First Impressions of Northeast China
After two years of being unable to travel outside the province due to YQ, this year the situation is improving. Considering the weather and distance, I chose Dalian, which is closer to Yantai, and headed north!
Day 1: Ferry - Dalian IKEA - Blackstone Beach
We took the car on the ferry to cross the sea. Tickets were 180 per person, and 600 for the car. When traveling independently, I still prefer driving, so we don't have to drag luggage around everywhere. It also reduces the risk of taking public transportation. This was my son's first time on a big ship, and he was a bit excited.
We bought deck tickets but were upgraded for free. However, being close to the engine, the cabin was quite noisy—you get what you pay for. The wind on the deck was strong. The seagulls wouldn't eat the bread we offered; they might have been fed too much already. The viewing platform on top cost an extra 10 yuan, but it just gets you a bit closer to the sky, and the view was nothing special. We didn't go up. Sailing on the sea felt very lonely. Apart from a few small islands near the shore when we set off, all we could see ahead was the vast ocean. The six-hour journey passed with eating, drinking, and sleeping. When we arrived at the New Port, which was still a bit far from the city center, we had to wait a while for the car to disembark. As soon as we got off, a "Dabai" (staff in protective gear) did a nucleic acid test. After that, we took a test every two days to keep a 48-hour negative certificate, which hotels sometimes checked.
We stayed at the Dalian Modern Club Experience Apartment on Zhongshan Road, a very vintage and romantic little apartment. We got the room we wanted with two double beds separated by a partition. It looked exactly like the photos. We never saw the landlord; the door code was sent to my phone, which was very convenient. I visited this city in 2007, and it feels a bit declined now. After 10 p.m., there were hardly any people on the streets, and many park buildings looked worn out. I read online that blue tears might appear this season, so after settling into the guesthouse, we set out to find them. My husband kept saying discouraging things like we wouldn't see them, but I held onto my luck. After some searching, we finally made our little wish come true!
Blue tears are a kind of bioluminescent algae. They are invisible in calm seawater at night, but when the wind stirs up waves crashing against rocks, or when you artificially agitate the water, they magically appear. The faint blue glow, like elf magic, appeared at our feet, and the joy turned into screams of excitement. This happiness was impossible to hide and infected the people around us. A few young people lingering by the seaside also started throwing stones into the water, and our sense of unfamiliarity faded away. We began discussing how to make the blue tears appear more and last longer.
At first, following the navigation, we went through a few small alleys to the free parking lot of the Dalian Natural History Museum. There were hardly any people around, and it was pitch dark. I felt a mix of anticipation and excitement for the unknown. After parking, we walked west and saw a brightly lit bridge. We walked down the wooden boardwalk along the sea and threw some stones into the water. Whether it was an illusion or real, we vaguely saw a bit of blue light, but it was disappointing. A bit frustrated but not giving up, we walked east along the rocks. The wet black rocks reflected the city lights under the night, giving them a metallic texture. Under the flashlight, we realized this was the Blackstone Reef Geological Park—no wonder it was so beautiful!
Continuing east, the water surface here was calmer, and we couldn't see the bridge lights. I threw a stone into the water, and it actually shimmered with blue fluorescence! Finally, I had found the blue tears! So I ran and jumped in the water, using both hands and feet to make it glow. Unfortunately, the camera couldn't capture its most beautiful form; only by seeing it with your own eyes can you appreciate its magic. We didn't leave until almost midnight. There was a staircase with climbing ivy on both sides leading directly to the boardwalk above, which led to the left side where we parked. If we had turned left earlier, we might have discovered them sooner. But it wasn't a regret, because we saw more scenery, and the twists and turns made the surprise even more precious.
Day 2: Tiger Beach Ocean Park - Venice Water Town
Today we took our child to the ocean park. Never tired of watching animals, with a childlike heart that never fades. The fawn stole my heart. The lonely polar bear made me feel pity. Its current state can only be described as barely surviving. With its shrinking wild habitat and increasingly scarce food, I wonder if living in that small enclosure is good or bad for it. It reminds me of the stray dog I adopted; does he feel happy being alone at home every day? Would he be happier as a stray dog, living freely? It's hard to choose between a short but happy life and a long, tedious existence.
At the Petting Zoo, you need to buy feed for the animals, around 30 yuan, including carrots and grass. There are quite a few species: raccoons, tortoises, mini pigs, alpacas, ponies, and sika deer. The alpacas will stretch their necks to snatch the grass from your hand, not being polite at all.
The Polar Pavilion and Coral Pavilion have common marine life found in most aquariums. We stayed at the Seal Pavilion for a long time, didn't see any show, just watched people feeding them, enjoying the shade and eating watermelon to cool off.
Watching the seals lazing around and lying flat was really funny. When admiring animals, you forget all the worries in life.
By the way, the Coral Pavilion is on the right side of the main entrance. It's easy to miss if you go around, so I suggest visiting it first after entering the park. From Seal Bay, we reached the seaside. There was a water jetpack show and a zipline across the sea. I gathered my courage but didn't dare to ride. We had to walk across a bridge to reach the Bird Garden. Fortunately, it was cool at the bridgehead; we had some fast food and rested, which was quite pleasant. The squid here was really good; we tasted it and bought more. 15 yuan for a whole one, very affordable.
After crossing the bridge, we went through a small gate and a parking lot to reach the lush Bird Forest. If the weather were cooler, we could better appreciate these little creatures. There were many free-range birds of various shapes, some species we had never seen before. For example, a bird with a beak like a spatula could flexibly pick up food—evolution is amazing. There was also a small theater with parrot shows. My favorite flamingos were trapped inside a rope net; their intelligence is worrying. They could easily get out of the cage, but they stayed obediently in that small space. Maybe they cherished their feathers too much and lost the freedom to fly.
Leaving the bird garden, we didn't have the strength to walk back to the main entrance, so we took an unlicensed taxi. After visiting the Coral Pavilion, my son went to play foam battle with a clown. The entertainment value of the park is okay—I'd give it 3.5 out of 5. The food stalls outside the Polar Pavilion were too noisy, with loudspeakers competing with each other, affecting the experience. After a tiring half day, we drove to a guesthouse near Venice Water Town to rest, planning to see the night view later. We booked the Blue Island Apartment Water Town branch, but it was actually a few stops away from the water town. Afraid of losing our parking spot if we drove, we had to take a taxi.
Venice Water Town is a commercial area made up of European-style buildings, mostly restaurants. Some shops with signs were dark. I'm not sure if it's due to poor business or the pandemic. Apart from a few restaurants with some customers, there were hardly any people. A small river runs through the town, with electric gondolas floating around at night. Take photos to pretend you're in Europe. The night view is also beautiful.
Let's try Dalian barbecue and see if it's different from Yantai barbecue. Grilled pancake is a specialty—crispy pancake brushed with sauce, rolled with green onions. As a Shandong native, I found it very agreeable. The other flavors were similar, after all, separated by the sea, the cuisines on both sides are quite alike.
After dinner, we strolled along the street to Donggang. First, we were attracted by some colorful lights floating on the sea; on closer look, they turned out to be cable cars. Further ahead, we were drawn by spurting flames. The jetpack show here had fireworks, shining even brighter in the night. My son insisted on taking the subway. Leaving Donggang, we went to the commercial area again. Unexpectedly, the malls closed early. Apart from some people singing karaoke on the street, live streamers, and a few small shops still open, there were almost no pedestrians. It can't compare to the nightlife of Beijing, Shanghai, or Guangzhou.
Day 3: Dalian - Tonghua
In the morning, we woke up naturally. We drove around looking for a nucleic acid testing point, finally ended up at a hospital, waited in line, and paid for the test. It was almost noon when we set off. We set our destination to Tonghua City, which is about a 2-hour drive from the west slope of Changbai Mountain, planning to rest there and head up the mountain the next day. Compared to the accommodation and dining near the scenic area, staying in a smaller county town is definitely a good money-saving option. I have to give credit to my husband for this strategy. The scenery along the way was also beautiful. We encountered a big rainbow.
We stayed at Tonghua Jianyi Light Luxury E-sports Hotel. At first, we were excited about playing games, but later in the night, we were tortured by the noise from the guests next door, almost having a nervous breakdown. Not recommended for older people. The hotel itself was nice—clean, with disposable earphone covers and free snacks.
Next to the hotel, there was a newly opened private kitchen restaurant called Blue Harbor. The Guobao Rou (fried pork in sweet and sour sauce) was delicious, but a bit greasy. The celery with shrimp was refreshing. Ordering mackerel dumplings in the mountains seemed a bit out of place; they had more meat than fish, and the flavor was light. They also gave us a free jug of watermelon juice. The boss was too generous—highly recommended.
Day 4: Tonghua - West Slope of Changbai Mountain
We booked tickets online the day before through the Changbai Mountain official account and set off with renewed energy. My husband chose not to take the highway but a rural route, where we could stop anytime to enjoy the scenery—a wise choice. The weather was cloudy with occasional showers, and I worried we might not see Tianchi (Heavenly Lake). But just before arriving, the sky cleared up, revealing a bright blue sky and sunshine—all my worries were unnecessary.
This was the first time I saw how wood ear mushrooms grow.
There was no cell signal in the mountains, but the summer temperature was 19°C. Even wearing a long-sleeved jacket, it was still a bit cold.
The West Slope distribution center was built in a somewhat Russian style, surrounded by shops. We bought raincoats and shoe covers just in case, but luckily, we didn't need them. Around 11 a.m., we took the bus up the mountain. There were tourists coming down, looking dejected, which meant they hadn't seen Tianchi. It must have been raining all morning, and the ticket checker said it even hailed. Because of the pandemic, we didn't have to queue much to get on the bus; no waiting for a ride. Or maybe there were fewer people on the west slope, as it requires more physical effort.
Along the way, we passed through Erman birch forest, coniferous forest, and reached the tundra zone. Every step revealed a different view, too beautiful to capture. The buildings and stone paths were all made from local volcanic rocks.
As soon as we got off the bus, we shivered from the cold and quickly put on our jackets. In mid-to-late July, as long as it doesn't rain, you don't need a down jacket on Changbai Mountain—just a spring/fall jacket is enough. Timing is important; usually, it clears up around noon. As we climbed, clouds were chasing us from behind. To see Tianchi before the clouds covered it, we climbed desperately. Although the elevation didn't seem high, climbing was quite challenging, especially racing against the weather. We didn't take breaks, just caught our breath and kept going. People coming down encouraged us, saying Tianchi was right ahead.
Finally, we reached the top. First, we queued at the best spot on the viewing platform to have our photo taken together, then savored her beauty. The first sight of her calm water moved me. Like a mirror embedded in a rock pedestal, reflecting the sky, it felt like we could travel to another world through it. Looking around the lake, there were no living creatures, no trace of the legendary monster. Maybe it's just a gimmick to attract tourists. Within half an hour of our summit, Tianchi was covered by dark clouds. But we had already seen it, so no regrets. We sat on the viewing platform, taking in the beauty. If you can't climb, you can hire a sedan chair—they charge by weight.
Going down was relaxed; we walked slowly and rested often. The wooden corridors provided ample resting spots for tourists, serving as natural frames for photos. We casually photographed small streams, flowers, and berries, slowly appreciating the wonders of nature.
We photographed the clouds climbing the mountain. The iris and alpine flower meadows had passed their bloom, but that highlighted the scattered flowers and grasses by the streams and hillsides, dotting the mossy tundra, making them especially vibrant. We perfectly timed our visit to catch the three hours when Tianchi was fully visible—so lucky! We descended around 2 p.m., just in time for the last bus to the Grand Canyon. The sky remained clear all the way down, completely different from the weather at the top.
In the canyon, centuries-old tree stumps witness the transformation of the surrounding area. They remain in place, recording the passage of time with their rings. It's our fortune to see such lush forests today, even though in the distant past, the earth was their domain, and humans have gradually encroached on their territory, leaving them little home. I hope future generations can continue to enjoy everything nature gives us.
In the forest valley, there were many chipmunks, clever and cute, accepting food from humans. Unfortunately, tourists carelessly or intentionally left litter, creating an eyesore. I wanted to take a photo with only the animals, but there was always trash in the frame. I wished I could pick it all up, but it's hard to step off the wooden boardwalk. I hope everyone raises their environmental awareness!
As we walked into the valley, we were attracted by bird calls that sounded like human voices. We could hear them but not see them. We imitated their sounds and laughed at ourselves. A dozen or so tourists soon dispersed, leaving us to enjoy the solitude of the forest. Some fallen trees continued to provide nutrients for surrounding saplings, so life seemed to continue, sustaining the forest's vitality. I hope they never get destroyed. Besides trees, there were rift valleys formed by tectonic movements. Rock formations in various shapes were given vivid names by people, like Peacock Spreading Its Tail or Two-humped Camel. Most were indescribable but awe-inspiring stone forests. Let your imagination run wild here.
We left the scenic area around 5 p.m. and went to find food. At a local Northeastern restaurant in the town, we ordered two dishes and finished one and a half plates. The chicken stewed with mushrooms was enormous—a whole basin full—and very flavorful. There was also a local mushroom stir-fried with meat, absolutely delicious. Total cost was just over 200 yuan—no rip-off. I later heard some tourists were charged 500 yuan for a chicken dish at Changbai Mountain, so be sure to ask about prices before ordering. Typically, a free-range chicken at a street-side restaurant costs around 100 yuan.
After a good meal, we went to our accommodation. This hotel was a huge surprise. For a little over 200 yuan, we stayed in a resort. The Squirrel Nest Inn—by its name, I thought it would be a small guesthouse, but it turned out to be an investment-type resort hotel with various room types from apartments to villas. Changbai Mountain is indeed a great summer retreat. It's also an excellent choice for snow in winter. The hotel offered free afternoon tea and even a chance to pet dogs. We met Masha, an Alaskan Malamute who loved to nuzzle her big head into your lap for petting—she was very gentle. The free breakfast was also very rich; I especially remember the local wood ear mushrooms and blueberry jam.
Day 5: Songjianghe Forest Park Hike - North Slope
Worth mentioning: the hotel lobby offered free mountain bike rentals, one per person, so we went cycling. The weather wasn't great, but we set off anyway. We cycled excitedly and soon reached Songjianghe Forest Park. Because it was drizzling, the path was slippery. As soon as we entered the wooden boardwalk, at a sharp turn, I fell off the bike, landing hard on my butt. Luckily, it was a wooden surface, no serious injury. The bike became a burden inside the park, so we found a fence to lock it and started hiking. Passing through a birch forest, I played a song by Pu Shu on my phone; it felt like a music video. Some parts of the path were worn out, so we had to be careful. Because of the weather and the pandemic, we only met three other tourists in the whole park. Lucky to find such a great place with few people and beautiful scenery—we had it all to ourselves. While taking shelter from the rain, we chatted with a woman sitting under a pavilion. She was from a nearby town and had bought a house here for vacation. The deep forest was eerily quiet; I heard there were often snakes. Knowing the risks, we still went deeper for the thrill of exploration. We learned about many trees and read about ginseng harvesters from information boards. Apart from a few brightly colored big spiders, we didn't encounter any other animals.
After lunch at a small restaurant near the park entrance, the rain still showed no sign of stopping. Time was limited, so we bought a cheap disposable raincoat for my son—it was terrible. Why terrible? Because it wasn't suitable for cycling; the wide pant legs kept getting caught in the chain or pedals. The pants kept falling off while riding. We had to stop several times, and finally, we just tore them off. Watching him look miserable in the rain, I couldn't help but laugh unkindly (even though I, soaked to the bone, wasn't much better). The cycling trip back to the hotel was a bit rough, but the joy of riding in the rain was unforgettable. The wet clothes and mud spots on my back were like marks of happy memories. Back at the hotel, we quickly dried our hair and changed into dry clothes. The front desk was generous and let us check out later. We packed up and had free afternoon tea in the lobby. I liked their pine nuts, so I asked, and it turned out they sold souvenirs. So we bought pine nuts and ginseng, plus the dandelion root tea we'd been drinking since check-in—it was fragrant, not bitter, and helped clear heat and detox. The drive to the North Slope took just over an hour. Along the way, we saw signs warning of wildlife crossing. I hoped to spot a silly roe deer, but we didn't see any. We drove slowly, admiring the dense forest by the roadside. Bathed in light rain, it felt like traveling through The Wizard of Oz. If a rabbit in clothes suddenly jumped out, I wouldn't be surprised—I might even get out and follow it on an adventure. There were huge Christmas trees by the road; I wondered if animals gathered there for parties at night.
In the evening, we arrived at the commercial street of Songjianghe Town, where the North Slope scenic area is located. It was noticeably more bustling and commercialized than the West Slope, and room rates were double. But a local friend said it's not as good as previous years; without the pandemic, the prices would be even higher. We stayed at the Chuxi Shanju Li hotel's forest room, which was a duplex with spacious and clean bathrooms.
A local police friend took us to see the police dog training base deep in the mountains. The Malinois were too alert; they jumped and barked wildly at strangers. The Springer Spaniels were friendly; even without tails, you could feel their enthusiasm from their wiggling bottoms. We dared not open the cages, or they would jump and get us muddy. Listening to our friend tell stories about these well-trained little creatures, then seeing their living conditions, I felt a big contrast. They only get bathed and groomed before missions, and after today's rain, they looked dirty. But their简陋 living conditions didn't affect their excellent detection abilities. I hope they all get adopted into good homes after retirement and spend their old age comfortably.
I highly recommend an authentic Korean barbecue place called Qin Qin Barbecue. Their sauces are secret recipes, never shared. It's a hidden gem only locals know. It's a bit far from the busy commercial street, but good wine needs no bush—the place was full of customers. I tried corn rice wine for the first time; it had a strong corn juice flavor with a slight alcoholic taste from fermentation. If not for the short shelf life, I would have taken a jug home. We grilled our own meat and wrapped it in pickled perilla leaves with kimchi—so delicious! They grill all sorts of strange cuts beyond imagination. My friend strongly recommended the corn noodles, but I was too full to have more than a bite. I can confirm that the Northeast really produces a lot of corn.
After the meal, we strolled along the streets. Cars were parked on both sides, but few were moving—I wondered where everyone was spending their nightlife. We bought cheap and tasty blueberries and local Changbai specialties: ginseng, wood ear mushrooms, and pine nuts. Then we wandered into the Korean Cargo store across from the hotel—a supermarket that really won my heart. I bought a bunch of Korean snacks and cosmetics—time to cut off my hands again.
Day 6: North Slope
Early morning was sunny, and we could take off our jackets. Yesterday felt like autumn; today had a hint of summer. Arriving at the North Slope distribution center, I felt this was what a five-star scenic area should look like. Tourists were directed to waiting areas in an orderly manner—busy but well-organized. The total queuing time was less than half an hour, quite fast. First, we took a bus from the town into the mountain; it was a fairly long ride of about half an hour. Once inside, to see Tianchi, we needed to buy another ticket to go up the mountain, costing several hundred yuan more. Since we had already seen it yesterday, we gave up on seeing it again. What is unique is precious. It was a good choice to leisurely explore the waterfall, forest, and eat eggs at the base. If you've already visited the West Slope or the newly developed South Slope, you might skip seeing Tianchi from the North Slope—judging from other tourists' photos, you can only glimpse a small part through a rock crevice, nowhere near the panoramic view from the West or South slopes.
At the base, observing the surrounding slopes, I noticed that the terrain was prone to landslides. Sure enough, a few days after our trip, I heard news of a landslide on the North Slope of Changbai Mountain, though fortunately no one was hurt. When traveling, always pay attention to the weather.
Following the left wooden boardwalk up a certain distance, you can see the waterfall. Along the way, you can touch the stream formed by underground springs—it's warm, and the riverbed is yellowed by sulfur. Coming down via the right boardwalk, you see the water from Tianchi flowing down through the waterfall, which is cold and clear, as blue as glass. It's like the fusion of ice and fire, eventually merging and flowing into the distance.
Between the two boardwalks is a shallow area inaccessible, with scattered enclosed or inconspicuous natural hot springs—like the Earth's eyes, observing the world. Steam rises from the underground hot springs, while the water from Tianchi is very calm and clear—a stark contrast. The plants here are amazing; they can survive and thrive in hot water.
After easily walking along the boardwalk, you need to climb a steep stone staircase to see the waterfall. Signs along the way encourage visitors: just a little more effort and you'll see it. Before reaching the top, you could hear the roar of the waterfall. So we quickened our pace eagerly. Although you can't get very close to feel its power, you can sense it from the mist-like spray and the rushing water. The rock near the waterfall looked very loose, as if a strong wind could blow down countless gravel. That's why visitors aren't allowed too close.
When tired, have a hot spring egg. Indeed, it's different from eggs we boil at home—the yolk is mostly cooked, while the white is still liquid. I ate two. After replenishing energy, we continued to visit other spots: Lesser Tianchi, and the forest.
Various wonders in the forest were astonishing. The "Floating Rock" was square and regular, as if cut by hand, looking like a Transformer's energy cube. Many small branches were propped under it, probably for blessings, similar to the small sticks tourists insert in crevices at Wuyi Mountain. Folk customs are interesting. A fallen tree had been completely uprooted and placed upside down, like a natural umbrella or a plant from Avatar. Human imagination is largely inspired by nature. After hiking about halfway through the forest, we sat down to rest. Hearing from returning tourists that the scenery ahead was similar and it would be tiring, we turned back. Goodbye, beautiful Changbai Mountain.
Back in town, we went to try the Korean rice cake we had been craving. It was a bit disappointing—the rice wasn't pounded fine enough; you could still feel grains. But I have to admire the Korean uncle's meticulousness: after every two pounds, he wiped off splattered rice. Watching his slow pace, I wanted to help.
Day 7: Harbin
We arrived in Harbin at noon. Exiting the highway, we almost got lost in the looping overpasses; the three-dimensional traffic confused even the navigation. We went to Portman Western Restaurant to experience authentic Russian cuisine. The restaurant has been the filming location for many movies, with posters at the entrance. A handsome Russian guy takes your number at the door—online numbers are invalid. While waiting, we toured this restaurant full of vintage charm. Every corner seems to have a story, but you need time and patience to feel and listen.
The crisp white tablecloths and shiny teapots reflect the restaurant's service standards. Every dish we ordered was excellent, except the pizza. After all, it's not a Russian specialty, and probably few people order it here, but frozen store-bought crust and canned fruit topping were too slapdash. The desserts were average, nothing special. I highly recommend the braised lamb in a jar, thick-cut steak, and creamy mixed dish. The small jar held a lot; the lamb soup had a tomato flavor, great with bread. The lamb was tender and not at all gamey. The waiter poured vodka over the steak on a cart by the table and lit a small fire, letting us witness the birth of the dish. It was served on a hot crystal plate to keep warm. The mixed dish was our favorite cheesy style, with a thick, stretchy crust, surrounded by a border of mashed potatoes, and filled with ham, mushrooms, and meat cooked in cream. A high-calorie comfort. We ordered too much for three people; we packed the mixed dish and dessert.
We stayed at the Atour Hotel near Nangang District Government. Consistent quality, but the only inconvenience was the parking lot was a bit far—a five or six-minute walk to an underpass. Luckily, the fee was reasonable. The next day's rate was over 30 yuan cheaper than the weekend. After a short rest, we took a taxi to Central Street! Although I had seen pictures many times, seeing the long-desired Saint Sophia Cathedral in person was still exciting. Surrounded by many modern buildings that clash with it, the cathedral itself is very charming. It has a typical Eastern Orthodox appearance with a dark green dome, inclusive and grand. The dark red bricks are neatly arranged, precise and meticulous. Inside, the walls display some paintings, and there was a small concert on stage. No worshippers praying, but quietly enjoying a piece of music can also cleanse the soul. You can get a themed postcard from the coffee shop behind the cathedral with your ticket. Around dusk, looking at the cathedral against the light, it looked even more magnificent and imposing, almost oppressive. I love seeing various churches. Although my soul hasn't truly belonged to any lord, I believe there must be a powerful force that governs everything. This belief deepened after I finished reading The Three-Body Problem.
The square where the cathedral is located is not large. One block to the left is Central Street. Along this pedestrian street paved with square stones are numerous European-style buildings from the Renaissance and Baroque periods, full of romance. There are century-old stores like Modern and the flagship store of the modern dairy company Wandashan. Old popsicles and fresh milk cones have different flavors, but both are cheap and delicious. The 5-yuan bulk Modern popsicle is different from the 10-yuan packaged ones sold elsewhere; you get what you pay for. I highly recommend the fresh milk cone at the south end of the street, also 5 yuan, with a strong milky taste. The long line at night scared us off, but we came back the next day just for this cone—once again revealing our foodie nature. For dinner, we had fruit yogurt, Modern bread, and Harbin red sausage. Yes, Modern not only sells popsicles but also bread, red sausage, restaurants, and hotels. I must recommend Modern's European bread—around 10 yuan, big ones, chocolate and cranberry flavors are both delicious. Freshly baked, they beat expensive pastries from dessert shops.
No hawking is allowed on the whole street, so shops come up with creative ideas. Balcony concerts, window bands—I don't know if they attract many customers, but they certainly catch eyes. Looking at the bustling crowds on the street, it looked like a scene of prosperity. I hope life stays this lively; with the hustle and bustle of the world, people can live happily.
Walking north along the street, we reached the Flood Control Monument on the banks of the Songhua River. Local residents were holding a grand singing and dancing performance on a splendid stage with brilliant lights—you wouldn't notice it was getting dark. A row of artists lined the street, drawing portraits for tourists.
Day 8: Harbin Museum - Chinese Baroque Cultural Scenic Street
The provincial museum was closed, so we went to the Harbin Museum, located in the former municipal party compound. This trip was really worthwhile. Show your health code and scan your ID for free entry. With few visitors, you can take your time to appreciate. The courtyard looks small, but there are four buildings to visit. We spent over two hours in Building No. 7 alone and still hadn't finished—so many treasures!
As soon as we entered the exhibition hall, I was captivated by 16th-century oil paintings with religious themes. In another room, the life of European royalty unfolded before us through exquisite furniture, decorations, and antique music boxes. You could imagine the extravagance of aristocratic life.
Building No. 7 not only houses modern exhibits but also contemporary works. The decoration changed from dark tones to bright pink. I really liked the arch design.
The evolution of cameras and a photography exhibition.
Building No. 1 is the former site of the Sino-Soviet Friendship Association, built in 1919 as a Renaissance-style eclectic building. It's called Building No. 1 because it was the earliest built in the compound. The original site was a traditional Chinese courtyard mansion, which housed the Jilin Railway Negotiation Bureau from 1898. The original building burned down in 1918, and in 1919 the Chinese Eastern Railway Company invested in building a new one. On October 18, 1945, the Sino-Soviet Friendship Association was established here, serving as an important base for the CPC's struggle against the Kuomintang, contributing to the liberation of Harbin and all of Northeast China. According to statistics, over the past hundred years, eight institutions and departments have worked here, witnessing Harbin's role as the "eldest son of the republic" in the development of New China. Info from the internet. Hehe.
This antique building mainly displays excavated ancient artifacts. Look at the knife-shaped coins invented by Wang Mang—don't they look like our keys? No wonder people say he was a time traveler. I was too tired to visit the last building. Slight regret. At noon, we went out for lunch and got a nucleic acid test. The heavy afternoon rain started just as we stepped into the restaurant. By the time we finished eating, it cleared up—we were really lucky.
Cold cuts platter of various pig parts—I ask my Harbin friends, what is this dish called? The corn porridge was delicious, with the aroma of popcorn.
In the afternoon, we headed to Jingyu Street outside the city. This pedestrian street is an open-air museum of Chinese Baroque architecture. Unfortunately, it was under renovation, with many buildings fenced off, looking desolate. Harbin, once the largest city in the Far East, has seen its prosperity overgrown with weeds. Searching for past glory among the mottled relics, aside from the temporary bustle brought by tourists, who else can see its former brilliance?
I slowly wandered through the alleys, trying to find stories of the past—and I did. Passing through an alley hung with oil-paper umbrellas, I learned that Xiao Hong, one of the four talented women of the Republic of China, once took shelter from the rain here, so it's called "Xiangyi Alley" (Alley of Mutual Dependence).
Kvass, a non-alcoholic beer-like drink. Freshly drawn tastes better than bottled.
We saw the century-old Zhang Bao Pu (steamed bun shop). Thinking it couldn't be bad, we ordered several flavors—all were disappointing. The best thing was the steamed yellow croaker with scallion oil. I wondered how they stayed in business for a century when their signature items were so mediocre. Their buns weren't even as good as the ones at our workplace cafeteria.
Day 9: Northeast Tiger Park
Today we went to see the big cats, hehe. The highlight is at the end. We rode the cage bus into the tiger park. The king of the forest completely ignored us, lounging in the shade or by the water. We bought a bucket of meat (about 10 strips) for 180 yuan to attract them. They looked as gentle as big tabby cats, not fierce at all. These tigers are much happier than those in zoos—large activity areas and plenty of food.
We almost missed the tiger cubs. The sign said "Petting Zoo," so I thought it would have only rabbits and such, but inside were three adorable tiger babies. I really wanted to shake their furry big paws. At noon, we caught the keeper feeding them—they ate a whole basin of meat and drank a bottle of milk. My son's dream was born: to become a zookeeper when he grows up!
It was sad to see the stone tablets listing extinct tiger species. So many tigers have disappeared, and some remaining species are endangered. I hope humans can coexist with animals and maintain nature's balance.
Day 10: Shenyang - Zhongjie - Imperial Palace
We stayed at the Atour Hotel Shenyang Zhongjie Forbidden City branch. The hotel was very smart, with robots delivering items to the room. Great location—within walking distance to shopping and attractions; quiet despite being in a busy area.
We were attracted by the online photos of Shengjing Longcheng's sky canopy, but when we arrived, it turned out to be a declining mall with few shops open. Zhongjie is lively at night.
In the Spring Food Alley, we had Li Ji Guobao Rou's snow-covered bean paste balls and Long Ji Shancheng's cold jelly two days in a row—still not enough! There was also a baked bun shop (I forgot its name) with flaky crusts; rose and meat flavors were both good. I also tried bean curd-stuffed flatbread at Hang Lung Plaza for the first time—it was delicious! We ate every bit. The topping tasted like scallion rolls, with green beans, potatoes, and ribs underneath.
Shenyang Imperial Palace was the royal palace used in the early Qing Dynasty. It's not big; you can finish touring in half a day. Free for minors. We encountered a live streamer; his commentary was interesting.
The Qing founder Nurhaci made Shenyang the capital and built the Dazheng Hall. Huang Taiji expanded it and formally named it the palace. After the capital was moved to Beijing, the Mukden Palace became the secondary capital palace, considered the sacred birthplace of the founding emperors and thus highly valued by successive rulers.
Day 11: Liaoning Science and Technology Museum - Museum
Both free venues are located in Shenyang's development zone, quite far from the city center, but well worth visiting. The interactive science museum was engaging for both adults and children. Covering various fields of science, it made us reluctant to leave. We stayed so long that we had only a short time to visit the adjacent museum before closing, rushing through it. Slight regret.
The science museum's exterior is very grand, and the lobby is full of technology, with a robot dog greeting visitors. Each floor has a science theme. Even we adults wanted to try everything.
As the first capital of the Qing Dynasty, it naturally houses many treasures. If not for foreign invasions, there would be even more. Cherish the present while remembering national humiliations! I marvel at the ancient artisans' ingenuity—Chinese craftsmanship never loses to the West. Look at this intricate gourd cloisonné, like a piece of nature relocated; the rotating ivory ball is unimaginable; and the color coordination of these jewelry pieces is so sophisticated.
We were still eager for more but had to end the day's trip. With that, our short Northeast journey came to an end. Until we meet again!
