My Last Trip of 2020: A Foolproof Guide to Harbin, Mohe, and Snow Town

For my last trip of 2020, I chose Northeast China, bravely heading to the country's northernmost point to brave the cold and check in. The snowy white world was truly, incredibly beautiful~ This leg covered Harbin, Mohe, Yabuli, and Snow Town, spanning 11 days.

Accommodation in Harbin: I chose a place near Central Street, around the shopping area. Convenient for picking up any supplies needed, and transportation is easy, though prices are a bit high.

Transportation in Harbin: You can scan QR codes in Alipay for buses and subways—just link your account in advance. Taxis aren't expensive either. One thing to note: traffic in Harbin is really congested! If you need to catch a train or flight, leave early and avoid rush hours, or you'll be stuck in traffic until you go crazy.

Weather in Harbin: I arrived on the evening of November 28 and left around noon on December 9. Temperatures ranged from -5°C to -20°C. It’s relatively warm when the sun is out, but daylight hours are short, and your ears and nose can freeze. Keeping warm is really important—be careful not to get frostbite! Wear a hat that covers your ears, and if you're sensitive to cold, bring a cotton mask. As a typical southerner, I packed a quarter of my suitcase (30-inch) with hand warmers and heated insoles. At first I worried I brought too many, but they were all used up within a week, and I had to constantly restock.

Note: The Ice and Snow World doesn't open until after December 25, so if you go too early, you won't see it. Also, sunset comes early in the Northeast; scenic spots usually close at 4:00 or 4:30 PM, so plan your time accordingly.

Harbin attractions: Saint Sophia Cathedral, Zhonghua Bar Street, Central Street (Madianer Ice Popsicles), Sun Island Scenic Area (Russian Style Town, Songhua River Sightseeing Cable Car), Northeast Tiger Forest Park, Ice and Snow World, Harbin Polarland, Shanhetun Iron Pot Stew, Laowei BBQ, Heilongjiang Provincial Museum, Site of Unit 731 of the Japanese Imperial Army, Exhibition Hall of Evidences of Crimes Committed by Unit 731 of the Japanese Imperial Army, Harbin Normal University Night Market, Qiulin Company, Yabuli Sunshine Resort Ski Resort.

Mudanjiang: Yaxue Relay Station, Big Bald Peak, Ten-mile Gallery, Erlong Film Base, Weihu Village, Snowmobiles, China Snow Town, Dream Home, Xueyun Avenue, Snow Town National Forest Park, Snow Town Bangchui Mountain Observation Deck, Northeast Errenzhuan, Northeast Yangko Dance, Bonfire Party.

Mohe: Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns, First Bay of the Longjiang River, China's Northernmost Point, No. 63 Bridge, White Birch Forest, Arctic Village, Shenzhou Arctic Stele, Northernmost Shazhou Island, Northernmost Post Office, Northernmost Outpost, Xuanwu Square, Rooster's Comb, Beihong Village, Christmas Village, China-Russia Border, Ewenki Reindeer Park, Christmas Village Ski Resort, Arctic Ice and Snow Park, May 6 Fire Memorial Museum, Horse-drawn Sled, Splashing Water into Ice.

DAY1: Guangzhou – Harbin

DAY2: Harbin

DAY3: Harbin – Mohe

DAY4-5: Mohe

DAY6: Mohe – Harbin

DAY7: Harbin

DAY8: Harbin – Yabuli

DAY9: Yabuli – Yaxue Relay Station – Snow Town

DAY10: Snow Town – Harbin

DAY11: Harbin

DAY12: Harbin – Beijing

DAY1: Guangzhou – Harbin

I chose a 3 PM flight, so I didn't have to get up early or stay up late—perfect for someone like me with an old person's sleep schedule. There was a one-hour stopover at Wutaishan Airport, so I arrived in Harbin at 9 PM. There's an airport bus that goes directly to Central Street for 20 yuan, or you can take a taxi for about 80-90 yuan.

I have to say, Northeasterners are so warm-hearted! (Or maybe I looked lost?) I was just standing there looking at a map, and a security guard came up and asked if I needed directions. Such a kind welcome right outside the airport—the weather was cold, but my heart felt warm. Big thumbs up!

DAY2: Harbin

Saint Sophia Cathedral – Zhonghua Bar Street – Central Street (Madianer Ice Popsicles)

Woke up naturally, looked out the window at the snowy white world, and felt a sense of peaceful and quiet time—perfect for just daydreaming.

First stop was lunch: I chose a Korean BBQ place, which was nice, and the staff were very attentive.

After a full meal, I headed to Saint Sophia Cathedral. I arrived around 2 PM, but there happened to be a concert inside, and the cathedral only opens for visits from 9:00-11:00 AM, so I couldn't go in. I just took photos outside. There are many unique buildings in this area, so it's nice to just wander around. However, being outside for a long time is really cold, so I had to duck into a mall every now and then to warm up.

After taking enough photos of the cathedral, I went to Bar Street. Maybe because it's off-season, and the year was special, the whole street was very deserted—hardly any people, and most shops were closed. Only a few stalls selling sweet potatoes and sugar-coated hawthorns were open. The roasted sweet potatoes were especially tempting in the cold, so I couldn't resist—they were delicious!

Daylight is short, so it gets dark around 4-5 PM. I went back to Central Street for dinner. The night view was beautiful, but it was too cold at night. Despite that, the Madianer ice popsicles were really tasty!

DAY3: Harbin – Mohe (overnight on train)

Saint Sophia Cathedral – Sun Island Scenic Area (Russian Style Town, Songhua River) – Central Street – Train Station

Because I still wanted to see the inside of the cathedral, I got up early this day (well, not that early—I left at 9:30 AM). But I forgot it was Monday, and it's closed on Mondays. Frustrating. I missed it again.

I found a restaurant nearby for lunch, then went to Sun Island. I didn't realize that Ice and Snow World, Harbin Polarland, Sun Island, Songhua River, and the Northeast Tiger Forest Park are all close to each other—you can easily visit them together.

Ice and Snow World wasn't open yet, so I just took a photo at the entrance and left.

As you enter Sun Island, you pass by the Polarland. If interested, you can go in. I've been to the Zhuhai Hengqin Ocean Kingdom several times, so I skipped it.

At Sun Island, I hired a driver to take me around the island for about 30 minutes, costing 30 yuan. If you have time and don't mind the cold, it's nice to walk—probably 2 hours to circle it.

The driver said that before New Year's, any paid scenic spot in Harbin isn't worth visiting. And it really seemed that way. But who knows when I'll come again, so it's okay.

Inside Sun Island, there's a Russian Style Town—it's small, mostly visited by tour groups, so a bit crowded. Next to the town, there's a piano sculpture that looked especially artistic under the dappled tree shadows. The driver told me its story and meaning—interesting.

A little further from the sculpture is the Songhua River cable car.

The buildings in the area are all mock-Russian style. The driver said they were originally vacation homes that ordinary people couldn't rent. In the past, they crazily demolished all Russian-style buildings, thinking they could erase all traces of Russia. Now they're frantically rebuilding and replicating Tsarist-era buildings—it's a bit funny. Maybe it's not appropriate to talk about this here, so let's move on.

Around 5 PM, I went back to Central Street to find food, then got my luggage from the hotel and headed to the train station. Central Street is only about 2 km from Harbin Station, so it's close.

The train from Harbin to Mohe takes about 18 hours on a green train. It was my first time sleeping on a hard sleeper, and it was quite an experience. I thought it would be tough, but surprisingly it was comfortable (maybe my expectations were too low?). The people in my compartment were super nice—I listened to them talk about their experiences and lives all night. Interesting! This is the charm of travel, I guess.

DAY4: Mohe

Mohe Station – Christmas Ski Resort – Christmas Village – Arctic Ice and Snow Park – Arctic Village (stay overnight in Arctic Village)

Although it wasn't too hard, I have trouble sleeping in new beds, so I barely slept and had a headache. But when I saw the dawn over the Greater Khingan Range through the train window, everything was worth it. The peaceful and serene scene, the smoke rising from village chimneys, and my own calm and light mood—I hadn't felt that in a long time. I loved that wake-up call.

I arrived in Mohe a little after noon and met four other travelers to share a chartered car with. They turned out to be the most precious travel companions I've met since Tibet! When you meet people who click like that on a shared ride, the whole journey is super fun. We laughed so hard every day our faces hurt! It was too fun!! Ha ha ha ha!

Also, the driver guide we got this time was so responsible and thoughtful! He even prepared snow boots, parkas, gloves, hand warmers, and other cold-weather gear for us in advance. He said we'd never been to such extreme cold and worried we might underestimate it and not enjoy ourselves. He's the best and most considerate driver guide I've ever had. Big thumbs up! (If you need his contact, feel free to message me—I'm not a promoter, I swear!)

After gathering, we had lunch and then went to the Christmas Ski Resort. It was my first time at a ski resort in over 20 years. I didn't hire an instructor; just standing up was a huge challenge. I fell like an idiot. Just happy to participate.

After skiing, we went to Christmas Village. Taking a photo with Santa Claus is a must-do there. He must be so tired, smiling for photos with a constant stream of tourists.

Leaving Santa's house and crossing a bridge leads to the Arctic Ice and Snow Park. There were some amusement facilities there. The ice bumper cars I most wanted to try were out of order that day, which was disappointing. But we still had a blast that evening.

When I saw the bridge with its lights and atmosphere, I thought it would be perfect for some spooky colors. So I asked a friend to have the driver guide take a video.

After dinner, we ate frozen pears, frozen persimmons, and frozen oranges at the guesthouse. As we ate, we started acting silly again—maybe those frozen pears were a bit intoxicating!

DAY5: Mohe

Arctic Village – Heilongjiang Bay – Horse-drawn Sled around the village – Rooster's Comb – Xuanwu Square – Northernmost Post Office – Arctic Outpost – Ewenki Reindeer Park – White Birch Forest – Shenlongwan Scenic Area – Beihong Village (stay overnight in Beihong Village)

This morning, I woke up at 5:30 AM—all because of time zone issues. I set my alarm for 6:30, but maybe because I was at the border, my phone automatically switched to Russian time. No wonder it was pitch black outside with no one around. Sigh.

One of my teammates couldn't get out of bed, so our planned 7:20 departure was delayed to 8:00. But thanks to that extra time, I could take some photos of the village in the quiet morning—worth it. You could say I gained something from the loss.

After breakfast, we filled our thermoses with hot water and went to the Songhua River to play the water-splitting-into-ice trick. It was so rare! With the warm morning sun, it was heartbreakingly beautiful! I'll never forget this day! This must be the beauty of life.

I loved the light so much! I enthusiastically took photos for my travel mates.

An auntie also wanted to join in!

After the ice-splashing, we returned to the guesthouse to pack up and then experienced an old-fashioned mode of transport—horse-drawn sled around the village. It cost 100 yuan per person. Lying on the wooden sled covered with a big red quilt, it suddenly felt so authentic—interesting.

Lying on the sled, taking in the panoramic view of the village—so pleasant.

After the sled ride, we walked back passing a bridge (I forget the name). We went down to the frozen river surface and took all kinds of silly photos. Since one of our teammates was an older auntie with health issues, we were a bit short on people, so we grabbed two passersby to join us—thanks for their cooperation!

Then walking back through the village, we passed Xuanwu Square and Rooster's Comb, taking photos for social media.

On the way to lunch, we passed the Northernmost Post Office. After lunch, we checked in at the Northernmost Outpost.

Then we drove to the reindeer park. If you can't go to Nara to see deer, this is a good substitute. The deer here are gentle and cute, but when they chase you, it's still scary—maybe I'm just timid.

We arrived at the White Birch Forest just before sunset and hurried up the hill to catch the sunset glow.

After coming down from the hill via a wild trail, we reached the viewing deck at Shenlongwan Scenic Area. The snow was deep and the path slippery—every step required caution.

After taking enough photos, the sun had set, and it got even colder. We returned the same way—the road was very quiet.

We drove to Beihong Village for dinner and stayed overnight there.

The driver guide lent us flowery cotton-padded jackets to put on for fun—ha ha ha, we started another round of posing and acting silly. It was eye-straining!

This day was another day of unrestrained fun!

(Just a little video snippet—we still want to save face... covering faces.jpg)

The driver guide treated us to blueberry juice and popsicles—yummy!

DAY6: Mohe – Harbin (overnight on train)

Beihong Village – Beihong Outpost – China's Northernmost Point – First Bay of Longjiang River – Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns – May 6 Fire Memorial Museum of Greater Khingan Range – Mohe Station

Woke up to a cloudy sky; soon it started snowing. A southerner's joy, of course, means taking the chance to play in the snow!

Our first stop was Beihong Outpost. Across the river was Russia—so close yet so far.

After checking in, we continued to the next stop. On the road, we saw a patrol car—it looked so cool.

China's Northernmost Point and First Bay of Longjiang River are in the same scenic area. The northernmost point was quite crowded, but everyone lined up nicely to take photos. Good civility!

After visiting the northernmost point, we took a shuttle to First Bay of Longjiang River. We hiked up to the observation deck—the wooden boardwalk was a bit slippery, so be careful.

We were hungry after the hike and had lunch inside the scenic area. Then we headed to Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns, which was a bit far. The driver guide was efficient and got us there before sunset, with just a bit of afterglow left.

After watching the sunset, it was time to head to the county. Our last stop was the May 6 Fire Memorial Museum. The museum was too heavy; I didn't take any photos.

After the museum, we went to Mohe Train Station. Last day in Mohe, and still happy.

Everything I experienced in Mohe was so beautiful!

DAY7: Harbin (arrive in the afternoon)

Shanhetun Iron Pot Stew – Laowei BBQ

I arrived back in Harbin around 2 PM. That day, I used food to wash away the fatigue of the night journey. I was with friends I met in Mohe.

We chose the top-rated Shanhetun Iron Pot Stew. The portions were huge—ordering two pots for four people was a mistake. We were all stuffed and couldn't finish. Northeastern cuisine is really generous.

After eating, we wandered around nearby. Around 8 PM, we went to Laowei BBQ, also top-rated. It was really tasty and fairly priced. Four of us, over 200 yuan, still couldn't finish. A bit wasteful.

DAY8: Harbin – Yabuli Sunshine Resort Ski Resort

First, a suggestion:

Don't join a tour group (I mean big bus tour groups)! Important things said three times! If you're reading a guide, you probably don't want to join a group. Hostels usually have info about car rentals. Just call and ask. If not, contact drivers on ride-hailing apps and negotiate the price. I don't recommend self-driving—it's dangerous.

When you join a group, some travel agencies or guides will scare you: 'The roads are icy and dangerous, accidents happen.' / 'Even locals join tours—how can you out-of-towners drive alone?' / 'The scenic spots don't serve individual tourists; you can't buy tickets on your own.' / 'Group tickets have discounts; buying on your own is more expensive' (actually group tickets are more expensive!). All lies. Before payment, they promise no shopping, pure fun—but it's all scams. They collect money and then dump you on a guide, mixing all kinds of individual travelers into one group, regardless of what price you paid. The tour guide denies all promises from the agency and has his own agenda. Complaints get brushed off. So if you really want a group, choose one with just a few people in a private car. For big bus tours, only book through large platforms (like Ctrip—I'm not a promoter; I complained, and they responded actively and quickly). At least someone will listen to your complaint.

But think the payment is the end? On the bus, the guide will pressure you into paying for a bunch of flashy but worthless entertainment. If you don't pay, they get upset and nag you all the way, giving you dirty looks. When they take the paying people to play, those who didn't pay are left on the bus (no heat—freezing) until everyone comes back. Disgusting.

So I seriously and kindly advise: Don't join a group. Most of those paid activities are rip-offs and overpriced. Not worth it!

I was too lazy to plan, thinking just three days, and ended up with a mess.

So I learned my lesson and organized a three-day private car route, writing this travelogue for reference.

Now, back to the trip.

We had to get up early and leave before 7:30 AM (to avoid Harbin's morning rush). The drive took a little over three hours to reach Yabuli Ski Resort. There's also a high-speed rail option, but I think it's unnecessary because from the Yabuli station, you still need a half-hour taxi to the resort. So just charter a car—it takes about the same time and you can nap on the way.

We arrived around noon, had lunch, and spent the whole afternoon skiing. When I went, the ski resort was used as a training ground for athletes in the morning, so it wasn't open to the public. Not sure if it's still the same; if you want to ski in the morning, call first to check.

I think a three-hour pass is enough—it's really tiring! At first, without an instructor, it was boring—I couldn't even stand up. So I hired an instructor (about 280 yuan per person for two hours, I forget). I learned the basics in about half an hour, and it was worth it! Skiing is super fun! Now I'm addicted! Ha ha! So if you think you'll need an instructor, hire one when you buy your ticket—instructors have priority and can help cut lines for rentals and returns, saving time so you can ski longer.

After skiing, we had dinner and went back to the hotel.

DAY9: Yabuli – Yaxue Relay Station – Snow Town

Yaxue Relay Station: Ten-mile Gallery, Big Bald Peak, Erlong Film Base, Weihu Village, Snowmobiles

China Snow Town: Snow Town Old Village, Dream Home, Xueyun Avenue, Snow Town National Forest Park, Snow Town Bangchui Mountain Observation Deck, Northeast Errenzhuan, Northeast Yangko Dance, Bonfire Party

It's not far from Yabuli to Yaxue Relay Station—about an hour's drive. So big bus groups don't need to leave at dawn, but if you want to avoid crowds, you can. If you want to sleep in, leaving at 8-9 AM is fine.

Ten-mile Gallery, Big Bald Peak, Erlong Film Base, Weihu Village, Snowmobiles, etc.—these are all at Yaxue Relay Station.

I only played snowmobiles and a spinning snow ride. Snowmobiles looked cool, but the actual experience was just 'meh.' You can decide if you want to do it—I neither recommend nor oppose; it depends on your needs. Everyone has different travel expectations.

The scenery at the top was nice, but the wind was fierce and it was snowing—I was freezing!

The reason I took the snowmobile was to get to the top; walking there would have frozen me halfway.

Compared to snowmobiles, I think off-road vehicles offer a better experience.

What I found interesting was the hike through the forest—though cold, it felt like real travel, and the scenery was pretty.

After finishing at Yaxue Relay Station, we had lunch and headed to Snow Town.

Snow Town Old Village is a separate paid scenic spot. That's the original Snow Town (if you want to go there, go there first, then to the current Snow Town, so you don't have to go back).

The Snow Town we go to now is basically a commercial pedestrian street built for tourists. Its only feature: it snows there. And that's it.

I think the Northeast Errenzhuan show is worth buying a ticket for—it was entertaining. I recommend the 4 PM show. Before going in, take photos in daylight; after the show, it'll be dark, and you can go up to the observation deck for night views. The Dream Home ticket allows two entries, so I went back the next morning to take morning shots.

The evening activities in Snow Town are quite fun—provided you're interested and open-minded. I'm like that, so I enjoyed them fully.

At 7 PM sharp, there's the Northeast Yangko dance parade. You can join in and dance with them—don't be shy, just have fun! After the parade, they'll lead you to the bonfire party if you want to join.

The bonfire party was super lively—no wonder they call it 'wild rave'—it was awesome!

For accommodation, if you want to soak in hot springs, there's a hot spring hotel in Snow Town, but it's indoor spring pools, not outdoor ones. Also, it's about a half-hour walk from the main Snow Town area. If you have a private car, you can arrange pickup, since outside vehicles aren't allowed inside. If you're like me and don't want the hassle, just stay inside Snow Town.

One last complaint: I think many things on the Snow Town route are overpriced, but the most ridiculous is the 'splash water into ice' activity—50 yuan per time! Seriously? You can just use a large-mouth thermos, boil water, and do it yourself for free.

DAY10: Snow Town – Harbin

This day I could sleep in! You could get up early for morning scenery or sleep late.

Morning streets of Snow Town

Morning Dream Home

If you're as addicted to skiing as I am, you could arrange another session in the afternoon, then return to Harbin.

On the way back, the ice hangings were beautiful.

Important: Either leave after lunch or wait until 4-5 PM to avoid rush hour, otherwise traffic jams will make you question life. Also, book all tickets and accommodation in advance.

DAY11: Harbin

Saint Sophia Cathedral – Heilongjiang Provincial Museum – Site of Unit 731 + Exhibition Hall of Evidences – Harbin Normal University Night Market

Stubborn as I am, I still couldn't give up. On my third attempt, I finally got in! No regrets.

The cathedral was smaller inside than I imagined, and the murals were mostly gone. The dilapidation and decay are records of history. When visiting historical sites, understanding their history and significance is much more important than just looking at the decoration. If you just glance around, you miss the point.

The Heilongjiang Provincial Museum has fewer artifacts than other provincial museums; you can finish in about an hour. But to truly understand a place, start with its museum—so it's worth a visit.

The main focus of the day was the Site of Unit 731 of the Japanese Imperial Army.

This is where the infamous Unit 731 committed their atrocities, a hell on earth like Auschwitz. It represents a very painful history, yet it's gradually disappearing from public view. I felt distressed that it wasn't even listed among Harbin's top attractions.

I'm not trying to stir up hatred or preach. I just feel that some things, some history, as Chinese people, must not be forgotten. Harbin is not only about ice and snow—it also has history. I hope more people will pay attention to this place, which is not a 'scenic spot' in the usual sense but far surpasses any scenic spot in significance. This is the main reason I wrote this Harbin travelogue: to remember history and never forget national shame.

I choked up many times in the exhibition hall. But at the final section, when the video played a woman accusing the Japanese army of taking her father, tears just fell involuntarily. It was totally unexpected. I spent over three hours there, reading every word and every picture carefully, until the staff told me they were about to close, and I still had a small part left to see. If I hadn't bought tickets to leave the next day, I would have come back. That visit was more impactful than reading many history books and reports.

Finally, I soothed my heavy heart with food (ugh, so melodramatic...). I went to the Harbin Normal University Night Market, known only to locals.

Near a university, there's always good food. I tried the top-rated items—yummy!

Oh, and across the street from the night market is a Qiulin Company, where the red sausages are the most authentic. So don't be fooled by the overpriced ones on Central Street! I also accidentally bought black Kvass—it was quite tasty.

DAY12: Harbin – Beijing

Central Street – Harbin West Station

After lunch, I went to Harbin West Station to move on to the capital. Goodbye, Harbin! Hope to meet again.

Harbin ends here. 2020 also ends. Wishing everyone a good 2021.

Writing and organizing this took effort. If you enjoyed my record, please give it a like before leaving.

Travelogue Directory:

1. Overview

2. Places visited in 12 days

3. Itinerary record

4. Detailed itinerary

5. Conclusion

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