Illustrating Yunnan | A Boundless Journey in the Inner World

"Facing the vast unknown world outside the window, while imagining when I can start an adventure, drawing alone in the room may be the prologue to an endless journey in my inner world." — Yoshitomo Nara

I love finding inspiration on the road and creating new paintings. The process of painting feels like an endless extension of the journey, letting thoughts and emotions drift even farther. Before the Spring Festival, my friends and I decided to leave the north and head to the south of Yunnan in search of new inspiration.

Photographing and drawing along the way, south of Yunnan

Speaking of "south of Yunnan," I consider Kunming as the boundary, driving south from there.

Route: Kunming - Chengjiang (Fuxian Lake, Modou Mountain) - Jianshui (Ant Workshop) - Yuanyang (Rice Terraces) - Pu'er (Tea Mountain). For those with ample time, you can continue to Xishuangbanna, which has a larger airport than Pu'er. We flew back from Pu'er. On the first day in Yunnan, locals told us that this season is just perfect for driving this southern route — the temperature is pleasant, and the seagulls are still around.

▴ By Dianchi Lake in Kunming, experiencing the "storm" of seagulls from Siberia, watching their white silhouettes streak across the blue sky. We are all "seasonal selective creatures" from cold places.

▴ Driving around Fuxian Lake, feeling the vacation breeze under the panoramic sunroof. Gazing at the turquoise lake, enjoying the warm winter sun, we were so relaxed that we lost ourselves.

▴ Starry Town stands by the cliff, overlooking the lake like a sea, with a gentle breeze accompanying the view of mountains and water.

▴ In Jianshui's "Ant Workshop," stepping into the world of art. The pink architectural style sparked my girlish heart. As an art student, entering the deconstructed world of "points, lines, and planes" gave me a burst of creative inspiration.

▴ At Yuanyang Rice Terraces during the misty sunrise, the terraces appeared and disappeared, giving a feeling of "walking on clouds."

At Yuanyang Rice Terraces, I encountered "God's palette." But the scenery along the way was already beautiful enough. Due to the changing weather, we missed the perfect moments of sunrise and sunset. A small regret taught me the simplest truth: often, the most beautiful moment we can have is the present.

▴ On the tea mountain in Pu'er, I felt the thrill of stepping outside into a scenic view. The cool air of the tea garden washed away the fatigue of the journey. A tea mountain sunrise also marked the end of our trip.

Yet beyond the scenery, recalling this trip, I can't help but feel lucky for surviving the many dangers along the way. On the first day, I left my backpack containing all my belongings on the crowded Haigeng Dam. On the second day, our car got stuck in the sand. On the third day, we almost got stranded in the mountains at night. As a clumsy travel companion, I had to be grateful that everything turned out fine. How I managed to make my friends anxious every day — I'll tell that later.

All illustrations, text, and images are original. Camera gear: Sony A7R3, DJI Mavic 2 Pro. Drawing equipment: computer tablet, iPad Pro. Huan'erhuan-Queenio, an illustrator and writer who loves traveling and creating. Drawing and painting on the road. Published book: "Borrow a Year, Go to New Zealand."

Kunming - A White Greeting from Siberia

Our first stop: Dianchi Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan. It's famous for the black-headed gulls that migrate from faraway Siberia every winter.

On the Haigeng Dam, watching thousands of gulls fly across the sky, leaving white trails against the blue, this has become a unique sight of the "Spring City." The gulls seem accustomed to being fed by tourists. If you raise your hand, there's never a shortage of freeloaders.

Searching relevant literature, the earliest record was in 1985. On November 12 of that year, tens of thousands of gulls suddenly appeared over Dianchi Lake. Since then, the number of black-headed gulls arriving each November has increased year by year, spending the winter in Kunming's warm climate. Until mid-March, when spring arrives, tens of thousands of gulls depart from Dianchi Lake, passing through Yinchuan, Ningxia, and other places, before returning to Lake Baikal.

From the deepest freshwater lake in the world, Lake Baikal in Siberia, to Kunming, the Spring City of China — a journey of over 3,000 kilometers and 30 days of flight. They are truly guests from afar.

While feeding the gulls, I was so absorbed that I left my bucket bag containing all my belongings on a bench at Haigeng Dam — the center of people and birds. Half an hour later, I suddenly remembered I had a bag...

Inside were our ID cards, wallets, driver's licenses, etc. My friend and I sped back to Haigeng Dam, only to find a security guard using his motorcycle to block my bag, sitting alone on a nearby bench waiting for the owner. Seeing me sweating profusely, his first words were, "Check if anything is missing." Overwhelmed with gratitude, I wanted to give him a banner. He's definitely the loveliest person! Without him, this photo would have been the last memory of my backpack.

Heading south from Haigeng Dam, about 20 minutes by car, you'll pass Wangguan Wetland Park beside Dianchi Lake. The park is small but perfect for watching sunset and evening glow — it's incredibly beautiful!!!

There are many wetlands along the Dianchi Lake shore in Kunming. Wangguan Wetland is along the Huandu East Road. Because it's relatively far from Kunming city center, there aren't many visitors. At sunset, it feels like a fairy tale. After entering the park, there's a fresh pastoral road, and after walking seven or eight minutes, the Dianchi Lake wetland comes into view. Overlooking the lake like a sea — for photography enthusiasts, whether you like Japanese style, fairy tale, or old-school style, it's easy to get great shots.

Practical tips:

👉 Photography: The park is youth-oriented, with many photo spots: beaches, reeds, lavender, flower fields. I went in early spring, so the flowers hadn't fully bloomed.

👉 Address: Located on the north section of the east bank of Dianchi Lake, Kunming. Enter "Wangguan Wetland Park" on the map to navigate.

👉 Transportation: It's recommended to take a taxi or drive; the park has a parking lot. You can also take bus K31 from Haigeng Dam. Note that after sunset, it's a bit inconvenient to get a ride, so if you take a taxi, don't stay too late.

👉 Tickets: Wangguan Wetland is an open park, free of charge.

Chengjiang - Fresh Blue Sky and Clear Water

One hour's drive from Kunming, we arrived at Fuxian Lake in Chengjiang. Its water is much clearer than Dianchi Lake, crystal clear, known by the ancients as "ten thousand hectares of glass." As early as the late Ming Dynasty, the traveler Xu Xiake wrote in his "Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake": "The mountains in Yunnan are mostly soil, so water often gets blocked and forms lakes, but the water is mostly muddy; only Fuxian Lake is the clearest."

A young man we met along the way was very warm-hearted. He told us that a full loop around the lake is about 100 kilometers. He once lived here for two years with his girlfriend and spent four days hiking around the lake. Now his ex-girlfriend has married someone else, and he decided to return to Guangdong.

The weather here is quite changeable in winter. The morning was cloudy and rainy, but by afternoon, the sun was shining brightly. Driving around the lake is truly a good choice — the road is very close to the water, and along the way, there are many wetland scenic spots. You can stop whenever you see nice scenery.

Speaking of which, I must warn you: some beaches allow you to drive directly to the lakeside, but DON'T do that! Don't drive onto the sand! Don't ask me why. Someone who spent half an hour digging sand to free a stuck car has no right to speak. I only blame myself for not listening to my friend's advice.

We stayed one night at a hotel near Fuxian Lake, and the next day we decided to go to Starry Town and Modou Mountain. Fuxian Lake Starry Town is located on the southern shore of Fuxian Lake; it's actually a showroom for a real estate center. Regular tourists are not allowed in unless they are there to view properties or for wedding photos. We stayed at Longhu Suqing Hotel, and guests can also enter, with a dedicated shuttle bus that takes five minutes from the hotel.

Photography spots are everywhere here, accompanied by gentle poetry along the way. "Birds in the sky, fish in the lake, thank you for your company" is my favorite line.

The cliff-top park of Starry Town is incredibly beautiful — it feels like being in New Zealand. Blue sky, clear lake, stunning views. Standing by the cliff, overlooking the lake like a sea, with a gentle breeze and mountain views. According to hotel staff, a stargazing event for 7,000 people was once held here, with visible shooting stars — amazingly beautiful.

Starry Town is best visited around 9-10 AM, when the sun has just come out. Basking on the grass is very comfortable. After recharging with sunlight, we drove to Modou Mountain, about an hour away from Starry Town.

There are two routes to Modou Mountain: one takes a detour via highway, the other is a closer country road. The hotel staff recommended the country road for better scenery. However, the winding mountain road is more difficult to navigate — the lanes are very narrow, sometimes only able to accommodate one car, requiring slow driving or yielding when passing.

When we reached the summit, we caught a sunset. Modou Mountain is a relatively niche area, so there were few tourists. Nearby is the Modou Mountain Wind Farm, and huge wind turbines are visible halfway up the mountain. It's important to note: self-driving friends must remember to check the fuel gauge before starting, because the nearest gas station is dozens of kilometers downhill. We only discovered after driving up that our car was almost out of fuel, and we had to ask around the mountain for gas — quite awkward. Don't ask if we succeeded; who carries a fuel siphon when going out?

Although the pressure of running out of fuel was high, we still put aside anxiety and enjoyed the sunset — live in the moment, haha.

Driving up Modou Mountain, quietly waiting for a long-lost sunset. I once heard that the light of sunrise and sunset is the truest color that human eyes can capture.

After sunset, it gets dark quickly. We took a gamble driving downhill. Fortunately, it was a downhill mountain road and the car was fuel-efficient. We escaped danger again — after the fuel light came on, we drove about 20 more kilometers, probably using the last drop of fuel before reaching the gas station. Nearly getting stranded in the mountains because of forgetting to refuel — that lesson is more than enough.

Practical tips:

👉 Fuxian Lake self-driving route: A friend once hiked around the lake for four days. Driving a full loop is about 100 kilometers, but the eastern side offers better scenery than the western side.

👉 Fuxian Lake Starry Town: Located on the southern shore of Fuxian Lake, actually a showroom for a real estate center. Regular tourists are not allowed in unless viewing properties or for wedding photos. We stayed at Longhu Suqing Hotel; guests can also enter with a shuttle bus from the hotel (5 minutes).

👉 Modou Mountain: There are two routes from Starry Town to Modou Mountain: one via highway (detour), the other a closer country road. Locals recommended the country road for better scenery. But the winding mountain road is difficult, with narrow lanes.

Jianshui - Pink, Cyan, and Ochre

"Ant Workshop" is located in Xizhuang Town, Jianshui County, Honghe Prefecture, Yunnan Province. It is a complex built with hollow bricks, and the ant nest design concept is very interesting. Walking inside gives a sense of time travel, very appealing. Every photo taken is full of bold avant-garde art.

The architecture was designed by the famous Yunnan artist Luo Xu. After "Indigenous Nest" in Kunming and "Kaleidoscope" in Maitreya's Dongfengyun, he designed this "Ant Workshop" in Jianshui. It feels like stepping into an art world built with points, lines, and planes, reminiscent of the famous European architect Gaudí, whose works are full of imagination.

All buildings in "Ant Workshop" follow the ceramic culture thread, with bold and free style. It integrates ceramic-themed guesthouses, restaurants, galleries, and ceramic art experience spaces. Besides Luo Xu's ceramic works, there are dedicated exhibition halls displaying oil paintings and sculptures by artists.

Aerial views are also beautiful.

I also really like the yellow-themed building. At the end of a tunnel is the Kiln Prison Cafe. As seen in the photo, the entire coffee bar is inside a cage, with an interesting yet artistic atmosphere.

The restaurant here has few people during the off-season. Locals recommended the famous Jianshui grass sprout crossing-the-bridge rice noodles. At this time, grass sprouts are called "ivory vegetables." Sometimes they float in the soup of crossing-the-bridge rice noodles, sometimes stir-fried with meat slices, with a crispy texture and fresh flavor.

★★★★ Recommended activities:

👉 Pink, yellow, and white themed buildings. The yellow building is also my favorite; at the end of the tunnel is the Kiln Prison Cafe.

👉 Luo Xu's art exhibition hall

👉 Ceramic works sales center for souvenirs

👉 Ceramic handcraft experience to make your own work

👉 Restaurant and guesthouse available

🔍 Address: Wangcheng Slope, Lin'an Town, Jianshui County, Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province (search "Jianshui Ant Workshop" on map)

🔍 Tickets: Off-season 10 yuan/person. There are guesthouses in the scenic area; guests stay for free.

Yuanyang - Colorful Under the Clouds

Yuanyang Rice Terraces are located in the southern Ailao Mountains of Yuanyang County, Yunnan Province. They are the masterpiece left by the Hani people over generations. "A mountain has four seasons, ten miles different skies." The locals adapted to the varied geography and climate, with terraces changing according to the mountain terrain. On gentle slopes with large land, they opened large fields; on steep slopes with small land, they opened small fields. The largest ones cover several mu, while the smallest are only the size of a dustpan. Often, a single slope has thousands or even tens of thousands of mu. This results in irregular terrace lines, large and small, like God's palette.

Every year from November to April of the next year is the water-filling period and peak tourist season for Yuanyang Rice Terraces. The flooded terraces resemble countless mirrors shattered on the earth, reflecting the sky, truthfully recording every sunrise and moon fall, every cloud roll and relax.

It's a bit regretful that on the day at Yuanyang, both sunrise and sunset were clouded over, with thick clouds lingering. So I didn't see the colorful hues of the terraces at dusk. The photos were taken along the road during the day, showing the turquoise water surface and red rice fields complementing each other.

We stayed at a guesthouse called "Hua Wow Wo Inn," run by a couple from Kunming with three cats. It's close to the Duoyishu observation deck, where you can see the same terraces. The guesthouse's boundless terrace is great for photos, especially on misty mornings, giving a feeling of overlooking the clouds.

Waiting for sunrise and playing with cats in the early morning here is an excellent experience.

When leaving, following the owner's advice, we visited a local market. According to local ethnic minority traditions, they use the twelve zodiac animals to record days. It was interesting to see the animals drawn on the owner's blackboard to calculate days.

Sheng Village Market is only held on Thursdays, on a street within the village. It mainly sells fabrics, food, and daily necessities.

The grilled glutinous rice cakes are very fragrant, chewy and sticky, and cost 2 yuan for a large piece.

Note: It's not easy to park and drive inside the market. I suggest parking at the village entrance and walking in.

Pu'er - A Morning on the Green Tea Mountain

After finishing Yuanyang, we drove to Pu'er — the longest drive of this trip: 450 kilometers, about 6.5 hours. We set off after breakfast. Our last stay in Pu'er was at a hotel on the tea mountain: Pu'er Yixiangshan Camp and Half-Mountain Hotel. A major selling point is that it has thousands of acres of tea mountains, above the clouds. From the room, lying in bed, you can see the sunrise and sea of clouds outside the balcony. The room itself is a photo spot — a great blessing for sunrise photography enthusiasts.

The hotel has two types of rooms: wooden cabins and tents. During the off-season, the per-person cost isn't too high. Although it's about 20-30 minutes from the city center, it's very suitable if you like relaxing in nature.

We stayed in a tent room, slightly cheaper than the wooden cabin. The view of the sunrise was still the same, and we could light sparklers on the large balcony.

Because of limited time, we couldn't stay longer in Pu'er. We spent the final moments of the trip relaxing at the hotel, taking photos. Tea lovers can visit the hotel's tea room for an experience.

Our stay in Pu'er was too short — probably the biggest regret of this trip. The Wengding Village old stockade, which we originally planned to visit, suffered a severe fire not long after we returned. That last primitive village in China is gone forever. Some things you always think can wait, but then you miss them forever. Three months have passed since the trip ended. I wrote this travelogue to record memories, hoping it can help those who want to explore the lesser-known routes in Yunnan. Looking forward to seeing you again.