Harbin, Xuegu, Xuexiang, Erlanghe, Changchun 6-Day Relaxed Travel Guide
It seems like every southerner dreams of seeing snow, and I'm no exception. In 2018, I finally made it happen.
Snow is truly beautiful. So beautiful that it doesn't need any filter, so beautiful that it makes you forget the cold, so beautiful that you greedily want to hold the scenery in your arms.
I'd like to share this trip with you as a travel diary.
To avoid the New Year holiday crowds, we chose to start our journey on January 2nd. We flew directly from Shenzhen to Harbin, about 4 hours, arriving at Harbin Taiping Airport around 1 PM. (Airfare was 1518 RMB/person one-way). PS: Booking two months in advance would be cheaper, but I'm a chronic procrastinator. After getting off the plane, there are changing rooms at the baggage claim area, so no need to dress too thickly beforehand. At Harbin Airport, there is a bus to Central Street (20 RMB/person, about 40 minutes, once an hour). On the bus, travel agencies promote tours to Xuexiang and Yabuli, which is quite a rip-off; I suggest not joining local tours.
Saint Sophia Cathedral
After about two hours at the Ice and Snow World, we took the bus back the same way. Around 9:30 PM, feeling it was still early, we walked to Saint Sophia Cathedral (about 20 minutes).
But awkwardly, the three of us mistook the neighboring building for the cathedral. Really, procrastination and carelessness go hand in hand. To enter the cathedral, you need to go before 8 AM—there's a curfew.
On the way back, we bought a red sausage, ending the day's itinerary.
At around 7 AM, we lazily got up and had breakfast. Strolling along Harbin Street really gave a Russian vibe.
PS: Harbin is really full of handsome guys and beautiful women with great figures. We couldn't help but giggle like fangirls, looking like we had never seen the world before.
We originally thought we could take a Didi hitchhiker to Xuegu, taking it easy. Later, when Didi showed over 400 RMB, the actual fare was 1200-1500 RMB. Luckily, we called the driver to discuss the price—huge scam! But we weren't worried; we leisurely went to KFC on Central Street for coffee, watching the bustling street, quite carefree. Finally, my friend found a shared car to Xuegu (150 RMB/person, about 6 hours).
PS: If you book accommodation in Xuegu, you can ask the landlord to arrange a car to meet you at a designated spot in Harbin, or buy tickets on Taobao.
We arrived at the hostel at past 6 PM; it was already dark.
We stayed at Xuegu Youjia Inn (166 RMB/night, triple room).
The landlady was a great cook. The three of us ordered home-style dishes—three dishes and a soup—and couldn't finish two-thirds of it because the portions were huge and delicious. (About 220 RMB, not cheap but not too expensive.)
After dinner, we watched a Northeast Errenzhuan (folk performance) booked through the landlady at 60 RMB/person. (PS: Personally, I didn't find it particularly good; you could skip it.)
Since we planned to hike across the next day, we bought some water and snacks for energy in Xuegu.
Strangely, I met two alumni from the same year there, and we started the next day's hike together.
After watching the Errenzhuan, the landlady let us try frozen Northeastern persimmons—they were really hard...
Under the eaves, everyone ate, chatted, and joked. It was lively and felt wonderful.
Early the next morning, we got up around 6 AM to take photos of water spraying and watch the sunrise.
Haha, the spray wasn't very successful...
I was too lazy and only tried once.
You must use hot water. For photos, you can use TikTok or slow-motion videos and then screenshot—great!
After breakfast, the landlord gave us a free ride to the foot of Yangcao Mountain. We needed to buy tickets (40 RMB/person, cash only).
The scenery along the way was picturesque. No filter needed for photos—beautiful.
Be sure to bring snow claws and gaiters; otherwise, it's hard to climb. The author's shoe soles were slippery—luckily, I bought a walking stick. Attach hand warmers to phones; they often freeze and shut down.
You don't need many layers for climbing (down jacket + thermal underwear, plus two hand warmers will do). There's a lot of exercise, so you won't get cold easily.
Bring snacks to replenish energy.
First glimpse of snow-covered pines—it was breathtaking, like a real painting.
I wanted to stay longer and take in more.
After about three and a half hours, we reached the summit, exhausted, and wanted a warm place to recharge.
So we went there... entry cost 10 RMB, with a cup of tap water... instant noodles 15 RMB, hot water another 10 RMB...
Later we discovered that at the ticket booth next door, tap water was free, there were vending machines, and instant noodles cost 5 RMB.
On the way down the mountain...
From Yangcao Mountain, we arrived at Xuexiang (ticket 95 RMB/person, includes two bus tickets for luggage).
We originally planned to stay in Xuexiang, but the author mistakenly booked a room in Erlanghe, so we had to part ways temporarily with our fellow travelers. We crossed Xueyun Avenue to the end, took a bus with our tickets to pick up luggage previously sent from Xuegu's landlord, then returned to Erlanghe.
The driver was arranged by the Erlanghe landlord to pick us up; we just waited at the designated spot. Erlanghe is 40 km from Xuexiang; the fare was 50 RMB/person, taking about an hour.
In the morning in Xuexiang, the mushroom-shaped snow was amazing. Our friends stayed in Xuexiang, paying around 460 RMB per night for a double kang (heated bed), and meals were cheap. Given the notorious rip-off incidents in Xuexiang, we were wary. But in reality, with thorough planning, you won't be cheated. Just don't trust cheap local tours—you might get ripped off instantly.
In Erlanghe, we stayed at Lengyanbin Inn (477 RMB for two nights, a five-person kang was huge—book early for cheaper rates; don't be like the author and procrastinate).
That evening, the three of us had two dishes: braised pork ribs with sauerkraut, and braised local pork with vegetables, plus Northeast rice, costing about 120 RMB.
Since we hadn't researched Erlanghe, we thought it was the same as Xuexiang—carefree, haha. We worried it might be boring or a scam.
Later, we realized that some things require experience to know if they're good or bad—a pleasant surprise.
The day after the hike, we planned to go skiing in Yabuli but gave up because we couldn't get up in time.
Around 11 AM, we leisurely washed up and went out to eat again. This time, we had Northeast barbecue, suan cai (sauerkraut) pork, and shredded potatoes. I have to say, Northeast barbecue is really different from Southern barbecue—very fragrant! We couldn't control our appetites, and the three of us staggered out full—costing 190 RMB.
After eating, we strolled around and went back for a nap.
In the afternoon, our friends from Xuexiang joined us. We had a snowball fight and built a snowman for the first time.
That evening, the five of us had three dishes and a soup, averaging 39 RMB per person.
Afterwards, we went to the Erlanghe ticket office to buy tickets back to Harbin (50 RMB/person).
I really liked this place.
A small village with dozens of farmhouses huddled together, original white snow on roofs, red lanterns contrasting with the snow—lively appearances and quiet souls.
By day, cooking smoke rose; at night, stars dotted the sky. It wasn't overly commercialized, like a hidden paradise untouched by outsiders.
Simple folk, warm hospitality, and steaming hot dishes felt like warm currents flowing through my heart—a taste of happiness.
I loved the relaxation that comes from wandering the quiet streets and letting my mind wander and empty.
I loved the comfort of quietly bathing in that armor-clad soul's sense of peace.
At 10 AM, we took the bus back to Harbin, reluctantly bidding farewell to this tranquil place.
After about 3 hours, we returned to Harbin and said goodbye to our travel friends. At Qiulin, we bought red sausages as specialties, had a late lunch—sliced pork in chili sauce, sweet potato sugar coating, and braised bones. This time, we staggered out and packed leftovers; portions were huge—133 RMB.
In the evening, we took a train from Harbin West to Changchun (109 RMB/person, 1 hour).
Thanks to a friend of a buddy, we tried the most famous barbecue in Changchun. It was super delicious—again, staggered out.
We headed straight to a KTV in Changchun and sang. The usually early-to-bed Changchun locals stayed up with us three girls from Guangdong until 2 AM—truly grateful for the hospitality.
We stayed at Wanjia Hotel, 138 RMB/night—by Shenzhen standards, a luxury room.
We slept in until naturally waking up. Friends in Changchun warmly treated us to breakfast, then we quickly parted ways.
Our flight was originally at 4:30 PM, but despite a 96% on-time rate, it was delayed by 5 hours. Be sure to bring food inside; otherwise, you'll starve—there's little to eat inside. (Airfare 1360 RMB/person.)
The roads we've traveled, the scenery we've seen, and the feelings we've held are like brushes painting our lives with long strokes—so we can't easily hand in a blank page.
A pair of fleece-lined, slip-resistant snow boots
Two pairs of fleece-lined, thick leggings
Two fleece-lined, thick thermal undershirts
Two regular thermal undershirts
30 hand warmers
PS: Can buy on 1688 for much cheaper.
Table of Contents:
1. First Snow
2. Day 1: Shenzhen – Harbin
3. Day 2: Xuegu
4. Day 3: Hiking Yangcao Mountain – Xuexiang
5. Day 4: Erlanghe
6. Day 5: Harbin – Changchun
7. Day 6: Changchun – Shenzhen
8. Reflections and Notes
9. Items to Prepare