A Group of Sun-Chasers: A Self-Drive Journey Through Western Yunnan

This was a long-planned journey—a self-drive from Chengdu to western Yunnan, to see blue skies and white clouds, red-billed gulls soaring, and the sunset sinking.

Originally planned for early December 2020, but unfortunately, imported cases in Chengdu's Pitong District suddenly caused the already calm pandemic situation to tense up. We heeded the call not to travel and pressed the pause button on our trip.

Finally, two weeks later, the outbreak was contained, and friends discussed taking a pre-Spring Festival trip to avoid peak crowds, moving the 2020 plan to early 2021. On January 8, 2021, we set off—two cars, 7.5 people. The 0.5 was a little princess, two years and eight months old. Having her along added a lot of fun to our tiring road trip.

I planned this trip, spread out the map and worked out the itinerary, incorporating everyone's ideas and revising it four times. During the actual journey, we adjusted on the fly according to weather changes and everyone's physical condition.

First, here is the route plan.

On the morning of January 8, we set off. Unfortunately, starting that day, a once-in-a-century cold wave swept across the country. We set our departure for 9:00 a.m. to avoid the rush hour. By then, snow was already falling in Chengdu's sky. Everyone was in high spirits, thinking southward: Yunnan is a place of eternal spring. Coincidentally, the Chengdu–Yibin–Zhaotong Expressway had just opened at midnight on December 31, 2020, shortening the journey by an hour, so we chose the route entering Yunnan via Shuifu in Yibin.

The drive was very smooth, except in the Zhaotong area where we encountered snow; white snow blanketed the mountain tops. We drove carefully while enjoying the beautiful snowy scenery.

We arrived at Huize Ancient Town in Yunnan at 7:00 p.m. The temperature was 0°C—freezing. After settling into a pre-booked guesthouse, we went out for dinner. We searched on a review app for a nearby fish hotpot restaurant and called to confirm it was still open. The little princess was such a good child; she had dinner with us at that late hour without any fuss, and everyone adored her.

After dinner, we braved the cold wind and walked back to the guesthouse.

On the morning of January 9, Huize's temperature was -3°C. Our plan was to photograph the Dongchuan Red Land. We checked the forecast and it was slightly warmer there, so we decided to stick to the plan. If it turned out to be too cold, we would head straight to our destination, Kunming.

This trip didn't include sightseeing in Huize Ancient Town, so after packing, we stopped at Huize Park on our way out to photograph the world's largest copper coin. We wanted to walk along the boardwalk through the coin's hole, but the boards were covered in ice; as soon as I stepped on it, I slipped and fell on my behind. We just took photos from below and then headed to Dongchuan.

A photo taken during a rest stop on the way to Dongchuan.

As soon as we entered Dongchuan, we were overjoyed: it was 16°C with brilliant sunshine, and we were glad about our decision. We got out and snapped a flurry of photos.

“Granny, a car is coming!”

Our little darling coordinated perfectly with us, pointing her tiny finger to the sky as well.

The texture of the land, a vision of harvest.

Leaving Dongchuan, we headed straight for Kunming.

We arrived in Kunming at 8:00 p.m., had dinner at a restaurant, and without much ado, went to bed early.

January 10. Our original plan was to go to Dianwei Village, but the forecast said the cold wave had reached Kunming with temperatures dropping to 3°C. So we discussed and adjusted the plan: spend the morning soaking in hot springs to ease two days' driving fatigue, then in the afternoon head towards Dali, chasing the sun. After freshening up, we went to the hot spring resort.

After resting at the resort, we drove to Chuxiong in the afternoon, breaking the journey to Dali into two legs for a more relaxed pace.

January 11. After breakfast in Chuxiong, we set off for Dali. The cold wave seemed to follow us all the way. The road from Chuxiong to Dali wound through the mountains. On the shaded side of the mountains, thick fog rolled in, visibility was very low, and we drove slowly; but once we reached the sunny side, the view opened up wide. At noon we arrived in Dali smoothly and stopped for lunch at a restaurant called San Yue San. Highly recommended: the food was truly delicious. The backyard was full of succulents, many of which I couldn't even name. The owners were very hospitable, and during our meal they also performed some local ethnic songs and dances.

By the shore of Erhai Lake in Dali, there's an inn called Focui Yunhai. The owner is a woman originally from Qingdao who settled in Chengdu. We've known each other through WeChat for years but had never met. Before the trip, I messaged her that we were coming, and she gave us a warm welcome. Though we arrived in Dali at midday, the cold wind was blowing hard. After settling into the inn, we lit the fireplace, took out our tea set, boiled water, and brewed tea. Looking out at the leaves swirling in the wind, we sat cozily by the fire, sipping tea, chatting, snacking, playing games, and playing mahjong.

This inn was quite large, three stories high. The ground floor had a lobby, kitchen, and staff rest area; the second and third floors were all guest rooms. Each room's window offered a view of Erhai Lake, and you could watch sunrise and sunset from bed. The rooms were exquisitely decorated, and the bathrooms were well-appointed with a bathtub, shower, smart toilet, and a spacious vanity. Everyone found a room they loved. The inn also had a huge garden; even in winter, though many flowers had withered, the garden was still neat and refreshing.

Brewing tea and roasting potatoes over a fire pit.

While friends played mahjong, I strolled around the garden and snapped a night view of it.

Lying in bed, you could watch the sunrise.

The view outside was enchanting.

Having breakfast in a sun-lit dining room in the morning kept us in good spirits all day.

We woke up on the morning of January 12. The wind had died down, though it was still cold—but much warmer than Kunming. After breakfast, we decided to drive around Erhai Lake.

The inn owner recommended Gusheng Village and Longkan Dock. After setting the GPS, we drove along the Erhai Lake ring road to Gusheng Village first.

When we arrived at Gusheng Village, we learned it's an ancient Bai ethnic village. In 2009, the village underwent Erhai Lake ecological restoration, improving the village's appearance and showcasing Bai culture. By 2014, the per capita net income of villagers had exceeded 10,000 yuan, and they were living a prosperous, happy life. In 2015, the General Secretary inspected Gusheng Village and highly praised the excellent ecological environment of Erhai Lake, saying 'lucid waters and lush mountains are invaluable assets.'

Bai ethnic temple in the village.

The grand stage in the village.

In the center of the village stood a large tree, right opposite the stage. It reminded me of Lu Xun's 'Village Opera' and the children climbing trees to watch the show.

The next stop was Longkan Dock. To get there, we had to pass through Dali Old Town. Everyone had visited the old town many times, so it wasn't on our itinerary, but since it happened to be lunchtime, we decided to have mushroom hotpot in the old town.

The firecracker vines in the old town were blooming profusely—a quick snapshot.

Nezha, definitely a favorite with kids.

After lunch, we left the old town and made our way to Longkan Dock. This was an abandoned dock that the local government was turning into a tourist attraction. When we visited, it was still under construction, but the basic shape was visible. The site wasn't officially open, but the small garden gate leading to the dock was unlocked. We went in and were greeted first by a Japanese-style dry landscape. Beyond that was a small grove, and at the edge of the grove, a long steel-and-wood boardwalk had been built. And then there was the vast, endless Erhai Lake.

Longkan Dock under construction

Outside the Longkan Dock scenic area

Pushing open the small gate into the site, a Japanese dry garden appeared before us.

Beyond the dry landscape was a grove of trees.

At the edge of the grove were the remains of the old dock and the newly built boardwalk.

Standing on the boardwalk, we gazed out at the boundless Erhai Lake. Because of the cold wave, the sky was overcast, making the photos of Longkan Dock look like ink-wash paintings.

After returning from Longkan Dock to the inn, we found the meat and vegetables we had asked the owner to buy already in the kitchen. Everyone pitched in and cooked dinner together—a lively affair. After dinner, mahjong commenced, and without much else, the night passed.

January 13. Today's plan was to visit Shaxi Ancient Town in Dali. Shaxi is 99 kilometers from our inn, about a 1.5-hour drive.

Today was sunny and 16°C. We sun-chasers finally had a wonderfully clear day. Although it was my third time in Shaxi, I still love it. It lacks the noise and commercialism of Lijiang, and the artificial, gaudy charm of Shuhe; here you find only authenticity, tranquility, and rustic elegance.

On the road from Dali to Shaxi, we saw hardworking villagers.

After parking at the parking lot, we entered the ancient town. The beams of the Shaxi inns were hung with cured meat, clearly being readied for the Spring Festival.

Strolling through the alleys of Shaxi Ancient Town.

Most ancient towns in Yunnan follow the 'square street' layout. In the center is a square plaza, once a marketplace. From the four corners, alleys lead outside the town. The square shaped streets served multiple purposes: marketplace, cultural and social hub. There had to be a temple and a stage on the square, and the spacious area was where locals danced and held song contests. Shaxi's square was no exception, and its stage architecture was exceptionally exquisite and grand.

Panorama of Shaxi's square.

The square was surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops.

There was a temple on the square, but we didn't enter because it charged an entrance fee. From the carving on the temple gate's foundation stones, you could tell it had some history.

The stage building on the square had a triple-eaved roof that provided excellent acoustics. In an age without microphones or speakers, this clever architectural design could carry sound far.

In the tranquil, rustic Shaxi Ancient Town, every window framed a picture.

When my hair grows to my waist, I'll ask the granny to braid it with colorful ribbons.

This is the only preserved remnant of the Tea Horse Road in the ancient town. It's said that when it rained and the river rose, horse caravans entering the village would bring mud from the river into town. To keep the streets clean, the villagers carried stones from the river and paved the road. Over time, horse hooves left many marks on the hard stones. Even today, you can still clearly see the hoof prints. However, compared to the 'Qin Five-Foot Road' at Dousha Pass, this ancient road is still very 'young'.

We followed this alley out of the town.

In ancient China, most cities and towns had a river outside, providing drinking water for people and livestock, irrigating farmland, and also serving as a defensive moat against invaders. Shaxi was no exception.

This was the horse market, also a place for training horses.

The river outside the town was cool and clear, with beautiful scenery—likely the moat of Shaxi Ancient Town.

It's said that the horse caravans would leave the town over this bridge to go and trade in foreign lands.

After returning from Shaxi, we decided to head back to Kunming the next day because the sun had returned there, and we would chase it.

January 14. We packed up, said goodbye to the innkeeper, and headed back to Kunming. Between Dali and Kunming there's a vacation town called 'Lixiang Bang,' about 40 kilometers from Dali, a 40-minute drive. It's a resort town built along Erhai Lake in the style of Santorini, Greece. Well, since we couldn't travel abroad due to the pandemic, we went there instead.

It's a real estate project, with houses for rent and sale, nestled among the blue sky and white clouds of Erhai Lake, giving off a bit of a Greek vibe. However, such scenery is more photogenic in summer; we were bundled up in puffy down jackets, looking round and round, so we just took a few photos and left.

January 15, Kunming. The weather was clear, 17°C, just perfect. We had long planned to visit Dianwei Village on the best day to photograph the dawn redwood trees. Dianwei is 65 kilometers from Kunming, about a 1.5-hour drive. This was a place I'd been longing to see, and it had to be in winter. In winter, the dawn redwood needles turn brownish-yellow, and under the sun against a blue sky, the forest glows a brilliant golden-red.

We arrived at Dianwei Village at noon. With the little one in mind, we decided to have lunch in the village first before sightseeing. We ate at a black goat stew restaurant. To be honest, restaurants in Yunnan are rather old-fashioned and simply furnished. My friends said that if a place looked like this in Chengdu, we wouldn't go in, but the food was delicious.

We asked locals and learned there was a dirt road leading to the edge of the redwood forest. Taking a chance, we found the dirt road and drove in. It was narrow and bumpy. After about ten minutes, the road widened a bit. As we were discussing where to park, a villager came by and told us that ahead there was a large structure like a biogas digester with a spacious area to park, and from there it was only a few minutes' walk to the forest. Delighted, we quickly found the round structure, parked, grabbed our things, and happily walked downhill.

From a distance, we could see the red dawn redwoods, and everyone got excited—even the little princess refused her stroller and insisted on walking with us, toddling along.

Wow, the sight before us was truly breathtaking. It seemed like a lake, with the dawn redwoods growing right in the water. The foliage had turned a deep rusty red, the sky was a brilliant blue, and the water reflected that blue. Sunlight, a gentle breeze, the water shimmering—and faintly, a white bridge could be seen cutting through the redwood forest. We had never seen such stunning beauty. Cheers and exclamations filled the air. More importantly, there was absolutely no one else around; we had the place entirely to ourselves.

I followed a steep path along the lake, slipping and sliding, until I reached the opposite shore. From there, I used a long lens to capture the bridge with my friends on it. I had thought of walking around the whole lake, but it was too far from the group, so I turned back from the other side.

The dawn redwood forest set against blue sky and white clouds.

A full view of the white bridge threading through the redwood forest. The bridge was old and in disrepair; many of its railings were broken.

As I wandered through the redwoods, I heard voices and followed them to find two elderly men fishing with rods. I struck up a conversation and learned that this was Songhuaba Reservoir. Every November, the reservoir stores water and submerges the redwood forest to purify the water. In March of the following year, they release the water for farming, and the redwoods sprout new green leaves. Oh, good thing I hadn't tried to circle the lake—it's a reservoir, almost impossible to walk all the way around!

How beautiful this place is! Why don't the locals turn it into a tourist attraction?! We all agreed that the best time to come would be December, because when we visited, most of the redwood leaves had already fallen, and up close they looked a bit past their prime.

Reluctantly leaving Dianwei Village, we returned to Kunming. It was 6:00 p.m. and the sunset was just right. We decided to head to Haiyan Village by Dianchi Lake, where there's a photography base known for capturing Dianchi sunsets.

We drove into Haiyan Village, where the roads were very winding and narrow. Any slightly wider spot was already taken by parked cars, and in the alleys, two cars couldn't pass each other. In the center of the village, many villagers had set up barbecue stalls, with people eating grilled tofu and potatoes. We were worrying about where to park when a villager warmly gestured for us to park in front of his house for a fee of 10 yuan. He then told us to follow the path to the lakeside to watch the sunset, as time was running short. This was a photography base, and with so many sunset viewers, parking fees had become a source of income for the villagers. We happily paid, thanked him for watching our car, and hurried toward Dianchi Lake. There were already many people there. To help visitors enjoy the sunset, the villagers had built a long concrete walkway stretching out into the lake, and it was packed with people. This was the season when red-billed gulls from Siberia fly to Yunnan for the winter, and tourists were feeding them and taking photos. Though the wind was picking up and the night chill returning, our excitement at watching the sunset made us oblivious to it all.

The long concrete walkway stretching into the heart of Dianchi Lake.

Red-billed gulls returning home at dusk danced in the evening glow.

Flying together, the rosy clouds and a lone duck; the autumn lake merges with the sky in one hue.

A tossed stone sent up splashes dyed in the colors of the sunset.

The dedicated photographer

Today was a fulfilling and satisfying day. The day after tomorrow was our planned departure back home, so tomorrow's schedule was very relaxed, allowing us to rest up and ensure a smooth journey back.

January 16. Today's plan was to enjoy Kunming Wetland Park, a 4A-level scenic spot. With the sunny weather, we rented a multi-person bike and rode around, taking photos as we went. The bike was great, with a special seat for the little one.

We danced along to the park's background music.

January 17. We started heading home. According to the weather forecast and navigation, the route back through Zhaotong would be shorter, but the cold wave had hit Zhaotong again with sub-zero temperatures, and the roads in the Zhaotong and Bijie sections were icy. Meanwhile, the Yaxi Expressway via Panzhihua and Xichang had temperatures of 8°C and good road conditions. Considering our little princess, we chose to return via the Yaxi Expressway, even though it's a longer distance, and decided to stay overnight in Xichang. Kunming is 513 kilometers from Xichang, about 7 hours by car. After checking into the hotel, we headed to Xichang's barbecue street. Visiting Xichang without having barbecue is like going to Beijing without seeing the Great Wall. We found a highly-rated barbecue restaurant on the review app and had a feast.

January 18, we left Xichang and drove directly back to Chengdu. It's 435 kilometers from Xichang to Chengdu, about a 6-hour drive. The roads were open, and the weather was very cooperative. We saw snow-capped mountains in the distance and drove on the Yaxi Expressway, acclaimed as the most beautiful highway in China—of course, we had to take photos.

When we reached Hanyuan in Ya'an, we decided to stop at Jiuxiang Town, which has a huge grain and oil farmers' market. Everyone happily bought meat to prepare for the upcoming Chinese New Year.

Our 11-day road trip came to a successful end, covering 3,407.4 kilometers. The little princess behaved wonderfully the whole way, never crying or fussing, and even kept up her daily children's English lessons. The grandparents on the trip adored her.

Everyone returned safely to their warm and happy homes.

The final itinerary we followed is below. We didn't have the time or energy to visit Jianshui Ancient Town, and because of the cold wave, we also skipped Lijiang. All other plans were completed, especially my long-awaited visits to Songhuaba Reservoir for the red dawn redwoods and Haiyan Village to photograph the Dianchi sunset, both realized on this trip. Thanks to the little princess and my friends for journeying with me.

Here's a map of our route.