Rushing to Northeast China: A Five-Day-Five-Night Journey from Harbin to Changbai Mountain
Harbin, the legendary Ice City, is a distant city embedded in the northern land, known as the Little Paris of the East. I had only heard of it, but never set foot there before. Changbai Mountain, the most famous mountain in Northeast China, seems somewhat obscure compared to the glory of Mount Hua and Mount Huang, yet it remains a recommended destination by many friends and family.
For this trip, surprisingly my colleague and I reached a unanimous decision, as Harbin and Changbai Mountain were also places he longed to visit. So the plan for this journey began to take shape early this year. However, a small-scale epidemic outbreak in Northeast China early this year disrupted our plans, and the sub-zero temperatures in Harbin during winter, often dropping below minus twenty degrees Celsius, really turned me off. So we adjusted our trip to the summer.
The main reason for choosing Harbin was the Russian-style Central Street. Although I couldn't travel abroad at the moment, a domestic trip that felt like being overseas was still possible. Coming to Harbin, known as the Oriental Moscow, gave us an experience completely different from the Yangtze River Delta.
Having traveled independently several times, planning itineraries, booking flights and hotels had become very familiar and effortless for me. I also enjoyed the process thoroughly. So my colleague only needed to do two things: 1) pay money, and 2) act as a porter.
To accommodate my colleague's busy work schedule and limited vacation days, along with the flight availability and making full use of weekends, I created a very tight itinerary without any wasted time.
Day 0, June 30, Wednesday: Shanghai - Harbin
After finishing a hard day's work (shirking), the exciting moment of leaving work finally arrived. Without delay, I quickly took a taxi to Shanghai Pudong International Airport.
The last time I came to Pudong Airport was when I traveled to Japan in November two years ago. I didn't expect to be here again for a trip to Northeast China.
Due to the pandemic, people preferred to fly from Hongqiao Airport. Compared to the bustling crowds at Hongqiao, the once busy terminals of Pudong Airport seemed especially deserted now.
Perhaps the number of passengers was indeed low, so the security check process went very quickly. Soon we reached the platform of the underground shuttle train in the terminal, heading to the satellite hall.
After arriving at the satellite hall, we had our first meal of the trip.
Although this trip was not to Japan, the Japanese restaurant in front of us looked quite good. The two bowls of tonkotsu ramen we ordered brought a rare business opportunity to the shop.
With full stomachs, we went to the departure lounge. It was about an hour before boarding, perfect timing.
At around 8:30 PM, boarding began.
As the plane prepared for takeoff, we could catch a simple nap.
Shortly after midnight, we arrived at Harbin Taiping International Airport. Compared to the emptiness of Pudong Airport, this place was vibrant. The crowd outside the security checkpoint seemed to be waving their arms high, welcoming us.
It took about an hour to take a taxi from the airport to our Habsburg Hotel. After checking in and reaching our room, it was already 1:30 AM. Though exhausted, we still needed some sense of ceremony. Before our luggage and clutter ruined the cozy room, I quickly took a few photos of the warm environment.
Shower, sleep, good night.
Good morning, beautiful Oriental Moscow.
Bad luck, perhaps? The first day of the trip was cloudy, with a light rain.
We had booked a river-view room with a nice view of the Songhua River. However, the large construction site right in front of the hotel spoiled the scene. Later, looking at the map, we learned that the construction was for Harbin Metro Line 3. Once completed, travel from the hotel would be more convenient since there would be a metro station right at the door.
Although we went to bed very late the previous night, it didn't stop us from waking up early. At the hotel restaurant, we found we were the first guests to arrive for breakfast.
The restaurant's decoration was elegant and tasteful, as the pictures show.
Breakfast had many choices and tasted great.
After breakfast, our itinerary officially began.
First stop: Harbin's famous Central Street. It was only a ten-minute walk from the hotel.
European-style road signs: besides English, there was also Russian, further showing Harbin's strong Russian cultural influence.
Although the rain came and went and the sky was gloomy, walking along Central Street had its own charm.
In Harbin, the Madier brand was everywhere, especially along Central Street.
Turning right from Central Street and walking straight along West 14th Street, the building in front was the famous Saint Sophia Cathedral, a must-visit in Harbin.
Unfortunately, the light rain turned into moderate rain.
Due to the heavy rain, we chose to enter the cathedral earlier. Inside, the traces of time were well preserved.
At that moment, a concert was being performed in the cathedral, worth sitting down to enjoy.
It was noon, so we went to Lao-Chu-Jia to taste authentic Northeastern cuisine. Guo Bao Rou (sweet and sour pork) was a must-order, no explanation needed.
After lunch, the rain gradually stopped. Walking along the river path, we saw the Songhua River sightseeing cable car ahead.
At the cable car station, the Swan Castle was right in front.
After buying tickets, we went upstairs. Inside the castle, there seemed to be a mall.
Once on the cable car, we found the interior decorations too romantic, making us a bit awkward to look at each other.
About five minutes later, we arrived at Sun Island on the Songhua River. Unsurprisingly, the cable car station on the island was called Sun Castle.
Sun Island is essentially a large park.
Limited time led us to rent a tandem bicycle to satisfy my girly heart. I never expected that a long-cherished wish from three years ago would come true here.
The waterfall was beautiful, but the weather wasn't cooperating.
This was the time for an on-site photography lesson. My porter colleague finally got to use the tripod he had carried all day.
After finishing Sun Island, the next stop was the Harbin Grand Theater.
The theater is located on another island on the Songhua River. Though adjacent to Sun Island, we still had to take a detour.
The wetlands around the theater had a great ecosystem and pleasant environment, making it a natural urban oxygen bar.
We walked quietly around the theater.
At that moment, the distant sky showed a hazy sun.
With sunlight, this uniquely shaped building gained a different texture.
As the sky cleared further, blue appeared behind the clouds. I took another photo in front of the theater.
On the way back, the weather turned partly cloudy. Next time, I'd like to watch a performance here.
Back in Harbin city, it was just time for dinner. The dish portions at Yu-Shi-Zi-Wei-Guan shocked us both. The generous servings of Northeastern cuisine lived up to their reputation.
Luckily we ordered only three dishes, leaving room to taste the restaurant's unique old yogurt.
After dinner, we returned to Central Street to experience Harbin's wonderful nightlife.
We went to the pedestrian bridge on Shangzhi Street to overlook the bustling traffic below.
As the Oriental Moscow, Harbin naturally offered opportunities for close encounters with Russian culture.
On the outskirts of Harbin lies a Russian-style manor. Coming here feels like being in Russia.
If you want an overseas trip without leaving the country, Volga Manor is an excellent choice.
On the second day of the trip, at 8 AM, we boarded a tour bus and started our one-day trip to Volga Manor.
One benefit of taking the bus was that it also took us through downtown Harbin.
Passing by Harbin Railway Station, a building full of European style.
The Dragon Tower, one of Harbin's landmarks, we didn't have time to visit, but thanks to the bus ride, we could at least check in.
It took about an hour from Central Street to Volga Manor. We arrived around 9:20 AM.
The visitor center already had a strong Russian style, but unfortunately the weather was still cloudy.
A map of Volga Manor.
Entering the manor, the beautiful scenery was full of exotic atmosphere.
A small flower bed in front of a roadside building.
After taking photos for a while, I realized it was actually a restroom. Even the restroom was so beautiful.
Following the guide's recommendation, we first went to the nearby pier to take a boat ride. The manor reportedly canceled the boat fee to benefit visitors, so now it's free with admission.
The boat ride took about 20 minutes. With a gentle breeze, the scenery along the riverbanks was refreshing.
The manor covered a large area, with many unknown places ahead to explore. Let's go.
Arriving at a flower bed.
A weather vane shaped like a rooster on a distant rooftop.
In the distance, the Petrov Art Palace, a very majestic building.
Arriving at Tsaritsyno Castle, the exterior walls were very distinctive.
Passing through a forest, there was an unknown cabin with a nice appearance.
Arriving at Petrov Art Palace, the sky began to clear up.
Entering the palace, the splendor that greeted us made me exclaim, "Oh my god, what a divine place!"
In the center of the spacious hall, closing my eyes, I imagined royalty hosting a grand and elegant ball.
A staircase leading to the second floor, unfortunately off-limits.
This would also be an ideal place for weddings.
Immersed in this magnificent palace, my colleague realized he had become the protagonist in the camera frame.
Time to refuel. Taking the internal shuttle, we arrived at the Golden Ring Western Restaurant in the manor to enjoy the long-awaited Russian lunch.
Upon entering the restaurant, its style made me deeply question: Am I really not in Russia?
The dishes arrived, from appetizers to desserts, each was delicious and beautifully presented.
Whenever I travel, I always think that the taste doesn't matter; what's important is that the photo looks good.
After a satisfying meal, we walked out of the restaurant to find the sky had cleared up.
The castle opposite the restaurant was our next destination: Vodka Castle.
At the entrance of Vodka Castle, I have to say Volga and Vodka are easily confused.
The castle's exterior is a replica of a Russian castle, while inside is a museum detailing vodka culture.
This should be the notorious iron gate guarding the door.
Outside, the main gate we passed during the morning boat ride.
A lifelike statue of a general.
On the other side of the river was the Golden Ring Western Restaurant.
In the basement of Vodka Castle, a mysterious vodka bar was hidden, easy to miss.
This was one of the most recommended places in the entire manor.
Passing through a small door, we reached the bar entrance.
Going down a spiral staircase gave a mysterious feeling.
At the bar lobby, with dim lighting, the whole place was full of atmosphere.
There were few customers, so it felt like we had the place to ourselves.
The lights and glass decorations on the bar counter.
Coming here without tasting vodka would be a crime against heaven. Moreover, a serving was only ten yuan, incredibly good value.
Iced glass filled with vodka, paired with pickled cucumbers, made for a wonderful afternoon.
However, being used to juices and coconut milk, I simply couldn't drink it. Although the pickled cucumber with vodka tasted okay, I ended up diluting it with mineral water to force it down—truly a waste of a good thing.
Compared to the harsh vodka, the decorations beside the seat attracted me more.
I have to marvel: the outdoor environment of the manor might not be unforgettable, but the indoor environment is absolutely stunning.
Leaving the castle, the sky was almost clear. Under sunlight, the castle looked even more beautiful against the lawn.
This scene—blue sky and green water—no doubt, it was a manor in the Russian countryside.
Continuing to stroll through the manor, every unique Russian-style building made it impossible to put down the camera.
Although the manor covered a large area, there were not many buildings, so the distances between them were considerable. The manor was mostly covered by greenery.
Passing another unknown forest cabin.
This angle provided a full view of Tsaritsyno Castle.
A note: due to a previous flood, some roads in the manor were damaged and still under repair. Especially the northeast corner, where the paths were muddy, making the experience unpleasant and the scenery much worse. When we arrived in this area in the morning, we felt disappointed. However, the subsequent experiences quickly dispelled that negative feeling.
St. Nicholas Church was the only pure wood structure building in the manor.
Next to the church was the Volga Manor monument.
Finally, blue skies and white clouds appeared, but the afternoon sun turned scorching.
Originally expecting a cloudy day, I didn't take sun protection measures before leaving. The fierce Northeast sun caught me off guard.
Close-up of the church top.
Entering the church, the first thing we saw was a huge plaque wall.
There was also a staircase leading to the second floor.
After walking around the manor, we returned to the starting point near the river.
By the small river, a gentle breeze blew.
The flowers in the manor were in full bloom.
Ahead was our last stop in the manor: the Sky Garden.
Walking to the end of the Sky Garden, the building at the top of the slope was the Maria Wedding Church.
Small flowers on the slope.
The Maria Wedding Church is only open during weddings, so we couldn't enter.
Sunny weather suitable for climbing high and looking far.
This was the best spot to overlook the entire Volga Manor.
On the way to the exit, there was a beautiful building called Fantasia Club, but we had no time to visit.
Under the shade of trees by the river, sunlight cast dappled shadows.
Back at the same spot, the scenery had changed.
The Martha Gift Shop ahead allowed buying souvenirs.
Dandelions in the flower bed.
A distinctive side view of Martha's shop.
Geese, geese, geese, singing to the sky; pluck feathers, boil water, stew the big goose.
Passing through a forest, a tourist beside me recited this adapted Northeast version of the poem, almost making me laugh out loud.
When the geese heard the second half, they sensed something wrong and quickly fled in panic.
The Volga Hotel next to the visitor center offered accommodation for those wanting a slow-paced vacation.
At 3:30 PM, the bus departed from Volga Manor punctually and returned to Central Street about an hour later.
Under the afternoon sun, Central Street was bustling with crowds.
At the intersection of Central Street and Youyi Road, heading north along Central Street leads to the Flood Control Monument.
Walking along Youyi Road, our hotel was in sight. Finally, I could take some photos of the hotel.
Back in the room, the Swan Castle outside the window was bathed in a faint golden hue.
Although the one-day trip to Volga Manor was over, today's itinerary continued.
At this moment, Saint Sophia Cathedral was bathed in golden sunset—it was incredibly beautiful, never tired of looking at it.
After a hard day's work, it was time to reward ourselves.
But the Dongbei cuisine at Ding-Xiang-Xiao-Zhen was even more generous. The stir-fried cabbage we ate for a while still looked like a small mountain. The Dongbei dumplings as a staple felt overwhelmed.
As a specialty of Northeast China, my colleague wanted to ask the next table for a piece of their Guo Bao Rou to taste. But as thin-skinned Southerners, we didn't do it.
In the end, we couldn't finish the three dishes. When paying the bill, we had to marvel: not only were the portions huge, but the prices were extremely cheap. All three dishes including the staple cost less than 100 yuan. If this were in Shanghai, the portions would be halved and prices doubled.
After dinner, it gradually got dark, and streetlights turned on.
Although Saint Sophia Cathedral looked great at sunset, its illuminated night view was even more worth looking forward to.
Since we came late the previous day and found the lights already off, we specifically asked for the lighting time and rushed over quickly—after tonight, we wouldn't have another chance.
At the square, we set up the tripod and got ready to work.
During shooting, someone even asked if I was a professional charging for photography. I guess that was a compliment to my side hustle—it must be.
Saint Sophia Cathedral at night displayed another kind of beauty.
A panoramic view of the square. The octagonal pavilion in front was also beautiful; I regretted not taking close-ups.
The last stop of the day was the Binzhou Railway Bridge over the Songhua River.
Walking straight along Dijie Street next to Saint Sophia Cathedral, passing the Train Theme Square, we could board the railway bridge, though it was packed with people.
From the bridge, the night scenery along the Songhua River was beautiful.
Strolling along Harbin's Bund, we took a souvenir photo of the Binzhou Railway Bridge, marking a perfect end to the day's itinerary.
After two days of exploring Harbin city and suburbs, only one attraction remained: the Siberian Tiger Park.
Since we had to catch a flight to Changbai Mountain at noon, we arrived at the park early in the morning, hoping the tigers would greet us with their best spirit.
As soon as we got off the car, the giant tiger at the entrance caught our attention, though a bit scary.
Outside the tiger park, the square looked like a community garden, perfect for morning exercise.
Small flowers in the flower bed.
In summer, the park opens at 8 AM. There were few visitors, and we didn't have to queue for tickets.
After buying tickets, we prepared to enter.
Another fine day put us in a good mood.
Following my colleague's strong suggestion, we bought tickets for the adventure vehicle, allowing interaction with the tigers through feeding.
After ticket check, we arrived at the adventure vehicle parking lot. A row of adventure vehicles looked impressive.
Ready to board. Seeing the vehicles covered with wire mesh, safety seemed assured.
Once on board, it felt like a moving cage.
Then we realized we were the beasts locked in a cage.
As the adventure vehicle slowly drove into the park, tiger figures began to appear around us.
Originally expecting ferocious tigers, we found they were just a bunch of cute big cats, some particularly adorable.
Of course, a few were fierce, like this one's gaze.
Some big cats had silly but cute expressions.
The only difference from regular vehicles was that the adventure vehicle allowed feeding tigers through small windows. The park cleverly let visitors pay for the food while saving the trouble of feeding, killing two birds with one stone.
Finally came the feeding moment my colleague had been looking forward to.
After visiting all the breeding areas, we arrived at the terminal. In front of the terminal was a viewing path, where besides Siberian tigers, other animals were also kept.
First, a liger—a hybrid of a tiger and a lion.
It looked like a giant orange cat.
The legendary king of beasts, so cute?
This lion, the king of beasts, was incredibly cute and slept very soundly.
The most handsome was this leopard, contemplating why he was locked up here.
This pose was so cool it looked like he might speak at any moment.
White tiger, not as good-looking as the golden tiger, skinny and not cute.
White lions, a male and a female, somewhat ugly.
Black panther, Wakanda Forever!
After leaving the park, the biggest impression was that although the tigers had food and shelter, they had been domesticated and lost their wildness. For the tigers, this place was a big prison.
Returning to the hotel to check out, we took a taxi to Harbin Taiping Airport, where the second leg of our trip would begin.
As a hub airport in Northeast China, it was extremely crowded.
Lunchtime: How could we be in Northeast China without eating authentic Northeastern dumplings? Actually, we were short on time, and the dumplings were ready-made, so we could eat quickly.
Boarding the plane, as the scenery outside changed, we got closer to Changbai Mountain.
Around 2 PM, the plane landed smoothly at Changbai Mountain Airport.
I thought everyone was going to Changbai Mountain, but it turned out only a few passengers were actually heading there; it was just a stopover.
Also, for the first time after many flights, the luggage arrived before the passengers. Only our two suitcases were left alone on the conveyor belt, waiting to be picked up.
Changbai Mountain Airport is small and currently undergoing expansion.
We took our chartered car and headed to the North Slope scenic area.
At Volga Manor, we overheard other tourists saying that Changbai Mountain had been closed due to heavy rain two days earlier, forcing them to change their itinerary to Harbin. Now it was our turn to visit Changbai Mountain tomorrow and the day after. Although it wasn't raining heavily and our flights weren't canceled, we were still worried. However, the driver uncle told us that Changbai Mountain only closes in extreme conditions, which happen once every decade or so. Hearing that set our minds at ease. But whether we could see Heaven Lake was uncertain—it was all up to fate. Since we had come, we would just leave it to destiny.
On the way to the North Slope, the driver uncle strongly recommended we stop to admire and photograph the scenery. It was indeed wide and beautiful.
When the driver uncle said we could leave our backpacks in the car, I was a bit worried. Maybe I was judging him unfairly; what if he drove away with our stuff? Then my colleague and I would be left stranded on the highway.
But our phones and valuables were with us, so we could contact the car service or call the police. I didn't think the driver would do anything so absurd.
Since it was still early, the driver uncle enthusiastically recommended a visit to the Magic World Scenic Area first—a must-do near Changbai Mountain. It would only take about 40 minutes for a special experience.
I was puzzled initially because the Magic World Scenic Area must be large, and 40 minutes seemed impossible to cover. Then we arrived at the entrance and learned we were going to do the Daquan River rafting in the Magic World.
We boarded a kayak, plunged down the small stream, and embarked on a magical journey of random 360-degree rotations.
A back view of my colleague's large head, seriously pondering life.
Other tourists were having a great time too.
Especially these two girls, who sang folk songs while rowing, very cheerful.
Lush trees on both sides of the stream.
After getting ashore, each guest received a souvenir photo.
Friends asked me why my colleague wore such a hopeless expression. I told them it was because Changbai Mountain's mosquitoes were extremely fierce, and we were delivering ourselves right to them. My colleague has delicate skin—like a piece of fatty meat on a chopping board, waiting for flies to come.
Around 5:30 PM, we finally arrived at the Crowne Plaza Changbaishan Resort. We chose this hotel because it's right at the entrance of the North Slope. Though not cheap, it was convenient.
The hotel room was simple and elegant. The warm color scheme made it very comfortable and cozy.
Drawing the curtains enhanced the cozy feeling.
Since we booked a mountain-view room, we could see Changbai Mountain in the distance from the window.
Dinner time arrived as scheduled. Although the hotel is at the foot of Changbai Mountain, the nearest town, Erdaobaihe, is a considerable distance away. So dinner could only be at the hotel.
As a hotel in a tourist area, dinner wasn't value-for-money, but we were satisfied with a small Northeastern iron pot stew.
Though the dinner wasn't cost-effective, the dining environment was great. Even the ceiling had a design flair.
After dinner, it was free time. For me, no activity was more suitable than photography.
The hotel lobby on the first floor was elegant.
The lounge area behind the lobby—I loved this design style.
The chandelier was very beautiful.
Even the library had style.
The garden restaurant on the first floor was pleasing to the eye.
The tree-shaped lamp created a nice atmosphere.
Other areas of the restaurant.
Stepping outside, compared to the slightly warm Harbin, Changbai Mountain was obviously cooler. At night, there was even a chill.
So it was time to soak in the authentic Julong Hot Spring of Changbai Mountain.
A new day began.
I had hoped for a sunny day, but opening the window, the ground was wet—it had rained last night. Meanwhile, the distant Changbai Mountain was half-hidden in clouds. Seeing the legendary Heaven Lake didn't look optimistic.
Anyway, we had already lowered our expectations. As long as we could go up the mountain, we could say we had been there.
In the morning, I couldn't resist taking a picture of the hotel lobby.
As an early riser, I arrived at the restaurant just as breakfast was starting.
As a five-star resort hotel, breakfast had even more choices—slightly better than the Habsburg Hotel.
Since we had to climb the mountain, we ate a big breakfast, elegantly stuffing ourselves.
I thought the egg tarts at Habsburg were good, but the ones at the Crowne Plaza were even better. Other foods were delicious too.
After breakfast, no news was good news—we hadn't received any notification of mountain closure.
Just after 8:30, the hotel's designated car was waiting outside the lobby to take us to the transfer center on the North Slope.
About half an hour later, we arrived at the transfer center. Rows of buses parked here were spectacular.
To go to Heaven Lake, we needed to take a shuttle from the transfer center. The biggest advantage of the Crowne Plaza was that it could issue a VIP letter. With this invincible A4 paper, we could use the fast track, completely ignoring the long queues.
Although having VIP access was great, facing moderate rain on the main peak, even VIP was helpless.
The shuttle ride to Heaven Lake took about 20 minutes. Going through countless sharp turns, we were tossed left and right, making our hearts race. But we had to admire the driver's skills—they should be in a Fast & Furious movie.
Finally, we reached the summit of Changbai Mountain at an altitude of 2,620 meters, a new personal record.
The summit was cold, with single-digit temperatures. Tourists rented or brought winter clothes to keep warm.
Look at the number of tourists—summer at Changbai Mountain was indeed popular.
Arriving at the legendary Heaven Lake, but the surroundings were all white. No need to guess—no luck.
Many tourists were still patiently waiting for a miracle.
The summit was not only cold but also extremely windy, nearly blowing me away. My pride in my weight was useless. Strong gusts mixed with raindrops made me look miserable.
Although we couldn't see Heaven Lake, some optimistic girls were taking photos with the misty lake.
My colleague was decisive—he directly chose to leave against the flow.
Although we missed Heaven Lake today, we had planned two days for the North Slope, giving a 50% chance. If not today, then tomorrow. So we could only hope for tomorrow.
Returning the same way to the transfer center, we visited the hot spring square next.
A small stream beside the square entrance.
At the hot spring square, new boardwalks were being built.
But the rain was getting heavier. Without a raincoat, it was almost impossible to continue. Such weather made sightseeing a misery. However, as we walked, we gradually accepted it—walking in the rain had its own charm, as long as we focused on the scenery.
A hot spring vent beside the boardwalk.
Everywhere, small streams.
Passing through a forest.
Crossing a small bridge.
The sky remained gloomy.
Crossing another small stream.
Continuing along the boardwalk, we saw Changbai Mountain Waterfall in the distance.
The water from Heaven Lake flowed into this small stream.
At the end of the boardwalk, we couldn't go further.
On the way to the next stop, I took a long exposure shot of the stream.
Tropical rainforest on the high mountain.
Despite the heavy rain, tourists kept coming.
Besides Heaven Lake, another attraction was Silver Ring Lake, also known as Little Heaven Lake.
Though we didn't see the big Heaven Lake, Little Heaven Lake was clearly visible.
There are two theories about its formation, still a mystery. But the name Little Heaven Lake is more famous than Silver Ring Lake.
Around 2:30 PM, we finally had a late lunch at a small shop at the foot of the mountain. Only dumplings, a bit simple, but authentic Northeastern flavor.
Since the scenic area closed around 3:30 PM, besides the North Slope, we also had a trip to Erdaobaihe Town.
From the hotel, taking a chartered car to Erdaobaihe Town, we passed by another luxury resort hotel: In-Jeju Hotel.
The In-Jeju was our backup choice, but comparing prices, the Crowne Plaza had better advantages—newer facilities and closer distance.
Through the hotel's glass window, we spotted three alpacas.
One had a particularly stylish fringe.
Exploring inside the hotel led to a wonderful adventure:
First, we found a white peacock.
Walking further, we met a green peacock. Desperate for a restroom, I followed the peacock, taking photos while looking for the bathroom. Eventually, the peacock led us to the second-floor restroom successfully.
After fulfilling its mission, the green peacock led us back to the white peacock—absolutely perfect.
Ending our exploration of In-Jeju, we went to Meiren Song Park in the town.
The driver told us that Meiren Song (a type of pine tree) grows only in Erdaobaihe Town for some unknown reason. Each tree has its own ID number.
The trunks of Meiren Song are very straight.
Other plants in the park.
New leaves sprouting from a broken tree root.
As the first town at the foot of Changbai Mountain, Erdaobaihe's street signs were delicate.
The streets were clean, with a Japanese-style vibe.
Since this is a Korean autonomous region, we had to try authentic Korean cuisine.
Following the driver's recommendation, we went to a Korean restaurant called Xiao-Huang-Niu (Little Yellow Cattle).
The homemade millet wine was delicious.
Although Erdaobaihe is in Northeast China, compared to Northeastern cuisine, Korean dishes had normal portions. We ordered a full table and almost finished everything.
Korean cuisine must be similar to South Korean cuisine, being neighboring countries and both having bibimbap.
Rain had stopped.
After dinner, we strolled the streets. Before we knew it, it was getting dark—time to head back.
Amid these twinkling lights, the fourth day gradually came to an end.
Unknowingly, we had reached the last day of the trip. Whether the journey would be complete depended on this day.
Waking up early, before pulling the curtains, I hoped for sunny weather. Though there was a bit of blue sky, the entire Changbai Mountain peak was covered in clouds, showing nothing.
Though we had prepared for the worst, we still had hope, didn't we?
Since we were up too early, we had time to explore outside the hotel before breakfast.
The brief blue sky disappeared, and it even darkened a bit.
Beside the hotel entrance was the gate to Julong Volcanic Hot Spring. Crowne Plaza guests could enter directly from inside for free.
On the back side of the hotel, the large floor-to-ceiling windows revealed the lobby lounge area.
A light rain gradually intensified. Without an umbrella, I could only watch the indoor area from outside.
When the rain eased, I ran back to the restaurant. Though the rain adventure wasn't pleasant, a great breakfast helped me forget.
At 8:30 AM, when I stepped out again, the rain had stopped, and a large patch of blue sky appeared. I was excited.
When we boarded the bus, sunlight streamed in. It seemed there was hope to see Heaven Lake today.
But mountain weather can change anytime—we couldn't get too happy. At the transfer center, the weather on the mountain turned gloomy again, threatening rain at any moment.
According to plan, if the morning weather was bad, we would go to Heaven Lake in the afternoon. Only by going up could we know if we'd see it.
So in the morning, we decided to visit Green Abyss Pool first. Today's itinerary would cover the remaining attractions on the North Slope.
Returning to the transfer center from Heaven Lake, we took a bus to Green Abyss Pool. The weather cleared again—blue sky and green mountains formed a beautiful, fresh picture.
At the entrance of Green Abyss Pool.
Of course, this mini waterfall wasn't Green Abyss Pool.
The sky cleared further, but earlier it had rained heavily; the ground was wet.
Sunlight left tree shadows on the ground.
A small river beside, though the water looked a bit dirty.
Green Abyss Pool revealed itself—a small waterfall.
With the boost of blue sky, the chance to see Heaven Lake increased again. So we boarded the shuttle to Heaven Lake.
As altitude rose, the weather turned gloomy again.
Shuttles passed by one after another. Did the tourists on them see Heaven Lake?
Back at the summit of Changbai Mountain, it was still packed with people.
Compared to the previous day, while still a sea of white, at least there was no strong wind or rain.
Where was Heaven Lake? In everyone's hearts.
Near the lake, everyone waited for Heaven Lake to reveal its true face.
I was one of them.
I had already resigned to fate—this would be a reason to visit Changbai Mountain again. But my colleague firmly believed we could see it. As everyone prayed, suddenly a strange wind blew, weak sunlight appeared through cloud gaps, and the mist gradually dissipated. Heaven Lake, previously shrouded in white fog, finally showed its true appearance. Instantly, the crowd cheered!
The blue lake water, with layers of deep and light blue, was absolutely stunning!
Was that white snow in the distance?
Before the magnificent nature, humans are so tiny.
The mountains behind, with thin mist drifting by.
I thought the weather would improve further, giving us a chance to see Heaven Lake bathed in sunlight—that would be another feeling. But the mist thickened again, and the lake was once more covered in white fog.
We had successfully seen Heaven Lake, making this trip to Changbai Mountain complete. There was no need to ask for more.
Returning to the transfer center, the sky switched back to blue skies and white clouds, while the other side of Changbai Mountain peak remained gloomy. That's mountain weather: random switches with no fixed pattern.
The only fast-food restaurant on the North Slope, Lanjing, was next to the Green Abyss Pool entrance. We had lunch there.
After lunch, only one attraction remained on the North Slope: the Underground Forest.
Entering the Underground Forest, it was time for a Wizard of Oz journey.
Walking along the boardwalk, the end of the long path was the true Underground Forest.
A clear small stream, the source of the Songhua River—you could step across the river right there.
Lush vegetation around.
We encountered a little squirrel. A tourist fed it, and it immediately started eating, super cute.
On the way back, a touch of brightness appeared in the forest.
Sunlight broke through the clouds, illuminating the forest with holy rays. The second half of the Wizard of Oz took on a new flavor.
Tree shadows—aren't they beautiful?
Sunlight and blue sky behind the trees.
Between leaves, the romance of light and shadow.
Descending the mountain, the sky was completely clear. I wondered if later tourists saw Heaven Lake.
Under blue sky, my colleague seriously worked on photography skills.
Taking the chartered car back to the hotel, we enjoyed a lovely afternoon tea.
Since morning rain prevented us from exploring the hotel's backyard, the clear sky was a perfect opportunity.
The small pond in the backyard was beautifully serene.
The clear water might have been sourced from Heaven Lake.
At this moment, our hotel was bathed in sunlight.
In the back garden, there was a cute petting zoo. Follow the arrow and go in.
The most eye-catching building in the backyard, shaped like a snail, was actually a guest room.
Welcome to the petting zoo, full of cute animals.
The Crowne Plaza also had alpacas. One was eating very attentively.
Rabbits, sometimes cute, sometimes fierce.
An Alaskan Malamute, handsome and cute.
But occasionally it turned silly.
Was it infected by the neighboring Chow Chow?
A sika deer next door, hello!
A camel, shyly hiding in the house when seeing people.
The cutest were the group of pink piglets.
A small forest behind the hotel.
There was also a children's playground.
At 5 PM, sunlight turned golden. It was time to head back.
As per photographer's habit, I took a selfie as a memory.
Sitting in the car, watching the window, the sky gradually darkened.
The driver uncle told us that only one-third of the tourists today saw Heaven Lake. Timing is important; we were lucky.
Around 6:30 PM, we returned to Changbai Mountain Airport. After saying goodbye to the driver, we officially started our return journey.
Changbai Mountain Airport is being expanded. On the right is the old terminal, on the left the new modern terminal. In the future, the old terminal will also be renovated, greatly expanding the airport's capacity.
Roads under construction—the airport was half a construction site, making access inconvenient.
Since check-in hadn't started, we waited in the rest area/cafe next to the airport.
Our last dinner in Changbai Mountain, the final meal of the trip.
We experienced the mountain's changeable weather again: a beautiful sunset earlier, then heavy rain.
Finally, it was time for check-in. But no one expected an unexpected event waiting for us.
According to the airport announcement, due to weather conditions not meeting flight standards, our flight couldn't depart on time, and the departure time was unknown.
I checked the weather in Shanghai and flight status. Due to a thunderstorm cloud, the flight from Shanghai to Changbai Mountain couldn't arrive on time, which directly affected our return flight from Changbai to Shanghai.
Perhaps because I haven't taken many flights, this was my first experience of a flight delay.
At that moment, the airport terminal turned into a refugee camp. Staff distributed blankets and snacks.
Facing another delay with Spring Airlines, my colleague swore never to fly with them again, as he had experienced multiple return flights delayed for hours. Plus, Spring Airlines has a lower priority for takeoff. For me, having taken Spring Airlines six times with on-time departures and early arrivals, this was a completely opposite experience.
Perhaps because my colleague had me, his lucky charm with Spring Airlines, I somehow exerted some magic. The flight didn't delay too long. After about three hours, we finally boarded.
The flight originally scheduled for 10:30 PM finally departed at 1 AM. But compared to some travelers whose flights were delayed until 3 AM due to heavy rain on Changbai Mountain a few days earlier, our situation wasn't too bad.
As the brightly lit airport terminal gradually faded away, our journey was nearing its end.
Around 4 AM, we finally arrived at Shanghai Pudong International Airport.
Since we had to work the next day, we reached a hotel near the company at 5 AM. The sky was already bright. At this time on previous days, I would be getting up.
Switching from a five-star resort to a modest Home Inn was quite a downgrade.
Good night? Good morning?
After a whole night's ordeal, we could finally get a proper sleep—only three hours, but better than nothing.
