Eating and Playing in Harbin under the Spring Sun (Playing Part)
The best time to visit Harbin is in winter, when the ice city transforms into a world of fantasy, with magnificent walls forged from solid ice and crystal-clear horse-drawn carriages that transport you to ancient cold-weapon eras and Western fairy tales. But as a native of Shenyang, I'm no stranger to ice and snow, yet I still can't stand the winter cold. So this time I went to appreciate Harbin under the spring sun, experiencing its unique side.
After getting off at Harbin West Railway Station, we transferred by subway to Central Street Station. It was only a five-minute walk from the subway exit to the hotel we had booked, a Russian-style themed hotel just 50 meters from the entrance of Central Street. The hotel's interior was classic and elegant—the mailbox and telephone booth at the entrance seemed to turn back time nearly a century. Inside, the European-style decor, the sketch paintings of street scenes hanging on the walls, and the wrought-iron chandeliers instantly filled the place with a European atmosphere. After checking in and dropping our luggage, we couldn't wait to rush to Central Street.
Central Street is a dazzling pearl of Harbin, known as "Asia's Top Street" and a museum of architectural art. I appreciate architectural styles, but I don't worship them. What I admire is the creativity of the artists behind these buildings. But whether the interiors are luxurious or not, I have no interest in the style that flaunts social status. I am an ordinary person who can't afford glittering suites or taste extravagant feasts—these only decorate my ordinary life that spans less than a century.
The old street of Central Street has a very distinctive feature: the pavement is paved with dense small stone pillars, resembling raised ceramics. Later, in the morning, I saw water trucks washing the street and was reminded of Lijiang Old Town. The architecture along Central Street is diverse—Renaissance and Baroque styles are relatively easy to distinguish, but the new fashion style is harder to interpret. Here, signs on buildings bearing dates like 1901 and 1906 highlight a century of cultural heritage, exuding a romantic and elegant aura. Old buildings all have their "past and present," but I didn't explore them. As I strolled, I looked around—food and drink were my first targets. Matsee ice cream, big lieba bread, and Russian vodka were everywhere. I don't dwell on the past of the buildings; pursuing perfection can be a kind of harm, for both people and things. So I appreciate the external beauty of the architecture, but the unique intricacies inside are not part of my sightseeing. Ignoring the "inner meaning" of the buildings makes me a bit guilty.
Some building walls are built with imitation stone blocks, giving an overall solemn feel and emphasizing the stability of the base. Others have prominent domes, neat windows, and orderly layouts. Some are grand yet simple, not lacking in elegance, while others seem to have aristocratic bloodlines, like the famous Modier Hotel—though in my opinion, it's not as naturally down-to-earth as a Matsee ice cream bar. The "Matsuyang Foreign Firm" still retains its charm and taste; the clinking of glasses in the Western restaurant and the shadows under the floor-to-ceiling windows make one feel as if in a different era. Under the night sky, Central Street is brightly colored, and the buildings seem to have souls injected into them, looking enchanting in a dazzling, surreal world.
Century-old Central Street is filled with Russian goods—chocolate, dairy products, vodka, glassware—and nearly one-fifth of the shops have connections with Russia. Nesting dolls are common; some are large enough to fit a person, others as small as a fingernail. Western restaurants are everywhere, offering Russian, Italian, and French cuisines that are diverse and steeped in history. Eating a Matsee ice cream bar on Central Street, then dining in a historic Western restaurant, acting like a gentleman or lady, wielding a knife and fork—this must be a wonderful time in Harbin for food and romance.
On the second day of the trip, we visited St. Sophia Cathedral, about a 10-minute walk from our accommodation. Its exterior features modern wrought-iron work, and the building is highly ornamental, resembling a grand station hall, making one stop and admire. By the time we arrived near noon, there were no pigeons in the square as I had imagined—perhaps only early morning visits would encounter them. Crowds of people gathered around this famous cathedral in Harbin. Many girls, wearing silver wigs and fluttering angel wings, were taking photos on the steps of the church.
We visited the Chinese Baroque District after touring Sun Island. I originally intended just to take a look and have a meal, but its leisure and entertainment features were rare. The district includes a traditional catering cultural service area, a new cultural creative industry park, and characteristic courtyards and alleys. It houses a miniature precious historical museum displaying Russian daily necessities and historical relics. The Baroque district has a strong humanistic atmosphere and vibrant life, comprising four blocks with a good environment for leisure and shopping, showing the greatest potential for cultural tourism development. The buildings here are Baroque in style but incorporate Chinese elements, hence the reputation of "Chinese Baroque."
The Flood Control Monument and Sun Island are at the northern end of Central Street. Although they are famous scenic spots in Harbin, they didn't leave a deep impression. Without snow and ice, Sun Island loses its vitality. We went to Sun Island around noon, taking a cable car. Waiting for the cable car was an experience—we had to queue continuously through three floors and different shopping areas. Fortunately, we managed to get a VIP-grade cable car. Leaning back on a comfortable sofa, I wanted to enjoy more views of the Songhua River we were crossing. A Sun Island Museum at the cable car exit again impressed me with Russian culture. The vegetation on the island had not yet turned green, but there were still many people, most heading to the children's playground.
Finally, let me mention the Harbin Museum. It is located in an alley beside St. Sophia Cathedral. I only took a quick glance. The museum mainly displays oil paintings, clocks, sculptures, and other exhibits. This ice city has too many remnants of Russian culture. I appreciate them but also feel a resistance—on Chinese soil, leaving too many traces of foreign ethnicities makes me uncomfortable inside.
