8 Days in Yunnan, from Tengchong to Dali: Beyond the Glitz, They Are Ordinary and Real

📍 Kunming · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 37 likes

Looking back on the past year, it was a year of stumbling and stubbornness. Perhaps it was this very moment that subtly shifted my long-held perspective on things, making me braver in making decisions, whether to pause or to keep moving forward.

Taking a break lets you recharge, and once you find your direction, you can start running again. During the days when traveling abroad was impossible, I looked for a place with few people to just zone out.

Then a quiet border town came into view: Tengchong in Yunnan. A life of anonymity, maybe possible here.

Under the name of Tengchong, I revisited Dali and Kunming along the way, a mix of surprises and pitfalls, but luckily everything went smoothly. Suddenly it dawned on me that what we chase in travel is simply an ordinary and real life. Finding small joys amidst the busyness, seeing touching scenery the moment you look up—what a lucky thing that is.

We don't always get what we want, but hey, that's life.

Isn't travel just a part of the myriad facets of life?

Speaking of Tengchong, though it has volcanic geothermal features, the most worthwhile place to explore is Heshun Ancient Town. In Heshun, there's a sign that reads:

'There is a flavor called Heshun. Warm as jade, as good as water. Amidst that cluster of ancient buildings embraced by volcanic heat seas, echoes the bells of merchant caravans, wafts the scent of scholarly families, spreads the thought of popular philosophy, and even more, leaves behind stirring elegy! Not experiencing the flavor of Heshun once in your life might be a regret.'

Heshun Ancient Town is a tranquil ancient city that few visit. Although the TV drama 'Beijing Love Story' brought it fame, inconvenient transport keeps it a secluded town. Stone-slab paths climb the hillside, grey-tiled roofs scatter in charming disarray. Choose a courtyard guesthouse for three days, and you'll discover the beauty of this mountain town.

Most of the time in the ancient town belongs to nature, quiet and ordinary. Residents gather in courtyards to chat, gaze at the scenery, and exchange family gossip—life is just that.

Heshun now has about 6,000 residents, while over 10,000 Heshun people live overseas, earning it the title 'Hometown of Overseas Chinese.' Everywhere you see Hui-style architecture, memorial archways, ancestral halls, and cultural roots—they are the most precious treasures here.

Beside the ancient town stretches a vast paddy field, nourishing generations. Walk to the other side, and you'll see the entire hillside town more clearly, layered and growing upward.

Tricycles rumbling by at dawn carrying fresh produce, breakfast stalls where charcoal crackles under hot rice noodles, afternoons hiding from the sun in a cozy nap, kids skipping out of school with joy... these are the ordinary scenes unfolding daily.

The expanse of rice paddies nestling against Heshun is incredibly photogenic. In harvest season, the boundless golden fields grow over a meter tall, making us city folks linger and snap photos for ages...

Over 400 years ago, villagers began 'going to Yifang' (going abroad). Since Heshun is only 70 kilometers from Myanmar, many ventured there for the jade business, some becoming magnates. Returning home in glory, they built mansions and funded ancestral halls. Hence the town boasts eight grand ancestral halls, each in a different style.

Strolling along the river that skirts the town, you'll spot several laundry pavilions. Back then, most men 'went to Yifang' to earn a living, while women stayed home washing clothes and caring for the family. To shelter them from wind and sun while doing laundry by the river, these pavilions were built. Over time, they dotted the entire route.

If you want to fully soak in Heshun, at least three days are needed—not rushing to tick off every landmark, but unhurriedly treading every stone path: the morning cooking smoke, the serene afternoons, the twilight hues, the starry night sky... especially after you leave, you'll doubly miss this simple life.

Heshun Ancient Town Tips

1. Entrance ticket originally 55 yuan, now half-price at 27.5 yuan, covering historic buildings inside. Keep your ticket stub or bring your ID for checks; it's valid for three days of entry and exit.

2. Plenty of guesthouse choices in the town, suiting all budgets. If time allows, try two for different experiences. Most include pick-up service from the airport or city center.

3. Regarding guesthouse pick-ups: apart from branded hotels with own drivers, local guesthouses usually cooperate with car fleets—the driver isn't in-house. During transfers, drivers often ask if you need a chartered car for nearby spots. The market rate is 300 yuan a day. If you want to visit 2-3 places without self-driving, chartering is worthwhile. It's up to you, and drivers won't pressure you.

4. Nights in Heshun are incredibly quiet; nightlife is almost nonexistent. There are a few bars, but they may not open daily. Restaurants generally close by 8-9 pm; later, only a couple BBQ stalls remain. There's little street lighting, so it's best not to wander too far at night.

5. The town has stone-paved roads, so wear sneakers. If your luggage is bulky, don't book a guesthouse too deep inside, or it'll be a serious leg workout.

6. About hot springs: we visited Bolian Hot Spring Hotel next to the town. Since the entire Tengchong scenic area was developed by Bolian, their environment is the best. Hot springs here rarely have private pools; you wear swimsuits to soak in various large communal pools. The water has little scent. If you want sulfur-smelling springs, head to Rehai (Hot Sea) Scenic Area.

Beihai Wetland, a volcanic barrier lake ecosystem, features water plants densely interwoven, cycling through death and rebirth in the wet soil until they form floating meadows. This ten-thousand-year-old volcanic wetland has become a classic Tengchong postcard.

Beihai Wetland Scenic Area is an ecological reserve surrounded by mountains. The lake is calm as a mirror, water plants grow wild. The area isn't large, walkable in about two hours. It's rich in flora and fauna: wildflowers bloom in spring and summer, migratory birds winter here. Strolling the boardwalk out and back, or taking a boat to the end and walking back, are both good choices.

We bought tickets through our chartered driver, 80 yuan including boat ride and a grass-raft experience, cheaper than buying directly.

For long-time city dwellers, such lush landscapes are exactly what urbanites admire.

The whole wetland is a long strip, roughly 3 kilometers round trip. Boating does save energy. Along the way, you'll spot unnamed birds; the one below might be an egret, stretching its long neck in solitary elegance.

'Lush water plants' is the perfect descriptor. As the boat glides through the placid lake, drifting aquatic plants are clearly visible, and flocks of wild ducks paddle past—such a beautiful scene.

These two dazzling blue ones are purple swamphens, a relatively rare waterbird in China.

As the boat approaches the last dock, a few thatched huts beneath a verdant mountain evoke Swiss lakeside views, a tranquility I quite adored.

The grass-raft experience area lets you try floating on the water. A thick mat of meadow replaces a bamboo raft, holding three or four people. You steer with bamboo poles, gliding like a floating blanket across the lake.

Beihai Wetland Scenic Area Tips

1. Opening hours: 8:30-19:00

2. Seasonal highlights:

Spring – purple iris;

Summer – lightness and charm veiled in gauze;

Autumn – fragrant lotus, fish and shrimp frolicking, rafts drifting among them;

Winter – flocks of wild ducks, migratory birds fluttering and playing over the water;

3. Activities: boat ride, bamboo rafting, grass rafting, traditional fish trapping

4. Suggested duration: 2-3 hours

5. Ticket prices: entry 55 yuan; entry + boat ride 80 yuan; entry + bamboo raft 100 yuan; entry + grass raft 120 yuan

After Beihai Wetland, we headed to Rehai, about a half-hour drive. Typically charter drivers suggest doing both together.

Rehai is not a sea but a geothermal hot spring area. From the moment you step out, a strong sulfur smell hits you. Passing a row of small shops at the entrance, aunties chase you to buy eggs tied with straw into strings, 10 yuan a string. It feels like you'd miss out on a ritual if you don't buy a string to boil in the 'Big Boiling Pot.' So I embarked on an egg-carrying trek through the mountains.

A year-round warm stream runs through the entire valley, forming springs and pools of various sizes. Taking a shuttle from the ticket booth deeper into the valley, you see wisps of white smoke rising from the mountains—quite ethereal.

Approaching where the smoke billows, the air grows hotter, sweat beads on your forehead. The sulfur scent turns thick and salty. Bare rocks are coated in white calcification, and small vents in the ground release columns of steam. A bit of a scaredy-cat, I didn't linger near signs warning of explosion zones.

It's fascinating: this valley hosts bubbling hot springs and also a cold, gurgling stream and waterfall. How they coexist without affecting each other is nature's wonder.

Past the Immortal Pavilion, continue climbing through the hot spring area, pass several thermal pools, and ascend dozens of steps to reach Rehai's iconic spot, 'Big Boiling Pot.'

The Big Boiling Pot has three spout holes at its base, blasting water at 96°C, like a giant boiling cauldron. Even the ground is hot; sitting on the steps to rest is impossible—the heat drives you up.

Signs everywhere forbid boiling eggs in the springs. My egg string, having journeyed heroically, finally found its purpose at the egg-boiling zone next to the Big Boiling Pot. 'Boiling' here actually means steaming with high-temperature vapor. Toss the egg string into a cage for about 10 minutes, and they're fully cooked. My dream of soft hot-spring eggs was shattered.

Still, a commemoration shot for the egg string's odyssey is a must.

As one of China's three major geothermal zones, Rehai Scenic Area is where Tengchong's geothermal activity is most concentrated. This magical sight is worth visiting, but whether to soak in hot springs here depends on personal preference.

Rehai Scenic Area Tips

1. Ticket originally 60 yuan, half-price this year. If you're tired, get a combo ticket with shuttle bus. From the ticket office to the main scenic section is at least 1.5 km, and the shuttle saves that distance.

2. From Shizitou Waterfall to the Big Boiling Pot is also about 1.5 km, taking roughly half an hour of walking and climbing.

3. Rehai can be combined with a volcano tour or with Beihai Wetland; a single day is plenty. In the evening, I suggest having Chaowei Copper Pot Beef in town!

4. There's foot-soaking near the Big Boiling Pot. If you want to soak, buy a combo ticket from your guesthouse (scenic area + hot spring + shuttle). Bring a swimsuit (you can buy one at the springs, but the styles are... meh).

[Cun Dama's Pea Jelly]

Locals' breakfast often starts with a steaming bowl of pea jelly, 'cooked and eaten the same day,' gone by afternoon. Cun Dama's is no exception. We arrived in the afternoon, so we ordered a plate of thin-sliced pork with pea jelly as a snack. She urged us to come back next morning for the pea jelly, and we nodded eagerly.

The thin-sliced pork, cut paper-thin, is springy and refreshing. With chili powder seasoning, you slurp it in one go with the jelly-like pea jelly—the kind of flavor that makes you want one bite after another.

[Niuniu's Copper Pot Beef]

A beef hotpot recommended by the guesthouse hostess inside Heshun Ancient Town. A large copper pot holds a rich beef bone broth, loaded with beef offal, beef slices, and beef skin. I can't recall how many jin we ordered, only that the pot seemed to endlessly yield more beef. Full of flavor, the beef and offal are not melt-in-the-mouth like Chaoshan-style hotpot, but have a pleasant chewiness and deep taste.

[Linli Family Restaurant]

An unpretentious family-run spot: an open-plan living room and a two-story house. The owners set up tables in their own yard—a familiar dining spot for locals. The menu is handwritten on a small blackboard, and a cooler displays a dozen unidentified mushrooms. The down-to-earth lady boss bustles in the kitchen, calling her husband to take our order. Two of us ordered four dishes and left extremely satisfied.

I've forgotten the mushroom's name, but it was in-season: fresh, soft, bursting with fragrance after a vigorous stir-fry.

Stir-fried Tengchong small horn gourd, a vegetable unique to Tengchong, shaped like a pepper but not spicy, with a refreshing flavor.

In Tengchong restaurants, you'll see 'Da Jiu Jia' (Great Rescue) everywhere. It's actually stir-fried erkuai (rice cake slices). Legend says an emperor fleeing to a Tengchong household during the Ming Dynasty ate it and, moved, gave it that name.

I had to try it. With tomato, egg, pickled vegetables, and cured pork, it mixes sour, sweet, salty, and spicy notes—novel, but erkuai is very filling, almost a meal on its own.

[Chaowei Copper Pot Beef Restaurant]

After wolfing down copper pot beef in the ancient town and still craving more, a friend recommended an even more authentic local spot. Indeed, Chaowei's broth is richer, the beef even more generous. If you only try one, I unconditionally recommend Chaowei!

Each table gets a huge platter of dipping sauces.

The heavenly combo of chili oil and beef broth, bubbling on a charcoal stove—gulping down hearty meat in cool weather brings sheer happiness.

[BBQ Stall in Heshun Ancient Town]

Nighttime BBQ stalls that pop up in the town gather people from all corners. The draw isn't stunning cuisine but the camaraderie of friends gathering.

The hostess told us to go for marinated items, the essence of Yunnan-style BBQ. Must-orders: deeply marinated chicken wings, chicken feet, grilled fish, and 'baijiang' tofu.

The tofu's fresh flavor is enticing, the spice level a challenge even for Cantonese palates. Yet, we devoured it all with big gulps of cold beer, hissing and sighing.

[Hua Jie's Private Kitchen]

Requiring a one-day advance reservation, this famous spot in Tengchong's old town charges 158 yuan per person. Dishes are based on seasonal ingredients, with about a dozen courses—delicate and tasty, in a lovely setting. Hua Jie offers many homemade wines; you can sample them, and many buy bottles to take home.

Hua Jie is a native of Heshun; the restaurant is in her nearly 300-year-old ancestral home, a classic courtyard layout. Wine jars line the entrance on both sides. The stone floors and wooden furniture are steeped in age.

During the meal, private dishes arrive one after another, from starter fruits and snacks to lavish mains and desserts. The next course appears just as you finish the last—such attentiveness and care make it memorable.

Hidden in the tranquil mountains of Tengchong is a lush green tea garden. Due to poor transport, most visitors drive themselves, and the experience is wonderfully comfortable! The garden owner built a thatched hut and camping ground. Amid the serene tea sea, enjoying a meal and a cup of hot tea couldn't be more pleasant.

Driving along small village roads into the garden, the rolling hills are already a feast for the eyes. At the end, the thatched wooden hut gave me a fleeting sense of being in the Japanese countryside. Above the hut, tucked in the forest, is a glass-walled restaurant.

Here, the minimum spend for two is 200 yuan; for three or more, it's 68 yuan per person—more cost-effective with a group. No ordering needed: dishes come according to the season, about eight or nine courses. The Tuofeng beef pot was incredibly delicious, full of beefy flavor. Portions are huge, leaving us fully satisfied.

The beef pot's broth is rich, the beef stewed tender and flavorful, super yummy.

After the meal, enjoy free freshly brewed tea in the tasting area. If you want to experience roasted tea (including making a fire, grinding, and boiling), there's an extra fee. It depends on your time and interest; if you have enough time, it's worth experiencing the ancient tea-making method.

Outside the hut, vast tea terraces stretch to the distance—glowing green on sunny days, moody in the rain. Stroll into the paths amid the tea bushes for a slow feel and great photos.

Tengchong Dadi Tea Sea Camping Base

Transport: drive, charter car, or taxi.

Hours: 9:30-21:00 (you can dine anytime within these hours; calling ahead is recommended).

In Tengchong, we stayed at a boutique guesthouse we'd longed for: 'Anzhi Ruosu · Shan' (At Ease Like a Mountain). Nestled on an old street branching from Heshun Ancient Town towards the foothills, it exudes an aloof elegance—just like the ideal life we yearn for!

This guesthouse was designed by a Harvard architect. A bright white zigzag entrance is carved into the traditional tile roof, sloping upward to reveal a forest-fringed green vista. The whole structure resembles a white hill growing skyward, stunningly photogenic with a strong design aesthetic.

The rooms feel like living inside a landscape painting. Each has a poetic name and unique design, but all feature oversized floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking nearby fields and Heshun Ancient Town. Smart in-room appliances and thoughtful details abound.

A dedicated butler provides pick-up and drop-off for check-in/out. Afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the artfully designed common areas or on the rooftop with a viewpoint. At night, two bowls of peach gum and snow fungus soup were sent to us; breakfast could be delivered to the room too.

The lobby also doubles as a café—non-guests can enjoy afternoon tea and admire the masterful design. Pillars like tree trunks support the space at varying angles; sunlight spills through the gaps, creating a tenderly pure white tableau.

Morning and afternoon light and shadow mesmerize. The staggered design lets sunlight cast freely—irresistible light-shadow interplay! Watching sunset from the rooftop as the sun dips below the mountains is enchanting. Truly a place for zoning out and whiling away time.

Climbing the white staircase to the third floor and sitting atop the roof tiles to gaze at the fields and mountain town—at moments like these, time is at its most peaceful.

There are several photo spots in the guesthouse, effortless for blockbuster shots:

① The 'roof path' extending from the entrance (backlit in the morning, best in the afternoon)

② The outdoor white staircase leading to the third floor (very forest-like)

③ The third-floor common space (you can sit on the roof—climbing the tiles!)

④ In the morning, the corridors near the rooms, where dappled light and shadow are gorgeous.

[Guesthouse Name] Anzhi Ruosu · Shan Panoramic Hot Spring Hotel

[Address] No. 41, Shuidui Upper Second Society, Heshun Town

[Transport] About half an hour from the airport; the butler can pick up/drop off at the airport or city center. Walking to the ancient town center takes about 20 minutes.

On the way from Tengchong to Dali, we overnighted in Baoshan for a somewhat childish obsession: visiting a coffee estate. Childish because it wasn't the coffee production season. Using the 'since we're already here' excuse, I still wanted to see it, even though transport was inconvenient and we ended up paying a fortune for a taxi back to the city that night.

Baoshan is an ultra-niche city; the coffee industry forms a large chunk of its economy. An hour-plus from downtown, Xinzhai Village in Lujiangba is dubbed 'China's No. 1 Coffee Village' for its extensive plantations. It boasts numerous estates and experience centers, with mountainsides covered in coffee trees and processing stations hidden among them. For coffee lovers, tracing the origin is the most thrilling thing.

The unmissable gem is Xinzhai Coffee Estate, designed by a Beijing architect, Hua Li, using 760,000 bricks to create a space blending mountain, water, art, and culture. It's essentially a coffee museum and even made ArchDaily's 'China Architecture of the Year 2020' top ten. Of course, that's why we came.

We planned to visit other estates after Xinzhai, but lacking proper research, we realized too late.

A heads-up: Xinzhai Coffee Estate isn't in Xinzhai Village; it's in Bawan. Other scattered estates are mostly in Xinzhai Village. Bawan and Xinzhai Village sit on two different hills, a half-hour drive apart.

Had we enough time and a car, doing both in one day is feasible. Sadly, we arrived in the afternoon and could only finish Xinzhai Coffee Estate before descending and returning to the city, leaving a regret.

The estate's site was once an abandoned courtyard from years past, the former township government office. Under the architect's bold vision, it became a retro yet stylish coffee estate. It comprises three parts: a cinema from the 1980s, a two-story red-brick coffee hall, and a three-story main building for storage and processing.

On an afternoon with dappled light, wandering the estate: tall arched corridors, wide-open views, staggered design spaces—every corner yields great photos.

The estate also hides a small coffee museum showcasing hundreds of Lujiangba coffee-related artifacts, from varieties to processing tools. You can learn and even get hands-on, tracing how a coffee bean transforms into a cup of aromatic perfection, and revisit the decades-old folk coffee history of Lujiangba.

Admire the architecture, sip a coffee—despite the journey, it feels worthwhile.

A 250-year-old banyan tree is the 'treasure of the courtyard.'

Retro elongated windows adorn the grey-brick wall of the disused cinema.

From afternoon to evening, the light fades, lending the entire building an even deeper nostalgic air.

On the drive from the city to the estate, distant mountains roll endlessly.

A few tips for visiting Xinzhai Coffee Estate:

① Drive yourself! Public transport is far too inconvenient (don't ask how I know).

② The estate isn't huge; about an hour suffices for a full visit. There's not much else around amid the old village. To visit more estates, go early, finish Xinzhai, then drive to Xinzhai Village (roughly 30+ minutes away). Xinzhai Village has more estates with great views and good coffee. I'll recommend a few I originally intended to visit: Brian Coffee Experience Center, Qiteng Culture Coffee Experience Hall, Bidun Coffee Estate.

③ The mountain road is tricky with many bends; a seasoned driver is recommended.

④ If you have even more time, visit Xinzhai Village in the morning, Xinzhai Coffee Estate in the afternoon, and stay overnight at the estate's guesthouse for an enhanced experience.

My first visit to Dali was in my student days. Compared to bustling Lijiang Ancient Town, Dali Ancient Town felt like a breath of fresh air—wide stone streets, lazy afternoons, slow-paced life... I held onto that anticipation for Dali.

Returning seven or eight years later, it felt somewhat unfamiliar. Eateries and shops had multiplied, streets were clogged with vehicles and scooters, markets and art spaces popped up everywhere. Maybe due to the holidays, crowds jammed the town, especially at night with noisy crowds and brightly lit shop signs—it dampened my enthusiasm.

Dali Ancient Town ultimately surrendered to commercialization. Life inside now mirrors urban existence: milk tea shops and bar streets with waiting queues, small shops doing roaring business. Merchants make money, tourists have fun, but the leisurely, carefree, priceless days have dwindled.

Not that commercialization is all bad—after all, we're just short-term visitors, not long-term Dali residents. For locals, higher living standards and faster economic growth have benefits. The clash of old and new cultures might spark fresh ideas. For us passers-through, maybe we just need time to adapt.

If you yearn for that carefree slow life in Dali, that ideal state, avoid holidays and visit in the off-season. Stroll along Erhai Lake, wander the ancient town's weathered lanes, gaze at the deep starry sky of Dali—only then will the trip feel worthwhile.

Dali is still Dali, just in a different guise.

New Dali-ites' lifestyle is best seen in the various markets. Art zone at Bed Sheet Factory, Foreigner Street Market, Four Seasons Street Market, and countless others rotate weekly. The liveliest might be Foreigner Street Market, with its many mobile stalls lining both sides with knick-knacks. For a more artistic vibe, Four Seasons Street Market or Bed Sheet Factory suit better.

While zipping around the ancient town on a scooter, I came across a quirky building. Up close, it was the Yang Liping Grand Theater.

We didn't take the classic Erhai loop; just rode to the lake's edge for a look. Originally, I wanted to stay at a lakeside guesthouse in Shuanglang, but doubled holiday prices put me off. Holiday travel always compromises the experience, and in Yunnan's Dali, I felt this acutely.

Strip away the holiday cloak, and I genuinely hope Dali on ordinary days is still that dreamland. After all, we even saw a double rainbow!

In Dali Ancient Town, I recommend a tasty Dai-style hand-grabbed rice dish at [Gushi Hui Private Kitchen].

Hidden deep in an alley, the small eatery is often packed. The hand-grabbed rice here is a feast for all senses—big portions, authentic taste. The owner recommends suitable portions based on party size. Besides hand-grabbed rice, try their grilled chicken feet tendons—so deeply flavorful and chewy, full marks!

Address: No. 383 Qingshiqiao, Lower Section of Yuer Road, Dali (small doorway, not easy to find)

Hours: 11:30-14:00, 16:30-20:30

In Dali, we also visited a thousand-year-old village.

Fengyangyi Village holds the only surviving stretch of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road within Dali. From end to end, nearly a kilometer of stone path remains, polished smooth by horse hooves and footsteps over centuries. Occasionally, locals lead horses at the village entrance, calling out for a horseback ride, but walking is actually better.

Flanking the stone path are dilapidated houses, their walls faded and crumbling, red bricks exposed. It's very quiet, yet also filled with a sense of desolation and weathering, as if utterly forgotten.

Encountering a group of elderly women, each with a different posture, weaving straw hats under a worn eave—chatting, working silently, or resting with closed eyes—this was the most beautiful scene for me.

Fengyangyi's main road isn't long. Who knows when these crumbling stone houses might be repaired or rebuilt. I hope the stories and weathered history can be preserved for a long, long time.

Here, I can't help but mention the pitfall I encountered in Dali.

Anyone flipping through a Dali to-do list will almost always see: 'Eat a vegetarian meal at Jizhao Nunnery.'

With visions of a serene temple, we headed to this 'off-the-beaten-path' spot, aiming to arrive by noon for that fabled vegetarian lunch—not too early. The steep half-hour climb left us panting. At the nunnery gate at 12:30, the crowd stunned us. This so-called hidden gem had turned into a check-in assembly line.

From the entrance to the inner courtyard, people packed every corner, lending a massive canteen vibe. When we asked where to get food, we were told lunch was gone, only dinner remained—devastating. Staff said many arrive early to queue; some send one person to buy for groups, so it runs out quickly. Starving and helpless, we had no heart to admire the courtyard.

This wasn't my idea of a temple meal, nor did Jizhao Nunnery in my imagination require such a deliberate pilgrimage just for a plate of veggie food. We left.

Fortunately, on our hangry, irritable descent, we saw a sign for vegetarian meals at Mid-hill Gantong Temple. It was past 1 p.m. on a whim, we ducked in to ask—still available. Gantong Temple's back door led to a simple meal room with scattered diners at a few tables. Perhaps they too were Jizhao refugees.

Though dishes were nearly gone, there was still my favorite: stir-fried tofu, cabbage, potato slices. Cradling a bowl of hot rice, I was tearfully grateful. I devoured every grain. Looking up, I saw a calligraphy inside the room: 'Amitabha, marvelous.' Thank goodness for Gantong Temple; this meal perfectly redeemed Jizhao's bad mood.

Taking time to appreciate Gantong Temple revealed its own beauty—not meticulously arranged, but somewhat weathered, worn, yet brimming with life. Pear and persimmon trees hung heavy with fruit; dusty cobwebs draped from eaves; succulents cluttered the ground.

For those determined to visit Jizhao Nunnery, some advice:

1. Avoid holidays and peak tourist seasons; avoid the 1st and 15th of lunar months (free entry, larger crowds).

2. Head uphill early. Walking from Gantong cable car to Jizhao takes half an hour; best arrive by 11 a.m. to secure a hot meal.

3. If you miss Jizhao's meal, go to Gantong Temple. Their vegetarian fare will warm your stomach too.

Xizhou Town isn't exactly off-the-beaten-path anymore; plenty of tourists come during holidays.

To me, Xizhou feels more soulful than Dali. Perhaps it's the Bai-style courtyards hidden in the ancient town, the labyrinthine old walls and alleys that seem to have no end, or the cheerful paddy fields. Stepping into Xizhou Ancient Town, a stronger cultural aura envelops you.

As a vital station and midpoint on the Tea Horse Road, Xizhou was a hub for passing caravans to trade, rest, and resupply. Over 1,000 years of history have left flying eaves and screen walls, ancient homes, stone bridges—spirit-filled. Today, Xizhou Ancient Town still narrates these vivid stories through its streets and lanes.

The landmark Round Corner Tower, a super-hot Instagram spot, teems with people at this intersection during holidays. Only off-peak hours bring thinner crowds.

Sifang Street is Xizhou's 'Little Hong Kong.' Beneath the tall 'Honor Roll Arch,' the 'Four Great Families,' 'Eight Middle Families,' and 'Twelve Small Families' of Xizhou's merchant history whisper past glories. Yan Family Courtyard's entrance also opens onto the square. Now it's a food hub, surrounded by fragrant Xizhou baba, milky roasted milk fan, steaming claypot rice noodles... countless specialty eats.

A paddy field adjacent to the ancient town is now Xizhou's biggest draw. Next to it stands 'Xilinyuan,' a museum of Bai-style residences. Its orange walls set against the rice fields are a timeless combo, a popular photo op. Again, visiting off-peak yields a better experience.

Along the field's edge is a row of cafés. On a sunny morning or afternoon, sipping coffee facing the fields is a leisurely treat.

The rice turns golden around September-October.

Xizhou Ancient Town is gradually acquiring the 'internet-famous' label—maybe because of the paddy fields, or the increasing number of cafés, eateries, and craft shops. In retrospect, while walking the town, I once got lost in the rush to find photo spots, overlooking Xizhou's very soul as the essence of Dali: its millennia of history, its prosperous old dreams, its cultural and architectural depth... only after returning did I leaf through these inner stories, awed by the passage of time, feeling ashamed.

During our days in Dali, we stayed at a guesthouse in Sha Village, a bit away from Xizhou Ancient Town, but offering peace and quiet.

Our room had a large terrace facing a distant landscape painting of mountains and water. The poetic view amazed me every morning.

The guesthouse is called Qingsha Minju. Many room details were designed by the host. Highly recommended for those who love tranquility and quality.

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Recommend two Xizhou coffee shops:

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1. Pessoa Pastoral Café

Facing Xizhou's rice paddies, the entrance adorned with flowers and plants, Pessoa Café sits at the edge of Xizhou Ancient Town. It's a well-known coffee spot in Dali, boasting good brews and a great environment, especially sitting in the front chairs, gazing at the field scenery—perfect for emptying your mind.

'Pessoa' refers to a Portuguese writer; the name perhaps comes from a yearning for sunshine and life's harmony. The owner roasts all the beans. Fresh, light-to-medium roasts yield an aroma that lifts the spirits.

Freshly brewed milk tea with no additives, a hint of cinnamon after stirring, releases a unique fragrance—my kind of flavor.

The enamel mugs for pour-over coffee feature custom illustrations designed in collaboration with an artist, depicting the café's storefront. I loved it so much I bought one to take home.

2. Tian Café's simplicity is such that passersby might not realize it's a coffee shop.

Old tiles, a worn smooth wooden counter with simple coffee gear—a Kinu hand grinder, a Kalita copper kettle and dripper—form the bar. Handmade Japanese ceramic cups line the wall, hinting at the owner's passion for unique vessels.

The boss was roasting beans upstairs and came down later to brew coffee. Using a Japanese-style pouring method, he was so focused it seemed only the coffee and he existed in that moment. The clean, transparent pot of Typica, aptly named 'Qing Yin' (Clear Mist), captured the essence of Yunnan.

Yes, this is a specialty pour-over roastery, worth setting aside time for a pot of hand-drip.

On our last day, we returned via Kunming, not visiting many sights. Most memorable were two markets we explored, by day and by night—paradises for food lovers, now I regret not staying longer to savor them.

[Nanqiang Street] – 'The night on Nanqiang Street is a free-spirited bowl of earthly fireworks.'

Nanqiang Street is a must-visit for nightlife in Kunming, its most vibrant block. My bluntest description: 'a market so crowded yet impossible to dislike.'

Here gathers Kunming specialties, Yunnan-wide snacks, national and even international street foods. Amid the bustling food street, orders are shouted, food sizzles, glasses clink... Weaving slowly through the throng, craning our necks, dazzled by diverse menus, the worldly bustle is so bold that anyone who arrives gets swept into the joyous chaos.

Too busy eating and packing food to wield my camera—apologies for not many food photos. I hope you'll feel my genuine enthusiasm for the cuisine through my words~~

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[Daguan Zhuanxin Farmers' Market] – 'Simple yet radiant, plain yet comforting: the soul of old Kunming.'

Kunming's Zhuanxin Farmers' Market: local friends go themselves or take out-of-town friends. Fifty yuan in your pocket isn't enough; a hundred might not be either—there's just too much deliciousness! It's not just a vegetable and meat market—it's incredibly comprehensive, with things you've never seen, flavors that awaken your palate. In short, Zhuanxin Market has a mysteriously beautiful magic.

Even Chen Xiaoqing, director of 'A Bite of China,' raved about it and recommended it on his show. Zhuanxin Market is a place to devour Yunnan's cuisine in one go, no matter how tight your schedule. To call yourself a true foodie, you must hit Zhuanxin Market in Kunming first.

Fruits, veggies, cooked foods, meats, seafood, mushrooms, flowers, spices... neatly arranged, a feast for the eyes.

You can eat your fill while shopping—I'm so envious of Kunmingers. If it were like this, I'd willingly come grocery shopping every day!

The sheer variety of vegetables, many unnameable, is startlingly therapeutic.

Lala Snacks' douhua mixian (bean curd rice noodles) is divine. Silky, tender bean curd slides over the palate with spicy noodles—utterly, utterly delicious! A dense crowd always surrounds the shop, all people ordering or waiting for takeout.

Zhuanxin Market's ceaseless calls of vendors, endless sights of food, let you feel the most down-to-earth temperature of a city. Even when jostling, barely moving, you immerse yourself and feel not the slightest irritation.

A street market (gai zi) brimming with old Kunming's tender worldly flavors. As seasons shift and produce changes, the stories here never pause. This real, ordinary look is the truest taste of life.

Next fine season, let's journey again.

Having seen mountains, rivers, lakes, and seas, traversed spring, summer, autumn, and winter,

I discovered that every moment of every day holds a thousand kinds of life.

Millions of people move forward on their own life tracks.

What reason do we have, then, not to give ourselves a little push?

—To the ordinary and real us.

Travelogue Contents

1. Foreword

2. Heshun, an Ancient Town Filled with Scholarly Scents

3. The Freshness of Beihai Wetland

4. Tengchong Rehai, Permeated with Sulfur

5. Foods Bursting with Human Warmth