2016 8-Day Tour of Colorful Yunnan (Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, Xishuangbanna)
About the Kunming-Dali-Lijiang-Shangri-La-Xishuangbanna 8-Day Group Tour with 5 Flights
1. Tour fee: 3,080 CNY per person. The itinerary includes shopping stops and optional paid activities.
2. Itinerary (copied from the travel agency’s schedule):
Day 1: Beijing – Kunming
Day 2: Kunming – Chuxiong
Day 3: Chuxiong – Dali – Heqing
Day 4: Heqing – Lijiang
Day 5: Lijiang – Shangri-La
Day 6: Shangri-La – Kunming – Xishuangbanna
Day 7: Xishuangbanna – Kunming
Day 8: Kunming – Beijing
3. Shopping stops:
Kunming: Yunruilong Tourism Cultural Creative Park (Pu’er tea, essential oils)
Dali: Jade Shopping Mall + Yinde Tianxia (jade, silverware)
Lijiang: Spirulina Distribution Center (spirulina)
Lijiang: Huanglong Jade Museum (yellow dragon jade, nanhong agate, jade)
Shangri-La: Shambhala Kalachakra Mandala Cultural Park
Xishuangbanna: Dai Ethnic Village (medicinal silver, silverware)
Kunming: Xianghua Port (flowers, dried flowers, jade, yellow dragon jade, essential oils, Pu’er tea, silverware, flower cakes, coffee, Yunnan specialties)
4. Optional paid activities:
Lijiang: Songcheng Eternal Love Show or Lishui Jinsha show (280 CNY/person)
Shangri-La: Land Feast (Tibetan barley wine, performance, 300 CNY/person)
Xishuangbanna: Bonfire Party (280 CNY/person)
Expenses:
1. Tour fee: 3,080 CNY/person, 3,080 × 3 + 55 (insurance) = 9,175 CNY
2. Local transportation: 315.5 CNY
Home to airport: 140 CNY
Kunming: Zhongyuan Hotel to Yunnan Ethnic Village 36 CNY, return 42 CNY
Capital Airport to home: 97 CNY
3. Meals: 502.5 CNY
4. Shopping: 6,477 CNY
5. Optional activities: 1,046 CNY
Yunnan Ethnic Village entrance: 90 + 90 + 45 = 225 CNY
Stone Forest battery car: 25 × 3 = 75 CNY
Dali Ancient Town maintenance fee: 30 × 3 = 90 CNY
Dali battery car: 35 × 3 = 105 CNY
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain & Pudacuo National Park: oxygen canisters 236 CNY (large 100/can, small 68/can; down jacket rental 45/piece)
Pudacuo National Park boat ride: 50/person/ride × 3 = 150 CNY
Xishuangbanna: Manfeilong White Pagoda battery car, 40/person × 3 = 120 CNY
Total: 9,175 + 315.5 + 502.5 + 6,477 + 1,046 = 17,496 CNY; average per person: 5,832 CNY.
We flew to Kunming on July 23 and returned to Beijing on the 30th. The weather was wonderful – not a single rainy day, we were really blessed.
Kunming’s temperature was around 20°C, cooler at night. On a group tour you still need to carry plenty of cash; a bank card is essential. Most shops accept card payments, but battery cars and cable cars only take cash. For Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Pudacuo National Park, a slightly thicker spring/autumn jacket is enough. In July and August you basically don’t need to rent a down jacket. Truth be told, I felt the oxygen canisters were pretty useless. The altitude sickness was mild, not as severe as the guides made out. Carrying one was just for peace of mind – and a little extra income for the guide. Hotel rooms don’t have many power sockets, so bring a multi-plug adapter.
I’d never been on a budget group tour before, so I got to experience one firsthand. Ours was a Beijing-formed group with an accompanying guide and a Yunnan local guide. The local guide was very capable, both at explaining the sights and at selling – you can’t help but admire that. When you join such a low-cost tour, you don’t need the guide to remind you; we all knew the fee barely covered the flights. So if you just want to tag along, have strong nerves, or actually intend to shop, it’s no big deal. But if you’re a genuine traveler wanting good food, comfort and rest, I’d advise not choosing this kind of tour. Otherwise, you’ll only have yourself to blame. With a budget tour, be mentally prepared for multiple shopping stops, and for looking after every guide (the itinerary switches guides five times, and each guide’s salary and performance depend entirely on this one group; every guest would need superhuman powers to satisfy them all). Everyone sees it differently. Personally, I’ll never join a group tour again. Even spending money feels uncomfortable, as if you’ve somehow taken advantage of something.
Day 1: Beijing – Kunming
2016-7-23
Woke up at 3:00 am, left at 3:40 for Capital Airport. The taxi booked the night before was already waiting downstairs. Boarded at 6:10 on time, flying to Kunming.
Beijing–Kunming
[image descriptions omitted]
Aerial view of downtown Kunming
Kunming Changshui Airport
We arrived ahead of schedule at Kunming Changshui Airport at 10:40 after over three hours of flight. Waited for the local guide to finish procedures, then were sent straight to Zhongyuan Hotel. The transfer vehicles were mostly small vans, six or seven people with luggage crammed in – no proper tour bus at the airport.
Accommodation: Jinma Zhongyuan Hotel
After checking in, the first day had no arranged activities, so we were free in the afternoon. After a short rest, at 12:30 we set off for Yunnan Ethnic Village.
Yunnan Ethnic Village is 6 km south of Kunming, covering 2,000 mu. The plan is to build a village for each of Yunnan’s 26 ethnic groups, along with a Unity Square, a song-and-dance hall, an ethnic museum, wax museum, etc. It’s a microcosm of Yunnan’s peoples.
The main entrance is a grand steel-frame structure. The gate bears the five golden characters “Yunnan Ethnic Village,” with a large golden peacock emblem in the center symbolizing luck, happiness and prosperity.
But the first thing you encounter isn’t the village entrance – it’s a shopping plaza, a bit like Lijiang Old Town but less crowded. The scenery is lovely; even a snack shop has a pagoda-like tower. Amazing.
A symbol evoking the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
Entrance tickets: adults 90 CNY/person; children half-price 45 CNY.
Achang Village features a courtyard-style main building with a gate, workshops, and grey-tiled brick walls, raising pillars on stone bases – quite distinctive. The Achang people are hospitable and respect the elderly.
Jingpo chieftain’s house
In the past, the Jingpo headman ruled a territory. This house combines the stilted, inverted-T shapes typical of Jingpo architecture, built mainly of bamboo, timber and thatch. It has two floors: the lower for storage and livestock, the upper for living. The central pillar holding a buffalo head symbolizes wealth and power, while bamboo rings under the eaves represent the population under the chieftain; ivory displays his wealth.
Jingpo ethnic costumes
De’ang ethnic group is unique to Yunnan, with nearly 20,000 people mainly in Dehong and Baoshan. They generally practice Theravada Buddhism and their folk activities are closely tied to Buddhist events. Like the Dai, the Water-Splashing Festival (called Flower-Watering Festival by the De’ang), the Door-Opening and Door-Closing festivals are major celebrations.
De’ang houses are mostly stilted bamboo structures with thatched roofs. In this village, you see a large house for dozens, small hat-shaped huts, and romantic big and small communal rooms…
The Jingpo’s tea culture is unique.
The Aini people are a subgroup of the Hani. About 190,000 strong. In Xishuangbanna, Hani people call themselves Aini. Men are generally called “Ali,” women “Abu.” They revere black and avoid white and even numbers.
July 27, 2016 (lunar 24th of the 6th month) – Torch Festival. An ancient and important celebration for the Yi, Bai, Naxi, Jino, Lahu and others, rich in cultural meaning and famed as the “Eastern Carnival.”
The Bai are China’s 15th largest ethnic group, mostly in Yunnan, Guizhou and Hunan, with the greatest concentration in Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. Deeply influenced by Han culture, they have three major branches. The Bai village here occupies 62.5 mu, dominated by traditional architecture with upturned eaves, carved beams and painted rafters. Layouts like “three houses and one screen wall,” “four courtyards and five skywells,” tie-dye workshops, woodcarving shops, tea houses, a stage, a Benzhu temple, and a replica of Dali’s Three Pagodas create a harmonious, spacious scene.
The miniature Three Pagodas clearly reflect the famous six-pagoda reflection – a picture-perfect view.
A “Dali Street” lined with exquisite handicrafts runs north-south, with folk custom and butterfly exhibition halls.
The Zhuang are the most populous minority in China, mostly in Guangxi. Over one million live in Yunnan, mainly in Wenshan, with some in Honghe and Qujing.
The bronze drum is the most representative Zhuang folk instrument. They are also called “bronze drum people,” having cast and used drums for over 2,000 years. Drums vary in size, decorated with patterns, used in rituals, weddings, funerals and entertainment, and once symbolizing power and wealth.
Zhuang housing is often similar to local Han styles. Some still live in “ganlan” (stilted) houses: upper floor for people, lower for livestock. In recent decades, people and animals are increasingly separated. The ganlan-style architecture is a gem of Chinese building art. The Zhuang consider themselves people of rice and water; their settlements by mountains and rivers reflect their environment, climate and customs, carrying rich cultural meaning.
A wind-and-rain bridge in the Zhuang village.
By the “Lugu Lake” shore stands the “Wooden-Clad House” of the Mosuo people. Built entirely of logs, this rustic quadrangle courtyard is called “Mosuo Home.” The Mosuo live around Lugu Lake on the northwest Yunnan plateau, numbering about 80,000. They still preserve a matrilineal clan and family system, a unique custom that fascinates anthropologists worldwide and adds an aura of mystery. In this scenic, enchanted place, hospitable Mosuo girls sing and dance, offer butter tea, and paddle “pig-trough” boats, leaving unforgettable impressions with their heartfelt songs.
The Jino village is linked by a bridge to the Wa and Bulang villages, separated by water. Stepping in, you see peculiar rocks amid greenery and flowers, clusters of Jino thatched huts – like entering the rolling hills of Jino Mountain. There’s a large communal house, dwellings, granaries and Sun Square.
Sun Square reflects the Jino sun calendar and sun worship. The central stone sphere represents the Earth, carved with Jino ancestors; surrounding pillars mark the four cardinal directions. The Jino year has twelve months of thirty days each, named similarly to the Han but with the earthly branch before the heavenly stem, using a sixty-term cycle for years and days.
The Jino are an ancient minority. Their name means “following uncle” or “respecting uncle’s descendants.” Recognized as China’s 56th ethnic group in June 1979. They mainly live in Jino Township, Jinghong, Xishuangbanna, with others scattered in neighboring mountains. They farm and excel at tea cultivation. Their language belongs to the Tibeto-Burman family.
The Jino Sun Drum – about one metre long, 40-50 cm in diameter, both ends covered with cowhide. It is forbidden to beat except during the Temaoke Festival and rituals for the deity “Tie Luomomo,” when drumming and drum dances are performed.
The Lahu village adjoins the Jino. It has thatched houses, a large communal house, a church, cattle shed and Calabash Square. The central calabash-shaped square features a group of stone-carved gourds. Legend says the Lahu’s ancestors were born from a gourd, so the square expresses their ancestor worship. About 410,000 Lahu mainly live along the Lancang River in Simao and Lincang.
In western and southwestern Yunnan, bordering Myanmar. Lincang is in the southwest, home to Han, Wa, Yi, Dai, Lahu, Bulang, Bai, Lisu and others – a truly multi-ethnic area. “Sigangli” is an ancient Wa creation epic: “si gang” means cave, “li” means coming out; it refers to a specific location in Bagedai, opposite Ximeng’s Yuesong Township across the river in Myanmar. It’s the Wa creation story.
The Bulang number about 90,000, mainly in the mountainous areas west of the Lancang River. Their village is next to the Wa’s, with dwellings and a Spirit Square. The Spirit Square embodies their animistic belief; the central totem is where they worship deities, perform songs and dances, and hold traditional activities.
Bulang villages typically consist of three to fifty households of the same clan. Houses are two-storey bamboo structures: lower floor for storage, upper for living, with a central fireplace for meals, hosting guests, and sleeping around it at night. Bulang have no surnames; men are often called “Ai XX,” women “Yi XX.” They still practice mother-child linked names, a relic from matrilineal society.
Bulang culture features unique reproduction worship and primitive beliefs. The stone carvings in the Spirit Square symbolize male and female reproductive organs, reflecting reverence for life, vitality, and hopes for fertility and prosperity.
The Wa, about 360,000, mainly in the Awa Mountains west of the Lancang River. The Wa village sits in the southeast corner of “Cuiyi Islet,” with stilted thatched houses, Ox Head Square, Spirit Square, Sigangli stone carvings and granaries. The Spirit Square shows their animistic belief in the immortality of the soul. The two stone figures represent the most worshipped deities “Muyiji” and “Ayie.”
Wa wooden drum dance is vigorous and bold, with women’s long hair flying. Scenes from annual buffalo sacrifices, the “New Rice Tasting” and weaving “Tongpa” cloth brim with life.
Ox Head Square – the ancient “buffalo slaughtering” site. The ox horns in the center are the Wa village’s stake. Two stone figures in front represent the male and female ancestors.
The Miao, over 1.04 million, are spread across almost the whole province, concentrated in Guangnan, Jinping, Pingbian and Maguan.
A 27-mu area surrounded by water on three sides, shaded by green trees. Stilted bamboo houses of the Dai, connected by winding red sandstone paths, lead to a solemn temple. The magnificent white pagoda, delicate wind-and-rain bridge, pavilions, well and bell tower all brim with Dai charm – a genuine re-creation of a Dai village.
Yunyan Pagoda, with many small Buddha statues. It’s said to have 365 wind chimes, representing every day of the year – all days blessed with good weather.
In Yunnan Ethnic Village: the auspicious Dai white pagoda, the grand Bai Three Pagodas, towering Yi totem poles, time-honored Naxi Dongba culture, Wa wooden drums, Bulang wedding customs, Jino sun drums, Lahu reed-pipe dance, a Tibetan Buddhist temple from the snowy highlands, Hani dragon gate, De’ang Dragon-Sun Pagoda, Jingpo Munao Zongge festival, Zhuang bronze drum culture, the intriguing Mosuo matrilineal heritage, plus amusing Asian elephant shows, exquisite ethnic cuisine, diverse cultures and captivating folklore – all intoxicate visitors, making them linger. Exiting the village, turn right and walk about one kilometre to Haigeng Park.
Since it was July, we saw no seagulls at Dianchi Lake, which was a slight pity. As night fell, we took a taxi back to the hotel.
Day 2: 2016-7-24 Kunming – Chuxiong
Today the Colorful Yunnan journey truly began. Morning call at 6:30, breakfast at 7:00, departure at 7:30. First stop: Stone Forest. Over 80 km away. A 30-something-seat bus held about 20 of us. As soon as the guide boarded, he gave us a show of authority – introduced himself, laid out a bunch of rules, then started brainwashing us. Close your eyes and sleep, let him talk. After nearly two hours, we arrived at the Stone Forest.
Stone Forest Scenic Area: World Natural Heritage, Global Geopark, national 5A scenic spot, key national scenic area. Also called Yunnan Stone Forest, it’s in Shilin Yi Autonomous County, Kunming. Covering 350 sq km, it features spectacular stone formations, rich culture and strong ethnic flavor. It’s the hometown of Ashima. Formed 270 million years ago, it’s the epitome of the world’s karst landscape, with the longest evolution history, widest distribution, most complete types and unique shapes of Palaeozoic karst communities – hailed as the “Number One Wonder Under Heaven.” The area comprises Stone Forest, Naigu Stone Forest, Flying Dragon Waterfall, Changhu Lake, Gui Mountain, Moon Lake, Wind Cave and more, famed for grandeur, strangeness, peril, beauty, seclusion, mystery and expanse. The vast terrain blends stone teeth, peak clusters, karst hills and caves, lakes, waterfalls and underground rivers.
In April 1955, Premier Zhou Enlai and Marshal Chen Yi visited. Seeing only a little water in a depression, Premier Zhou said, “Where there are mountains, there should be water; with water, it won’t be dull.” Following his suggestion, the original depression was reshaped into today’s Stone Forest Lake.
Now, clusters of stone pinnacles rise from the calm lake, like a natural giant bonsai.
About 360 million years ago in the Devonian period, this area was part of the ancient Yunnan-Guizhou sea. Around 280 million years ago during the Carboniferous, the stone forest began to form. Limestone on the seabed was sculpted by currents into countless grooves and pillars. Later, the crust rose and over eons, the sea turned to land. After the water receded, aeons of scorching sun, rain erosion, weathering and earthquakes left this fairy-tale-like spectacle. Looking afar, myriad grey-black stone peaks and pillars point skyward like a vast dark forest, hence the name “Stone Forest.”
Small Stone Forest (Ashima Scenic Area): thick, broad stone walls screen off several gardens. The most famous spot here is “Ashima.” When night falls and colored lights shine, it’s even more colorful and enchanting.
By the shimmering Jade Bird Pond stands a spirited, lifelike peak resembling a graceful, elegant Yi maiden – this is the renowned Ashima Peak. See, that lively, youthful Ashima, curvaceous and naturally charming, stands quietly on the ridge; a small bamboo basket on her back, her affectionate eyes gazing into the distance, as if lost in thought or waiting. “Peaks like swords, sky like a mirror, reflecting Ashima’s beauty.” Legend says Ashima and Ahei truly loved each other, but the landlord Rebubala cruelly killed them; from then on, she turned into stone, an eternal echo that “the sun may perish but I will not, clouds may disperse but I remain.” This beautiful, hardworking, kind and brave image forever symbolizes the pursuit of happiness and love. Yes, after centuries of wind and rain, the pure, devoted, untainted Ashima spirit stands firm in the Stone Forest – what a steadfast sentiment!
The Small Stone Forest is divided by thick screen-like cliffs into many gardens.
Camel Looking Up in Small Stone Forest
Turtle Carrying a Stele landscape
Pinnacle Propping the Sky
Moon Dance Ground and Stone Clusters
“Mountain stones crown the world; customs captivate the heart.” Wandering past “Lovers at the Secluded Pond,” “Liu Bei Welcoming Guests,” “Su Wu Herding Sheep” and other scenes, each wondrous sight left lingering nostalgia and tranquil dreams. We slowed down, strolling leisurely along the winding path by Lotus Pond. The mirror-like lake reflected picturesque mountains, sparkling under the sun.
Following the tree-lined path up from Lotus Pond, we soon reached the center – the “Stone Forest Grand Sight.” Looking around, the huge stone wall carved with “Stone Forest” was already crowded with visitors from everywhere. The guide said the calligraphy was by Long Yun, the “King of Yunnan,” but his original inscription was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. When his son returned from abroad to pay respects, the provincial government had someone copy the characters from calligraphy books, making it quite similar. Standing before the wall, you see it rise like a blade, towering into the sky. Words carved alongside – “Nantian Pillar,” “Great Momentum,” “Nature’s Masterpiece,” “Indomitable Spirit,” “Number One Wonder” – aptly capture its magnificence. “A thousand feet of sheer cliff without desire becomes resolute; a myriad charms on the southern border.” Visitors strike every possible pose for photos, trying to compress the Stone Forest’s majesty into a bright rainbow in their hearts. Amid the surging crowd, I suddenly felt like a tiny drop in the vast sea, small as a mustard seed…
Turning past the carved wall, we took a rough, jagged path into the deep, mysterious heart of the forest. Looking up under the grey sky, soaring pillars lined the way, and a huge rock teetered between two peaks, looking ready to fall at any moment. An inscription read “Hanging by a Thread” – an apt, hair-raising description. They say an upright person can pass safely beneath, while those with evil intentions should beware of calamity from above. The guide joked: “Walk lightly, hold your breath, or the rock will drop!” Just a joke – that stone has sat there for over three million years and survived countless earthquakes; it’s not going anywhere.
Rainwater has vertically dissolved the stone pillars over time, giving them sharp edges and grooves that make them look like swords thrusting into the sky – sword-like pillars. There’s also horizontal dissolution marks from when the pillar was still buried in soil, and small pits caused mainly by bio-erosion.
Wonder after wonder, an otherworldly realm; the Stone Forest labyrinth, unfathomable. Near noon, we reluctantly bid farewell. In this tolerant, peaceful haven far from the worldly clamor, you could unfold your imagination and turn yourself into a beautiful landscape, making life shine brighter with eternal happiness… Clear and dustless, tranquil at heart. The Stone Forest is beautiful – enough to fill the soul!
After the tour, we had lunch, then in the afternoon visited Yunlong Tourism Cultural Creative Park for over two hours, mainly tasting Pu’er tea and essential oils. Shopping done, we drove 200 km to Chuxiong and stayed at Yubo Hotel.
Day 3: Chuxiong – Dali – Shuanglang – Heqing
2016-7-25
For many who haven’t been to Dali, their image comes from two sources: one, Jin Yong’s martial arts novels, where Emperor Duan’s “One-Finger Skill” evokes the distant, mysterious Nanzhao Kingdom; two, the 1960s film “Five Golden Flowers” with the hit song “Meet at Butterfly Spring,” which spread Dali’s scenic beauty far and wide. But Dali has much more. Dali Ancient City, also called Yu City or Zi City, is an old, well-known town often dubbed “A Renowned State of Literature.” Human habitation dates back to the Old and New Stone Ages. Under the Western Han, it was incorporated into the empire. During the Tang and Song, the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms held sway. Before the Yuan, Dali was Yunnan’s political, economic and cultural heart. After the Yuan established Yunnan Province, the seat moved to Kunming, but Dali remained the centre for western Yunnan, hosting various mid-level administrative divisions.
Dali’s long history and brilliant culture left rich heritage. Between the Jade Erhai and Silver Cangshan, natural beauty is varied and colorful. Cangshan Mountain like a screen, Erhai Lake like a mirror, Butterfly Spring tranquil; plus the four wonders – “Wind, Flowers, Snow, Moon” (Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon). Dali is the main settlement of the Bai, preserving ancient, rich customs. Here you can learn about their way of life, sample unique Bai cuisine, buy pleasing handicrafts, and join the traditional March Fair festival. Dali Ancient City draws self-traveling foreigners and even has a “Foreigners’ Street” on Huguo Road. Enchanted by the Bai’s old-world charm and deep culture, some even settle long-term.
One of the three great mysteriously vanished ancient kingdoms of China. Along the 5,000-year flow of civilization, many kingdoms once flourished only to disappear suddenly. The most famous: Yelang, Dali and Loulan. Each existed for centuries, created brilliant cultures, then vanished into the mists of history.
Du Wenxiu’s Marshal Mansion
People’s Heroes Monument
Jiang Gong Ancestral Hall is dedicated to Qing Dynasty general Jiang Zonghan, who was keen on local welfare – building schools, water works and transport. In 1876, he privately donated 100,000 taels to build Jinlong Bridge (Zili Bridge) over the Jinsha River. It took five years and was completed in 1880, with 18 iron chains, each weighing about a ton and 500 links. For 70 years it was the only bridge on the upper Jinsha, listed as a national key cultural relic in 2006.
Located at 123 Yu’er Road, Dali Ancient City, now the Dali Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum, with rich historical stories and colorful heritage displays.
Jiang Gong Ancestral Hall isn’t a celebrated spot, but as a heritage museum, the guide explained Bai costume, tie-dye, silver ornaments and more – all swept away in the whirlwind tour. In one courtyard, you could buy tickets at the counter and exchange them for your favorite snacks.
After the ancient city, we drove to a Bai folk village.
Taoyuan Bai Folk Village in Dali (cormorant fishing show, views of Cangshan-Erhai, Bai dwellings and song-and-dance performances)
Butterfly Spring panoramic view
Taoyuan Pier lies in Taoyuan Village, close to the main tourist route and National Highway 214. This is the real home of the “Five Golden Flowers,” with Butterfly Spring practically at its doorstep. Here, Cangshan like a screen, Erhai like a mirror, pastoral beauty, greenery everywhere, and white-walled tile-roofed Bai houses dot the lakeside – a true secluded paradise.
Cormorants ("fish hawks") are tamed through the Bai’s unique skills. Only two species can be trained for fishing. In October 2009, “Dali Bai cormorant fishing skills” were listed as a Yunnan provincial intangible cultural heritage. The training is unusual: the song-loving Bai use beautiful, loud, special calls and songs to command the birds, making them work in perfect harmony with fishermen.
Shuanglang Town lies on the northeast shore of Erhai, facing Cangshan. It’s embraced by Luoshi Bend to the north and Lianhua Bend to the south, with Jinsuo and Yuji islets cradled between – hence the name Shuanglang (“Twin Corridors”).
Erhai boasts three islands, four islets, five lakes and nine bends. Shuanglang sits where Luoshi and Lianhua bends meet, atop a sandbank, with Nanzhao Folk Island and Yuji Island flanking it – truly “twin corridors” embracing “twin islands.”
Shuanglang faces the rippling Erhai, with a distant view of Cangshan’s 19 peaks. It captures the essence of Cang-Er landscape, earning the praise: “Dali’s beauty is in Cang-Er; Cang-Er’s beauty is in Shuanglang.”
An ancient poem says: “Gazing beyond lake and mountains a thousand miles, one stands between water and sky.” Is this a fairyland, or heaven on earth?
After Shuanglang, we drove to Heqing and checked into Heqing Jiayuan Hotel. Today was the longest drive of the whole trip – quite tiring. Chuxiong to Dali, 200 km, about 2.5 hours; Dali to Heqing, 150 km, over 2 hours.
Day 4: Heqing – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Lijiang Ancient Town
2016-7-25
After breakfast we headed for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The guide said it was too cold in the morning, so we’d go later. He first took us to a jade shopping mall. Along the way, he lectured us nonstop, even saying our purchasing records would be linked to our personal credit. Unbelievable. The most outrageous part: he set a minimum purchase expectation – no less than 3,000 CNY per person (his exact words). The itinerary listed Jade Shopping Mall + Yinde Tianxia (jade first, then silver). We spent nearly three hours there. When we finally got back on the bus, the guide summed up briefly, then said: “The driver will take you to lunch, and this afternoon a Naxi guide will take you to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain,” and off he went. Everyone felt cheated.
After lunch we drove straight to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain lies in Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, Lijiang. It’s China’s southernmost snowy mountain, part of the Shaluli Range. The highest peak reaches 5,596 m, covering 455 sq km. Thirteen peaks remain snow-capped year-round, like a vigorous jade dragon lying across the summit, poised to leap into the Jinsha River – thus the name. The rock is mainly limestone and basalt, black and white in clear contrast, so it’s also called “Black-and-White Snow Mountain.” The mountain is famed for its precipitousness, strangeness, beauty and elegance. As seasons and weather shift, sometimes clouds and mist shroud the dragon half-hidden; sometimes the sky is clear as sapphire, peaks glittering; sometimes a belt of cloud wraps the mountain, snowy crests gleaming and lower slopes vividly green; sometimes sunset glow makes the peaks blush like a red veil. After rain or snow, the white is especially white, the green especially green, playing hide-and-seek – a magnificent spectacle. Temperature differs greatly between the top and base, with vegetation changing starkly from barren to lush, like two different worlds. The landscape includes glacial zones, alpine meadows, primeval forests, and waterscapes. Main sights: Jade Pillar Propping the Sky, Spruce Meadow, cableways, Black River, White River, Blue Moon Valley, and Baoshan Stone Town.
The mountain is sacred to the Naxi and other local peoples. Their guardian deity “Sanduo” is believed to be the embodiment of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and Lijiang still holds an annual grand “Sanduo Festival.” A Naxi legend tells: Jade Dragon and Haba were twin brothers, panning gold in the Jinsha River. A ferocious demon from the north seized the river and forbade gold mining. The brothers fought with their swords. Haba, less strong, was beheaded by the demon. Jade Dragon battled for three days and nights, breaking thirteen swords, and finally drove the demon away. Haba became the headless Haba Snow Mountain; Jade Dragon, ever vigilant, held up thirteen swords, which turned into the thirteen peaks, and his sweat became the Black and White rivers. Thus, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain embodies the Naxi spirit. The guardian Sanduo is its incarnation. Another legend tells of love: when a young couple’s love was opposed by their families, they would go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain for double suicide, and the whole clan would see them off. The place they went to after death was like paradise, where they rode tigers and lived in luxury. Once, twelve couples found a hillside full of rhododendrons, feasted for three days, then each pair hanged themselves from a tree – a mass martyrdom.
[Note: The three photos of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain are not my own; we only took the small cable car; pictures are downloaded from the internet, declared here.]
The scenic area has three routes: the large cable car (Glacier Park), small cable car (Spruce Meadow), middle cable car (Yak Meadow). Only the large cable car takes you to the highest point reachable, closest to the snow depending on the season. The small cable car gives closest access to Blue Moon Valley.
Ganhaizi – at 3,100 m on the eastern foot of the mountain. Originally an alpine glacial lake, it dried up as the snowline rose, hence the name “Dry Sea.” It’s the best spot for a panoramic view of the mountain and serves as a tourist hub with dining, accommodation, transport and shopping. There’s also the world’s longest golf course, highest in Asia and the only one right at the foot of a snowy mountain.
Spruce Meadow small cable car entrance
Looking down from the cable car: dense, lush forests.
Off the cable car, we found ourselves in primeval forest. The path was made of wooden planks, with guardrails and steps, winding into the depths. The planks are chestnut, like a plank road, called Spruce Plank Road. Walking along, the crisp air refreshed body and mind; all unhappiness seemed to melt away. Tall, straight spruces lined both sides, and late-summer sunlight filtered through the gaps, gilding the mossy forest floor. Here, green branches and towering trees mixed with fallen, moss-covered trunks – some draped with moss like beard, others looking like desolate, mournful graves. The weight of ages hung in the air, as if undisturbed for centuries – an untouched, pristine Eden.
Spruce Meadow – at 3,240 m, called “Wuluyoucuige” in Naxi, meaning “place for love-death,” an ideal spiritual home for young lovers in ancient times. The Naxi Dongba scripture “Lu Ban Lu Rao” describes Spruce Meadow as an ideal paradise where white deer plough, red tigers serve as mounts, pheasants crow at dawn, snow brews fine wine, trees bear golden fruit, and no flies sully the clean land – the legendary “Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon.” It’s a flowery alpine meadow surrounded by tall, dense spruces, peaceful and remote; visitors feel far from the mortal world, as if stepping into a hidden paradise…
Legend says Spruce Meadow is where the first pair of Naxi lovers died for love. The pioneers were Kaimi and Yulepai. Their sweet love, destroyed by feudal polygamous marriage, led them to choose double suicide here. So every June during the Torch Festival, young people from nearby villages make paper effigies of Kaimi and Yulepai and come to pay homage.
Spruce Meadow is seen as the entrance to the Naxi mythical “Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon.” The majestic snow mountain looms close, with its millennia-old glaciers visible. Beyond viewing the mountain, you can appreciate the strangeness and tranquility of the primeval forest, and enjoy Naxi and other minority songs and dances.
Hearing the Naxi guide’s explanation, I was filled with awe. Spruce Meadow is a holy place in Naxi hearts. Legend says it leads to the “Third Kingdom,” where, according to Dongba scriptures, “endless fine silks and satins, endless fresh fruit and delicacies, endless sweet wine and milk, endless gold and silver. A fiery red tiger serves as a mount, silver-horned deer plough the fields, wide-eared foxes act as hunting dogs, and flowery-tailed pheasants herald the dawn.” Compared with our “Peach Blossom Spring,” the Naxi “Third Kingdom” is even more romantic and resplendent. What moved me most: since ancient times, Spruce Meadow witnessed young Naxi couples’ suicide by jumping off cliffs, hanging, or poisoning. Not just legend – cold fact. “Ask the world, what is love, that it promises life and death?” Spruce Meadow has witnessed countless heart-wrenching love stories! Those Naxi lovers firmly believed their souls would enter the Third Kingdom and gain eternal happiness.
Here is the sacred place for martyrdom – Love Vow Stone.
White River is formed by melting glaciers from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, cascading down layered valleys. The water is clear, inky green. The riverbed is made of grey-white limestone fragments, so from afar it looks like a white river, hence the name. It’s said the water comes from the dragon’s mouth, imbued with spirit, and is also a love shrine. It lies by Spruce Meadow at the mountain’s eastern foot. The pristine stream, running over white marble and limestone pebbles, makes the water appear white. Standing on bridges and banks, facing the rushing white water and frozen snow and ice forest, you’re drawn into endless reverie. Down from Spruce Meadow cable car, a deep valley unfolds. Snowmelt from the peak cascades, tumbling over cliffs into waterfalls, through shallows into streams, threading forests and rocks – clear, cheerful water dancing before your eyes. Looking upstream, snow, glaciers and ice towers are all in view.
White River: washing once brings fortune, twice brings career luck, three times brings love luck.
Blue Moon Valley – formerly known as “White River.” On sunny days the water turns blue, and the valley is crescent-shaped, resembling a blue moon set at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – thus the name. It’s also called White River because the lakebed mud is white; when it rains, the water turns white.
As the river flows, it’s blocked in four places, forming four large pools: Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pond, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening to the Waves Lake.
Lush vegetation surrounds the shores, with distant snowy peaks reflecting. The lake water is a transparent blue, almost solid, with flecks of green. Looking around, white clouds drift, floating above mountain ridges, mirrored on the surface – dreamlike, as if a wonderland.
After Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, on the way to Lijiang Ancient Town we visited a spirulina display centre. Then we arrived in Lijiang, checked into Yadingyue Hotel, got ready, and immediately set out for a night tour of Lijiang Ancient Town.
Lijiang Ancient Town (Dayan Old Town) sits in the Lijiang basin. Together with Langzhong in Sichuan, Pingyao in Shanxi, and Shexian in Anhui, it’s one of the “Four Best-Preserved Ancient Towns.” Dayan is a town without walls, with smooth, clean flagstone streets, hand-built earthen and timber houses, and little bridges over flowing water everywhere. The streets follow the contours of hills and streams, paved mostly with red breccia – not muddy in rain nor dusty in drought. The natural patterns on the stones complement the old town’s atmosphere. Sifang Street at the centre is the heart of the town, and the large waterwheel at the junction of old and new towns is its landmark. Next to the waterwheel, a big screen plays the most beloved local songs; “Naxi Pure Land” is among the famous ones.
