Yunnan: Encounter in Lijiang, a Classic Route Tour Under the Sky of Fate

Yunnan has always been a top travel destination for Chinese people, with its romantic atmosphere, mysterious ethnic groups, and leisurely pace. After the pandemic stabilized, I chose a classic Yunnan tour on the "Kunming–Dali–Lijiang" route. Before setting off, preparation is the most important thing. Nowadays, some travelers prefer independent trips or self-driving, while others opt for hassle-free group tours. This time, I chose a group tour.

(1) Yunnan has a highland southwest monsoon climate with large day–night temperature differences. Please bring appropriate clothing based on the local weather. The UV rays in Yunnan are quite strong, so ladies, make sure you're ready with sun protection (sunglasses, sun hat, sunscreen, umbrella).

(2) When taking a flight or train, you must carry valid ID such as identity card, military officer certificate, passport, etc. Children without an ID must bring their household registration booklet or passport. If you lose your ID, go to the police station of your registered residence to get a temporary boarding certificate.

(3) Yunnan's altitude is high and may cause altitude sickness. Bring medication and buy more chocolate, beef jerky, and similar foods.

(4) People entering Yunnan from other regions need to scan a health code to declare their health status; you'll need to show the health code when entering or leaving airports (train stations) and scenic spots.

I flew to Kunming Changshui Airport. After collecting my luggage, I found the designated meeting point and was taken by the airport pickup staff to the hotel. The first day did not include meals or attraction visits. If you arrive early, you can explore the city on your own and solve the dining issue. On the ground floor of the hotel there was a rice noodle shop, and I had my first meal in Yunnan for just over ¥10.

Hotel | A trendy, clean, and simply decorated budget hotel

[Transportation] 4 km from Guandu Ancient Town, 2 km from Century Golden Resources Shopping Mall, 22 km from Changshui International Airport, 3 km from Kunming International Convention and Exhibition Center, 5 km from Wanda Plaza.

[Facilities] The exterior is ordinary, but the interior is very stylish. The lobby is grand and upscale. The corridors are carpeted. Standard twin room, simply decorated, small but well-equipped, with a practical desk, a wall-mounted LCD TV, free Wi-Fi, central air conditioning, and a bathroom with dry–wet separation and a shower cubicle.

[Service] Only one key card is provided; no need to insert the card for power. If you need the door opened, you have to call a staff member.

[Food & Beverage] Breakfast is provided. There are many dining options around the hotel, and a rice noodle shop is on the ground floor.

Kunming Meiyin Hotel, No. 1689 Yulong Road, Guandu District, Kunming

Attraction | Photographing the beautiful "Ashima" in the World Geopark, the Stone Forest

[Transportation] 78 km from Kunming city proper, about a 50-minute drive via the Kunming–Shilin Expressway.

[Environment] A 5A-level scenic area, the Stone Forest Scenic Area has been designated a "World Geopark" and "World Natural Heritage Site" by UNESCO. The Stone Forest gained fame thanks to Long Yun, former chairman of Yunnan Province under the Nationalist government, who even inscribed the two characters "石林" (Stone Forest). The scenic area mainly consists of the Stone Forest Scenic Area, the Black Pine Crag Scenic Area, the Flying Dragon Waterfall Scenic Area, and the Changhu Lake Scenic Area. The Greater Stone Forest is composed of dense stone peaks, upright and steep, with smooth lines; the tallest standalone pillar reaches over 40 meters high. Typical sights include Lotus Peak, Sword Peak Pond, Back from the Brink, Extremely Narrow Passage, Elephant-Platform Stone, Secluded Orchid Valley, and Phoenix Wings Grooming. The best place to enjoy the "forest of stone" is the Viewing Pavilion.

[Summary] There are many tourists, mostly in groups. You must stick close to your tour leader to avoid getting lost. From the parking lot to the scenic area entrance is another 7 km, so you need to buy a ¥25 battery car ticket. Inside the Stone Forest there are many small paths, so don't wander off. If you really get lost, you can press the SOS button for rescue, but it's over ¥10,000 and you have to pay yourself!

Stone Forest Scenic Area, Shilin Town, Shilin Yi Autonomous County, Kunming

Restaurant | Braised fish, roast duck, and of course Yunnan's special steam pot chicken

[Transportation] Very close to the Stone Forest, less than a 10-minute drive.

[Environment] In front of the restaurant is a row of fruit stalls with various fruits at ¥10 per portion. On the ground floor are tourist goods shops; dining is on the second floor. The restaurant is clean and bright, not too crowded, with decent spacing between tables.

[Service] Designed for group meals, the food is served incredibly fast.

[Taste] Don't expect anything particularly delicious from a group meal; there's braised fish, roast duck, and of course, Yunnan-style steam pot chicken.

[Summary] The group members were fairly well-mannered and didn't scramble for food. The drawback was that the dishes weren't hot enough.

Yijia Shiwan Restaurant, near the West-Shilin No. 1 Highway, Kunming outskirts

After touring Kunming, we got on the expressway toward Dali. Along the way we stopped in Chuxiong to eat a meal and stay overnight. Why? To boost the local economy! The guide kept emphasizing that each tourist can help maintain 24 local jobs.

Restaurant | Yunnan specialty mushroom hot pot with a chicken broth base – light, nutritious, and not greasy

[Transportation] Heading from Kunming to Dali, we stopped over in Chuxiong for dinner and an overnight stay, said to support the local economy.

[Environment] A restaurant with ethnic style; clean and bright, not crowded, with decent spacing.

[Service] At the door, aunties in ethnic dress dance to welcome guests. Once seated, people in ethnic costumes come to sing and add to the festive mood.

[Taste] One of the better meals: a Yunnan specialty mushroom hot pot with a chicken broth base – light, nutritious, not oily. Various mushrooms are mixed in, very healthful. The table is filled with vegetables; you can also ask for more noodles. If it's not enough, just call "A Hei Ge" (the local term for a young man) and they'll add more.

[Summary] The best meal in Yunnan. The hot pot was piping hot, vegetables and noodles could be freely refilled, and we could even taste some local rice wine. The only downside: no air conditioning, so it was a bit hot.

Rongfuyuan, Building B5-6, Yiren Waitan Hexie Port, Chuxiong City

Hotel | A large hotel tucked in a small mountain town

[Transportation] About 19.7 km straight-line distance from Chuxiong Station, or 22.6 km by car from the city, around 28 minutes.

[Facilities] The exterior has architectural character. Inside it's relatively simple, like an ordinary guesthouse. Carpeted corridors. Standard twin room with simple decoration; the room is small but well-appointed, with two armchairs by the window, a practical desk, a wall-mounted LCD TV, and "national hygiene products" provided on the nightstand. Free Wi-Fi, central air conditioning, bathroom with dry–wet separation and a shower cubicle.

[Service] Only one key card; you need to insert it for power.

[Food & Beverage] Breakfast is provided, though the variety is limited; it'll fill you up.

Chuxiong Hongqiang Hotel, opposite Lühe Middle School on Xindajie, Lühe Town, Chuxiong City

Attraction | Enjoy a full cruise on the beautiful Erhai Lake, feeling the gentle caress of the wind under the blue sky

[Transportation] We took a coach to the VIP private yacht dock and boarded an Erhai Lake "private yacht" to enjoy the most beautiful Erhai scenery.

[Environment] Arriving at Dali Town, the coach parked in the lot and we walked through the town, admiring local customs and life on the way to the pier.

[Summary] There are many private berths around here. We boarded at a regular cruise pier; a combined boat and entrance ticket costs ¥180 per person. The passenger count is limited, so you won't feel jostled by crowds or overwhelmed by noise. You can leisurely sail around the beautiful Erhai Lake, feeling the gentle breeze under the blue sky.

Caicun Pier, Maritime Tourism Company, Dali Town, Dali City

Attraction | Take the elevator to the top of the Luo Quan Pagoda on Luo Quan Peninsula for a full view of Cangshan and Erhai under the blue sky

[Transportation] Head to the VIP private yacht dock and board an Erhai Lake "private yacht" to enjoy the most beautiful Erhai scenery.

[Environment] The yacht docks at Luo Quan Peninsula on the eastern shore of Erhai Lake, facing the ancient town of Dali. This area evolved from the original Tianjing Pavilion Scenic Area and includes Guanyin Pavilion, Taizi Pavilion, Baxian Tower, Tianjing Pavilion, Luo Quan Pagoda, Luo Quan Temple, Shiluozi, and other sights. During the late Nanzhao period, it was a solemn Buddhist holy site by Erhai Lake. In the Tang Dynasty's Tianbao war, the Nanzhao kingdom twice defeated the Tang army, with Master Luo Quan playing a key role. The king, Geluofeng, granted the eastern cliff land to Master Luo Quan. Ever since, the peninsula, temple, and pagoda have all borne the name "Luo Quan," unchanged for over a thousand years.

[Summary] With the "private yacht," there's no jostling or noise. You can fully enjoy a cruise on beautiful Erhai Lake and also visit Luo Quan Peninsula to explore its past glory. For ¥10 per person you can take the elevator to the top of the Luo Quan Pagoda for a panoramic view of Cangshan and Erhai; for ¥80 per person you can experience the over-600-meter-long "Mountain Rafting" slide, the first water slide in western Yunnan.

Luo Quan Peninsula Tourism Area, Huanhai Road, Haidong Town, Dali

Attraction | Dali Ancient City carries the memories of history

[Transportation] We parked in the ancient city's parking lot, then bought sightseeing car tickets at ¥35 per person to reach the city gate. Only sightseeing cars are allowed inside the ancient city; cars must park outside.

[Environment] Dali Ancient City is also called Yeyu City, Forbidden City, or Zhonghe Town. Its history can be traced back to the Yangqiemie City built by Nanzhao King Geluofeng during the Tang Tianbao period. The present ancient city was built in the 15th year of the Ming Hongwu reign. There used to be a moat and city walls with gates and towers in the east, west, south, and north, plus corner towers. In the early post-liberation period, the walls were torn down. In 1982, the south gate was rebuilt, and the characters "大理" (Dali) on the gate were collected from Guo Moruo's calligraphy.

[Summary] The streets inside form a classic grid pattern. Nowadays they are mostly tourist areas lined with shops selling souvenirs. You can also find quiet, less-visited corners for photos. If you're not in a hurry, walk slowly and head toward the residential side – you may stumble upon something different.

Dali Ancient City, No. 42 Yita Road, Dali City

Attraction | The most beautiful thing is the transparent chapel – blending into heaven and earth, simply gorgeous

[Transportation] The coach took us to the jeep base, where we switched to a jeep, four people per vehicle.

[Environment] Arriving at the garden entrance, the jeeps lined up for photos – one free photo per group. Then we entered the Instagram-famous spot: ahead, water and sky merged into one; behind, flowers bloomed in all four seasons. With lovely flowers and happier hearts, we were surrounded by wafts of subtle fragrance.

[Summary] The farmland on both sides of the road has been turned into various flower gardens. Besides fresh blossoms, there are photo props among the flowers. The most beautiful was the transparent chapel, blending into heaven and earth – just stunning.

Taoran Tianshe, 50 m south of Yinxian Xi, Fengbei South Line, Yinqiao Town, Dali City

Restaurant | Braised fish, a platter, and of course Yunnan-style steam pot chicken

[Transportation] After photographing at the garden, it was a short walk to this roadside restaurant.

[Environment] Various stalls selling snacks in front. The restaurant is clean and bright, not crowded, with decent spacing; no A/C.

[Service] Group meal service, food came out incredibly fast.

[Taste] Don't expect special deliciousness from a group meal: braised fish, roast duck, and of course Yunnan steam pot chicken.

[Summary] Group members were polite and didn't scramble for food. The downside was that the dishes weren't hot enough.

Hotel | A themed boutique hotel based on the "Dali Wellness Lifestyle"

[Transportation] Located on the south side of Dafeng Road in the Manjiang District, Development Zone of Dali City, near the airport main road, 3 km from the railway station.

[Facilities] A modern Chinese-style hotel, designed around the concept of "leisure, nourishment, and slow living" – a boutique cultural hotel embodying the Dali wellness lifestyle. Room types include standard, deluxe, Japanese-style mini rooms, family rooms, hot-spring rooms, mahjong rooms, and family suites. The lobby is grand and upscale. Carpeted corridors. Standard twin room simply decorated, small but well-appointed, with carpet on the floor, a sofa by the window, and a desk (but no stool; after calling the front desk, they brought one up). Wall-mounted LCD TV, free Wi-Fi, central air conditioning, bathroom with dry–wet separation and a shower cubicle.

[Service] Only one key card; you need to insert it for power. Service attitude was good.

[Food & Beverage] Breakfast provided; there's a restaurant upstairs. It'll fill you up.

Yunrui Hotel (Dali Dongfang Branch), south side of Dafeng Road, Manjiang District, Development Zone, Dali City

On the way from Dali to Lijiang, we switched to a local guide during lunch – visiting Lijiang requires a Lijiang guide.

Attraction | Stepping into a sea of flowers at Lashihai, where water and sky merge into one

[Transportation] 10 km west of Lijiang City: Lashihai Wetland Park.

[Environment] The largest highland lake in Lijiang territory, and the first nature reserve in Yunnan named after a "wetland." "Lashi" is an old Naxi transliteration: "la" means barren plain, "shi" means new – so it means "new barren plain." Every year around 30,000 waterfowl overwinter here. With mountains reflected in water and emerald green surroundings, the scenery is exceptionally beautiful.

[Summary] This is a self-funded project; if you don't pay, you can only wait until others finish. It's a package: rose sea, bamboo raft cruise, and horse riding. The flower sea and boat ride are at the same location. The season wasn't right, so the roses weren't that extensive. By the sea there's a photo spot resembling a "mirror of the sky" where you can take some pictures.

Lashihai Huahuase Rose Manor, No. 6, Shuangshi Section, Xinhua Street, Lashihai, Lijiang

Attraction | Walking slowly along country paths, climbing the hills to retrace the Ancient Tea Horse Road

[Transportation] After visiting Huahuase Rose Manor, a vehicle took us to the horse ranch.

[Environment] There are many horses inside. Yunnan horses are short-legged, historically known for their endurance as "Yunnan horses," the most important transport animals on the Tea Horse Road. Their traits are steadiness and long endurance, suited to rugged mountain trails. Three horses are tied together, with a "Pang Jin Ge" (local term for a man) leading the lead horse. We ambled along country paths and headed up the hill to retrace the ancient trade route.

[Summary] The self-funded package is ¥200 per person, covering the garden and horse riding. Raincoats are provided on horseback – the ride goes on even in rain. At the hilltop there's a rest area; you can buy corn for ¥10 to feed the horses.

Mei Li Junliang Horse Farm, Lashihai Huahuase Rose Manor, Lijiang

Attraction | Lijiang Ancient City's bar street is probably the liveliest spot at night

[Transportation] Lijiang Ancient City has no fortifications – no city wall or gate tower – and covers a large area.

[Environment] Naxi murals, the Big Waterwheel, Sifang Street – these are icons of Lijiang Ancient City. Small bridges over flowing streams, rows of houses, and a dazzling array of ethnic handicrafts let you experience Naxi culture and taste the flavor of Lijiang's unique bar street. Stroll the streets on stone-slab paths, savor the scene where every household has a stream winding past and weeping willows, competing with the beauty of Jiangnan. The central square constantly echoes with joyful singing and dancing, reminding you to slow down and relax.

[Summary] Lijiang Ancient City's bar street is probably the most popular place at night. As long as you feel like it, you can grab a drink and savor the local culture. During the pandemic, there were set closing times – they couldn't stay open too late.

Performance | A comprehensive display of Lijiang's unique and profound ethnic culture

[Transportation] Opposite the Red Sun Square. Coaches can't stop there, so we got off at the corner and walked. Outside the entrance there are many taxis; none use the meter – they quote a fixed price. I recommend using DiDi; a driver will accept quickly.

[Environment] "Lishui Jinsha" is a grand song and dance show in the form of a dance poem, bringing together the distinctive cultural aura of the northwest Yunnan highlands and the ancient, unparalleled cultural treasures of the Naxi kingdom. It selects the most representative cultural imagery of Lijiang's ethnic groups, using water, mountains, and emotions to comprehensively showcase Lijiang's unique and profound ethnic culture.

[Summary] This performance was included in the tour package – valued at ¥260 per person. The show was good, with a large cast. The one drawback: the whole one-hour performance had no narration; the dancers just kept dancing on stage.

Lishui Jinsha Show, opposite Red Sun Square

Restaurant | Sizzling yak hot pot – irresistible, you can't stop eating

[Transportation] A large open area out front makes parking very convenient.

[Environment] Clean and bright, not crowded, decent spacing; no A/C.

[Service] Group meal service – food came extremely fast.

[Taste] We had yak meat, super delicious. After finishing the yak, you can add various seasonal vegetables; they absorb the broth and are equally scrumptious.

[Summary] The second satisfying meal on this Yunnan trip. The temperature was moderate, so even without A/C it wasn't too hot.

Naxi Style Theme Restaurant, No. 119, Shangduan, Zhaishang Street, Zhaishang Houdong

Hotel | The only upside: it's close to Lijiang Ancient City

[Transportation] Tucked inside a residential area; hard to find without navigation.

[Facilities] Though called a hotel, it's really an ordinary guesthouse, a bit dated. Standard twin room, simple decor, small but well-equipped, with two armchairs by the window and a desk. Wall-mounted LCD TV, free Wi-Fi, split air conditioning. The bathroom had no shower cubicle, so water splashed everywhere.

[Service] Only one key card; you need to insert it for power.

[Food & Beverage] Breakfast provided, limited variety but it fills you up.

Westin Hotel (not the chain – a local hotel using the name), No. 54, Shangcun, Zhaishang, Xi'an Subdistrict

Attraction | You can walk via a boardwalk to the highest accessible point on the glacier at 4,680 m

[Transportation] From Lijiang city, take the "Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area" shuttle bus, about 35 km north of the ancient city, directly to the scenic area.

[Environment] A 5A-level scenic area, the highlight is the Glacier Park at the summit. The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain cable car lower station is at 3,356 m, riding up to the upper station directly below the main peak Shanzidou at 4,506 m. The cable car is 2,914 m long with a vertical drop of 1,150 m, one of the highest tourist cable cars in China.

[Summary] The altitude is very high; watch out for altitude sickness. It's best to buy a portable oxygen canister before going up, though it's pricey at ¥60 per bottle. The cable car requires queuing; each cabin holds 8 people. After a swinging, roughly 10-minute ride, you arrive at the upper station at 4,506 m. Once you acclimatize, you can follow the boardwalk to the highest point currently accessible at 4,680 m. On the snow mountain, luck plays a big role: sometimes rain, sometimes sunshine. When I ascended, it was raining and foggy outside.

Glacier Park, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain National Scenic Area

Attraction | Dreamlike Blue Moon Valley, its colors shifting with changing sunlight

[Transportation] From Lijiang city, take the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain shuttle bus, about 35 km north of the ancient city.

[Environment] After visiting Glacier Park, we took an eco-bus to Blue Moon Valley. The snowmelt from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain flows here, gathering into streams and creeks, eventually forming a crystal-clear, sweet stream in the upper reaches of the valley. The riverbed is white limestone, giving the whole river a white sheen, exceptionally pure, hence the name "White Water River." Due to surface minerals, the water creates enchanting colors. As the river flows, it's blocked by mountains, forming four larger stretches of water: Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening to the Waves Lake.

[Summary] I bought a ¥50 battery car ticket, riding in sections and walking in between, divided into three portions. Walking along the boardwalk, taking photos as we went, the scenery was superb.

Blue Moon Valley, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain National Scenic Area

Attraction | Named after the mountain, a village whose name evolved to mean "the village below the high peak"

[Transportation] There is a large parking lot opposite Shuhe Ancient Town.

[Environment] One of the earliest settlements of the Naxi ancestors on the Lijiang plain, a well-preserved important market town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and a living specimen of the Naxi people's transition from farming to commercial civilization. It is a model of a town shaped by trade and caravan activities. In Naxi language, Shuhe is called "Shaowu" because the treasure mountain behind the village resembles a high heap; the village was named after the mountain, and through linguistic shift it came to mean "the village below the high peak."

[Summary] Need I say more? Nowadays it's a hub of guesthouses, restaurants, cafés, ethnic clothing shops, and more. During the pandemic, there were few tourists; many shops were closed. Due to time constraints, I could only take a quick glance and didn't get to deeply experience the local culture.

Shuhe Ancient Town, near Chama Road

Restaurant | Famous for its Xiangshan cured spare ribs and free-range chicken hot pot, though group meals didn't include these

[Transportation] Near the back gate of Xiangshan Market, next door to Qinma Hot Pot.

[Environment] Clean and bright, not crowded, decent spacing; no A/C.

[Service] Group meal service – food came incredibly fast.

[Taste] Their signature dishes are Xiangshan cured spare ribs and free-range chicken hot pot, but the group meal had none of those. We had stir-fried potatoes, turnip spare ribs, papaya pork...

[Summary] Group members were polite and didn't scramble. The downside: dishes weren't hot enough. After eating, we prepared to head up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Yixianglu Restaurant (Huama Street Flagship), Beijiao Zhuantai Stop, Huama Street

After the last stop, Shuhe Ancient Town, we had a group meal, then the guide bid us goodbye. The coach took us directly to Lijiang Railway Station, where we took a sleeper train back to Kunming. Driving would take over 8 hours; the train was definitely more comfortable. This train departed at 10:30 p.m., so there was plenty of time. Some people got hourly rooms at nearby hotels, others went to a snack street to eat – just killing time. After boarding, I discovered the carriage was double-decker with two bunks on each level – first time riding such a train. With the rumble of the rails, we arrived at 9:00 the next morning. After getting off, the transfer staff took us to breakfast. After breakfast, we went to a "tourist distribution center," then were dropped at the airport according to our respective flight times.

Restaurant | Holding a huge bowl, adding condiments and fixings to assemble your own rice noodle soup

[Transportation] Sanye Food City near Kunming Railway Station.

[Environment] Clean and bright; no A/C. Pay first, then collect. You line up to receive a large bowl of broth with chunks of meat. Then you walk along to add condiments: mint leaves, chopped green onion, small red chilies. At the end are various rice noodles; choose your favorite type and pour it into the bowl.

[Service] Entirely self-service. Staff only handle payment and clearing bowls.

[Taste] The flavor was good – because you season it yourself, you can adjust to your taste. Unlimited rice noodle refills; eat till you're full. For takeaway, limited to three bowls.

[Summary] The transfer team picked us up from Kunming Railway Station and first brought us here to fill our bellies. The brand is said to be fairly authentic locally.

Tuanshan Small Yellow Cattle Rice Noodles (Kunming Station branch), near Kunming Railway Station

Day 1: Fly to Kunming, airport pickup.

Day 2: Kunming hotel – Shilin Yi Autonomous County Stone Forest – lunch – Pu'er tea culture hall (Longrun Tea) – Chuxiong, taste Yunnan special wild mushroom hot pot – hotel in town.

Day 3: Chuxiong hotel – Erhai Lake Luo Quan Peninsula – lunch – Jeep Erhai flower sea tour (gift group photo) – Dali Ancient City – overnight in Dali.

Day 4: Dali hotel – Jade and Fengqing Museum – silverware shopping store and Bai ethnic three courses of tea song and dance performance – Lashihai Rose Manor (boat ride and Tea Horse Road horseback riding) – Lijiang dinner – Lijiang Ancient City – Lishui Jinsha show.

Day 5: Lijiang hotel – Huanglong Jade National Treasure Hall – lunch – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley – Shuhe Ancient Town – railway station, sleeper train.

Day 6: 9:30 Kunming breakfast – Yunnanyi Huipin (Yunnan specialty shopping point) – airport drop-off.

In the afternoon of Day 2 there was a Pu'er tea shop; on the morning of Day 4, silverware and jade stores; and in the morning of Day 5, a Huanglong jade store. All shops were legally operating, regular shops where purchases come with formal receipts. As long as goods are undamaged, you can enjoy a 30-day unconditional return with the receipt.

Travelogue Directory

1. Tips

2. Kunming

3. Chuxiong

4. Dali

5. Lijiang

6. Kunming

7. Itinerary

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