【Time Flows Like a Song, Unstoppable Steps】, Telling You a Beautiful China《Episode 3: The Splendor of Summer》
It is said that summer is a season of brilliance and heat. Meteorology generally considers the hot months of June, July, and August as summer; some also define summer from the summer solstice to the autumnal equinox. There is a Chinese proverb: "Summer begins, summer ends, summer never leaves." Simply put, from the start to the end of summer, heat is its theme. Hence, among the people, there are sayings like "resting in summer" and "staying indoors in the height of summer."
For those who love to travel, summer embodies passion and life, representing the radiance of flowers. Our motherland is vast, with diverse geography and climate. Even in the hot summer, many places remain spring-like and pleasantly cool; and whether in the south or north, there are "cool capitals" and "summer capitals." Thus, during the scorching summer, Chinese people have a variety of choices about where to go!
Xining, Qinghai, has a cold climate most of the year, and its bustling season is its short summer. Every summer vacation, Qinghai enters its most beautiful season of the year. At this time, tourists from all directions flock to various parts of Qinghai, and Xining becomes a transit point for Qinghai-Tibet tourism. Especially during the Tour of Qinghai Lake International Road Cycling Race and the blooming of Qinghai's rapeseed flowers, hotels in Xining are almost fully booked, and rooms are hard to find. If you plan to come to Xining, be sure to book accommodation in advance!
Xining is called the Summer Capital, and its summer is cool and pleasant, with an average daily temperature of about 20°C. The city center is not large, the streets are clean and orderly, completely free from the congestion and noise of a metropolis. The difference in people's summer attire is evident: we tourists from the south mostly wear autumn and winter clothes, while locals wear summer clothing.
The famous Xining Dongguan Grand Mosque is one of the four major mosques in northwest China. It was first built in 1368 at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty. Because it was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt in history, the building we see was reconstructed in 1979. The mosque is magnificent, with a strong classical charm and ethnic style. It features carved beams and painted rafters, resplendent and magnificent, appearing ancient, elegant, solemn, and dignified everywhere, rich in Islamic religious characteristics.
The famous Mojia Street Food Street: old yogurt, cold noodles with sauce, beef pulled noodles, saozi noodles, guokui (baked flatbread), nang bread, boiled beef, lamb paomo (pita bread soaked in lamb soup), lamb offal soup, big plate chicken, various steamed and boiled dishes, and barbecue—everything you can imagine. It can be called a collection of Northwest cuisine. The famous "Ma Zhong Restaurant" is also on this street. Here, you can eat to your heart's content, enjoy the strong Northwest flavor!
The famous Mojia Street Food Street: old yogurt, cold noodles with sauce, beef pulled noodles, saozi noodles, guokui (baked flatbread), nang bread, boiled beef, lamb paomo (pita bread soaked in lamb soup), lamb offal soup, big plate chicken, various steamed and boiled dishes, and barbecue—everything you can imagine. It can be called a collection of Northwest cuisine. The famous "Ma Zhong Restaurant" is also on this street. Here, you can eat to your heart's content, enjoy the strong Northwest flavor!
Transportation in Xining: You can reach Xining by plane, train, or high-speed rail. There is no subway in the city, but buses are very developed. For 1 yuan per ride, you can go anywhere you want. In summer, there are many trains and buses to Tibet, Qinghai Lake, Chaka Salt Lake, Guide, Menyuan, Qilian Mountains, and other places. Tickets can be booked online, and it is convenient to travel. However, the best way to travel in Qinghai is to drive yourself or charter a car, which allows you to connect the scenic spots for sightseeing. It is both fast and economical!
"Ren Jian Shang Li, Ren Gui Zai De" (People value propriety, and virtue is precious), hence the name Guide in Qinghai. Guide is a little-known place on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, belonging to the Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Qinghai Province. It is 130 kilometers from Qinghai Lake and 95 kilometers from Xining. The average altitude is 2,100 meters, with a humid climate all year round, and the maximum summer temperature is around 20°C. The main attractions in Guide include: Colorful Danxia Peak Clusters, Kanbula Forest Park, Qianzi Lake Wetland Park, and the Yellow River Clear Waterwheel Square.
Guide appears rugged on the outside but contains beauty within. Its natural scenery is unique and beautiful, especially the Yellow River cultural landscape, which is pleasing to the eyes. In the summer of 2000, then Vice Premier of the State Council, Qian Qichen, saw the clear waters of the Yellow River in Guide and was deeply moved. He wrote down the excellent line "The Yellow River is clear in Guide under heaven," making Guide famous at once.
"Seeing is believing." At this moment, facing the rolling clear water of the Mother River, your perception of the Yellow River will be overturned: it is so clear and beautiful! Nowadays, traveling thousands of miles to see the blue water of the Yellow River, experiencing Yellow River culture, holding a handful of clear Yellow River water, and having an intimate encounter with the Yellow River have become popular choices for many tourists coming to Qinghai.
"The Yellow River is clear in Guide under heaven." Only by being there in person can you truly feel the profound meaning. Looking at this clear, sparkling, and unstoppable river, you will feel a heartfelt gratitude. This is the Mother River of our motherland. We have lived and multiplied in her bosom for generations. As Chinese people, we should be proud of this!
The Yellow River Clear Waterwheel Square is located on Binhe South Road, 5 kilometers west of Guide's long-distance bus station. There is currently no public bus to get there. You can take a local farm vehicle for 10 yuan per person. The Waterwheel Square features the Yellow River Maiden statue and the huge rock inscribed with Mr. Qian Qichen's line "The Yellow River is clear in Guide under heaven," accompanied by rockeries, wooden bridges, boardwalks, lights, and other cultural facilities. It is a large music square showcasing Yellow River culture.
Known as "Colorful Peak Clusters, Xuanyuan Houtu," the Guide Ashigong Danxia covers an area of 113 square kilometers. It is located on the north bank of the Yellow River within Guide, 80 kilometers from downtown Xining, adjacent to Kanbula National Forest Park (60 km) and Guide Qianzi Lake Wetland Park (10 km). It is a national geopark characterized by Danxia landforms and geological relics. It mainly consists of ocher-red rock formations and colorful canyons. The peaks within the park are abrupt and dense, with strange and magical geological shapes, seemingly crafted by nature, making it a unique wonder of Qinghai.
With its unique natural landscape and highly valuable geological structure, Guide Danxia has become a famous cultural tourism destination in Qinghai. It is now a "National Geopark" and a 4A-level scenic area. It is said to be comparable to Antelope Canyon in Arizona, USA. Every year, it attracts a large number of domestic and international tourists and scholars for sightseeing and research.
The Ashigong National Geopark consists of seven canyons and peak clusters. Among them, Nüwa Gorge, Qianfo Gorge, and Tongtian Gorge are typical Danxia wonders. The rock bodies are mainly reddish, mixed with various colors. Sandstone layers are exposed on the surface, making the geological evolution process very intuitive. At the same time, the peak clusters come in a myriad of forms, presenting a primitive and desolate scene.
Transportation: After visiting the Yellow River Clear Waterwheel Square in Guide, take the bus from Guide to Xining and get off at the entrance of the Colorful Danxia Peak Cluster Scenic Area. After the tour, take a passing bus back to Xining from the scenic area entrance.
Chaka Salt Lake, located in Wulan County, Qinghai, is one of the four major salt lakes in the Qaidam Basin. Chaka Salt Lake is called the "Mirror of the Sky" because it has a flat and open terrain. Under the high-salinity lake water, there is a white salt crystal layer several meters thick with a high degree of mineralization, which has a mirror-like reflective ability. At the same time, Chaka Salt Lake sits among the continuous Qilian snow mountains. The snow mountains are reflected in the salt lake. Moreover, the sky here is often low and the clouds are far away, with blue sky and white clouds mirrored on the lake surface, creating the magnificent scene of Chaka Salt Lake: "like a mirror, blending sky and water."
Chaka Salt Lake is known as "one of the 50 places you must visit in your lifetime." There is no need to say much about the beauty of Chaka Salt Lake. Just come and see it for yourself!
Although we had made various estimates of the scene before coming, the first sight of Chaka Salt Lake was still quite different from our imagination. This plateau salt lake, praised as "two mountains swallow the vastness, a single emerald wipes the mirror," will be imprinted in your memory from the moment you step into it!
Transportation: From Xining, you can take the "Mirror of the Sky" special train for a day trip. Y961 departs at 08:25 and arrives at the salt lake at 12:28; Y962 departs from the salt lake at 16:30 and arrives back in Xining at 20:43. If you do a day trip, you can spend 4 hours at the salt lake. Accommodation at Chaka Salt Lake is expensive, and dining conditions are average.
Qinghai Lake, known as "West Sea" in ancient times, is the largest inland saltwater lake in China. It was renamed "Qinghai" during the Northern Wei Dynasty, and Qinghai Province is named after Qinghai Lake. Qinghai Lake is 160 kilometers from Xining, with an altitude of 3,200 meters, a circumference of 360 kilometers, and an area of 4,583 square kilometers. The beauty of Qinghai Lake is world-famous, and it has become a popular tourist destination for domestic and international visitors. Some say: "The beauty of Qinghai lies in summer. Qinghai Lake in summer is as beautiful as heaven!"
Qinghai Lake has diverse landforms. There is Haixin Mountain in the middle of the lake, from the top of which you can overlook the entire lake. To the southwest of the lake is Heima River, the best place to watch the sunrise over Qinghai Lake. To the northwest is Bird Island. Every year from April to May, more than 100,000 migratory birds such as bar-headed geese, brown-headed gulls, ruddy shelducks, cormorants, and black-necked cranes come here, making it a famous bird-watching paradise. On the north shore, Fairy Bay blends sky and water, with rare five-color grass beaches. To the northeast, Sand Island has a vast and hazy scenery, the best place to watch the sunset over Qinghai Lake. The Jinyintan Grassland is a poetic place. On the east shore, apart from grasslands, there are mostly rolling sand dunes, making you feel as if you are stepping into a boundless desert.
The main scenic area of Qinghai Lake, "Erlang Sword," is located on the south shore of Qinghai Lake, 151 kilometers from Xining's long-distance bus station, and is also called Qinghai Lake 151. Erlang Sword was our first torpedo launch test site and a research and development base for national heavy equipment. Because the terrain of Erlang Sword resembles a long sword inserted into Qinghai Lake, and due to its special geographical location, it integrates lake scenery, grasslands, beaches, islands, birds, and other ecological natural resources, making it the main tourist area of Qinghai Lake, also known as the shining pearl of Qinghai Lake.
Erlang Sword is the only 5A-level scenic area in Qinghai Lake. The admission fee is 100 yuan. The round-trip electric sightseeing car costs 20 yuan, the speedboat costs 180 yuan (to Ivory Temple on Erlang Sword Peninsula), the cruise ship costs 200 yuan (to Haixin Mountain), and other water activities range from several hundred to several thousand yuan. Many netizens complain that Erlang Sword is an expensive place, overly commercialized!
Near the Erlang Sword scenic area, along the South Ring Road of Qinghai Lake, there are many private flower fields (admission 10-30 yuan, free parking). Every July, flowers bloom here, with rapeseed flowers stretching for kilometers. There are also poppies, African daisies, lavender, highland barley, etc. Compared to the flower fields near Erlang Sword, these are larger, better protected, more diverse in species, with a stronger atmosphere for flower viewing, and fewer crowds.
Flowers rush to the eye, the lake blends sky and water. White is pure white, yellow is golden, green is emerald, purple is deep, and red is bright. Villages dot the landscape, the distant mountains are a faint blue-gray, the endless horizon and swirling clouds in the sky form a beautiful picture. In July, Qinghai Lake embraced by flowers is like a pure land on earth, a paradise away from the world. If you are dressed in colorful clothes and walk along, you will also merge into the picture!
This is the Qinghai Lake we saw in July, "beautiful beyond words." Blue sky and white clouds, gorgeous lake light, bright red, golden, green, deep purple, orange—patches of color changing and swaying. Our hearts move with the moment, we have a promise to meet. To own this moment, we traveled to Qinghai Lake in July, and we were destined not to miss it!
Probably not many people know that the east shore of Qinghai Lake is actually a vast desert! This will overturn your previous understanding of Qinghai Lake; this is a completely different scenery of Qinghai Lake! If you want to see the desert on the east shore of Qinghai Lake, there is no public bus; you can only drive yourself or charter a car.
The scenery here is stunning. It feels like you have arrived at the Taklamakan Desert. A desert road runs through it, and the endless dunes stretch as far as the eye can see.
Under the blue sky and white clouds, prayer flags flutter in the wind on the dunes. A different Qinghai Lake, a different feeling!
If there is such a thing as pure and holy, or a pure land on earth, then the scene before us is undoubtedly one of them. This is probably what people call the West Sea Jasper Pool, the heavenly wonderland of legend!
"Green fields covered with golden gauze, shaming the weaver girl's glow. Swarms come to gather honey, taking me for a blooming bough." At this time, the rapeseed flowers in Menyuan, like a golden sea, are blooming vigorously, full of passion! In July, Menyuan's rapeseed flowers in Qinghai are like a golden ocean at the foot of the Qilian Mountains!
There are several flower-viewing spots in Menyuan. Among them, Yuanshan Observation Deck (offers a panoramic view of the flower sea and sunrise/sunset; convenient transportation, suitable for all ages); Zhaobi Mountain Observation Deck (nearby can see mountain flowers, far away can see flower fields and mountains and rivers, but it is more than 30 kilometers from Menyuan County, inconvenient transportation); Daban Mountain Observation Deck (can overlook distant flower fields and snowy mountains, but parking is inconvenient, and local villagers may overcharge). Therefore, Yuanshan Observation Deck is the first choice!
Yuanshan Observation Deck is located 4 kilometers northeast of Qingshizui Town, Menyuan. Admission is 60 yuan. The distance from the ticket office to the flower-viewing avenue and Provincial Highway 301 intersection is 1.5 kilometers. You can take an electric sightseeing car, one-way 15 yuan, round-trip 20 yuan. From Menyuan Railway Station to Yuanshan Observation Deck, there is no regular public bus (there is a 9-seat farm passenger minibus, boarding 5 yuan, but very few trips). A taxi one-way costs no less than 50 yuan.
Yuanshan Observation Deck offers an excellent view. Standing here and looking down, rapeseed flowers surround you, extending from your feet to the distance. Before you, the Lenglongling, Daban Mountain, and Gangshika Mountain stand tall. The distant mountains are a faint blue-gray, with traces of snow on the peaks. Villages and trees dot the mountainside, roads and ridges form winding curves. Clouds swirl on the mountains and below. The greenish-yellow rapeseed flowers stretch endlessly in the Haomen River valley. The skyline and clouds, flower fields and mountains, villages and wilderness, people in colorful clothes... all form a beautiful picture at the foot of the Qilian Mountains.
July's Menyuan rapeseed flowers are a joint masterpiece of man and nature. This scenery is unique to Menyuan. One glance, and you will never forget it for a lifetime! Transportation to Menyuan: Take the high-speed rail from Xining; it takes 40 minutes to reach Menyuan Railway Station. Then take a bus or taxi to Qingshizui Town, Menyuan. It's very convenient! If you want to come to Menyuan, choose mid-July each year, when the rapeseed flowers are at their most dazzling. By the end of July, the rapeseed flowers turn into rapeseed!
Yuanyang (Mandarin Duck) Flower Sea is located 36 kilometers west of Menyuan County. It reflects the famous Gangshika Snow Peak, like a mirror set in the Menyuan platform. Yuanyang Flower Sea is also a rare waterfowl nature reserve. Every spring and summer, nearly a hundred Tibetan mandarin ducks come here to breed. It is also called the "Love Bird Lake of the Qilian Mountains." It is called Luan Haizi (Chaotic Lake) because "the chaotic flowers gradually bewitch the eyes."
Yuanyang Flower Sea is also a good place to view the Gangshika Snow Mountain. The scenery here is pure, blue, and holy. Water brings vitality: the Gangshika Snow Mountain, blue sky, and white clouds are reflected in the clear lake water! This greatly enhances the layering and beauty of this plateau lake, surpassing our previous imagination!
"The sea mirror waves roll flowers, wiping away the dust and sand. The east wind blows the green shadows in uneven rows. Envying the mandarin ducks in pairs, they make this place their home. Flowing water marks the years, joy and sorrow intertwine. Drifting with the wind is life. The storms outside don't matter, who is like them?" This is the earliest depiction of Yuanyang Flower Sea by the poet Liao Su in late Qing Dynasty, recorded in the "New Annals of Xining Prefecture." This is also a great place to watch the sunset over the Qilian Mountains! There is no public bus to Yuanyang Flower Sea; you can only charter a car. Admission to Menyuan Yuanyang Flower Sea is 40 yuan.
Under the blue sky and white clouds, the Qilian Mountain grassland in July presents a pastoral idyll of harmony between man and nature. It unfolds like a painting: distant mountains layer upon layer, the wilderness is emerald green and vast, cattle and sheep dot the landscape. Walking in such a poetic place is a rare life experience and fate!
When you are on the Qilian Mountain grassland, you can truly understand what five colors and blooming mountain flowers mean! The endless grassland, the flowers rushing to the eye, under the blue sky and white clouds, the Qilian Mountain grassland is as beautiful as a poem; time freezes here. Enjoy the grassland cuisine, bathe in the flower sea, and let time slip away quietly!
Transportation: The Qilian Mountain grassland is vast and boundless, and there is no admission fee. If you want to come, you must drive yourself or charter a car!
Deep in the Qilian Mountains on the border of Qinghai and Gansu, there is a place called "Heavenly Realm Qilian," which is the famous Zhuor Mountain in Qilian. It presents a red sandstone Danxia landform, with large areas of spruce growing on the mountain. The landscape has a Nordic style and is also called the Little Switzerland of the East and the Alps of China. Zhuor Mountain's scenery changes endlessly throughout the year, like natural paintings. Therefore, it is known as "Heavenly Realm Qilian"!
Zhuor Mountain admission is 60 yuan + scenic area shuttle bus 40 yuan. Take the bus from the entrance for about 20 minutes to the Tianjing Square on the mountainside. From there, you can only climb along the wooden boardwalk to the beacon tower at the summit, about 1.5 kilometers. Although it is a bit strenuous, the scenery along the way is infinite, so you won't feel too tired!
Look, isn't Heavenly Realm Qilian like an oil painting?
If you choose to stay in Ladongtai Village at the foot of Zhuor Mountain, you can easily watch the sunset glow in the evening, the stars at night, and the sunrise in the morning! Moreover, there is no admission fee! If you want to come here to see the "heavenly realm," you must drive yourself or charter a car!
In early July, Ulanbutong in Inner Mongolia is what people often call Bashang Grassland. Summer there is a paradise on earth! There is no heat, no noise, only flowers and poetry! Go there and take a look, and I don't need to say more!
Transportation: To come to Ulanbutong, it is best to take a train or plane to Chifeng City in Inner Mongolia, rent a car, and drive along Inner Mongolia Provincial Highway 306 and Provincial Highway 204. The scenery along the way is infinite! Moreover, there are no tolls, the roads are good, and there are few cars. You can stop and enjoy the scenery anytime! In simple terms, there are no traffic police on the road, so driving is just a "pleasure"!
Ulanbutong belongs to Hexigten in Inner Mongolia, and Saihanba belongs to Chengde in Hebei. The scenic area gates are 600 meters apart, with the free Luanhe River Source in between. Someone joked that entry and exit each cost 250 yuan, quite expensive! In August 2018, the two scenic areas reached an agreement: if you enter Ulanbutong from Yudaokou (must pass through within 1 hour and hold a time-limited certificate issued by the scenic area), Saihanba does not charge an admission fee. Similarly, the same rule applies from Ulanbutong to Saihanba. This is undoubtedly good news for self-driving travelers!
At the Colorful Mountain intersection in Ulanbutong, there is a famous film and television base. More than ten big movies, including "The Emperor Wu of Han," "My Fair Princess," and "The Kangxi Emperor," were filmed here. The grassland scenery here is so captivating that most people linger and forget to return!
Ulanbutong Baihua Slope (Hundred Flowers Slope) is a typical grassland with sparse trees and abundant flowers, not only found in Africa!
The Baigou Scenic Area in Ulanbutong is incredibly beautiful, "just too, too much"!
Sunset and sunrise in Ulanbutong are both very beautiful!
Ulanbutong General Paozi (General's Bubble) and Wild Duck Lake not only have beautiful scenery but are also great places for horse riding!
This is the Huamugou Forest Park in Hexigten. It does not belong to the Ulanbutong scenic area and charges a separate admission of 30 yuan per person. It is known as a photographer's paradise, with the famous Hamaba (Toad Dam) and Line Hills. In summer, rapeseed flowers cover the mountains. In autumn, golden birch trees are scattered in patches or dots among the mountains and water, making every step a new scene!
Before us is the famous Hamagou (Toad Gully), named because the peninsula in the water resembles a toad!
Watching morning mist from Hongshan (Red Mountain) in Ulanbutong is incredibly beautiful! You might only need to see it once in your lifetime!
Watching sunset at the Baicao Obo (Hundred Grass Cairn) in Ulanbutong, people first circle the cairn in worship. Respecting ethnic traditions and revering the grassland is a lesson for tourists arriving in Ulanbutong. If you come, don't miss it!
In Ulanbutong, larger hotels generally have bonfire performances by the local cultural troupe in the evening. Near the end of the performance, the performers will hold hands with tourists and dance around the bonfire. The atmosphere is quite warm! Grassland people are naturally good at singing and dancing. Not only do they sing well and play the horse-head fiddle well, but also their moves—look at the girls and boys, their every move is extraordinary!
This is Ulanbutong Town, formerly the Hongshan Military Horse Farm of the Beijing Military Region. The accommodation and dining conditions here are very good. In July, hotels priced around 100 yuan include a rich breakfast! Are you excited after seeing the photos of Ulanbutong? Excited and want to come? Ulanbutong is huge. If you want to come, drive your own car and bring your family. Each person buys a ticket for 120 yuan, stay in Ulanbutong for a week, and savor its beauty and cuisine. Maybe once you come, you won't want to leave!
In Hexigten, Inner Mongolia, there is a lake called Dalinuo'er, known as the famous Dali Lake, praised as "a lake like the sea." It is one of the four famous lakes in Inner Mongolia. Under the light of the sky, its water is silvery and sparkling, also called the Silver Beach Lake. Dali Lake admission is 80 yuan, and taking the shuttle bus to its Mantuo Mountain to watch windmills and overlook Dali Lake costs 30 yuan.
In the evening, standing on the Mantuo Mountain by the lake to overlook Dali Lake, the sky and water merge into one. The lake water is dyed silvery and sparkling by the sunset, a truly stunning scene!
At night, beautiful fireworks begin. If you stay overnight at the Dalahanwula Town near Dali Lake and participate in the bonfire party, it is a very good choice!
The bonfire party here is for tourists' self-entertainment; dancing or not, however you dance, it's up to you! The silver Dali Lake scenery, the warm bonfire party, and the strong ethnic customs are definitely an unforgettable trip. Transportation: There is no public bus to Dali Lake; only self-driving or chartering!
Soon after driving north from Dali Lake, you enter the Gongger Grassland in Xilingol, Inner Mongolia. There is no admission fee, and the scenery is very charming!
Visiting Gongger Grassland is usually just a stop on a self-driving trip, but you can't miss it!
In eastern Inner Mongolia, there is a place called Yunshan Sandy Land. It commemorates the early forestry workers who protected and cultivated the unique sandy spruce of the Greater Khingan Mountains on this already desertified land. Through decades of hard work, it has now turned into an oasis, creating a model in the forestry history of northern China. Its scenery gives a very, very peaceful beauty!
Yunshan Sandy Land admission is 40 yuan, scenic area shuttle bus is 20 yuan, and the tour takes about 2 hours.
So, isn't the scenery of Yunshan Sandy Land quite good? If you are driving by, come and take a look; it is definitely worth the price!
After passing Yunshan Sandy Land and heading north, you enter the Huanggangliang area. This is a typical savanna landscape of the Greater Khingan Mountains. In midsummer, Huanggangliang has blue sky and white clouds, birds flying high, a refreshing climate, quiet grassland, and fragrant flowers! Moreover, there is no admission fee. People just park their cars by the roadside and walk into the flowers to enjoy and pick them!
Sitting on the grassland in full bloom can be called a "fragrant flower bath of the Greater Khingan Mountains"!
In Huanggangliang, your previous understanding of the Greater Khingan Mountains will be overturned. In fact, the Greater Khingan Mountains are not a continuous chain of mountains, but a huge, long double-sloped terrain. The southern slope is in Inner Mongolia, China, and the northern slope is in Heilongjiang, China, connected to Russia. Huanggangliang is the highest point of the Greater Khingan Mountains, at 2,029 meters above sea level. Perhaps not many people know that the highest peak of the Greater Khingan Mountains is actually a vast grassland covered with flowers!
In Chifeng, Inner Mongolia, there is a place called Ashatu, also known as "Stonehenge." It is located in the western grassland of the Greater Khingan Mountains, presenting typical stone forest landform features. Geological research shows that the Ashatu stone forest was mainly formed by glacier melting and erosion, also called "Glacier Stone Forest." Ashatu scenic area admission is 120 yuan (including shuttle bus 40 yuan). The stone forest scenic area is very large, consisting of four major parts, and the tour takes at least a full day. Our time was limited; we spent 3 hours on a cursory tour and only saw part of two areas!
To come to Ashatu, there is no public bus; only self-driving or chartered bus!
Roc spreading its wings, the symbol of Ashatu.
Grassland lion, a representative work of Ashatu stone array.
The service of Ashatu Stone Forest is excellent! The food is hygienic and tasty, and the transportation is comfortable and convenient. It is worth praising! But it is too far from home. It is not easy to come here; you need to be determined!
In the Ongniud Banner of Chifeng, Inner Mongolia, there is a vast desert that combines strange rocks, peaks, wetlands, grasslands, and lakes. There are springs in the desert that accumulate into lakes, forming a peculiar landscape of sand with lakes, lakes with islands, islands with grass, and grass with birds. In 1971, because the world-famous "China's First Dragon" (a jade pig dragon) was unearthed here, this beautiful desert was named Yulong Sand Lake. Yulong Sand Lake scenic area admission is 80 yuan per person. Various tour activities are available in the scenic area, with prices ranging from 20 yuan to several hundred.
There are container-style hotels in Yulong Sand Lake scenic area for accommodation, costing about 1,000 yuan per night, which is not affordable for ordinary people! There are fast food options inside and outside the scenic area. The weather in the desert at noon is very hot; we rested until 4:00 p.m. before starting our tour. By then, the desert climate was pleasant!
The scenery of Yulong Sand Lake is obvious, and there is no need to say more. Come and see how beautiful it is! There is no public bus here; you can only take a taxi from Ongniud Banner (30 kilometers) for about 30 yuan per person.
August in the Jiangnan region is humid and unbearable, but at this time, the Changbai Mountains in the northeast are cool and offer beautiful scenery. Of course, the main peak of the Changbai Mountains, Tianchi Lake, has become a good choice for summer outings! The long line of tourists, winding 1,500 meters to the summit of Tianchi Lake, is spectacular. Look, you can see how many tourists come to see Changbai Mountain Tianchi!
Probably because the summer climate of Changbai Mountain is pleasant, people have a special affection for Tianchi. Every summer, tour groups, self-driving tourists, independent travelers, and family tourists converge on Erdaobaihe Town at the foot of Changbai Mountain. Changbai Mountain Tianchi has developed not only the North Slope and West Slope scenic areas but now also the South Slope scenic area has opened, yet tickets are still hard to come by. The scenic area has to implement a flow restriction system. People cannot buy tickets at the ticket office; we queued online until 2:00 p.m. to get tickets. The transportation cost to Tianchi is not cheap: from Erdaobaihe to the North Slope gate is 36 yuan + from the gate to Tianchi visitor center is 85 yuan + from the visitor center to Tianchi boardwalk is 80 yuan, making a total of 201 yuan per person for transportation. It is said that Changbai Mountain Tianchi is an expensive place for tourists!
I had heard before that Changbai Mountain Tianchi is a place where you regret not coming, and regret coming after you arrive. But we still felt it was worth it!
The huge rocks piled up on the shore of Tianchi are the lava accumulated from volcanic eruptions. Due to the volcanic ash conditions, nothing grows around Changbai Mountain Tianchi. Its geological features are completely different from Tianshan Tianchi (we have visited Tianshan Tianchi; it is a small oasis in the Tianshan Valley). The scenery here feels more primitive and desolate than Tianshan Tianchi, giving a sense of timelessness.
In summer, Changbai Mountain Tianchi alternates between sunny and rainy, and you can experience spring, summer, autumn, and winter in a single day. There are two different worlds above and below the mountain. At the foot of the mountain, people wear short-sleeved T-shirts, but at the top, you have to wear a down jacket, or you will shiver from the cold!
In summer, Erdaobaihe Town has opened a tourist bus special line (from July 10 to October 10 every year). For 1 yuan per person, you can go from one scenic spot to another. It is very convenient, and the drivers are very enthusiastic. Even buses stop for tourists who wave. Moreover, all scenic spots are free. The town's surroundings are beautiful, the weather is cool, and dining conditions are good, so sightseeing is very enjoyable! We spent an afternoon at the Changbai Mountain Wetland Flower Sea Park on the outskirts of the town, and the feeling is still lingering!
Beautiful Erdaobaihe Town at the foot of Changbai Mountain. Most tourists visiting Changbai Mountain choose to stay here or transit. In summer, Erdaobaihe is crowded with tourists, and hotels of all sizes are almost fully booked. It is 34 kilometers from Changbai Mountain Tianchi, with a special shuttle bus to Tianchi. Known as "The First Town at the Foot of Changbai Mountain" and "The Hometown of the Beauty Pine," it is a famous tourist destination with "sacred mountains, holy water, strange forests, and immortal fruits." It is very convenient to come here: take a train from Shenyang or Changchun, sleep on the train overnight, and arrive at Erdaobaihe Town the next morning!
Harbin's old Harbin Station is a beautiful railway station with a long history, a calling card of Harbin. We chose accommodation here for three reasons: first, the accommodation prices here are relatively cheap; second, the bus lines here are dense, reaching all major attractions in Harbin (Central Street, Saint Sophia Cathedral, Songhua River, Sun Island, Ice and Snow World, etc.); third, it is close to the old city, with many dining options and affordable prices.
Needless to say, everyone knows that Harbin's summer is a beautiful and pleasant destination.
Walking north along Central Street to the end, you reach the Flood Control Monument Square on the Songhua River.
In summer, tourists flock to Harbin. In the evening, Central Street is brightly lit, full of exotic charm. The Flood Control Monument Square gathers a large number of citizens and tourists. The Songhua River glistens with ripples, picturesque. People spontaneously sing, dance, play music, and enjoy the cool evening breeze along the Songhua River and the beautiful river city night.
Harbin's summer is unique. Some say it is like a boat drifting on the beautiful Songhua River, laden with colors and scenery, docking here, adding unique charm to this deep black soil! Charming Harbin summer, charming Harbin night! If you want to come to Harbin, transportation is very convenient. You can arrive by plane, train, or high-speed rail. But Harbin has five railway stations, so don't get off at the wrong place! There are multiple subway lines in Harbin; bus lines are dense, and a ride costs only 1 yuan. Once you come, you will know how convenient it is!
Transportation to Zhalong Wetland in Qiqihar to see red-crowned cranes: Take a train or bullet train from Harbin, arrive in Qiqihar in less than two hours, then take bus 306 special line from the station square (one bus every half hour, round trip 20 yuan per person) to reach the famous Zhalong Red-crowned Crane Nature Reserve to see the cranes! As long as you are in Northeast China, coming to Zhalong is that convenient!
Zhalong Wetland Reserve is 30 kilometers from Qiqihar Railway Station, about a 40-minute drive. Zhalong Wetland admission is 60 yuan (including scenic area shuttle bus). The reserve holds several crane release performances every day (no extra charge). On the way to the crane release area, there are large lotus ponds and flower fields, also very beautiful!
Zhalong Red-crowned Crane Nature Reserve is very large. After decades of artificial breeding, it has become a true second hometown for red-crowned cranes. As soon as we entered the reserve, we encountered several female cranes with their young foraging leisurely among the reeds, not at all avoiding people.
The reserve holds three crane release performances daily, each about an hour. Every day, a large number of tourists come to watch. Braving the scorching heat, we watched two consecutive performances, which was very satisfying! But there was no shade in the reserve at noon, and it was really hot. To cool down, we also ate "Madyer" (a brand of popsicle). However, the heat here is refreshingly hot, different from the humid heat in the south!
Erguna is a beautiful place deep in the Greater Khingan Mountains, with many famous attractions, and it is also a popular summer travel destination. Transportation: Take a train to Hailar in Inner Mongolia, then take a bus from Hailar Bus Station to Erguna City. After that, you can take a bus or taxi to wherever you want to go. Transportation is quite convenient!
Our first stop was the largest wetland park in Asia—the Greater Khingan Mountains Wetland Park. Take a special shuttle bus from Erguna, round trip 20 yuan, admission 60 yuan. From there, you can enjoy "the land so rich in beauty"!
To catch the most beautiful sunset in the Greater Khingan Mountains at Heishantou that evening, we started climbing frantically as soon as we entered the wetland park, taking about an hour to reach the highest observation deck. We thought the best scenery would be at the top, but after climbing, we realized that the most photogenic season for the wetland park is golden autumn (when beech trees turn red all over the mountains and birch forests turn golden) and winter for snow views. We hadn't done our homework!
After returning from the wetland park to the bus station, we took a long-distance bus for 18 yuan per person to Heishantou Town in the Greater Khingan Mountains, found accommodation, and then walked to Heishantou to watch the sunset. The place was already filled with long lenses and tripods; everyone was looking forward to the moment of sunset. The weather was good today, so the sunset should be fine!
At this moment, standing on Heishantou and looking into the distance, not far ahead (in the direction of the Erguna River) is the famous "Qi Ka, Ba Ka" (the only remaining section of the border demarcated by the Treaty of Nerchinsk between China and Russia). In 1689, the Chinese and Russian armies confronted each other here for 8 months and negotiated for 11 months, eventually signing the first international treaty between the two countries, the "Treaty of Nerchinsk."
Now, apart from "Qi Ka" and "Ba Ka," other border outposts have long disappeared into Mongolia or Russia. The vast Qing Dynasty territories from the Outer Khingan Mountains to Sakhalin Island, as demarcated by the Treaty of Nerchinsk, had already become foreign lands through unequal treaties such as the "Treaty of Aigun" and the "Treaty of Peking" between China and Russia. Backwardness not only invites beating but also the ceding of territory and payment of indemnities! This is the law of the jungle in the international community. This is also the deep memory left by Heishantou!
Early in the morning, watching the sunrise from Heishantou. The magnificent sunrise over the Greater Khingan Mountains is a rare sight!
"The land so rich in beauty has made countless heroes bow in homage." With this moment, what else is not worthwhile?
At the place where we watched the sunrise, a group of "heavenly horses" passed leisurely by us. At that time, the vast Hulunbuir Grassland had only two people and a group of horses; even the horse herder was nowhere to be seen!
Erguna has many attractions, but we had limited time and only chose the Wetland Park and Heishantou. If you want to come here, it is best to rent a car and drive yourself, so you can spend the least and enjoy the most!
The train goes to Manzhouli, beyond which is Russia! Transportation in Manzhouli is very convenient, so no introduction is needed. Summer in Manzhouli is a pleasant place with a nice climate! Not only is it full of exotic charm, but it is also incredibly beautiful!
People who come to Manzhouli will visit the national gate. Take bus No. 6 from Manzhouli Railway Station, 1 yuan, and get off at the Guomen Station.
If Harbin is said to be full of Russian flavor, then Manzhouli is like Russia itself. This is not an exaggeration. Everywhere you look, there are Russian-style buildings: Russian circus, Russian white birch song and dance, Russian bread, Russian sausages, Russian vodka, Russian matryoshka dolls, Russian leather goods, knives, etc. Even on the streets, you can see portly Russians and beautiful Russian women walking around! If you don't believe me, come and see.
The famous Manzhouli Matryoshka Square, originally a free public square. Now, just to take a look costs 80 yuan, and watching a circus show costs up to 230 yuan. Forget it, we'll just take a distant view! This is a corner of the Matryoshka Square we saw through the door crack.
The famous Manzhouli Mammoth Park, the only place in China where mammoth fossils have been unearthed. In front is the Mammoth Park Museum. It was not open on the day we arrived.
It is said that Beidaihe in summer is a great place to escape the heat. If you are returning south from the northeast, staying in Beidaihe for a few days to enjoy the Bohai Bay scenery and a bit of summer coolness is a good choice! Transportation: Beidaihe has convenient connections by plane, train, and high-speed rail! City buses in Beidaihe are incredibly cheap—1 yuan can take you tens of kilometers! Accommodation and dining in Beidaihe are also affordable and good!
This is where Chairman Mao often watched the sunrise. A red sun rises from the sea, waves crash on the shore, people are in the picture, and the sea is dyed red. Here, we witnessed a truly meaningful sunrise over the sea. If you come to Beidaihe, the Beidaihe sunrise will surely be waiting for you here!
Beidaihe has many attractions, but they take time to visit. We spent three days here and only saw a small part of Beidaihe!
"East of the Jieshi Stone, I come to view the boundless ocean. The autumn wind blows drear and bleak; the monstrous billows surge up high. An old war-horse may be stabled, but still it longs to gallop a thousand li." Back then, Cao Cao, after his northern expedition to Liaoxi and defeating the Wuhuan, passed by the Jieshi Stone (now sunk into the sea) on his return. Facing the surging Bohai Sea, he expressed his famous "Viewing the Blue Sea," which has been recited through the ages.
"Rain falls on the land of Yan, white waves leap to the sky. No fishing boats off Qinhuangdao are in sight, / Nor are they seen on the boundless main. / Where have they gone?" Back then, Mao Zedong's well-known poem "Beidaihe - Tune: 'Waves Washing Sand'" also came from this place.
This is the beauty of our great motherland's mountains and rivers. Her summer is so brilliant and so pleasant. As long as you have a heart to go out, the distance will no longer be far, summer will not be humid and unbearable, and what you see and hear will become so wonderful!
End of this chapter / To be continued. Jinling Lesou, 2020/10/07
Travelogue Directory: 1. [Where to go in summer] 2. [Xining, Summer Capital] 3. [Guide: Virtue is precious] 4. [Colorful Danxia] 5. [Mirror of the Sky] 6. [Qinghai Lake] 7. [Desert on the East Shore] 8. [Golden Menyuan] 9. [Mandarin Duck Flower Sea] 10. [Qilian Grassland] 11. [Heavenly Realm Qilian] 12. [Ulanbutong] 13. [Dalinuo'er] 14. [Gongger Grassland] 15. [Sandy Spruce] 16. [Huanggangliang Mountain Flowers] 17. [Ashatu] 18. [Yulong Sand Lake] 19. [Changbai Mountain Tianchi] 20. [Songhua River] 21. [Zhalong Wetland] 22. [Erguna] 23. [Manzhouli] 24. [Beidaihe]
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