The Most Ethereal Journey: A Divine Life Wandering in Harbin, Xuegu, and Xuexiang

Foreword: When you're young, you roam—go for free travel, go wherever you feel comfortable. I took a trip to the Great Northeast, a pure white world, feeling like a little fairy. No, I am a little fairy. Haha.

After some discussion with friends, I finally settled on the itinerary I had been dreaming of: a southerner girl experiencing the grandeur of Harbin, the Ice City, then playing to my heart's content with snow in Xuegu, admiring the splendor of Xuexiang, and sketching the rime on Wusong Island. The show has begun. One of my travel companions switched between a camera and a phone to take pictures. We'll recommend things we found good along the way. To avoid being seen as advertising, this is just for your reference. Information about dressing and ride-sharing is at the end for reference.

Now let's start the itinerary:

D1: After a whole night on the bullet train, the first thing I did was take a taxi to the hotel. The indoor environment was spacious, and the heating was very sufficient—everything felt dry. But it was really warm. I have to complain: people in the north are so happy; people in the south live in the deep, cold winter.

For lunch, we went to Laochang Spring Pancakes. It's a very popular restaurant with a huge crowd, plus the central location on Central Street brought in a lot of people. There were many diners, and even though we had to wait for a number, we persisted as foodies. Here's a five-picture attack. Don't drool.

On Central Street in Harbin, you can't miss the Modier Ice Popsicle, a century-old brand of cold drinks.

I thought the popsicle would be very hard, but it was actually quite soft. My friend and I both thought it tasted good. My friend said, 'If this weren't in Harbin, eating an ice pop on the street in winter would get you called crazy.' If you took it to the hotel to eat, it would be a heavenly treat!

There were also all kinds of candied hawthorns in various shapes. I think only in Harbin can you eat the real thing—because it's so cold, the fruit freezes into ice. And there were strawberry ones, which were my absolute favorite because they looked beautiful and eating them was truly satisfying.

At noon, we had time to visit Russian Town. The ticket looked like a passport, which was pretty interesting. The Russian-style town is common in the Northeast, as the whole city of Harbin leans toward a Russian style—the former Soviet Union left many traces here, including Sophia Church.

In the evening, if you have time, you can go to the Ice and Snow World—absolutely stunning. The two of us booked a small group tour through Xiao Zhi's travel agency, which included round-trip transportation. Personally, I thought the Ice and Snow World was very beautiful, like the castle depicted in the Oscar animated movie Frozen.

Crystal clear and transparent, even more dreamlike at night. Inside the ice castle, I felt like I could reach out and touch the stars.

One thing to note: wear lots of layers and stick on lots of warm patches. Experiencing such a cold environment is quite miserable.

Because the ice sublimates, the temperature at Ice and Snow World is even colder than in the city. Also, I don't recommend queuing for the amusement rides—it's a waste of time and not worth it: waiting an hour for a few seconds of game over. If you really want to play, I recommend the snow park in Xuegu, where you can play freely and ski casually. The venue may not be as spectacular, but it's more than enough for fun.

If you go to Ice and Snow World on your own, you can take the bus there, but the last bus back stops quite early, and taxis are very hard to get. If you go to see the ice lanterns at night, you'll have to take a taxi back, but the price will be very high.

In the evening, we went to Central Street for dinner and shopping. Since it was still early when we returned, we went to the famous Huamei Western Restaurant. Note: this restaurant stops accepting guests at 8:30 p.m., so pay attention to the time. After dinner, we walked on to Sophia Church to see the night view of the Russian-style church.

While eating, I got a call from the driver, confirming the car for the next day from Harbin to Xuegu. This was arranged in advance with Boss Cui of Xuegu. The carpool from Harbin to Xuegu is also very convenient, as long as you book early!

The next morning at 6 a.m., the two of us took the car from near Central Street and sped off to Xuegu.

The road was really boring, but luckily my friend had a movie on her phone. We noticed that the world outside the window was already covered in snow. After marveling for a while and then taking a nap, we arrived at Xuegu around 11 a.m. We got off at Xiangsi Xuegu Inn. As soon as we stepped out, a courtyard full of white greeted our eyes, with a rust-red house. The whiteness of the snow is made even purer by comparing it with other colors.

If in Harbin we experienced cold and ice, then in Xuegu we saw a world of pure white snow. This feeling can only be truly satisfying through personal experience. I touched a handful of snow; it gradually melted in my palm, became transparent, turned into water droplets, and finally disappeared. Snowflakes can only exist in memory. By then, I was already impatient.

Lunch was at the inn. The food in Xuegu tends to be meaty dishes. The small village is quiet and simple. It's filled with the feeling of 'time flows peacefully.' We had dumplings for lunch because they were quick—20 yuan per plate. We have light appetites, so one plate was enough for the two of us.

After a short rest, the highlight of the afternoon arrived. I had already read many other people's travel guides, and following their recommendations, the innkeeper directed us to a comprehensive amusement park. The ice and snow fun began! Skiing—my friend gave up after falling many times, but I kept on falling again and again. Finally, I overcame my fear. The boss said I had the basics. I successfully learned beginner-level skiing.

Maybe I have a natural talent...

This skill is enough for me to show off for the whole winter. We also played on the snow saucers, ice bicycles, ice tops, bumper balls—there were many different things to do, though I forgot the names of a few. Anyway, we had a great time playing all afternoon.

I also recommend this ice and snow amusement park. After dinner in the evening, there was a half-hour bonfire party. We sang at the bar next door for a while, and my friend and I had a few drinks. The peaceful night of Xuegu was greatly enhanced by this bar. I recommend it to friends who like a lively but not too noisy atmosphere.

These are Xuegu's specialty snacks: specifically, frozen fruits and frozen pears.

The next day's crossing was the highlight of the Xuegu trip, because it involved a 15-kilometer hike. The snowy mountain we crossed was called 'Yangcao Mountain.' 10 kilometers uphill and 5 kilometers downhill. The uphill part is divided into two sections: the first 5 kilometers can be done by horse-drawn sleigh (reference price 100 yuan). Riding the horse-drawn sleigh was very fast. Watching the carriage speed by from behind the horseman, I felt that if one day I ride with my boyfriend, it would be even better—like my Wukong coming to pick me up on a five-colored cloud, or like a bandit chief's wife being taken into his stronghold.

The last 5 kilometers cost 300 yuan for a snowmobile, or 150 yuan for 2.5 kilometers. Also, if you're going to cross, it's best to wear snow boots with good grip, or you can buy crampons locally for about 10 yuan. Friends who love playing in the snow can buy gaiters locally to prevent snow from getting into your shoes, reference price 25 yuan. These small tools are really convenient.

As for luggage transport, we left it to the boss of Xiangsi Inn. You need to tell the boss a day in advance; otherwise, you'll miss the luggage transport car, and then congratulations—you'll have to carry your luggage while climbing the mountain. Reference price 30 yuan for a small bag. It was shipped to the luggage storage at the exit of Xuexiang's Shanhe. The sad thing is, picking up the luggage cost another 10 yuan storage fee. Note: the Xuexiang ticket includes one free ride on the sightseeing car, so don't throw it away casually.

We chose the horse-drawn sleigh and it was really nice. It saved a lot of energy. The snow was deep on the mountainside, but luckily we wore gaiters, so we could step in even deep snow. The top of Yangcao Mountain is truly a masterpiece of nature: white ice and snow wrapped around black branches. A strong wind shook the tree trunks, shedding some ice and snow, revealing dark bark. The trees were carved into the shape of laurels. Imagining Chang'e leaning against a laurel tree under the moon was also very beautiful.

For the descent, you can bring a small plastic sheet to slide if you get tired. Sliding and walking, it's great fun, and most importantly, it saves energy.

We said goodbye to Boss Cui early in the morning and started the crossing at 8 a.m. After a long day of hiking, we arrived at Xuexiang at 2:30 p.m.—a real trek.

The Xuexiang ticket costs 120 yuan. There are also two good photography spots: one is Dream Home, and the other is the farm photography yard next to Dream Home.

The Xuexiang stone tablet inevitably attracts tourists stopping to take photos. Not only domestic visitors but also international friends are here, like the black guy in front—his skin color makes him stand out. Xuexiang is like a fairy-tale world; everything here is harmonious.

Daytime and nighttime in China's Xuexiang are completely different concepts. When night falls, the lights in the village reflect on the white snow, creating a fairy-tale effect, giving the snow scenery a soul. Of course, it's undeniable that Xuexiang during the day is also intoxicating.

On the second day in Xuexiang, it started snowing heavily early in the morning, with no sign of stopping. Although it was overcast and photos weren't great, coming to Xuexiang and experiencing a heavy snow was truly a stroke of luck!

About Xuexiang: it's a very small village. You can walk around it in half an hour at most. But it's small and exquisite. Only here can you appreciate the most beautiful snow. Because Xuexiang is located in a valley, and the wind blows snow from the surrounding mountains, creating a unique snow scene—more snow than in Xuegu. Apart from the slightly higher prices, I felt everything was good.

At 11 a.m., after a meal in Xuexiang, we took a shuttle bus to the exit and then a business carpool driven by a driver to our next stop—Wusong Island.

After about 5 hours, dozing off, we arrived at the booked Xueyun Wanjia Inn.

There are quite a few family inns here; most accommodations in Hantun Village are folk-style, with similar conditions. Recommended by Xiao Cui from Xuegu, we booked Xueyun Wanjia. The landlady was warm and hospitable—I have to say that people recommended by Boss Cui are all equally warm.

When we arrived at Wusong Island that day, we learned that rime had formed that morning. According to big data statistics, the total time for rime formation this winter was only 70 days. You can look up the principle of rime formation to better judge whether it will appear. But it's definitely a matter of luck—you can't always be there just when rime forms. My friend and I were quite lucky: we arrived in the afternoon of the first day, and rime formed the next morning—a magnificent sight.

After breakfast, each of us paid 10 yuan for a ride to Hantun Pier. The fog was so thick that we couldn't even see the ferry boat coming. Everything was white, as if we were lost in a fairyland. We couldn't see what was on the other side of the river at all. Exploring Wusong Island with curiosity and mystery was truly a pleasure.

Though there was no blue sky, the foggy island had a different charm—mysterious and ethereal. There were quite a few trees on the island. I heard you can also see rime in Zengtong, but we only had one day for Wusong Island, and the rime usually disappears by noon. So we had to choose between Hantun and Zengtong. As the saying goes, take things as they come.

As the fog gradually cleared to reveal the rime, I was so excited I even forgot to press the shutter. The silver-clad world reminded me of a line from 'The Silver Age': 'The world is made of silver.' At noon, we went back to the riverside. By then, the fog had dissipated, and the rime had naturally and mysteriously vanished. Actually, if you come to Wusong Island, you can see rime in the morning and then go to nearby Ula Street in the afternoon. You can ask the landlady to arrange a carpool. Ula Street is the birthplace of the Manchu people here, so it's worth a visit. The hot pot there is very flavorful.

As our journey on Wusong Island came to an end, we took a train from Jilin Railway Station back to our own lives. As Qian Zhongshu said: life is like a city; people inside want to get out, and people outside want to get in. Every trip is a way of getting out, but in the end, we must return to the city. Because this city holds our true selves and the lives we choose. Rather than saying we get out, we have never really left.

A trip needs good planning for accommodation and transportation. Among these, accommodation is a key step. Once you book a homestay, the owner will help you with related car and other issues. Thanks to Boss Cui and the landlady of Xueyun Wanjia for their warmth and for solving various problems during my trip.

Lower body: double-layer thermal leggings + thick fleece leggings + softshell pants

Upper body: wool sweater (1 spare) + sport pullover + down jacket

Feet: snow boots + thick cotton socks

Others: pure cotton scarf + mask + ski gloves + hat

These are enough for sub-zero temperatures. In fact, Harbin was not as cold as I imagined. If you wear enough and eat enough, you won't feel cold. It's much like the straightforward character of Northeasterners. Also, most DSLR cameras work in -20°C environments. For mobile phones at low temperatures, pay attention to battery life—low temperatures drain batteries quickly. So it's advisable to attach a warming pack or bring an extra power bank. Warm patches should be stuck on the body—the warmer your body, the hotter they get. Reminder: don't apply directly to the skin; it can cause burns.

Carpool Harbin—Xuegu: arranged by the owner of Xiangsi Xuegu Inn, cost 100 yuan/person. The carpool was very convenient and smooth, but the journey was long (about 4–5 hours). I recommend preparing a movie to watch. The drop-off was right at the inn door—very convenient.

Xuexiang—Wusong Island carpool: arranged by the driver we met on the way. Since we were familiar with the Xuegu inn, we trusted this driver. You can also ask the innkeeper to arrange it, which is more convenient, but you must book in advance. The drive from Xuexiang to Wusong Island took just over 4 hours. The driver was very steady and nice—I recommend him here. Cost: 120 yuan/person.

Wusong Island—Jilin Railway Station carpool: cost 30 yuan/person. This time, the landlady of Xueyun Wanjia Inn helped arrange it. For a whole car, it was 150 yuan. The five of us staying there happened to leave around the same time, so each person paid 30 yuan on average.

Accommodation in four places: Harbin, Xuegu, Xuexiang, Wusong Island

Harbin accommodation: Manhattan Apartment Hotel

(Booked through Ctrip, reference price 390 yuan/night. Great location—right next to Saint Sophia Cathedral, across the street. For Harbin accommodation, the best areas are Central Street or near Saint Sophia. Staying there means other attractions are close, and the car to Xuegu departs from nearby, so transportation is very convenient.)

Xuegu accommodation: Xiangsi Xuegu Inn

(The boss is Mr. Cui—very hospitable and attentive. Several travelogues I read online recommended this inn, so I decided on it. On Ctrip, the reference price for a double room with private bathroom is 128 yuan. Worth mentioning: there's an amusement park not far from the inn where you can ski, ice bike, ice sled, snow tube, ice top, etc. It's quite good—I recommend visiting. Reference price 150 yuan. Families with children can stay a few more days.)

Xuexiang accommodation: Guandong Inn

(Booked by phone through Boss Cui in Xuegu. Located in a village outside Xuexiang, with shuttle service, reference price 260 yuan/night, including private bathroom and breakfast. Because inside Xuexiang, the reference price is 450 yuan.)

Wusong Island accommodation: Xueyun Wanjia Inn

(Also paid in advance, reference price 120 yuan/person (including two meals). The accommodation conditions aren't as good as in Harbin, but the landlady is warm and the food she cooks is nice. The rooms were heated nice and warm. She's a great person.)

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