A Southerner's First Ice City Trip: A Mix of Luck and Pitfalls Under Snow and Ice!
For someone born and raised in the south, seeing heavy snowfall in the north is probably the biggest obsession. That year in Shenyang, it was minus 20 degrees Celsius but there was no snow, which left me disappointed for a long time. Thanks to the Shandong Airlines magic carpet, I finally checked in at the ice city of Harbin at the end of the magical 2020. You have to go to Snow Village to know whether it's good or bad; skiing looks cool, but you won't know it's not easy until you get on the sled; eat ice pops on Central Street, have a red sausage; Northeast Errenzhuan is like this; sleep on a Northeast big kang, eat a iron pot stewed big fish! Harbin five days and four nights, let's go!
1. Group tour or independent travel?
Most people start from Harbin to go to Snow Village. There are direct buses from Harbin to Snow Village. You can check the "Snow Village" official account for details, but it generally takes most of a day. The advantage of a group tour is saving travel time, but it is strongly recommended not to join low-price tours. The group I joined arrived at Snow Village at around 5:00 PM, and the accommodation was not inside Snow Village. We only stayed there for 2.5 hours and didn't see the daytime scenery (you get what you pay for).
2. Clothing preparation: Be sure to cover all exposed parts of your body! If you wrap up tightly, you won't feel cold! A hat is essential! A scarf is essential! (Can wrap around your face if needed); Gloves are essential! (Recommend buying ones that allow you to use your phone); Down jacket should be long; Shoes should be non-slip and fleece-lined, it's recommended to buy snow boots directly; Bring hand warmers just in case, your phone might need them.
3. Accommodation: Overall, accommodation in Snow Village can't compare with that in the city. Lower your expectations; it's mainly big kang-style! Accommodation in Harbin city has quite a wide range of choices.
4. Photography equipment: My Nikon D750 SLR equipment was surprisingly freeze-resistant. One battery lasted as long as in the south, about 3 days. My phone: RedMi K30 Pro, which I had only owned for a month, lasted a whole day without needing hand warmers. My husband's Mi 9, which he had used for over a year, shut down quickly after being taken out for half an hour. Power bank: Zendure with large capacity 2.7W. It couldn't charge outdoors, but revived immediately once inside the car.
5. Other considerations: Drink more water, drink more water. Although it sounds cliché, the north is relatively dry due to indoor heating. Southerners often find it hard to adapt and may get a sore throat leading to other issues. Place a basin of water by the bed when sleeping, and drink more water on the road!
This trip to Harbin can be said to have joined a local low-price local tour. The group fee plus optional expenses was about 1500 yuan, including 4 nights' accommodation and 4 days of group tours. It was just so-so. For the first time, it was like seeing the sights. If I go again, I would probably do independent travel the whole way.
Group tour included: Windmill Snowy Mountain (recommended), Snow Village Dreamland (average), Russian Home Visit (not recommended), Yabuli Hot Spring (big pitfall, huge thunder), Yabuli Ski Resort (recommended).
D1 (Dec 2): Shandong Airlines SC8793 Xiamen-Harbin, picked up by the group upon arrival, checked into Harbin Shui Yi City Hotel (West Railway Station Branch), dinner at [Pianlianzi Premium BBQ (Haxi Branch)].
D2 (Dec 3): Depart for Snow Village, long drive. After lunch, first go to the optional attraction [Windmill Snowy Mountain]. First visit the Ten Mile Gallery scenic area, then head to Snow Village. Arrived at Snow Village at 5:30 PM, already dark. Optional attraction [Snow Village Dreamland]. Dinner on our own, chose [Snow Village Xu Liang BBQ]. Checked into [Yu Xue Shan Zhuang].
D3 (Dec 4): Head to [Windmill Snowy Mountain] scenic area again. After lunch, enjoy [Russian Home Visit] (not recommended). In the afternoon, go to [Yabuli Hot Spring] (not recommended).
D4 (Dec 5): Go to [Yabuli Ski Resort]. In the afternoon, shopping mall. In the evening, go to [Central Street] on our own. Midnight snack [Jiu Zhuan Xiao Mo].
D5 (Dec 6): Shopping mall itinerary. Arrived at [St. Sophia Cathedral] at 4:30 PM. Left the group to go to [Riverside Park] on our own. Dinner at [Shan He Tun]. Stroll around [Central Street]. Checked into [Qiuguo Hotel (Central Street Sophia Cathedral Branch)].
D6 (Dec 7): Return flight on Shandong Airlines Magic Carpet SC8794 Harbin-Xiamen.
Pitfalls or recommendations, let me tell you one by one!
※ Is Snow Village in the ice and snow worth it?
A southerner's obsession is to see snow. On my first trip to Harbin, I chose to go to Snow Village, a place known for both its popularity and bad reviews. Snow Village Tourist Scenic Area is located at the intersection of Zhangguangcai Ridge and Laoye Ridge in the Changbai Mountains. Due to the frequent convergence of cold air from Lake Baikal and warm, moist air from the Sea of Japan, as well as the microclimate of high mountains and dense forests, it creates a peculiar microclimate where "summer has no three sunny days, winter snow lingers in the woods." Snow begins in October and lasts until April of the following year, with a snow season of up to 7 months and snow depths reaching about 2 meters. The snow takes on various shapes, creating a fairy-tale world, making it a unique and irreplaceable tourist attraction in the world. Every winter is the peak season here, and visiting Snow Village to see the beautiful scenery is a dream for countless people.
The journey from Harbin to Snow Village is long. It is recommended to plan ahead. There are direct tourist buses, one way about 4.5 hours. Of course, it's easier to choose a group tour. But don't join a low-price group. For example, I arrived at Snow Village at 5:30 PM, it was dark, and the accommodation wasn't inside Snow Village, so I couldn't see the daytime scenery of Snow Village at all. This was probably the biggest regret of this trip.
In the Northeast, it gets dark early, around 4 PM. By the time we arrived at Snow Village at 5 PM, the red lanterns were already lit, giving a warm feeling. The ticket for Snow Village is 120 yuan per person, including shuttle bus. In principle, there is no set stay time. If you want to experience the Snow Village atmosphere, you can also choose to stay overnight in a homestay inside.
After getting off the shuttle bus, there is a large square, which is also where the bonfire party is held every night. Further ahead is the iconic landmark of Snow Village, the four characters "中国雪乡" (China Snow Village). This is also a photo spot for tourists. Snow Village mainly has two streets. Due to the group tour, I didn't stay long and just took a quick look.
The houses in Snow Village are all single-story bungalows, looking neat and uniform. Each roof is covered with a thick layer of snow, like a fairy tale world.
There are street vendors on both sides of the street, selling Northeast specialty snacks such as candied hawthorns and frozen persimmons. Because of the previous "rip-off" rumors, I paid special attention this time. Every item had a clear price tag, and the prices were normal for domestic scenic spots. It seems the rectification has been effective, but it will probably take time for the "bad reputation" to fade.
Throwing boiling water to make instant ice is also a must-try experience for southerners in the ice and snow. But the temperature wasn't low enough at this time; it only produced a frost effect. In about half a month, there should be an ice effect.
Around 7 PM every evening, there is a parade called "Snow Village Welcomes Guests" on Xueyun Avenue. They welcome tourists from all over the world with typical Northeast folk customs like beating drums and gongs, and doing yangko dances. Although it's a bit tacky and rustic, it makes people feel joyful and harmonious. Many tourists join the parade to experience this earthy culture.
At 7:30 PM, a bonfire party is held in the large square. Under the host's guidance, tourists dance the rabbit dance around the bonfire, turning into a massive outdoor rave, a thousand-person Guozhuang dance at minus 20 degrees Celsius.
Snow Village is also the filming location for many movies and TV shows. In Dreamland, there is also Northeast Errenzhuan. If interested, you can buy a ticket to watch a performance.
We picked a random place on Snow Village Street for dinner. Looking at the menu, everything had a clear price tag, and even the weight of ingredients was clearly marked. Everyone ordered a plate of dumplings for 38 yuan, 500g. The portion was generous and tasty.
The next day, I bought a cup of hot pearl milk tea at the Windmill Snowy Mountain scenic area for 20 yuan. The menu also indicated a capacity of 700ml. This price is really reasonable for a scenic area. After all, it's common to pay 30 yuan for a cup of milk tea outside, let alone inside a scenic spot.
Perhaps Snow Village still has many shortcomings, but based on my two-day experience, the prices were clearly marked and within reasonable range, and they thoughtfully indicated the weight. This is something missing in most scenic areas. Of course, due to differences in conditions and service awareness, issues like hotels not providing tissues (you need to buy your own) still exist, but it's not as bad as rumored online. You can still have a pleasant time!
The development of tourism inevitably brings commercialization. Online supervision and public opinion once put Snow Village at the center of controversy. But whether it's good or bad, you only know when you come! Everyone has different expectations. A thousand tourists have a thousand different travel experiences.
※ The most worthwhile in ice and snow: Windmill Snowy Mountain
Transportation to Snow Village is not very convenient, so many people choose to join a group tour. This time, I also joined a group tour to Snow Village and unexpectedly discovered a place that independent travelers generally don't go to. It has a nice name—"Windmill Snowy Mountain." Windmill Snowy Mountain Scenic Area is located at the Hailang Wind Farm on Laotudingzi Mountain in Heilongjiang, with an altitude of 1600 meters, the highest peak in Heilongjiang Province. This is the Hailang Wind Farm, equipped with 40 wind turbine units, each 80 meters high with 30-meter-long blades. The rotating windmills scattered across the mountain, combined with natural wonders—rime ice, snow-covered pines, and white grassland—create a beautiful landscape!
The scenic area is vast, with things to do both on the mountain and at the foot. We visited it over two half-days. It gets dark early in the Northeast, basically around 4 PM, so you need to plan your time well.
The name "Ten Mile Gallery" reminds people of the Ten Mile Gallery in Yangshuo, with its stunning landscape between mountains and rivers. But here, it's a different kind of northern scenery.
The entire trail is 2 kilometers long. Walking along the snow path and through the forest feels like falling into a world of ice and snow.
Areas with accumulated snow are not slippery, so you can step boldly. A southerner playing with snow for the first time found it extremely satisfying. But be careful on smooth, icy spots to avoid slipping.
Passing through the Rime Ice Corridor, see the branches covered with icicles, crystal clear, attracting many young women to take photos inside.
In the Alpine Zoo, you can see silly roe deer, snow rabbits, and sika deer. You can take photos with them!
Weihu Village (Tiger Stockade Village) has "bandits" guarding it. If you don't give the right password, you can't enter.
Red prayer ropes hang in front of the Mountain God Temple. In this eventful year, I also hope for peace and smoothness.
Ice Rift Valley crossing: step by step, the magic of nature creates different sceneries between north and south. The silver-covered, freezing cold is not as desolate as imagined; instead, it presents a static beauty to tourists, as if time has stopped.
Truly a fairyland!
The next day, we came back to the Windmill Snowy Mountain scenic area and took a shuttle bus to the mountain top. As the altitude increased, the view gradually opened up. Arriving at the Fairy Tale World stele on the top, we then switched to a snowmobile to go even higher.
Riding the fast snowmobile for the first time made my adrenaline surge.
When we got off, everyone's first reaction was "so beautiful." In front of us were white rime ice covered with thick snow, with huge windmills rotating noisily beside us. Under our feet was deep snow. It really looked like a fairy tale world.
Like a child, I ran, jumped, and rolled in the snow. The beautiful scenery in front of me was enough to make a person who lives in the south year-round exclaim in amazement. The shock was beyond words!
The snow was very deep, in some places even reaching above the calves. So when traveling to the Northeast, be sure to take cold protection measures. This is the highest peak in Heilongjiang Province. You can also overlook the surrounding continuous mountains, all covered with a layer of white snow.
After coming down the mountain, we also went to the Royal Snow Amusement Park, which can be called "108 new ways to play in the snow." Snow spinning: a 5-minute ride spinning around while experiencing the fun of turning on ice.
Snow Dragon: a tractor pulls a train of sleds around; one lap is about 1 kilometer.
You can also snow tube: sit on a snow tube and slide down from a high snow pile; this is one of the most popular activities for tourists, playing again and again without getting tired.
Next to the amusement park, there are also horse-drawn sleds, snowmobiles, tank driving, etc., which are also fun in their own way.
The rotating windmills on the snowy mountain are like a fairy tale world. Crossing the Ice Rift Valley on foot, and the "108 ways to play in the snow" are hidden here. This is probably the most beautiful and worthwhile scenery of this trip!
※ The biggest pitfall in ice and snow: Yabuli Snowland Hot Spring
I had been wary of Snow Village cheating me, but I wasn't cheated there. Instead, I got trapped in Yabuli! I had some expectations for the snowland hot spring, because two years ago, I had fond memories of the Beiting Hot Spring in Shenyang. I didn't expect to step into a pit in Yabuli!
It was included in the group tour, so I had prepared a swimsuit. We had 1.5 hours to play on our own. To get a wristband, a deposit of 100 yuan in cash was required!
There were only four or five outdoor pools, and the key point was they weren't hot at all! At minus 20 degrees, a hot spring that isn't hot is ridiculous... So no one was soaking in the outdoor area.
There was a beautiful photo spot outdoors, but it was cordoned off with a red line.
Indoors, there were five pools in total. One was a fish therapy pool for an extra 20 yuan. The other four pools were also featureless.
There wasn't even any warm drinking water. Everything had to be paid for, and even a towel cost an extra 2 yuan. Shocking!
If you're traveling independently, absolutely don't go.
※ The most thrilling in ice and snow: Yabuli Ski Resort
A southerner's obsession is to see snow and ski in the north at least once. This year, due to well-known reasons, overseas skiing is basically impossible. Since winter started, several major domestic ski resorts have become very popular, welcoming peak tourist numbers. Among them, Harbin Yabuli Ski Resort is the largest ski resort in China and also the largest comprehensive snow training center in the country. It is located in the vast hinterland surrounded by Daguo Gui Shan, Erguo Gui Shan, and Sanguo Gui Shan, which are part of the remaining ranges of the Zhangguangcai Ridge, a branch of the Changbai Mountain system.
When coming to Harbin in the Northeast, you must experience skiing, whether you are a pro or a beginner! For Yaya's first trip to Harbin, she naturally included Yabuli Ski Resort in the itinerary. There are three main ways to get from Harbin to Yabuli: by train, with a group tour, or by self-driving. By train from Harbin to Yabuli South Station, the journey takes about 3 hours and costs around 30 yuan. Yabuli South Railway Station is right at Yabuli Ski Resort; exiting the station puts you in the ski resort area. In fact, this train is the special ski train for Yabuli. After getting off, you can take a minibus directly to the ski resort, about a 5-minute ride. Other trains mostly go to Yabuli Town, which is still quite far from Yabuli Ski Resort. Group tours are the most convenient and quick. There are many one-day and two-day tours from Harbin city to Yabuli. Just choose a reputable large travel agency. Self-driving is not recommended. Driving on icy and snowy roads without experience can be dangerous; the drive takes about 3 hours.
The ski resort is divided into beginner slopes, advanced slopes, and the world's first slide. First, you need to buy a general admission ticket. For independent travelers, it's recommended to buy tickets online. The general admission ticket includes ski equipment. Use a small blue card to exchange for ski boots, skis, and poles. You can rent a locker to store your belongings.
There are instructors available at the ski resort. You can decide whether to hire one based on your situation. It costs 240 yuan per person, and within 3 hours they can teach you to ski. Beginners are advised to stay on the beginner slopes and not easily go to advanced slopes. Get used to the equipment first before starting. Most people who put on ski boots for the first time feel uncomfortable. If you really can't ski or are scared, you can just put on the gear and strike a pose for photos.
Yabuli Ski Resort also has the "world's first slide," which requires an additional fee and a cable car ride. This time tunnel is built on Sanguo Guishan, starting at an altitude of 999.8 meters at the top. It consists of a stainless steel slide and a hard plastic roof. It stretches down the mountain like a long dragon, 2680 meters long, with a drop of 570 meters, and 48 curves. Tourists can ride a dry land toboggan with speed control, descending at a maximum speed of 80 km/h, passing through this tunnel, experiencing an overwhelming sense of impact, conquest, and achievement that transcends time and space.
Yabuli Ski Resort is only 88 kilometers from Snow Village. Many tourists arrange both in one itinerary to experience the wonders of the Northeast's ice and snow world together!
※ The most magical experience in ice and snow: Eating ice pops at minus 20 degrees
As a southerner, the biggest obsession is to see ice and snow in the north. Having lived in Xiamen, Fujian, which has no severe winter, I was very much looking forward to this trip to Harbin. I went to Snow Village to see the snow scenery, and of course, I had to visit Central Street in Harbin city.
This long street was first built in 1900. It includes 71 buildings of various architectural styles such as Renaissance and Baroque. It is the most famous pedestrian street in Harbin and even in China. Especially at night when the lights come on, it's really beautiful.
When tourists come to Central Street, besides looking at the characteristic buildings and learning about their deep history, another important thing is to eat a Madeer ice pop. It was founded in 1906 by Josif Kaspe, a Russian Jew, in Harbin, with a history of over 100 years. Its name "Madeer" has been used continuously from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China to after liberation.
No matter the heat or cold, when you come to the Madeer Cold Drink Hall on Central Street, there is always a long line, showing its popularity. It's normal to eat ice pops in summer, but eating Madeer ice pops in the freezing winter at minus 20 degrees has become a major feature of Harbin tourism. Many tourists buy them and eat them straight outside, which is both novel and thrilling.
The reason Madeer ice pops have been popular for so many years is mainly due to their quality. People who have eaten Madeer ice pops will say that the square, goose-yellow ice pop with simple packaging melts in your mouth, sweet but not greasy, with a rich milky flavor, and it's especially delicious. "Delicious" is the consistent quality of Madeer ice pops for over a hundred years. They don't use leavening agents, and the proportion of solid ingredients (milk, eggs, etc.) is much higher than that of ice cream. They don't attract customers with luxurious packaging; they are quite simple.
When coming to Central Street, besides having to eat a Madeer ice pop, you also have to try Harbin red sausage. The more famous brands of Harbin red sausage include Shangwei Red Sausage, which has no branches and queues from morning to night; tourists are advised to give up on that. Qiulin Lidaosi Harbin Red Sausage has multiple branches, making it easier to buy, and also has over a hundred years of history. Harbin Meat Union Fine Red Sausage is also a century-old state-owned enterprise with multiple branches. Both Qiulin Lidaosi and Harbin Meat Union have many branches on Central Street.
In the north, shops don't offer free samples, so you can first buy a small piece to try before deciding whether to buy more! The red sausage is sold by weight and is very fragrant. You can also buy it online and have it shipped.
Central Street is especially lively after dark. Be sure to try eating ice pops and red sausage!
※ The most magnificent building in ice and snow: St. Sophia Cathedral
St. Sophia Cathedral, located next to Central Street, is also a must-visit landmark for tourists. It is not just a cathedral; it is also an art gallery and concert hall.
Built in 1907, St. Sophia Cathedral is a landmark of Harbin, with its striking green onion-dome roof. It was originally built as a military church for the Fourth Infantry Division of the Russian East Siberian Railway during the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway. In the same year, Russian tea merchant I.F. Chistikov funded the reconstruction of a completely wooden church based on the military church. After several renovations, it reached its current scale.
St. Sophia Cathedral was once the largest Eastern Orthodox church in the Far East and is currently the best-preserved Byzantine-style building in China. Today, this magnificent Byzantine building no longer functions as a church. A large square has been built in front of it. Compared with daytime, the night view of the cathedral is even more beautiful.
Now the interior of the cathedral is open for free visits. Visiting hours are 9:00 AM to 11:30 AM, and you need to make a reservation online in advance. The exhibition is titled "Harbin Architectural Art Gallery," displaying "Harbin City Construction Planning Exhibition," which is divided into three parts: "Historical City," "Construction Process," and "Planning Tomorrow." It systematically showcases the style of Harbin as a famous historical and cultural city, the evolution of a modern metropolis, and its future development prospects.
In the afternoon, the cathedral turns into a concert hall. Tickets are 40 yuan per person for three sessions: 14:00, 15:30, and 18:30. Utilizing the cathedral's unique design and natural acoustics, the music here has a special effect. If the time is right, it's worth going in to listen.
St. Sophia Cathedral and Central Street are very close. Tourists usually visit them together. Although the night view is more beautiful, it is still recommended to visit during the day to appreciate the details of the architecture. In the morning, you can also enter for free.
Tips: Opening hours: Free admission from 9:00 AM to 11:30 AM daily, reservation required online. Three concert performances at 14:00, 15:30, and 18:30, 40 yuan/person.
※ The most iconic landmarks in ice and snow: "One River, One Tower, One Street"
In 1957, Harbin suffered a catastrophic flood. The local citizens, with their wisdom and courage, fought against the flood and successfully defended the city. To commemorate this event, the Flood Control Memorial Tower was built on the banks of the Songhua River in 1958. Today, it has become a landmark of Harbin and a must-visit spot for tourists.
The lower step of the tower indicates an elevation of 119.72 meters, marking the highest water level during the 1932 flood that submerged Harbin. The upper step indicates an elevation of 120.30 meters, marking the highest water level in 1957 when the city's people triumphed over the great flood. The relief on the middle of the tower depicts the flood control embankment-building army, from swearing-in, transporting soil, tamping, fighting the flood to celebrating victory, vividly portraying the heroic spirit of the people in the flood control struggle.
The Roman-style colonnade is 7 meters high, composed of 20 pillars forming an arc. The top of the tower is a circular sculpture of workers, peasants, soldiers, and intellectuals. The lower part of the tower is a group relief depicting the vivid scenes of Harbin people overcoming the flood. Next to the Flood Control Memorial Tower is the Songhua River. At this time, the river has frozen over. At night, you can see people playing on the ice.
The area where the Flood Control Memorial Tower is located is also known as Stalin Park, originally called "Riverside Park." It is famous for its imitation of Russian classical architectural style, the "colorless painting altars" spread throughout the park, and sixteen groups of artistic sculptures such as "Swan Spreading Wings," "Three Youths," "Starting," "Diving," and "Sword Dance."
After nightfall, the lights come on, creating many popular photo spots with light effects, as if passing through a time tunnel. The prominent sign "I Love Harbin" has become a favorite photo spot for tourists.
The park is a narrow strip built along the riverbank. There is no strict park boundary. Under the silver-white snow, it has a special charm. When night falls, many citizens and tourists can be seen strolling here.
Directly opposite the Flood Control Memorial Tower is Central Street. It is recommended that tourists arrange to visit these three in one day. The three landmarks "One River, One Tower, One Street" have merged into one, becoming the true symbols of Harbin.
※ Gluttonous delights in ice and snow
Travel is of course inseparable from food. I won't talk much about the group meals; they weren't tasty, just enough to not be hungry. The meals I found on my own during this trip were all without pitfalls, and let me tell you about them one by one!
Pianlianzi, Northeast flavor, a must-visit for skewers in Harbin
The first meal in Harbin was at this restaurant near the hotel called Pianlianzi. The name sounds very Northeast, and it turns out it was even recommended by a Harbin friend!
We arrived at 8 PM, and the place was packed. Mainly grilled skewers, really good! Signature beef skewers, highly recommended, extremely satisfying. Initially ordered 10 skewers, after finishing ordered another 10!
Lamb ribs with bone, I love the beef and lamb of the Northeast. Each skewer of these lamb ribs with bone had three large pieces, with rich bone and meat flavor.
Toast slices, golden and crispy, the best toast I've ever eaten, reached a new height in life.
Geda soup (dough drop soup), noodle lovers must have a bowl of geda soup to warm the stomach.
Grilled enoki mushrooms, with some corn salad for vegetables. The first meal in Harbin was perfect!
Jiu Zhuan Xiao Mo, Northeast cuisine is truly generous!
Coming to Harbin, how can you not go to Central Street? Coming to Harbin, how can you not eat Northeast cuisine? After strolling and taking photos, we needed to find food. Opening the website, I saw this nearby restaurant ranked first: Jiu Zhuan Xiao Mo. That's the place!
Their environment is more refined among Northeast restaurants, suitable for dates and family gatherings. It gets dark early in the Northeast, so it's recommended to arrive before 9 PM, otherwise they start preparing to close.
The main offerings are Northeast dishes, truly generous. Traditional Guobao Rou (sweet and sour pork), a must-eat in the Northeast. Guobao Rou is actually a bit like Xiamen's sweet and sour pork: coated in batter, fried, and then drizzled with sauce, a bit sweet and sour.
Ximeng (Inner Mongolia) roast meat, a meat lover's delight. I couldn't believe 69 yuan for such a large plate.
Hand-pulled flatbread, really huge! When ordering, the server said two dishes would be enough for us two. I shouldn't have ignored that advice. We packed it up and had it for breakfast the next day.
Northeast cuisine is truly generous!
Iron pot stewed big fish: 68 yuan group-buy price gave a 680-yuan happiness
Although the group tour to Harbin wasn't very enjoyable, the last meal I chose on my own at this restaurant called Shan He Tun, located near Central Street, gave me a huge surprise! I have to shout: Northeast cuisine is too honest! During meal times, there's a queue. It's recommended to get a number online in advance. You can stroll around Central Street and then walk over when it's about time.
The group-buy deal of 68 yuan for iron pot stewed fish seemed too good to be true. The description said 3 fish, about 4 jin (2 kg), plus side dishes, vermicelli, and farmhouse twisted rolls. I felt it might be a low price to attract customers, until it was served and I realized I was wrong! When ordering, you choose directly in front of the ingredient display. There were three of us. After ordering the group-buy, the server asked if we needed some side dishes, so we added a serving of sesame sauce pulled cold noodles (majia lapai) and Jin Tou Ba Nao (tendons and other beef parts).
Each table has a large iron pot. After all ingredients are chosen, the server makes the iron pot stew on the spot. They stir-fry the sauce, add eggplant base, put in the fish and Jin Tou Ba Nao, add tofu, Chinese cabbage, and other side dishes, pour in broth, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes (we kept asking the server if it was ready). After about 20 minutes, they place a steamer of twisted rolls on top of the pot and steam for 8 minutes. They take out the twisted rolls, then add the vermicelli, and after 2 minutes, it's ready to eat.
The twisted rolls are soft and tender, even better dipped in the broth.
The fish has absorbed the broth, it's excellent, and has large bones, so no worry about choking.
The added Jin Tou Ba Nao, which is beef tendons, became soft and flavorful after half an hour of simmering.
Finally, the vermicelli completely absorbs the broth; don't miss it! I have to exclaim: The portion is too huge! It felt like this 2-3 person meal could feed 10 people! Northeast cuisine is way too generous. The server uncle was very cute; he kept telling us not to rush, that it needs to cook thoroughly to be tasty.
When I went, the Harbin Ice and Snow World had not yet opened. By January, when I wanted to go again, it had closed due to the pandemic. The snow-seeking trip can only wait until next winter! This hurried trip to Harbin had both regrets and touching moments. The beauty of the Ice City needs to be savored carefully!
Unforgettable: the earthy Guozhuang dance party in Snow Village!
Unforgettable: the fairy-tale world of falling snow on Windmill Snowy Mountain!
Unforgettable: the joy of eating ice pops on Central Street at minus 20 degrees!
Unforgettable: that pot of iron pot stewed big fish full of sincerity!
Looking forward to the next Ice City trip!
