Wandering in the Clouds: The Temple Complex of Mount Jiuhua – Exploring the Buddha Land

How high is the Bodhisattva statue at the foot of the mountain,

So many are the temples on the mountain.

On Jiuhua Street, smoke and mist swirl around,

But it's hard to tell whether it's the incense of the Bodhisattva never fading,

Or the cooking smoke rising from the shops along the street.

There are currently 99 complete and independent temples on Mount Jiuhua, meaning there are nearly a hundred Grand Buddha Halls. Thus, Mount Jiuhua is also called the "Buddha Land."

There is a commercial street on the mountain called "Jiuhua Street," which is quite bustling. Accommodations, food, and daily necessities are very convenient, and overall the prices are reasonable and fair.

Many readers have asked me in comments what there is to see on Mount Jiuhua,

So let me give a unified reply with this article.

First, if you drive up the mountain, note that on weekends, holidays, and the 1st and 15th of each lunar month (incense offering days), the checkpoint for private cars is temporarily closed and only opens after 5:00 PM. You can buy tickets in advance on your phone to save time at the gate. Additionally, parking on the mountain costs 40 RMB per day. One reminder: when you move your car to visit different temples, someone in uniform will come to collect a fee. Keep your receipt; show it when you move again to avoid paying twice.

If you come by public transport, after purchasing the scenic area ticket at the main gate, you need to buy a separate shuttle bus ticket, reportedly 50 RMB per person.

Want to just buy a scenic area ticket and hike up Mount Jiuhua?

That's basically impossible. The long, winding mountain road would take several hours on foot, so better forget it.

After arriving at the Mount Jiuhua scenic area, it's recommended not to start worshiping at the nearest ticket checkpoint. Instead, first explore Jiuhua Street, then walk to the archway at the far end of Jiuhua Street (see picture), climb the steps to the "Yueshen Baodian" (Body Treasure Hall), and then begin your formal tour and worship.

Yueshen Baodian, also called the Flesh Body Treasure Hall, enshrines the true body of the reincarnation of Kshitigarbha Bodhisattva. The Bodhisattva has no form, so it is extremely rare for a physical body identified as one of the Bodhisattva’s reincarnations to survive to this day.

There is a historical story: According to records, a close relative of the Silla king, Jin Qiaojue, took up residence on Mount Jiuhua, living on the Southern Terrace (today's Shenguang Ridge). In the tenth year of the Zhenyuan era of the Tang Dynasty (794 AD), he passed away at the age of 99. His body was soft, his bones made a golden clanking sound, and his face was as if alive. Buddhist disciples believed he was an incarnation of the Bodhisattva, so they built a pagoda in his memory. Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty bestowed the name "Protecting the Nation's Flesh Body Treasure Pagoda."

In simple terms, a monk from the Korean Peninsula came to Mount Jiuhua, practiced in a cave, lived an ascetic life, and finally attained enlightenment. After his death, various miraculous signs led his disciples to believe he was one of the reincarnations of Kshitigarbha Bodhisattva. His surname was Jin, so he is commonly called "Jin Dizang" (Gold Kshitigarbha).

Three years after Jin Dizang's nirvana, his face still looked lifelike. The monks built a three-story stone pagoda to house his flesh body, called the Flesh Body Pagoda. It underwent several expansions and renovations during the Ming and Qing dynasties and even modern times, and is now a large complex—that is the "Yueshen Baodian" we speak of today.

I've briefly introduced Yueshen Baodian. Due to space limitations, I won't go into detail about each temple. In short, Mount Jiuhua is a collection of all kinds of temples—some grand, some quiet, some resplendent, some elegantly simple. Historical relics, anecdotes, and exquisite stone and wood carvings are everywhere, worth savoring.

Below is my recommended visiting order and basic route:

Yueshen Baodian – Shangchan Hall – Zhantan Zen Forest – Huacheng Temple – Qiyuan Temple – Baisui Palace – Tiantai Zen Temple – Ganlu Temple (when driving back)

Most can be reached on foot within the scenic area, or you can take a cable car, or even hire a sedan chair carrier—it's up to you.

The method doesn't matter; what matters is sincerity and kindness, especially when hiring sedan chair carriers. First, carriers hope for business, as they rely on it to make a living—they may have a family waiting for them to earn money. But please be polite and respectful. People may differ greatly in wealth and fortune, but everyone is equal in dignity.

In such a sacred Buddha Land, you feel as if you can see divine Buddhas everywhere just by looking up, so how could you miss praying and making wishes?

When making a wish or praying, remember to tell the Buddha your name, where you are from, what you are asking for, and how you will fulfill your vow after it comes true—just recite it silently in your heart. The usual rule is to offer incense first. Currently, all temples on Mount Jiuhua provide three sticks of incense for free. The standard method: stand outside the hall, face the Bodhisattva, bow three times, then bow to the four directions clockwise, and finally place the incense in the censer. After offering incense, kneel and bow. When bowing to the Buddha, put your palms together, and when bending down, turn your palms upward. After kneeling, with palms together, walk clockwise around the hall three times while silently reciting your wish. If you have many wishes, walk a few more rounds.

Early morning is the best time to visit temples. I suggest you stay at least one night on Mount Jiuhua.

If you drive or take a bus up from the foot on the same day, you will likely miss the best early morning time and may feel rushed, making it hard to calm your mind and focus.

In the early morning, the ambiance is better, and you gain more. You can listen to the melodious sound of the temple's morning bell, attend the morning chanting of monks and laypeople, and the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas' ears are quieter then, making your prayers and vows more effective than during the noisy later hours.

I happened to meet a Dharma master from Tar Monastery, tall and stout. We had a pleasant conversation. I was curious how hard it must be for someone of his size to travel a thousand miles on pilgrimage. The master laughed heartily and said, "I have to stock up on nutrition, because the return journey is over a thousand kilometers of tough road."

I believe the master wasn't exaggerating. For instance, when Tibetan devotees perform prostrations, besides sincerity, they also need physical strength and nutrition. Building up a strong body beforehand is truly necessary. The same goes for practicing kindness in the world: you need a healthy, strong body, otherwise you might become someone who needs help rather than being able to help others.

Finally, here is a picture of the stout master's majestic back and his determined climbing posture. Let me end with a line from Qu Yuan's "Li Sao":

"The road ahead is long and winding, I will search high and low."

Salute to the stout master, and let us encourage each other!

As usual, I'll give an overall score to the temple complex on Mount Jiuhua:

I only deduct points for the entry fee in terms of righteousness and cultivation; otherwise, it would be a perfect score. I hope that in the future, Mount Jiuhua will become completely free like the Dayuan Cultural Park at the foot, allowing more devotees to worship conveniently and affordably on a daily basis.

"Temple Rating" is purely my personal opinion, for readers' reference only.

This article was first published on Zhihu: Stars Light Up. Follow for more reviews of scenic spots and temples.