Unlock the Most Beautiful Winter Destination—Harbin: These Are the Things You Must Do!
Unlock the Most Beautiful Winter Destination—Harbin: These Are the Things You Must Do!
If the essence of cuisine is 'eating in season,' then travel should also be 'traveling in season.' In winter, Guangdong lacks the changing beauty of the four seasons, while distant Heilongjiang is in its ideal season for travel—a world of ice and snow.
From Shenzhen at 20°C above zero to Harbin at 20°C below zero, a 4.5-hour flight crosses from early autumn to deep winter. I marvel at the vastness of our country, where even in winter we can experience the scenery of all seasons.
A few days later, sitting at my desk at home, the excitement of the trip still lingers with a hint of fatigue, and I can't wait to write down this journey. This is my favorite part—opening my computer feels like revisiting the place.
Come on, as usual, I'll divide it into three sections: food, accommodation, and transportation—none can be missed. Let's start with transportation.
In winter, the frozen Songhua River has an ice layer dozens of meters thick, creating a natural playground.
Walking along the riverbank requires cold-proof measures. I met a hearty Northeastern guy, and as we talked, water vapor froze on our eyelashes.
The white surface of the Songhua River feels like velvet. At dusk, the day and night blur together, warm and cool tones merging into a gentle backdrop for the river.
At 4 p.m., streetlights turn on, and the winter night in the Northeast arrives so suddenly. The warm orange glow is deceptive—it's more than 20 degrees below zero. Eating ice cream by the river is a true test of resilience.
Opening hours: 8:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.
Ticket price: 15 yuan
Here lies Saint Sophia Cathedral, a Byzantine-style Orthodox church built in 1907, a landmark of Harbin.
I've seen Sophia Cathedral countless times in the media, and today I finally stand before it. Actually, calling it purely Byzantine is not entirely accurate; it differs from the Byzantine churches I've seen in Europe, with more Russian elements blended in.
The square at night has a magical filter, like stepping onto a platform from Harry Potter—the most beautiful moment of Harbin arrives.
Address: Daoli District, Flood Control Monument
Transportation: Take Night Bus Line 1 to Daoli Sandao Street Station
Every ancient street has its place in history. In 1898, during the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway, most building materials were shipped along the Songhua River to Harbin, docking at simple wharves near the current Flood Control Monument and Tongjiang Street intersection. Goods unloaded from ships were transported by rickshaws and horse-drawn carts to construction sites.
With people walking, horses treading, and carts rolling, a path was gradually worn through the grassy marshland. Foreign merchants seized the opportunity to open shops, and later, cobblestones were laid for smoother passage.
There are different legends about the cobblestones. Some say they were laid by the Russians; others say each stone is one meter long, hammered into the ground like stakes; still others claim each stone was worth one dollar.
Anyway, the memories of history are now underfoot, so you must take a walk on Central Street and step on those cobblestones. The entire street's architecture is distinctive, featuring influences from the 15th–16th century Renaissance, 17th-century Baroque, 18th-century Eclecticism, and 19th-century Art Nouveau—the most influential architectural movements in Western history, covering a century of architectural art. If you're an architecture enthusiast, you'll fall in love with this street.
At night, Central Street radiates winter warmth amidst the neon bustle, stunningly beautiful and crowded with visitors. Having a Modern ice cream or a Russian-style meal is essential to feel you've truly been there.
You can also take a stroll to the Flood Control Monument.
Address: East side of Stalin Park, Songhua Riverbank, Daoli District
Transportation: Take Bus 52 to Qingniangong Station
This bridge has an impressive title—the earliest railway bridge on the Songhua River, built in 1900. The Binzhou Line refers to the railway from Harbin to Manzhouli. This cross-river bridge carries over 100 years of Harbin's railway history and changes. Now retired, it has been converted into a pedestrian walkway for tourists.
Another interesting point: the Binzhou Railway Bridge divides Daoli and Daowai districts. The pillbox with gun holes by the roadside remains intact.
Address: 88 Songbei Street, Songbei District
Transportation: Take Bus 35 to Hulin Park Station
Business hours: May 1 – Oct 9: 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.; Oct 10 – Apr 30: 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Ticket price: From 117 yuan
A local veteran told us, 'At other places, people watch tigers; here, tigers watch people.' Sure enough, once we entered the park on a sightseeing bus, we saw tigers leisurely lying on the snow and artificial hills far and near, far outnumbering the passengers on our bus.
A big tiger glanced at our regular sightseeing bus and couldn't be bothered to move its head. But if it had been a thrill-seeking vehicle, they would have already gathered around. The thrill vehicles allow feeding the tigers (food purchased separately), essentially a large mobile dining car for the tigers.
Besides tigers, there are also lions roaming among them. Watching the king of beasts up close is an exciting experience.
Address: 197 Jingyang Street, Daowai District
Transportation: Take Bus 109 to Jingyang Street Station
With a Western exterior but a Chinese-style courtyard inside, it's a unique architectural form created by Harbin locals—Chinese Baroque. Old Daowai is the largest preserved 'Chinese Baroque' architectural block in China, with the entire street imbued with historical atmosphere, giving a sense of time travel.
Taking photos against the old buildings felt like a Qing palace drama, but my bulky gear hindered my expression.
Probably due to the weather, there weren't many tourists on the street, but the restaurants were packed. There were quite a few time-honored eateries. I chose a century-old clay pot restaurant with a friend—renowned for its clay pot dishes, the taste was impeccable, though the Guobao Rou (sweet and sour pork) had slightly thick meat. In the freezing winter, a hot clay pot down the belly instantly revived me.
Address: 555 Youyi Road, Shangri-La Hotel, Harbin
Harbin Shangri-La Hotel (hereinafter 'Ha Xiang') has hosted the Ice Bucket Challenge for the seventh year this year. Starting from the internationally advocated Ice Bucket Challenge, Ha Xiang has made it a winter tradition. Now the founder of the Ice Bucket Challenge, Pete Frates, has passed away from ALS, but his initiative has raised awareness of ALS and donations for patients, and most importantly, his spirit continues here.
This is a contest for warriors—thrilling and full of self-challenge. I shiver just watching. The participants are truly amazing—kudos to them!
Address: Gate 1, Sun Island Scenic Area, 3 Taiyang Avenue, Songbei District
Transportation: Take the Songhua River Cable Car to Sun Island
Opening hours: Every winter, from late December to the Chinese New Year period, 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Ticket price: Adult 240 yuan, Student 120 yuan
Full name: Sun Island International Snow Sculpture Art Expo. The Snow Expo has a history of 29 years, playing a 'Winter Love Song' on time every winter—a perfect gathering of people and snow, art and nature.
Large snow sculptures are spectacular, while small ones are delightful. Some ice sculptures were still being made quickly, with multiple people working together—each participant is an artist.
My first experience on an ice slide—I did it twice in a row, and would have done more if not for time constraints.
Address: West Area of Sun Island, Songbei District
Transportation: Business Bus 11 to Harbin Ice and Snow World Station
Business hours: Daily 10:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Ticket price: 100 yuan
Before this trip, whenever I mentioned I was going to Harbin, people would ask, 'Going to the Ice and Snow World?' That shows its fame and appeal among southerners.
From my hotel room, through the large glass window, I could see the bright, glittering area in the distance, like a glowing treasure bowl.
I was very lucky that the Ice and Snow World opened just before I left, and thanks to local friends, I didn't even need to buy a ticket.
Although I'm from the north, I'm not as far north as Northeast China. Even in winter, I only experienced cold without having fun. This time, my horizons were broadened. I saw large-scale ice sculptures of various styles and numerous ice entertainment activities. Underfoot was ice, I touched ice, and everything I saw was ice. Colorful lights penetrated the crystal-clear ice blocks, giving the structures more dimension. In just over ten days, flat land turned into a paradise—such a massive project achieved at incredible speed.
I have to admire how cold-resistant Northeastern children are—the 6-year-old son of a friend rolled on the ice, enjoying the slide endlessly.
This place might be for storing people? (Covering face)
I witnessed the legendary 'wild outdoor partying'—a massive, open-air party in the snow, truly mind-blowing. The sound lingers even now...
For me, understanding local cuisine is an indispensable part of the journey. Compared to delicate southern dishes, Northeastern cuisine reveals a boldness and warmth that matches the local character. Generous portions are its biggest feature; in the Northeast, you need to adjust your ordering mindset, otherwise it's easy to waste food. The feelings of reunion and festivity are what Northeastern food, besides flavor, brings to people.
Though it's easy to find hometown dishes anywhere nowadays, authentic flavor relies on local ingredients. Some misunderstandings I had about Northeastern cuisine were corrected during this trip.
Occasionally in Shenzhen, I would have a iron pot stew, sitting around the pot with others, where meat and fish simmer, and the aroma of cornbread rises with the steam.
But in Harbin, especially after entering the Shangri-La Hotel's Xianggong Chinese Restaurant private room, I realized how weak the previous experience was. A huge table seating 20 people was before me, with a table within a table, and a stove within it.
Three iron pots were already in action: two pots contained free-range chicken stewed with local hazel mushrooms and goose stewed with mountain potatoes. The third pot was probably still being prepared.
Amid the appetizers (I admit, too excited with drinking and chatting, so I have no photos), the star dish arrived with fanfare and drumming.
Everyone cheered; too eager to wait until it entered the room, they rushed out to take photos. The long-awaited dish was the Northeastern Fish Head Buddha Jumps Over the Wall.
Besides the huge wild fish head from the Songhua River, there were wild prawns larger than a hand, sea cucumber, abalone, goose feet, pork ribs... many precious ingredients, slow-cooked in premium broth. Imagine the taste—I'm swallowing saliva just thinking about it.
Whenever I saw on TV people having hotpot in an ice house in the Northeast, I was always curious about the experience. Unexpectedly, I soon got to experience it myself.
Previously, every year the Harbin Songbei Shangri-La Hotel (hereinafter 'Song Xiang') would build an ice palace in winter. This year, due to well-known reasons, they built a snow house instead. It looked like a pure white little castle, as if Snow White lived inside. But inside... maybe a wild Northeastern princess.
With floral fabric laid out, a hotpot set up, small drinks poured, and Northeastern background music—Emperor! The Chinese New Year vibe was so strong it turned me into a semi-automatic Northeastern dialect speaker.
The cups were made of ice, and even the broth pot was made of ice—cooking lamb in an ice pot is called 'ice-cooked lamb.' You have to experience this feature in the Northeast. The lamb was tender and delicious, with no gamey taste. Even a friend who usually avoids lamb couldn't stop eating after trying it. Another reason we couldn't stop—it was cold. Don't be fooled by the floral fabric; we were having hotpot at minus 20 degrees Celsius in the snow.
Lamb, beef, seafood... this meal lasted over two hours of continuous eating and drinking, warming us from the inside out. This was the most memorable meal of my Harbin trip.
I met Xiaopang years ago in Yangzhou. Over the years, he has been dedicated to promoting local Harbin cuisine and has become a well-known food blogger. Thanks to him, he took me to a place locals call the 'Number One Sister of the fishing village closest to the Songhua River'—Sister Pang's Fishing Village, to eat river delicacies.
I've eaten a lot of seafood before, but knew little about the rich offerings of the Songhua River. This time, not only did I feast, but I also broadened my horizons—'Three Flowers, Five Snaps, Eighteen Seeds.' After returning, I tried hard to study them but still get confused. I guess I'll have to rely on eating to reinforce my memory—I'll need to come often.
Northeasterners have a 'daring' quality in cooking—using local ingredients, even if they seem incompatible, they can all be stewed together. Beluga sturgeon stewed with potatoes—the sturgeon is rich in flavor, the potatoes soft and tasty, absorbing the umami of the sturgeon, even better than the fish itself.
Later, two more types of fish were served. I've forgotten their names, only recalling they were full of meat and boneless, allowing carefree eating and enjoyable tasting.
What impressed me deeply was the iron pot stewed beans. I went downstairs to order with a friend. Dozens of iron pots were lined up, and my friend said these stews are sold out quickly. One pot contained beans and meat, seemingly unremarkable. My friend asked for a serving, but the last portion was already reserved, leaving only insufficient leftovers. My friend insisted, 'We'll take the leftover.'
When it arrived on a plate with braised pork ribs, I first tasted the beans my friend had 'begged' for. My eyes lit up—ordinary beans have thin skins and get mushy easily, but these beans had thick, soft skins, and the beans inside had absorbed the essence of the broth, very flavorful.
Soft-fried Acanthopanax leaves
Acanthopanax is a shrub; seeds, stems, and bark all have value. The leaves, soft-fried, are crispy and fragrant.
Frozen fruits are an essential dessert for every meal.
In the Northeast, no problem can't be solved by a skewer barbecue. If it can't, then two sessions! On Christmas Eve, I sat with a friend, watching snow fall outside the window while enjoying the spiciness of Northeastern barbecue, accompanied by warm skewers. My body slowly awakened, and unpleasant memories were healed by the scene.
I love barbecue that's full of charcoal aroma, meat with balanced fat and lean, and vegetables that are spicy and crispy. I don't like the sweet or Orleans-style seasonings common in southern barbecue—simple chili, cumin, salt with good ingredients suit me best. So, before coming to the Northeast, I vowed to have at least one barbecue session. With Xiaopang leading the way, my wish came true—I was very satisfied.
Grilled bone marrow was a first—special, with chewy skin and a jelly-like marrow inside, contrasting sharply.
Grilled silkworm pupae are also indispensable in Northeastern barbecue; I love the burst of protein in the mouth.
There are many more Northeastern specialties. The day we went to Old Daowai, we ate at the local time-honored Li's Clay Pot Restaurant. Generous portions at affordable prices—beef meatball tofu pot and sauerkraut pork belly pot were both good, with a fried bread enough for two. However, the Guobao Rou was slightly disappointing—meat too thick and not fluffy enough, far from the one at Song Xiang's Chinese restaurant.
But the price was incredibly cheap—only 12 yuan for a clay pot, even in the scenic area.
Sugar-coated hawthorn skewers, frozen pears, and killing-the-pig dish could all be had at our hotel—the two Shangri-La Hotels in Harbin.
Additionally, the roast duck with date wood and exquisitely presented local dishes at Song Xiang's Chinese restaurant were also memorable.
After returning, I said to a friend, 'So Northeastern cuisine is also so rich! But you shouldn't offer everything at once—the interplay of flavors and my limited stomach capacity might not do justice to some dishes.' This is a hard problem for short trips.
The low temperatures create Harbin's unique and spectacular winter scenery. Playing outside all day is fun but demanding on the body. Returning to the hotel for a nice warm bath and a good night's sleep quickly restores energy. So, comfortable accommodation is crucial. This time, I stayed at both Shangri-La Hotels in Harbin; comfort goes without saying, but I've noted their features to help you choose.
Ha Xiang is near the central business district. It's about a 10-minute drive from Central Street, a century-old street. It's also convenient for visiting Sophia Cathedral, Siberian Tiger Park, etc. Think of it as being at the center of the universe—easy access to everywhere.
My river-view room offered a beautiful view of the Songhua River, and at night I could stroll along the riverbank.
*Themed family rooms
Six themed family suites deserve a special mention, combining the design inspiration of Singapore's Shangri-La family suites with Harbin's ice and snow elements. Such rooms—even a grown-up kid like me didn't want to leave.
Each themed room's entrance hints at the theme.
The same floor has an open amenities room offering free items for use, rental, or purchase. Very thoughtful—no need to bring lots of stuff for the kids.
*Buffet is excellent
Over the years traveling domestically and internationally, I've stayed in many hotels and have my own standards for hotel dining. Besides the Xianggong Chinese Restaurant, the all-day dining restaurant at Ha Xiang also deserves praise.
Besides Japanese cuisine and seafood, local delicacies are abundant—you can cover all local snacks here.
The winter hotpot warms you as soon as it's served.
Grilled cold noodles, killing-the-pig dish, egg custard, steamed sticky bean buns, barbecue... just sampling all these treats filled me up.
*Over 90% of rooms have river views
No matter which room, you can enjoy the sunrise and sunset over the Songhua River. 'Step into a warm room and sip tea while overlooking the scenery'—this experience is precious in the cold Northeast. The beauty of the Songhua River changes from morning to night, so you know it's worth having.
At night, through the window, I could see the bustling cross-river bridge and the colorful Ice and Snow World in the distance, like a multicolored treasure bowl.
Besides the rooms, let's check out the gym and pool—these also offer visual feasts while exercising, isn't that nice?
The hotel is close to Sun Island, allowing you to visit the Snow Expo, Siberian Tiger Park, and Harbin Grand Theater in one go.
*Serviced executive apartments
The hotel also offers apartments from 45 to 133 square meters, suitable for long-stay or short-term renters—a home you can move into instantly. With housekeeping, full safety, and convenient dining, exercise, and transportation.
*Dining variety
The 'Xiangchu' Chinese restaurant has been introduced earlier; there's also 'Song Coffee' Western restaurant and a lobby lounge. Don't forget the limited-time snow house in winter! Ps: Want to try the 'pour boiling water and instantly turn to ice' trick? Just tell the front desk, and they'll arrange it perfectly.
This was my last trip of 2020. Despite the year being less than ideal, luckily I still managed to visit 13 cities, from Sanya in May to Harbin in December, from the south to the north of our country. I'm grateful to the prosperity of our great nation for this fortune.
In 2021, I will continue on the road with a richer version of myself. See you on the road!
*When coming from a place with a large temperature difference, be sure to add extra clothes at the airport before going outside.
*The airport is about 30-40 minutes from the city center. Traffic jams during peak hours.
*Carry hand warmers; preferably those lasting 12 hours.
*Phones may shut down automatically in extreme cold. Attach a hand warmer to the back of the phone, and keep it in your pocket when not in use.
*Cameras seem quite cold-resistant. At -18°C, a single battery for my DSLR lasted most of a day without issue.
Sony A7RM3 + 16-35 f4, 50 f1.8
Sony RX100M7
Travel log directory:
1. Scenic spots
2. Walk along the Songhua River
3. Check-in at Sophia Square
4. Eat ice cream on Central Street
5. Stroll on Binzhou Railway Bridge
6. Close encounter with tigers at Siberian Tiger Park
7. Chinese Baroque style in Old Daowai
8. Watch (participate in) the Ice Bucket Challenge
9. Snow Expo large snow sculptures
10. Ice and Snow World must be the finale
11. Food section
12. Northeastern specialty iron pot stew
13. Hotpot in a snow house
14. Don't miss authentic river seafood
15. Northeastern skewers are a must
16. Must-eat specialties
17. Comfortable accommodation is important
18. Harbin Shangri-La Hotel
19. Harbin Songbei Shangri-La Hotel
20. Travel tips
21. Photography equipment
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