A Southerner's Ice and Snow Dream
Travel dates: February 10-15, 2023 (6 days, 5 nights)
Route: Chengdu - Harbin - Snow Town - Harbin - Chengdu
Transportation: Airplane + Group tour (Snow Town 2-day tour)
Attractions: Central Street, Saint Sophia Cathedral, Snow Town, Sun Island, Snow Expo, Middle East Railway Bridge, Zhaolin Park, Stalin Park, Ice sculptures
Cost: 1500 RMB per person (excluding round-trip airfare between Chengdu and Harbin)
Harbin city spans both banks of the Songhua River, with low mountains, crisscrossing rivers, and vast plains. "Ice City," "Pearl under the Swan's Neck," "Oriental Moscow"—this northern city has been given many praises. Besides its silvery winter world of ice and snow, Harbin also boasts a cityscape with strong Russian character. These two factors attract more and more tourists to experience the charm of the ice city.
Harbin Taiping International Airport: An important transportation hub in Northeast China, about 33 km from downtown Harbin, and one of the three busiest international airports in Northeast China.
1. Airport Bus: There are 4 airport express lines serving different areas. Airport Bus Routes 1, 2, and 3 run every 30-40 minutes; Route 4 runs twice daily.
2. Taxi: The starting fare for taxis in Harbin is 8 RMB (for 3 km), then 1.9 RMB per km during the day and 2.5 RMB per km at night, plus an additional 1 RMB fuel surcharge on top of the total fare.
(1) Footwear: Snow boots + cotton-lined socks, plus occasional foot warmers.
(2) Pants: Fleece-lined leggings + windproof fleece-lined outer pants.
(3) Tops: Fleece-lined base layer + an outer top + down jacket (mid-length or long).
(4) Hat + Gloves (preferably touchscreen-compatible) + Scarf.
Bring hand warmers; apply occasionally to your body or phone (camera). Snow boots should be thick, one size larger (tightness makes you feel colder), slip-resistant, waterproof, and preferably high-top to prevent snow from getting in. The weather is dry, so bring a thermos, moisturizer, lip balm, and hand cream. Contact lenses are best; sunglasses are optional.
Using your phone outdoors drains the battery quickly, and it may even shut down. Stick a hand warmer on the back of your phone for some effect. If your phone freezes and shuts down, don’t charge it directly; wait until it warms up before powering on and charging.
It’s recommended to bring a mirrorless camera for portability. For photography enthusiasts, ensure your memory card has enough storage.
■ Iron pot stew ■ Guobao rou (pot-wrapped pork) ■ Northeast dumplings ■ Madier ice pops ■ Frozen pears ■ Red sausage ■ Kvass
Day 1 (February 10, 2023, Friday)
Departed from Chengdu Tianfu Airport on a flight after 5 PM, landed at Harbin Taiping Airport around 9 PM.
Took Airport Bus Route 3 to Central Street Station, checked into Ibis chain hotel.
Most out-of-town tourists choose hotels near Central Street because it’s close to several downtown attractions. Since Airport Bus Route 3 passes by Central Street, we chose Ibis (Central Street Airport Bus Stop) hotel, right across the street from the bus stop.
From Chengdu at 10°C above zero to Harbin at minus 6°C, the biting cold wind made us shrink our hands and necks as soon as we got off the airport bus.
Since we were a family of three, we had booked a duplex family room online a month in advance. Upon entering the room, the father and son were amazed.
The hotel facilities were new, clean, and odor-free. If I had to nitpick, it wasn’t very friendly for someone like me who gets up at night—running up and down stairs to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
Northern indoor heating is very strong, with temperatures at least above 20°C. So southern visitors, accustomed to wearing turtlenecks and multiple fleece-lined tops under their down jackets, often end up sweating profusely indoors.
Day 2 (February 11, 2023, Saturday)
The hotel was very close to Central Street (turn left outside the door, 1 minute walk). Early morning Central Street was sparsely populated, and many shops on both sides were not open yet. Central Street runs north from the Flood Control Monument on the Songhua River bank to Jingwei Street in the south. Along this cobblestone pedestrian street, there are many European-style buildings from Renaissance, Baroque, and other styles, full of romantic charm.
Later, the tour guide in Snow Town told us that the cobblestones are buried vertically into the ground up to 1.5 meters deep, and this 1,400-meter stone road has a history of over 100 years. Experts estimate it could last another 100 years without issues.
During the Ice and Snow Festival, interesting ice sculptures are everywhere along the street, waiting for you to take photos with them.
Walking north along Central Street, you reach the Flood Control Victory Monument, a landmark of Harbin.
The weather forecast for that day was rain + snow, and the sky was gloomy. We strolled casually along the Songhua River, enjoying the unique beauty of the northern landscape covered in white. This free riverside park is Stalin Park, featuring some snow sculptures that amazed us southerners. On the frozen Songhua River, there were activities like horse-drawn carriage rides, snow tubing, and ice skating, with quite a few participants.
The ice on the Songhua River was thick, so we also walked on it, deeply feeling the chill seeping up from our feet…
In the distance stood the century-old Middle East Railway Bridge, another popular Instagram-worthy spot in Harbin.
After this walk, it was almost lunchtime. Following our pre-made itinerary, we went to Wu Ji Braised Bone Stew Restaurant (208 Xidazhi Street) for authentic Northeast cuisine. From the railway bridge, we took bus 83 directly for about 7-8 stops.
We ordered the recommended braised pork ribs, guobao rou, and "storytelling" mashed potatoes, plus a bowl of geda soup (a northern staple). This was our first experience of the generous portions of Northeast cuisine—the three of us couldn’t finish it all!
Also, we had a small drink with every meal: Niulanshan Xiao Er Fang Niu, and kvass was also quite tasty…
After lunch, we took a bus to the famous Saint Sophia Cathedral. Due to bad weather that day, photos didn’t turn out great.
Saint Sophia Cathedral was built in 1907 and is currently one of the best-preserved Byzantine-style buildings in China. In 1997, it was renamed "Harbin Architecture Art Museum." The most striking part of the cathedral is its full and huge onion-shaped dome, a typical Russian architectural roof style that is grand and comparable to Moscow’s St. Basil’s Cathedral.
Next to Saint Sophia Cathedral is the famous "Harbin No. 1 Department Store." The agricultural product market on the first floor is worth a visit, offering many local delicacies. We also bought breakfast for the next day’s trip to Snow Town.
After finishing the day’s schedule, we returned to the hotel to rest. Since we had eaten too much at lunch, we canceled our original dinner plan—Russian-style Western food. When my husband went out to pack a late-night snack, he found that light snow was falling in Harbin at night, and Central Street was completely different from the daytime quiet, becoming lively and bustling.
So I mustered up courage, endured the bitter cold of minus 10-something degrees, and strolled Central Street again, tasting the famous Madier ice pops and the long-craved candied hawthorn skewers.
Remember: The authentic Madier ice pops are sold at the Madier cold drink stall on Central Street, without packaging, for 5 RMB each—don’t buy the wrong ones!
Day 3 (February 12, 2023, Sunday)
For Snow Town, due to complex road conditions, most people join a two-day group tour locally. Since we didn’t want to participate in skiing activities, we booked a pure-play two-day tour (excluding Yabuli skiing) in advance. Costs vary depending on the time of the tour. There is a 200 RMB difference per person between deep tour and pure play tour, which covers snowmobiling up to Big Bald Mountain.
We woke up at 5 AM, stored our luggage, checked out of the hotel, and gathered at the designated meeting point. Although it was a group of 30 people, everyone was punctual with no delays or disputes. After about three hours by bus, we arrived at our first stop: Yaxue Station. Here, there were two snow activities: horse-drawn sleigh rides and snow tubing, plus lunch.
Riding the horse-drawn sleigh through the forest of snow was incredibly beautiful.
Set off a string of firecrackers, enter the Weihu Village, and experience being a bandit for a while!
Snow tubing gives you a moment of weightlessness.
Lunch was Northeast specialty "kill-the-pig" stew, including braised dishes, braised fish, and red sausage—taste was decent.
After another 1.5 hours of driving, we reached the second stop: Big Bald Mountain. Since it was a combined group, those of us who hadn’t bought the snowmobile ride up Big Bald Mountain spent free time at the foot of the mountain, taking photos.
Or rolling in the snow, building snowmen, having snowball fights, enjoying the snow to the fullest.
A warm reminder: This one-piece red thermal snowsuit was recommended by the tour guide on the bus for those who felt cold or hadn’t dressed warmly enough. The rental cost for the suit plus a hooded coat was 200 RMB, valid until the next day’s return. My husband confirmed it was indeed warmer than his own clothes.
Snow boots must be waterproof and slip-resistant; otherwise, knee-deep snow easily gets into your ankles and chills you.
For scenes of Big Bald Mountain, you can search online. I also got a few photos from fellow group members to share.
Around 5 PM, we arrived at our destination: China Snow Town.
Tonight’s group dinner was Northeast dumplings, with two fillings: chive and egg, and cabbage and pork—delicious and unlimited!
After dropping our luggage, we went to Snow Town’s only street: Xueyun Avenue. The guide described its length: "Grab a handful of sunflower seeds and start cracking; from one end to the other, the seeds won’t be finished!"
This street, less than 500 meters long, is lined with shops, inns, restaurants, and roadside stalls. The Snow Town Visitor Center and the popular attraction Dream Home are also on this street. Xueyun Avenue originally was a forest railway station, now a commercial street. During peak tourist season at night, the street is illuminated with lanterns and crowded with visitors, creating a lively scene.
At night, Snow Town offers many free activities, such as Northeast Yangge dance, reindeer flower parade, and a large outdoor dance party. Dancing in subzero temperatures keeps you warm.
Dream Home is next to Xueyun Avenue, where you can see various beautiful "snow mushrooms"—natural snow sculptures, a landmark of Snow Town. The snow-covered mushroom houses, set against the lighting, look extraordinarily beautiful, like a fairy tale world.
We were lucky; it had snowed two days earlier, so the snow on the roofs was especially clean, flat, and white.
The Bangchui Mountain Observation Boardwalk is about 3,200 meters long and 2.5 meters wide, made of wood, built along the mountain with steps ascending. Despite temperatures of minus 10-something, many people were doing travel photography and live streaming—truly beautiful but freezing!
At the end of Xueyun Avenue, there is a "Snow Town Fairy Tale Post Office" where you can pick a postcard and send it to your loved ones.
At 8:10 PM, we could also watch "Northeast Errenzhuan" (a local folk performance), included in the tour fee.
We stayed at the guesthouse of Du Shuling (Snow Town inns are named after the owner). It had a heated brick kang (bed) shared by all.
The conditions at Snow Town inns are very basic: no toiletries, and the bed linens are not changed daily. Our bathroom even leaked, making it impossible to shower. So we just rinsed our mouths and washed our faces, then slept in our clothes.
Day 4 (February 13, 2023, Monday)
Early morning, in front of the inn, we had to take a "boiling water turns to ice" short video to show off on WeChat Moments.
Tips for making boiling water turn to ice: Use the slow-motion function on your phone camera; use boiling water; choose early morning or late night when temperatures are extremely low; throw the water backward to your right to avoid spilling on yourself.
After breakfast, we had one hour of free time. We could go back to the boardwalk to see Snow Town in daytime. Unfortunately, it was still early and the sun hadn’t come out; otherwise, Snow Town under sunlight would have been even more beautiful!
Alternatively, try a dog sled ride on Xueyun Avenue.
At 9 AM, we gathered at the Snow Town entrance and began the return trip. Passing by the foot of Big Bald Mountain from yesterday, we continued with other snow activities: snow spinners and a long snow dragon. These were simple activities, but the experience was different in the snowy landscape.
The highlight of the day was the "Ten Mile Gallery" hike. Walking through a forest labyrinth formed by natural trees, we enjoyed the fairy-tale-like snow mushroom courtyards. The first section was Mountain Zoo: Yaxue Station Scenic Area, average altitude 1,300 meters, a gathering place for various wild animals. The second section was experiencing forest life: visiting hunter cottages and photographing snow sculpture areas. In the experience pavilion, we put on dog-skin coats and tried woodcutting. The third section was crossing the snowy plains through snow over 1,200 mm deep.
We saw a few animals in the snow, but it’s uncertain if they were wild. However, we were lucky to see the Northeast mythical creature—the roe deer, with two tufts of white hair on its rump, particularly cute!
Today’s lunch was iron pot stew: one pot of goose, another of local fish (forgot the name). I must praise the group meals: local characteristics, generous portions, and great taste!
After lunch, all activities for this trip concluded. We returned to Harbin city center around 5 PM and disbanded at the original meeting point.
We checked into the booked hotel—it was the same room from two days ago! Back at the hotel, the whole family was eager to shower and rest.
For dinner, we chose Laochang Spring Pancake on Central Street—a recommended place! We especially liked the spicy shredded pork and stir-fried assorted vegetables.
After dinner, we strolled to nearby Saint Sophia Cathedral, reportedly beautiful at night.
Day 5 (February 14, 2023, Tuesday)
We slept in and then went to nearby "Hongzhuan Street" for breakfast. Various snack stalls and fruits were available. Don’t miss this if you don’t mind street food.
We tried egg burgers, fried cakes, jianbing guozi, braised pork buns, and fennel vegetable buns, experiencing a taste of Northeast breakfast.
This day, Harbin was clear and sunny, with great weather. We went to Sun Island as planned.
Sun Island Scenic Area is a small island in the middle of the Songhua River north of Harbin city. In early years, the Manchu people fished and hunted here. The Songhua River was abundant with bream fish. In Manchu, the name of this fish sounds very similar to the Chinese word for "sun," and over time, it became known as Sun Island. During the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, Sun Island was developed as a naval base, later used for troop inspection and training.
From the end of December to February each year, Sun Island Scenic Area is the main venue for the International Snow Sculpture Art Expo. During this period, the area is covered in white, featuring snow sculptures of human figures, animal groups, Western architecture, and other art pieces, all lifelike.
The Ice and Snow World and Sun Island Snow Expo are both highly recommended by netizens and must-visit spots in Harbin. The differences between the two can be found online. We chose the latter based on a comprehensive consideration of visual appeal, cost, play time, and our cold tolerance.
Several ways to reach Sun Island: cable car across the river, subway, or walking across the frozen Songhua River. We chose the subway—time-saving, energy-saving, and cost-effective. Take Metro Line 2 from Central Street for two stops to reach the Snow Expo entrance, very convenient!
Tickets can be booked online, saving over 30 RMB compared to the on-site ticket office.
Can you see the time and real-time temperature?
The Snow Expo ticket includes unlimited access to snow activities.
We experienced an exciting big slide and snow tubing, plus ice bicycles and single/double ice scooters—great fun!
How could the cute Bing Dwen Dwen (Beijing 2022 mascot) be missing here?
The Snow Expo took about 2-3 hours, and by the time we finished, it was lunchtime. We took the subway back to Central Street to try the most famous local iron pot stew at Shanhetun.
When we arrived around 1 PM, there was still a queue, showing how popular this place is.
There are many types of iron pot stew; we ordered goose. Half a goose was so much that the three of us struggled to finish. Once again, we experienced the enormous portions of Northeast cuisine—southern friends must be careful!
After eating and drinking our fill, we returned to the hotel to rest. The original afternoon plan was to visit Gogol Street and Laodaowai, but the long wait for lunch and the huge portions made us all feel lazy.
Here is a description of those two places for anyone interested:
Gogol Street has a history of over 100 years, featuring many Russian-style buildings, including the famous Qiulin Food Company building and St. Alexeyev Church. The street is as bustling and beautiful at night as any other, and it is also Harbin's "bar street." Among them, Gogol Bookstore is known as "China's most beautiful bookstore." Laodaowai, also known as the Chinese Baroque Historical and Cultural Protection Block, is located in the central core area of Daowai District. Unlike the old European-style buildings near Central Street, Laodaowai's buildings were mostly built by Chinese merchants in the early 20th century. The Baroque architecture here has a strong romantic flavor, with intricate carvings and intense colors.
On our last night in Harbin, I felt a little empty inside, with a strange emotion spreading quietly. My husband wanted to see ice sculptures, once a symbol of Harbin, and I gladly accompanied him.
From our earlier itinerary search, we learned that from the middle of Central Street heading east, you reach Zhaolin Park, the venue for the winter ice lantern garden party. This year, the ice lantern garden party was free.
Unfortunately, the beautiful ice sculptures were hard to capture with a phone camera.
The night view of the Middle East Railway Bridge was quiet, with few pedestrians by the river, a bit lonely.
Today happened to be Western "Valentine's Day," so we strolled again along Central Street, feeling the romantic and warm atmosphere in the air. At that time, Central Street was bustling with couples holding roses, balloons, or plush toys, sharing a candied hawthorn skewer or a Madier ice pop, their faces full of happiness…
My husband has the habit of collecting maps every time we travel. After asking for several days, he finally got a Harbin map at the Central Bookstore.
Central Street on Valentine's Day was especially luminous with twinkling lights.
Day 6 (February 15, 2023, Sunday)
Our flight back to Chengdu was at 3 PM. We had the morning free, but we all tacitly slept in, then went to Xijiade, the most famous Northeast dumpling chain on Central Street, for authentic Northeast dumplings, combining breakfast and lunch.
We tried their signature shrimp trio, happy trio, sauerkraut with pork, and squash, egg, and dried shrimp dumplings—one plate each. Even I, who doesn't usually like dumplings, found them delicious! Thin skin, generous filling, handmade and cooked fresh; each shrimp trio dumpling had a whole shrimp in it. My mouth is watering just thinking about it…
Regarding food, the tour guide also recommended "Laochuji," "Xiaoguo Huping," and "Huamei Russian Restaurant" near Central Street. We didn't have time to visit, so I'm noting them here for more options.
The weather had been good these past two days in Harbin, and there wasn't much snow left in the city. The European-style buildings on both sides of Central Street looked especially classic and timeless against the blue sky, welcoming visitors from everywhere.
At 1 PM, we arrived at Harbin Taiping Airport to prepare for departure.
As the plane took off, a wave of reluctance surged in my heart. This beautiful, romantic northern ice city—I might never have another chance to visit.
Farewell, Harbin!
