One of Life's Three Great Regrets: The Yunnan Matsutake Chicken Soup That Was Fed to My Mouth but Never Drunk

During today's chat, I finally settled on the title for my Yunnan travelogue, once again stabbing A Zhang in the heart. Tears welled up.

As I recall Yunnan, I realize many details have already faded, and it's only been a year. There's so much I want to hold onto, but now I find that what I truly remember is very little. I hope this travelogue can help us remember every important moment.

I used to have a bad impression of Yunnan, thinking it was a place only people of my parents' age would enjoy. Later, after seeing friends go to Xishuangbanna, I thought it seemed pretty good. I can't quite remember how we decided on this destination—probably just asked each other if we had any plans for National Day, and then it was set. It wasn't until we reached Shangri-La and Lugu Lake that my impression of Yunnan completely changed. Beautiful mountains, clear waters, and stunning scenery—that's probably what Yunnan is all about.

I. Preparation: 6,000 yuan per person

1. Flights (1,500 yuan per person)

2019.10.03 Guangzhou–Shangri-La, China Eastern MU5774, 07:55–10:55

2019.10.10 Kunming–Guangzhou, China Southern CZ3490, 22:00–00:20

Considering the large number of tourists during National Day, and because of the altitude, the classic route through Yunnan is from Dali to Lijiang and then to Shangri-La. To avoid the crowds, we chose to fly directly to Shangri-La and travel counterclockwise. As it turned out, our choice was correct—there were almost no tourists in Shangri-La for the first few days, and by the time we reached Lijiang and Lugu Lake, many tourists had already left. However, this required good physical condition, as Shangri-La has an altitude of over 3,000 meters. One of our companions unfortunately suffered from altitude sickness.

2. Accommodation (1,500 yuan per person)

There were many accommodation options in Yunnan. We mostly booked guesthouses, and every host we met was very kind, helping us experience a lot of local culture and customs.

3. Transportation (800 yuan per person)

There are tourist shuttle buses between different places in Yunnan. Buses from Shangri-La to Lijiang and from Lijiang to Lugu Lake generally take five to six hours. For local travel, we chose to hire a private car because there were three of us girls and safety came first. Hiring a car also saved time. Usually, the guesthouse hosts could arrange such services, mainly in Shangri-La and Lugu Lake. We asked the guesthouse hosts to arrange car hires for both locations.

4. Since Shangri-La is a high-altitude area, we started taking Rhodiola rosea a week in advance. Although many say it doesn't help much, it's better than nothing. We also prepared some glucose and other supplies. If feeling unwell, we needed to take oxygen promptly.

2019.10.03 Guangzhou–Shangri-La–Shika Snow Mountain–Dukezong Ancient Town

2019.10.04 Dukezong Ancient Town–Pudacuo–Dukezong Ancient Town

2019.10.05 Dukezong Ancient Town–Balagezong–Dukezong Ancient Town

2019.10.06 Dukezong Ancient Town–Napa Lake–Songzanlin Monastery–Lijiang

2019.10.07 Lijiang–Lugu Lake

2019.10.08 Lugu Lake–Lijiang

2019.10.09 Lijiang–Jade Dragon Snow Mountain–Lijiang Ancient Town

2019.10.10 Lijiang–Kunming–Guangzhou

When planning our Yunnan itinerary, we all agreed that the most interesting places were Shangri-La and Lugu Lake. With limited time, we had to choose between Dali and Lijiang. After looking at the map, we found that both Shangri-La and Lugu Lake required taking a bus from Lijiang, so we decisively gave up Dali.

Day 1: Guangzhou–Shangri-La–Shika Snow Mountain–Dukezong Ancient Town

Originally, because A Zhang had something to do, we couldn't leave until the 4th. But considering the short time we could play, it was better to go one day earlier and experience local life than stay in Guangzhou. So Z Z and I set off on the 3rd. The guesthouse host could pick us up from the airport. Shangri-La is small, and the airport is close to the ancient town. As soon as we got off the plane, we felt the cold of the high-altitude area. The weather was great—blue skies, white clouds. The view from the guesthouse window was beautiful.

At noon, we found a small restaurant and had Tibetan pork, delicious butter tea, highland barley cakes, and yogurt.

On the first day, we hesitated about going to the snow mountain because we had just arrived at high altitude and shouldn't tire ourselves too much. But we had most of the day left, and it seemed a waste not to go out. Other attractions had to wait for A Zhang to join, and we would go to another snow mountain later in Lijiang, so we chose Shika Snow Mountain. There are many snow mountains in Shangri-La; the most famous is probably Meili Snow Mountain, but it's far and usually requires a two-day trip, so we had to skip it this time, hoping to go another time.

There were cable cars both up and down the mountain. Z Z and I agreed that Shika's cable car might be the oldest we've ever taken. Every time it stopped at an intermediate station, we could feel the swaying and hear screeching noises. Just arrived at high altitude, we moved extremely slowly. The guy selling oxygen at the ticket gate asked if we wanted to buy some. When we said no, he teased us, saying, "Up there, no Zaxi will help you." Maybe we were a bit oxygen-deprived in the brain; Z Z and I wanted to laugh out loud but dared not. At the top, we had to climb a short mountain path, stopping every dozen or so steps to rest. The wind on the mountain was strong, howling, and the clouds at the summit were beautiful. While resting, we just sat there watching the clouds roll in, cold yet comfortable. A few days ago when chatting with Z Z, we said that Shika Snow Mountain was really beautiful, even though the wind was so strong we didn't fully appreciate it.

Dukezong Ancient Town had many good small restaurants, mostly run by locals, which could be found on review sites. We found a place serving Tibetan hotpot. Since yak meat hotpot was a local specialty and we wanted to wait for A Zhang to eat it together, we ordered a chicken pot. There were many diners that evening. The host seated us at a table next to the TV. We ate while watching Tibetan language teaching programs, wondering why they kept looping a few words, thoroughly entertained. The butter tea at the shop was delicious. Z Z and I finished an entire pot. It was cold outside but warm inside the small eatery.

Day 2: Dukezong Ancient Town–Pudacuo–Dukezong Ancient Town

We found a place serving clay pot highland barley noodles online. In the morning, we walked across the whole ancient town to a roadside spot outside the city. I don't quite remember the taste of the noodles, but I recall them being very good. Other tourists asked what we ordered. After the meal, we strolled along the ancient town's paths, quiet and leisurely. We turned the huge prayer wheel, which required about ten people to turn, and got a bird's-eye view of Dukezong Ancient Town during the day.

At noon, A Zhang finally arrived, quite late. She had a big appetite at lunch, wanting to order this and that. But once we got to Pudacuo, she couldn't handle it. Good thing we followed the guesthouse host's advice and brought oxygen tanks. From the scenic area bus to the main attraction was still a distance. A Zhang had altitude sickness, which triggered gastroenteritis, and she threw up along the way—so pitiful. Pudacuo only opened Shudu Lake as a scenic spot. Thanks to the opportunity of delivering a drone propeller for the guesthouse host's friend, we took some photos by the lakeshore. Even though the weather wasn't great, we still felt the beauty of Pudacuo. We walked along the lakeside boardwalk, and later it drizzled. A Zhang finished one oxygen can and bought another at the scenic area for either 50 or 100 yuan. Z Z used someone else's raincoat packaging as a makeshift rain cover. Thinking back, it was a bit miserable, but I didn't take a sneaky photo of her. Also, the host's friend shared some M&Ms with us. Despite A Zhang's suffering, the experience was quite unique.

On the way back, we happened upon a beautiful sunset—half blue, half orange, like a clash of ice and fire. Z Z complained that I didn't take the photos she wanted, but the scene is etched in our memories, isn't it?

By October, fresh matsutake mushrooms were already scarce. When we arrived, the host asked if we wanted to eat matsutake, which required advance ordering because the matsutake chicken soup needed to simmer for half a day. At A Zhang's strong insistence, we ordered it for that evening. It was so delicious—the umami of matsutake and the richness of chicken broth blended perfectly, refreshing and sweet. A huge pot was very generous. After returning, A Zhang rested in the room; she had no appetite. Z Z carried a bowl of hot soup up the steep stairs and brought it right to A Zhang's mouth, but she still couldn't drink it. We were too embarrassed to ask the host to reheat it repeatedly, so the leftover soup was given to the host's Border Collie, Jelly. When A Zhang woke up the next day, she regretted it immensely, repeatedly asking why we didn't save it for her the next day. This year, we visited Tibetan bars frequently. Poor A Zhang did get to eat fresh matsutake, but never fresh matsutake chicken soup. This will probably be something she talks about for a lifetime, hahaha.

Day 3: Dukezong Ancient Town–Balagezong–Dukezong Ancient Town

After oxygen and a night's rest, A Zhang was back in action. That day, the guesthouse host had to entertain friends, so a local driver, a young Tibetan guy, took us. He was interesting—a bit shy but cute. The drive to Balagezong was quite long. Along the way, he recommended songs he usually listens to and hummed along. He even helped us take photos that made us look like we had two-meter-long legs.

The weather in the high-altitude area is hard to predict. When you don't bring a jacket, it's freezing; when you bring one, it's hot. At the top of Balagezong, it was quite warm, and because we had to walk a lot, we didn't feel cold at all. The scenic area shuttle bus had an introduction to Balagezong that was very touching. Those interested can check online in advance. The scenic area is huge, with shuttle buses between each spot. The view from the highest point was spectacular—blue sky, white clouds, high mountains, deep valleys, refreshing and intoxicating.

In the evening, we went to a highly rated yak meat hotpot place in the ancient town. The meat was very generous. A Zhang initially wanted to order two pots because she didn't get to have the chicken pot—ha, she overestimated herself. One pot was already more than we could handle.

During the National Day holiday, the ancient town had activities every night. After dinner, we went for a walk and saw many people dancing Guozhuang—it was so lively.

Day 4: Dukezong Ancient Town–Napa Lake–Songzanlin Monastery–Lijiang

Autumn Napa Lake was shrouded in a thin layer of mist, like we were still half asleep—a bit hazy and confused. Maybe people on trips are always curious; they want to take pictures of everything. Even the cows grazing by the roadside seemed especially interesting. They say that during the rainy season, water covers the middle road, making it look like a sea.

Songzanlin Monastery, also known as the Little Potala Palace, is one of the must-visit attractions in Shangri-La. Every time I come to a place like this, I feel completely relaxed—maybe that's the power of faith.

At noon, the Tibetan driver took us to a small eatery he often goes to. The owner was fun. Although the matsutake chicken here couldn't compare to the guesthouse host's version, every dish was special, especially the yogurt residue. Sitting around a small stove and eating felt wonderful, like gathering around Grandma's stove during Spring Festival. It felt like home.

We booked tickets for the bus to Lijiang in advance on Ctrip. The journey took about five to six hours, passing by the Jinsha River. By the time we arrived in Lijiang, it was already dark. We found a very popular rib hotpot place—great value. For about 30 yuan per person, we were stuffed. We even gave the leftover dishes to the guys at the next table, haha.

The ancient town had many small shops selling accessories. Earrings were super cheap—we bought more than ten pairs together. We left reluctantly.

Day 5: Lijiang–Lugu Lake

Early in the morning, we took a bus to Lugu Lake, with a small hiccup along the way. Lugu Lake spans Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. The guesthouse we booked in advance was on the Sichuan side. The bus driver said the bus only stopped at Sanjia Village as a stop, which was different from the stops we saw online. He said our accommodation was too far, kept urging us to cancel, and offered to find us lodging. Not familiar with the local geography, we hesitated for a long time and almost canceled our original booking. But in the end, considering the cost, we didn't cancel. We made about a dozen phone calls with the guesthouse owner. When we arrived at the guesthouse in the evening, we were so glad we didn't cancel. Just one small regret: the guesthouse owner said on the platform that he would make persimmon beef for us that evening, but I didn't see the message. So regretful I could cry.

Originally, we planned to do a lake tour the next morning. But after learning about the route, accommodation location, and weather in the morning, we changed the plan and did a lake tour right after arriving in the afternoon. And this turned out to be a great decision. The driver arranged by the guesthouse owner picked us up and took us to a local steam pot fish place—so delicious!

One of the luckiest things along the way was that the drivers were all super nice. They would chat with us about local customs and share their own stories. While taking a boat on the lake, the weather cleared up from the gloomy morning. The sun shone brightly, and we saw the few remaining beautiful water flowers. The driver took us to every scenic spot. Passing by a cornfield, we really wanted to get off and take a look. The driver even gave us two ears of corn, which we later passed on as a gift to the guesthouse owner. The driver mentioned that he was already planning his own guesthouse. If we go next time, he said we could stay for free—hope he remembers his promise, haha.

At the Marriage Bridge, there was an uncle and a young guy who could shoot videos with drones. To save a few dozen yuan, we had Z Z add the young guy on WeChat, haha. Z Z chatted enthusiastically with him. When we got back to the guesthouse in the evening, we told the owner the story. He teased Z Z, saying she could let the guy come over for a "walking marriage" and give us an extra room for free, hahaha. Still makes me laugh.

After touring the lake, we checked into the guesthouse in the evening. We were so glad—glad we didn't switch guesthouses, glad we didn't give up our original choice due to various reasons. The guesthouse was right on the edge of Lugu Lake. Our room faced the lake. On the small balcony outside, there were two lounge chairs. A Zhang and I couldn't wait to lie down. Perfect.

The guesthouse owner, Brother Gang, told us that there was a performance at a nearby entertainment center in the evening, and we could also dance Guozhuang. With nothing else to do, we bought tickets and went. During the performance, they invited audience members on stage. Z Z and I, always enjoying a bit of trouble, immediately pushed A Zhang up. Now when I think back, it was funny to see A Zhang being tossed up by five or six Mosuo guys after she sang.

After the show, we found it was raining outside. I called Brother Gang, and he came to pick us up immediately. Back at the guesthouse, we sat in the lobby chatting with Brother Gang and another owner. Brother Gang, being from the Northeast, was great at talking about everything. To test if his dog—which he said could drink alcohol—really could, we opened a bottle of beer. And indeed, the dog could drink! What an amazing dog! Spending a night like that, aimlessly chatting, was somehow charming. I miss it.

Day 6: Lugu Lake–Lijiang

In the early morning, Lugu Lake was still misty. A Zhang and I went for a walk by the lake in our pajamas. Although it was a bit chilly, it was more refreshing. We went back to the room to freshen up, then went to the lobby for a bowl of noodles made by the auntie. After breakfast, while waiting for Z Z, we had a cup of coffee in the courtyard, gazing at the lake in the distance. Time seemed to stand still. After the meal, we rented shared electric scooters to go to Lover's Bay. A Zhang was quite good at riding, and she wanted to ride a small motorcycle.

Around noon, we had to catch the return bus. Reluctantly, we said goodbye to the owner (mainly because we didn't want to leave). We arrived in Lijiang again in the evening. We stayed in the ancient town, and the road to the guesthouse was a bit rough. Two guys came out to help us with our luggage. In the evening, we strolled around the ancient town.

Day 7: Lijiang–Jade Dragon Snow Mountain–Lijiang Ancient Town

Since we weren't very interested in the ancient town, we didn't spend much time in Lijiang. The main purpose was to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Because A Zhang had a history of altitude sickness, we went to the pharmacy the night before for oxygen and glucose. There was a dedicated bus from the ancient town to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain—just make sure to allocate enough time. Upon arriving at the scenic area, we first played around the entrance, which had a large forest. The distant view made for beautiful photos. At noon, we ate a little at the scenic area's buffet restaurant, then drank some glucose before going up the mountain. The ascent went more smoothly than expected. Maybe because we walked slowly the whole way, we hardly used oxygen. The wind at the top was quite strong, and we had to stop every ten to twenty steps to catch our breath. Everyone was bundled up tightly. At the time, we were bothered by some trivial matters, so we shouted a few times on the mountain. Later, thinking back, it felt like an insult to the snow mountain—those insignificant little things and people aren't worth it.

At the foot of the mountain, there was Blue Moon Lake, with its incredibly blue water. It actually felt a bit like lakes in New Zealand, haha. Many people were taking wedding photos there.

In the evening, the guesthouse owner organized a game of Werewolf. I realized there were so many staff guys at the guesthouse. It was quite fun.

Day 8: Lijiang–Kunming–Guangzhou

To be honest, I can't remember why we decided to go back to Guangzhou via Kunming. Maybe because there were more flights or cheaper tickets. But for whatever reason, it was worth it.

The guesthouse offered photography services, so we booked a time in advance. When I climbed up to the rooftop, I was not "nervous"—even though my toes betrayed me. The final photos were so-so, haha. After the photo session, we hurried through the ancient town to try the chicken soup noodles recommended by the owner. Maybe because we were in a rush, it didn't taste particularly good. After the meal, we took a taxi to the train station.

Since our flight was around 10 p.m., we decided to have dinner in Kunming. On the way, we looked up options and chose to eat Dai-style hand-grabbed rice. This hand-grabbed rice made us feel it was really worth the detour to Kunming. We ordered a set meal for just over 100 yuan for three people. The hand-grabbed rice came with many side dishes, each delicious. The Paoluda drink was also fantastic. The three of us couldn't finish it, but it was so good that we didn't want to waste it, so we packed the leftovers and brought them back to Guangzhou. After returning, we tried to find a place that served hand-grabbed rice, but unfortunately, we couldn't find any.

After dinner, we went to buy Jiahua flower cakes as souvenirs. We bought about a few dozen boxes. Friends said the freshly baked ones were indeed delicious.

Perhaps only by truly going to a place can you discover its beauty. This trip completely changed my impression of Yunnan. There are many places I want to visit again, twice, or even many times. Recently, a direct flight from Guangzhou to Lugu Lake was launched, and we're planning a revisit. But because of the pandemic, we don't know if it can happen. Looking forward to it.