Self-Driving Tour of Yunnan
The trip to Lugu Lake was driven by others; otherwise, I would have had no such idea at all.
I always thought Lugu Lake was in Yunnan, until just before departure I found out that it is actually shared between Sichuan and Yunnan, with Yunnan owning only about one-third of it.
Originally, I planned to fly round-trip to Lijiang and then drive to Lugu Lake, but due to the lack of suitable flights, I had to change my plan to fly round-trip to Kunming and drive from there, revisiting Dali and Lijiang along the way. Although it was still during the pandemic, flying from Shenzhen to Kunming was relatively convenient; I only needed to provide my personal health code and green travel code. Of course, there were multiple temperature checks during the journey, but as long as my temperature was normal, I could basically travel without worry.
I arrived in Kunming at around 4 p.m. on May 12. After getting off the plane, I went straight to the car rental point as usual, picked up the X5, and drove directly to Shuanglang Town in Dali. The highway from Kunming to Dali is all expressway, but because the entire road has many curves and few straight sections, the average speed was only about 80 km/h. I stayed at the Haiqi Seaview Hotel in Shuanglang Town, Dali. It was already 11 p.m. after checking in, and my experience that night was not good. First, the room was spacious but lacked style. Second, I was awakened in the middle of the night by a sound like an animal clawing inside the central air conditioning duct. After calling the hotel butler, I changed rooms, but the noise persisted, only weaker, seriously affecting my sleep quality. However, the hotel service was good. Not only did they change my room at night, but they also applied for a free stay for me when I checked out the next day, and gave me Pu'er tea as a farewell gift—quite sincere.
After leaving Dali, I chose to drive directly to Lugu Lake in Ninglang. The highway from Dali to Lijiang is all expressway, but the road from Lijiang to Ninglang is almost entirely winding mountain roads, with the highest altitude reaching 3,000 meters. The most thrilling part of the entire journey was the Eighteen Bends of Lining. These bends drop straight from the mountaintop to the valley floor, with a vertical drop of over a thousand meters, all on narrow cliff-hanging roads. Driving on them was exciting and thrilling, but as the saying goes, “Endless scenery lies at the perilous peak.” Standing on the observation deck of the Eighteen Bends of Lining and looking into the distance, the magnificent and grand scenery before me was incredibly震撼, making me feel that crossing mountains and ridges to brave these bends was truly worth it.
The Sky Mirror on the Lining Highway is located at the highest altitude, a leisure platform at 3,000 meters. With blue skies and white clouds above, surrounded by mountains, and distant snow-capped peaks, it is indeed an excellent place for relaxation, sightseeing, and photography. Nowadays, many scenic spots are promoting “Sky Mirror,” but I found that almost all are tailored for women. Of course, this is because women naturally love beauty and enjoy posing in various ways to show off their gorgeous grace. What about men? Can they also don a white robe, a feather fan and a silk scarf, or a long sword, displaying their elegant and refined charm?
The distance from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is not far, only about 200 kilometers, but almost the entire road is winding mountain roads, so the speed cannot be fast; the average speed is basically around 50 km/h. The altitude of Lugu Lake is about 2,600 meters. When I entered the Lugu Lake scenic area and drove down the winding mountain road to the lake, that expanse of azure water suddenly appeared before my eyes—so stunningly beautiful that I wanted to stop the car immediately and gaze at it longingly.
Daluoshui Village is right by the lake. The Yanzuo Lakeview Clean & Luxury Guesthouse is built facing the lake. Sitting in the room, you can enjoy the lake and mountain scenery. Walking to the lakeside, you can play in the water. The lake water is cool, clear, and transparent. The lake surface ripples gently. The bright sunlight shines on the water, reflecting into sparkling waves like countless stars—gorgeous! Strolling along the lakeside with a gentle breeze on my face, I felt far away from the world and peaceful in time.
Lige Peninsula lies at the foot of Goddess Mountain. Although it’s called a peninsula, it is more like a narrow short causeway extending into the lake. The “Dear Inn” is located on Lige Peninsula, which became more widely known because of the Hunan TV program “Dear Inn.” There is an observation deck on Lige Peninsula, an excellent spot to photograph the panoramic view of Lugu Lake. The best time for photography is in the early morning and evening when the water and sky are one color, full of deep blue, breathtakingly beautiful. There are many distinctive guesthouses on Lige Peninsula. The one I stayed at, Liuyue-Lehaiju, is not right by the lake but has its unique character, with a feeling of hiding in a small tower. It is also a good place for social media photos.
The loop around Lugu Lake is about 70 kilometers. It may not be enough for a thorough experience in three to five days, but one day is enough for a quick tour. Every spot around Lugu Lake offers scenery; stopping anywhere has its charm. However, the most essential spots include Daluoshui Village, Lover’s Beach, Lige Peninsula, Goddess Mountain, Yang Erche Namu Museum, Lugu Lake Town, Goddess Bay, Grass Sea, and the Walking Marriage Bridge. Standing at Goddess Bay and looking at Goddess Mountain from afar, the mountain above the lake resembles a long-haired woman lying on her back among the hills, gazing at the starry sky, as if searching for her own star. Boating in the Grass Sea, the clear water reveals water plants swaying gracefully, while delicate small white flowers drift on the surface. Occasionally, startled migratory birds fly up suddenly nearby and quickly disappear into the distant grass, reminding me of childhood fun. The walking marriage is a traditional custom of the Mosuo people, but it is no longer practiced today. The Walking Marriage Bridge is merely a symbol. In one day and two nights, I spent less than 40 hours at Lugu Lake, but it was enough to take in all the lake and mountain scenery and the highland beauty. Although the round trip from Lijiang took nearly 8 hours, the scenery along the way never let those 8 hours go to waste.
I had been to Lijiang many years ago but never went up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Because of altitude sickness, I had no plans to climb it this time either, but I did want to see it up close. As I approached Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I realized it rises straight from the plain, making it appear especially towering and majestic. The pure white snow gleamed brilliantly under the sunlight. The camera lens could shoot unobstructed from different angles, capturing its lofty grandeur.
Blue Moon Valley lies at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It consists of a series of large and small lakes arranged in steps in the valley. The lake water is blue-milk white, as if a lake of milk had been miscolored by a group of naughty children pouring blue ink into it—very pretty. The area around Blue Moon Valley has rich and diverse vegetation. Various fruits are visible overhead; pinecones are large and varied in shape, making me imagine how happy the squirrels here must be.
Back in Lijiang, I chose to stay at the Shanyi Art Folk House inside the ancient town. Cars are not allowed in the ancient town, so I had to park at the South Gate parking lot. Fortunately, the folk house arranged someone to pick me up, so it was convenient. Entering the ancient town required checking the health code as usual, and I passed without any problem. Shanyi Art Folk House is not large and not particularly artistic, but the rooms were quiet, tidy, and clean. In the morning, during the pandemic, there were few tourists on Lijiang’s streets, and not many shops were open. This allowed me to slow down and wander around. Everywhere in the alleys, there were a wide variety of blooming flowers in extremely bright colors, so vivid that I doubted whether they were real. I touched them with my hand—they were indeed real. Strolling leisurely in the Dayan Ancient Town, I unintentionally wandered into a place full of succulents. By the small streams flowing gently and under the eaves, succulents were everywhere. Although the varieties and colors and shapes were quite similar, these succulents, carefully cultivated and arranged by their owners, appeared so colorful and picturesque that I couldn’t help but linger. Due to time constraints, I did not stay long in Lijiang. Around noon, I found a small restaurant near the Prince Mu’s Mansion, had a cold drink and a couple of snacks, then drove to Dali Ancient Town.
Readers who like Jin Yong’s martial arts novels should be familiar with Dali. The romantic Prince Duan is probably the dream of many men, while the dashing young prince Duan Yu would be the dream lover of many young girls. “Wind from Xiaguan, flowers from Shangguan, snow on Cangshan, moon over Erhai”—these twelve words vividly summarize Dali’s romantic atmosphere, which attracts countless travelers. I do not particularly care for romance, but I admire the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. The three pagodas of Chongsheng Temple were built during the reign of King Quanfengyou of Nanzhao (824–859 AD). The large pagoda, the Qianxun Pagoda, was built first, standing 69.13 meters tall, a 16-story, square, multi-eaved brick pagoda. Later, the south and north small pagodas were built, each 42.19 meters tall, a pair of octagonal brick pagodas with 10 stories. Only afterward was the grand Chongsheng Temple constructed. I had visited the Three Pagodas more than a decade ago. At that time, the tour guide said: the south and north small pagodas were built in the Han Dynasty, with slender bodies; the central large pagoda was built in the Tang Dynasty, with a plump body. Because the Han Dynasty considered slimness beautiful, while the Tang Dynasty considered plumpness beautiful, the architectural forms of the three pagodas reflected the aesthetic standards of “Yan’s slenderness and Yang’s plumpness.” I used to believe the guide’s explanation, but according to historical records, it is incorrect. I am not a religious person or a believer, but I admire the Three Pagodas because I work in the construction industry. The excellent geographical location of Chongsheng Temple—with its back against Cangshan and facing Erhai—its multi-courtyard layout, magnificent architectural structure, and the perfect integration of the three pagodas with the temple all left me in awe.
Dali No. 1 Courtyard was my last hotel on this Yunnan trip. It is said that the singer Faye Wong always stays here when she visits Dali. Of course, I am not Faye Wong, but I figured that if it’s her choice, the environment and conditions must be good. Dali No. 1 Courtyard is located in a corner of Dali Ancient Town, in an excellent location. Especially when standing on the balcony of the bathroom, overlooking the distant Cangshan and the ancient town below, one feels relaxed and happy. The bathroom was spotless; I drew the sheer curtains, filled the bathtub with warm water, and half-lay in it. Through the bright high window, the beautiful scenery of Cangshan came into view, instantly relieving all my fatigue—so comfortable. Since it was still during the pandemic, Dali Ancient Town had surprisingly few tourists, lacking its usual bustle. Strolling leisurely in it, I felt exceptionally joyful, sometimes even wishing I could “stay forever as a guest in Dali.”
On May 17, I bid farewell to Dali, then drove straight to Kunming Airport, taking the evening flight back to Shenzhen, ending my short six-day Yunnan trip.
