Family Trip to Northeast China with Parents 2019

The three northeastern provinces—Heilongjiang, Jilin, and Liaoning—Heilongjiang being China's northernmost province. My eldest aunt, second aunt, and uncle, during that special era, responded to the national call as Shanghai educated youths and lived and worked on that cold black soil for over a decade. It was also there that they met their spouses (my eldest aunt's husband and second aunt's husband, also Shanghai educated youths), fell in love, and started families. My father, after graduating from Beihang University, was assigned to work at the Shenyang Aircraft Manufacturing Factory for a few years. Thus, revisiting these places was the original purpose of our trip. After some planning, we designed our itinerary: a total of 20 days covering all three northeastern provinces, combining the three mainstream travel modes—self-driving, group tour, and independent travel. Phase 1: Self-driving tour—visiting Hutou Fortress, Dongfanghong Wetland, Zhenbao Island, Xingkai Lake, Jingpo Lake, and Chaihe Xiaojiuzhai scenic area in Heilongjiang. Phase 2: Group tour—joining a Ctrip tour group to visit Harbin in Heilongjiang and Tianchi (Heavenly Lake) on Changbai Mountain in Jilin. Phase 3: Independent travel—using the increasingly developed high-speed rail, urban metro, and rental cars to visit Changchun in Jilin, Shenyang and Dalian in Liaoning. The entire trip involved almost all current means of transportation: planes, high-speed rail, bullet trains, green trains, cars, and cruise ships. Members: Dad and Mom, eldest aunt and her husband, second aunt and her husband, uncle and his wife, plus me and my wife—a total of 10 people forming our family tour group. Considering the elders are advanced in age and worried about the severe cold in winter in the northeast, we finally chose to depart in summer.

D1: On the morning of August 23, the 10 of us boarded a Shanghai Airlines flight, made a stopover in Qingdao, and flew to Jixi Xingkaihu Airport in Heilongjiang around noon. Friends from the farm where my eldest aunt had previously worked were already waiting for us at the airport with three cars. After a simple and warm exchange of greetings, we drove for nearly two hours to reach our first destination: the 854 Farm in Yingchun Town.

After settling our luggage at the hotel, accompanied by the farm's "second-generation farmers," we visited the farm's bear bile pharmaceutical factory. We saw a number of black bears that you would never see in any zoo, and witnessed the extraction of bear bile. It was not as cruel as some previous reports suggested; the bears were happily drinking their favorite honey water during the process.

The first group photo of the senior travel group—the oldest was 80 years old (Dad).

In the evening, the farm specially organized a warm welcome party. New and old friends gathered together in a lively atmosphere. This was my first experience of the warmth and hospitality of the people of Northeast China. My eldest aunt made a thank-you speech on behalf of the family.

D2: We started the self-driving tour of Phase 1. The 10 of us split into two cars—one driven by me, the other driven by my 73-year-old eldest uncle-in-law (aunt's husband) with my 80-year-old dad as co-driver. The two veterans took turns driving, cooperating with great tacit understanding, still vigorous and energetic.

Hutou Fortress, located on the banks of the Wusuli River in Hutou Town, Hulin City, Heilongjiang, was a military base built by the Japanese Kwantung Army during the invasion of China along the former Sino-Soviet border. It was known as the "Oriental Maginot Line." After Japan announced its surrender on August 15, 1945, the garrison refused to surrender, and it was finally captured by the Soviet army on August 26.

Eight group members took a photo in front of the monument marking the end of World War II.

The Sino-Russian border river Wusuli River beside Hutou Fortress, with a monument marking the starting point of the Wusuli River.

The Sino-Russian border marker on the bank of the Wusuli River and the Russian border watchtower on the opposite bank.

D3: We originally planned to visit Fuyuan, known as China's easternmost point, but due to heavy rainstorms in the area earlier, my eldest aunt's friend in Fuyuan informed us that the flooding was severe. Heixiazi Island, which we had planned to visit, was submerged, making it impossible. So we had to change plans. Not far from the farm, there is a place formerly known to every household—Zhenbao Island. Although friends had told us before that it was also flooded and that a permit was required to land, Zhenbao Island is so famous to my parents' generation and mine that we finally decided to go. On the way, we passed the Shihai Park in Dongfanghong Wetland. Shihai is composed of natural rocks formed over 100 million years ago.

We climbed up the wooden boardwalk step by step.

We reached the three-story observation tower on the top of the hill, offering a panoramic view.

We encountered a wild snake sunbathing on the road—absolutely pristine nature.

The submerged Zhenbao Island dock.

D4: If the first two days of self-driving were just practice for the two veteran drivers, today's 500+ km long drive was the real deal. After breakfast, we temporarily left the farm and drove to Mudanjiang City, passing Xingkai Lake scenic area. Xingkai Lake was originally an inland lake of China, but in 1860, it was forcibly ceded by Russia under the Treaty of Peking (1860). Now it is a border lake between China and Russia, with the northern third belonging to China.

In the 1950s, General Wang Zhen led 100,000 officers and soldiers to develop the Great Northern Wilderness here. In 1968, a large number of educated youths also came here to cultivate the land together with the demobilized soldiers. To commemorate these builders, the Great Northern Wilderness Reclamation Memorial Hall was built. We followed our elders in recalling those times of struggle against nature. Five old friends (who had worked there) took a photo in front of the monument.

In the afternoon, passing through Lianzhushan Town, we searched based on memory and finally found the house where my eldest aunt and her husband had lived more than 40 years ago.

D5: Jingpo Lake—the largest alpine barrier lake in China and the second largest in the world. It is less than 100 km from Mudanjiang City. At the outlet of the lake, there is a steep cliff where water rushes down, forming the magnificent Jingpo Lake Waterfall, commonly called "Diaoshuilou."

The mother-in-law and daughter-in-law with the waterfall as a backdrop.

We boarded a sightseeing boat and leisurely enjoyed the lakeside scenery.

A playful old child at heart.

Since Jingpo Lake is a volcanic barrier lake, there must be volcanoes around. We then visited the Crater Underground Forest Scenic Area. The volcano is currently dormant, with its last eruption occurring more than 2,500 years ago. The largest eruption about 5,500 years ago caused cooled lava to block the surging Mudan River like a dam, forming today's Jingpo Lake. Over thousands of years, trees have grown on the inner walls of the crater, forming a forest.

Going deep into the volcano, we could still faintly see traces left after the eruption.

Heading towards the bottom of the crater.

A group photo of the climb.

D6: When familiar names like Weihu Mountain, Jiapigou, Naitoushan appeared before us, we couldn't help but think of the story of the lone hero Yang Zirong. The bandit lair in the novel "Tracks in the Snowy Forest" is now a tourist attraction—Chaihe Xiaojiuzhai Scenic Area.

Dense forests, winding streams, fresh air, and a quiet, pristine natural environment.

D7: Today we drove nearly 400 km from Mudanjiang back to the farm. Before leaving, we tasted a very northeastern specialty—iron pot stew, with two large iron pots on the table.

On the way back, we were lucky to encounter two rainbows. The endless black soil fields planted with crops offered a superb view.

D8: This afternoon we would leave the farm for Harbin. Early in the morning, before leaving, we visited the 854 Modern Agriculture Park on the farm.

The weather was bad with insufficient light; we took a drone shot of the agricultural science park before the rain.

In the rain, we visited the former residence of my eldest aunt and second aunt in their company (military production unit), where they spent their youth.

At noon, the warm-hearted northeastern folks gave us a farewell feast. This big table.

Especially meaningful gifts—light but affectionate: a lifetime (cup) of kinship and friendship, gratitude.

In the afternoon, we boarded the train to Harbin. In this era of high-speed rail, the green train was full of nostalgia.

D9: Arrived at Harbin Xiangfang Station at 6 a.m. Several old friends of my uncle from Harbin had already arrived early to pick us up by car. They took us to breakfast. Watching them gather and chat about old times, time flew by; may youth never fade!

Then we visited the site of Unit 731, the Japanese army's biological warfare unit. The heinous crimes committed by the Japanese army left us extremely grieved and angry.

After lunch, we tasted the typical northeastern dumplings and then checked into the JW Marriott Hotel Harbin. After a short rest, we once again experienced the warm hospitality of the people of Harbin at dinner.

D10: Today officially began Phase 2 of our group tour—Harbin-Changbai Mountain-Changchun. We checked in at Harbin Grand Theater.

Took the Songhua River cable car to the Russian-style town.

Artificial rainbow during the ferry ride to the Songhua River railway bridge.

My parents by the Songhua River railway bridge.

The old bridge has become a scenic spot; the new bridge with white arched steel beams on the right has taken over its function.

Group photo in front of the famous Saint Sophia Cathedral.

The authentic, unwrapped Ma Di'er ice pops on Central Street.

Dinner at the riverside restaurant under the setting sun on the Songhua River—Russian-style steak western meal.

D11: This morning we took a bullet train to leave Harbin. At noon we arrived at Dunhua in Jilin, then took a bus to the North Slope scenic area of Changbai Mountain. We checked into the InterContinental Changbaishan Resort (actually Crowne Plaza Changbaishan Hot Spring) and enjoyed a comfortable hot spring bath, recharging our energy for tomorrow's trip to see Tianchi on Changbai Mountain.

D12: Changbai Mountain Tianchi (Heavenly Lake). The main peak of Changbai Mountain is a dormant volcano. The conical crater top accumulates water to form a lake, surrounded by 16 peaks. Due to the high altitude and changeable weather, Tianchi can only be seen clearly for about 100 days a year—a rare opportunity. Heaven was especially kind to our senior tour group: blue sky, white clouds, a mirror of the sky—this added the most stunning touch to our trip to the Northeast, perfect!

Tianchi is also a border lake between China and North Korea. On the opposite hillside, a small path leads to North Korea.

The outlet of Tianchi—Changbai Waterfall.

Steaming hot springs.

Secluded Green Abyss Pool.

After descending, we arrived at the West Slope resort area of Changbai Mountain—Wanda Town, and checked into Park Hyatt Changbaishan.

D13: Wanda Town is a ski resort; winter is the peak season. Summer has fewer tourists, quiet. In the morning, we took a relaxing half-day off, sleeping in comfortably. The old members couldn't keep still and roamed around the town. After lunch, we boarded a bus to Changchun. In the evening, we checked into Hyatt Regency Changchun. This concluded Phase 2 of our group tour. Tomorrow we would start the final leg: independent travel in Changchun-Shenyang-Dalian.

D14: In the morning, we visited the Puppet Manchurian Palace in Changchun. The last emperor Puyi was enthroned three times and deposed three times. The Puppet Manchurian Palace was his residence when he was enthroned for the third time as the puppet emperor of Manchukuo.

Photos of Empress Wan Rong and Consort Wen Xiu.

In the afternoon, we left Changchun by high-speed rail and arrived in Shenyang in one hour. The speed of China's high-speed rail is truly impressive. After checking into the hotel, we headed to Shenyang's famous commercial street—Zhongjie.

D15: Shenyang Imperial Palace, the capital of the Qing dynasty before entering the pass. Although its area and architectural scale cannot compare with the Forbidden City in Beijing, one can vaguely see the prototype of the Forbidden City.

After lunch, I accompanied my dad to visit the place where he had worked and lived more than 50 years ago. At that time, I wasn't even born yet. With this, all the important goals of our trip were fully achieved.

Had to take a photo for remembrance.

The single dormitory he once lived in.

D16: Zhao Mausoleum (Zhaoling), commonly called Shenyang Beiling, is the mausoleum of Emperor Huang Taiji (the second Qing emperor) and his empress.

Group photo of all members with the statue of Huang Taiji.

After lunch, we visited Shenyang Aircraft Corporation (SAC) Aviation Expo Park. SAC is the earliest factory in New China to manufacture fighter jets. Here we could see various decommissioned aircraft models.

Listening carefully to the explanation from my dad, who served as a part-time guide.

My happy mom taking off.

My wife waving "triumphant return."

D17: In the morning, we visited Zhang's Mansion (Marshal Zhang's Mansion), the residence of General Zhang Xueliang and his father, Zhang Zuolin (the King of the Northeast). This three-courtyard compound, along with the big and small blue buildings, were iconic structures of the Northeast at that time. In the afternoon, we once again experienced the speed of China's high-speed rail, arriving at the beautiful coastal city of Dalian—the last stop of our trip.

A statue of General Zhang Xueliang stands in the square.

D18: The trip was drawing to a close. Considering the advanced age of the group members and the long duration of the trip, we specially rented a van in Dalian for transportation.

Although Dalian was sunny today, the fog and haze were severe, with poor visibility. After breakfast, I drove east along Dalian's most famous coastal road, passing Heishijiao, Xinghai Square, Fujiazhuang, Beida Bridge, Yanwoling, Tiger Beach, and finally reaching Bangchui Island. On the return trip, we took the Xinghai Bay double-decker sea-crossing bridge—upper deck westward, lower deck eastward—an ingenious design.

D19: Today we drove to Lushun Naval Port and Baiyu Mountain, the commanding height of the port. After a short winding mountain road, we reached the top and could overlook the entire port.

A group of old children playing happily with white doves in front of the lighthouse.

After descending, we visited the former site of the Russo-Japanese Prison.

At lunch by the naval port, we took a close-up photo of a majestic Chinese navy warship.

After lunch, we visited the Submarine Museum.

Entered the interior of a submarine.

With this, the entire trip concluded. The next day we would return to Shanghai (the Magic City).

This trip successfully fulfilled the wish of my father, uncles, and aunts to revisit old places, as well as my own desire to see the black soil of Northeast China. In the future, I plan to arrange another trip in winter to experience the snowy landscape covered in silver white.