The First Trip of 2020: From Snow Town to Harbin, Leave Some Blank for the World

Watching snow is the greatest respect for winter. For our first trip of 2020, we chose Snow Town and Harbin. This was my first time to Snow Town, and Mr. Xu's second. Four years ago at the beginning of the year, I had been to Harbin and also to Erlanghe, about 50 kilometers from Snow Town. At that time, Snow Town was receiving the most frenzied negative reviews online, so we stopped at Erlanghe. This time, we decided to go to Snow Town not only to see the purest snow scenery but also to find out what the prices were really like and whether it was as exaggerated as portrayed online.

In the early morning, the sunlight in Snow Town was bright and clear.

Under the sun, the snow mushrooms looked extremely dreamy.

Taking off my cotton coat, I felt the warmth of the sun.

The husky sled dogs were obedient and sturdy.

A girl from Northeast China.

After dark, with the lights on, Snow Town became even more dreamy and unforgettable.

In Old Daowai, Harbin, there were huge snowmen and Bingtanghulus (sugar-coated hawthorns).

Waiting for a sunset on the Songhua River.

Listening to the sounds around on Central Street.

Central Street crowded with people at night.

On the first day of 2020, I encountered Snow Town. The road to Snow Town was not easy to travel, whether coming from Harbin or Mudanjiang, you had to drive a long national road. If it snowed, the road became even more dangerous. Yet, this "village" hidden in the mountains still attracted tens of thousands of tourists.

Due to its geographical location, transportation to Snow Town is not convenient, and natural supplies are scarce in winter. So the people living here used mules, a nearly traditional means of transport, to transport supplies, and they are still used.

Snow Town, also known as Heilongjiang Snow Town National Forest Park, was established in 1999 and is a national AAAA-level tourist scenic area. It is under the administration of the Dahaillin Forestry Bureau of Heilongjiang Province's Forest Industry General Corporation. Due to the frequent convergence of cold air from Lake Baikal and warm moist air from the Sea of Japan, as well as the microclimate of high mountains and dense forests, it creates a unique microclimate where "summer has less than three sunny days, winter snow fills the forest." Snowfall begins every October and lasts until April of the following year, a snow season of 7 months, with snow accumulation up to about 2 meters. This is what creates the romantic scenery we can see today.

On Xueyun Street, dog sleds were everywhere. Two huskies or Alaskan Malamutes were harnessed to a modified chair, pulling tourists along. The dogs were sturdy, and the charge was 100 yuan per person.

Sure enough, sled dogs maintained their posture even in the cold wind.

Xueyun Street is the most bustling street in the Snow Town scenic area. The small wooden houses on both sides have been converted into various family hotels, restaurants, etc. During the day, it looks like a lively and extremely beautiful splashed-ink landscape painting. At night, seen from a drone, it looks more like a living "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" after 3D reconstruction.

Along the way, we met many sled dogs. They were not afraid of people; when called, they would come up and rub against you gently.

Snow Town is located in a forest area, at the foot of Laotudingzi Mountain, the first peak of the "Three Giants of Longjiang" (Heilongjiang). So it is surrounded by mountains. This small village hidden in the mountains, besides the popularity from "Where Are We Going, Dad?", had its own inherent appeal. Such heavy snow and the preserved snow mushrooms are rarely seen elsewhere.

Mountains, pines, wooden houses, snow, and festive red lanterns. The scene in Snow Town was an unadorned freehand Chinese painting. The classical aesthetics of China were fully expressed here.

The morning sunlight was beautiful. Climbing up the steps, the shadow cast by the sun was stretched long.

The beauty of Snow Town is best appreciated from a height. This year was not a year with much rain or snow, but even so, the roofs here were covered with a thick layer, shaped by the wind into unique edges.

Because of the heavy snow and mountains, there is also a ski resort in Snow Town. Although not as famous as Yabuli, it is still a paradise for skiers.

Under the sun, the temperature of minus ten degrees Celsius did not feel too cold. On the first day of the new year, we should face the new year with a brand new look.

The houses with the most snow accumulation were no longer inhabited, becoming good spots for people to enjoy the scenery.

Such beauty is the work of nature, nature's best gift to humanity.

The pines are evergreen, weighed down by snow. In the north, during the long winter, pines are one of the few touches of green.

Children from the south all love snow and have a special yearning for it. Before coming north, we couldn't truly understand the phrase "Like salt thrown in the air" from our Chinese textbooks. After coming north, we deeply realized that knowledge in books can only be truly remembered and understood through practice.

No wonder people always want to come here in winter; indeed, they won't be disappointed.

What I like most in the north is the pines after snowfall, covered in white snow, yet the green always shows through the gaps. I have painted many such pines in snow, but seen few. So that day, I couldn't help taking many photos, wanting to capture more.

2020 has arrived. I have some expectations for what the new year will bring, and also some fear of getting older.

On one side of Xueyun Street, there is a hidden Snow World. This Snow World has many free amusement facilities, and also some paid ones like snowmobiles and snow tubes, which charge according to equipment. We took the sled provided by our inn and had a great time playing there.

The sled provided by the inn. There were specially designated snow slopes. After finding a good position and sitting down, we slid down with gravity, feeling the speed and the wind. We had so much fun that we forgot about the cold.

During the day, Xueyun Street was relatively quiet, but at night it became lively again.

Frozen strawberries, grapes, yellow peaches, pears, and persimmons left outside... In northern winter, the outdoors is a natural refrigerator with its own personality, creating these rare delicacies.

Putting on the big floral cotton-padded jacket provided by the homestay, the northern winter no longer felt cold. I went to buy a Bingtanghulu and walked with a bounce.

The water flowed swiftly, and the temperature was not too low. The river here had not frozen yet. In this icy world, we could still hear the gurgling sound of the stream.

I squatted in the snow and wrote the characters "Jiangsu." When the next snow falls, these traces will be buried again.

On the eaves, there were many icicles. The snow melted into water due to rising temperatures, then instantly froze again when temperatures dropped sharply. These icicles, though dangerous, looked beautiful.

The frozen river was suitable for activities like snow tubing. The pines, illuminated by the sun, cast long shadows on the mountain.

Sitting on the bridge, I admired the distant scenery.

One could clearly see how deep the snow was. The houses in the northeast were mainly low-rise bungalows, and the snow was almost reaching the height of the houses.

Wearing the floral cotton-padded jacket of the northeast felt perfectly natural here. I even found it amusing, and many people turned to look as I walked by.

To enter the scenic area from the gate of Snow Town, you need to take a shuttle bus inside the scenic area. The shuttle bus has designated stops. After getting off, you walk to find your accommodation. Since dragging luggage on the snow is very inconvenient, we chose the closest place, "Snow Town No. 1," which was also convenient for checking the actual prices in Snow Town.

It is said that this was indeed the first family hotel in Snow Town, and now its scale is quite large. Guests staying there are provided with many items for free, like the floral cotton-padded jacket I was wearing.

The location of Snow Town No. 1 was very good. Although not on the sides of Xueyun Street, it was only a 2-minute walk to Xueyun Street and also a 2-minute walk from the shuttle bus stop. This saved us a lot of trouble with luggage. Also, because it was not on Xueyun Street, it was a quiet spot within the lively area.

The small courtyard was filled with snow. In the back kitchen, golden corn was hanging, which looked very appetizing. Wearing the red jacket, the setting was particularly photogenic.

Outside Snow Town No. 1 was the large stone tablet of "China Snow Town," which also served as a gathering and disbanding point for many tour groups. We spent three days and two nights at Snow Town, eating and sleeping there. The heated kang (brick bed) and authentic northeastern cuisine truly satisfied all my longings for the northeast.

At the entrance, there was a rental room where guests could use items for free and return them after use. They thoughtfully provided thick snow boots, which kept our feet warm. There were also distinctive floral cotton-padded jackets, which were fun to wear. Of course, play equipment was also available, and we rented some to play with during our stay.

In the lobby and dining room, there were self-service areas with drinks and instant noodles, paid by scanning a code. Bottled water was 3 yuan, cola was 5 yuan. The prices were not much higher than in the city, very reasonable for a scenic area. This setup was reportedly not for profit but for the convenience of guests.

There were many photo walls in Snow Town No. 1, marking the passage of time.

There were many rooms, usually fully occupied during peak season. The rooms are mainly heated kang, ranging from double to quadruple rooms. We had always known that northeastern farmers liked to sleep on kang, but had never experienced it. This time we had the opportunity to really feel it.

We stayed in a room with floral-printed sheets and a kang, a quadruple room with four sets of bedding. The biggest advantage of sleeping on a heated kang is warmth, because the bed is heated, so only a thin quilt is needed. Indoors in the north, no matter how cold it is outside, the room is always warm like spring.

Outside the window facing the bed was a vast snowfield. The world covered in white snow looked exceptionally wonderful in the light.

Sitting on the heated kang, the whole body felt warm. Compared to the cold indoor winter in the south, the north was much happier. With kang and heating, the happiness index soared.

We went during the New Year holiday, so accommodation prices were a bit higher. On normal days, the value for money would be higher. Taking the New Year price, a double room was 380 yuan, a quadruple room 580 yuan, average per person just over 100 yuan. It was still affordable, not as exaggerated as online rumors.

Each room had its own bathroom and shower, with hot water available instantly.

There was a dedicated water room in the public area. Although each room had a kettle, we were lazy and preferred to get hot water directly from there.

There was also a restaurant in Snow Town No. 1, serving northeastern cuisine. Since we were lazy and didn't want to search for other food, we ate all our meals there. The menu was displayed on the wall, with dishes and prices clearly visible.

The restaurant was quite spacious and could accommodate many people at the same time.

The classic chicken stew with mushrooms was served in a huge bowl. When it arrived, we were shocked—it was too much to finish! There was half a chicken stewed with mushrooms, very fresh.

Stir-fried sauerkraut and shredded potatoes. We randomly suggested this combination, and the kitchen actually complied, haha. We were happy. Northeastern sauerkraut is delicious, and stir-fried with shredded potatoes, it was mysteriously tasty.

The twice-cooked pork was very generous in portion. Because we asked for extra spicy, it suited our Sichuan taste. The pork slices were cut large, giving the feeling of eating meat heartily in the north.

The most representative northeastern dish, Guobao Rou (sweet and sour pork), had a sweet and sour taste. The white vinegar enhanced the flavor of the ingredients. It was even better eaten hot. Guobao Rou is truly authentic only in the northeast. What we had in the south was always lacking something. It was crispy outside and tender inside, making you want more.

This was a local wild vegetable, a rare green vegetable in winter. Overall, the prices for food here were not high. Because the portions were large, two dishes were enough for two people, and sometimes even too much. Generally, two dishes cost less than 100 yuan, less than 50 yuan per person, very good value.

After the lights were on, the world turned red. Red lanterns hung high, reflecting a purplish red on the snow. The lights were the best guide home.

The large stone tablet of "China Snow Town" had become a popular spot for tourists to take commemorative photos.

Because it was January 1, 2020, there were parades and bonfire parties. Everyone came out of their homes to celebrate the festival together, which created a great festive atmosphere.

The frozen Bingtanghulu outside looked very tempting string by string.

Frozen pears, frozen persimmons, frozen yellow peaches—each was a magical taste created by nature. A tip: remember to thaw them before eating, otherwise, they might break your teeth.

The infrastructure in Snow Town was quite good. The large signposts glowed at night, making it easy to find your way.

In the northeast, how could you not eat dumplings? Freshly rolled dumpling wrappers, prepared fillings, filled and wrapped quickly, the speed was astonishing. The wrapped dumplings were thrown outside, and soon they froze. In the northeastern winter, the freezer is just decoration.

Stalls in Snow Town offered food and play equipment for sale or rent, very convenient.

Just after nightfall, the sky was still blue, and the warm yellow lights of the houses lit up. The contrast between cold and warm colors was striking and beautiful. No wonder complementary colors make good combinations.

I took several long exposure shots to capture the peaceful beauty of Snow Town. It gets dark after 4 p.m., and in the long nights, the snow becomes the best companion.

Many northeastern houses had golden corn hanging. This scene used to appear only in TV dramas; now it was right before our eyes. We didn't know the meaning behind it, but it looked harmonious and beautiful.

When it was completely dark, no light could be seen in the distance. At that time, more tourists arrived, many from Harbin, Jilin, and Mudanjiang. Amid the noisy crowds, the place was as quiet as ever.

The romantic snow mushrooms piled up one by one. Each snowfall left its mark. For the long seven months, these marks would remain, never disappearing.

Large frozen persimmons, 15 yuan per kilogram. Compared to prices in Harbin, this was indeed more expensive. But for us, seeing them for the first time, we wanted to try. Frozen persimmons need to be thawed in cold water until soft before eating. Otherwise, they might be suitable for hitting people, haha.

I remember a joke: "In the northeast, if you want room-temperature beer, it's minus 25 degrees; if you want iced beer, it's minus 5 degrees." The bottles of beer placed there perfectly illustrated this joke.

The Madier ice cream sticks left in the snow. In the north, ice cream doesn't need a freezer to be sold. Coming to Heilongjiang, you must try Madier—it's delicious.

There were self-service Bingtanghulu stalls, relying on honesty. You just take a few strings and scan the code to pay. The Bingtanghulu was stuck directly in the snow. Probably because the temperature was too low, the vendor didn't want to stand outside selling, trusting people's integrity.

2020, China Snow Town, shared with the world.

Strolling on Xueyun Street, listening to songs from afar, brushing past countless strangers. This lively, steaming life was the true face of the new year.

"Baroque" is an artistic style that originated in Italy in the 17th century, characterized by intense colors, ornate decoration, and delicate carving. It is recognized as one of the great architectural styles of Europe. In Harbin, you can see this scenery without going to Italy.

This was my second time to Old Daowai. Although the locals consider it a congested and chaotic old district, to me it is a microcosm of Harbin's last century, a place full of the rich atmosphere of daily life. If you come in the early morning, you can see a lively market with low prices and a wide variety.

Walking on Baroque Street, which was once brilliant, the earliest place where national industrial and commercial people gathered. It also declined, becoming a shanty town. But now it has regained its "brilliance," carrying a strong historical imprint, showing us a different historical district.

Chinese Baroque was first proposed by Japanese scholar Yutaka Nishizawa. He divided Harbin's modern Chinese architectural styles into two categories: one is traditional Chinese architecture, and the other is Chinese Baroque architecture, which absorbed Western classical styles. These Sino-Western architectural forms have been preserved to this day and are studied by countless architectural scholars. Of course, this street today has its own unique flavor.

The wind in Harbin is strong in winter, biting the face. Strolling down Baroque Street with my camera, I unexpectedly bumped into the local delicacies.

I saw an old man selling sweet potatoes pushing a cart from afar. The steaming roasted sweet potatoes were misty. The potatoes were large, and I couldn't help buying one to warm my hands and stomach.

Hiding behind the sweet potato, my face was veiled in mist, revealing my gluttonous nature.

I picked one that wasn't too large. This red-hearted sweet potato looked delicious.

The sweet potatoes in the north, perhaps due to the large temperature difference, tasted better than those in the south. Sweet and floury, I couldn't stop eating.

The New Year was approaching; the streets were full of bright red lanterns, festive and cheerful.

The snowmen in Harbin were more elaborate than those in Snow Town, carefully shaped. Walking along the street, I saw from a lucky cat to a pig holding a red flag. I was tempted to "steal" the snowman's Bingtanghulu.

Cute Russian nesting dolls. There were many Russian elements on this street, naturally because of the proximity.

Standing in front of a mottled door, these were traces of time. I always liked old buildings; they seemed to tell stories of memories.

The once-popular "breaking wine" (a type of drink) could still be faintly seen in the snow-covered places.

In the northeast, the breath you exhale instantly turns into fog.

Sitting on a green bench, watching people come and go, listening to various accents.

These bronze sculptures were interesting, showing daily life from the last century. The rarely seen knife sharpeners, the nearly extinct rickshaws... In the changing times, some things are replaced, some are preserved as memories.

Winter in the north: bare branches, desolate scenery.

The Songhua River had changed a lot since I came a few years ago. The Songhua River Ice and Snow Carnival started here. So the entertainment on the river was much more standardized and relatively safe.

Whether day or night, there were always many people on the Songhua River.

There were many unique buildings on the river, interesting to explore. Also, there were temporary shops like KFC and Pizza Hut for tourists to dine and warm up.

There were many ice activities, like horse-drawn carriages and banana boats. In the north, you must try these.

We chose the extra-long ice slide. Sitting on a sled and sliding down, the speed was fast, and you could feel the wind rushing past. The price was reasonable: 50 yuan for three rides. The only bug was that after sliding down, you had to walk back up, but otherwise, it was great.

The Songhua River was frozen thick, then covered with snow. It was rare to see exposed ice like this, without blue ice but with ice cracks, which was fascinating for us.

From the sun gradually setting to the sky turning all red, together with thousands of people, we quietly waited for a sunset on the Songhua River.

Finally, back to Central Street. I always liked to come at night, when the lights on both sides were bright, giving me the feeling of walking into the lights.

The northeast is often thought to have no nightlife, but here, even late at night, it was still lively, especially just after the New Year.

The branches were covered with hanging snow, glittering under the lights.

Walking through the crowd, I used my camera to record every trip of my own.

In winter, Central Street becomes more lively as night falls. The sound of vendors selling Madier ice cream, the aroma of grilled red sausages in the air, and the frozen Bingtanghulu that could break your teeth.

Suddenly turning my head, I saw him/her amid the glowing lights.

A snowman advertisement for Coca-Cola.

The Bingtanghulu in the north are mainly made of hawthorn and fruits. The fruits were frozen hard, which I didn't think tasted great. Hawthorn also needed to be thawed. Having one after a meal was very satisfying. But I missed my favorite: hawthorn with glutinous rice.

The red sausage, smoked after being grilled, had a strong smoky flavor. It tasted best when eaten hot. Every time I come to Harbin, I take some home, as a souvenir and as a taste memory.

Perhaps because it was time to leave, my pouty expression was captured by the camera. After returning, I have forgotten my mood at that time, but I find the photo vivid and interesting. So I will end the whole travelogue with this picture.

The first trip of the new year began in the icy world. Over the years, I have traveled to many places, but I still vividly remember the excitement when I booked the first flight to the northeast. Although I have been to many more places now, that feeling never returned. But in this new year, I still hope to "stay young forever, stay forever passionate." Heilongjiang, see you next time.