Traveling Through Northeast China with a Mask: Harbin - Xuegu - Xuexiang - Changbai Mountain, A Strong Photo Tour

Starting from the Spring Festival of 2020, the pandemic swept the global village. Now as 2021 is just around the corner, looking at the northern scenery during the travel season, I have countless yearnings for the snow beyond the Great Wall. This year the timing was just right, the scenery was perfect, and so a seemingly natural trip unfolded. The trip itinerary was finalized a week in advance, drawing on the experiences of many pioneers and referencing countless guides, aiming to capture all the beauty of the northern frontier! This travelogue strives to be detailed and thorough, serving as a reference for future companions. Hoping and hoping, the cold of winter draws near. As the scenery outside the window changes from dark green to deep brown to snowy white, I know we are getting closer to winter. We landed smoothly at Harbin Taiping International Airport. Upon opening the hatch, cold air greeted us warmly. The runways at Harbin Airport did not have thick snow on either side; perhaps hardworking staff had cleared it away, but that did not dampen our curiosity about the winter we had been longing for. At 9 a.m., it was the peak traffic jam time in Harbin. The airport bus crawled slowly through the streets of Harbin. We asked the driver how long it would take to reach Central Street. The driver said, "The road is bad; if it takes an hour to walk, now it will probably take two hours." We asked in panic, "How can it take that long?" Unexpectedly, the driver burst out laughing, showing the characteristic humor of northerners: "I was just making a comparison. Didn't you hear me say '估么'? '估么' means maybe, perhaps, roughly. In other words, a bit over an hour is also called two hours." Central Street should be the most bustling area of Harbin. Not only is it a must-visit for Chinese and foreign tourists, but locals also often come here for shopping and strolling. Compared to commercial pedestrian streets in other cities, the architecture here is unique with a Russian style, and the night scenery here is unmatched anywhere. For convenience, we booked a hotel near Sophia Church. After lunch and checking in, we headed to Central Street for a leisurely stroll. Lunch was at the Zui Dongbei Folk Custom Restaurant. The portions in northeastern restaurants are definitely satisfying—simply generous. At the end of Central Street stands the Flood Control Memorial Tower. The great flood of the 1990s did not defeat this city but instead united the brave people of Harbin even more. Today, the Flood Control Memorial Tower is not just a monument; it has become a symbol of Harbin, an iconic building of the Ice City, standing by the Songhua River like a mystical pillar, firmly guarding this resilient and beautiful city. Night falls early in Harbin. Around 3 p.m., the sun begins to slant westward; by 4 p.m., it starts to get dark; and before 5 p.m., you can already enjoy the Ice City under the night sky. Under the night sky, Central Street is crowded with people, shops and streets are lit with beautiful neon lights, and the cobblestone road underfoot, I learned, was laid a hundred years ago. Most of the buildings have been rebuilt or renovated on their original sites. At this time, many artists on Central Street are still constructing ice sculptures for tourists to enjoy. The Ice and Snow World opens in mid-to-late December, and we just caught the beginning. The direct bus from Central Street to the Ice and Snow World made it convenient for us. The Ice and Snow World is a magical place, like the dreamy castle in Frozen, embedded with brilliant neon lights. The most fun are still the various amusement facilities. Although they are free, the queues are unbearable. It was extremely cold here, but fortunately, we had done our homework and covered ourselves with heat packs. There was hot water in the rest area and ticket office, which was quite thoughtful. In the northeast, hot water is the source of life. Travel tips: In the Ice and Snow World, don't covet the free attractions; note that in Xuegu or Changbai Mountain, there are many amusement facilities at reasonable prices without long lines. The art of ice is taken to the extreme in Harbin. We returned to Central Street and had dinner at a Russian restaurant. Walking along Central Street to Saint Sophia Cathedral takes about 20 minutes. The cathedral at night, with its lights, appears even more majestic and sacred. This world-renowned cathedral is also a highlight of Harbin tourism. Regarding photographing the cathedral: There are countless angles to choose from. Looking around the cathedral, you'll find that each side and each face has its own beauty. During the day, white pigeons circle around, and some people even climb to nearby commercial buildings to take top-down shots. At Sophia Cathedral, we saw many works by professional photographers, all with strong expressiveness. It is important to note that the night wind in Harbin is very cold, biting the face. Besides keeping ourselves warm, we must not forget to keep our electronic devices warm; otherwise, we can only wait for them to warm up on their own before using them. The next day, we set off for Xuegu Scenic Area in Wuchang City. In the afternoon, we received a call from the driver, confirming the meeting point on Shangzhi Avenue and the car at 6 a.m. At 6 a.m., the thought of it was terrible for us who are used to sleeping in. We took some time to check the location and found it was just on the next street. By the time we returned to the hotel, it was already past nine o'clock at night. After a comfortable hot bath, we plunged into the gentle embrace of the northern country. Goodnight, Harbin. Entertainment time in Xuegu. At 5:30 a.m., after a simple breakfast, we rushed to the meeting point. It's worth noting that there is also a bus to Xuegu at 12 p.m. from Harbin. If you plan to stay in Xuegu for two days, it's strongly recommended to take the noon bus; otherwise, catching the 6 a.m. bus requires some courage. At exactly 6 a.m., we boarded the bus and headed towards Wuchang. Both sides of the road were covered with snow, revealing a land of fish and rice beneath. In this winter season, everything was desolate and quiet. "From hill to hill no bird in flight, from path to path no man in sight." Not at all. The sparrows in the northeast are plump and round; they never seem to stop foraging. And "from path to path no man in sight" is nonsense—buses and cars come and go in an endless stream. The northern winter is never lonely. As soon as we left the Ice City, we could see the roadside trees covered with rime, presenting a charming northern landscape one after another. We southerners, easily amazed, kept sighing and marveling. Around noon, the sun emerged from the clouds, shining on the earth. The white snow reflected the sunlight, sparkling brilliantly—dazzling white, pure white, intoxicating white. Arriving at Dongsheng Forestry Center Xuegu, we got off right at the inn. I must say, Manager Cui of Xuegu made perfect arrangements. As soon as we stepped out, we looked up and saw a plaque: "Red beans grow in the south, this thing is most longing." This should be the meaning of the Xiangsi Xuegu Inn. After checking into the folk house, since it was still early, we dropped our luggage and quickly ordered lunch, then immediately went out to admire and play in the snow, as if racing against time. According to plan, after lunch we would head to the amusement park to enjoy snow activities to the fullest. In the alleys of Xuegu, there are many primitive adobe houses, with long icicles under the eaves, thick snow on the roofs, and wooden fences in front. We stepped into snow several inches deep, which crunched underfoot, and our legs sank halfway into it. Big red lanterns hung high, and under the eaves, next to the gate, corn cobs accompanied the lanterns, adding a festive and harvest joy to the pure snowfield—beautifully balanced. Lunch at the inn was chicken stewed with mushrooms, and we ate heartily. Wuchang rice, famous nationwide, was soft, sticky, and chewy, with a pleasant fragrance. Paired with northeastern spirits (xiaoshao), eating large pieces of meat and drinking big gulps—I don't need to say it's satisfying; you can feel it. After lunch, everyone hurried to the ski amusement park. The beginner ski slope also had a natural ice surface. We played spinning tops on ice, rode ice carts, and had a blast. Shovels became sleds, and we had endless fun. There were all kinds of antics and joy, expressing various kinds of happiness. For me, who had never skied before, I fell many times, but I enjoyed it immensely. When I overcame my fear and gathered my courage, I finally managed to ski steadily down the slope. When we got tired, we strolled along Xuegu's small street and had a stick of candied hawthorn, sweet and sour, like celebrating the New Year. The giant landmark of China Xuegu was very imposing, attracting tourists to take photos. Soon it was completely dark. We returned to the inn and made dumplings with the owner's family. Rolling the dough by hand and wrapping the dumplings ourselves seemed to make them taste even better. In the evening, passing by Xuegu Square, a large bonfire party had just started. About a thousand people were dancing passionately around the bonfire, and the music was deafening. For a moment, I felt my blood surge and unconsciously started dancing along with everyone. Northeast Yangko dance has a special charm that draws people in and never rejects anyone. Day 3: Hiking Across Yangcao Mountain to Xuexiang. Today was the most exciting day—the only full-day hike of the itinerary. From Dongsheng Forestry Center Xuegu, we crossed Yangcao Mountain and reached Shuangfeng Forestry Center Xuexiang National Forest Park. Early in the morning, we had a typical northeastern breakfast at Xiangsi Inn: porridge, pickled vegetables, steamed buns, and boiled eggs. Dressed warmly, we set off immediately. We had booked a horse-drawn sled the night before. Riding the sled saved us from walking five kilometers of flat road. The horse-drawn sled, an experience we might not get many chances for, allowed us to start climbing directly from the foot of the mountain, ahead of others. Following the tracks of the horse-drawn sled, the scenery grew more beautiful. White birch trees stood gracefully like noble swans. Tall broadleaf trees stood shoulder to shoulder, straight and pointing to the blue sky. Alongside the birches stood the upright larch trees, tall and solemn. There were also magnificent pine-birch landscapes, filling the vast forest neatly. Once we started hiking, we paused frequently, sweating slightly, neither hot nor cold—very comfortable. Icefalls were everywhere, as were unfrozen springs. Yangcao Mountain: one mountain dividing two cities—Wuchang City and Mudanjiang City. The watershed at the top of Yangcao Mountain separates Xuexiang on the sunny side and Xuegu on the shady side. Starting from Xuegu, the route to the summit is ten kilometers: five kilometers of flat road and five kilometers of mountain road. Starting from Xuexiang, it's basically five kilometers of mountain road. The summit of Yangcao Mountain is flat. Thanks to the meeting of the warm wind from Hokkaido and the cold current from Siberia, there is heavy snowfall, with snow accumulation often over one meter. This area is known for "powder snow." Below our feet was the forest and snowfield, above our heads the azure sky, and the warm sun shone overhead. During the climb, sunlight filtered through the dense forest, casting golden beams of light. The thick snow was spotless. For snow lovers, it was a perfect opportunity to run wild, play recklessly, do 360-degree rolls in the snow, and let snowball fight and snowman enthusiasts show off their skills. We walked and rested, arriving at Xuexiang only at 1 p.m., already feeling like early evening—the sky shouldn't darken so early. Everywhere in Xuexiang there were snow mushrooms, incredibly beautiful. We decided to take a short rest and wait for nightfall to see the dreamy Xuexiang under neon lights. After a day of hard work, a sumptuous dinner was in order: authentic Xuexiang farmhouse dishes and real northeastern spirits. Slightly tipsy, we grabbed our cameras and chased the lights. Everywhere was dazzling, a fairy tale world of dreams. It felt like Snow White and the seven dwarfs might come out to greet us at any moment—as if we were in a Grimm's world. Xuexiang was bustling with tourists, the main street brilliantly lit, noisy with people, and heavy with traffic, reminiscent of the Bund in Shanghai—prosperous and lively. Carrying our tripods, we tried to capture the beautiful Xuexiang night scenes. Big red lanterns and fiery red lights dazzled tourists' cameras. From the fairy tale world, we ascended the boardwalk to overlook the Dreamy Home. It was truly a fairy tale world. Despite the cold, my mind kept wandering—Snow White, the dwarfs, and the wolf grandma kept flashing through my mind. Let me talk about the cold in Heilongjiang, including Xuegu and Xuexiang. It's a straightforward cold, unlike the biting cold of the south. The initial sensation isn't too uncomfortable; coming out of a dry, heated room can even feel like a refreshing coolness. But if you stay outside for a long time, you can freeze solid, chilled to the bone. After wandering around the streets like that, we were pretty much frozen through. However, as long as you dress warmly, the cold air quickly dissipates. Day 4: Xuexiang - Erdaobaihe, Changbai Mountain. Waking up, we realized that heavy snow had fallen all night, or so it seemed. After breakfast, we boarded our pre-booked car and set off for Erdaobaihe. The snow in Xuexiang is uniquely magnificent—some say it has a "conqueror's aura." Although we heard it wasn't heavy snow, the large snowflakes we saw were breathtaking. For tourists, seeing snow in Xuexiang really made the trip worthwhile. Erdaobaihe is a beautiful tourist town with a wide variety of food; even crayfish is not a rarity. We checked into the Dongwo Hotel, freshened up, and went out to find food. Because the drive from Xuexiang to Changbai Mountain takes a full day, we arrived at Erdaobaihe in the early evening. Outside the hotel, the Baishui River, mixed with hot spring water from Changbai Mountain, flowed noisily, emitting slight steam. Across the river was a tourist park. Both sides of the river were brightly lit. We walked along the river, upstream, passed a square, found a side street, and pushed open the door of a dumpling restaurant. We ordered a plate of suanchai (sauerkraut) and pork dumplings, only to find the room filled with locals drinking and reminiscing, saying "dumplings with liquor, the more you drink, the more you have." To fit in, I ordered a glass of fiery northeastern spirits (xiaoshao). It had a strong aftertaste, so I just took a couple of sips to try it. Day 5: Visiting the North Slope Scenic Area of Changbai Mountain. Itinerary: We set off at 8 a.m. for Changbai Mountain Scenic Area. It was said that the main peak of Tianchi was still closed. With a two-hour gap, we left our luggage in the car and took a detour to Meiren Song Park. Changbai Mountain is the hometown of Meiren Song (Beauty Pine). Large groves of Meiren Song exist only in Erdaobaihe town, it seems. Meiren Song, also called Changbai Pine, is a rare tree species unique to Changbai Mountain, a national first-class protected plant. It grows extremely slowly, slender and graceful, reaching straight up to the sky, both robust and charming, like a beautiful maiden. Meiren Song Park is very beautiful. The lake contains hot spring water from Changbai Mountain, so the center does not freeze, and steam rises, creating a dreamlike atmosphere. The north slope of Changbai Mountain is the earliest developed scenic area. There are boiled eggs and corn cooked in hot spring water; you can try them if you like, but there are so many people that it's hard to buy. Under the blazing sun, the white snow contrasts with the blue sky and white clouds. In the snow, steam rises, hot springs flow, cold and heat, ice and fire, interplaying, creating a fairy tale world where it's hard to tell reality from illusion. Two hours later, we set off for the North Slope Scenic Area of Changbai Mountain. The weather was surprisingly good, lifting our spirits. With good weather, we could finally see the true face of Tianchi (Heavenly Lake) on Changbai Mountain, which we eagerly anticipated. However, upon entering the scenic area, we found that Tianchi was still closed. To ensure visitor safety, the opening of Tianchi cannot cater to visitors' wishes. We had to play and wait! The famous Changbai Mountain Waterfall, with a 65-meter drop, was frozen on the outside; from a distance, it looked like an icefall, but inside it was still flowing and cascading. Below the waterfall, the Erdaobai River, the true source of the Songhua River, roared and churned impressively. Changbai Mountain hot springs steamed with heat, shrouded in mist, like a celestial realm. Tianchi finally opened around noon. Ascending to the top of the North Slope of Tianchi, we were very excited—we were about to see the true face of Tianchi! We finally made it to the edge of Tianchi. The lake, which in summer is as beautiful as a sapphire, was completely frozen, a vast expanse of white, as if wrapped in a thick coat like the tourists. We could only imagine its enchanting beauty... Having seen the true face of Tianchi, the Changbai Mountain trip felt complete. We quickly descended. Changbai Mountain is very windy, much colder than Xuegu and Xuexiang. Be sure to wear more clothes. Both inside and outside the scenic area, there are coats and thick knee pads available for rent, convenient for both rental and return, but the prices are a bit high. If you rent at the gate, it's 10 yuan cheaper. This trip allowed us to appreciate the beautiful Greater Northeast and experience the warmth and generosity of the northeastern people. On this journey to the Northeast, Xiao Cui from Xuegu was very enthusiastic, arranged the car thoughtfully, and was meticulous. The drivers for each leg were steady, not talkative but not lacking in humor, with excellent driving skills and smooth driving! Xuexiang is a miracle of nature, truly awe-inspiring: ancient elms, rime, birch forests, and other snow-covered landscapes. It was wonderful to see the silver-clad fairy tale world, to experience the snowfields, frozen rivers, and unique pines draped in icicles—the northern winter is incredibly beautiful. Xuegu offers authentic northeastern culture; experience the charm of the amusement park and play like a child. The journey from Xuegu to Xuexiang through various snowy scenes was dreamlike, like entering a fairyland. This was an unforgettable trip: my first time skiing, first time seeing primeval forests, first time seeing rime. Special thanks for the thoughtful arrangements and service throughout the trip, not only humorous but also showing us many non-scenic beauty spots. About this trip: Harbin - Xuegu, Xuexiang - Changbai Mountain, Changbai Mountain - Shenyang were arranged with help from local inns. Book in advance to ensure availability. Xuegu Inn: Xiangsi Xuegu Inn has a clean environment, good value, good location, and delicious food. Xuexiang Xueyun Pavilion: Higher price but good conditions. Erdaobaihe Dongwo Hotel: Comfortable environment. Changbai Mountain Wangchao Shengdi Hot Spring Hotel: Good environment, slightly expensive. Regarding essential items: Thermos, gloves, scarf, hat, mask, waterproof pants, warm shoes, thick insoles, windbreaker, down jacket, knee pads, thermal underwear, sweater, underclothes, sunglasses, socks, toiletries, dry food, several plastic bags, heat packs.