Harbin - A Date with Snow - Snow Village Fairy Tale - Rime on Big Bald Mountain

Stubbornness in a 40-Degree Temperature Difference??

As a native of Guangdong, I have a special obsession with snow. In my life in Zhuhai, there's everything but snow. After longing for years, in December 2019, I, a Guangdong girl, set off to see the snow, finally keeping my date with snow. Time: December 18, 2019 – December 23, 2019. A southern girl finally arrived in Harbin, where it snows. Every frame I saw felt like realizing a dream. Central Street, full of exotic charm; Snow Village, where snow made me believe in fairy tales; Big Bald Mountain, where the cold froze my eyelashes and turned my face red, yet couldn't stop me from joyfully rolling in the snow; Yabuli, where I picked up a new life skill by skiing and felt the thrill of speed. If you never step out, you'll never know the charm of a city. Harbin, an unmissable city experience – these are feelings I only had after arriving in Northeast China?? Proven by experiment: iPhones really shut down in extreme cold. Sticking hand warmers on the back can extend battery life. Carry a power bank when going out. Huawei phones are much more powerful in this regard. The sun sets around 3 PM, so daytime for sightseeing is really tight. I'm not sure if we went to the wrong places, but on the streets, after 7 PM there were few people. It felt a bit unsettling to go for a walk after dinner to digest.\nHow to Dress in Northeast China\nAs a southern girl, I had no concept of -20°C. How cold is it? How to dress warmly enough? How to keep warm? I want to recommend the following items to those in need. To avoid sounding like an ad, I removed the store names; you can search by keywords. Since I figured I wouldn't use them again after the trip, I just bought them on Taobao. The most recommended for girls: 1000-gram extra-thick leggings. These saved my life. Even though they make legs look thicker, they're warm. We can't compete with Northeast girls in cold resistance. In Harbin's -20°C, I saw many Northeast girls wearing fur coats with bare legs, and I shivered just looking! When strolling in Harbin, wearing just one pair was enough; I could add a knitted skirt to cover the bulk. In Snow Village, I had to wear this pair plus two more lined leggings, making my legs ridiculously thick. But this was indeed my lifesaver! If your lower body is warm, you won't feel cold.\nKnee pads are also necessary. On the first day without them, I felt a bit shivery. On the second day in Snow Village, I put on all my gear, and the knee pads kept my knees very warm.\nBesides lined leggings and knee pads, a pair of cashmere socks is essential. Actually, my shoes weren't great – the lining wasn't thick enough. It's better to buy shoes with thick lining and higher tops. Cold feet are really uncomfortable. My shoes made me feel like my toes were falling off. Also, buy shoes one size larger because you'll wear thick socks. High-top snow boots are great for Snow Valley and crossing Snow Valley – they really help. With knee pads and high tops, you won't feel cold easily. You also need a windproof thick cotton-padded jacket or down jacket, preferably a long one. Plus a scarf. Generally, the cold in the south is bone-penetrating, even if you wear a lot. But in the north, as long as you dress thick enough and seal yourself tightly, the wind can't get in.\nDeparture! Zhuhai Jinwan Airport → Harbin Taiping International Airport\nLook at the contrast: the blue sky and white clouds at Zhuhai Airport when we left, and the snow piles at Harbin Airport upon arrival. I was fearless back then. Mid-December in Zhuhai can reach 26°C, while at midnight in Harbin it was -25°C – a full 40-degree difference. When the plane landed and I saw the snow piles on the tarmac, I screamed in my seat: 'Ah, snow!' Don't mind me; that's the first reaction of a Cantonese person seeing snow.\nNote: I boarded the plane wearing single shoes. All my luggage was checked. My big down jacket couldn't fit in the suitcase, so I carried it. Later, I was so glad I held that jacket for the six-hour flight. We flew with Longjiang Airlines; the plane probably stayed overnight at Harbin, so there was no jet bridge when we deplaned. I walked off the plane in those single shoes!! In -20°C, I ran to the shuttle bus in single shoes!!\nSee me before boarding and after landing: before, I wore a short-sleeve shirt and a thin knitted jacket; after landing, I bundled up tightly, afraid of letting any cold in. I'm a girl who prefers warmth over looks. Harbin Airport might be the only airport with dedicated changing rooms. Not far from the baggage carousel, there were several changing rooms. I quickly went in and put on all my gear – I've never worn so many clothes in my life. However, after exiting the airport, we didn't even walk 50 meters before getting on the airport bus to the city. Inside the bus, it was so hot I questioned my life. My clothes and gear made me sweat during the 40-minute ride! For the first time, I realized how powerful northern heating is.\nI also saw the sunset from the plane. There's no direct flight from Zhuhai to Harbin. We took a 2 PM flight, stopped over in Hefei, then flew to Harbin, arriving around 11 PM. Longjiang Airlines' meal was mediocre, but at least the flight wasn't delayed.\nAfter getting off the airport bus, we took a Didi to the hotel. At the bus stop waiting, I finally got to touch snow. Without hesitation, I reached out and grabbed it.\nThe plane meal was disappointing, so as soon as we got to the hotel, we ordered takeout. Harbin's first meal: local dumplings and grilled skewers. We were so hungry that everything tasted good.\n? Beginning My Romantic Date with the Ice City ??\nToday I visited Harbin's famous spots: Central Street, Songhua River, St. Sophia Cathedral.\nWoke up naturally in the heated room – it was quite comfortable, but the heating was too strong. My throat got dry in the middle of the night, forcing me to drink water. I applied layers of skincare. Here's a tip for girls who haven't been to the north: bring super moisturizing skincare, always carry lip balm, and bring a body lotion with high oil content, like horse oil, to stay comfortable under the heating. When choosing a hotel, it's best to pick one near Central Street. Our hotel was a 5-minute walk from Central Street, very convenient. From the hotel to St. Sophia Cathedral was also 5 minutes. Many tour groups heading to Snow Village or Yabuli depart from the cathedral, so staying near Central Street proved perfect.\nGrilled red sausage, a Harbin specialty, 10 RMB each. Everyone on the street was eating one – delicious.\nWe visited in mid-December; the ice sculptures on Central Street were still being built. A bit regretful not to see the intact ice lanterns.\nThe famous Central Street, a long street lined with classic Russian-style buildings.\nCouldn't resist taking a photo under the four big characters 'Central Street'.\nThe day before we left, Harbin had heavy snow. The accumulated snow had to be cleared promptly; otherwise, it would turn to ice and cause slips.\nIce blocks were placed everywhere, waiting to be carved into artworks.\nAs a southerner, everything seemed fresh. Even the little snow on streetlights looked beautiful.\nFully bundled up, only my face was exposed. Except when taking photos, I covered my face tightly with a scarf, leaving only my eyes. In such cold, sealing yourself tightly keeps you warm. When cold while strolling, you can duck into any shop to warm up, then continue.\nAt the end of Central Street is the Songhua River, with a flood control monument, beyond which lies the river. I was amazed to see the entire river frozen solid. A small regret: I didn't see the winter fishing – it must be spectacular. Standing by the river, I didn't feel the biting wind; maybe because of the sun, the breeze felt warm and gentle, quite pleasant. Ice-cutting teams were working on the river – the ice for the Ice and Snow World is harvested here. Strolling along the river was enjoyable. There was a small patch of uncleared snow, and I finally stepped into some thicker snow, which made me very happy.\nFirst lunch: Western restaurant at the Huamei Xi on Central Street. It's a Russian-style restaurant with beautiful, ornate décor. But I really couldn't get used to Russian food. Reviews recommended the canned lamb, but when I put it in my mouth, I almost threw up – it was very gamey and fatty. In Guangdong, we stew lamb with lots of spices or slice it thin for hotpot, but this was too hard to accept. Also, the service was terrible; the staff looked fierce. For me, this restaurant was totally not worth visiting – a very unpleasant experience.\nSt. Sophia Cathedral??\nAbout a 10-minute walk from Central Street, we reached St. Sophia Cathedral. This cathedral is so photogenic. It sits in the city center surrounded by other buildings, making it very approachable. The snow in front wasn't deliberately cleared, so the white ground and red church created a beautiful scene.\nSt. Sophia Cathedral St. Sophia Cathedral\nPlaying on the Songhua River????\nWe took a Didi to the Songhua River cable car. Harbin is famously a city of gambling (traffic). On a weekday at 2 PM, not peak time, we still had to queue for a Didi for over ten minutes. Waiting outside in the cold was unbearable, so we waited inside a small mall next to the cathedral. All malls close at 6 PM – indeed, a city without nightlife.\nWe took the cable car from Swan Castle near Central Street to Sun Island on the other side of the river. Swan Castle is close to Central Street, but it was too cold to walk, so we took a taxi. The Didi drivers in Harbin were all very talkative and gave practical tips. We even met one who shared history about Harbin – loved it! At the ticket office, the seller kept urging us to pay extra for a private cabin. We thought it unnecessary for such a short distance, and indeed it was. We went around 3 PM and found no one at the cable car entrance; we had the whole car to ourselves. The timing was perfect to watch the sunset from the cable car – wonderful.\nFrom the cable car, we saw people walking on the frozen river, so we decided to walk back from the opposite bank. It turned out to be an excellent decision – the river was so much fun.\nTook a photo with the sunset.\nMy feet stood on the Songhua River. After longing for so long, I finally rolled in the snow. I lay on the river surface, overjoyed.\nStanding in the middle of the river, enjoying the dusk, was truly beautiful. When crossing the river, be sure to step only where others have walked; avoid any untouched patches. Return to the shore before it gets completely dark.\nLook at the temperature difference... Every day in Harbin averaged -20°C.\nI really liked the snow on the tree stumps.\nLet's have an ice pop and an iron pot stew.\nOn Harbin's Central Street, you can't miss a Made'er ice pop. Eating an ice pop in winter is actually quite refreshing. It's rich in milk flavor, and it saves the embarrassment of melting too fast and staining clothes, because the outdoors is a natural freezer! Eating ice pops also tests your teeth's health.\nCentral Street lit up at night.\nMade'er Cold Drink Hall.\nBesides ice pops, don't miss the iron pot stew. We passed by a stew restaurant with many locals inside, thinking it must be good. We went in, took a number, and found they had a group-buy deal. Believe it or not, such a big pot of stew cost only 80 RMB, plus a bowl of steamed rolls. The two of us couldn't finish it. The pot had corn, pumpkin, potatoes, chicken feet, ribs, and green beans, with a thick, delicious sauce. We ate until we were stuffed, but only managed a third of the pot. Super satisfying! I fell in love with this iron pot stew. Later, during the whole trip, the best thing I ate was this incredibly cheap stew. Now I suggest: when traveling to Northeast China, bring along several compatible friends; otherwise, you'll face the awkwardness of huge portions. Each dish is huge, so you can only order one or two dishes, and you might not dare to try many items for fear of leftovers.\nThe iron pot stew itself.\nOn to my dream Snow Village????\nI booked a two-day tour to Snow Village on Taobao. We gathered at the cathedral early in the morning. The advantage of staying near Central Street was that we could sleep a bit longer and didn't have to drag luggage far. Many tours to Snow Village and Yabuli depart from the cathedral. Early in the morning, the area was packed with buses. Since we were unfamiliar with the area, and Snow Village is far from Harbin with inconvenient transport, and we'd heard about various scams, we decided to book an almost all-inclusive two-day tour on Taobao. It proved to be a wise choice.\nA ray of sunlight streamed in – warm.\nOn December 20, we set off for Snow Village. As soon as we got on the bus, the guide said Snow Village had heavy snow the night before, and the expressway was closed, so we had to take the national road. The whole journey took about 6 hours, if I remember correctly... We departed at 6 AM and arrived at Snow Village at 1 PM. Along the national road, we passed small villages covered in white snow. I kept taking photos with my phone, and whenever I saw a low house, I would wake up my travel companion Wu and say, 'Look, so beautiful!'\nAt the entrance of Snow Village, all buses stop. Passengers take their luggage and go through the gates.\nInside Snow Village, the first thing we saw was the legendary Xueyun Avenue. It felt like I had finally arrived at the place that often appeared in my dreams! Ah, my little dream came true!\nIron pot fish stew – two fish in a big iron pot, with infinite refills of vermicelli, cabbage, and bean sprouts, plus side dishes like spicy cabbage. Northeast-style spicy cabbage is really delicious.\nI took out a can of cola from my bag and stuck it in the snow to chill. It became happy, frosty cola. Drinking cola while walking on Xueyun Avenue – what a wonderful happy day!\nDoes it look a bit like Hokkaido? Low houses and thick snow.\nThick snow on low houses – isn't that what your dream fairy tale world looks like?\nOutside the shops, giant fatty fish were neatly arranged. Snow Village feels so lively. At the end of Xueyun Avenue, there is a boardwalk. Walking up, you can overlook the entire Snow Village.\nOverlooking Snow Village from the boardwalk, the mountains framing the small houses – I can't find any adjectives other than 'beautiful'.\nWooden huts, snow, strings of corn – a very Northeast combination.\nEvery shop had a cute snowman out front.\nNatural outdoor freezer: to chill beer, just stick it in the snow. Soon you'll have icy cold beer.\nThe same goes for frozen fruits. I tried frozen pear and frozen persimmon. You need to soak them in cold water to thaw the ice shell, then eat. I prefer frozen persimmon; it's like soft persimmon sorbet.\nSnowflakes falling in Snow Village – at this moment, I couldn't help believing in fairy tales.\nUsing flash, you can capture snowflakes falling in front of you. Taking photos outdoors is really challenging. Unluckily, I bought gloves that didn't work well with touchscreens. Every time I wanted to take a photo, I had to remove one glove and expose my hand to press the phone. My photographer Wu almost cried from cold. Special shout-out to him!\nWu said he was so cold he lost all will to live.\nI tried the 'pour boiling water and it turns to ice' trick. There's a rule: in Snow Village, you're not allowed to do this on main streets because the ice can cause slips. Usually, it's allowed in alleys after dark. I tried many times but didn't get a good result. Once, I poured the water all over my hat. Cleaning the ice bits from my hat took a long time.\nLook at the snow on the swing – you can imagine how heavy the snowfall was in recent days.\nFairy tale world with lights on.\nThroughout the trip, I feel Snow Village isn't as scammy as the internet says. Everything now has a clear price, and it's standardized across Snow Village. For example, a plate of 15 dumplings costs 38 RMB at every dumpling shop. The prices are comparable to first-tier cities, but this place is in the middle of nowhere, so it's understandable. Anyway, with clear pricing, if it feels right, just eat. I once had grilled cold noodles for 15 RMB, the first time I tried them. Whether it's expensive or not, back in Harbin city, takeout cold noodles cost about the same. Overall, I recommend Snow Village. Find a reliable tour group and join a two-day trip – it's quite enjoyable.\nPlaying on Big Bald Mountain??\nBig Bald Mountain is the highest peak in Harbin. After the first day in Snow Village, we got up early to head to Big Bald Mountain. The guide said the wind at the summit is fierce, and that morning it might be around -32°C. He told us to put on our thickest clothes, so I obediently wore all my thick leggings. Oh my god, I'd never worn four pairs of pants in my life! Four! Among them was a 1kg cotton legging. It was a bit hard to move, but for survival, I did it.\nWe were lucky: the weather was great, sunny with blue sky. The snowy field crossing began.\nLook at the thick snow piled up like mushrooms.\nI rolled directly in the snow. A southerner's happiness is simple and pure. Seeing snow, I started screaming, then fell into the snow and rolled, regardless of anything. Although cold, it was incredibly joyful!\nThat day, the weather was particularly good. The sky cleared up, no fierce wind. The rime and blue sky were absolutely stunning.\nI didn't bother with a mask, so my face got a natural 'blush' from the cold, but I thought it looked beautiful. My hat, scarf, and clothes were covered in snow. Even my eyelashes had a layer of frost. Still, that didn't stop me from throwing myself into another patch of snow to roll again.\nWu's eyebrows and eyelashes were also covered in frost.\nBecause my shoes weren't high-top snow boots, I had to wear gaiters to prevent snow from going over my knees.\nMy favorite photo, no doubt. No filter – just different angles and brightness of the sky showing different shades of blue. Such blue with such white is incredibly beautiful.\nLook at the snow on both sides – easily knee-deep with one step. Whenever I saw such thick snow, I stepped right in. As long as it reached my knees, I was happy.\nI love small houses with snow scenery – it gives a sense of peaceful times.\nTo reach the top of Big Bald Mountain, we had to take a special vehicle. Before that, we also tried a snowmobile for a short ride.\nPanorama of Big Bald Mountain.\nErlang River Scenic Area, a small scenic spot at the foot of Big Bald Mountain. I heard many independent travelers to Snow Village choose to stay here. It's very quiet. Walking around the scenic area, I felt like I was lost in Hokkaido.\nIt snowed in Yabuli.\nAfter Snow Village, we arrived in Yabuli. We stayed at a homestay in Yabuli and experienced an outdoor hot spring at -20°C. Truly unique: wearing a swimsuit, dashing from the heated room into the freezing outdoors, then plunging into the hot spring – what a thrill! After so many days in Harbin, I had seen enough snow, but for someone who had never seen snow before, just snow wasn't enough – I wanted to witness heavy snowfall. I checked the weather forecast every day, but it didn't predict snow. However, in the small village of Yabuli, one morning after breakfast, when we were about to go skiing, I saw snow falling outside. I sprinted out. Wow! Snowflakes were falling thick and fast. At that moment, I was deeply moved. Honestly, tears welled up in my eyes! I finally saw snow falling with my own eyes!\nLook how happy and smug I am.\nIn just a short while, the car window was covered in snow.\nFirst time skiing: I felt I had picked up a new skill. Yabuli International Ski Resort – I heard national athletes train on the advanced slopes. It had been snowing all morning. While skiing, the snow suddenly became heavier. I was too busy skiing to take photos of the snow, but this experience was unique: I learned to ski on a snowy day. I think I can brag about this for a whole year. We hired two instructors. Initially, we thought we'd just fool around and fall on the slopes. But the Northeast people are really persuasive. While queuing for equipment, instructors helped us put on boots and get gear, then coaxed us into hiring them. After some persuasion, we finally hired instructors. From chatting, I gathered they were from the nearby village and weren't professional instructors. They could ski themselves but weren't good at teaching. My female instructor directly took me to the intermediate slope, told me to make a pizza wedge, then blocked me in front to guide me down. She didn't teach much technique. Luckily, I'm a quick learner and bold. After two runs with her, I learned. The instructor fee was for one hour, and they could take photos and videos. Basically, after two runs, they left. After the instructors left, we bravely took the chairlift to the slope ourselves. When I skied down independently, I truly felt the joy of skiing – the thrill of speed. And it was snowing; as I descended, snowflakes flew before my eyes – it was amazing! Although I wasn't fully satisfied with the instructor, I don't regret spending the money. Traveling all this way, it's better to pay a bit and learn a skill than to embarrassingly fall on the beginner slope. In the end, I picked up a new skiing skill and even declared that I would go skiing in Shennongjia next time!\nFully geared skier #1 and #2. We ended our skiing trip in Yabuli at 1 PM, had lunch, and returned to Harbin. We arrived back around 5 PM; it was already dark. The illuminated St. Sophia Cathedral presented another kind of beauty.\nBack in Harbin again, the feeling of returning from the countryside to the big city was amazing. In Yabuli, there were no streetlights at night, and no pedestrians on the road. Coming back to Harbin felt like returning from primitive society to civilized society! For dinner, we chose to have skewers. The famous Jingangshan BBQ. This time we stayed in Nangang District, wanting to see a different side of Harbin beyond Central Street. Jingangshan BBQ happened to be near the hotel, so we decided to go. It's a true internet-famous restaurant – you can really feel Northeast people's love for BBQ. Not only tourists, but also many locals filled the place. The restaurant had two full floors; the queue packed the lobby. They called numbers in groups of 50, with staff leading groups to continue queuing inside. They announced numbers using a speaker on a high platform – it felt like a big sale rather than a BBQ restaurant. We arrived around 6 PM and waited about an hour. Despite the popularity, the staff were efficient and friendly – no wonder it's so popular. As a Cantonese, I worried about the owner: before we even ordered, they served free dumplings, bean porridge, cabbage, and prawn crackers. I feared the owner might lose money. The sauerkraut dumplings were top-notch and could be refilled unlimitedly. When I was almost full, they brought more dumplings to add to my plate; I felt guilty for refusing because I couldn't eat anymore.\nIn Harbin, we drank local Harbin beer.\nGrilled flatfish – first time hearing about and eating it. The fish was tender and delicious.\nSkewers arrived, cheers!\nLet's eat these skewers and drink this beer – we're friends now.\nExploring the City\nIt was the Winter Solstice. With no specific plan, we wandered around: visited a bookstore, took a bus, went to a farmer's market, saw another church, and explored the city on foot. These few days have firmly put Harbin on my list of favorite cities.\nAfter a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we set off. Gogol Bookstore, rated one of China's most beautiful bookstores, is indeed quaint with European flair. The creative area was my favorite; I bought lovely fridge magnets and coasters.\nGogol Bookstore is great for photos, but when we visited, there were almost no tourists. Everyone was quietly reading, so I felt shy taking photos – just snapped a few quickly and left.\nAt Old Chef's, we had cold noodle salad, beer braised tendon, and Di San Xian (stir-fried potatoes, eggplant, and peppers). Average taste but huge portions.\nPassed an unknown church without the crowds of St. Sophia; the red walls were great for photos.\nTo feel a city, you must take its public transport.\nThe bus stop sign showed Harbin on Winter Solstice: -24°C, cloudy.\nI sent myself two postcards from Gogol Bookstore.\nPassed by Qiulin Company – wonder if it's related to Qiulin red sausage?\nThe official opening of Ice and Snow World was on the afternoon of December 23, but we had to leave by plane on the 23rd. I thought I'd try my luck to sneak in before opening. Took a Didi there, and it felt several degrees colder than elsewhere, probably due to all the ice sculptures. At the entrance, workers were making final preparations for the next day's opening. The management was good, and we couldn't find any loophole. Seeing it from outside was already satisfying. Through the glass of the ticket hall, we could see the big ice sculptures. So we inevitably took a photo with Ice and Snow World – a 'been here' shot.\nThe ice wall at the entrance was already impressive.\nTook a photo with the lonely ice apple.\nGoodbye, hope to meet again soon.\nHarbin, December 23, 2019 – time to say goodbye. In just a few days, Harbin left a deep impression on me. It has both delicacy and ruggedness – it's hard not to love it. Although a Cantonese person really cried from cold, this short trip was a very special experience for me. It fulfilled a childhood dream – seeing and playing in snow, and it was magnificent. That feeling of realizing a dream is wonderful.\nHarbin West Railway Station → Changchun Airport → Zhuhai\nHarbin, I will come back. Hope it won't be too long until our next meeting.??