A Traveler's Guide to Northeast China: Zilan's Ice and Snow Adventure in Harbin, Snow Valley, and Snow Town

Hello everyone, my name is Zilan, a post-90s who just missed being a post-00s. I love photography, volleyball, and travel.

Because of the pandemic, this year has been extraordinary. As winter gradually stabilizes, it's time for an encounter with ice and snow.

I almost forgot to mention that I am also a clever travel expert at Qunar.

Today, follow my lens to explore the secrets of the world of ice and snow!!

Preface: Travel is about experiencing different cultures, seeing different scenery, and eating different foods. For this trip to Northeast China, I gathered a lot of tips from predecessors and did thorough homework, which allowed me to better enjoy what I saw and experienced on the journey.

About the itinerary for Harbin - Snow Valley - Snow Town

DAY1 Harbin (staying at Maitian Youth Hostel)

DAY2 Harbin - Snow Valley (staying at Xiangsi Snow Valley Inn)

DAY3 Snow Valley - Snow Town (staying at Haige Inn)

DAY4 Snow Town - Harbin (staying at Maitian Youth Hostel)

DAY5 Depart from Harbin

In just 5 days, there are a few things to note:

1. Book rooms in Snow Valley and Snow Town as soon as you finalize your tickets (plane/train tickets). Early booking can save a lot of money.

2. About the cold in Northeast China in winter: Normally in the south, 5-10°C feels freezing. But Harbin's forecast is -20°C. Everyone must think it would be deadly cold. However, the cold in Northeast China is superficial (seems bluffing), which is the so-called dry cold. This kind of cold is somewhat harmful to exposed skin. The cold in the south is damp cold, which seeps into the bones. Relatively speaking, being in a -20°C environment in the Northeast is even more comfortable than being in 5-10°C in the south. Besides, indoor spaces in the Northeast are extremely warm. All hotels and inns are equipped with heating or air conditioning, making indoors no different from summer.

3. Cold-weather gear: In winter, the Northeast isn't very dusty. For a 5-day trip, one thick coat is enough. Bring extra underwear to change. Shoes should preferably be high-top snow boots. Hats, gloves, and scarves (neck gaiters) are a must. You can buy gear for climbing in Snow Valley locally to avoid carrying heavy loads, and it's cheap.

4. The warmth of Northeast people is bold. They love to strike up conversations. In the local dialect, it's called 'chatting.' If you are easygoing and kind-looking, you have a high chance of being approached. Don't be nervous; they mean no harm; they just like to greet.

5. In winter, it gets dark early in the Northeast. So if you're driving or playing outdoors, watch the time. By 5 PM, it's basically completely dark.

The travelogue officially begins:

I arrived in Harbin late at night. When I turned on my phone, it showed -31°C. This temperature might even be considered cold by locals, a full 55°C difference from Guangdong.

The airport bus sped through the night in Harbin. Arriving at the youth hostel at 1 AM. About Maitian Youth Hostel: its location is great, very close to Central Street, and convenient for visiting Ice and Snow World, Sun Island, and other attractions. It suited our travel needs well.

Day 2 Overview: Maitian International Youth Hostel - Old Daowai - Saint Sophia Cathedral - Central Street Flood Control Monument - Ice and Snow World

The start of the Northeast trip should naturally begin in Harbin.

But because of my aversion to city tours, we only left one day for Harbin in the entire 5-day trip.

Based on early research and a planned itinerary, I designed a route to cover the core area of Harbin in one day. We followed the plan, and the timing was just right. So this one-day itinerary is quite useful and very easy to adjust.

One-day tour note: Since Old Daowai has changed a lot in recent years, and many old shops may have relocated, to avoid misleading, please refer to real-time review websites for the locations of all shops mentioned in this article.

Maitian Youth Hostel is located on Jingyu South Third Street in Daowai, making it an excellent starting point for a one-day tour of Harbin. It's about a half-hour walk from the hostel to Central Street and the Songhua River. The location is extremely advantageous.

In the early morning, the sunshine in Harbin was especially bright. We were lucky that the weather was good all five days in the Northeast.

Winter in Old Daowai has a unique flavor characteristic of industrial urban living areas. Bricks, steel bars, wires, tin sheets, plastic film on windows, and uneven roads due to frozen domestic sewage. Each element alone lacks beauty, but when combined, they appear so natural and harmonious.

First meal in Harbin:

Tofu pudding (doufunao) originates from Tianjin, Shandong, Hebei, and even parts of Qinghai, where salty versions are common. But this bowl, I think, has its own special flavor in the Northeast. Besides the bean curd itself needing to be full of bean aroma, the broth is also important—too bland is tasteless, too thick is murky and unpleasant. Many shops add seaweed, dried shrimp, and cilantro to enhance the umami. The final step is thickening the broth with starch, but there's no need to worry because whether in a provincial big restaurant or a roadside eatery, thickening is a skill every Northeastern chef must master. Pour a small spoonful of chili oil over the tofu pudding, and pair it with meat buns. Even on a -30°C morning in Harbin, it can warm every cold heart.

Garlic eggplant is a staple side dish on Northeastern tables. In the bitterly cold winters of the Northeast over a decade ago, when fresh vegetables were scarce, eating fresh vegetables in winter was a luxury. Therefore, every family pickles a variety of pickles, including sauerkraut, Korean kimchi, sweet garlic, pickled cucumbers, king oyster mushrooms, seaweed shreds, dried tofu, and platycodon. Among them, garlic eggplant is the simplest to make and one of the most delicious pickles. Tofu pudding with meat buns is as classic as garlic with eggplant.

After leaving Old Daowai, we walked to Saint Sophia Cathedral.

This is a landmark building in Harbin. Not visiting the cathedral is like never having been to Harbin. Saint Sophia Cathedral is a historical witness to the Russian invasion of Northeast China and an important relic for studying the modern history of Harbin. It also forms a unique exotic cultural landscape and urban style. The cathedral was originally built in 1907 (the 33rd year of the Guangxu reign) as a military church for the Russian Fourth Infantry Division of East Siberia during the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway. It is currently the best-preserved Byzantine-style building in China.

Groups of white pigeons flew up and down from the cathedral, full of exotic charm. The most striking part of the cathedral is the huge, deep green dome. This form of Russian architectural roof is magnificent and looks perfect from any angle.

On the way from Sophia to Central Street, we passed by Yan Shou Yi Big Kidney (a skewer shop). This shop was recommended to me by a Harbin netizen, so I bought a few skewers to try. My friend was also interested since it could boost energy. The kidney was sliced, easy to eat, and generously seasoned. It tasted good, hard for men to resist.

After walking about half an hour, we finally saw the entrance to Central Street.

Central Street is currently the longest pedestrian street in Asia, somewhat similar to the Western architecture cluster on the Bund in Shanghai. Central Street also has over 70 European-style buildings. In Harbin, there are too many traces of Russia.

Interesting ice sculptures along the street. Advertisements also appeared in the unique form of the Ice City.

Modern ice pops (Madian'er) are now very famous. Actually, there are many tastier ice creams in Harbin, but Modern has become a symbol of Central Street.

We continued strolling along Central Street for a while. I suggested finding a restaurant to eat and rest. Thinking about it, we hadn't tried Russian food yet, so we went to Portman. 'Portman' is a transliteration, meaning 'shared space.' The interior decoration and furnishings were quite atmospheric, a complete opposite to the restaurant we ate at in Old Daowai.

Kvass here tasted better than the bottled ones outside.

Beef steak, very tender and delicious.

At the end of Central Street is the Harbin Flood Control Victory Monument. Located on the bank of the Songhua River, it was built to commemorate the people of Harbin overcoming the major flood in 1957. The monument is 120.30 meters high, marking the highest water level during the 1957 flood when the whole city fought against it.

Beside the monument is the Songhua River. In winter, the river freezes completely, forming a huge natural ice playground.

The busiest area by the river is exactly below the Flood Control Monument because it connects to Central Street.

There are many recreational facilities along the riverbank. Just look around, because tomorrow in Snow Valley we'll go crazy with ice and snow fun.

In Northeast China, winter sunsets are early; basically by 5 PM, it's completely dark. We booked a trip to Ice and Snow World through a travel agency, including round-trip transportation. It's worth noting that taking a taxi back from Ice and Snow World at night is not only expensive but also hard to get. Therefore, the agency's short trip is the most cost-effective option. The shuttle bus starts and ends at Central Street.

Ice and Snow World: the charm of ice seems to be maximized here. The ice world decorated with neon lights looks like a magical castle. There are free ice slides and other attractions, but there are many people, and the queues are long. I suggest not lingering on the ice slide, because Boss Cui in Snow Valley said that the ice and snow entertainment there has no time limit, no waiting in line, and is plentiful.

We only queued once and got too cold. Queuing was too painful, so we quickly took more photos while we had time. The colorful ice city was unforgettable.

That night, we didn't receive a call from the driver for the next day's trip to Snow Valley. When I returned, my phone had frozen and shut down!!!

I quickly charged it, which worried the driver and Boss Cui.

After confirming the meet-up time at 6 AM, my friend said it was a bit early, but for the beautiful scenery, we endured.

At 6 AM, we gathered at Central Street and departed for Snow Valley.

Today's destination is China Snow Valley. Snow Valley is 15 kilometers from Snow Town, with Yangcao Mountain between them. According to information, Snow Valley is located in Dongsheng Forest Farm (also called Dahe Shen Management Area due to reform and development). Next to Dongsheng Forest Farm is another place called Changqing Forest Farm, also known as Snow Valley. Based on recommendations, we booked at Dongsheng Snow Valley because it's closer to Snow Town for the cross-mountain hike, making the itinerary more convenient. At night, Snow Valley has dreamy lights and a red lantern corridor for photo opportunities. It's more crowded and livelier.

At noon, we arrived at Snow Valley and got off at the door of Xiangsi Snow Valley Inn. I have to say, Boss Cui's arrangement was really thoughtful, and the driver was great. We are used to staying in hotels; occasionally staying in a family-style inn gave a different feeling. The small village had private bathrooms, and if we needed disposable toiletries, we could ask the aunt.

About Xiangsi Snow Valley Inn: The location is excellent, and the boss is super warm. When we got off, we called him Boss Cui, and he said it was too formal; just call him Xiao Cui or Student Cui. Indeed, Northeast people are very friendly. Xiao Cui helped us book the car from Harbin to Snow Valley, which was timely and reliable.

In the afternoon, according to others' experience, we had to go to the amusement park. 150 yuan for unlimited time offered great value. It's close to Xiao Cui's house, just over 100 meters walk down a small slope from the main road. A natural ice surface was cleanly cleared, and ice and snow fun began.

During lunch at the inn, we met a family of three who had stayed at the inn for four days. Their kid loved playing in the snow at this amusement park, and they had only paid once for four days of play. Truly a conscientious amusement park.

Skiing always ended in falls; the ice tire was the best. Probably because I'm heavy, my center of gravity is stable, so I slid the farthest each time.

Since no cameras were allowed during ice and snow activities, there are no photos. Finally, I flopped around in the snow near the park. The vast white landscape made my friend ecstatic, unable to resist rolling in the snow. We started a competition of snow swimming in an empty area, rolling back and forth. No one laughed because everyone is still a child at heart. (No photos here; we need to save face.)

Dinner was also at the inn. Aunt Cui's cooking was good. Northeastern stewed sauerkraut has a refined taste, paired with wild vegetables, it was especially delicious.

Frozen pears and frozen persimmons are common frozen fruits in winter in the Northeast. The frozen pear turns dark brown, at first glance like a devil fruit from One Piece, but it tastes good—sweet and sour with plenty of juice. Frozen persimmons are sweeter than unfrozen ones. This is all the magical power of cold temperatures. (Or maybe it's 'Balala energy.')…

Snow Valley was brilliantly colorful at night. After dinner, we strolled on the small street—charcoal-grilled meat skewers, candied hawthorns, and hot sweet potatoes…

Next to Xiangsi Inn, there is a bar called 'Drunken Valley' with a minimum consumption of 20 yuan, free karaoke. There were goddess-level singers and a heavy, out-of-tune male singer like me. People from all over chatted, drank, and sang—no one mocked anyone's singing; it was just for fun. And indeed, it was lively.

The Snow Valley village was both lively and peaceful, with houses of various sizes blending with colors. We slept soundly at the inn. Tomorrow we would cross into Snow Town.

If I had time, I'd suggest staying an extra day in Snow Valley, just for the free amusement park and the warm people here.

By the way, the inn had a dumpling-making competition in the evening. Look how well I made mine.

Crossing Yangcao Mountain:

Early morning, Aunt Cui prepared breakfast: rice porridge, pickles, and my friend's favorite steamed buns. A tip: if you book the inn by phone, you can ask for complimentary breakfast. As for how to contact the inn, to avoid advertising, please search 'Xiangsi Snow Valley Inn' on Ctrip yourself. Very nice.

'Through forests of trees, across snowfields'—that's us. Fortunately, the horse-drawn carriage we booked at 8 AM saved us a lot of energy. Amid the jingle of bells, we followed the mighty team climbing the snowy mountain. After getting off the carriage and hiking halfway, my friend said, 'What an addiction I have to climb a snowy mountain, revisiting history, feeling the revolutionary spirit of the Red Army.' I teased him for being so political about climbing a mountain.

Fortunately, we arrived at Snow Town before total exhaustion; otherwise, we'd have to call professionals to escort us down.

I recommend taking a horse-drawn sleigh ride—cost-effective at 100 yuan per person for 5 kilometers. Without it, we would have been exhausted. If possible, I suggest booking a half-way snowmobile ride for 150 yuan for 2.5 kilometers. With lightning speed, you can reach the top in ten minutes.

China Snow Town - The Fairy Tale World of Northeast China

A few years ago, there were issues with overpricing in shops, which hurt its reputation. So in recent years, the management has strictly controlled prices. Now everything is clearly marked, and objectively, prices are acceptable.

Snow Town is located at an altitude of over 1,000 meters. It has rainy summers and snowy winters, with a snow cover period lasting up to 7 months. Snowfall is frequent and long-lasting; there's a saying that 'the sky doesn't have three sunny days.' From October to May, snow accumulates continuously, with an average annual snow depth of 2 meters, making it the heaviest snowfall in China. The snow quality is good and sticky, forming a unique snow accumulation state in Snow Town.

Snow Town isn't very large, roughly the size of two villages. Walking from south to north takes just over half an hour. Only Changbai Mountain can rival the snow here, so I recommend visiting. And since prices have been stabilized by local management, you can buy with confidence. If there are problems, take photos and report to the local management committee.

Most buildings have been developed into inns and restaurants, making it highly commercialized. The snow is like a fairy tale. I suggest one day is enough for Snow Town. If you don't plan to hike across the mountain, half a day is sufficient. It's like giant ice cream sprinkled on rooftops and tree stumps.

Also, because the air is clean, the snow is exceptionally white. Snow Town is very suitable for family trips; it was the filming location for the final stop of 'Where Are We Going, Dad? Season 1.' The living conditions indoors are much better than in ordinary villages.

About Snow Town food: Mapo Tofu. Northeast Mapo Tofu uses firm tofu, first fried until golden, then stir-fried with chili oil. It's spicy but almost numbing. Northeasterners hardly eat Sichuan peppercorn.

Northeastern sticky bean buns (niandoubao)—a staple of the Northeast at night! And these sticky bean buns are made with purple glutinous rice, filled with bean paste, and topped with sugar. Very, very good. Braised lamb and vermicelli with sauerkraut—the quality of the sauerkraut is excellent. This time in the Northeast, I didn't plan to eat typical Northeastern dishes, but unconsciously, I ended up trying them all.

Snow Town is most dazzling at night. No need to say more; just look at the photos.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end.

The next morning, we enjoyed Snow Town in daylight again.

After noon, we left Snow Town and returned directly to Harbin. The midday car arrived in Harbin in the evening.

With a head full of pure white memories, I fell asleep and woke up naturally. No events that night. Heading home tomorrow.

That's Zilan's travel diary. The people and events mentioned are all based on personal experience. If you like it, please leave a comment haha.