Snow Town in Northeast China丨A Cross-Season Exploration from Northeast Snowscapes to Sanya Seascapes in November 2020

Wandering through a tranquil snowfield, accompanied by drifting snowflakes, my hair tips turned white under the dusk light, shimmering like crystals.

Beneath the blue sky, the ice-covered city could not conceal its solitary and independent beauty.

Stepping across a snowfield left a trail of footprints.

Traveling thousands of miles to attend a feast of ice and snow,

Heading to that place where dusk falls at 3:30 PM.

- Memories of those days in Northeast China -

▲ A one-minute short video about this trip ▲

「Seeking a Peaceful Snowy Land」

Chasing a sunset glow, liberating myself on the brilliant ice field.

The world is so vast that one suitcase cannot hold it all, just like the lyrics say: The suitcase cannot hold all the distant places I want to go. A 24-inch suitcase, with one down jacket taking up half the space, I had to press it down again and again.

Departing from Chengdu, a distance of over 3,000 kilometers, looking down at the land beneath my feet, my restless heart kept stirring.

Heilongjiang, near Russia, features architectural styles with European elements, an exotic aura rushing toward me.

In Harbin's urban area, there is a typical representative of Byzantine architecture, the largest existing Eastern Orthodox church in the former Russian Far East—Saint Sophia Cathedral, an iconic building of Harbin.

A snowfall, the heaviest in 50 years, caused some inconvenience to this city and even the entire Northeast, but it also bestowed a beautiful picture.

Faint rays of light pierced through the darkness, making the church seem even more peaceful and serene.

One day in my childhood, a rare snowfall occurred in Chengdu. It was fleeting, the snow on the rooftops melted quickly. Before I could fully experience the joy of snow, it faded from my sight. So, since childhood, I have been filled with longing and anticipation for snow.

With a camera in hand, wandering through the city whether by night or day is something we love to do. The streetlights at this moment always illuminate the sea of stars in your heart.

The next day, we arrived at Yangmingtan Bridge. Beneath it lies the vast Songhua River, not yet frozen. Perhaps the flowing water also wants to journey far to see the sea.

When the drone flew high, looking at Yangmingtan Bridge on the screen, this world rendered by snow was what winter should truly look like.

Compared to winter in Chengdu, this place is purer, simpler, and more straightforward. Winter in Chengdu, besides the 360-degree pervasive cold, lacks any snow.

Speaking of the cold in Northeast China, temperatures of minus ten-something degrees are not that hard to bear. With the same clothing, the cold in Chengdu makes you wonder if something is wrong.

Southern people's obsession with snow might be due to the purity of snowflakes, or the attraction of tumbling in soft, fine snow, or the love for snowmen of any shape. In short, there is so much here that can satisfy fantasies about snow.

Everyone says time flies fast, but here it really feels rushed. The same sunrise at 7-something AM, the same lunchtime at 12 o'clock. But the difference is that the dusk at 3:30 PM is truly beautiful.

You have seen many sunsets and many snowy worlds, perhaps brilliant and magnificent, perhaps vast and bold. But you may rarely have seen the sunset in Harbin in winter. The city covered in white loses much of its colorful splendor, but gains a touch of peaceful and melodious comfort.

The Harbin Grand Theater is a building with elegant design language. Through a deliberate "gap," which is probably the best viewing platform.

Every grand theater has its unique charm, whether in its shape or environment.

And at dusk in Harbin, it complements the snow beautifully.

I once saw a marketing joke: How to sell a comb to a monk? What? Monks don't have hair, so how could they use it? The best answer: let the monk bless it and sell it to tourists.

And in Harbin, what kind of operation is eating popsicles in the freezing snow? Nothing special; it's just a snack.

The story of the Madier popsicle is: There is no off-season market, only off-season thinking. Eating popsicles under the scorching sun is perfectly normal. But in the freezing snow, people in down jackets, breathing steam, stomping their feet, still eat Madier popsicles—that proves how "touching" it is.

If you go to Harbin without trying a Madier popsicle, it's like going to Beijing without visiting the Great Wall and the Forbidden City—people would say you went for nothing. This small popsicle, which has been popular for over a century and draws queues whether in blazing summer or freezing winter, has almost become a symbol of Harbin.

Where there are people, there is the world; where there is snow, there must be skiing. Whether professional or not, trying it is essential.

This is Yabuli Ski Resort, currently the largest ski resort in China and the largest comprehensive snow training center in the country.

Sports activities are the best way to release gloom. Like skiing—either smoothly sliding down from heights or losing control and falling—whether you shout in exhilaration or laugh at your embarrassment, it all helps release hidden pent-up emotions.

In Erlang River Forest Farm, ice flowers covered the trees. The wind swayed the treetops, sunlight shining on the scattered drifting snowflakes.

A world of white, with snow knee-deep. Either rolling in the snow or diving face-first into it, the soft and delicate touch against the skin was like a spring mattress, making one drowsy and fascinated.

Trekking through the snow left a trail of footprints, evidence that I had been here.

In my fallen sunglasses, reflected the blue sky, the forest, and myself, like the scenery in my eyes, telling its story to the world.

Looking into the distance, there was a large forest. Yes, Snow Town was originally called Shuangfeng Forest Farm. Snow Town has a long snow season and frequent snowfall, with the saying "No three sunny days in a row."

With more rain in summer and more snow in winter, the snow cover lasts for seven to eight months. From October to May each year, snow accumulates continuously, with an average annual snow depth of 2 meters. The snow volume is among the highest in China, and the snow quality is good with high viscosity, earning it the reputation of "China's Snow Town."

Arriving at Snow Town, there were many people, decorated with lanterns and streamers as if it were Chinese New Year. Walking along Snow Rhyme Street, the small wooden houses on both sides had a unique style.

It's said that eating meat in Snow Town means you're rich. We're not rich, but we pretended to be "rich" once and ordered a whole roasted lamb. It was satisfying but hurt the wallet.

Under the lights, a warm fairy-tale scene appeared before our eyes.

In Northeast China, there is a fruit called frozen pear. It's sweet and delicious. You need to leave it for a while to soften before eating. Don't ask me why; if you want to risk breaking your teeth, eat it directly...

Besides frozen pears, other fruits are also frozen. That's why tanghulu (candied fruit) here is authentic—without freezing, where would the ice come from, right?

Morning at Snow Town, with misty cooking smoke, was as pure as the look in my childhood eyes.

Before leaving, I made two mini snowmen on the roof as souvenirs.

Changbai Mountain's Tianchi Lake (Heavenly Lake) is a boundary lake between China and North Korea, with North Korean territory across the lake.

Above Tianchi, drifting clouds and mist change unpredictably—sometimes misty and drizzly, "not a single trace of the vast ocean visible"; sometimes the clouds clear and the sky brightens, presenting a wonderful Tianchi view described as "The water glows bright in sunny day; the mountains look dim in rain."

People who see Tianchi on their first visit to Changbai Mountain can be called lucky without exaggeration. Due to ever-changing weather, the opening of Tianchi depends on fortune, and we were among the lucky ones—the sky was cloudless.

Minus 25 degrees Celsius, with a fierce wind blowing endlessly. Even dressed like a bear, I could hardly withstand the biting cold, but I knew we were very fortunate and felt satisfied.

Of course, luck is just occasional; a leisurely attitude is what truly deserves savoring.

No matter where or when, having a leisurely heart is like owning the whole world. Even in freezing cold, it becomes an enjoyment.

In the midst of ice and snow, there was a flowing river unaffected by the weather, not freezing, and you could even see steam rising from the lake surface. This created another unique activity: winter rafting.

A forty-to-fifty-minute rafting trip, the spinning kayak wouldn't stop—sometimes hitting the bank, sometimes running aground.

Putting down the paddle, we sang "By Lake Baikal" in the wilderness. The song and the mood at that moment lingered on that small boat, drifting away with the river.

Iron trees bloom with silver flowers, snow stains hair like frost; fireworks easily chill against a pretty face. The sunrise at Rime Island is beyond words. Bringing a touch of morning glow, reflecting each crystal of ice.

Cold air condenses into ice beads, melting in sunlight—this is called rime in the Qilu region. Records of rime exist as early as the Northern and Southern Dynasties. The formation of rime requires very low temperatures and sufficient water vapor; it's rare to have both contradictory natural conditions simultaneously.

Willows on the cold river, jade-like trees with silver blossoms. The river breeze makes silver strands shimmer, the world turning golden—like a fairyland forgotten by the world.

「After Harsh Winter Comes Spring」

From north to south, winter passes and spring arrives.

Facing the sea, with spring blossoms—just one day apart, it was spring.

A moment ago, I was in a cotton coat and heavy jacket; the next, in a T-shirt and shorts. After experiencing extreme cold, how could I not go to Sanya to warm up? Sunshine, beach, and waves felt like another world.

At the same time, thanks to Manager Guan from Sanya for the generous hospitality—not only seafood to our heart's content but also authentic hotpot.

After Sanya, we also received a warm invitation from friends in Guangzhou.

From Beijing Road to the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, from Yuexiu Mountain to Shamian Street—there is so much to say about this city.

Compared to Chengdu's reputation as a food capital, Guangzhou is no less. Starting from morning dim sum at a tea restaurant, there were snacks and delicacies all the way—eating, eating, eating...

Old shops by the roadside that have been passed down for many years may not be conspicuous, but the taste over the years remains the same, still reminiscent of childhood memories, carrying a sentiment of craftsmanship inheritance.

All in all, thank you for traveling with us, grateful for our encounters. And now, I look forward even more to reuniting with friends next time.

I am Hua Kui. Light up a Hua Zi (cigarette), together ignite the still youthful years. Wish everyone all the best!