flights and closed highways. Luckily, we were still in Harbin that day and unaffected. On the day of departure to Yabuli Ski Resort, the guide contacted us. We gathered at 5:30 a.m. to go to the train station. Originally it was a bus, but due to heavy snow, the travel agency quickly arranged train tickets.

From Harbin to Yabuli, a green train — haven't seen one in years, first time riding. The green train goes directly to Yabuli Station, about 3 hours.

It looked like a train from old movies. The opposite passengers were a big family, an old lady with her daughters and sons-in-law drinking beer with red sausage along the way — very Harbin feel! The carriage was warm, especially near the window. Along the way, the snow got thicker. The scenery outside was beautiful. But stops are announced manually, so listen carefully!

After lunch at a nearby scenic area, we changed into ski suits and experienced the original Northeast transport — horse-drawn sleigh, first to feel the once "bandit den."

This Black Wind Village looks like a simple scenic spot newly developed for tourism. At the entrance, a few brothers dressed mightily will say a code phrase: first line "Heaven King covers earth tiger," second line "chicken stew with mushrooms." Then these actors, with professional ethics, chat with you before letting you in.

Inside, there are spots imitating the meeting hall where big brothers swore brotherhood. You can drink free stout wine and take photos with props.

I couldn't help but take classic tourist photos again.

Another set of photos wearing floral cotton-padded jackets and big mink fur.

Yabuli Ski Resort is the largest, most advanced, and best-equipped comprehensive ski resort in China. It has multiple beginner, intermediate, and advanced slopes. For us who had never skied before, coming to such a resort was actually a waste, haha. Before arriving, we had changed into ski suits and goggles. At the resort, the guide gave each of us a ski card to get ski boots, skis, and ski caps. Keep the card safe, return it with the equipment. You don't need to wear too much under the ski suit — a long-sleeve shirt and sweater is enough. Too many layers is inconvenient for skiing.

Since both of us were first-timers, we hired a coach for better experience. Coach for two, 400 yuan for two hours. No tip asked after; tip optional. The coach helped put on boots, carried the skis, taught us how to use the skis and slow down, and accompanied us the whole time. My boyfriend had better balance and learned quickly; soon he was skiing down smoothly. I was timid and didn't dare to let go. The coach basically took care of me.

Finally, I learned slowly. The coach would take photos and videos if your phone battery holds, haha. We skied for less than 2 hours. The ski boots were heavy, and since it was our first time, our feet were very tired. Wind was strong, temperature low (-30°C), fingers and face numb from cold. Next time, I'll learn more and come back to play on my own.

Haha, missed one photo: someone happily twisting in a yangko dance — looked quite professional jumping up.

Frozen Fantasy Journey | Ten Mile Gallery

This journey still lingers in my memory! Clear skies at extremely low temperatures (-20°C), one-meter-thick snow, rime, snowy mountains, off-road vehicles, snowmobiles, snow dragons... truly a visual feast of ice and snow, recreating a Frozen-like fantasy journey!

Northeast winter fulfills all southern kids' fantasies about winter.

Before going into the mountain, be well-prepared: hat, mask, scarf, gloves, warmers — not one missing! Also, long snow boots. The snow on the mountain is especially thick, over a meter. It's best to wear leg guards over pants to prevent snow from getting into shoes and pants.

To see the Ten Mile Gallery, you must cross the Big Bald Mountain. Big Bald Mountain is the highest peak in Heilongjiang Province. How high? The main peak is 1690 meters above sea level. To go up, you can't rely on feet alone.

Both sides of the Ice and Snow Gallery road were covered in rime, unrealistically beautiful. Under the sunlight, it was dazzling.

Big Bald Mountain's silly roe deer — amazing how these animals aren't afraid of cold. Only we, no matter how much we wear, are still freezing.

Taking an off-road vehicle through the continuous birch forest. Amidst the bumpy ride, I look forward to the upcoming scenery even more.

In the mountain, you must try snowmobiling with the young riders for excitement and thrill. Going up, the rider seemed to want us to feel a 90-degree slope or something, almost overturned. Luckily, he braked. Going down, another rider drove slowly, not thrilling, but better to enjoy the peaceful beauty of traveling through the snowy mountain.

At the top, everything was white, time seeming frozen. Through the forest and snowfield, all beauty was in sight.

Rime hung everywhere. The snow scenes in the gallery were so beautiful.

The snow view at the top was stunning: "Cold river snow willows fresh as day, jade trees and silver flowers fill the spring" or "Last night thousands of flying flakes, who cut strips of clear snow?" Ice feathers crystal clear, graceful, ready to dance in the high cold sky. Finally, I could only say, "Damn, so beautiful!"

In front, a field of rime. The deeper you go, the more beautiful it gets. Fewer people go inside, the snow untrodden.

Blue sky, rime, red lanterns, ice icicles... can't fully describe.

Everywhere, white rime hung on trees. A tiny one looked lovely.

A rime-covered ice tree, white ice flowers blooming layer by layer, creating China's beautiful winter.

Writing our names in the snow with a sense of ceremony.

It was so cold on the mountain. The mask in my hand, frozen stiff instantly from breath.

Happy like a 200-pound fatso, melting into the snow, so joyful.

Unlocking China's Most Beautiful Snow Town | Fairy Tale World

They say go to Harbin for winter snow, but the most beautiful snow scene is in Snow Town. I believe, like me, everyone remembers Snow Town from the last stop of the first season of "Where Are We Going, Dad?" Snow Town is located in Changting Town, Hailin City, under Mudanjiang City, Heilongjiang Province. It's a forest farm under the Dahaishan Forestry Bureau. Its academic name is Shuangfeng Forest Farm. But when developing tourism, they thought the name was hard to remember, so they called it Snow Town. It's also one of the few scenic spots in China named with "China." Best viewing time: late December to March of the next year.

Here, the snow season is long, snowfall frequent, total snow volume the highest in China, with good quality, high viscosity, and well-preserved. Entering Snow Town requires a ticket. Initially, it was free, then from dozens of yuan to now 120 yuan per person, including a 5-yuan scenic area sightseeing bus, unlimited rides within two days.

Snow Town's main street is Xueyun Street. Everywhere are horse-drawn sleighs and sleds, adults pulling kids on sleds, kids giggling. Shops on both sides are hung with red lanterns. This place is not only loved by children but also brings joy to adults because of the purity and romance under the white snow.

Recreating original natural landscapes with thatched cottages and farmyards. Snow Town has over 130 households, most former forestry workers now in tourism.

Thick white snow piles on rooftops. Houses have snow-covered fences. Snow Town has layers of snow. Over a hundred households are like connected snow houses. With wind, snow can form one-meter-thick snow mushrooms in various shapes.

A few days before we arrived, the whole city had been snowing. Luckily, when we reached Snow Town, it was covered with thick snow with minimal footsteps — perfect for photos. Snow mushrooms looked like cotton candy.

Dream Home has a highest viewing platform and snow tires you can play with freely. Entering Dream Home also requires a ticket.

The cold air from Lake Baikal and warm moist air from the Sea of Japan frequently meet here, creating "summer without three sunny days, winter snow spreads through the forest." The beauty of Snow Town is beyond words; you have to experience it.

We stayed at the only hotel in Snow Town. Although the guide said the hot springs are artificial, we still wanted to experience the thrill of outdoor hot spring in the snowy landscape.

This set of photos is taken at an abandoned small train in front of the hotel, apparently for photo shoots. The effect was great.

Snow Town also served as a filming location for Zhang Yimou's movie "The Taking of Tiger Mountain." Truly a world of silver and white, crystal clear.

The place with the most snowfall in China is not the coldest Mohe, but Snow Town!

Northern scenery is infinite; you must come to Snow Town at least once in your life!

The most anticipated night view of Snow Town: when night falls and the lights come on, the most beautiful night scene of Snow Town begins.

In recent years, Snow Town has improved a lot. The severe "black guides," "black travel agencies," and price gouging of previous years have subsided. The days of instant noodles priced at dozens of yuan are gone. After rectification and regulation, local businesses dare not raise prices arbitrarily. After all, it's deep in the mountains, material transport isn't convenient. Many scenic spots are slightly pricier than outside, which is normal. Also, accommodation has improved. I believe in getting what you pay for. If you choose cheap, there's a reason. Book accommodation in advance. Most here are kangs (heated brick beds). Private cars are not allowed into Snow Town; only tourist buses can enter. So don't drag big suitcases around; store them at the hotel or on the bus.

Be sure to check out the night view from the observation deck. Fairy Tale World doesn't require a separate ticket to enter.

Thick white snow piles on the roofs of log cabins, against the red lanterns, sweet and cold. All sensations are bathed in warm yellow gentleness.

There are two best viewing spots in Snow Town: Dream Home (separate ticket) and Fairy Tale World. Don't miss either.

At night, the whole village is dreamlike, with lighting decorations. Entering the fairy-tale village, the snow mushrooms under red light are especially charming.

Blue and yellow contrast — so beautiful!

The snow mushrooms in Dream Home are the most perfect, separated by wooden fences.

Xueyun Street at night. It was New Year's Eve. The small square had a New Year's Eve party. The town was especially lively and festive, adding surprises to the upcoming Chinese New Year.

Lighting ceremony at the small square. Everyone gathered, looking forward to the New Year's Eve party, making wishes for the new year.

Since we're in the Northeast, how could we not experience Errenzhuan (a local folk art)? Within Dream Home, you can watch Errenzhuan. If you plan to leave the scenic area, you can re-enter. Our Errenzhuan show started at 4 p.m. We arrived 10 minutes early to grab seats. Sitting in front gives a better experience.

You never know until you've gone: How fun is skiing on a natural snow slope? What's it like eating an ice cream on Central Street? How fast does your phone turn into a brick at -20°C? What kind of "luck" do you need to see rime at sunrise?

Some random things to add...

About Accommodation:

Harbin: Yake Xiaozhen Holiday Hotel (Central Street Branch), Manor Town King-size Room, holiday price around 500+ yuan. I gave it high praise. Actually, it's 3 km from Central Street, but taxi is convenient. The hotel has many thoughtful details, all smart design, warm and comfortable.

Yabuli: Yabuli Ski Resort Yaxue Hotel, suite, large room. Since it's near the resort, no evening activities, so we slept early. Breakfast side dishes were delicious. Price included in tour fee; I checked, holiday prices around 700.

Snow Town: Xueyun Hot Spring Resort Hotel, twin standard room, the only hotel in the scenic area. Need to walk through Xueyun Street further in. The hotel facilities don't meet 5-star standards, but they're good. Our room in Phase 2 was newly renovated, still a bit smelly. Holiday prices around 1800.

Forgot to take photos of the hotel room. It's a twin standard room with simple facilities, but fairly clean. Breakfast was plentiful. Window seats could see the hot spring pools at night.

It was New Year's Eve. We went early, so no one was in the hot springs — very clean. There were several outdoor hot spring pools. Staff said they're all ordinary clear water pools. Indoor hot springs had several red wine pools, rose pools...

After soaking, you can go to the second floor for a Korean sauna, cheap, not included in room rate. Drink plenty of water during sauna. You can buy snacks and try frozen pears on the first floor.

About Food:

Eating in the Northeast is honestly not expensive. Northern portions are generous; order less. Don't miss Northeast dumplings — as the saying goes, "dumplings are better than anything, lying down is more comfortable than anything." Before the trip, I made a guide: Local dishes: Zhang Bao Bun, Laochang Spring Pancakes, Lao Chu Jia, Zhang Fei Braised Meat, Zhongxiang Old Guandong Iron Pot Stew, Portman Western Restaurant, Huamei Western Restaurant, Guandong Courtyard, Madi'er Ice Cream, Yushi Flavor Restaurant, Jinggangshan BBQ, Laowei BBQ, Oriental Dumpling King... too many to count. Some we didn't have time to try. About half of those we tried were good.

Shanhetun Iron Pot Stew: ordered spare rib pot — all chunks of ribs, stewed for about 50 minutes. Meat and potatoes were very tender and flavorful. Average 70 yuan per person.

Also ordered local specialty drink Kvass, like a barley soda — tasty. Their signature small flower rolls can be dipped in the stew broth.

Oriental Dumpling King: chain store. We ordered three-delicacy and beef dumplings. I thought it was average. Average 40 yuan per person.

Zhang Bao Bun's Guobaorou, mentioned earlier, at the old Daowai store.

Huamei Western Restaurant was also good, mentioned in the Central Street section.

This one called General Steak, a Korean restaurant we randomly entered — really delicious. Special shout out to their Happy Rice Bowl. We also ordered takeout for late-night snacks. Lots of food, cheap! Average 80 yuan. Besides these, we also ordered some BBQ and grilled cold noodles at night — all tasty, no disappointments. But takeout was slow because roads are slippery. Northeastern takeout is packed in three layers. Order early if you want late-night snacks.

About Souvenirs: Central Street has many Russian shops, though prices are high. We didn't bother looking elsewhere. Bought mostly chocolates and candies for gifts. Also must-buy Qiulin Red Sausage — bought dozens of packs for gifts and shipped them. Didn't take photos. Choosing Qiulin Company is safe. Tasted it back home — it's garlic-flavored smoked sausage.

About Tours: Actually, many places in China don't require a tour group. Independent travel is easier. For lazy people who don't want to plan, half-independent travel works. In the city, you arrange yourself; you can go to some attractions as you wish and arrange meals freely. We just did a 3-day tour because we needed to arrange various transport. Originally considered self-driving, but friends advised against it due to the Northeast's special climate. Also, don't be tempted by cheap low-price tours. I believe in getting what you pay for.

Typing these last words at home, it's 8 p.m. on February 13, 2020. Last year I was traveling in Nepal and didn't spend New Year's Eve with Mao Ge. This Spring Festival has been full of unexpected events. Tomorrow's Valentine's Day we can't spend together, but it's okay. Every day with you is Valentine's Day. And Northeast, after meeting you, the north is no longer a distant place. I hope this disaster passes quickly, so that the ice and snow kingdom can still be seen by more people before it melts. Wishing everything returns to normal, and all goes well.